San Jose, CA
Picked up my LE yesterday from a very nice seller.I was able to play his El Dorado and flip a card while picking up.I installed Diddys Tesla towers they look great and I enjoyed doing the installation.
(Topic ID: 300354)
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Quoted from Jamesays:Picked up my LE yesterday from a very nice seller.I was able to play his El Dorado and flip a card while picking up.I installed Diddys Tesla towers they look great and I enjoyed doing the installation.
Quoted from troon47:Despite changing out my coils and sleeves, I'm still getting weak flippers on my LE, especially the two left ones. Even at the beginning of games sometimes, I find myself wrestling with the machine, trying to muscle the ball to the top of the playfield. The loop and right ramp are almost impossible after about 15 minutes. During multiballs, most flipper hits dribble up weakly about halfway up the playfield. It kills my arms and I can only play a few minutes everyday. I can go to an arcade and play for 3 hours and it doesn't bother me. If I play my TSPP right after GZ, the flippers feel like their on steroids, with the ball rocketing effortlessly all over the game. So I'm thinking it HAS to be the game and not my average playing skills.
So I'm getting some serious frustration here. Do I need the cooling fans? EOS switch adjustment? Other?
Any suggestions on how to make my LE playable appreciated. Feel free to message me. Thanks.
I just recently got my LE and have the same issue,soft flippers.
Quoted from gumnut01:Or just get the one from Sleal16. Looks awesome. Very affordable and cheap postage to Oz as well. Comes in a cardboard box though rather than a velvet bag though [quoted image]
where can i find this Im searching with no luck
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Have a good question for the group.
Will be adding Pinwoofer kit, already have Pinmonks Flipper Cooling fans, adding BriteMods RGB flipper buttons, how can I tap into all these 12volts supplies easily? Many mods want to use the Ticket Header connection next to the coin door. Is there an easy splitter solution? What have other pinsiders done, thoughts here?
maybe a 4 way splitter
I love my Le but I have never seen such tight glass.I use the suction cup method to remove.
It also squeaks when someone walks by.Im afraid it could shatter anytime although the squeaks
are starting to die down pretty much.
Quoted from Puffdanny:These stock pro backbox speakers are terrible. Whats the suggested upgrade? And should I replace the sub too with a better one? Leave it? Or go external sub?
pinwoofer and a sub,my game could not sound better.Ask my neighbors or someone in a nearby town
Quoted from Puffdanny:So you have the pinwoofer kit. Speakers,Amp and sub. Not an external sub?
I apologize,I misspoke In Godzilla I have only added pinwoofers Do it yourself amp and an external polk sub.It sounds great and I didnt feel the need to upgrade the other speakers.
Quoted from Insanity199:Just got the call that my Godzilla Premium is ready to be shipped! Unfortunately we will be on Spring Break next week so I have to delay shipment a week. Dang kids and their desire to go to Universal Studios.
Leave it on the porch and pm me the address
Quoted from Noma2017:I was able to secure an LE NIB! Quick newbie question. I have set up the wifi and go to software update and it says “Version 0.80.0 installed. Up to Date”
Clearly that is not up to date. What am I missing?
go on stern website im at 0.93
My external sub is near the front of my machine when i see it in the morning light.I usually play lights off so I dont see my sub walking from the middle of the machine where i put it.I was wondering how it kept moving forward.Wood floors but Wow.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:New Bank godzilla... painted by hand. Almost fits... have to figure out how to trim and place him perfectly. Amazing results for $30
Mine seems different than what others used as it came with legs and a tail. Would make part of a great topper.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
16921FE7-6BC8-4208-9D11-5967B8253882 (resized).jpegC7FCEB52-FF1F-4F3C-BFAF-DFE343209B05 (resized).jpegQuoted from NightTrain:The best solution to stop a bridge plastic from breaking, is to install one little washer inside the coil sleeve of that mech. It will limit the movement just enough so it won’t hit the plastic anymore. Takes about 5 minutes to do.
do you happen to have a photo of that ?
Quoted from NightTrain:I’ve got my armor being sent out for powder now. Still can’t decide on a color for my premium. Anyone have any thoughts or pictures they’d like to share?
that green on pinball refinerys thread looks good
Quoted from NightTrain:I’ve got my armor being sent out for powder now. Still can’t decide on a color for my premium. Anyone have any thoughts or pictures they’d like to share?
91CF6F83-148B-4831-8C92-56FB8B79F9C6 (resized).jpegQuoted from tbaum:I can't find the color options on their site - got a link?
look on the thread here that says I will powdercoat your
Quoted from tbaum:I can't find the color options on their site - got a link?
Quoted from UnholySpectacle:Catching up on podcasts and Zach from TPN teased that the GZ topper is not just a flat piece of plastic. Basically teased that it will be released soon and is interactive in some way. Gird your wallets folks.
They will probably announce the mando topper 1st then godzilla then RUSH.sAYS THE GREAT CARNAC.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Just gotta wait, I am waiting patiently too.
Quoted from Gotfrogs:I ordered 1/10/22 and got my set on 4/7/22.
Quoted from spidey:Okay so I’m in for a long wait. I only ordered last week!
Quoted from gambit3113:Those that have received their Flamin' Frames speaker lights, when did you order? Just trying to gauge where the orders are now. I put in on 2/7.
if they didnt look so cool we all wouldnt have ordered them creating a Big workload for The supplier.I think once we see these we got to have them.
1 week later
1 week later
Quoted from blueberryjohnson:Yeah. I've changed the stops, sleeves, and keep doing the EOS adjustments. Been posting to this thread off and on for months about this stuff and am in no better place then when I started.
I'm over trying to tinker my way out of this so I'm glad to just spend money to increase the chances of stuff working. So I just want to buy whatever I can to hopefully get stuff working better.
Ordered the pinmonk fans too. Parting out new center spinner assembly as well (unfortunately, the only place the spinner bracket mount part #535-2550-00 exists is in the manual - Marco is looking into it). I'm tired of needing 7 rips for that shot in ebirah, let alone all the other lost value throughout the game of that shot not working well.
I have no doubt some people here would have the right tools, knowledge, skills, and parts to get my machine in tip top shape for less money and time than me. But none of them are here and I clearly can't. It's my only game. I just want to get past the hardware problems so I can finally own all of my drains. So I'd rather just start fresh with these two problematic areas and hope that it fixes things up. Even if I never get to learn what the particular issue was and increase my pin knowledge.
I feel for you man I have followed your posts.Send me a ticket and I will repair it for free
Quoted from TikiTilt:Do you have a picture of this in your machine? I wonder if it would fit to the right on the right ramp. Hedorah is the best!
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:I don't yet, but somebody else around here does... I don't remember whom...
I still need to get a hacksaw to get this on my machine.
Might be hayfarmer who posted a photo.scroll back it wasnt long ago.
Quoted from LeMansFan:Question for those of you who have had the game for a while. Yeah, I have it listed in my collection, it's paid for, but waiting on the distributor to send it.
Prior to Deadpool I'd never noticed flipper fade on any of my games or felt the need for the PinMonk fans. I heard that the magna grab was an issue for a while, that it was generating lots of heat and wasn't performing as expected after some play time. I think I'd read that they addressed this issue in code. So... is the magna grab heating issue still a concern? Are people experiencing flipper fade? Do I need to order flipper fans and a magnet fan? I just wish they weren't so darn expensive...
My magnet seems to be working fine,I had mushy flippers but just changed coil stops and sleeves and that worked out for me.
Quoted from Micahdell:The playfield glass on our machine is super tight, it's quite hard to slide in and out. Does anyone have any experience with this? Maybe some tips or tricks on how to make the glass easier to slide in and out? We have a TMNT Pro and no issues with the glass being tight slides in and out very nicely.
Mine started out so tight it squeaked when I walked by,after pulling the glass multiple times with suction cup it stopped squeaking and is easier to take off but still tight.
1 week later
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:I recently installed that mod along with the stainless steel bridge mod and they look super nice. The quality is good but a fair warning the bridge is a little challenging to install. It’s not terrible just a decent amount of work to replace the back part of the bridge. But I think it’s worth it and looks awesome!
edit* I love it when Pinside app takes random photos from my phone and posts them along with the ones I actually meant to post...
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image]
would the bridge look better if someone made a decal/sticker to give the bridge detail,Or as is.I like it too but was just thinking out loud.
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:I was reluctant about not having the plastics with the images on it. But after I installed the stainless steel bridge and you stand over the machine it looks really nice and blends right in with the rest of the metal near it and the ramps.
Personally, I really like it and I think it makes the game look better. There’s already a lot of plastic In this game as it is so the stainless stands out very nicely but it is not over bearing.
Here’s another picture… and if you are looking at these images on your phone. Do yourself a favor and look at them on your computer or at least an iPad. [quoted image]
matches Mecha pretty well.Im probably going to need the bridge.
1 week later
Quoted from troon47:Wondering if I can get some guidance on how to add a new table to my collection on my profile page. I see a place to move no longer owned games to "history", but nothing to click on to add new games. Thanks.
you have to add the game in the beginning and then your in
Quoted from solzerid:Just put in my order for a Premium machine! I'll soon own my first pin ever! Should get it in 2 to 6 weeks and already had two sleepless nights thinking about how I'm going to rearrange the room for it and stuff.
It will feel like waiting for Christmas,The night before it may be impossible to sleep.Enjoy
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Quoted from barakandl:Has anyone messed with how far the rotating spinner ramp turns. I think mine should be turned a bit more clockwise when stopped with the spinner ramp shot available. Ball gets hung up back there occasionally.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
right,it looks like it needs to rotate more.Sorry cant help on how
Quoted from awesome1:Hey - anyone else have Insider Connected not show gameplay after 0.97 update?
I got in only one game last night (2.4B) on new code after updating and I'm 100% sure I signed in, but when I checked my insider account today, it doesn't show any gameplay for me yesterday 6/23.
Hopefully just a onetime thing. I won't have a chance to play anymore until the weekend to check for sure.
I dont know you sure it wasnt 2,400.000 ? 
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from andre060:You'd want to get nut drivers and wrenches in the following sizes:
1/4"
5/16"
11/32"
3/8"
That will cover you for most parts on games. Also order a set of imperial unit Allen wrenches (also known as hex keys) - a standard set should have all the sizes you need.
and a medium and small philips screwdriver,magnetic screwdrivers and nut drivers if possible.Also a set of distributor wrenches and your pretty much set.
2 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from ExSquid:I have a PRE at home, I get rejected all the time if its not a straight shot into the building. Any slight shot to either side going in it comes back out.
Mines the same,took 3 tries yesterday to lock 1 ball
For an average player like me its been mentioned before but put it at 6.8 I had mine at 7.4 and couldnt get past 500 million .I broke down and got a digital level also mentioned in earlier posts,My scores nearly doubled.Its a different game.Get a digital level.
1 week later
Quoted from golfergordy:For my fix to prevent damage to the magna grab plastic below the bridge, I had a small piece of left over rubber pond liner (.020" thick) and cut a small circular piece that I glued onto the coil stop in June. My Prem was part of the May production run and has the shortened plastic, but the plastic still had a small nick from the bridge that I noticed in June, and haven't noticed any more damage to the plastic since my fix. I complained to Stern and they sent me 2-replacement plastics - I haven't yet installed the new plastic because I want to wait a few months longer to see if my coil stop fix works in the long run, which so far it has.
I wonder if the glued rubber onto the coil stop would also work in the flipper coils to prolong the life of the stops, which many people on this forum say should be replaced with non-Stern stops. I have noticed metal flakes on the cabinet floor beneath the flippers which is the sign that the stops are wearing out. I have already purchased replacement flipper coil stops from Pinball Life to have on hand when the stops require replacement. I think I'll install the glued rubber onto the flipper stops and see what happens, and post the result in a year or two when the results will be more meaningful.
I put a clear round dot you would use to keep cabinet doors quiet under the bridge and have played hundreds of games with no damage.You can find this and photos in previous posts by Hayfarmer
Quoted from Wade:OK, so I spent some time making numerous adjustments to try to make my Gz play better. After reading so many of the issues in this thread, it's changed my perspective, and spending a bunch of time dialing it in is just going to be required, apparently!
Things that helped:
Flippers Max Strength
Bend left ramp magnet side guide wider
Lower the pitch
I adjusted the level top to bottom, which has definitely made the game a lot easier, with very little downside. A lot of things now need readjusted though like the launch power and magnet settings, because the auto launch rarely sticks to the magnet for multiball.
Something has me baffled. I think I had the game too steep. Legs on the front and back were all the way in before. Now, with the bubble in the built in level in between the two lines, I had to adjust my back legs all the way down, and the front legs almost all the way up.
This doesn't seem right at all. Any ideas??
Possible reasons:
* Legs are different lengths? (never known this to be true on other games)
* Bubble level is WAY off (I used another so I think it's about right)
* Bubble level doesn't work the way I think it should/bubble shouldn't be in the middle
* Leg holes drilled grossly incorrect on either the front or rear?
Thanks,
Wade
Quoted from Wade:OK, so I spent some time making numerous adjustments to try to make my Gz play better. After reading so many of the issues in this thread, it's changed my perspective, and spending a bunch of time dialing it in is just going to be required, apparently!
Things that helped:
Flippers Max Strength
Bend left ramp magnet side guide wider
Lower the pitch
I adjusted the level top to bottom, which has definitely made the game a lot easier, with very little downside. A lot of things now need readjusted though like the launch power and magnet settings, because the auto launch rarely sticks to the magnet for multiball.
Something has me baffled. I think I had the game too steep. Legs on the front and back were all the way in before. Now, with the bubble in the built in level in between the two lines, I had to adjust my back legs all the way down, and the front legs almost all the way up.
This doesn't seem right at all. Any ideas??
Possible reasons:
* Legs are different lengths? (never known this to be true on other games)
* Bubble level is WAY off (I used another so I think it's about right)
* Bubble level doesn't work the way I think it should/bubble shouldn't be in the middle
* Leg holes drilled grossly incorrect on either the front or rear?
Thanks,
Wade
Quoted from KneeKickLou:Yeah I’ve noticed that on my new pro as well a really solid shot from the left flipper to the center spinner will come off the wall and SDTM. I’ll try to reduce left flipper power slightly and see how it helps.
I’ve tried my best to level that area but my good digital level won’t fit with the wire forms in the way.
remove the nut on the right ramp and move it so your level fits
Quoted from bloodonthepins:Could someone kindly share a photo of the Mecha shield ramp in the open position? I have a feeling mine isn't rotating far enough to the left and the ramp shoots to the left of the magnetic target on the Mecha toy. Thanks!
Here you are
03DD522E-B81A-4C05-AF1F-A5795176AB8B (resized).jpeg19D4C58E-3A4A-479D-8F89-86A8275FEE4B (resized).jpeg4CD6A878-2340-49A3-B460-68A18866214B (resized).jpeg537F216F-8609-416B-B2CB-7D0DC564CD33 (resized).jpeg8A8CC03E-6021-43A8-9E98-552A853DD03F (resized).jpeg 1 week later
Quoted from ChipScott:Question for those who have installed Stumblor's (Davey's) scoop sign.
Got it installed and it looks amazing and everything works perfectly fine.
Question is: there's an additional wire that can be used to link into the GI such that when GI goes off, the sign also goes off (or dims?, not sure). Anyway, sounds like this is an additional feature that can be implemented on this mod and I'm wondering if anyone has done this yet and if they prefer it to the sign being on all the time (or vice versa).
I like mine on all the time so I havent updated or tried to change anything.Not sure if I am missing anything.
Quoted from purbeast:Do you happen to have any kind of star post lights or anything like that?
I had that problem with my JP and it ended up being the wire that was going from the star post light was causing the switch to trigger because the light had rotated a little bit.
no its stock only added plastic protectors
CBF88926-5784-4B94-B652-75522422AEBC (resized).jpeg 1 week later
Quoted from Shadrac:Hi guys, I would like to edit a song on a Godzilla Pro with Pinball Browser. So I know PB well for having modified a lot of music on SAMs but never on Spike 2s. I had read somewhere that it was no longer possible on the latest Spikes, is that correct? I would like to put Fu Manchu's version for the GZ Multiball instead of the Blue Oyster Cult version. Thanks
pasted_image (resized).png 1 week later
Quoted from jkashani:There was a method that someone posted regarding lifting the playfield up level with the use of clamps on the side of the cabinet. I think they were harbor freight clamps. Anyone happen to know the size of the clamps?
yes please post this
3 weeks later
Quoted from Bohdi:What is THEE best level to level a pin? And within a reasonable price. I only have 3 pins and this title is the only one I've ever owned that has to really be dialed in. Thx in advance...
I think there are some posts for digital levels on Amazon in this thread
1 week later
2 weeks later
Quoted from reynolds531:I joined the GZ club today. I picked up a premium from the local shipping depot and........a big tear in the lower part of the box. There is a five inch tear along with a few smaller ones on the right side of the cabinet. It is right where the bug's wing enters its body. I initially refused shipment and called Tilt Amusements. Troy said he would need to refund my money and I would have to wait for the next available machine. That could be another six to nine months. The other option was to accept the machine, send Tilt some photos of the damage and they would ship me a new cabinet side decal. If nothing else I can hold onto the new decal if I ever sell the GZ. I opted to keep the machine. I can't wait to get it set up and going. That said, what do you folks think? Keep or return?
[quoted image][quoted image]
I hope you get one I have been waiting months .
Sure you can add speakers and it will sound better but the amp makes all the difference in the World.I paid 10k and up for my machines and its worth 400 bucks to have the tried and true Pinwoofer kits in all of them.comes with everything in 1 box and support other companies wish they had.
1 week later
Quoted from Fremen:I recently received my speaker light kit from Doug. Since I ordered it in June when I got my premium, I missed out on getting the Tokyo skyline cutout.
I was hoping there was a way I could still get something similar without asking Doug, the busiest guy on the planet.
Is there anyone making and selling 3D printed versions I can use? Or is there a template out there to make your own foam cutout?
Thanx!
Just order from Doug.This will ship Fast most likely.
2 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from acedanger:Tried scrubbing through all the posts please excuse me but what are the optimal feature settings for Upper Flipper, Trough, Eject Etc. Also what seems to be the best pitch for this pin as well as any flipper adjustments (droopy no droopy)TIA!! Loving the game so far!!
my pitch is at 7.0,working great or I would go 6.8
2 weeks later
Quoted from jackd104:I seem to be the only one that had problems with the washer solution. When I lifted the pf, the washer sometimes went sideways and got stuck, then the plunger couldn’t go down far enough to collapse the bridge. I ended up putting two little furniture bubble things on the plastic where the bridge hits and it’s been good for hundreds of games. [quoted image]
same here lasted a year so far
1 week later
Quoted from kool1:I still have a JP topper on order that hasn't shipped. Not sure what is happening.
Excited to see what they do with GZ for sure. I definitely can't see spending $2000 on a Stern topper.
My Spiderman took about 6 weeks and Maiden about the same.
1 week later
Quoted from Bohdi:Perfect, thanks. I'll redo it here tomorrow. So, it should automatically download when the game is turned on? That's how it worked on IMDN
Game off insert USB
power up open coin door and hit select then select again.close door
load .after it loads and says succesfull remove usb and power off and on,Done
Quoted from math08:Just had a long knock down drag out call with the dealer. At first I spoke to the owners son who said "well, I don't know why the owner told you February. Its up to Stern and we are now told May-June, but if you want you money back, no problem, we have others that will take you place." He then puts on the owner who says that the Factory has my money, and he will keep 10% because I am cancelling prior to the first week of April, which is when we have a written agreement that I would get a full refund if they don't deliver. I say, but you son just told me my delivery would not be until May June. Clearly this is after April, and he also said you have other buyers who would take my place so not problem. Owner says, "I am the owner, he is not, and he is wrong. Then he goes on to say "you are just too much trouble. I will give you a full refund." The then hangs up. Wow, what drama.
pasted_image (resized).png 1 week later
Quoted from math08:I removed the washer, placed a Scotch Bumper on the magnetic spinner and everything works great. The bridge now stays open, and nothing hits the plastic.
mines been working great and plastic is fine after 1 1/2 years with the Dot
Quoted from Sheev_Palpatine:I installed a fidelity speaker upgrade on my machine. with the burning city scape light mod and now the upgraded speakers the back of the speaker touches the metal box ( power supply i believe ) when the speaker panel is raised into place. has anyone ran into this and is this something to be concerned about?
Did You remove the small clear spacers,it may or may not help
1 week later
Quoted from pbjksb:I unpacked GZ premium last week and have not played one game yet because I am waiting on playfield protector, which should arrive next week.
As I was checking out the game, noticed Mechagodzilla right fingers are hitting and positioned lower the playfield plastic.
This may cause some issue with movement of mechagodzilla ramp as it rotates or damage the mechagodzilla’s fingers.
I checked out some photos from pinside and stern and the right arm is positioned much higher than playfield plastic. I posted one of these photos with arm higher than playfield plastic.
I tried to bend the arm but since it’s made out of rubber, it just go back to original position. I am NOT going to use heat gun to bend the arm. This is a NIB.
Planning to contact Stern or my distributor next week and see what they say.
Anyone else had this issue?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I am sorry,I stopped on You have had the Game for a week and havent played it.Thats Patience My Friend.
Quoted from Pinball-Cruiser:Hello, I know people’s thoughts on the value of mods can vary, but does anyone think the Stumblor Tokyo Neon sign mod is not worth $221 USD? Seems pricey for such a small item.
Its a cool Mod,Its worth it to me.
I don't see a video anywhere of him programming the sign? Have a link? maybe i'm looking in the wrong spot. I'd really like to know how to adjust better</blockquot
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/godzilla-tokyo-neon-sign-mod#post-6948656 go to key posts for info
Quoted from GCS2000:Thanks I am just confused when looking around at the options and what should actually be gotten (Myth even has a bunch of options as well)
Can anyone explain what is different between Doug's kit and Myth's kit?
Thanks.Yeah I get the vibe that pricing on this game in the used market (unless someone is desperate for cash) isn't going to change much for some time. That is unless the pin market comes back down to reality.
I would probably hope to find a decent used machine within a few hours of me to avoid shipping fees and I am not a NIB guy in any form. I had my one NIB experience for the first time last week in 20 years of owning games and I was like ehh ok no big deal to me at all. It was neat but that was it. Will have another NIB experience in a few months when my wife gets her Scooby.
Have You tried a topic search in this thread.
Quoted from GCS2000:My guess is if Stern is going to keep making (and as you said why not) that their price will stay in the upper 9s or more. That means used prices are going down either.
Granted no one can see the future. Pin prices are just nuts in general.
If You know You are going to buy Godzilla NIB order Your lights now.If You buy used buy one that already has the light kit or order now so the kit will be in progress while You look around. 
Quoted from arzoo:Both kits are very similar in build quality, features, and look. People who buy Doug's kits are super faithful and will defend them/him to the death, it's almost like belonging to a cult lol! I believe Myth's offering (usually) has a shorter delivery time and is less expensive, but other than that, either one is an excellent choice.
its the products quality many are Happy about from Doug.
1 week later
Quoted from DugFreez:Can you post a better pic of how your ground wire is attached?
It looks like you have it on the bottom left nut and that it may be pointed downward. If that is the case....it may be causing tension when you go to close the panel.
Myth instructs to attach it to the bottom right nut and shows that the wire connector should be pointed sideways saying: Install the washer and then the ground wire and nut on the back right stand-off. Tighten slightly. When this nut is fully tightened make sure the ground wire is in the orientation shown above.
From experience, I know what may be causing a panel closing issue can be hard to pinpoint and many people think the tension is coming from one thing when it is actually something completely different, that they are overlooking....and to me, from that picture, it looks like it might be that ground wire that appears to be attached in the wrong place and in the wrong orientation.
....just trying to help,
Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)[quoted image]
This and also might need to take out those clear spacers if You havent.
Quoted from Pinfidel:Thanks James.
Yeah, I didn't have the spacers in there. But the way this is hitting it, that little gap wouldn't have mattered.
2nd picture shows how far away the Door is from closing. It's not even close.
I don't think I can move that connector back either. I'm sure there's wires underneath that connect to it, although I haven't been able to check, because the door won't stay closed.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Is the speaker adapter too thick,Would love to hear from others who actually have this setup.
3 weeks later
Quoted from JustEverett:Hoping for some direction, as I haven’t seen anything quite like this. Initially, the issue was just I kept hearing the game make a few popping noises through the speakers (just like when the game is booting up but more frequently). I thought maybe there was a loose connection or grounding issue.
Then in the middle of a game the flippers went dead, all gi on the PF went black, sound stayed playing but the screen froze.
I rebooted the game and everything worked fine. After 3-4 times of this happening and with increasing frequency to the point I knew it was going to happen every game, the game would no longer properly boot.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I will start by admitting I dont know shit from wild honey but this sounds similar to the new machines coming out where You hear Clicks/pops when powering up.PDB board problem where its shutting itself down because capacitors cant handle it.I may not be correct but it may be in this direction.
1 week later
Quoted from kool1:Pass for me though it is nice. I guess they are moving upscale. I guess they thought Stern was going to do a $2000 GZ topper.
Ya.. I made an exception for Rush topper. I probably should stop now.
it didnt help in the thread where people were complaining about waiting too long some offered the solution to just raise Your prices.Charge more make less.Thanks for that.
Quoted from Flexin:I’m sticking with what I have here. Was all ready to throw my money at it but how disappointing. I got this one and once I get the signs, removed the back yellow piece to see the back wall. I’m good for now…. This could have been an epic topper to match the level of this game…. But now it goes down as a disappointment of the same scale…
[quoted image]
I would center that yellow sign behind Your topper and see how it looks just for fun.Maybe put a light on it.
Quoted from AMartin56:This is the latest mock up of my topper attempt.
The white background is just for the photo. I will likely just leave blank wall behind it rather than attempt to come up with some sort of cityscape. And I'll light the figures with USB spotlights from Amazon.
About $175 for for the sign. About $110 for the figures and $15 for a black shelf from Amazon. I had screws, black paint and scrap wood lying around. Spotlights were like $10
If I want a custom hurry up mode I'll pay a prostitute a couple of hundred dollars to cradle my pinballs while I'm playing.
So all in about $400 less than Stern's official topper.[quoted image]
so does this sign only plug into the wall ??
Quoted from AMartin56:I haven't finished it yet but it's USB so I assume I could draw power from the CPU board. But I haven't confirmed this.
correct ,thanks.Got 1 delivered today.If a better 1 comes out later Im not out much.
21F41E89-BC41-49C8-8E5E-A8D9880E9B71 (resized).jpegQuoted from tgarrett09:How did you mount that? I have the same sign and might 3d print something to use the topper holes in the backbox.
I just used double sided tape super sticky along the bottom edge.was thinking of glueing L brackets to the topper and double tape to the machine if this doesnt hold.
Quoted from tedwasright:Anyone have the 1.03 code? I'd appreciate it. I'm there now. Haven't updated since then and I'm happy staying here for a long time. PM if it's easier. I will buy you a beer. Or coffee. But only coffee-flavored coffee. And no craft beer. Just a regular lager. Domestic.
BTW- How do you revert to an old code? Say I installed a newer version by accident, how would I go about putting 1.03 or any other back in the machine?
Quoted from tedwasright:Anyone have the 1.03 code? I'd appreciate it. I'm there now. Haven't updated since then and I'm happy staying here for a long time. PM if it's easier. I will buy you a beer. Or coffee. But only coffee-flavored coffee. And no craft beer. Just a regular lager. Domestic.
BTW- How do you revert to an old code? Say I installed a newer version by accident, how would I go about putting 1.03 or any other back in the machine?
I have 1.03 and 1.04 let me see if I can post them You can download onto USB and upload to Your Machine
Quoted from BriannaWu:I know the topper is overpriced and underdeveloped.
I don’t care. Godzilla is my favorite game in my collection, and I will pimp it out. Pinside said the same thing about the TMNT topper and I have never had a second of regret about it.
Y’all are entitled to your opinion, but my God - the nonstop complaining on Pinside about everything the industry does. Halloween QC, GTF, the Mando topper price, and don’t even get me started on how toxic the conversation was on the the JB 60th SLE. It’s exhausting to be around. It’s like Star Wars “fans” that do nothing but critique new Star Wars.
I cant even look at the monitor during game play much less the topper.Enjoy thats what its about.
Quoted from GCS2000:I grabbed this sign as my topper as well. Looks good and does the job for a lot less $$. One thing I noticed is that it seems quite bright. Anyone have a suggestion on how to maybe dim it a little bit. Mine is plugged into the service outlet with a phone charger block. Works just fine and goes off and on with the game. I did have to remove the power button adapter they included otherwise it would only come on when you pressed that button.
Only took 2 days to get to me via DHL as well so super fast shipping.
I just removed the
power adapter and plugged into USB ,powers off and on with the machine.
4690B293-BAEF-4CB2-ABED-39B7CF4F508D (resized).jpegQuoted from smoore3:On a Pro, I have an issue with my left slingshot where it fires at random during gameplay. There are a few hundred plays on the machine, and this just started happening all of a sudden. At first I thought it might be vibration related either during nudging or caused by the shaker motor, but it is happening at random even when I am cradling the ball on a flipper.
Any thoughts on how to troubleshoot?
Quoted from Jamesays:check keypost #3567
did this help solve your issue ? simple adjustment?
Quoted from smoore3:Going to run through that test this evening yet, and will update. Much appreciation for the quick help, and tieing it back to that keypost, I had been looking all over using slingshot as key word.
probably just need to adjust a leaf switch
Quoted from Sorokyl:Eh. I don't like it any better in person. Will definitely get rid of it in a year or two. Maybe I'm just not a topper guy. Also after 18 months, couldn't they have waited a few more weeks til the code was ready to play the new mode? That would have made the first impression a little better.
One thing I hadn't seen yet is a pic of the topper with the flamin frames speaker light kit. They kinda clash, the red flames with the yellow orange flames on the topper. And I think yellow/orange flames are better and I didn't realize I would prefer that on the speaker light kit so thanks shitty topper for making me like my speaker light kit less. I know some people aren't as picky aesthetically, but damn I feel like this point alone might be enough to make me not want the topper even without all the other shit.
[quoted image]
This is Your Lucky Day ,I will Bail you out on this 1 PM me for payment and shipping Info.Thanks Dude.
Quoted from jbigdoggf:Thanks, really dumb question …. I do kids and stuff Al the time but have never paid much attention to back glass. Can you remove the existing art and replace with new one ? Or how does the plastic stay stable / flat ?
You buy a piece of glass from a local glass shop and plastic edges from pinball shop and put it together.glass costs about 20 bucks .
Keep your origional and set aside so You can re use at will.
Quoted from Markharris2000:The glass is simple plate (size: 26 x 16-1/2 x 1/8 ), and doesn't even need to be the expensive lead-free type. You'll see that the translite artwork is a thick piece of flexible media held in place by the edge plastic channels alone. If you want to just re-use the factory glass and plastic, it takes 5 minutes to carefully swap, or you can buy a new piece of plate and a set of plastic channels for about $35 all in.
easy stuff.If You are replacing a translite You can replace only the film,If its a Backglass You need a new piece of glass (no bug) and plastic trim.
Quoted from BKPitmaster:I asked him about it and he said it’s not true and any rumors about him making one were made up.
Davey has His Hands full with other projects,No need to Bury Himself.All work and no play wont work for a Man with a Family.
1 week later
Quoted from Salami_Inferno:Does that topper on Etsy get power from the machine, or does it need an external power source?
Plugs into USB,I will sell You Mine for 160 since I have a Stern Topper Coming Pick up in West San Jose
Quoted from Rensh:Several weeks old and now a node 10 board failure . As you can see in the picture it’s a smoked board.
Distributor is taking care of it, no worries there, good service there. Just wondering what caused it. Just bad luck or …?
Have checked the following
48VDC OK
Stepper motor can be moved by hand without excessive force
The stepper is fed via 4 wires of which 2 each form a pair. Resistance red blue pair is approx 9Ohm and of black green 9Ohm as well. No idea if this value is OK but for sure not a short.
Switches look fine and don’t think a broken switch can cause this.
Did see that the connector of the steppermotor was not fully inserted on the header. Perhaps came loose during transport? Could a loose stepper motor connector cause this? Hope so as this would mean a new board would solve it. Will than also secure with a dot hot glue this connector to make sure it doesn’t happen again.
Anybody an idea?
[quoted image][quoted image]
That looks just like the Rush node 10 problems https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rush-node-board-10-issues-and-non-issues-list#post-7330957
Quoted from j_m_:waiting for my godzilla premium is getting more difficult with these arriving in the post today
all original Japanese theatre posters
[quoted image]godzilla vs destroyah
[quoted image]godzilla vs megaguirus
[quoted image]
and a huge B1 sized ohrai godzilla. this one is definitely getting framed and positioned near my game when it arrives
Those are some of the Best I have seen.
1 week later
Quoted from Salami_Inferno:From where?
You still need a splitter ?From Doug if You need to order.See the photo in Dougs instructions to pull power right side bottom corner of Backbox,remove the the metal cover and plug in to cable
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from WillM:Been waiting to see the Mod the Topper pics roll in, or even if the pro mod companies put out something. Yours: Very nice adds - and also good to get some perspective on the shadow projection on the ceiling/ wall.
Would be interested in where you sourced those pieces. Kindly post here or PM me
Thanks for sharing
I would like to try some of those topper Mods as well.
Quoted from zahner:I have been collecting since 1996 and I just picked up my first Stern pinball - a Godzilla Pro. I have a couple of questions. I for the life of me cannot get the sling plastics off. The upper bolt appears to be bigger that the hole on the plastic. It spins around, but dang, it does not want to come up. Thoughts? Also, I am not familiar with the menu and I am having trouble setting it up to reward extra balls. Any guidance there would be appreciated. Finally, I am not finding an assembly diagram for the door. I want to switch out the coin buttons, and I think I know how to approach it, but since there is no rush, I thought I'd ask before I just start going with my intuition. Thanks!
Maybe find a video on You tube ?
1 week later
Quoted from Rolsen99:This morning I installed speaker LEDs and a Shaker on my premium, both from pinball life. When I booted up the machine, the LEDs came on, but like a dummy, I didn’t have the balls installed. As soon as it started searching for balls, the machine shut off. Unfortunately, it will not turn back on.
I have tried unplugging it. I uninstalled the mods. I also checked the fuse behind the back glass. Not sure if there are other fuses.
Any thoughts? The machine is only a few weeks old, delivered NIB. Thanks!
try unplugging the shaker
Quoted from Rolsen99:It just came back on. Maybe I’ll contain Pinball Life to see if maybe I have a bad shaker??
maybe take the cover off the shaker and check that the wires arent messed up and check that you plugged into the correct place.
Quoted from RandomFocus:Hi fellow Godzilla Pro fans/Owners, got a NIB GZ Pro a few weeks ago fired it up and it freezes after about 2-3 minutes. Stern sent replacement PSU and PDB over the past couple of weeks which I replaced and still same issue. Multiple clicks on boot 20+, never heard PSU fan come on (can anyone on this board confirm if PSU fan is supposed to spin up on startup?). Please let me know if anyone has experienced this freeze issue and what the cause may be. Sometimes the game is stable enough to run diagnostics and none of the node boards comeback with any errors so I am stumped.
the fan will push air out the top when it hits a set temp
1 month later
Quoted from PinPaul76:I have a problem with the ball guides digging into the flipper rubbers (I'm using Titan's). There's a gouge mark where they make contact with the flipper in the up position that seems to cause the ball to "stick" at times. At first I thought it was spin. Anyone else have this issue and might have fixed it. Thanks!
Do you have a photo of this area on Yours
1 month later
would any Godzilla Owners please go to the node board issues thread and report.Trying get a count.
Issueshttps://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rush-node-board-10-issues-and-non-issues-list/page/18#post-7807121
Quoted from Acronymicon:I am determined to join this club this week, but I was hoping for a little advice.
Have the option for a NIB pro for 7k or a "freight damaged" Premium for 8.8 The damage is a small scratch on the LCD screen, and the shooter not making good contact with the ball so the "playfield brackets are a little off" but the corners are square.
Im pretty handy, but have limited experiece with newer games. It sounds like it took a fall? The art is ok.
WWYD?
Can You play it and inspect it ?Do You have a photo of the damage?
Quoted from Acronymicon:I can play once I get there, but its a 6 hour drive lol.
I didnt ask for a pic because a scratched screen i can easily replace, and the art is ok.
What will it cost to replace the screen ? add to the 8800 and You can Buy one without damage.Maybe compare prices on a lightly used dialed in one.Just thinking.If everything is in good order the price seems fair.Before I do a 6 hour 1 way ? drive I would want some photos
Quoted from BrokenChair:Thank you for the feedback I’m going to go with Deadpool pro I think but I won’t be able to get it for Atleast 6 months-year
Family shot it down cause I bought 5 pins in 10 months ;
Such a shame they won’t let me get another till a while sigh
You got the fever
pasted_image (resized).png 2 weeks later
Quoted from Desmodromic:New code is out for Thanksgiving as part of a 22-machine code drop, v1.08.0. I was hoping (although topper owners might not ) that the next update would include the KOTM challenge mode for us non-topper folks but it does not. Mostly backend stuff.
V1.08.0 - November 14th, 2023
=============================
- Game Mode Menu - has now been integrated into Insider Connected login screens.
- Adjustments - fixed a few names that refer to "ESCAPE NUBLAR" instead of "KOTM TIME ATTACK"
- System - Updated to V3.52.0 on OS: V2.7.0
- Updated to nodeboard firmware/protocol v1.14.0
- Conagent v1.0.14
- Updated Pricing Table:
Norway 1 - 1/10 NKr.
Norway 2 - 1/10 NKr, 3/20NKr.
Norway 3 - 1/20 NKr.
Norway 4 - 1/20 NKr, 3/40 NKr.
Norway 5 - 1/5 NKr.
Factory Default for Norway is Norway 1 - 1/10 NKr.
Sweden 1 - 1/10 SKr, 2/15 SKr, 3/20 SKr.
Sweden 2 - 1/5 SKr.
Sweden 3 - 1/10 SKr.
Sweden 4 - 1/20 SKr.
Sweden 5 - 1/10 SKr, 3/20 SKr.
Factory Default for Sweden is Sweden 3 - 1/10 SKr.
Denmark 1 - 1/3 DKr, 2/5 DKr.
Denmark 2 - 1/2 DKr, 2/4 DKr, 3/5 DKr, 4/7 DKr, 5/9 DKr, 7/10 DKr.
Denmark 3 - 1/5 DKr.
Denmark 4 - 1/10 DKr.
Denmark 5 - 1/20 DKr.
Denmark 6 - 1/10 DKr., 3/20 DKr.
Factory Default for Denmark is is Denmark 4 - 1/10 DKr.
- Moved FREE PLAY and GAME PRICING adjustments to the beginning of the Standard Adjustments list.
- Update AD_ALLOW_FORCE_ENDGAME default to ALWAYS (from FREEPLAY ONLY)
- If Home Team menu is present, a popup window will make you confirm a
game start when no user was selected.
- Various behind the scenes improvements for correctness and performance.
So pretty much a nothing ?
1 week later
Quoted from tscottn:congrats! Mine will be here this Tuesday, however my wife is out of town until next Saturday and she made me promise not to even set it up until she comes back.. ugh. its gonna be a long week!
Thats a tough 1.Opening and setting up together will Be great.Or you put it back in the box on Friday 
1 week later
Quoted from AMartin56:Stern quality control is really non-existent right now and it's the primary reason I won't buy NIB anymore. Let someone else work the kinks out. My Feb '23 build GZ wasn't perfect or terrible but you'd need two hands and a foot to count all the defects in my May '23 JP.
And apparently even buying a Pro won't save you from cheap molex connectors and bad soldering. We're still running 30 year old Bally Williams games today but I'm not sure if these Sterns will last as long. It's a shame.
Regarding GZ Pro vs Premium if Pro had the Mechagodzilla spinning ramp it would probably be perfect. I like the building on my Premium but it has required a bit of work to keep it out of trouble mechanically and may eventually just get disabled.
I would trade for a pro before I would permanently disable the building.Plus cash back.Actually I would do the fix it required or it would drive Me Crazy.A short drive perhaps.
1 week later
Quoted from bwalter:Okay, thank you. Now that I read his comment (and most critically, a couple of the more thoughtful replies) it makes sense: the balls drain SDTM [and relaunch automatically] to give the building mech time to get back into position to prevent jams and ultimately, damage to the mech, that could be caused by shots into the not-yet-aligned building entrance & ramp exits.
Definitely don't want to damage the mech, but it does genuinely feel... a little off... for such a cool MB event to start by intentionally draining all the balls.
Mine hit the left flipper almost every time.
Quoted from kangaroobbq:Noob question, I turned my machine on today and have no sound. I’ve got a pinwoofer amp, the light isn’t coming on so guessing no power. Everything seems to be connected ok. Also when a ball drains it’s not registering and doing a ball search. Any tips/idea’s would be greatly appreciated thanks.
is the power light on on the pinwoofer sound board in the backbox
1 week later
Im having the ball get stuck here far too often.I thought it was hanging up on my zilla so I removed it and its still happening.any suggestions would be appreciated.
22054F70-EB70-460C-AF13-8360B1AE7189 (resized).jpeg82B98CEA-7520-46B4-8870-D3939805CB99 (resized).jpeg9DE3F33E-BF2C-40D4-A3CF-17B5FDE28212 (resized).jpegFA180FF1-775C-48CF-852F-FA9EA2EF4422 (resized).jpegQuoted from RA77:I had the same thing happen today.
Also sometimes I get rejects from this lane when building in a certain position, 1/2 way down I think ?
Is the rejects normal ?
[quoted image]
I may be wrong but I think the switch arm needs to be bent a little lower to have that gate work right.It worked for me.No reject issue here that I have noticed.
Quoted from BrokenChair:Thank you
So the plastic bumper is going to go there anyways do you recommend me using the steel piece or just use the regular stock Stern piece if you were me
Here’s what I’m working with now. Lol.
[quoted image]
I guess I could tell Where it hits when I install the new bridge and move it down never thought of that I’m not very smart…
yes,just push the bridge down and see exactly where it hits.If yours is already broken and you already have the new piece I would put it on.
Quoted from CapeCodPin:Lifted my Premium playfield today to start a few mods and found this little metal ball rolling around the bottom of the cabinet near the head end? Seems to have a small indentation, so hollow maybe? Any ideas where this might be missing?
[quoted image]
looks like it may have fallen off a coil stop ?
Quoted from CapeCodPin:Can't see which one it might have come from, but then again, I'm new to this and rather clueless. I've been slowly doing mods this week (plastic protectors, rubbers, Neon sign mod, Power Bladez, under and back cabinet RGB lighting, and found it. I do have replacement coil stops and sleeves in my bag of tricks, though. Any tips on what I should look for?
look and see if the round piece sticking out is loose or dented up.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from CapeCodPin:I was going to as I have replacements, but they all appear solid. I honestly think I got lucky and received a pretty solid NIB. But to be sure, I haven't a clue what I don't know yet about these machines. I wiggle each coil stop and find no give in the posts....is that right?
yes.If you dont need to now wait awhile.Have You checked all flippers to see if that extra part fell off.Im curious where its from too.
A lot of us have extra nuts or screws loose in the cabinet direct from stern.
4 weeks later
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