Pirates of the Caribbean
Jersey Jack, 2018
Pirates of the Caribbean (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2018
Pirates of the Caribbean (LE)
Jersey Jack, 2018Quoted from LTG:Take a meter and check the transistor to see if it's shorted.
LTG : )
Testing MOSFETs is a bit more complicated but I'll give it a try. Continuous 12V to the motor even when I turn it off in settings, so it looks like a driver issue from the I/O board. Not sure it is even worth messing with as it seems like a lot of owners unplug the topper motor anyhow...but I'll probably ship it off to Barry anyhow.
Quoted from dts:Testing MOSFETs is a bit more complicated but I'll give it a try. Continuous 12V to the motor even when I turn it off in settings, so it looks like a driver issue from the I/O board. Not sure it is even worth messing with as it seems like a lot of owners unplug the topper motor anyhow...but I'll probably ship it off to Barry anyhow.
David, If you don't want the topper you can diffidently send it to me, I'll get it fixed and add it to my LE! 
Quoted from Mikespinball:David, If you don't want the topper you can diffidently send it to me, I'll get it fixed and add it to my LE!
You’re so talented, I bet you can build one yourself! Great to have the game back. This one goes in the permanent collection next to TZ!
Quoted from dts:You’re so talented, I bet you can build one yourself! Great to have the game back. This one goes in the permanent collection next to TZ!
Excellent! 
Third time's a charm.
My game has an intermittent issue in the Chapter Start starmap area. Seems the magnet doesn't always engage to fire the ball around. Once it stops, it typically doesn't work again during the subsequent games until restarted. Even when operating, appears to be labouring to move the ball the same way it should? Tested with a DMM and there's power at the magnet.
Oh, and my chest mod still doesn't work. Kind of given up on that one...
Quoted from LOTR_breath:Sorry if this has been asked before. Anyone know the best place to tap into a 12vdc source on POTC? I would like to add some 12v LED strips to the flipper area. I've been playing LZ a bunch and now when I walk over to POTC the flipper area seems extremely dark.
Thanks!
The ATX power supply 4 pin connector's yellow lead is 12v. The 4 pins of the connector are yellow, black, black, red. Some of them only have the yellow or the red side.
Hi all, just wanted to post about something I’m pretty proud to have thought of. I saw the bag end gate mod in hobbit and it made me think about the sdtm from the star map (mode select) shot. So, if you ever get cheap drains when the post drops, check this mod out. It’s been 100% for me and a friend so far. Of course nothing will be, but it’s much improved!!
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1305-trumpanche-mods/04977-gate-at-world-s-end-mod-for-jjp-potc
POTCLE and it won't power on. I have power to the game. Power on and I can hear the transformer hum. Open the backbox and it looks like there is 20v and 12v to the i/o pcb since those lights are on. No power to any of the 70v fuses. Both 701 and 702 show no power. Doesn't seem like there is power to ATX supply but I haven't opened the EMI panel to look in there. I checked all the connectors in both the lower cabinet and the upper and don't find anything loose. First time trying to figure out what is wrong on a JJP game with power. Couldn't find a trouble shooting guide for this. Any pointers on where to start?
Quoted from angus:POTCLE and it won't power on. I have power to the game. Power on and I can hear the transformer hum. Open the backbox and it looks like there is 20v and 12v to the i/o pcb since those lights are on. No power to any of the 70v fuses. Both 701 and 702 show no power. Doesn't seem like there is power to ATX supply but I haven't opened the EMI panel to look in there. I checked all the connectors in both the lower cabinet and the upper and don't find anything loose. First time trying to figure out what is wrong on a JJP game with power. Couldn't find a trouble shooting guide for this. Any pointers on where to start?
First try "jump starting" the PC - that is most likely the issue. If you end up getting random reboots or power failures the ATX supply might_ need replacement but that's not very common.
Hello, I have a problem with my fork under the trunk. I looked at the tutorials on the site and I straightened the fork so when the look is ready the ball goes into the trunk. On the other hand, the fork does not come down when the look is not activated. I have activated test mode 018 and the fork fits correctly. On the other hand, when I activate test mode 019, the fork does not lower again. The pallet of the white coil activates well. Question: is the yellow coil supposed to pull on the mechanism at the same time as the pallet of the white coil goes down? When I manually pull on the mechanism (blue arrow) there is a big metallic friction (orange circle). Is the mechanism supposed to come back without the help of the yellow coil? Thanks for your help
IMG_20210417_180527 (resized).jpgIMG_20210417_180601 (resized).jpgIMG_20210417_182956 (resized).jpgIMG_20210417_203042 (resized).jpgQuoted from Stef95:Hello, I have a problem with my fork under the trunk. I looked at the tutorials on the site and I straightened the fork so when the look is ready the ball goes into the trunk. On the other hand, the fork does not come down when the look is not activated. I have activated test mode 018 and the fork fits correctly. On the other hand, when I activate test mode 019, the fork does not lower again. The pallet of the white coil activates well. Question: is the yellow coil supposed to pull on the mechanism at the same time as the pallet of the white coil goes down? When I manually pull on the mechanism (blue arrow) there is a big metallic friction (orange circle). Is the mechanism supposed to come back without the help of the yellow coil? Thanks for your help
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Yes, it's a gravity retract. When the small coil activates and pulls the plate back that's holding the fork mech up, the forks are just supposed to drop down from gravity. If you hold the forks up (so they don't keep dropping), can you see the small coil working in coil test mode each time you pulse the small coil?
Quoted from PinMonk:Oui, c'est une rétractation par gravité. Lorsque la petite bobine s'active et tire la plaque qui maintient le mécanisme de fourche vers le haut, les fourches sont simplement censées tomber de la gravité. Si vous maintenez les fourches vers le haut (pour qu'elles ne continuent pas de tomber), pouvez-vous voir la petite bobine fonctionner en mode de test de bobine à chaque fois que vous impulsez la petite bobine?
It is great to know that the mechanism descends by gravity. Yes, the small white coil plate activates every time. I even tried to do the test with the platform up after looking and that's where the mechanism stops. There is a metallic friction between the mechanism and the pallet, but I have not found a setting to remove the two. I will go back up tomorrow and see if the friction is really coming from there or if something else is slowing down the mechanism. I will come back to tell you what it is. Thanks for your feedback
Screenshot_20210417_213606 (resized).jpgQuoted from Stef95:It is great to know that the mechanism descends by gravity. Yes, the small white coil plate activates every time. I even tried to do the test with the platform up after looking and that's where the mechanism stops. There is a metallic friction between the mechanism and the pallet, but I have not found a setting to remove the two. I will go back up tomorrow and see if the friction is really coming from there or if something else is slowing down the mechanism. I will come back to tell you what it is. Thanks for your feedback
[quoted image]
Check the topic index at the top of any page in this thread. There's a "TECH" entry that jumps to a post about this fix.
Hello, the post on page 46 did not correspond to my problem. This evoked a problem of maintaining the fork. Mine didn't want to come down. I took everything apart and I found the problem: there is a pin which maintains the axis in the yellow coil and this one C is offset. Suddenly the pin rubbed against the spool (see photo) I inserted the pin with pliers and the axle now slides super well !! I hope this can be useful for someone who has the same problem. Have a lovely day everybody
Screenshot_20210418_181200_com.android.gallery3d (resized).jpgScreenshot_20210418_181215_com.android.gallery3d (resized).jpgQuoted from Stef95:Hello, the post on page 46 did not correspond to my problem. This evoked a problem of maintaining the fork. Mine didn't want to come down. I took everything apart and I found the problem: there is a pin which maintains the axis in the yellow coil and this one C is offset. Suddenly the pin rubbed against the spool (see photo) I inserted the pin with pliers and the axle now slides super well !! I hope this can be useful for someone who has the same problem. Have a lovely day everybody
[quoted image][quoted image]
Ah! So the roll pin worked its way out! I'll mark this as another key post on the issue as a possible thing to check for people with this problem.
Recently had the same problem with the gate from a MM which would not go down all the way. Same solution as just mentioned.
If not it’s:
Bended forks.
Missing mini-screws and their plastic white bushings.
Missing 1 or 2 small springs which help the retractor mini-coil.
Quoted from jrawlinson_2000:Just noticed a huge chunk of art work near the map hole has come off by the cliffy!
[quoted image]
Wondering how best to protect it from getting worse, should I put some mylar down
I'd arrest it with some clear nail polish ASAP. Remove the cliffy, cover with nail polish, let dry, re-attach cliffy. If you're going to do mylar as well, let the nail polish air for a few days, then apply mylar and re-install cliffy.
Dang my JJP Pirates will not boot.
When I power on the translight LED strip comes on for a fraction of a second then goes off and the machine is dead.
In the backbox I can see the CPU fan start then stop like the PC power supply fan.
I did attempt a kick start by connecting the green and black wires on the ATX power supply, but no joy.
Any other suggestions please?
Quoted from jrawlinson_2000:Dang my JJP Pirates will not boot.
When I power on the translight LED strip comes on for a fraction of a second then goes off and the machine is dead.
In the backbox I can see the CPU fan start then stop like the PC power supply fan.
I did attempt a kick start by connecting the green and black wires on the ATX power supply, but no joy.
Any other suggestions please?
I had a POTC that was shutting down / rebooting during gameplay...it turned out the ATX power supply went bad. Replacing it with a new one fixed the problem.
The jump start usually fixes what you're describing though; I would follow the steps to clear the CMOS on the motherboard and try again before resorting to new hardware.
Quoted from zaphX:I had a POTC that was shutting down / rebooting during gameplay...it turned out the ATX power supply went bad. Replacing it with a new one fixed the problem.
The jump start usually fixes what you're describing though; I would follow the steps to clear the CMOS on the motherboard and try again before resorting to new hardware.
Can I just purchase any ATX power supply or is there a recommend one or wattage I should go for?
Quoted from jrawlinson_2000:Can I just purchase any ATX power supply or is there a recommend one or wattage I should go for?
I would try to match or exceed the power of the original at least - it's in the manual (450 watt maybe?)
Quoted from jrawlinson_2000:Dang my JJP Pirates will not boot.
When I power on the translight LED strip comes on for a fraction of a second then goes off and the machine is dead.
In the backbox I can see the CPU fan start then stop like the PC power supply fan.
I did attempt a kick start by connecting the green and black wires on the ATX power supply, but no joy.
Any other suggestions please?
Yep, its a dead ATX PSU, tried one I had laying around and the game boots, so have ordered a 450w one from Amazon.
Is there one that is just plug and play? In other words, all connectors the same as the one that comes with the game?
Quoted from LOTR_breath:Is there one that is just plug and play? In other words, all connectors the same as the one that comes with the game?
Quoted from LOTR_breath:Is there one that is just plug and play? In other words, all connectors the same as the one that comes with the game?
Yes, most ATX PSUs will do, I got this one;
https://www.evga.com/products/specs/psu.aspx?pn=0858fdd0-ecfc-4042-ab7a-50f6ead12da9
Quoted from PinMonk:PROBLEM: Balls getting stuck at the top of the Black Pearl ramp.
SOLUTION: Ensure the game is horizontally (left to right) level, measured at the playfield. Next, locate the screw to the right of the ramp which compresses a rubber crush washer. Tighten this screw clockwise until setting balls on the top of the ramp always makes them roll away right. Do not over-tighten or the screw can break in the post! If this fails to resolve the problem, remove the rubber entirely. If this still fails to resolve the problem, put a clear cabinet bumper under the Pearl ramp to lift the left side a bit. You want the ball to roll off to the right easily no matter how gently it is placed on top of the ramp. This is a very common issue and easily fixed.
Hey PinMonk, I removed the rubber under screw, but my ball still gets stuck. Do you have a pic of where to place that rubber bumper under left side of ramp? thx
Quoted from 3pinballs:Hey PinMonk, I removed the rubber under screw, but my ball still gets stuck. Do you have a pic of where to place that rubber bumper under left side of ramp? thx
Take a picture of your stuck ball from a couple angles on top and one where the post under the right side of the ramp is visible so I can help.
Quoted from 3pinballs:Hey PinMonk, I removed the rubber under screw, but my ball still gets stuck. Do you have a pic of where to place that rubber bumper under left side of ramp? thx
I had this problem as well and needed to adjust the ramp screws at the base of the ramp. When screwed in flush my balls would continue to catch. I let out some slack on the bottom left flap screw at been perfect ever since. There is alot of play you can adjust at the bottom of the ramp as well. Also look to see if your ramp is sitting on gold targets beneath, you may need to make some adjustments to move the wires and ramp out of the way.
Quoted from PinMonk:Take a picture of your stuck ball from a couple angles on top and one where the post under the right side of the ramp is visible so I can help.
Sorry it took so long, here are the pics..thx Pin Monk
IMG-7439 (resized).jpgIMG-7440 (resized).jpgIMG-7441 (resized).jpgIMG-7442 (resized).jpgIMG-7443 (resized).jpgIMG-7445 (resized).jpgQuoted from 3pinballs:Sorry it took so long, here are the pics..thx Pin Monk[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Oh, that's not the SEAM that's hanging up your ball, your ramp needs to be tilted a tiny bit to the right. Tighten the screw on the right side a few turns that holds the ramp on near the top.
You also can try loosening the left side of the gate bracket and sliding it forward a smidge or bending the wire a little (VERY LITTLE) to give a better left to right slope.
Hi Everyone,
twice in one game and a few times other, my game will start a chapter (after some have been qualified)without the ball going up into the starmap. I banged on the playfield to see which switch is doing it but couldn't find it. Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks in advance!
Quoted from Heater:Hi Everyone,
twice in one game and a few times other, my game will start a chapter (after some have been qualified)without the ball going up into the starmap. I banged on the playfield to see which switch is doing it but couldn't find it. Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks in advance!
Anyone?
Quoted from Heater:Anyone?
Is the post in front of the Star Map area going up when this happens? If so then I'd guess it's one of the targets or slings in that area registering when it shouldn't. One idea could be to play and when it happens end the game and go into the menu to the switch history log. Check that log for a switch (especially one in the Star Map area) that shows as having registered that you know you didn't hit. Just an idea though.
Quoted from EaglePin:Is the post in front of the Star Map area going up when this happens? If so then I'd guess it's one of the targets or slings in that area registering when it shouldn't. One idea could be to play and when it happens end the game and go into the menu to the switch history log. Check that log for a switch (especially one in the Star Map area) that shows as having registered that you know you didn't hit. Just an idea though.
Brilliant! The post is going up just as if the ball had entered. I will check that! Much thanks
Quoted from Heater:Question, est-
ce que frapper n'importe quel interrupteur dans la carte des étoiles crédite Jack en frappant les personnages ?
To my knowledge, yes. Except when the mission has just started it seems to me that there is a delay of 3 or 4 seconds before being able to validate Jack. If you make a direct return to the star map, it will not be validated
I recently started having what seems like intermittent solenoid weakness. Most notably with the trough eject, the dreaded auto-launch, the tortuga kickout and the depths kickout. Everything had been working great up until the last few weeks. Now it seems like 1 out of 10 times the coils will have a weak pulse when they activate; the trough has trouble getting the ball into the shooter lane, the auto launcher only gets the ball about halfway up the shooter lane, the tortuga launches the ball down the center, etc.
I had already mechanically dialed in and cleaned these mechs within the last year, and cleaned and checked them again since these issues started. I also tried reseating the connectors for these solenoids on the I/O board, but the problem persists. I am starting to suspect an issue with the ATX power supply, because I have also been getting a noticeable high pitch hum in the speakers for quite a while now which I also have been unable to rememdy, but I'm not really sure how to verify that (JJP support has never responded to my tickets/emails regarding the audio hum). Any suggestions of what else might cause this? Any idea how to test the power supply?
Has anyone experienced Fuse F706 immediately blowing when POTC is turned on? Are there any known shorts for the 3 ball lock forks raise & retract, chapter select buried magnet, orbit magnet, or Black Pearl Access VUK? I'll start later this week disconnecting each of the connections and see which one is causing the issue, but thought I'd try this thread first. Thank you.
BTW - Great thread. Keep up the great work!
Quoted from eroomnek:Has anyone experienced Fuse F706 immediately blowing when POTC is turned on? Are there any known shorts for the 3 ball lock forks raise & retract, chapter select buried magnet, orbit magnet, or Black Pearl Access VUK? I'll start later this week disconnecting each of the connections and see which one is causing the issue, but thought I'd try this thread first. Thank you.
BTW - Great thread. Keep up the great work!
Had the same issue on a POTC on location . It was a shorted transistor for the raise fork.
Thank you. I just checked the MOSFETs and both Q327 (fork retract) and Q328 (fork raise) are shorted. Either coil doesn't look too great either. One of the stops for the fork mech had come off and was laying inside the cabinet. Guess it's time to order some parts and rebuild. Thanks again for the feedback.
Hi everyone,
Well, just when I thought my game was doing great, a big issue has been occurring. The forks for the chest are getting stuck open. I go into the test and using the enter switch, I press it 5-6 times and the forks will retract. Once it goes up again, the forks get stuck again until I use the enter button again multiple times. Any thoughts where I should look?
Quoted from Heater:Hi everyone,
Well, just when I thought my game was doing great, a big issue has been occurring. The forks for the chest are getting stuck open. I go into the test and using the enter switch, I press it 5-6 times and the forks will retract. Once it goes up again, the forks get stuck again until I use the enter button again multiple times. Any thoughts where I should look?
There's a small coil on that assembly shaft under the playfield that pulls back to allow the forks to fall. You likely just need to bend that arm on the small coil a little so it pulls back more concretely.
Quoted from PinMonk:There's a small coil on that assembly shaft under the playfield that pulls back to allow the forks to fall. You likely just need to bend that arm on the small coil a little so it pulls back more concretely.
Will give it a try and thanks!
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