(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech


By vireland

8 months ago



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There are 2349 posts in this topic. You are on page 7 of 47.
#301 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Ah okay.
It’s not “too” excessive?

makes it fun! plundering only happens when u hit map hole, just remember u can only do it when not in multi-ball. think bedlam gives u a 80 percent of getting plundering award.

#302 7 months ago
Quoted from thc666:

makes it fun! plundering only happens when u hit map hole, just remember u can only do it when not in multi-ball. think bedlam gives u a 80 percent of getting plundering award.

Wow!

Okay then... =)

#303 7 months ago

Just curious if anyone thread locks (blue) any of their stuff...specifically THIS game.

Specifically I'm thinking about the plunger assembly (don't want to adjust again...) and flipper assemblies to prevent them from coming lose as well.

#304 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Thanks for the advice. I’ll probably go with the nicer one. It’s in a nice concealed case. Things like that matter to me.

I bought mine for nothing related to pinball. And I've found various uses for it over the years for things around the house etc. They are very handle tools.

#305 7 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

I bought mine for nothing related to pinball. And I've found various uses for it over the years for things around the house etc. They are very handle tools.

It seemed like a really fun toy so I went ahead and picked one up as well as a kit for it.
I think it could be wonderful for cleaning and possibly cutting a chain link for a chandelier I'm trying to hang up.

I'll say this. They seem like VERY versatile tools and when I was in Ace hardware last night, I was completely blown away at all the attachments this thing has.

Looking forward to it...

#306 7 months ago

As an fyi to those removing the ship to put cliffys on, there is no reason to loosen or remove the bp ramp. Just remove the three screws holding the vuk, remove the vuk, and there is plenty of clearance to slide the ship back and remove it. The vuk is positively located, where as the ramp is adjustable, introducing unnecessary variables into the reassembly equation. Further, the brackets that the bp ride on are designed so that the bp is to be removed by sliding it toward the back of the machine, not forward toward the ramp.

672332B7-5731-40AF-9408-6049BB976ECB (resized).jpeg6803CA2D-8EEF-4A5F-AEB2-3091992D4666 (resized).jpegB0D1C270-01D0-45F6-808E-D256610C985C (resized).jpeg
#307 7 months ago

As an fyi to those removing the ship to put cliffys on, there is no reason to loosen or remove the bp ramp. Just remove the three screws holding the vuk, remove the vuk, and there is plenty of clearance to slide the ship back and remove it. The vuk is positively located, where as the ramp is adjustable, introducing unnecessary variables into the reassembly equation. Further, the brackets that the bp ride on are designed so that the bp is to be removed by sliding it toward the back of the machine, not forward toward the ramp.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]</blockquote

Timely tip for me. Thank you!

#308 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

It seemed like a really fun toy so I went ahead and picked one up as well as a kit for it.
I think it could be wonderful for cleaning and possibly cutting a chain link for a chandelier I'm trying to hang up.
I'll say this. They seem like VERY versatile tools and when I was in Ace hardware last night, I was completely blown away at all the attachments this thing has.
Looking forward to it...

Off the top of my head I've used it to cut bolts/nails, cut chain link for lights, cut/sand small areas of wood for some remodeling, sand down metal parts on pinball machine, sand my son's pinewood derby car, fix door jamb areas, and more I'm sure I'm forgetting.

#309 7 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

As an fyi to those removing the ship to put cliffys on, there is no reason to loosen or remove the bp ramp. Just remove the three screws holding the vuk, remove the vuk, and there is plenty of clearance to slide the ship back and remove it. The vuk is positively located, where as the ramp is adjustable, introducing unnecessary variables into the reassembly equation. Further, the brackets that the bp ride on are designed so that the bp is to be removed by sliding it toward the back of the machine, not forward toward the ramp.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice, made this a key post, great tip!

#310 7 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Off the top of my head I've used it to cut bolts/nails, cut chain link for lights, cut/sand small areas of wood for some remodeling, sand down metal parts on pinball machine, sand my son's pinewood derby car, fix door jamb areas, and more I'm sure I'm forgetting.

I used it to get a mushroomed shooter rod off a route pin I bought by cutting the mushroomed end off. NEVER imagined it would one day be used for that, but it worked great.

#311 7 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

As an fyi to those removing the ship to put cliffys on, there is no reason to loosen or remove the bp ramp. Just remove the three screws holding the vuk, remove the vuk, and there is plenty of clearance to slide the ship back and remove it. The vuk is positively located, where as the ramp is adjustable, introducing unnecessary variables into the reassembly equation. Further, the brackets that the bp ride on are designed so that the bp is to be removed by sliding it toward the back of the machine, not forward toward the ramp.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Did you find this out after adjusting/removing the ramp? I'm having a hard time getting it back in place currently. And the vuk is the real pain in the ass, as far as getting in the way of the ship when removing and resetting it.

#312 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Did you find this out after adjusting/removing the ramp? I'm having a hard time getting it back in place currently. And the vuk is the real pain in the ass, as far as getting in the way of the ship when removing and resetting it.

No. Looked at the drawings in the manual and saw how the ship was assembled to the playfield. Noticed that the posts the ship ride on pointed toward the back

#313 7 months ago

Here is what a routed game looks like with the original sling posts (first 3 shots). It looks like someone already got the washer idea (doubt this is factory as the others don't have it) in pic 4. Also, looks like JJP designed their lane divider on the right side with a similar "washer" along the bottom design. I'm sure that's just part of the part characteristics (needs something to keep it up on the playfield for the nuts to pull against) but interesting.

Waiting on star posts, probably will do the clear lexan washers for now unless I can find something better.

0423191508 (resized).jpg0423191509 (resized).jpg0423191509a (resized).jpg0423191509b (resized).jpg
#314 7 months ago

Does anyone else have this audio issue? It's mostly identifiable when it starts up. My WOZ makes a loud "pop" kind of sound but nothing like this. I feel like it's indicative of other game audio issues but I haven't paid close enough attention. Ignore the startup delay, I'm pretty sure the Ubuntu startup screen showed up because I interrupted the previous boot.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9KunB7zYqz1ym4fC8

#315 7 months ago

Other than the long start up delay, absolutely normal.

#316 7 months ago

Left flipper on the BP stopped working today. It flips a few times and then goes dead. Physical linkage seems fine. I'm guessing bad solder joint or broken wire. Guess I'll be removing the ship again, ugh!

#317 7 months ago

As to the post issue, instead of washers that change the height, why not use a hollow punch set to punch out the correct size dots or circles out of Mylar.

https://m.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html

#318 7 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

As to the post issue, instead of washers that change the height, why not use a hollow punch set to punch out the correct size dots or circles out of Mylar.
https://m.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html

I really can't see how mylar is going to protect anything. I guess maybe it can prevent a chip from starting but unless you're really easy on how much tension you put on those posts they will dig in to the playfield, probably pop the mylar up and won't really have any protection from the tension from the screws. Clear lexan PETG washers are pretty thick, which seems an issue. Might just have to go solid metal washers that are just a bit larger than the star posts.

#319 7 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Left flipper on the BP stopped working today. It flips a few times and then goes dead. Physical linkage seems fine. I'm guessing bad solder joint or broken wire. Guess I'll be removing the ship again, ugh!

Save yourself some trouble and just remove the rear vuk rather than the BP ramp. Once removed, there is plenty of room to slide the ship back and up. Vuk is positively located with only three screws. Versus the ramp which is a pain to reset and adjust.

#320 7 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

Save yourself some trouble and just remove the rear vuk rather than the BP ramp. Once removed, there is plenty of room to slide the ship back and up. Vuk is positively located with only three screws. Versus the ramp which is a pain to reset and adjust.

Great suggestion, thanks!

#321 7 months ago

Help - How do you install the Cliffy at the Mystery hole? Do you need to remove the jet bumper wafer that's half blocking screws? If so, how the heck do you remove the jet bumper components?

Thanks

#322 7 months ago
Quoted from rj_tenn:

Help - How do you install the Cliffy at the Mystery hole? Do you need to remove the jet bumper wafer that's half blocking screws? If so, how the heck do you remove the jet bumper components?
Thanks

There are some good tutorials with photos on removing tortuga tom. Search for him in the club thread.

#323 7 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

Save yourself some trouble and just remove the rear vuk rather than the BP ramp. Once removed, there is plenty of room to slide the ship back and up. Vuk is positively located with only three screws. Versus the ramp which is a pain to reset and adjust.

Nice find! I had wondered, after loosening it, if the VUK was the main culprit, and how difficult that would be to tend to.

Are all of those screws above the playfield?

#324 7 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I really can't see how mylar is going to protect anything. I guess maybe it can prevent a chip from starting but unless you're really easy on how much tension you put on those posts they will dig in to the playfield, probably pop the mylar up and won't really have any protection from the tension from the screws. Clear lexan PETG washers are pretty thick, which seems an issue. Might just have to go solid metal washers that are just a bit larger than the star posts.

Actual mylar (not hobby store cling) will protect the playfield fine and likely do less potential damage than a washer or post because the thickness of the mylar will absorb the torque and pressure of the post. All the washers are doing is spreading the torque over a wider surface area and changing the height of the sling rubber. These fragile playfield finishes are a drag. The better they look, the more fragile they are. Bring back diamondplate and just give everyone a respirator.

#325 7 months ago
Quoted from rj_tenn:

Help - How do you install the Cliffy at the Mystery hole? Do you need to remove the jet bumper wafer that's half blocking screws? If so, how the heck do you remove the jet bumper components?
Thanks

Check the index at post 1. Same process for fixing a loose or mis-aligned deflector:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues#post-4934930

#326 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Actual mylar (not hobby store cling) will protect the playfield fine and likely do less potential damage than a washer or post because the thickness of the mylar will absorb the torque and pressure of the post. All the washers are doing is spreading the torque over a wider surface area and changing the height of the sling rubber. These fragile playfield finishes are a drag. The better they look, the more fragile they are. Bring back diamondplate and just give everyone a respirator.

This should work. I put sling mylar in my shooter lane also.

#327 7 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Left flipper on the BP stopped working today. It flips a few times and then goes dead. Physical linkage seems fine. I'm guessing bad solder joint or broken wire. Guess I'll be removing the ship again, ugh!

Would be really interesting if you, too, have a loose roll pin that’s apart of the flipper assembly.

I had the EXACT same issue. I have received replacements from JJP, but haven’t yet committed the time to fix and test.

#328 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Actual mylar (not hobby store cling) will protect the playfield fine and likely do less potential damage than a washer or post because the thickness of the mylar will absorb the torque and pressure of the post. All the washers are doing is spreading the torque over a wider surface area and changing the height of the sling rubber. These fragile playfield finishes are a drag. The better they look, the more fragile they are. Bring back diamondplate and just give everyone a respirator.

Ok... I'll trust those who sound like they have more experience than me. I have Marco mylar (and mylar direct from JJP for my WOZ) that I can try out.

#329 7 months ago
Quoted from Av8:

This should work. I put sling mylar in my shooter lane also.

Sling mylar?

#330 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Nice find! I had wondered, after loosening it, if the VUK was the main culprit, and how difficult that would be to tend to.
Are all of those screws above the playfield?

Yep! All above playfield. Take those three out and VUK lifts right off. I suggest you get a magnetic extension nutdriver to make your life easier when doing this. Some of the screws are buried pretty deep.

https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tool-accessories/drive-bits-accessories/performax-reg-6-magnetic-nut-driver/c045671/p-1444444262480-c-10156.htm?tid=-7500025011283730123&ipos=7
0CA232DF-5DB9-412E-BD9F-FCFC04225AE2 (resized).png

DEEF2394-B06F-4AAD-90C0-76E07ED78E33 (resized).png
#331 7 months ago

Here are pics of how the bp is connected to the pf. The brackets are in orange.

04536532-77B6-4EFA-A5FB-E57CF33393AA (resized).png82B1D0D8-BB1F-430E-A9B0-865209FD4977 (resized).pngB298157F-7F3E-4B6C-B458-833600CB4FAE (resized).png
#332 7 months ago

There are two male pins on brackets, one mounted on the pf on a tall standoff and one on the backboard; and two female brackets on the bottom of the bp with oilite bushings.

#333 7 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

As to the post issue, instead of washers that change the height, why not use a hollow punch set to punch out the correct size dots or circles out of Mylar.
https://m.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html

How do you use this? Is there an extra tool involved?

By the way, for removing the hex key behind the Black Pearl, this set works fantastically! I think the 1/8" is the correct one.

https://m.harborfreight.com/10-Pc-SAE-T-Handle-Hex-Key-Set-69369.html

#334 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

How do you use this? Is there an extra tool involved?
By the way, for removing the hex key behind the Black Pearl, this set works fantastically! I think the 1/8" is the correct one.
https://m.harborfreight.com/10-Pc-SAE-T-Handle-Hex-Key-Set-69369.html

The punches are hollow on the cutting end. The hollow end’s edges are sharpened for cutting. I have a set that i use for punching holes in gasket material, cloth, leather, etc. I would use a piece of wood under the material being punched to keep from dulling the punch. You hit the solid end of the punch with a hammer, lightly. The slot in the side of the punch is so you can remove the punched out material from the punch itself. In this instance, you would actually be using the punched out material under the pf post.

#335 7 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

The punches are hollow on the cutting end. The hollow end’s edges are sharpened for cutting. I have a set that i use for punching holes in gasket material, cloth, leather, etc. I would use a piece of wood under the material being punched to keep from dulling the punch. You hit the solid end of the punch with a hammer.

Wow!

There’s just so much stuff out there...

#336 7 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

The punches are hollow on the cutting end. The hollow end’s edges are sharpened for cutting. I have a set that i use for punching holes in gasket material, cloth, leather, etc. I would use a piece of wood under the material being punched to keep from dulling the punch. You hit the solid end of the punch with a hammer, lightly. The slot in the side of the punch is so you can remove the punched out material from the punch itself. In this instance, you would actually be using the punched out material under the pf post.

Interesting. So you're suggesting using the mylar under the post or around it?

#337 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Interesting. So you're suggesting using the mylar under the post or around it?

Under I believe...

#338 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Interesting. So you're suggesting using the mylar under the post or around it?

I’m going to punch mylar circles out that are slightly larger than the post diameter and use these under the posts. I will probably just use an awl to poke a hole for the post screw once the mylar circles are stuck down on the pf.

#339 7 months ago

The sling mylar is the half moon shaped mylars that are shipped in the coinbox. Here is where they would be optionally installed by the slingshots, numbers 0 and 1. The rest of the mylars shown are factory installed.

CB878176-38AC-48B8-A4D1-14FEB525E955 (resized).png

#340 7 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

The sling mylar is the half moon shaped mylars that are in the coinbox. Here is where they would be optionally installed by the slingshots, numbers 0 and 1. The rest of the mylars shown are factory installed.
[quoted image]

Is there a reason....not to install those sling mylars?

If you do those washer posts, please share photos to show us how they turned out!

#341 7 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

The sling mylar is the half moon shaped mylars that are shipped in the coinbox. Here is where they would be optionally installed by the slingshots, numbers 0 and 1. The rest of the mylars shown are factory installed.
[quoted image]

Ah, I thought those pieces were for the BP. Haha

Here it turns out these Mylar pieces have names.

Haha

#342 7 months ago

Here is the bp mylar and the part numbers for all mylars.

8AAD269E-09B0-4988-9501-F3FC6F3F7677 (resized).png
#343 7 months ago

The other little square mylars shipped in the coinbox go under the lockdown bar to keep it from scratching the powdercoat on the siderails. Numbers 6 below.

A409BA1A-F49E-4151-95FA-2D1558881E09 (resized).png
#344 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Is there a reason....not to install those sling mylars?
If you do those washer posts, please share photos to show us how they turned out!

I can’t think of a good reason not too. I will definitely share pics!

#345 7 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

The other little square mylars shipped in the coinbox go under the lockdown bar to keep it from scratching the powdercoat on the siderails. Numbers 6 below.[quoted image]

That I knew, but I’m taking it a step further and felting that entire area (though I did use those squares for that exact purpose).

#346 7 months ago

PROBLEM: Sling thin posts or even replacement star posts are digging into the clear on the playfield (sometimes chipping it).

SOLUTION: Remove post, install thin washer or 1.125" mylar disc. Reinstall post, gently tighten, do not torque.

Remove sling nuts using 11/32 socket.
remove-sling-nuts (resized).jpg

Remove post with 5/16" deep socket. Breathe deeply and often when you see the deep marks in the clear already where the post was. It will all be okay.
post-marks (resized).jpg

Wipe area with 90% rubbing alcohol on microfiber cloth to clean well. Make sure area is dry before proceeding.
Install mylar disc or THIN clear or steel washer. Reinstall post, tightening GENTLY. Reinstall sling plastic and nut.

Here's 1.25" mylar disc (too large, I've dialed mine back to 1.125") installed with off-angle light - almost invisible
mylar-on-post (resized).jpg

Here's the same disc lit:
mylar-on-post-2 (resized).jpg

#347 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

PROBLEM: Sling posts (and others) are digging into the clear on the playfield (sometimes chipping it).
SOLUTION: Remove post, install thin washer or 1.125" mylar. Reinstall post, gently tighten, do not torque.
Remove sling nuts using 11/32 socket.
[quoted image]
Remove post with 5/16" deep socket. Breathe deeply and often when you see the deep marks in the clear already where the post was. It will all be okay.
[quoted image]
Wipe area with 90% rubbing alcohol on microfiber cloth to clean well. Make sure area is dry before proceeding.
Install mylar disc or THIN clear or steel washer. Reinstall post, tightening GENTLY. Reinstall sling plastic and nut.
Here's 1.25" mylar disc (too large, I've dialed mine back to 1.125") installed with off-angle light - almost invisible
[quoted image]
Here's the same disc lit:
[quoted image]

Nice work! Man those gouges are horrible.

#348 7 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Nice work! Man those gouges are horrible.

That looks fantastic!

Did you use a punch hole set or something to get that precise diameter or?

#349 7 months ago

So that I'm clear (no pun intended), the game does not have star posts by default, right? My game doesn't appear to.

I'm considering green star posts since CE. Thoughts? Or should I just do clear since it will better match the sling rubber?

#350 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

So that I'm clear (no pun intended), the game does not have star posts by default, right? My game doesn't appear to.
I'm considering green star posts since CE. Thoughts? Or should I just do clear since it will better match the sling rubber?

Green or blue would look good, I think. I ALMOST did blue, and may still.

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