Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well

(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well


By Hellfire

4 years ago



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There are 1875 posts in this topic. You are on page 33 of 38.
#1601 6 months ago

I would love to find a set of those white bumper caps.

#1602 6 months ago
Quoted from jj44114:

I would love to find a set of those white bumper caps.

Why? There's a reason Bally decided to ditch them.

The amber ones are a lot nicer-looking and became a major part of the iconic theme.

#1603 6 months ago
Quoted from Troyster42:

Hi Guys,
Hoping for some help. I picked up a EBD LTD for a friend last week. It will be his first pin and I wanted to look over it a little. Everything works and plays fine. The MPU goes through the 7 flashes and the sound 5. This still has a rechargeable battery on the board, I’m pretty sure its not original. When I first looked at it the sound was set to the default chimes I think it wasn’t played enough and the battery drained. I went into the self test and set it to 03 so it sounds normal again. Now I can’t get back into the book keeping or adjustments. I can do the self tests and when I push the button again there is nothing. Even trying to push it 23+ times there is still nothing just the GI and the only way to get out of it is to turn it off and back on. Its still retaining the sound setting and high score. Could it be the ram chip is going bad? I was going to suggest to him putting a 3 aa battery pack off board but if it could be the chip maybe go with a nvram from Pintech, simple swap of the chip.

I did install the NVRAM and the problem is gone, I can get into all of the adjustments fine now. I thought I would post in case anyone else is having similar issues.

#1604 6 months ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

Why? There's a reason Bally decided to ditch them.
The amber ones are a lot nicer-looking and became a major part of the iconic theme.

Because they were the original design, and I think they look better than the amber ones.

#1605 6 months ago
Quoted from jj44114:

Because they were the original design, and I think they look better than the amber ones.

Everyone is entitled to their own preference I guess but I highly-doubt anyone will ever reproduce them because the demand would be low. They didn't illuminate very well and the amber ones became a highly-recognizable feature of the game. They are rare though. I sold a few scabby ones several years ago to a guy who had an early machine that supposedly originally came with them.

#1606 6 months ago

Anyone have one of these custom aprons installed on there EBD? I like it, but I'd really like to see one on the pin itself. If anyone has one on theirs, please post a pic..

aaaa (resized).jpg

#1607 6 months ago
Quoted from Bohdi:

Anyone have one of these custom aprons installed on there EBD? I like it, but I'd really like to see one on the pin itself. If anyone has one on theirs, please post a pic..

I have one but was waiting until I did my playfield swap to install it. I'll see about throwing it on for a quick pic this weekend.

#1608 6 months ago
Quoted from emkay:

I have one but was waiting until I did my playfield swap to install it. I'll see about throwing it on for a quick pic this weekend.

Thanks, that would be great if you could. REALLY want to see what It looks like installed..

#1609 6 months ago

I've got an issue with my lower pop bumper randomly firing during a game. Spoon switch is fine. A buddy told me it could be because of interference when the flippers are operated. He said there was a discussion on this on Pinside. I've looked but can't find anything.

Can someone point me in the right direction?

#1610 6 months ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I've got an issue with my lower pop bumper randomly firing during a game. Spoon switch is fine. A buddy told me it could be because of interference when the flippers are operated. He said there was a discussion on this on Pinside. I've looked but can't find anything.
Can someone point me in the right direction?

If it's firing with flipper activity it's a common Bally issue. I had the same exact issue with my Mata Hari. Lots of ideas on how to fix it. See this thread. See my post #218 in that thread. Adding capacitors to the flipper switches solved my issue.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pop-bumper-fires-with-flipper-activity

#1611 6 months ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

If it's firing with flipper activity it's a common Bally issue. I had the same exact issue with my Mata Hari. Lots of ideas on how to fix it. See this thread. See my post #218 in that thread. Adding capacitors to the flipper switches solved my issue.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pop-bumper-fires-with-flipper-activity

Yup. I found the thread and went through it all. I'm going to start with the easy stuff like the caps.

Thanks!!

#1612 6 months ago

I'd like to replace all the connectors of my boards, + those under the playfield as well (I have the "light boards").

Did someone already went through this and kept the list of all the connectors needed ? I'd really appreciate

#1613 6 months ago

Hey guys,

Troubleshooting a EBD for a friend... The Solenoid for the out hole kicker wasn't ever wired up after a playfield restoration and I can't decipher the wiring diagram.

Could someone post some photos of their 1981 EBD out hole kickers wiring please? I check the photos in this thread and didn't see one... I know there are sposta be two diodes in there, so I'll pick those up, but wanted to be sure of the wiring before firing it up again,

Thanks!

#1614 6 months ago
Quoted from manples:

I'd like to replace all the connectors of my boards, + those under the playfield as well (I have the "light boards").
Did someone already went through this and kept the list of all the connectors needed ? I'd really appreciate

I did this about a month ago. Sorry, I didn't keep my list but it wasn't that hard to make one.

It's an easy job but time consuming. It took me about 8 hours over a couple days to do them all.

#1615 6 months ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Yup. I found the thread and went through it all. I'm going to start with the easy stuff like the caps.
Thanks!!

I have found that new caps and if that does not work, then remove/seperate the power lines from the bundle of switch wires seems to do the trick.

I have had it on lots of classic Bally games and even after doing everything, it can still happen on rare occurrences.

#1616 6 months ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

I have found that new caps and if that does not work, then remove/seperate the power lines from the bundle of switch wires seems to do the trick.
I have had it on lots of classic Bally games and even after doing everything, it can still happen on rare occurrences.

I will say, in trying to eliminate it, I installed caps on the flipper EOS switches...the ones found on System 11 games. It didn't solve the problem but sure eliminated the arcing. Is this commonly done on older Bally games? I'm thinking of leaving them on.

#1617 6 months ago
Quoted from OwenKhan:

Hey guys,
Troubleshooting a EBD for a friend... The Solenoid for the out hole kicker wasn't ever wired up after a playfield restoration and I can't decipher the wiring diagram.
Could someone post some photos of their 1981 EBD out hole kickers wiring please? I check the photos in this thread and didn't see one... I know there are sposta be two diodes in there, so I'll pick those up, but wanted to be sure of the wiring before firing it up again,
Thanks!

This guy?

P1040555 (resized).JPG

#1618 6 months ago

Yes! Thanks BigL.

So no diodes on that one? That wiring (two wires each post) is how the machine I'm working on is set up... the other one next to it has the diodes and seems to use the center post... any idea whats going on there? Do you need the diodes or not? They are present in the schematic...

#1619 6 months ago

Found a teardown image. Mine is wired differently and there are diodes.

DPU_0125 (resized).JPG

#1620 6 months ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I will say, in trying to eliminate it, I installed caps on the flipper EOS switches...the ones found on System 11 games. It didn't solve the problem but sure eliminated the arcing. Is this commonly done on older Bally games? I'm thinking of leaving them on.

That is what Rob A suggested to me.

#1621 6 months ago
Quoted from OwenKhan:

Yes! Thanks BigL.
So no diodes on that one? That wiring (two wires each post) is how the machine I'm working on is set up... the other one next to it has the diodes and seems to use the center post... any idea whats going on there? Do you need the diodes or not? They are present in the schematic...

The outhole kicker is part of the solenoid "Matrix" where they used the solenoid expander to allow each driver to drive two coils depending on which one got power. This is why when the solenoid expander has issues, or you don't have power for the feature lamps, the game will reset the drop targets and then drop the #1 target instead of serving the ball since it is shared with the outhole.

It would appear that someone replaced the 3 lug coil with diodes with a standard two lug coil.

#1622 6 months ago

Ok, so that would be a common repair error since people dont understand that diodes help prevent that crosstalk in the matrix with the expander, I assume.

Cactus: dont both photos show 3 posts though???

Anyone got a photo showing how the diodes are wired?

#1623 6 months ago

This is the best I can do. Both diode bands on on the left.

image (resized).jpeg

#1624 6 months ago
Quoted from OwenKhan:

Cactus: dont both photos show 3 posts though???

Yes, My mistake. I got hung up on the two wires part and no diodes.

Wiring will depend on where the actual enameled wire from the coil go. Those two lugs would have a diode across them (to prevent back EMF) and then the extra lug is used to put a diode in series with the coil and wires. Maybe I can get a shot of mine tonight.

#1625 6 months ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

This is the best I can do. Both diode bands on on the left.

WTF. What are you doing??? Brown and Orange wire should be soldered on the CENTER LUG.
PERIOD!!!!!!

#1626 6 months ago

Vector, ok... can you explain why? Does the schematic show it that way or not?

#1627 6 months ago

Connection will all depend on where the coil enamel wires are and how the diodes are facing. The stripe on the diode (Cathode) matched to the flat line of the diode schematic symbol. The Arrow is the un-striped side.

ebdouthole (resized).JPG

ballycolorcode (resized).JPG

#1628 6 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

WTF. What are you doing??? Brown and Orange wire should be soldered on the CENTER LUG.
PERIOD!!!!!!

Don't over react. That is actually a flipper coil that Bally used in place of a single wound coil. Bally was notorious for doing this with games from 1981-1984. I think they had an overstock of flipper coils and just used those up when Bally game sales slid into the abyys.

It does not matter if you use the center lug or the outside lug, as long as the diode(s) are in the correct direction. Now, the coil may have different kick to it on the center lug vs. the outside lug but that is the only difference you will notice. I've hooked them up both ways on games that have these style coils and it does not seem to make a difference.

As a side note to never forget in pinball: the wire supplying the POWER to the coil always connects to the white banded side of the diode. It may also have two wires if it then distributes power to another coil. The coil lugs themselves are not really important, the band of the diode in relation to the PWR vs. GNDing wires are what is important. Also, don't get confused when I type GNDing. It's not ground in relation to the coil getting power, it's ground in relation to GNDing the coil for a split second when it fires.

#1629 6 months ago

snyper2099, What are you talking about?

THIS three lug coil is not a Flipper Coil, it is a special coil where they used the three lug bobbin so they connect a single coil with a diode across it, and then place another diode in series with the coil so it could be used in a mini coil matrix (Solenoid Expander Relay) as pictured in the snips I posted above.

#1630 6 months ago
Quoted from CactusJack:

snyper2099, What are you talking about?
THIS three lug coil is not a Flipper Coil, it is a special coil where they used the three lug bobbin so they connect a single coil with a diode across it, and then place another diode in series with the coil so it could be used in a mini coil matrix (Solenoid Expander Relay) as pictured in the snips I posted above.

That's strange. If you look up the part number, it's the same coil Bally used on most of their linear flipper assemblies.

I also only speak from experience. If you hook up the GND wire to either lug, it works just fine with the SOL expander relay.

#1631 6 months ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

That's strange. If you look up the part number, it's the same coil Bally used on most of their linear flipper assmeblies.

Okay, I could be wrong. I will have to see what is installed in my EBD. I just have not seen them use that diode arrangement other than on this type of coil.

ebdcoils (resized).JPG

#1632 6 months ago
Quoted from CactusJack:

Okay, I could be wrong. I will have to see what is installed in my EBD. I just have not seen them use that diode arrangement other than on this type of coil.

It makes sense if the diode is the only difference. They could have used the same bobbin+wire types and just moved one leg of one of the diodes. It's also possible that the paper wrappers are wrong. It happened all the time.

I also suspect many "resourceful" ops back in the day just used whatever they had in their part pile, moving diodes around to use these on flipper assemblies and vice versa.

#1633 6 months ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

It makes sense if the diode is the only difference. They could have used the same bobbin+wire types and just moved one leg of one of the diodes. It's also possible that the paper wrappers are wrong. It happened all the time.

I will say this, this being my first older Bally restoration, I simply put the wires back where they initially were before cleaning. Everything in the game worked fine with no issues.

I've now moved the wires to the middle lug and again, no issues anywhere.

My point....it doesn't seem to matter where the orange wires go.

#1634 6 months ago

Oh, Cactus said this:

and then the extra lug is used to put a diode in series with the coil and wires

I'm not understanding how that makes it series... ? To my unknowing brain it seems like you would have to attach the wire to the diode and the diode to the post for it to be series. What am I missing?

#1635 6 months ago

Anyone have an extra one of these plastic peices they would get rid of? Doesn't have to be new. Just something to get me by until cpr releases another run and I do a restore. Thanks.

IMG_4477 (resized).JPG

#1636 6 months ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

Anyone have an extra one of these plastic peices they would get rid of? Doesn't have to be new. Just something to get me by until cpr releases another run and I do a restore. Thanks.

I might. I'll try and remember to check tonight. .

#1637 6 months ago
Quoted from OwenKhan:

Oh, Cactus said this:
and then the extra lug is used to put a diode in series with the coil and wires
I'm not understanding how that makes it series... ? To my unknowing brain it seems like you would have to attach the wire to the diode and the diode to the post for it to be series. What am I missing?

As best as I can tell from the schematic and some poor photos, the center post does NOT have any coil winding on it. So, the only thing attached to the center lug is the Anode of one of the diodes. That diode then allows power to pass to one of the other coil lugs which has both a coil winding and the Cathode of the other diode. So, instead of just having the diode "in line" with the wire before it attaches to the coil (like by using a solder eyelet screwed to the playfield nearby, they used the 3rd lug on the coil as a solder point for the in-series diode.

The first diode prevents power, that can pass through one of the coils, from finding its way to the other Power Buss of the Solenoid Expander relay. See red power path:

ebdoutholeX (resized).jpg

#1638 6 months ago

Ok, Cactus... I think I'm on board now. So you're saying the center post on this particular SOL is ONLY there as a point to solder to? (this can be different on flipper SOLs, right?)

Assuming that is right (center post = no wraps) then the photo that Bryan Kelly posted is wrong, or at least substantially different... as if the center post isn't wired to anything then one of those diodes isn't doing anything at all because one end isn't connected to anything.... right??? Could the SOL still work wired like this? or are we making an incorrect assumption about that center post?

Where as in the photo posted by g94 the two brown power lines are on the center post, from which current would then flow through the diode and into the coils, and the other diode bridges post 1 and post 3. This seems to match the schematic 100%.

Am I on track here? Thanks again for your time, its really helpful to have folks like you take the time to answer my questions thoroughly.

#1639 6 months ago
Quoted from OwenKhan:

Ok, Cactus... I think I'm on board now. So you're saying the center post on this particular SOL is ONLY there as a point to solder to? (this can be different on flipper SOLs, right?)
Assuming that is right (center post = no wraps) then the photo that Bryan Kelly posted is wrong, or at least substantially different... as if the center post isn't wired to anything then one of those diodes isn't doing anything at all because one end isn't connected to anything.... right??? Could the SOL still work wired like this? or are we making an incorrect assumption about that center post?
Where as in the photo posted by g94 the two brown power lines are on the center post, from which current would then flow through the diode and into the coils, and the other diode bridges post 1 and post 3. This seems to match the schematic 100%.
Am I on track here? Thanks again for your time, its really helpful to have folks like you take the time to answer my questions thoroughly.

This pic should show it better. Notice the coil wires go to the left and right lugs. The back diode is the one that's in parallel with the coil. The front one is the one in series, but only if one of the wires gets connected to the center lug. I had my wires connected on the left and right, thereby excluding the series diode.

image (resized).jpeg

#1640 6 months ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

Anyone have an extra one of these plastic peices they would get rid of? Doesn't have to be new. Just something to get me by until cpr releases another run and I do a restore. Thanks.

Planetary has the plastics...

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Category_Code=GS-762&Product_Code=PPS-M-1330-189

#1641 6 months ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

The front one is the one in series, but only if one of the wires gets connected to the center lug. I had my wires connected on the left and right, thereby excluding the series diode.

Bingo!

#1642 6 months ago

Awesome. Thanks Bryan, I got it now. Thanks for posting a clear photo.

Any reason yours was wired to exclude the diode? It still works that way but there is more chance of the expander matrix doing weird things, right?

#1643 6 months ago

Does anyone know where to get a drop target coi plunger one was missing and can't seme to find one thought i can use another style but none seem to fit the measurements

#1644 6 months ago
Quoted from jj44114:

I would love to find a set of those white bumper caps.

Why would you want white bumper caps?, the amber ones look great, mine have these aftermarket rings which I think look even better

ebd (resized).jpg

#1645 6 months ago
Quoted from TIB:

mine have these aftermarket rings which I think look even better

They do look good. I wish the manufacture would bring back the OEM style of caps.
The frosted inside and not the starburst.

#1646 6 months ago

So I just powered up my Eight Ball deluxe restoration for the first time. Immediately blew F4 fuse. I'm an EM guy so not really sure where to start with this. Any help would appreciated. Just a little background, all boards were functioning before the restoration process. Original mpu, aftermarket for the rest of the boards. When I unplug J1 connector, I get 6 green flashes on the original mpu at power up. GI is working driver board shows power on LEDs, same with sound board. Thoughts?

#1647 6 months ago

Bridges.

#1648 6 months ago
Quoted from TIB:

Why would you want white bumper caps?, the amber ones look great, mine have these aftermarket rings which I think look even better

White bumper caps reminds me of Clark Griswalds gift from Eddie.

#1649 6 months ago

Anybody have a spare working squawk & talk board they would like to sell?

#1650 6 months ago
Quoted from Bohdi:

I might. I'll try and remember to check tonight. .

Don't have that plastic, sorry

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