(Topic ID: 308430)

RUSH Pinball Official Owners Club-“Straining the Limits of Machine and Man”

By mrossman5

2 years ago


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  • Latest reply 14 minutes ago by bigguybbr
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#16951 6 months ago
Quoted from Photopin:

I think the ball hit the side of the ramp and the impact triggered something and it started launching balls. The first ball I shot into the ramp looked like it got stuck at the top like happens every now and then. I shot a second ball up there to knock the first loose and both were held by the magnet. The third ball I shot up the ramp stuck to the first two. It was only after that when the Subdivisions mode started.

Very nice move man!
Wondering if you're time machine multiball start countdown was at 3 and subdivisions was selected then maybe you just got credit for those three balls and it started. You just did it in a very unique way!
Now if it launches 3 more balls automatically but 3 balls were in the time machine, then that's a code edge case that wouldn't likely have been accounted for. You probably then got a situational bonus of having 6 balls in play and cushion of being able to drain 3 balls and still be in a 3 ball ball multiball.. can't say for sure but it's possible the code might check the trough optos for determining qty of balls in play so it's just a 3 ball gift. That's one possible theory I came up with if I'm understanding what happened correctly.

#16952 6 months ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

What? No shout out to me for pointing out, to you, how useless the notches are on the front of the factory 5.25" speaker plates? Don't you remember asking me about the notches and you not even being aware of them or what they were? I sent you some pictures and explained that the plates didn't need them, and the plates may look better without them. It was just a few months ago, about the time you were saying: "Let me be clear, we have no interest in being in the speaker light business" when asking various questions about my speaker lights. Then you asked for one of my light kits that you put on your test bench and put through its paces with seeing how it worked and how much power you could pump into it before you fried the light strips.
It seems pretty weird that you would do all of that when you went out of your way, unprovoked, to say: "Let me be clear, we have no interest in being in the speaker light business" when it is now obvious, that is exactly what you were interested in doing.
I have often communicated with Pinwoofer Dan over the past 4 years. Usually with one of us or the other having questions to make sure our mutual customers don't have any compatibility issues with our products....and they never have. All of our products work nicely together without issue. So, I really had no reason to be suspicious of him when he would ask questions or asked for one of my light kits. Sadly...that was just me being a trusting dumbshit, as he was using that info and my goodwill to step on my toes and start selling his own speaker lights. Evidently, his "Let me be clear" rang true to me, when his statement about having no interest in getting in the speaker light business was clearly not true.
Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/improving-sound-quality-the-diy-route/page/30#post-7838797

Be careful the company you keep.

#16953 6 months ago

Wow. I'd like to hear an explanation on this from PinWoofer as there's usually more sides to every story. John's a stand up guy and all my past experiences with Dan would indicate the same.

#16954 6 months ago

Lets talk about Rush

#16955 6 months ago
Quoted from Jamesays:

Lets talk about Rush

Or let's just talk about talking about Rush

#16956 6 months ago

This pin is absolutely Brilliant !

Just perfect.

#16957 6 months ago

Dilemma:

Rush was my first ever NIB and I bought Premium when it was released.
Playfield was planked.
Stern agreed to ship a new populated playfield.
It's finally ready after >1 year of waiting for it.
I have never had a Node 10 issue.

Either I keep the planked playfield, or accept the new playfield and cross my fingers that it doesn't have the Node 10 issues.

I suppose I could ask for an unpopulated playfield but who really wants to do all that work of swapping everything on a very expensive NIB?

#16958 6 months ago

I would prefer to keep both.

#16959 6 months ago
Quoted from Vespula:

I would prefer to keep both.

So would I but I think I have to ship the old one back as part of the exchange

#16960 6 months ago
Quoted from Vespula:

if anyone is going to do under cabinet, or back box, or speaker lights or topper lights and they have expression lighting .. then the ninja camp expressive light kit is the way to go, imo. They ALL sync with expression lights and are top notch quality ..and they did it first.

Nope. Sorry, noob...but Rock Custom did the undercabinet and backbox lighting first.

#16961 6 months ago
Quoted from Jamesays:

I have been a customer of
Dougs speakerlights.com
Ninja camp and
Pinwoofer I am very satisfied with all of their products and have no right to post my opinion on their Businesses other than Very Satisfied with all 3

I go to all three for their original products that they excel in. In a related note, I also won't buy my reset boards from Pinsound; I get them from Rob Kahr.

And now back on topic before I piss you off: I played the 2112 challenge today and got to stage 4. It was awesome!

#16962 6 months ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

I go to all three for their original products that they excel in. In a related note, I also won't buy my reset boards from Pinsound; I get them from Rob Kahr.
And now back on topic before I piss you off: I played the 2112 challenge today and got to stage 4. It was awesome!

it is awesome

#16963 6 months ago
Quoted from Boslaw:

So would I but I think I have to ship the old one back as part of the exchange

Stern just hit me up as well, a year later, ready to ship my replacement playfield out. Wasn't sure if this ever was going to happen. Still waiting on a lock down bar as well due to a large dent out of the box. Yes, we have to send our originals back. I would imagine the new motors should be installed already, and if not it's a relatively easy to fix. My concern is just how they are going to package/ship these populated PF's. There's some pretty fragile components involved here!!

#16964 6 months ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

I go to all three for their original products that they excel in. In a related note, I also won't buy my reset boards from Pinsound; I get them from Rob Kahr.
And now back on topic before I piss you off: I played the 2112 challenge today and got to stage 4. It was awesome!

Stage 7 first try!

#16965 6 months ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Stage 7 first try!

Score?

#16966 6 months ago

He hasn't scored since he got married.

#16967 6 months ago

Is anyone else finding that switch test is broken since the update?

#16968 6 months ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

Is anyone else finding that switch test is broken since the update?

Just checked mine and switch test is working.

#16969 6 months ago

Okay, thanks, so I guess it wasn't the update then.

What would cause this? Game works fine, but gives a tech alert on the shooter lane switch. Went into diag, and the switch indeed doesn't register, but it still fires the launch solenoid like it thinks your finger is a ball! Then we realize none of the switches are registering in the test! This happened as, sadly, I was selling the game. He still bought it so I would like to help figure it out for him!

#16970 6 months ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

Okay, thanks, so I guess it wasn't the update then.
What would cause this? Game works fine, but gives a tech alert on the shooter lane switch. Went into diag, and the switch indeed doesn't register, but it still fires the launch solenoid like it thinks your finger is a ball! Then we realize none of the switches are registering in the test! This happened as, sadly, I was selling the game. He still bought it so I would like to help figure it out for him!

Well, ya sold Rush and are therefore a traitor. We can no longer help you.
that is crazy.... Does it matter if the coin door is shut?

#16971 6 months ago
Quoted from Sluggo39:

I’m also having this issue and I’m talking to Stern about it

I was able to update the code by wifi. I tried a second time & it worked. Possibly a weak signal the first time? Normally I just do w/ a USB, but for some reason the machine wouldn't take it. All's well w/ the 1.13 code >

#16972 6 months ago

Thinking about a Premium or a Pro, and read the thread from a solid year ago.

Looks like people have more issues with the Premium extra features? Is Pro just an overall stealthier, easier machine to maintain and not break?

I've played the Pro on location, and really dig it!

#16973 6 months ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Well, ya sold Rush and are therefore a traitor. We can no longer help you.
that is crazy.... Does it matter if the coins door is shut?

Believe me I did not want to. It was either that or continue living life without a car. I plan on buying another someday.

#16974 6 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Looks like people have more issues with the Premium extra features? Is Pro just an overall stealthier, easier machine to maintain and not break?

Yes and yes. Don't forget about also saving a couple grand.

#16975 6 months ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Yes and yes. Don't forget about also saving a couple grand.

You only live once.... Go for the LE and enjoy!

#16976 6 months ago

Looks like GAP is listing both the pro and premium nib... 7k and 9500. Interesting.

#16977 6 months ago

Question, On my Rush premium, my front scoop came with side protectors installed. I guess this was done at the factory due to all the problems with the bending metal and all. Problem is, this only allows a shot from the front to enter the scoop.

What's everyone's opinion on removing the side protectors and installing Ninjacamps mod to protect the metal from damage? This will allow a more wide open shot to enter the front scoop. Just would like to know your thoughts on if I should do it. Thanks

#16978 6 months ago
Quoted from tscottn:

Question, On my Rush premium, my front scoop came with side protectors installed. I guess this was done at the factory due to all the problems with the bending metal and all. Problem is, this only allows a shot from the front to enter the scoop.
What's everyone's opinion on removing the side protectors and installing Ninjacamps mod to protect the metal from damage? This will allow a more wide open shot to enter the front scoop. Just would like to know your thoughts on if I should do it. Thanks

Yes, looks 10x better, fairly easy install. Put some mylar under and in front of both scoops while you've got it apart.

#16979 6 months ago
Quoted from tscottn:

Question, On my Rush premium, my front scoop came with side protectors installed. I guess this was done at the factory due to all the problems with the bending metal and all. Problem is, this only allows a shot from the front to enter the scoop.
What's everyone's opinion on removing the side protectors and installing Ninjacamps mod to protect the metal from damage? This will allow a more wide open shot to enter the front scoop. Just would like to know your thoughts on if I should do it. Thanks

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1/page/104#post-6885614

#16980 6 months ago
Quoted from tscottn:

Question, On my Rush premium, my front scoop came with side protectors installed. I guess this was done at the factory due to all the problems with the bending metal and all. Problem is, this only allows a shot from the front to enter the scoop.
What's everyone's opinion on removing the side protectors and installing Ninjacamps mod to protect the metal from damage? This will allow a more wide open shot to enter the front scoop. Just would like to know your thoughts on if I should do it. Thanks

I've got the dark gray blinders on my pro from the factory. Aesthetically it might look better to some but I don't feel that way so why go through the hassle to remove them?
My game plays great and I can hit the scoop when I need to most times just fine and therefore game-wise I don't see a benefit to it for a very few balls slipping in from the side to get mystery 4% more often or far cry lock, etc. It's just not a problem.
So I don't see need to go through the chore unless you have physical damage or something going on that warranted a protector swap and you didn't like the blinders then, yeah, remove them.

11
#16981 6 months ago

In my opinion, those blinders look like a sad afterthought. They get in the way, and the ninja camp protector looks and feels like what should have been there to begin with.

#16982 6 months ago

Seconded.

Quoted from yzfguy:

In my opinion, those blinders look like a sad afterthought. They get in the way, and the ninja camp protector looks and feels like what should have been there to begin with.

#16983 6 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Thinking about a Premium or a Pro, and read the thread from a solid year ago.
Looks like people have more issues with the Premium extra features? Is Pro just an overall stealthier, easier machine to maintain and not break?
I've played the Pro on location, and really dig it!

I very much like the Pro. For me the Premium adds extra complexity and not enough reason to spend an extra $2500. Try to find a Premium to play, but if you like the Pro that's a safe bet for you.

#16984 6 months ago

And you're going to want expression lights which is another 500 bucks so...

#16985 6 months ago
Quoted from tscottn:

Question, On my Rush premium, my front scoop came with side protectors installed. I guess this was done at the factory due to all the problems with the bending metal and all. Problem is, this only allows a shot from the front to enter the scoop.
What's everyone's opinion on removing the side protectors and installing Ninjacamps mod to protect the metal from damage? This will allow a more wide open shot to enter the front scoop. Just would like to know your thoughts on if I should do it. Thanks

get the ninja camp protectors and if your switch isnt registering get Sterns replacement .

#16986 6 months ago
Quoted from PoMC:

At this point I'm still unable to completely silence the new shooter lane callouts. Replacing with a silent audio clip results in a pop being heard when it plays. The game music volume also slightly decreases when the clip is played. So it's actually way more annoying than any callout being played. I'm trying something else right now, but still get the pop sound.
So those callouts might need to remain in 1.13, but I am replacing the Pre/LE ramp and captive ball callouts that are in the Pro code. I don't need to silence them, just change them so they're not referencing non-existent game features.
Here's the stock pro 1.12 code if anyone wants to revert back it. Only keeping this link up a few days at the most because I'm low on cloud storage.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-9epQPk7y05n9nUDP-v8y6IXsIAFzQLx/view?usp=sharing

Is there any way you could put the link back up for the 1.12 stock pro code for one more day? I just saw this post and would like to download it please. Thanks in advance if at all possible.

#16987 5 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Thinking about a Premium or a Pro

It may depend on how big of a RUSH fan you are. I've played the Pro (and own a Premium) If I didn't love the band so much, I would be happy with the Pro. I don't think it compromises game play too much.
But...Its RUSH!
I had to have the Premium!

#16988 5 months ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

Okay, thanks, so I guess it wasn't the update then.
What would cause this? Game works fine, but gives a tech alert on the shooter lane switch. Went into diag, and the switch indeed doesn't register, but it still fires the launch solenoid like it thinks your finger is a ball! Then we realize none of the switches are registering in the test! This happened as, sadly, I was selling the game. He still bought it so I would like to help figure it out for him!

I would suspect another switch might be the culprit. On LZ I had a solder blob on a stand up that would cause some odd ball issues like occasionally points scoring when the EOS switch on the right flipper closed, but never showed up in a tech alert. As soon as I fixed the solder blob, everything worked.

I would check all the switches since it is giving a false positive with the shooter lane switch.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#16989 5 months ago
Quoted from Fussa71:

It may depend on how big of a RUSH fan you are. I've played the Pro (and own a Premium) If I didn't love the band so much, I would be happy with the Pro. I don't think it compromises game play too much.
But...Its RUSH!
I had to have the Premium!

That was my initial thought process, in fact I was going to do an LE if I could.

That said - The pro translite and art was my initial favorite and then I found out I would be able to add ELs so I figured I would use the money saved to buy those and a topper instead. Sadly I don't have many Rush or pinball friends (most of my buddies don't care much) so for me I was totally happy with going the "cheap route" which still went over $10k with upgrades!

#16990 5 months ago
Quoted from Fussa71:

It may depend on how big of a RUSH fan you are. I've played the Pro (and own a Premium) If I didn't love the band so much, I would be happy with the Pro. I don't think it compromises game play too much.
But...Its RUSH!
I had to have the Premium!

I’m a huge Rush fan, but pinball wasn’t my hobby but had to have a Rush pin. Couldn’t justify the extra thousands for premium or pro, especially when you can get the expression lights for the pro. I also like the pro artwork the most.
I think if you’re a pinball player, then you might want to get the premium or LE. But if you’re just a Rush fan who thinks having a Rush pinball machine is cool. Go for the pro. You’ll save $$$ and also possibly avoid node board failure stress.

#16991 5 months ago

Well said. Seconded.

Quoted from Big_G:

I think if you’re a pinball player, then you might want to get the premium or LE. But if you’re just a Rush fan who thinks having a Rush pinball machine is cool. Go for the pro.

#16992 5 months ago
Quoted from Apollo18:

Well said. Seconded.

Thanks!

#16993 5 months ago
Quoted from Big_G:

I also got to Cygnus II and 2112 but took me six balls. I bumped to 5 balls, home mode and all settings at “easy” level but since upgrade I changed to 10 balls as I was only getting to Cygnus I consistently. Lot of fun but didn’t complete either. This game is hard which is fine if set on standard or competition modes. Home mode with all other settings on easy or extra easy shouldn’t need a 6 ball game. Easy should mean easy whether pinball or video game or whatever. I’d like to see v1.14 make the modes easier to complete in the easy settings. Maybe just reduce the number of shots needed to complete the modes. Only one that’s easy is SoR. Love the game but on easy and home mode, should reach 2112 maybe 1 of 4 times on a 5 ball game, not 1 of almost never. That’s not “easy.” If easy is too easy for a player then just change game settings for a challenge.

When this game first shipped I said I think the Pro was one of the hardest games I've ever played. Every shot is finicky and the game punishes you for every miss.

I have over 1k personal plays on the default setting. I've never come close to book 1 on that setting.

When I bumped it down to the factory easy setting I got there first try but felt like I cheated so I turned it back to default and reset the scores. I haven't come close since.

I think there are 2 big reasons why the Pro is tough to get through.

1. The captive ball target on the premium gets a lot of accidental hits that the pro doesn't. You really have to go for that one on the Pro and it's a sucker shot.

2. The (vuk) shot on the premium gives you a nice consistant setup shot. The same shot (dead end) on the PRO just means random chaos that frequently results in ball out.

Tough game.

#16994 5 months ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

I would suspect another switch might be the culprit. On LZ I had a solder blob on a stand up that would cause some odd ball issues like occasionally points scoring when the EOS switch on the right flipper closed, but never showed up in a tech alert. As soon as I fixed the solder blob, everything worked.
I would check all the switches since it is giving a false positive with the shooter lane switch.
[quoted image]

I don't know where it was coming out of Covid or what but it seems like there was a lot of shoddy workmanship on this game, bad alignment of bolts, bad soldering, cheap/bad wiring, etc. Just a lot of stuff that should have been caught in QC but got passed on through.

#16995 5 months ago
Quoted from Wicked-Flip:

When this game first shipped I said I think the Pro was one of the hardest games I've ever played. Every shot is finicky and the game punishes you for every miss.
I have over 1k personal plays on the default setting. I've never come close to book 1 on that setting.
When I bumped it down to the factory easy setting I got there first try but felt like I cheated so I turned it back to default and reset the scores. I haven't come close since.
I think there are 2 big reasons why the Pro is tough to get through.
1. The captive ball target on the premium gets a lot of accidental hits that the pro doesn't. You really have to go for that one on the Pro and it's a sucker shot.
2. The (vuk) shot on the premium gives you a nice consistant setup shot. The same shot (dead end) on the PRO just means random chaos that frequently results in ball out.
Tough game.

I guess it makes sense for the pro to be harder since it sits in arcades where more plays = more $$$ while the premium & LE are home versions.

#16996 5 months ago
Quoted from Wicked-Flip:

The (vuk) shot on the premium gives you a nice consistant setup shot. The same shot (dead end) on the PRO just means random chaos that frequently results in ball out.

Tough game.

On my pro the dead end shot returns to the right flipper every time. Sometimes I can hit the dead end multiple times in a row because it always comes back to my right flipper. Never ball out. So your statement tells me the machine you played on needed adjusted.

Instrument dead end Target requires a precise shot and is a tough shot, agreed, but I'm getting better and hitting it is very satisfying. Especially when Freewill multi ball is ready.

I never played anything other than standard setting. And I've never made it to cygnus outside of the challenge mode. Someday.... No rush.

#16997 5 months ago
Quoted from Vespula:

On my pro the dead end shot returns to the right flipper every time. Sometimes I can hit the dead end multiple times in a row because it always comes back to my right flipper. Never ball out. So your statement tells me the machine you played on needed adjusted.

Instrument dead end Target requires a precise shot and is a tough shot, agreed, but I'm getting better and hitting it is very satisfying. Especially when Freewill multi ball is ready.

I never played anything other than standard setting. And I've never made it to cygnus outside of the challenge mode. Someday.... No rush.

There are some difficult shots that are either hard to make or drain after you make them. I can live with those physical challenges. I just think the “easy” code settings should make completing modes easy. The only way I have any chance of completing most modes is to line them up with a multiball. That shouldn’t be necessary on “easy” settings. The multiballs come more frequently on the “easy” setting but I would suggest reducing the number of shots needed to complete the modes so they are actually “easier”, but only when set to “easy.” Not sure that’s doable but would make the game much more enjoyable for players that have either less skill or don’t have time to memorize the all of rules.

#16998 5 months ago

Another question, what’s the strategy for beating Bastille day? It seems too quick, like as soon as it starts, Geddy is counting down already. With a multiball, I try to bank shots at the targets, but with one ball seems impossible. Anyone like to share their technique?

#16999 5 months ago

Bastille Day is very hard for me to complete I have not done it but a few times usually one letter short when I get that close. I think if you keep hitting the right ramp It extends the timer so I think that's the only strategy I know of to give you more time to complete the letters. And of course if you had the weapon activated during that mode I think that collects it... I'm fuzzy on the details here But that's my current assuming knowledge.

#17000 5 months ago
Quoted from the_carmanizer:

Has anyone else had their Ninjacamp scoop protector break like this? It looked and worked great ... until it broke. I don't want to purchase another if it's likely or certain to happen again. Just wondering if I got a lemon. Lasted for probably a year on a home game.
[quoted image]

mine broke in a similar spot. Strangely, it’s split the length of that side piece going down not a clean break across as you might expect. Mine is blue. I don’t know if some colors are more prone to breaking than others. I messaged ninjacamp last week, but haven’t heard anything back. Trying to decide whether to go with another ninja camp or use the Stern replacement.

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