To each their own. I'm just saying there's no more risk to running the silent fans than there is running the stock fans. So saying you prefer the stock fans because you know they're running is a moot point. Stern has built in fail-safes in case a fan fails. If you don't mind the noise, more power to ya.

I have 5. It's worth it. People will spend 5X the amount on a stupid plastic decoration for the playfield that doesn't do anything.

I have another spike 2 on loan, and it's annoying every time I hear that fan kick on.

PinMonk has been great. He stands behind his product. Buy with confidence.

Does anyone have the original fan specification that is in the stock power supply? Or a picture of the original fan?

This is a misconception. The power supply electronics are not going to be allowed to overheat if the fan stops working. The built-in power supply failsafe will kick in and turn the power supply off BEFORE it overheats. The same sensor that tells the power supply to turn the fan on at 122F will tell the power supply to turn off completely at 158F. The fan replacement option has been around now for almost 5 years (first with the DIY thread I made, then with the DIY plus the plug and play option I later started selling) and I have heard of zero cases of the failsafe engaging due to a dead fan. But if it DID happen, replace fan, continue playing, problem solved. There's no reason to put up with those obnoxious stock fans, except personal preference. DIY from my original how-to thread or plug and play with the kit I sell, it can be addressed.

Here's the operation graph that shows the the fan's built-in failsafe operation that eventually shuts the power off to protect the power supply if it gets too hot, for your reference:

RSP 500-48_temp_graph (resized).jpg

There have been two fans used over time in all Spike 2 Prem/LE machines, actually - bad (NMB), and worse (PowerNex). Pro machines have had THREE different fans because they started with a crappier power supply that Stern eventually changed to match the Prem/LEs. The Prem/LE fans are documented in the DIY thread and an update thread I made when I thought Stern changed the fan for the better (they actually made the noise worse).

The original NMB in most Stern's is documented here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-stern-spike-noisy-ps-fans.

The PowerNex most newer Sterns (including all recent machines) have is documented here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-finally-has-a-new-fan-in-their-spike2-power-supplies

If you're talking about the fans I sell or from the DIY thread, yes, they have plenty of flow to blow off a paper towel, as it's the recommended final step of installation to test your work.

The most common issues at install are not putting the fan in with the label facing out or torquing the thread-cutting screws going into the fan so tight they tweak the fan housing and either cause noise from the fan blades hitting the tweaked casing, or the tweaking prevents the blades from turning. After working through the issue with the first people to have that happen, I made an adjustment to the instructions to call out both these install mistakes to prevent them from happening.

Thanks for the info! My .02 cents...Fan speed can be changed based on the input voltage, BLDC fans have an input operating voltage range and the RPM can vary quite a bit. I am not saying that Meanwell does this on this particular design just stating the fact. Also CFM (volume of air) is only one metric for fan performance evaluation, static pressure is also important, the ability of the fan to push air against resistance like the input and output grill openings. The opening size and shape also contribute to the total noise you hear. The lower cost fans you noted in your other posts are to reduce or keep the price of the supply neutral with the rising cost of everything else. The maglev bearing fan you supply is in a different league from the stock fans noted with sleeve bearings. Good work!

This is a misconception. The power supply electronics are not going to be allowed to overheat if the fan stops working. The built-in power supply failsafe will kick in and turn the power supply off BEFORE it overheats.

Appreciate the research & information on this vital issue, the lifeline of our games. But let me ask if there is any truth to the assertion that the stock power supplies generate excessive heat because the power supplies used in Spike 2 games are substandard/minimum for the application, for production cost savings?

Yeah, I went through all that with static pressure, voltage, etc when I was doing the DIY thread. There's no fan control line on these fans, and Meanwell is not varying the voltage, I checked when my 2023 Stranger Things came in somewhat quieter, but with the same crappy PowerNex fan. I thought meanwell was delivering lower voltage to reduce the speed a little. Nope. Must have just got a golden PowerNex. I bought a lottery ticket that day.

In the end, as long as the fan can move enough air to keep the power supply below 122F, everything works as designed. The fans I use do that, and also get it below 104F when it shuts off, but because of the lower airflow it just runs a little longer than the stock fan to get back to 104F once it comes on at 122F. Since you can't hear it anymore (or if you CAN, it's not a droning menace), doesn't really matter.

Appreciate the research & information on this vital issue, the lifeline of our games. But let me ask if there is any truth to the assertion that the stock power supplies generate excessive heat because the power supplies used in Spike 2 games are substandard/minimum for the application? In other words, might we not even be having this conversation if the games had been equipped with the appropriate power supply instead of the one that came in with the lowest bid?

I don't think so. The Meanwell power supplies are solid. The only place that topic came in to my knowledge was due to Stern's poor engineering of the PDB with a massive amount of capacitance that exceeds the max inrush the power supply can support at boot (only at boot). It caused a bunch of machines with the newer caps on the Stern PDB to click at boot - and some to click until the boot failed. It wasn't a problem when the caps Stern was using had lower inrush, but then CDE changed the internals of the caps (apparently without telling Stern) and it showed up the engineering problem with assumptions Stern made that were no longer true. IMO, of course. But I've looked at it a LOT in the clicking power supply thread, and I think Stern blaming the power supply is BS. The power supply is doing exactly what it's spec'd to do.

Meanwell also makes specialized power supplies that can handle 350% inrush, as well as fanless power supplies that are heavier duty. Both are much more expensive. Stern *could* have used one of those, but that's more money, and well, Stern. Not going to happen.

Bottom line, the power supply is fine. The fan is doing what it's supposed to to, and the design works. Any issues are on Stern's side, IMO. If you get a clicking power supply, refer to the clicking power supply thread and replace the caps with ones that solve the problem with Stern's engineering.

Again thank you for the information, I feel much more confident now and will be ordering upgraded fans for all my Spike 2 games today.
FYI: I based my question on info about the power supplies shared in 3 YT videos entitled "Should you buy a NEW Stern Pinball Machine? - Pinball Expert -" 2 posted by Brisbane Australia and 1 posted by Stern/George Gomez

Oh, THAT old video. Yeah, that guy's a little "sky is falling" and his doom and gloom predictions from 6 years ago didn't happen in any appreciable way. Stern engineering is pretty poor in many respects, and their support of special node boards that have gone NLA is pretty bad, but it's what we got, and the engineering is "good enough" to get by. I would take Meanwell's engineering over Stern's any day of the week, which is why I think it's laughable that Stern is blaming the power supply for the latest issues with clicking that are actually caused by Stern's engineering, IMO.

My 2023 AIQ Pro came with a different Meanwell PSU that has a different shape/profile, and a different fan that is essentially silent. Same machine that came with the white plastic flipper bushings. Hopefully both are previews of new parts that will become standard soon.

well i keep breaking a billion and im getting closer to planet x.

was missing tanks but had 3 extra balls.

my issue tends to be ball handling. im not nailing the live catch off the loop.

the great part of this game is how it just opens up at one point. i never restart unless im trash still at ball 3, so thats super rare. if im missing the scoop shot, i just shift gears and go for gz mb or mz mb.

What's the model number on your AIQ PSU? This is the first I'm hearing of it...my Stranger Things was still an RSP-500-48.

The PSU model is HRP-600-48. Here are three pics, the last of which is the PSU pulled out and laid on the crossbar, with one of the original PSU fans from one of my other Spike 2 machines sitting on top for comparison.

A larger fan, so obviously capable of moving more air with fewer RPMs.

IMG_6410 (resized).jpeg

IMG_6411 (resized).jpeg

IMG_6412 (resized).jpeg

That's a much more expensive power supply. About 30% more expensive than the RSP-500-48. They may be trying to fix the PDB inrush problem with that power supply, and it should be better, but it's not going to totally fix the issue on the crappier CDE caps that have high inrush. The N3 version of that HRP-600-48 is the one that can withstand 350% inrush.

Interesting if Stern is transitioning to this, or if it was just a one-off while they tried to work out the clicking power supply thing. The sound level is worse at full speed, a whopping 45dB. But not sure if meanwell is varying the power to reduce the noise.

The fan size is the same overall size the older 350w Meanwells Stern used to use in the pros. It's also interesting that NMB warns that this fan should not be used in new designs, but to use a newer one with different specs.

Thanks for those pics!

Sure thing. I have never heard this fan in normal usage and it’s running in my game room every night. I assume it’s just never running at full speed.

The scoop shot is challenging but I am getting the hang of it.
Last weeks I have more rejects from the scoop. The ball seems to be right in there, and bumps out again.
Is that part of the placement of the scoop, or are there any adjustments to make sure the ball stays there?

Thanks a lot!

I have not had any scoop reject issues on GZ (1500+ plays). Maybe try lowering the lower left flipper coil strength a tad?

Not sure if it applies to you, but I just started having some issues with rejects(1k plays), however it came after a good cleaning and fresh set of balls. I'm positive its how fast the game is playing now, and I'm never pissed at the reject, it's always a reminder to slow it down for me. My left flipper is turned down a tad from factory as well. It's crazy what kind of behavior from the machine you get used to after some hundred plays. Then you clean it and your muscle memory is completely off.

Same scoop rejection issue here after installing coil fans & then cleaning & waxing my playfield 2 days ago after 400 plays. I'm hesitant about turning down the flipper strength as that would surely result in more right ramp rejections. That old saying " With every action comes a reaction " couldn't be more true in pinball. Hitting that scoop is already hard enough, that no salt in the wound is needed with 2 of 3 hits resulting in rejections. I may add a piece of foam tape to the back of the scoop, which reduced scoop rejections on my Munsters.

New Japanese Godzilla commercial for McDonalds...

Would be hilarious to put that in the commercial rotation on the pin attract mode.

Probably already been discussed here already but we just saw Godzilla Minus One (black and white) and were totally blown away by it. It would be really cool to see clips from that movie integrated into the code by Stern or with a custom code a'la Jurassic park movie code.

I'd have to check my game to see how much I turned it down, it wasn't much. I agree with the salt statement. Do whatever you gotta do to make your experience fun and fair. In my experience a soft shot from the left flipper is the only way to consistently hit the scoop for someone of my awful skill. If I had more rejects I would be adding foam tape myself.

I agree on the soft shot for the scoop. The ball really has to be rolling slowly down behind the left sling for me to make that shot. Otherwise, I occasionally get a lucky bounce into the scoop. I have yet to see a bounce out of the scoop. I have had recently during mulit-ball to have 2 balls in the scoop.

Did you see a black and white version of the movie? If so, that will be the excuse I need to see it again.

Mine sticks pretty much every time on GZ but have had a few problems with scoops on other sterns that bounce out... some NIB some routed or highly used HUO. My left flipper is at original power on GZ.

Try to figure where the bounce out is and adjust that accordingly. If its been on route usually bending things forward/backward into original position helps. If new just try to see whats happening in slow mo.

Anyone interested in some beautiful green armor for their Godzilla? The powder coating was done by pinball refinery.

Legs
Hinges
Lock down bar
Lolli pop rails
And the green T-molding

I have a lot of pictures but I’ll just post one here.

Message me if you’re interested.
(Shipping in the US only)

I’ll probably place an ad in the next few days.

IMG_6537 (resized).jpeg

Green Armor is sold now.

Begs the question, what are you replacing them with?

We did. Probably going to go back and see it in color.

Nothing.

I sold Godzilla last year.

Look in the bottom of the cabinet for cables interfering with the "building down" switch. Mine had the playfield wire harness engaging this switch leading to all kinds of building no worky problems. Look to see if this switch is working when playfield is horizontal and back down in the cabinet through entire range of the building when it travels down. The up and down switches should only be activated when in those positions, if it is triggering early due to interference, that might be the issue.

It was in theaters for about a week, called GODZILLA MINUS ONE MINUS COLOR.

I... think it might be playing through Feb 4(?)

So my mechaG magnet attachment failed and the poor guy's got a hernia. Problem is I can't for the life of me find the screw in the cabinet or on the playfield and I'm thinking it may have slid under some plastic somewhere. I've ordered a replacement 8/32 x 3/8 screw, but I can't find anything about the PPH SEMS subscript after the description in the manual. I'm guessing these are the integrated washers, but my question is are these necessary or can I just insert the screw alone and be done with it. I can use a rubber spacer if that helps, and I'm also going to seal this shi*t with blue loctite 'cus damn it's a bitch to get in there.

So long story short, is it ok to use just a 8/32 x 3/8" screw, or must I go with the 8/32 x 3/8" PPH SEMS per the manual or something may break/ fail.

Thanks,

Mothra Larva mod

A must have for the 2021 Stern Godzilla pinball machine !
For all version (LE/Premium/Pro)
You can put it in everywhere on your playfield. I have choosen the Mothra save lane to be close to it in the photos.
It is made of resin, painted with air brush and painted by hand for the details. We have build a specific bracket to stand in every place on your pinball. You have just to unscrew a screw to mount your mod. You can connect your mod where a bulb is located under any plastic on your playfield. We give to you a specific bulb to connect the mod to the white GI network.

Note : The eyes of the Mortha Larva interact with the games due to the fact it is connected to the white GI network

You can order here : https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1338-pino-pinball-mods-shop/10246-mothra-larva-with-lights

Video :

Enjoy !

IMG_9508 (resized).JPG

IMG_9509 (resized).JPG

IMG_9529 (resized).JPG

I originally went with the “Abe Flips” plastic shooter lane fix for Godzilla. It did provide some improvement on reducing rattle during plunges. However, this full length, stainless steel replacement is even better. I got it from Chrome Candy. Highly recommend it…
I may not even need to install the playfield alignment brackets that I ordered now. Mine shipped with neither installed.
[quoted image]</blockquote

Where did you get the playfield alignment brackets?

Thanks for the insight. I followed the directions specific and was sure not to overtighten. That said I’m now questioning if I fully pushed in the wire to the contact. I’m going to give it another shot and see; will report back. Thanks!

It does require a firm push to fully get the connector in the receptacle on the power supply's board. Also, check to make sure that one of the two pins didn't get bent inside the receptacle. they're very short and it hasn't happened to my knowledge, but it could.

Hey All, looking to join the Zilla club soon as it's quite a cool game.

Are rumors confirmed for Stern doing another Pro run at the end of 2024?

Heard that rumor but don't think I ever had it confirmed...anyone have any inside connections to know if they are considering it?

Chris

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C23TMllPzPG/?igsh=cm10N25ycDllcTg2

Devinsupertramp can you manually lower the bldg using the knobs below the black rubber belt? All the way down that it should travel? Are those 2 aluminum knobs tight to the shafts with an allen key? Thinking maybe they or the belt slipped. What is the condition of the black belt? Are all the ribs in place on the inner side of the belt?

More questions...Looking on the left side of the building, when the machine has lowered it as far as it can. There should be a post on the left side that lifts the front gate to let the balls out of the roof. What is the distance between the top of that post and where it meets the side of the roof top gate? Can that top roof gate easily lift up?

Please help! I cannot start bridge multiball anymore, the bridge destruction will get to 100% destroyed per usual with the coil firing at each 25% as usual, but then there will be no rapid coil bridge firing sequence and the bridge out light will not be lit, hitting the ramps won't do anything, any tips?

Bit of a long shot. But typically you try to align the set-screw with the key (flat part) of the shaft (see attached image). It could be that the motor is slipping. Really the only thing I could se that is looking a little odd.

Skärmbild 2024-02-03 182107 (resized).png