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(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech


By vireland

1 year ago



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  • Latest reply 19 hours ago by Mrsiyufy
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There are 3277 posts in this topic. You are on page 57 of 66.
#2801 8 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Yes they should have them and also offer a free protector plastic to cover that in the future. Good luck.

The part number for the opto protector is 30-100043-00

#2802 8 months ago
Quoted from HeavyMetalPoet:

I was having trouble with my spinners on the black pearl and come to find that the left and right spinner opto’s are completely destroyed! Does anyone know where I can get replacements? Are parts available through Jersey Jack with the move To Illinois and the Covid-19 epidemic? Part # 18-005003-00.[quoted image]

A long time ago I called and asked for the opto protector part. Support said he’d put the request in and it would be sent. Never received it though.

Hopefully they’ll send you one but if not here is a link to a good mod that does double duty as a protector for those optos. I’m not big into mods but I got this one for the opto protection.

https://pinballmods.co/Stand-up-illuminated-window-jjp-potc

#2803 8 months ago
Quoted from dts:

Ok, I'll give that a shot!

Check the gap on the switch to the right of the pop bumpers (the one you have to hit for extra ball).

You can also go into switch test mode and then close the coin door and bang away on the flippers to create the condition that's registering a switch.

#2804 8 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Wires are being stretched when playfield is lowered. Maybe wiggle the black plastic tubes with the wires in them behind the playfield. And be sure they move or have a little slack.
LTG : )

Good call, Lloyd! Not sure why the wiring harness would do that but moving it seems to be working so far!

Quoted from vireland:

Check the gap on the switch to the right of the pop bumpers (the one you have to hit for extra ball).
You can also go into switch test mode and then close the coin door and bang away on the flippers to create the condition that's registering a switch.

I’ll check that next if this happens again. Thank you!

#2805 8 months ago

So this morning I needed to move my machine for the first time (only about 10-12 feet) but we did need to fold down the backbox. I thought I was careful enough but when I turned it back on I found this error on the screen:

"Trough error: All optos active. Check connectors, switches, and 12V supply to playfield."

That seems like a big range of potential issues. Any guidance on where I should specifically start or look for?

IMG_2893 (resized).JPG
#2806 8 months ago
Quoted from Galooch:

So this morning I needed to move my machine for the first time (only about 10-12 feet) but we did need to fold down the backbox. I thought I was careful enough but when I turned it back on I found this error on the screen:
"Trough error: All optos active. Check connectors, switches, and 12V supply to playfield."
That seems like a big range of potential issues. Any guidance on where I should specifically start or look for?[quoted image]

Easy I believe. Most had this issue on delivery. The 3 plugs right side lower board likely got pulled from there socket as they installed far to many zip ties on that bundle. My guess is your pins will be bent now but no worries. Good luck.

#2807 8 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Easy I believe. Most had this issue on delivery. The 3 plugs right side lower board likely got pulled from there socket as they installed far to many zip ties on that bundle. My guess is your pins will be bent now but no worries. Good luck.

Thanks Yelobird...sorry to be a noob but could you provide a few more specifics on which three plugs? I scoured the entire trough area and all around but could seem to locate which ones you might be referring to.

#2808 8 months ago
Quoted from Galooch:

Thanks Yelobird...sorry to be a noob but could you provide a few more specifics on which three plugs? I scoured the entire trough area and all around but could seem to locate which ones you might be referring to.

It’s the board right side in the back box behind the monitor. No issues below the Playfield. Several including myself posted pics in the POTC owners thread. Consider looking at the picture gallery in that thread. You got this!

#2809 8 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

It’s the board right side in the back box behind the monitor. No issues below the Playfield. Several including myself posted pics in the POTC owners thread. Consider looking at the picture gallery in that thread. You got this!

Ahhh...thanks! Having a look now. Fingers crossed

#2810 8 months ago

Thank you Yelobird! That did the trick and we are back in business!

This is seriously why Pinside is the best community. For a new pinball owner like myself, you guys are so great! Thank you again for taking time to help other folks, no matter how simple. I hope I can do the same for others as I keep learning.

#2811 8 months ago
Quoted from Galooch:

I hope I can do the same for others as I keep learning.

Your time will come.

As you learn the day will come when you can help others. And if everybody keeps doing this. Pinball stays strong and healthy.

LTG : )

#2812 8 months ago

Welp, trying to do an update with an ISO file, and I'm having consistent errors.

I've tried two different sticks, two different ports even, two burn programs, redownloaded ISO's, and still. Nada.

Anyone ever encounter errors like this?

And the correct usb input on the PC is just behind the cryto key, yes?

20200328_223857 (resized).jpg20200328_223915 (resized).jpg
#2813 8 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Anyone ever encounter errors like this?

Others have.

Have you done a full install before ?

Things people run into ( even if you already tried them ) bad download, try from the other mirror site. USB stick - keep trying different brands 8GB to 16GB nothing else on it formatted to FAT32. Skipping a step or two and not getting it on the USB stick right. Trying the Delta method of install instead of the correct Full Install.

Your USB cable looks plugged in right. You can plug the USB stick into any open port on the motherboard.

LTG : )

#2814 8 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Others have.
Have you done a full install before ?
Things people run into ( even if you already tried them ) bad download, try from the other mirror site. USB stick - keep trying different brands 8GB to 16GB nothing else on it formatted to FAT32. Skipping a step or two and not getting it on the USB stick right. Trying the Delta method of install instead of the correct Full Install.
Your USB cable looks plugged in right. You can plug the USB stick into any open port on the motherboard.
LTG : )

.99 is a full install, yes?

Is the Delta file even available on the site anymore?

Thank you, as always Lloyd.

#2815 8 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Is the Delta file even available on the site anymore?

No. ( and if it were, it wouldn't help with what went wrong and what you have going on now, full install is the only way out )

Quoted from wesman:

.99 is a full install, yes?

Yes.

And many times I've seen people mix up which way to do which.

LTG : )

#2816 8 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Others have.
Have you done a full install before ?
USB stick - keep trying different brands 8GB to 16GB nothing else on it
LTG : )

Remember not to use larger than 16GB. I had an issue with 8GB - perhaps being "almost" too small? But 16GB worked perfectly.

#2817 7 months ago

Has anyone created a how to on replacing the chapter select sling rubber?

#2818 7 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Has anyone created a how to on replacing the chapter select sling rubber?

I don't recall a specific "how to" step-by-step guide for it, but it's definitely been discussed in general. You have to take the Pearl off in order to remove the plastic above the sling. When you do go to make the change to the sling, if your machine doesn't already have a post sleeve on the post at the left front entrance to the star map area (the same post the sling rubber connects to) you might want to put a sleeve on it. Putting the sleeve on requires the same steps to remove the Pearl and the plastic, so you might as well do it while you're there anyway. The sleeve then protects the corner of that sling rubber from direct hits so it won't need to be changed very often.

#2819 7 months ago

For those of you with the chest mod, I just posted over on that thread looking for some help. If you don't mind, take a look and give me some guidance.

Thanks!

#2820 7 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

I don't recall a specific "how to" step-by-step guide for it, but it's definitely been discussed in general. You have to take the Pearl off in order to remove the plastic above the sling. When you do go to make the change to the sling, if your machine doesn't already have a post sleeve on the post at the left front entrance to the star map area (the same post the sling rubber connects to) you might want to put a sleeve on it. Putting the sleeve on requires the same steps to remove the Pearl and the plastic, so you might as well do it while you're there anyway. The sleeve then protects the corner of that sling rubber from direct hits so it won't need to be changed very often.

Yep black pearl coming off is a given for right side. Left side do you have to remove the chest? Or is it just the shield plastics. I'll figure it out, just trying to determine how much time I'm going to need. I actually dont have to replace the rubber yet as the game is like new, but I need to adjust leaf switches that are far too tight.

#2821 7 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Yep black pearl coming off is a given for right side. Left side do you have to remove the chest? Or is it just the shield plastics. I'll figure it out, just trying to determine how much time I'm going to need. I actually dont have to replace the rubber yet as the game is like new, but I need to adjust leaf switches that are far too tight.

I don't remember having to remove the chest, but definitely had to at least loosen the screw that holds the chest to the playfield and loosen the nut on the chest bracket near the star map area in order to remove the plastic over the star map (as well as the metal plate over the sling). I don't remember any of it being too challenging or difficult mechanically to do, just very time consuming for me because I tend to go slow to make sure I don't miss anything or mess something up. If you're lifting the plastic cover to adjust those leaf switches, you might want to get that post sleeve in there at the same time. Shouldn't add too much additional time to the job and would save you from needing to do it all again when the corner of the sling rubber wears out.

#2822 7 months ago

Ok, so I've never rebuilt a flipper before and the left flipper is sticking on the Black Pearl.

The coil sleeve size is 2 3/16" in the manual. Can someone please link me the Marco part to make sure I get it right? This is also the first time I'm taking off the upper playfield. Trial by fire I guess...

#2823 7 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

Ok, so I've never rebuilt a flipper before and the left flipper is sticking on the Black Pearl.
The coil sleeve size is 2 3/16" in the manual. Can someone please link me the Marco part to make sure I get it right? This is also the first time I'm taking off the upper playfield. Trial by fire I guess...

It may not need replacement. I had a Pearl flipper sticking and it needed the pawl nut loosened so the plunger had a clean angle of attack into the sleeve. Can also remove and clean the sleeve.

#2824 7 months ago

This one? (He asks hopefully)

20200401_171310 (resized).jpg
#2825 7 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

This one? (He asks hopefully)[quoted image]

If the left flipper is the one sticking, yep! Loosen it, slide the assembly vertically until you can feel the plunger work with no resistance, then tighten it back down (hard)

#2826 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

If the left flipper is the one sticking, yep! Loosen it, slide the assembly vertically until you can feel the plunger work with no resistance, then tighten it back down (hard)

Awesome, thank you sir!

#2827 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

If the left flipper is the one sticking, yep! Loosen it, slide the assembly vertically until you can feel the plunger work with no resistance, then tighten it back down (hard)

I noticed this same left flipper on my BP was a little sticky too - but only because I manually manipulated it and found out that way. It is still working normal during game play, but I'm definitely concerned. So thanks for posting this! I'll work on it this week as well. : )

#2828 7 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

This one? (He asks hopefully)[quoted image]

By the way your map hole snubber has a gangster lean from the L bracket under it. Might wanna fix that whenever you add cliffys or replace the chapter select rubbers.

#2829 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

By the way your map hole snubber has a gangster lean from the L bracket under it. Might wanna fix that whenever you add cliffys or replace the chapter select rubbers.

Good eye!

I wonder where it's firing to.

#2830 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Good eye!
I wonder where it's firing to.

I do believe thats an enter only hole..... no firing out.

#2831 7 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I do believe thats an enter only hole..... no firing out.

Correct I've seen that leaning snubber on several machines now. It could be in my head, but it feels like the shot sinks better when it's flat as it should be.

#2832 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

By the way your map hole snubber has a gangster lean from the L bracket under it. Might wanna fix that whenever you add cliffys or replace the chapter select rubbers.

I'll keep it in mind when I take the ship off. It's working fine, so no need to jump on it now i think.

#2833 7 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I do believe thats an enter only hole..... no firing out.

Doh! That's what I get for reading posts after 4 hours of sleep...

Yeah, subway action is where that's at.

#2834 7 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I do believe thats an enter only hole..... no firing out.

Don't do it Lloyd. Don't post something funny in reference to that one liner.

LTG : )

#2835 7 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Don't do it Lloyd. Don't post something funny in reference to that one liner.
LTG : )

Come on, I even baited the hook for you! lol

#2836 7 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Yes they should have them and also offer a free protector plastic to cover that in the future. Good luck.

So I called Jersey Jack and talked to Steve and ordered new optos which I received yesterday and installed them and played a few games yesterday and today and saw a little piece of plastic on the pearl and thought crap here we go again!
The new optos didn’t even make it 24hrs. I have Pinball Mods illuminated stand up window which from what I can see completely protects them. From what I can tell it seems like the plastic they are made from is really brittle. I would be shocked if someone else has not had this issue! Any suggestions or fixes would be great! The optos themselves seem fine I just think the mounting shroud that they are in is to thin and brittle. This is the worst time for this game to be down considering being forced to be home and not going anywhere.

4AAA2FCD-46E5-4D0A-8BD7-2E57C6A78AAF (resized).jpegC78C0E05-9B71-4D47-9062-926BD14A68F7 (resized).jpegFFC1F0A7-3A69-4C9E-8F6B-1AAE7F11D893 (resized).jpeg
#2837 7 months ago
Quoted from HeavyMetalPoet:

So I called Jersey Jack and talked to Steve and ordered new optos which I received yesterday and installed them and played a few games yesterday and today and saw a little piece of plastic on the pearl and thought crap here we go again!
The new optos didn’t even make it 24hrs. I have Pinball Mods illuminated stand up window which from what I can see completely protects them. From what I can tell it seems like the plastic they are made from is really brittle. I would be shocked if someone else has not had this issue! Any suggestions or fixes would be great! The optos themselves seem fine I just think the mounting shroud that they are in is to thin and brittle. This is the worst time for this game to be down considering being forced to be home and not going anywhere.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

There is a plastic opto shield from JJP. You need that.

#2838 7 months ago
Quoted from HeavyMetalPoet:

So I called Jersey Jack and talked to Steve and ordered new optos which I received yesterday and installed them and played a few games yesterday and today and saw a little piece of plastic on the pearl and thought crap here we go again!
The new optos didn’t even make it 24hrs. I have Pinball Mods illuminated stand up window which from what I can see completely protects them. From what I can tell it seems like the plastic they are made from is really brittle. I would be shocked if someone else has not had this issue! Any suggestions or fixes would be great! The optos themselves seem fine I just think the mounting shroud that they are in is to thin and brittle. This is the worst time for this game to be down considering being forced to be home and not going anywhere.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Have you watched to see how the ball is coming at that spot out of the VUK? After reading your post I just played a bit and when a ball went to the VUK I went to that side and watched how it came out. Mine came pretty much straight down onto the deck with very little hop. Maybe adjusting your coil power for the VUK or adjusting end of the VUK that guides the ball down would help? It would probably help to know how the ball is landing and hitting that area when it comes out of the VUK though.

#2839 7 months ago

Add the protector and lower the coil strength of the VUK.

#2840 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

There is a plastic opto shield from JJP. You need that.

I got the opto guard from jjp but I have pinball mods illuminated stand up window that covers the entire front and back of the optos. So I don’t see how they could get hit. Even Steve found it odd that both optos would have gotten broke. Once again both got broke. They were crumbling even after I removed them.

#2841 7 months ago
Quoted from HeavyMetalPoet:

I got the opto guard from jjp but I have pinball mods illuminated stand up window that covers the entire front and back of the optos. So I don’t see how they could get hit. Even Steve found it odd that both optos would have gotten broke. Once again both got broke. They were crumbling even after I removed them.

Really weird. I don’t run the mod but I do run the JJP shield and it’s pretty stout. I haven’t had a bashed opto since.

#2842 7 months ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

My auto launcher is mis-firing a good bit during multi-ball and I'm stumped. It always works after a try or two. I've checked all the typical issues. It works perfect with the playfield down and apron on during the trough test mode - 30 for 30. Seems like the issue always, or almost always, occurs during multi-ball and not during ball save re-launch. The launch forks are centered on the ball. The shooter rod is slightly off center but has plenty of clearance from the auto-launcher. The machine is level top to bottom and sloped @ 6.5. The autolauncher has some side-to-side play but nothing unusual and still has good clearance even when pushed right or left. The coil settings are factory. It's also not an issue of the ball bouncing around in the shooter lane or hitting the small post rubber. I have the Koop shooter mod installed so cannot easily video during game play. Appreciate any other ideas?

I have had massive problems with my auto launcher as well. And it only happens during multiball. The auto launcher is hitting the bracket underneath the playfield and actually hitting the wood next to the shooters lane.

I used to have heaps of problems with the auto launcher but fixed it for months by adding a thin washer to the bracket on the right. This reduced the lateral play and all was good.

Now it has come back only during multiball.

The auto launcher sounds a loud bang and the ball has little movement.

The wireform rails are flat. Coil is good, stop is good. When I took it all apart recently to reinvestigate the problem went away for a week, then it started happening again. Weird thing is when I move the plunger as far down into the solenoid as it will travel, the auto launcher does not hit the playfield or bracket. Yet there are marks there and I can hear it hitting something.

Here is a photo that shows where it hits as well as the washer I added and the wireform.
image (resized).jpg

#2843 7 months ago

Ok. After doing more tests, it always hits the bracket and playfield during testing with no ball resting there.

As others have said in the past, it’s almost as if during multiball the auto launcher is triggering before the ball is resting correctly against the tines. It’s not as though multiball is frantic and fast in launching balls. This game is the slowest at launching balls out of my other machines (to the point that ball save times can be next to useless).

I know others have reported this issue. Any ideas?

EDIT: the manual plunger is a couple of mm back from the ball so not touching it. I wonder if the switch needs to be adjusted down?

#2844 7 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Ok. After doing more tests, it always hits the bracket and playfield during testing with no ball resting there.
As others have said in the past, it’s almost as if during multiball the auto launcher is triggering before the ball is resting correctly against the tines. It’s not as though multiball is frantic and fast in launching balls. This game is the slowest at launching balls out of my other machines (to the point that ball save times can be next to useless).
I know others have reported this issue. Any ideas?
EDIT: the manual plunger is a couple of mm back from the ball so not touching it. I wonder if the switch needs to be adjusted down?

Adjust switch or switch arm down to trigger a bit later.

#2845 7 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Adjust switch or switch arm down to trigger a bit later.

Thanks Dave. That fixed it. Awesome. So appreciative.

Enjoying multiballs again. Just had a great session where the ball off the flipper pushed another ball up and around the maelstrom. Great game when it works!!! But it is also the one that has given me the most heartache (this issue forced me back on pinside)

vireland can you key the fix that Dave gave. I have seen multiple pinsiders report this but this is the first time I have seen the solution documented.

Thanks again.

#2846 7 months ago

eaglepin big thanks for fixing my I lane drains from the depths. Putting a bit of packing between the bumper stop and the plunger fixed it.

zaphx I saw you we’re having problems with this a while ago. This has fixed it for me.

image (resized).jpg
#2847 7 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

eaglepin big thanks for fixing my I lane drains from the depths. Putting a bit of packing between the bumper stop and the plunger fixed it.
zaphx I saw you we’re having problems with this a while ago. This has fixed it for me.[quoted image]

Can you elaborate on what kind of “packing” you used and how much? Perhaps a couple pics from the side?

What is the theory behind this fix? Thanks!

#2848 7 months ago

I used window packers. I think I used 3 bits. Each was 1.5mm. Then wrapped them up in electrical tape around the rubber stop.

As eaglepin so excellently discovered reducing the throw of the plunger means less spin can occur from strong plunges.

If you pack too much then the ball wont fit next to the plunger in the depths. You’ll know because it won’t detect the ball. If you do too little then the problem isn’t fixed.

Here are the window packers. I use these heaps. Also you may need to adjust your VUK power. Mine is up by 2 to 16. You might have to be set differently.

It does mean the lockout is slightly slower but at least it doesn’t hit that infernal gate and then drain.
Thanks again eaglepin !!

image (resized).jpg
#2849 7 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

I used window packers. I think I used 3 bits. Each was 1.5mm. Then wrapped them up in electrical tape around the rubber stop.
As eaglepin so excellently discovered reducing the throw of the plunger means less spin can occur from strong plunges.
If you pack too much then the ball wont fit next to the plunger in the depths. You’ll know because it won’t detect the ball. If you do too little then the problem isn’t fixed.
Here are the window packers. I use these heaps. Also you may need to adjust your VUK power. Mine is up by 2 to 16. You might have to be set differently.
It does mean the lockout is slightly slower but at least it doesn’t hit that infernal gate and then drain.
Thanks again eaglepin !![quoted image]

Thank you!

#2850 7 months ago

I must have been the only one that didn’t know what a window packer is? lol

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