(Topic ID: 215113)

Fixing/Replacing Stern Spike noisy PS fans (plug n play option now available)


By vireland

1 year ago



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    #1 1 year ago

    NOTE: Due to popular demand, a plug and play solution with the custom fan and correct thread-cutting screws if you don't want to bother with the DIY solution outlined in this original post below. This is available in my pinside store, Pin Monk (https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk) that I had to open to keep all these mods straight. International isn't working yet, so PM me for an international quote if you want these internationally. Otherwise, the DIY instructions to roll your own follow. Here's what the plug n play kit looks like:

    fan-kit-w-logo (resized).jpg

    NOTE: THIS FAN WILL NOT WORK ON WHOA NELLIE!, PABST CAN CRUSHER, PRIMUS OR ANY VERY EARLY PRO THAT HAS THE FAN ON THE FRONT OF THE POWER SUPPLY. IT IS FOR ALMOST ALL SPIKE 1 and 2 GAMES (THE LISTED MACHINES ON THE STORE SALE PAGE THAT HAVE THE FAN ON THE TOP OF THE POWER SUPPLY). IF YOU'RE NOT SURE USE THIS PICTURE TO COMPARE WITH THE POWER SUPPLY YOU HAVE:

    PowerSupplyComparison (resized).jpg
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    ORIGINAL DIY VERSION POST
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    NOISY Stern Spike 1/2 power supplies can be quieted SUBSTANTIALLY
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Stern insists on using CRAZY loud fans in their power supplies (34.6dB!) when much quieter ones (12.8dB) are available. I suggest picking up one of these from Digikey. It will be so quiet you can't hear it come on - a huge improvement over what Stern ships with. The CFM is less on this one, but I've never had a problem in a temperature-controlled location. If you have your pin outside in 90 degree heat, this is probably not a good idea. But for a house or temperature-controlled location, this is fine in my experience.

    Replacement part 40mm x 40mm x 20mm - use ONLY this size fan:
    https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/sunon-fans/HA40201V4-000U-999/259-1617-ND/3694184

    (If you're concerned about airflow, this one from mouser has 30% more airflow than the one above, but is 21dB instead of 12.8dB - still less than the Stern at 34dB: https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=MB40201V2-000U-A99 )

    You'll need to get 2 thread cutting screws (NOT sheet metal, but they can work - look for "thread cutting" screws specifically) because the holes on this are a little bigger and the stock screws will not work to put it back in.

    Stern used to have different power supplies in the Pro and Prem/LE, but it seems like they've settled on the Prem/LE type power supply for Pros, too, so this fan should work in all the recent Spike power supplies that have a small fan pointing up at the top edge of the power supply. If you have a larger fan in the middle of the PS on your older pro power supply, it's not nearly as loud, and you'll need to source a different fan.

    Before you start this POWER OFF the machine and UNPLUG IT from the back of the head.

    Here's the original Stern Fan:
    original-Stern-fan (resized).jpg

    Here's the newer, quieter fan:
    new-fan (resized).jpg

    This is the Stern Power Supply with the noisy fan:
    powersupplyjpg (resized).jpg

    Loosen (do not remove!) the two nuts on the left side of the power supply, then loosen the two on the right side of the power supply, then remove the three nuts in yellow below. Once you've done that the bottom cover will come forward and off:
    power-supply-screws (resized).jpg

    Once the lower cover is off, disconnect the two revealed connectors here:
    power-supply-connector (resized).jpg

    Remove the power supply by sliding it up and then pull it forward over the 4 loosened nuts. After removing the power supply, remove the two screws at the top end that hold the fan in:
    power-supply-end (resized).jpg

    Remove the 6 screws around the edge of the top side of the power supply and remove the lid, revealing the inside. The connector you need to disconnect is here pointed out here:
    open-power-supply (resized).jpg

    FAN KIT NOTE: To remove the existing fan, you need to free the wiring from the glob of white goo. Some are near the top of the blob and can be pulled out gently. Others you need to cut free. If you need to cut, CUT CAREFULLY and shallow, a little at the time and test-pull after each snip or two. Don't go crazy here. And watch that white connector to the left of the blob. If you disturb that, your machine may not turn on.

    DIY NOTE: If you don't want to splice this in, you can get the connector and contacts to crimp to make a factory-look with these Digikey parts:
    Housing (455-2266-ND)
    https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=455-2266-ND
    Crimp on connectors (455-1135-1-ND) :
    https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=455-1135-1-ND

    (Note the connector is 100% right, but I haven't tried the crimp on connectors yet - I believe they're the right ones, but waiting until I've done one where I add the connector to a naked fan might be a good idea)

    Slide out the old fan, splice the connector onto the new fan (keep the color orientation the same, use shrink tubing to cover each color and a slightly larger tubing to cover both those) and re-install. NOTE THAT YOU MUST INSTALL THE FAN WITH THE LABEL FACING THE OUTSIDE OF THE CASE (NOT THE CIRCUIT BOARD) so it will vent the power supply! You'll need two new Thread Cutting screws to attach the new fan since the holes are little larger. Sheet metal screws will do in a pinch, but try to get the thread creating ones. I used these ones from Ace Hardware:
    replacement-screw (resized).jpg

    The new fan is so quiet you can't tell when it comes on, so to test my work, I leave the backglass off and put a torn off piece of paper towel over the fan so I can tell that the fan is coming on (when it blows the paper towel piece off) to make sure I did everything right before putting the backglass back on and calling the job done. Just play the game to put the power supply to work and look up every now and then to see if the paper towel has blown off. Sometimes it can take 20 minutes or even more (if the room is cool/cold) for the fan to kick on.

    The amount of time before the power supply reaches the thermal threshold to turn on the fan (122 degrees) can vary WIDELY from machine to machine. Ghostbusters turns on very frequently. Games like KISS not as much. I haven't had a defective fan sent out yet, but it's why I recommend you ALWAYS do the paper towel test, even if it takes a long time before the fan comes on. That way you know everything's working as it should before you zip the machine back up.

    If you want more concrete temperature data to make sure the machine is still being sufficiently cooled, you can get a Thomas Traceable 4240 Dual Temp probe thermometer. Put one probe inside the power supply and the other probe near the top of the head. It will measure and save the minimum and max temp recorded by each probe. Super handy for making sure everything's working great now that the PS is essentially silent. You can pick them up used on Ebay for around $25 shipped. Highly recommended. They look like this:

    Thomas Traceable 4240 (resized).jpg

    All done with this project? Here's a couple other DIY guides I've made for newer Spike machines:

    Are LED lights popping out of your spotlights (not just on Spike machines!)? Make sure they never fall out again:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-led-bulbs-flashers-that-fall-out-of-spotlights#post-4402506

    Have a Stern machine from KISS or after with the softer wood cabinet? Reinforce it to prevent a splitting cab:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reinforcing-stern-cabinet-legs-step-by-step

    Are your Iron Maiden speakers crackling when you crank it up? Fix that with a cheap external amp:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-on-board-amp-with-external-amp-for-iron-maiden

    Is your Spike machine occasionally resetting during hectic play, torpedoing your high score runs? This guide to fixing it might be for you:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-stern-reboots-on-spike

    Do you have a WoZ ECLE and think it's too loud in a quiet room? Replace two fans and make it almost silent:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/quieting-down-a-woz-ecle-machine

    And here are some other plug and play mods you can just buy:
    Iron Maiden Light Tree Mod for colored mode lights:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/iron-maiden-colored-mode-lens-tree-mod

    Metallica F-U-E-L lights bracket:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-f-u-e-l-gauge-lens-bracket

    ColorDMD gasket for Stern machines with the angled speaker panel:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/colordmd-gasket-for-angled-stern-speaker-panels

    2 weeks later
    #2 1 year ago

    Thanks for the post, my fan will be replaced within a week.

    #3 1 year ago

    Awesome! Just brought home an Aerosmith and the fan is super loud. Great article. Thank you

    #4 1 year ago

    Awesome, I don`t own a Spike machine (yet?) but thank you for documenting this!

    #5 1 year ago

    That fan that Stern uses is so annoying to listen too.
    Can't figure why they haven't replaced it with a quieter one by now anyway...
    Whiney little thing....

    -1
    #6 1 year ago
    Quoted from CUJO:

    Can't figure why they haven't replaced it with a quieter one by now anyway...
    Whiney little thing....

    The cost

    #7 1 year ago

    Stern buys the power supplies from an outside
    vendor.

    http://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=RSP-500

    #8 1 year ago

    I guarantee they're buying them straight from China:

    https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Mean-Well-LED-Power-Supply-RSP_60753566828.html

    Says $20-30 per unit, and (having dealt with China manufacture extensively myself) in quantity I'm POSITIVE they could get the manufacturer to put a quieter fan in it. Their real cost may actually be less than $20/unit.

    Interesting that the RSP-500 is not UL listed, but many other meanwell items are.

    #9 1 year ago
    Quoted from vireland:

    Splitting this out from a Dialed In fan replacement thread since it's about Stern.
    Stern insists on using CRAZY loud fans in their power supplies (34dB!) when much quieter ones (12dB) are available. I suggest picking up one of these from Digikey. It will be so quiet you can't hear it come on - a huge improvement over what Stern ships with. The CFM is less on this one, but I've never had a problem in a temperature-controlled location. If you have your pin outside in 90 degree heat, this is probably not a good idea. But for a house or temperature-controlled location, this is fine in my experience.
    Replacement part:
    https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/sunon-fans/HA40201V4-000U-999/259-1617-ND/3694184
    You'll need to get 2 thread cutting screws (NOT sheet metal, but they can work - look for "thread cutting" screws specifically) because the holes on this are a little bigger and the stock screws will not work to put it back in.
    Stern used to have different power supplies in the Pro and Prem/LE, but it seems like they've settled on the Prem/LE type power supply for Pros, too, so this fan should work in all the recent Spike power supplies that have a small fan pointing up at the top edge of the power supply. If you have a larger fan in the middle of the PS on your older pro power supply, it's not nearly as loud, and you'll need to source a different fan.
    Before you start this POWER OFF the machine.
    Here's the original Stern Fan:

    Here's the newer, queter fan:

    This is the Stern Power Supply with the noisy fan:

    Loosen the two bottom nuts on the side, remove the two top nuts on the sides, then remove the bottom cover (3 nuts), then disconnect the two connectors here:

    After removing the power supply, remove the two screws at the top end that hold the fan in:

    Remove the 6 screws around the edge of the top side of the power supply and remove the lid, revealing the inside. The connector you need to disconnect is here pointed out here:

    Slide out the old fan, splice the connector onto the new fan (keep the color orientation the same, use shrink tubing to cover each color and a slightly larger tubing to cover both those) and re-install. Note that you MUST install the fan with the label facing the outside of the box so it will vent the power supply! You'll need two new Thread Cutting screws to attach the new fan since the holes are little larger. Sheet metal screws will do in a pinch, but try to get the thread creating ones. I used these ones from Ace Hardware:

    The new fan is so quiet you can't tell when it comes on, so to test my work, I leave the backglass off and put a torn off piece of paper towel over the fan so I can tell that the fan is coming on (when it blows the paper towel piece off) to make sure I did everything right before putting the backglass back on and calling the job done. Patience here is a must. Sometimes it can take 20 minutes or so for the fan to kick on. Just play the game and look up every now and then to see if the paper towel has blown off.

    Have you got any better pictures of how you spliced the connector and tube wrapped it?

    No hurry as going to order a fan and do this at some point.

    Thanks

    #10 1 year ago

    What is the difference in CFM? I would not install one of these that was less than the factory spec airflow.

    #11 1 year ago

    I've got (3) 24 Port Netgear POE switches in a rack, each with two micro fans in them and they are all quieter than one stern spike p/s.

    #12 1 year ago
    Quoted from kermit24:

    What is the difference in CFM? I would not install one of these that was less than the factory spec airflow.

    Well, you already know it's less because I said it was, so you won't be installing this. I have this running in 10 machines with zero problems, from KISS forward, so years of real-world testing. As I said in the OP, the reduced CFM isn't a problem if you have the machine in a temperature controlled environment.

    #13 1 year ago
    Quoted from Shapeshifter:

    Have you got any better pictures of how you spliced the connector and tube wrapped it?
    No hurry as going to order a fan and do this at some point.
    Thanks

    I didn't take pictures of that, sorry. Before this last one I documented, they had another fan with a red label that had the connector pre-installed and you just had to put an adapter on it and plug it in. But that fan is NLA. I've been looking for this fan with the connector already on it for a decent price but haven't found that yet. When I do, I'll post.

    Basically, you want to slide one large shrink tube on on end that covers the whole wire and leave that unshrunk, then put smaller tubes over the soldered connection of the splice of each lead and shrink those, then slide the bigger one over the two smaller ones and shrink that. You don't want the spliced leads touching each other when they have power, for obvious reasons.

    #14 1 year ago

    I notice that this fan is available at Digikey for immediate shipment, but it is marked as obsolete.
    Just curious, why not this fan instead: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/sunon-fans/HA40201V4-1000U-A99/259-1791-ND/6198729
    It is not marked as obsolete, same manufacturer, price, CFM (5.5) and size as the fan you listed, slightly quieter at 12.3 dB(A) vs. 12.8 dB(A), uses a bit less power at 380mW vs. 600mW.

    #15 1 year ago

    im thinking about doing this and am looking at this fan which runs 14$ and has a CFM of about 7

    amazon.com link »

    edit: wrong link

    #16 1 year ago
    Quoted from way2wyrd:

    im thinking about doing this and am looking at this fan which runs 14$ and has a CFM of about 17

    That fan is wider (60 vs. 40) and thicker (25 vs. 20) - have you measured to see if it will fit, and how would you mount it as the mounting holes would be at different points than on a 40mm fan?

    #17 1 year ago
    Quoted from RoyF:

    That fan is wider (60 vs. 40) and thicker (25 vs. 20) - have you measured to see if it will fit, and how would you mount it as the mounting holes would be at different points than on a 40mm fan

    edited above post

    #18 1 year ago
    Quoted from way2wyrd:

    im thinking about doing this and am looking at this fan which runs 14$ and has a CFM of about 17
    amazon.com link »

    19.3 dB isn't THAT quiet. If you're getting a larger fan like this you should be able to get somewhere in the 10-12Db range. You also need a 3 pin to 2 pin adapter to use that one (if the fan is even the right size).

    Is this for the older Stern power supplies for the Pros that have the big fan in the middle? If not, this is the wrong fan for the ones that have the fan on the end.

    #19 1 year ago
    Quoted from RoyF:

    I notice that this fan is available at Digikey for immediate shipment, but it is marked as obsolete.
    Just curious, why not this fan instead: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/sunon-fans/HA40201V4-1000U-A99/259-1791-ND/6198729
    It is not marked as obsolete, same manufacturer, price, CFM (5.5) and size as the fan you listed, slightly quieter at 12.3 dB(A) vs. 12.8 dB(A), uses a bit less power at 380mW vs. 600mW.

    It looks like this one is the newer replacement for the now-obsolete one I've been using. They obsolete fans like CRAZY.

    If you try this one instead, post how it goes and if all goes well, I'll update the OP with this newer version. The one listed in the OP isn't going out of stock anytime soon, they have plenty even though it's now-obsolete.

    #20 1 year ago
    Quoted from vireland:

    19.3 dB isn't THAT quiet.

    19.3 dB makes well under half the noise of 34 dB and probably won't be audible in a typical room.
    vireland have you compared the temperature inside the enclosure using the stock fan and your replacement that moves less air?

    #21 1 year ago
    Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

    19.3 dB makes well under half the noise of 34 dB and probably won't be audible in a typical room.
    vireland have you compared the temperature inside the enclosure using the stock fan and your replacement that moves less air?

    20dB gain is 10x more sound pressure and 4x perceived loudness. So, yeah, the 19.3 is better than 34dB, but is still too loud.

    I didn't stick a probe inside the power supply to get a numeric temp, but the fact that the temperature controlled fan (comes on when it's too hot inside) was only coming on intermittently tells me everything I need to know. If the CFM wasn't sufficient, the fan would never turn off, and even after this mod, it's off more than it's on.

    #22 1 year ago
    Quoted from vireland:

    I didn't take pictures of that, sorry. Before this last one I documented, they had another fan with a red label that had the connector pre-installed and you just had to put an adapter on it and plug it in. But that fan is NLA. I've been looking for this fan with the connector already on it for a decent price but haven't found that yet. When I do, I'll post.
    Basically, you want to slide one large shrink tube on on end that covers the whole wire and leave that unshrunk, then put smaller tubes over the soldered connection of the splice of each lead and shrink those, then slide the bigger one over the two smaller ones and shrink that. You don't want the spliced leads touching each other when they have power, for obvious reasons.

    Thanks - never had to shrink tubes before so will need to watch a tutorial!

    As for the fan - I have exact same in my KISS and it is so much better than the Stern one.

    #23 1 year ago
    Quoted from Shapeshifter:

    Thanks - never had to shrink tubes before so will need to watch a tutorial!
    As for the fan - I have exact same in my KISS and it is so much better than the Stern one.

    Alternately you can get the part number and order the connectors and the housing and make a new plug for the new fan. That would be the cleanest install, but I didn't have the part information for the OP. If anyone knows what they are, please share, I'll try it and then update the OP.

    #24 1 year ago

    Seems odd that there isn't a plug and play equivilent in a quieter fan. Is Stern's connector some kind of propriatary plug?

    #25 1 year ago
    Quoted from Sinestro:

    Seems odd that there isn't a plug and play equivilent in a quieter fan. Is Stern's connector some kind of propriatary plug?

    No, nothing special about it. The original red label Sunon was plug and play with a 3-2 adapter, but they discontinued it. I just need to find another with the connector already attached, that's all. Until then, I've been splicing them in.

    #26 1 year ago
    Quoted from vireland:

    No, nothing special about it. The original red label Sunon was plug and play with a 3-2 adapter, but they discontinued it. I just need to find another with the connector already attached, that's all. Until then, I've been splicing them in.

    I'll keep an eye on this thread. When you or someone else finds one that's plug and play, I'll be all over it.

    #27 1 year ago

    My plan is to use the 3D printed 40mm to 60 mm adapter, remove the fan from inside the power supply and power a 60 mm quiet fan from the 12V accessory board. So the fan will be on all the time. I also already removed the lower shroud from below the power supply to allow more air circulation and this, in addition to the fan mod mentioned above, hopefully will keep everything cool.

    #28 1 year ago
    Quoted from vireland:

    the fact that the temperature controlled fan (comes on when it's too hot inside) was only coming on intermittently tells me everything I need to know. If the CFM wasn't suffifient, the fan would never turn off, and even after this mod, it's off more than it's on.

    This. This is why I consider this mod safe to do on my machines, I had exactly the same thought.

    #29 1 year ago

    How did you determine the power supply turns on the fan at a specific temperature as opposed to after load x for time y or some other factor?

    Testing would be easy with an inside/outside thermometer. Put the outside sensor under the PS cover and play for an hour, recording the temps every five minutes.

    #30 1 year ago
    Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

    How did you determine the power supply turns on the fan at a specific temperature as opposed to after load x for time y or some other factor?
    Testing would be easy with an inside/outside thermometer. Put the outside sensor under the PS cover and play for an hour, recording the temps every five minutes.

    Because I can read a spec sheet?

    I know how to test for temp inside the case, but that would be stupid since the fan clearly works, and the fan control is temperature based according to the spec sheet for the RSP-500-48.

    The spec sheet clearly says the fan comes on when the case exceeds 122 degrees farenheit, then shuts back off once the temp goes down to 104 degrees or less. And if there's a runaway condition the power supply just shuts down. All of that's plenty good enough for me, but you're welcome to probe your power supply to your heart's content.

    The ONLY thing anyone HAS to test for is whether they installed the fan with the proper orientation, and that the fan comes on occasionally.

    #31 1 year ago

    One good thing (among many others) I can say about Houdini for sure..no whiny little fan!!! Quiet as a church mouse!
    I can keep it on while watching TV and not be disturbed.

    #32 1 year ago

    No disrespect meant to vireland' but I just want to show the doubters that this has been an issue and this fix has been done for a few years:

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-spike-cooling-mod-for-kiss-wwe

    I did this on my GoT and never had any issues.

    My new fan is on the way!

    #33 1 year ago

    I just ordered some parts so I can put vireland's mod in all my Spike games. I noticed the other fixes in the past but was never keen on modifying the power supply case or adding additional fans behind the speaker panel.

    -1
    #35 1 year ago

    Looks great, it's just the wrong fan. Part number says that one is 21dB, which is MUCH louder than the 12dB on in the OP.

    #36 1 year ago
    Quoted from tktlwyr:

    No disrespect meant to vireland' but I just want to show the doubters that this has been an issue and this fix has been done for a few years:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-spike-cooling-mod-for-kiss-wwe
    I did this on my GoT and never had any issues.
    My new fan is on the way!

    That backbox fan mod is a waste of time, IMO. Fix the problem at the source (the power supply) and if the power supply is over 122 degrees, the fan will just stay on longer. You can't hear it anymore once it's replaced, so who cares?

    #37 1 year ago
    Quoted from vireland:

    ...that one is 21dB, which is MUCH louder than the 12dB on in the OP.

    Specs say 10-15 dBA.

    Screenshot_20180511-113747_1.jpg

    #38 1 year ago
    Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

    Specs say 10-15 dBA.

    No the "specs" do not say that. The newegg AD says that. The listing company can write whatever they want in there. If you go to Digikey and look up the real specs of the fan part number in the picture (KDE1204PKV2), it says 21dB. NONE of the real Sunon specs have a 5dB RANGE. They give you the sound rating - ONE sound rating.

    https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/sunon-fans/KDE1204PKV2-MS.A.GN/259-1353-ND/1021202

    Aside from being very loud, it's also an obsolete fan.

    #39 1 year ago

    If by "very loud" you mean whisper quiet you're pretty close on the sound level.
    Jeff's also moves 3x more air than the one you suggest. If it fits it's a much better option.

    #40 1 year ago
    Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

    If by "very loud" you mean whisper quiet you're pretty close on the sound level.
    Jeff's also moves 3x more air than the one you suggest. If it fits it's a much better option.

    This advice from the person that thinks an ad is a spec sheet. And the CFM in that ADVERTISEMENT you keep referring to is NOT THE SPEC. The real CFM is only a little higher than the much-quieter one in the op. Like 2k CFM more - not the ridiculous 15k CFM in the advertisement.

    The ultra-quiet fan in the OP is the best choice for ANY temperature controlled environment. It moves plenty of air to keep the power supply cool. The ONLY time I wouldn't recommend it is if you're in a non-temp-controlled environment (i.e. outside, or no A/C) and it's hot anyway. Even then the fan would probably be enough, but I would err on the side of safety, so I wouldn't recommend it for THAT ONE APPLICATION. So, in that ONE CASE (hot environment) the 19dB fan would be better since it moves a little more air but is still quieter than the Stern one. But ONLY that one case.

    #41 1 year ago
    Quoted from vireland:

    That backbox fan mod is a waste of time, IMO. Fix the problem at the source (the power supply) and if the power supply is over 122 degrees, the fan will just stay on longer. You can't hear it anymore once it's replaced, so who cares?

    You obviously didn't read the entire thread which is a common problem on this forum. LOL It's even a thread you posted in.

    Start here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-spike-cooling-mod-for-kiss-wwe/page/2#post-3165228

    #42 1 year ago
    Quoted from tktlwyr:

    You obviously didn't read the entire thread which is a common problem on this forum. LOL It's even a thread you posted in.
    Start here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-spike-cooling-mod-for-kiss-wwe/page/2#post-3165228

    I remember the thread, and I know I posted in it, I guess I didn't remember the finer details of it.

    That was back when the Pros had the big fan in the front of the power supply. End result for Prem/LE was essentially the same as this post, just with a plug and play fan that's NLA. I'm still looking for one like I used in the OP with the connector already installed. Would make this upgrade way easier.

    #43 1 year ago

    It’s hard to find a quiet 40mm fan. I gave up and went with this approach instead (not my idea, but it works well):

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/guardians-of-the-galaxy-owners-thread/page/40#post-4395474

    #44 1 year ago
    Quoted from swampfire:

    It’s hard to find a quiet 40mm fan. I gave up and went with this approach instead (not my idea, but it works well):
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/guardians-of-the-galaxy-owners-thread/page/40#post-4395474

    That fan isn't 10db because the Stern power supply ONLY runs the fan at 12v speed (on/off, only), not lower 5v and 7.5v power to get them quieter. I'm not sure which size you went with, but the two smallest ones are 16.9dB and 20dB respectively, so substantially worse noise than the one in the OP here.

    Plus, most people want a factory look and the larger fan isn't it, so it might be a negative when you sell.

    #45 1 year ago
    Quoted from vireland:

    That fan isn't 10db because the Stern power supply ONLY runs the fan at 12v speed (on/off, only), not lower 5v and 7.5v power to get them quieter.

    I use an external power supply, so the Stern PSU voltage is irrelevant.

    Quoted from vireland:

    I'm not sure which size you went with,

    It's the one I linked to, 70mm. It's small enough to not cast a shadow on the translite. No modification of the original PSU required.

    Quoted from vireland:

    ...but the two smallest ones are 16.9dB and 20dB respectively, so substantially worse noise than the one in the OP here.

    That's at 12V. I use the inline resistor provided with the fan to reduce the voltage to 7.5V,. and the noise is under 10dB. You can't even tell that it's on unless you put your head right next to the translite.

    Quoted from vireland:

    Plus, most people want a factory look and the larger fan isn't it, so it might be a negative when you sell.

    I can remove my magnet-mounted fan in 10 seconds once the backbox is open, so that's not a problem. I don't know why someone would prefer the noisy factory fan, but I'd be happy to keep mine for my next pin.

    I went through the same thought process you've started here when I got my GOTLE about 2 years ago. I ended up with the 70mm Acoustifan because I couldn't find a cheap, quiet 40mm fan that provides the same airflow as the original.

    By opening your PSU and changing the fan to one with lower airflow, you're much more likely to have your Stern warranty revoked. I like solutions that don't require touching any of the original boards or modules.

    #46 1 year ago
    Quoted from swampfire:

    I use an external power supply,
    It's right there in the first link, 70mm. It's small enough to not cast a shadow on the translite. No modification of the original PSU required.
    That's at 12V. I use the inline resistor provided with the fan to reduce the voltage to 7.5V,. and the noise is under 10dB. You can't even tell that it's on unless you put your head right next to the translite.
    I can remove my magnet-mounted fan in 10 seconds once the backbox is open, so that's not a problem. I don't know why someone would prefer the noisy factory fan, but I'd be happy to keep mine for my next pin.

    It didn't click with me that you were using an external power supply plugged into the service plug. It seems like a waste to be pulling 115v only to convert it to 5v when the power supply already has 12v for the fan inside. But, yours is easier to undo, I'll give you that.

    #47 1 year ago
    Quoted from vireland:

    It seems like a waste to be pulling 115v only to convert it to 5v when the power supply already has 12v for the fan inside.

    Yeah, that's why I bought the one rated for 1A. I'm just very shy about touching Stern's stuff after their cabinet node board blew up on me when I tried to put a PWM board inline with my shaker motor (something that worked fine on SAM pins).

    #48 1 year ago
    Quoted from swampfire:

    Yeah, that's why I bought the one rated for 1A. I'm just very shy about touching Stern's stuff after their cabinet node board blew up on me when I tried to put a PWM board inline with my shaker motor (something that worked fine on SAM pins).

    Heh. Gomez wasn't kidding when he said the power budget on Spike is so tight adding a single mod runs the risk of killing it. Talk about crap system...

    I wasn't worried about the fan mod I did, though because it's pulling the same voltage as the stock super-loud fan, and everything happens pre-spike system. The output of the power supply is unchanged with this mod.

    #49 1 year ago

    One last thought on this topic. I am getting old, so a 4500 RPM fan hurts much more than a 2000 RPM fan running at the same noise rating. When someone puts their iPhone on speaker, I have to leave the room. It literally hurts.

    #50 1 year ago
    Quoted from swampfire:

    One last thought on this topic. I am getting old, so a 4500 RPM fan hurts much more than a 2000 RPM fan running at the same noise rating. When someone puts their iPhone on speaker, I have to leave the room. It literally hurts.

    Do you have a hearing aid? Usually people lose the upper frequencies when they age. It should be less annoying, not more as you get older, UNLESS you have a hearing aid.

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