jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech

Quoted from BC_Gambit:
Hmm... looking at the pick again I am thinking grinding the screw (or using a lower profile or smaller diameter head screw) would the way to go. If there is only the one post supporting that bracket, you may be trading a possible ramp dimple with a ramp hammer from the metal hammering the ramp from ball hits...

Actually a flat head machine screw instead of a pan head may do the trick. The top of the plastic post would have to be drilled out to handle the taper of the flat head screw, but this may be the best solution.

#52 5 years ago

BAD

BC_Gambit

PinMod Industries

Unknown

11y 70,550 3,532

OP
Quoted from PinMonk:
Actually a flat head machine screw instead of a pan head may do the trick. The top of the plastic post would have to be drilled out to handle the taper of the flat head screw, but this may be the best solution.

You are probably right; looks like it is a standard plastic post (#2) here; you have extras if you did your slings

Capture (resized).PNG

#53 5 years ago

BAD

BC_Gambit

PinMod Industries

Unknown

11y 70,550 3,532

And the screw is a #1 here:

Capture (resized).PNG

#54 5 years ago

VIC

PinMonk

Yeah, basically get an 8-32 flat head machine screw 1-1/2 or 1-3/4 and drill out the plastic post to allow for the tapered head to rest down in it and I think it'll be there. I'll try this tomorrow.

machine-screw-phillips-flat-dimensions (resized).png

#55 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

Hey guys,

Remember the whole “lose” flippers topic on the BP?

“Simply” loosen nut, let flipper rest against metal rail (right?) and tighten. Viola!

Nope.

I did this exactly and the pitch of the flipper is exactly the same.

Do I adjust the flipper pitch as I’m tightening? I almost think I have to.

I watched JJP’s videos on both flipper and pop bumper assembly. Fascinating and was an eye opener as far as learning things will break.

I can’t seem to locate a good enough response/video, etc to learn how to adjust this pitch and hopefully solve my issue.

Still not sure why my BP flipper (left) is dead/unresponsive, but I did watch the BP removal video and it was very informative. Probably a broke wire. Maybe I get lucky and it’s a lose wire. There’s a switch test for this left BP flipper specifically, right?

I’m kinda torn on removing the BP right now as I have the Cliffy’s on order and I know that I’ll have to remove to install.

But that could take months and in the meantime I pretty much have an unplayable CE (as sad as that sounds). I may really have no choice but to remove the BP multiple times.

#56 5 years ago

VIC

PinMonk

Quoted from joseph5185:
Hey guys,
Remember the whole “lose” flippers topic on the BP?
“Simply” loosen nut, let flipper rest against metal rail (right?) and tighten. Viola!
Nope.
I did this exactly and the pitch of the flipper is exactly the same.
Do I adjust the flipper pitch as I’m tightening? I almost think I have to.
I watched JJP’s videos on both flipper and pop bumper assembly. Fascinating and was an eye opener as far as learning things will break.
I can’t seem to locate a good enough response/video, etc to learn how to adjust this pitch and hopefully solve my issue.
Still not sure why my BP flipper (left) is dead/unresponsive, but I did watch the BP removal video and it was very informative. Probably a broke wire. Maybe I get lucky and it’s a lose wire. There’s a switch test for this left BP flipper specifically, right?
I’m kinda torn on removing the BP right now as I have the Cliffy’s on order and I know that I’ll have to remove to install.
But that could take months and in the meantime I pretty much have an unplayable CE (as sad as that sounds). I may really have no choice but to remove the BP multiple times.

If you don't take it out completely, but just lift it up and to the side, it's really not that hard at all. One screw, one cotter pin, and slide out a pin and you have enough to work with for most issues.

#57 5 years ago

VIC

PinMonk

OP
Quoted from PinMonk:
Yeah, basically get an 8-32 flat head machine screw 1-1/2 or 1-3/4 and drill out the plastic post to allow for the tapered head to rest down in it and I think it'll be there. I'll try this tomorrow.[quoted image]

Okay, replying to myself on this one. I did this, and I would say the improvement is definite, but it's not really as much as it needs to be so I can't really recommend doing it. You don't have to drill out the plastic post because the piece on top is metal (forgot about that), so you end up having to bevel the hole so the flat screw rests lower, and even though you gain about 2mm and it's not pressing into the ramp as much, the edge of the metal top is still pressing on the back of the black pearl ramp. The ramp should have been further away from the metal top on that sling or the metal top should have been about 4mm further in.

So, I'm glad I did it, but I don't really recommend doing it, especially because you have to physically change the metal cover with the bevel to do it.

#58 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from PinMonk:
If you don't take it out completely, but just lift it up and to the side, it's really not that hard at all. One screw, one cotter pin, and slide out a pin and you have enough to work with for most issues.

Thanks @vireland. I just don’t know how to actually work on the flipper.

I guess I’ll just figure it out or contact JJP or something. I’m trying to stress that the instruction provided did not work for me.

Anyways...thanks again.

#59 5 years ago

VIC

PinMonk

Here's the height of the Black Pearl flippers at max extension on the one here. Measuring from the middle of the flipper bat tip to the edge of the plastic ramp.

bp_left_flipper_height (resized).jpgbp_right_flipper_height (resized).jpg

#60 5 years ago

VIC

PinMonk

PROBLEM: Coils don't work on the coil test menu

SOLUTION: You need to override the coil power safety cutoff while the coin door is open to be able to test coils with the coin door open. Here's where the service switch is that you can pull while the coin door is open to allow the coil safety power cut to be over-ridden and test coils while the coin door is open. Pull the post the green arrow is pointing to to bypass the safety and allow power to the coils for testing.
power-cutoff-switch (resized).jpg

#61 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from PinMonk:
Here's where the service switch is that you can pull while the coin door is open to allow the coil safety power cut to be over-ridden and test coils while the coin door is open. Pull the post the green arrow is pointing to to bypass the safety and allow power to the coils for testing.[quoted image]

Ah, okay... got it. I remember that.

Alright so the ramp is loose ... that was easy and I took the cotter pin (that's the squiggly looking hairpin isn't it? ... I didn't know that or is that the actual metal road that feeds into the slot of the back of the playfield)

no matter...

#62 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

Okay... I can lean it pretty good when that rod is through the playfield. Just going to grab some painters tape or something so it doesn't accidentally slide back in.

I am NOT to take out the pivoting screw in the center right? .. Wouldn't think so..

Alright .. here's a screenshot from the left ...

pasted_image (resized).png

#63 5 years ago

VIC

PinMonk

Quoted from joseph5185:
Okay... I can lean it pretty good when that rod is through the playfield. Just going to grab some painters tape or something so it doesn't accidentally slide back in.
I am NOT to take out the pivoting screw in the center right? .. Wouldn't think so..
Alright .. here's a screenshot from the left ... [quoted image]

Oh, your flipper linkage is apart - that's problem 1. The grey plastic with the hole should be connected to the metal shaft peeking out of the yellow coil. There's a pin that runs through it that holds it in place.
linkage (resized).jpg

Here's what the linkage you have in two pieces SHOULD look like when it's together:
flipper linkage (resized).jpg

And here's what the linkage should look like when it's on the flipper shaft ready to tighten down:
flipper assembly (resized).jpg

#64 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from PinMonk:
Oh, the flipper linkage is apart. The grey plastic with the hole should be connected to the metal shaft peeking out of the yellow coil. There's a pin that runs through it that holds it in place.
[quoted image]
Here's what the linkage you have in two pieces SHOULD look like when it's together:
[quoted image]
And here's what the linkage should look like when it's on the flipper shaft ready to tighten down:[quoted image]

Yea... I was just going to say that.

I don't know where that pin is...

I guess that's the first problem... =/

#65 5 years ago

VIC

PinMonk

Quoted from joseph5185:
Yea... I was just going to say that.
I don't know where that pin is...
I guess that's the first problem... =/

Can you post a higher-res picture of that coil area you just posted? Just select "original size" from the dropdown and it won't resize it if you have it larger...

That pin may have been your original problem. The pin that held that in was loose and eventually fell out. It should just be a small round springloaded cylinder, but it's pretty small, so get a bright flashlight and look in the cabinet bottom. It's what, 5am there? Maybe a project for tomorrow after some sleep...

#66 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

Oh thank God ...

It's actually hiding at the the top of where I need to connect the plastic.
Maybe it doesn't come out?

Working on it...

#67 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

If you look closely at that photo ... you'll see that it's hanging out on top ..

Interesting ... if that was loose it's possible the connection was never happening in the first place or I mean.. the flipper bat was never making contact with the coil ...

Wouldn't that be sweet??

#68 5 years ago

VIC

PinMonk

Quoted from joseph5185:
Oh thank God ...
It's actually hiding at the the top of where I need to connect the plastic.
Maybe it doesn't come out?
Working on it...

You'll need pliers to press it through once you get the plastic in place. Make sure you have it in the right orientation for the flipper direction (which way it's flipped makes it a right or left assembly, so you don't want another right orientation) before you press it through.

#69 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from PinMonk:
You'll need pliers to press it through once you get the plastic in place. Make sure you have it in the right orientation for the flipper direction (which way it's flipped makes it a right or left assembly, so you don't want another right orientation) before you press it through.

Yea no doubt ... Easy enough to do that because you can see where the metal piece is swinging to make contact with the switch.

This is a bit uh precise stuff here...

#70 5 years ago

VIC

PinMonk

Quoted from joseph5185:
Yea no doubt ... Easy enough to do that because you can see where the metal piece is swinging to make contact with the switch.
This is a bit uh precise stuff here...

I'd put the linkage on the flipper shaft first to make sure you have the orientation right before you lock down the plastic part with the press-in pin.

#71 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

Okay so this is kinda crazy...

It LEGIT looks like the pin was put in upside down?

Cause if you think about it ... if you were to rotate that .. the head of the pin would be at the bottom..

WOW!

My right flipper pin is orientated the correct way...

pasted_image (resized).png

#72 5 years ago

VIC

PinMonk

Quoted from joseph5185:
Okay so this is kinda crazy...
It LEGIT looks like the pin was put in upside down?
Cause if you think about it ... if you were to rotate that .. the head of the pin would be at the bottom..
WOW!
My right flipper pin is orientated the correct way...
[quoted image]

Once it's pushed in, it doesn't matter. The only thing that matters is if you get the linkage that connects to that right so the EOS arm will activate the EOS switch properly.

#73 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

So this was likely an issue from the start?

Yea?

Can I pull that metal rod out that the pin is attached to from the coil safely?
That pin doesn't want to budge a mm...

#74 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

Quoted from joseph5185:
So this was likely an issue from the start?
Yea?
Can I pull that metal rod out that the pin is attached to from the coil safely?
That pin doesn't want to budge a mm...

Because now that I know how this works ... I could of taken off the nut entirely ... wouldn't have affected that pin. At least, you wouldn't think so...

#75 5 years ago

VIC

PinMonk

Quoted from joseph5185:
So this was likely an issue from the start?
Yea?
Can I pull that metal road out that the pin is attached to from the coil safely?
That pin doesn't want to budge a mm...

You can pull it out and assemble the linkage outside the machine, but you need to make sure that you have the orientation right when you put it together for a left assembly AND you may have to loosen the coil mounts to get the shaft back in the coil if it's attached to the rest of the linkage (you may not have room to fit the shaft in straight because of the extra stuff attached).

#76 5 years ago

VIC

PinMonk

Quoted from joseph5185:
Because now that I know how this works ... I could of taken off the nut entirely ... wouldn't have affected that pin. At least, you wouldn't think so...

Yes, it seems like that pin being loose and letting the linkage fall off may have been the problem from the beginning.

#77 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from PinMonk:
Yes, it seems like that pin being loose and letting the linkage fall off may have been the problem from the beginning.

And... it was upside down so I know you said that it doesn't matter and I agree, but with all the vibration and gravity not on your side ... ya know?
This was probably going to happen...

#78 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from PinMonk:
You can pull it out and assemble the linkage outside the machine, but you need to make sure that you have the orientation right when you put it together for a left assembly AND you may have to loosen the coil mounts to get the shaft back in the coil if it's attached to the rest of the linkage (you may not have room to fit the shaft in straight because of the extra stuff attached).

I'm happy assembling under the BP. I just have to get the stupid pin out and I would prefer the pin fall to floor vs SOMEWHERE in the pinball machine because that could be a problem pretty fast if it fell into the MAP hole or something similar.

#79 5 years ago

VIC

PinMonk

Quoted from joseph5185:
I'm happy assembling under the BP. I just have to get the stupid pin out and I would prefer the pin fall to floor vs SOMEWHERE in the pinball machine because that could be a problem pretty fast if it fell into the MAP hole or something similar.

Assembling outside the machine will be easier, and probably faster.

#80 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from PinMonk:
Assembling outside the machine will be easier, and probably faster.

I can't get the rod out... It seems too long.

#81 5 years ago

VIC

PinMonk

Quoted from joseph5185:
I can't get the rod out... It seems too long.

If you unscrew the two philips screws at the front of the coil you can raise the front of the coil, which will allow you to slide the shaft out.

#82 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from PinMonk:
If you unscrew the two philips screws at the front of the coil you can raise the front of the coil, which will allow you to slide the shaft out.

Damn... okay.

#83 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

I'm going to have to... it's the only way I'm getting that pin out!

#84 5 years ago

VIC

PinMonk

Quoted from joseph5185:
I'm going to have to... it's the only way I'm getting that pin out!

You don't need to remove that pin in the shaft, you need to line up the plastic part of the linkage with the pin and press it through to the other hole on the top of the shaft.

#85 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from PinMonk:
If you unscrew the two philips screws at the front of the coil you can raise the front of the coil, which will allow you to slide the shaft out.

Are you referring to the metal L bracket thing in front of the coil where the screws are on top?

#86 5 years ago

VIC

PinMonk

Quoted from joseph5185:
Are you referring to the metal L bracket thing in front of the coil where the screws are on top?

Yes. Remove the two philips screws and that bracket can be lifted up with the coil, allowing the shaft to be pulled out of the coil at an angle.

#87 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from PinMonk:
Yes. Remove the two philips screws and that bracket can be lifted up with the coil, allowing the shaft to be pulled out of the coil at an angle.

Sighs... that's a tight fit... okay...

#88 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

Let me just make shift an L screw driver real quick... =P

#89 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

Well...any way...

Hopefully this is what it is... It "makes sense" that it is right because without that the plastic piece making contact .. coil doesn't get triggered and so on.

Thanks for your help!

#90 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

Actually, I just must be tired.

There's no "head" on the pin. It's just a circle on both sides.

Shouldn't I be concerned that this could happen again?

EDIT: I guess not. We don't know how it looked before...

#91 5 years ago

VIC

PinMonk

https://www.amazon.com/Tekz-45342-Roll-Pin-Assortment/dp/B0069TW9D2/ref=sr_1_3

Quoted from joseph5185:
Actually, I just must be tired.
There's no "head" on the pin. It's just a circle on both sides.
Shouldn't I be concerned that this could happen again?
EDIT: I guess not. We don't know how it looked before...

Pressure holds the pin in. It doesn't have a head and neither end should be sticking out once it's pressed through.

#92 5 years ago

RST

rs812

Inactive member

11y 72,550 1,072

Its a roll pin. If the pin won’t stay in due to loss of tension in the roll, you can buy a new one at almost any hardware store. Or, you can buy a full assortment of different sizes to keep on hand.

You can also buy a punch set to make installing them a whole bunch easier. The punch set is used in gunsmithing to prevent scratches while inserting roll pins.

https://www.amazon.com/TuffMan-Tools-Pin-Punch-9pc/dp/B01F5JC2I8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa

#93 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

Quoted from rs812:
Its a roll pin. If the pin won’t stay in due to loss of tension in the roll, you can buy a new one at almost any hardware store. Or, you can buy a full assortment of different sizes to keep on hand.
amazon.com link »
You can also buy a punch set to make installing them a whole bunch easier. The punch set is used in gunsmithing to prevent scratches while inserting roll pins.
amazon.com link »

I appreciate that. I'm having hell pushing this thing through...

#94 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

I may be the only one who had this issue.

Lucky me... haha

I almost feel like these things weren't designed to go in without some sort of tool.

#95 5 years ago

RST

rs812

Inactive member

11y 72,550 1,072

The punches make it super easy! The tips of them go into the end of the roll pin and keep it going in square to the part. Sort of eliminates that uneasy feeling you get from the “hit and hope” method

Your not the only one with this problem. The SE that I had had the same issue. Had to replace the roll pin on the lower left flipper after about 5 plays. More complexing, however, was the fact that the upper playfield flippers were wired backwards. Frustrating, but I got all the problems worked through. Then sold it and bought a CE less than a week later . Love this game!

#96 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

Wow... yea

Alright.

I'm going to bed..

What a loooooooooong night..

I guess this is just another thing I'm going to need eventually anyways .. On a plus, pretty sure PinMonk helped me understand why my left flipper wasn't working. Loose roll pin...when I went to loosen the nut for the flipper the whole pawl assembly or w/e came apart. Seeing how impossible it is to get one of these things through, I for the life of me don't understand how this happened in the first place.

I scratched this thing to hell with pliers or various other failed techniques.

Anyway, learned some more stuff for sure.

One day closer to playing again... hopefully!

Wow...

#97 5 years ago

JAS

Schabs81

Inactive member

10y 46,050 769 9

Quoted from joseph5185:
Wow... yea
Alright.
I'm going to bed..
What a loooooooooong night..
I guess this is just another thing I'm going to need eventually anyways .. On a plus, pretty sure vireland helped me understand why my left flipper wasn't working. Loose roll pin...when I went to loosen the nut for the flipper the whole pawl assembly or w/e came apart. Seeing how impossible it is to get one of these things through, I for the life of me don't understand how this happened in the first place.
I scratched this thing to hell with pliers or various other failed techniques.
Anyway, learned some more stuff for sure.
One day closer to playing again... hopefully!
Wow...

Who is your distributor ? Maybe have a conversation with them prolly get new parts

#98 5 years ago

JMD

joseph5185

Pinside member

Quoted from Schabs81:
Who is your distributor ? Maybe have a conversation with them prolly get new parts

Does anyone know what size roll pin this is?

It's pretty small..

It's probably fine to use as is, but maybe get a new one just for the hell of it since I did scratch this one up because it's pretty impossible not to.

#99 5 years ago

BAD

BC_Gambit

PinMod Industries

Unknown

11y 70,550 3,532

Quoted from joseph5185:
Does anyone know what size roll pin this is?
It's pretty small..
It's probably fine to use as is, but maybe get a new one just for the hell of it since I did scratch this one up because it's pretty impossible not to.

This style of plunger and link assembly is cheap and pretty widely available. I would honestly just hit up your distributor for one or buy one. Especially if you are new to pinball.

"Old timers" like myself may enjoy spending 2 hours trying to fix a 10 dollar part, but really, if you just want to get your game fixed, get a new one. Your game may be down for a few days but your sanity is worth it IMO.

#100 5 years ago

VIC

PinMonk