(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech


By vireland

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 3,321 posts
  • 184 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by RobbyIRL5
  • Topic is favorited by 121 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 603 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_3922 (resized).jpg
IMG_3933 (resized).jpg
bp (resized).JPG
IMG_2692 (resized).jpeg
E8A7731E-BD3A-4853-92DD-4DD485FF0EC0 (resized).jpeg
6C6B827B-F3DB-48FF-A1B1-52959781888B (resized).jpeg
E2D82214-DA31-4599-AF17-4A60EE299AA4 (resized).jpeg
B9DEF292-98C5-4AB2-91C6-CDD75BA9E0B2 (resized).jpeg
C167D4C0-98C4-4C44-BC79-CFEBD054CE4A (resized).jpeg
pasted_image (resized).png
Screenshot 2020-11-07 112522 (resized).png
Screenshot 2020-11-07 112503 (resized).png
Screenshot 2020-11-07 112432 (resized).png
Screenshot 2020-11-07 112642 (resized).png
Screenshot 2020-11-07 112622 (resized).png
20201107_152624 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 3321 posts in this topic. You are on page 7 of 67.
#301 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Ah okay.
It’s not “too” excessive?

makes it fun! plundering only happens when u hit map hole, just remember u can only do it when not in multi-ball. think bedlam gives u a 80 percent of getting plundering award.

#302 1 year ago
Quoted from thc666:

makes it fun! plundering only happens when u hit map hole, just remember u can only do it when not in multi-ball. think bedlam gives u a 80 percent of getting plundering award.

Wow!

Okay then... =)

#303 1 year ago

Just curious if anyone thread locks (blue) any of their stuff...specifically THIS game.

Specifically I'm thinking about the plunger assembly (don't want to adjust again...) and flipper assemblies to prevent them from coming lose as well.

#304 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Thanks for the advice. I’ll probably go with the nicer one. It’s in a nice concealed case. Things like that matter to me.

I bought mine for nothing related to pinball. And I've found various uses for it over the years for things around the house etc. They are very handle tools.

#305 1 year ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

I bought mine for nothing related to pinball. And I've found various uses for it over the years for things around the house etc. They are very handle tools.

It seemed like a really fun toy so I went ahead and picked one up as well as a kit for it.
I think it could be wonderful for cleaning and possibly cutting a chain link for a chandelier I'm trying to hang up.

I'll say this. They seem like VERY versatile tools and when I was in Ace hardware last night, I was completely blown away at all the attachments this thing has.

Looking forward to it...

#306 1 year ago

As an fyi to those removing the ship to put cliffys on, there is no reason to loosen or remove the bp ramp. Just remove the three screws holding the vuk, remove the vuk, and there is plenty of clearance to slide the ship back and remove it. The vuk is positively located, where as the ramp is adjustable, introducing unnecessary variables into the reassembly equation. Further, the brackets that the bp ride on are designed so that the bp is to be removed by sliding it toward the back of the machine, not forward toward the ramp.

672332B7-5731-40AF-9408-6049BB976ECB (resized).jpeg6803CA2D-8EEF-4A5F-AEB2-3091992D4666 (resized).jpegB0D1C270-01D0-45F6-808E-D256610C985C (resized).jpeg
#307 1 year ago

As an fyi to those removing the ship to put cliffys on, there is no reason to loosen or remove the bp ramp. Just remove the three screws holding the vuk, remove the vuk, and there is plenty of clearance to slide the ship back and remove it. The vuk is positively located, where as the ramp is adjustable, introducing unnecessary variables into the reassembly equation. Further, the brackets that the bp ride on are designed so that the bp is to be removed by sliding it toward the back of the machine, not forward toward the ramp.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]</blockquote

Timely tip for me. Thank you!

#308 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

It seemed like a really fun toy so I went ahead and picked one up as well as a kit for it.
I think it could be wonderful for cleaning and possibly cutting a chain link for a chandelier I'm trying to hang up.
I'll say this. They seem like VERY versatile tools and when I was in Ace hardware last night, I was completely blown away at all the attachments this thing has.
Looking forward to it...

Off the top of my head I've used it to cut bolts/nails, cut chain link for lights, cut/sand small areas of wood for some remodeling, sand down metal parts on pinball machine, sand my son's pinewood derby car, fix door jamb areas, and more I'm sure I'm forgetting.

#309 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

As an fyi to those removing the ship to put cliffys on, there is no reason to loosen or remove the bp ramp. Just remove the three screws holding the vuk, remove the vuk, and there is plenty of clearance to slide the ship back and remove it. The vuk is positively located, where as the ramp is adjustable, introducing unnecessary variables into the reassembly equation. Further, the brackets that the bp ride on are designed so that the bp is to be removed by sliding it toward the back of the machine, not forward toward the ramp.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice, made this a key post, great tip!

#310 1 year ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Off the top of my head I've used it to cut bolts/nails, cut chain link for lights, cut/sand small areas of wood for some remodeling, sand down metal parts on pinball machine, sand my son's pinewood derby car, fix door jamb areas, and more I'm sure I'm forgetting.

I used it to get a mushroomed shooter rod off a route pin I bought by cutting the mushroomed end off. NEVER imagined it would one day be used for that, but it worked great.

#311 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

As an fyi to those removing the ship to put cliffys on, there is no reason to loosen or remove the bp ramp. Just remove the three screws holding the vuk, remove the vuk, and there is plenty of clearance to slide the ship back and remove it. The vuk is positively located, where as the ramp is adjustable, introducing unnecessary variables into the reassembly equation. Further, the brackets that the bp ride on are designed so that the bp is to be removed by sliding it toward the back of the machine, not forward toward the ramp.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Did you find this out after adjusting/removing the ramp? I'm having a hard time getting it back in place currently. And the vuk is the real pain in the ass, as far as getting in the way of the ship when removing and resetting it.

#312 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Did you find this out after adjusting/removing the ramp? I'm having a hard time getting it back in place currently. And the vuk is the real pain in the ass, as far as getting in the way of the ship when removing and resetting it.

No. Looked at the drawings in the manual and saw how the ship was assembled to the playfield. Noticed that the posts the ship ride on pointed toward the back

#313 1 year ago

Here is what a routed game looks like with the original sling posts (first 3 shots). It looks like someone already got the washer idea (doubt this is factory as the others don't have it) in pic 4. Also, looks like JJP designed their lane divider on the right side with a similar "washer" along the bottom design. I'm sure that's just part of the part characteristics (needs something to keep it up on the playfield for the nuts to pull against) but interesting.

Waiting on star posts, probably will do the clear lexan washers for now unless I can find something better.

0423191508 (resized).jpg0423191509 (resized).jpg0423191509a (resized).jpg0423191509b (resized).jpg
#314 1 year ago

Does anyone else have this audio issue? It's mostly identifiable when it starts up. My WOZ makes a loud "pop" kind of sound but nothing like this. I feel like it's indicative of other game audio issues but I haven't paid close enough attention. Ignore the startup delay, I'm pretty sure the Ubuntu startup screen showed up because I interrupted the previous boot.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9KunB7zYqz1ym4fC8

#315 1 year ago

Other than the long start up delay, absolutely normal.

#316 1 year ago

Left flipper on the BP stopped working today. It flips a few times and then goes dead. Physical linkage seems fine. I'm guessing bad solder joint or broken wire. Guess I'll be removing the ship again, ugh!

#317 1 year ago

As to the post issue, instead of washers that change the height, why not use a hollow punch set to punch out the correct size dots or circles out of Mylar.

https://m.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html

#318 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

As to the post issue, instead of washers that change the height, why not use a hollow punch set to punch out the correct size dots or circles out of Mylar.
https://m.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html

I really can't see how mylar is going to protect anything. I guess maybe it can prevent a chip from starting but unless you're really easy on how much tension you put on those posts they will dig in to the playfield, probably pop the mylar up and won't really have any protection from the tension from the screws. Clear lexan PETG washers are pretty thick, which seems an issue. Might just have to go solid metal washers that are just a bit larger than the star posts.

#319 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Left flipper on the BP stopped working today. It flips a few times and then goes dead. Physical linkage seems fine. I'm guessing bad solder joint or broken wire. Guess I'll be removing the ship again, ugh!

Save yourself some trouble and just remove the rear vuk rather than the BP ramp. Once removed, there is plenty of room to slide the ship back and up. Vuk is positively located with only three screws. Versus the ramp which is a pain to reset and adjust.

#320 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

Save yourself some trouble and just remove the rear vuk rather than the BP ramp. Once removed, there is plenty of room to slide the ship back and up. Vuk is positively located with only three screws. Versus the ramp which is a pain to reset and adjust.

Great suggestion, thanks!

#321 1 year ago

Help - How do you install the Cliffy at the Mystery hole? Do you need to remove the jet bumper wafer that's half blocking screws? If so, how the heck do you remove the jet bumper components?

Thanks

#322 1 year ago
Quoted from rj_tenn:

Help - How do you install the Cliffy at the Mystery hole? Do you need to remove the jet bumper wafer that's half blocking screws? If so, how the heck do you remove the jet bumper components?
Thanks

There are some good tutorials with photos on removing tortuga tom. Search for him in the club thread.

#323 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

Save yourself some trouble and just remove the rear vuk rather than the BP ramp. Once removed, there is plenty of room to slide the ship back and up. Vuk is positively located with only three screws. Versus the ramp which is a pain to reset and adjust.

Nice find! I had wondered, after loosening it, if the VUK was the main culprit, and how difficult that would be to tend to.

Are all of those screws above the playfield?

#324 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I really can't see how mylar is going to protect anything. I guess maybe it can prevent a chip from starting but unless you're really easy on how much tension you put on those posts they will dig in to the playfield, probably pop the mylar up and won't really have any protection from the tension from the screws. Clear lexan PETG washers are pretty thick, which seems an issue. Might just have to go solid metal washers that are just a bit larger than the star posts.

Actual mylar (not hobby store cling) will protect the playfield fine and likely do less potential damage than a washer or post because the thickness of the mylar will absorb the torque and pressure of the post. All the washers are doing is spreading the torque over a wider surface area and changing the height of the sling rubber. These fragile playfield finishes are a drag. The better they look, the more fragile they are. Bring back diamondplate and just give everyone a respirator.

#325 1 year ago
Quoted from rj_tenn:

Help - How do you install the Cliffy at the Mystery hole? Do you need to remove the jet bumper wafer that's half blocking screws? If so, how the heck do you remove the jet bumper components?
Thanks

Check the index at post 1. Same process for fixing a loose or mis-aligned deflector:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues#post-4934930

#326 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Actual mylar (not hobby store cling) will protect the playfield fine and likely do less potential damage than a washer or post because the thickness of the mylar will absorb the torque and pressure of the post. All the washers are doing is spreading the torque over a wider surface area and changing the height of the sling rubber. These fragile playfield finishes are a drag. The better they look, the more fragile they are. Bring back diamondplate and just give everyone a respirator.

This should work. I put sling mylar in my shooter lane also.

#327 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Left flipper on the BP stopped working today. It flips a few times and then goes dead. Physical linkage seems fine. I'm guessing bad solder joint or broken wire. Guess I'll be removing the ship again, ugh!

Would be really interesting if you, too, have a loose roll pin that’s apart of the flipper assembly.

I had the EXACT same issue. I have received replacements from JJP, but haven’t yet committed the time to fix and test.

#328 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Actual mylar (not hobby store cling) will protect the playfield fine and likely do less potential damage than a washer or post because the thickness of the mylar will absorb the torque and pressure of the post. All the washers are doing is spreading the torque over a wider surface area and changing the height of the sling rubber. These fragile playfield finishes are a drag. The better they look, the more fragile they are. Bring back diamondplate and just give everyone a respirator.

Ok... I'll trust those who sound like they have more experience than me. I have Marco mylar (and mylar direct from JJP for my WOZ) that I can try out.

#329 1 year ago
Quoted from Av8:

This should work. I put sling mylar in my shooter lane also.

Sling mylar?

#330 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Nice find! I had wondered, after loosening it, if the VUK was the main culprit, and how difficult that would be to tend to.
Are all of those screws above the playfield?

Yep! All above playfield. Take those three out and VUK lifts right off. I suggest you get a magnetic extension nutdriver to make your life easier when doing this. Some of the screws are buried pretty deep.

https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tool-accessories/drive-bits-accessories/performax-reg-6-magnetic-nut-driver/c045671/p-1444444262480-c-10156.htm?tid=-7500025011283730123&ipos=7
0CA232DF-5DB9-412E-BD9F-FCFC04225AE2 (resized).png

DEEF2394-B06F-4AAD-90C0-76E07ED78E33 (resized).png
#331 1 year ago

Here are pics of how the bp is connected to the pf. The brackets are in orange.

04536532-77B6-4EFA-A5FB-E57CF33393AA (resized).png82B1D0D8-BB1F-430E-A9B0-865209FD4977 (resized).pngB298157F-7F3E-4B6C-B458-833600CB4FAE (resized).png
#332 1 year ago

There are two male pins on brackets, one mounted on the pf on a tall standoff and one on the backboard; and two female brackets on the bottom of the bp with oilite bushings.

#333 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

As to the post issue, instead of washers that change the height, why not use a hollow punch set to punch out the correct size dots or circles out of Mylar.
https://m.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html

How do you use this? Is there an extra tool involved?

By the way, for removing the hex key behind the Black Pearl, this set works fantastically! I think the 1/8" is the correct one.

https://m.harborfreight.com/10-Pc-SAE-T-Handle-Hex-Key-Set-69369.html

#334 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

How do you use this? Is there an extra tool involved?
By the way, for removing the hex key behind the Black Pearl, this set works fantastically! I think the 1/8" is the correct one.
https://m.harborfreight.com/10-Pc-SAE-T-Handle-Hex-Key-Set-69369.html

The punches are hollow on the cutting end. The hollow end’s edges are sharpened for cutting. I have a set that i use for punching holes in gasket material, cloth, leather, etc. I would use a piece of wood under the material being punched to keep from dulling the punch. You hit the solid end of the punch with a hammer, lightly. The slot in the side of the punch is so you can remove the punched out material from the punch itself. In this instance, you would actually be using the punched out material under the pf post.

#335 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

The punches are hollow on the cutting end. The hollow end’s edges are sharpened for cutting. I have a set that i use for punching holes in gasket material, cloth, leather, etc. I would use a piece of wood under the material being punched to keep from dulling the punch. You hit the solid end of the punch with a hammer.

Wow!

There’s just so much stuff out there...

#336 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

The punches are hollow on the cutting end. The hollow end’s edges are sharpened for cutting. I have a set that i use for punching holes in gasket material, cloth, leather, etc. I would use a piece of wood under the material being punched to keep from dulling the punch. You hit the solid end of the punch with a hammer, lightly. The slot in the side of the punch is so you can remove the punched out material from the punch itself. In this instance, you would actually be using the punched out material under the pf post.

Interesting. So you're suggesting using the mylar under the post or around it?

#337 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Interesting. So you're suggesting using the mylar under the post or around it?

Under I believe...

#338 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Interesting. So you're suggesting using the mylar under the post or around it?

I’m going to punch mylar circles out that are slightly larger than the post diameter and use these under the posts. I will probably just use an awl to poke a hole for the post screw once the mylar circles are stuck down on the pf.

#339 1 year ago

The sling mylar is the half moon shaped mylars that are shipped in the coinbox. Here is where they would be optionally installed by the slingshots, numbers 0 and 1. The rest of the mylars shown are factory installed.

CB878176-38AC-48B8-A4D1-14FEB525E955 (resized).png

#340 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

The sling mylar is the half moon shaped mylars that are in the coinbox. Here is where they would be optionally installed by the slingshots, numbers 0 and 1. The rest of the mylars shown are factory installed.
[quoted image]

Is there a reason....not to install those sling mylars?

If you do those washer posts, please share photos to show us how they turned out!

#341 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

The sling mylar is the half moon shaped mylars that are shipped in the coinbox. Here is where they would be optionally installed by the slingshots, numbers 0 and 1. The rest of the mylars shown are factory installed.
[quoted image]

Ah, I thought those pieces were for the BP. Haha

Here it turns out these Mylar pieces have names.

Haha

#342 1 year ago

Here is the bp mylar and the part numbers for all mylars.

8AAD269E-09B0-4988-9501-F3FC6F3F7677 (resized).png
#343 1 year ago

The other little square mylars shipped in the coinbox go under the lockdown bar to keep it from scratching the powdercoat on the siderails. Numbers 6 below.

A409BA1A-F49E-4151-95FA-2D1558881E09 (resized).png
#344 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Is there a reason....not to install those sling mylars?
If you do those washer posts, please share photos to show us how they turned out!

I can’t think of a good reason not too. I will definitely share pics!

#345 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

The other little square mylars shipped in the coinbox go under the lockdown bar to keep it from scratching the powdercoat on the siderails. Numbers 6 below.[quoted image]

That I knew, but I’m taking it a step further and felting that entire area (though I did use those squares for that exact purpose).

#346 1 year ago

PROBLEM: Sling thin posts or even replacement star posts are digging into the clear on the playfield (sometimes chipping it).

SOLUTION: Remove post, install thin washer or 1.125" mylar disc. Reinstall post, gently tighten, do not torque.

Remove sling nuts using 11/32 socket.
remove-sling-nuts (resized).jpg

Remove post with 5/16" deep socket. Breathe deeply and often when you see the deep marks in the clear already where the post was. It will all be okay.
post-marks (resized).jpg

Wipe area with 90% rubbing alcohol on microfiber cloth to clean well. Make sure area is dry before proceeding.
Install mylar disc or THIN clear or steel washer. Reinstall post, tightening GENTLY. Reinstall sling plastic and nut.

Here's 1.25" mylar disc (too large, I've dialed mine back to 1.125") installed with off-angle light - almost invisible
mylar-on-post (resized).jpg

Here's the same disc lit:
mylar-on-post-2 (resized).jpg

#347 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

PROBLEM: Sling posts (and others) are digging into the clear on the playfield (sometimes chipping it).
SOLUTION: Remove post, install thin washer or 1.125" mylar. Reinstall post, gently tighten, do not torque.
Remove sling nuts using 11/32 socket.
[quoted image]
Remove post with 5/16" deep socket. Breathe deeply and often when you see the deep marks in the clear already where the post was. It will all be okay.
[quoted image]
Wipe area with 90% rubbing alcohol on microfiber cloth to clean well. Make sure area is dry before proceeding.
Install mylar disc or THIN clear or steel washer. Reinstall post, tightening GENTLY. Reinstall sling plastic and nut.
Here's 1.25" mylar disc (too large, I've dialed mine back to 1.125") installed with off-angle light - almost invisible
[quoted image]
Here's the same disc lit:
[quoted image]

Nice work! Man those gouges are horrible.

#348 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Nice work! Man those gouges are horrible.

That looks fantastic!

Did you use a punch hole set or something to get that precise diameter or?

#349 1 year ago

So that I'm clear (no pun intended), the game does not have star posts by default, right? My game doesn't appear to.

I'm considering green star posts since CE. Thoughts? Or should I just do clear since it will better match the sling rubber?

#350 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

So that I'm clear (no pun intended), the game does not have star posts by default, right? My game doesn't appear to.
I'm considering green star posts since CE. Thoughts? Or should I just do clear since it will better match the sling rubber?

Green or blue would look good, I think. I ALMOST did blue, and may still.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 87.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 29.25
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
From: $ 81.00
From: $ 255.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pinball Mod Co.
$ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Pin Monk
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Miami, FL
There are 3321 posts in this topic. You are on page 7 of 67.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside