(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well


By Hellfire

6 years ago



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There are 2466 posts in this topic. You are on page 11 of 50.
#501 3 years ago

You know, while l love the look of the original "bad cowboy" cabinet, the later style black aprons are really beginning to grow on me. The darker color makes the playfield artwork stand out more.

#502 3 years ago

whoops, dupe post

#503 3 years ago

To each their own, I guess. It's all good, but I think that the original is unbeatable

#504 3 years ago

I agree, I really like the "bad cowboy" version....fits in so well with the other classic early SS Ballys

#505 3 years ago

I may have confused folks from my prior post. What I meant was I bought 2 EBD pf's off ebay, that I plan to perfect, drill dimple clear, ect.... but they are available as is for now until I get to them. Or they can be bought, and I will tweek it for you.
I had a couple emails where folks thought I listed them on ebay, sorry.
Also that last Frankenstine game looks awesome. (Frankenstine game=A nice restored game made from the parts of several donars).
cheers, kruzman

#506 3 years ago

"Frankenstein" plays VERY fast with a TZ Powerballâ„¢.
Mini "cue ball" per say.

Putting the game back up on a 2X4 with full height 3 inch leg levelers makes the game virtually unplayable.
Pushing close to 10 degree incline.
(Tilt switch has to be adjusted severely).
10-15 second ball times.
I used to to do this to tweak off people who said they were good at pinball.
They get humbled quick.

Cabinet repaint continues.
This photo was taken about 3-4 weeks ago.
Back to stock colors and now "redux" full color was started.
Working on the lower cabinet french curves after the new side rails, rear glass channel and cabinet fixes, and then back to the top again to finish the two color skin tones.
Then back again to the lower cabinet to work out the dark yellows again (the flash washes the colors out).
Then back to the blacks for pinstriping and clear coating.
A whole lot of hours here and not even close to clear coating.
Still need to do some small clean ups on the playfield as well.

25d4b374fd699e8fbde2757e440eece38beecc0f_(resized).jpg

1 week later
#507 3 years ago

I'd like to redo the apron on my EBD Classic version. Are there decals to be had out there anywhere?

#508 3 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

I'd like to redo the apron on my EBD Classic version. Are there decals to be had out there anywhere?

No such animal for the black "Bally-Midway" version has ever been made to my knowledge.
Too low in production numbers to make it worthwhile.
Only the original decals and actual aprons themselves.
Possible to replace with a used EBDLE black apron, or have someone make a scan and recreate.
Recreation would be fairly direct, but would be relatively inexpensive with vinyl with backing adhesive, similar to when someone needed to recreate an "unobtainium" backglass.

#509 3 years ago

They can be reproduced. Here's a set I did for my Space Invaders. Very inexpensive.
IMG_6878_(resized).JPG

#510 3 years ago

I have the same version EBD. Black apron with Bally-Midway on it. Gold over red. I'm working on it...

#511 3 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

I have the same version EBD. Black apron with Bally-Midway on it. Gold over red. I'm working on it...

With the new batch of CPR Playfields coming out, if you made these available for EBD Classic I believe you would be able to sell more than a few of them. I would be in for two sets.

#512 3 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

I have the same version EBD. Black apron with Bally-Midway on it. Gold over red. I'm working on it...

Always good to see reproduction parts remade for purpose, even if in small numbers.

#513 3 years ago

It's kinda funny....the 1981 version has the mean cowboy backbox while the overall color scheme of the Classic version has more of a Johnny cash bad boy feel to it, yet has a kind, married cowboy on it!

#514 3 years ago

Looking for a little help. Anyone with a EBD LE can you please send a picture of your aux lamp board on the connector I've attached here. I believe it goes to the 2 ball on the playfield. But would like to verify. Also anyone know where I can find the replacement connector so I can repin the connectors. Thanks so much

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#515 3 years ago

I'm in the club finally, my best find yet.

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#516 3 years ago
Quoted from lspin:

Looking for a little help. Anyone with a EBD LE can you please send a picture of your aux lamp board on the connector I've attached here. I believe it goes to the 2 ball on the playfield. But would like to verify. Also anyone know where I can find the replacement connector so I can repin the connectors. Thanks so much

image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

You have the correct wires going to that pin (pin #13). Two wires (white with black stripe).

What is missing is a jumper wire from that pin to the burnt one on the end (pin #15).

You can get connectors from several places. One I use a lot is Big Daddy http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/

Here's a picture of an EBD auxiliary lamp driver board I replaced the connectors on:

IMG_8404_(resized).JPG

#517 3 years ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

You have the correct wires going to that pin (pin #13). Two wires (white with black stripe).
What is missing is a jumper wire from that pin to the burnt one on the end (pin #15).
You can get connectors from several places. One I use a lot is Big Daddy http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/
Here's a picture of an EBD auxiliary lamp driver board I replaced the connectors on:

Question. Why did you put pins in the empty slots? I assume for added tension and I could see that with a smaller connector with no locking tab, but for a larger connector with trifurcon pins it's not a problem even with no locking tab. I'd look at that and think a wire pulled out of it's crimp. Just curious...

#518 3 years ago

EBD "Classic" cabinet repaint continues.
This gives a better idea of what the final product will look like in time with shading.
6 color lower cabinet, 11 color backbox.
You can see on the backbox where no work has been started.
I flip back and forth on both sides to keep everything identical.

EBD_Cabinet_Transform_(resized).jpg

#519 3 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Question. Why did you put pins in the empty slots? I assume for added tension and I could see that with a smaller connector with no locking tab, but for a larger connector with trifurcon pins it's not a problem even with no locking tab. I'd look at that and think a wire pulled out of it's crimp. Just curious...

On this application I decided to put them in there exactly why you suspected. For greater retention.

The original Bally connectors have inserts in every pin location whether they are being used or not. When I installed these connectors the retention was less than the originals had, even with the trifurcon inserts, so I added inserts to the unused positions too.

This is a 1st gen EBD and the auxiliary lamp driver board is mounted on the hinged backbox lamp board. I felt it was better to add the extra inserts. Now they are nice and tight like the originals were.

You can easily see which ones are not used. They are not crimped. I normally don't add them but in this case decided it wouldn't hurt.

#520 3 years ago
Quoted from tdiddy:

I'm in the club finally, my best find yet.

20160320_215457_(resized).jpg

That's a nice-looking 1981 Eight Ball Deluxe machine .

#521 3 years ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

That's a nice-looking 1981 Eight Ball Deluxe machine .

Fully mylared

#522 3 years ago

Still some cleaning to do

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#523 3 years ago
Quoted from tdiddy:

Fully mylared

You'll find quite a few have the full Mylar installed. It slows the ball play down some but reminds me of how most of them I used to play back in the day were. I think the majority of operators used them although I've had quite a few without the full Mylar too.

I just sold a real nice one with a day one full Mylar a couple months ago to a Pinside member.

#524 3 years ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

You'll find quite a few have the full Mylar installed. It slows the ball play down some but reminds me of how most of them I used to play back in the day were. I think the majority of operators used them although I've had quite a few without the full Mylar too.
I just sold a real nice one with a day one full Mylar a couple months ago to a Pinside member.

I plan on doing the touch up and clear coating it. Should play really fast then

#525 3 years ago
Quoted from tdiddy:

I plan on doing the touch up and clear coating it. Should play really fast then

I've done that before too. You can remove the Mylar and it will still be pretty-nice underneath.

#526 3 years ago

I don't recommend removing D1M on games that are over 30+ years old, and in some case less than 20 years.
However, it depends on the experience of the restorer, the title of the game, and the type of mylar coating used to cover the PF.
Not all removal methods work on different types of mylar coatings, but the majority of time bad results are purely due to lack of patience.
The results can be absolutely disastrous, as the inserts and surrounding paint layers can be "heat welded" to the the mylar due to feature lighting and age.

Dependent on polishing skills you can bring D1M nearly up to CC standards, but it takes a ton of work and significant amount of hours.
Several hundred hours of polishing can make it go truly "clear" again.

I actually have seen someone try to CC over a D1M PF, and that was even worse concept.
When the glue on the mylar lifts the CC is destroyed and then the PF is very hard to repair.

In the case of the above playfield, I would not touch it.
I already see signs of bubbling on inserts.

#527 3 years ago

Here was one I removed from a EBD "Classic":

MVC-015S_(resized).JPG

I sent it to Rick Stefonek and had it touched-up, all the inserts re-leveled and after 6 layers of automotive clearcoat it was a showpiece. It cost me $400 and was definitely worth it.

I later sold the game for $4,500 on eBay (and that was ten years ago).

#528 3 years ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

I sent it to Rick Stefonek

Does he still take work? Contact info?

#529 3 years ago

Where do I find the LE version flourescent light for the backglass?

#530 3 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Where do I find the LE version flourescent light for the backglass?

Ditch it and just do LED strips. Rock pinball made me a custom setup. Really cheap and easy to set up.

image_(resized).jpeg

#531 3 years ago

Can anyone recommend the best place to buy replacement blue star posts and the nylon nut covers for above the plastics on an EBD Classic?

#532 3 years ago

Pinball Life

#533 3 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Can anyone recommend the best place to buy replacement blue star posts and the nylon nut covers for above the plastics on an EBD Classic?

The factory original posts are "finned" (blue or red).

http://www.pbresource.com/plastic/bly-c952-1.jpg

Higher in cost, harder to find.

Modern "star" posts are common in quantity and color at all major primary suppliers (PL, PBR, MS, BAA, etc)
Depends on what you want to do.

#534 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Ditch it and just do LED strips. Rock pinball made me a custom setup. Really cheap and easy to set up.

Can I see a pic with backglass off? I assume warm white?

#535 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Ditch it and just do LED strips. Rock pinball made me a custom setup. Really cheap and easy to set up.
image_(resized).jpeg

Where are you hooking up the LED strips to get power?

#536 3 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

Where are you hooking up the LED strips to get power?

If you only run two strips you can aligator clip it to TP3 or TP2 on the MPU.

Since I used three, it is plugged into the aux outlet inside the cabinet.

#537 3 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Can I see a pic with backglass off? I assume warm white?

Yes warm white. I first tried two cool white strips and it looks like this

image_(resized).jpeg

I just didn't like it cool white and with two strips you can see a dark spot through the middle of the glass. That bothered me too.

So went to warm white and got three strips.

image_(resized).jpeg

Now, with using the aux plug I was only able to turn it off if the game was unplugged or on a controlled switch, so I put a wireless outlet plug on the aux outlet in the game and turn it on and off by remote.

#538 3 years ago

I actually thought about designing/machining a new lamp board for the backbox, using the staple-type #44 sockets. I just don't think there would be much demand for it to justify all the upfront work.

The LED strips is a much easier way to light the backglass. I agree...3 strips look much better than 2. Warm white is the better choice as well. I use warm whites to bring out the reds, oranges, yellows. I like the cool whites to bring out the blues and greens.

#539 3 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

I actually thought about designing/machining a new lamp board for the backbox, using the staple-type #44 sockets. I just don't think there would be much demand for it to justify all the upfront work.
The LED strips is a much easier way to light the backglass. I agree...3 strips look much better than 2. Warm white is the better choice as well. I use warm whites to bring out the reds, oranges, yellows. I like the cool whites to bring out the blues and greens.

Yeah I agree. It's hard to get the best of both worlds.

#540 3 years ago

Anything is better than the fluorescent light.

#541 3 years ago

"First round" EBD cabinet restoration completion before final color edging, fine detail pinstriping, side black painting touchup, and clear coat.

Getting closer.

IMG_20160329_015803_(resized).jpg

#542 3 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

"First round" EBD cabinet restoration completion before final color edging, fine detail pinstriping, side black painting touchup, and clear coat.
Getting closer.
IMG_20160329_015803_(resized).jpg

Looks fantastic! Did you just paint over the decal, or did you strip everything down to wood and start there? I have an EBD Classic that could use some touch up, and this has me inspired to take to a higher level.

#543 3 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Can anyone recommend the best place to buy replacement blue star posts and the nylon nut covers for above the plastics on an EBD Classic?

Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

The factory original posts are "finned" (blue or red).

Quoted from Gatecrasher:

That particular version used the blue star plastic posts while the two earlier editions of EBD used the traditional Bally blue "ringed" posts.

#544 3 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Looks fantastic! Did you just paint over the decal, or did you strip everything down to wood and start there? I have an EBD Classic that could use some touch up, and this has me inspired to take to a higher level.

This is stencil and hand painting.
Stencils for things like French curves and edging.

No strip down, just clean up.
The challenge was finding the right colors for contrast and fading while still keeping with the game factory "roots".

#545 3 years ago

.

Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

The factory original posts are "finned" (blue or red).
http://www.pbresource.com/plastic/bly-c952-1.jpg
Higher in cost, harder to find.
Modern "star" posts are common in quantity and color at all major primary suppliers (PL, PBR, MS, BAA, etc)
Depends on what you want to do.

From every example I've seen over the years, the 1984-85 Midway "Classic" edition used the translucent blue star posts with nylon acorn nuts while the earlier versions used the traditional Bally ringed posts with the rubber post caps.

I won't say that's absolute but it's the way it's been from my experience.

Marco Specialties as well as most other suppliers should have the blue star posts.

#546 3 years ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

.

From every example I've seen over the years, the 1984-85 Midway "Classic" edition used the translucent blue star posts with nylon acorn nuts while the earlier versions used the traditional Bally ringed posts with the rubber post caps.
I won't say that's absolute but it's the way it's been from my experience.
Marco Specialties as well as most other suppliers should have the blue star posts.

I dont recall seeing a classic with ringed posts either. I thought the poster had an LE and needed ring posts, but does look Blitz has a '84. I like chome acorn nuts in games too instead of nylon.
Personal preferences, although I generally go stock with a few exceptions.

#547 3 years ago

My 84 does have the star posts. They are just crumbling and need replaced!

Just had all the boards gone through and waiting to be reinstalled. Playfield is top aide stripped and waiting for reassembly. Gotta get this moved up the priority list over work and family! Haha!

#548 3 years ago

I check the CPR site every 6 months or so just to see if they will serve the clamoring masses with another EBD pf run. Am I reading this right? Are they cutting new boards?? And if they are, did I miss out (again)??!! Possible aaaaarrrrrrggggghhhhh.....

#549 3 years ago
Quoted from DocGar:

I check the CPR site every 6 months or so just to see if they will serve the clamoring masses with another EBD pf run. Am I reading this right? Are they cutting new boards?? And if they are, did I miss out (again)??!! Possible aaaaarrrrrrggggghhhhh.....

Yes and yes. I'm sure people will back out. Maybe you can get on a waitlist?

#550 3 years ago
Quoted from DocGar:

I check the CPR site every 6 months or so just to see if they will serve the clamoring masses with another EBD pf run. Am I reading this right? Are they cutting new boards?? And if they are, did I miss out (again)??!! Possible aaaaarrrrrrggggghhhhh.....

It closed like 6 hours after I got on it. Phew! Sorry, dude!

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