Here are my audio pops. Music 50 all mix levels 20.
My suggestion is to isolate the audio board. Plug headphones or powered computer speakers in to the green audio out on the motherboard. IF the clipping still happens then it is from the motherboard/OS/CPU side of things. Otherwise it's the audio board.
If you have installed the latest code and it's still happening then it seems JJP owes you one of those two solutions.
I tried to test also using the headphone jack at the front and only getting left channel. Maybe I knocked a wire out near the coin door. Normal iPhone headphones should work shouldn’t they?
Quoted from gumnut01:I tried to test also using the headphone jack at the front and only getting left channel. Maybe I knocked a wire out near the coin door. Normal iPhone headphones should work shouldn’t they?
Yes. Common problems for one channel can be physical connection (anyone of the several joints between two cables) as the channel rings have to all mate up well. There are cases of incompatible cables/sockets with different number of channels or barrel size. But all that being equal, you should able to use common headphones.
You can check in the door and back at the origination, maybe the audio board? I don't think I've seen where the aux jack comes from, maybe directly at the mobo?
But even with one channel, does the clipping happen?
Would still want to know what happens plugged in to the mobo directly.
Yep I will try. Hey thanks so much for listening to my pops and crackles Harry. Good to know it’s not normal. Hope I get a reply from Jjp soon. Will let u know what I find out when I use the connection to the green socket.
Quoted from gumnut01:So no one else has the pops and crackles (like small little interrupt hiccups) happening at certain times in the audio?
I did have the frustrating audio pops.
Solved it by unplugging this connector.
My headphones don’t work anymore but the sound over the speakers is crystal clear now.
Quoted from Mr_G_Hosting:I did have the frustrating audio pops.
Solved it by unplugging this connector.
My headphones don’t work anymore but the sound over the speakers is crystal clear now.[quoted image]
Interesting, thanks for sharing! I've linked your solution to the trouble index on the first post.
Quoted from Mr_G_Hosting:I did have the frustrating audio pops.
Solved it by unplugging this connector.
My headphones don’t work anymore but the sound over the speakers is crystal clear now.[quoted image]
Thank you!!! Just finished doing this same fix that Steve from support sent me. Thank you for posting. Sounds so good now!!!!
I guess I have no headphones either now..... oh well. Will let you know if they send me something to fix the headphones.
Quoted from gumnut01:Thank you!!! Just finished doing this same fix that Steve from support sent me. Thank you for posting. Sounds so good now!!!!
I guess I have no headphones either now..... oh well. Will let you know if they send me something to fix the headphones.
Sounds like another linux kernel bug. Great.
Since I adjusted my tortuga scoop, it seems to be going back to closer to between the flippers rather than middle of left flipper. I think the problem is you can’t get the deflector down tight enough. Took it off, and noticed rippling around the metal plate. Now a cliffy May resolve all this, but I hopefully solved the moving tortuga once and for all.
1. 2 neoprene washers to grip to the playfield and cover my ripples
2. 2 m6 star washers under the screws to stop them from loosening and the plate from moving
I do have a bit of the washers showing now, but if my tortuga kickouts don’t creep over time, I’m happy!
053321BB-6A53-4553-A3B0-D57850F9DC9E (resized).jpeg1D81D8EE-319B-4C9C-BF13-306960626AB4 (resized).jpeg85B20700-9EAF-480C-A841-DADFACC36DAA (resized).jpegD1BA5434-9F9B-498A-9BE0-B0C9D03D26B5 (resized).jpegQuoted from gumnut01:Since I adjusted my tortuga scoop, it seems to be going back to closer to between the flippers rather than middle of left flipper. I think the problem is you can’t get the deflector down tight enough. Took it off, and noticed rippling around the metal plate. Now a cliffy May resolve all this, but I hopefully solved the moving tortuga once and for all.
1. 2 neoprene washers to grip to the playfield and cover my ripples
2. 2 m6 star washers under the screws to stop them from loosening and the plate from moving
I do have a bit of the washers showing now, but if my tortuga kickouts don’t creep over time, I’m happy![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
On your second photo in, I've noticed indentations like that as well when lifting parts.
I know when I placed the gummy washers on the slings months back, within 3 hours, and not even playing it, it started to leave faint impressions.
Are your kickouts more to the left flipper now? My snubber bracket doesn't seem super tight either. It'll wobble a bit on some shots in, even with a Cliffy installed.
Yep it sticks to the middle of the left for now. If it progresses back to the very tip, I will let you know. Hopefully the rubber pushes the wave down a bit and stops it from chipping. Maybe star washers alone will fix your diverter from creeping, your cliffys should protect what’s happened to me I guess.
Quoted from gumnut01:Since I adjusted my tortuga scoop, it seems to be going back to closer to between the flippers rather than middle of left flipper. I think the problem is you can’t get the deflector down tight enough. Took it off, and noticed rippling around the metal plate. Now a cliffy May resolve all this, but I hopefully solved the moving tortuga once and for all.
1. 2 neoprene washers to grip to the playfield and cover my ripples
2. 2 m6 star washers under the screws to stop them from loosening and the plate from moving
I do have a bit of the washers showing now, but if my tortuga kickouts don’t creep over time, I’m happy![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Great idea! I ended up using blue loctite on those screws but may try this if it loosens again.
YA Tortuga really needs loctite. This is the spot where I have significant chipping. In 1500 plays or so I have had to tighten tortuga scoop 3-4 times now. Every time it was tightened the gummy bear got worse. This last time a big chunk of it came off. Long story short im pretty sure every time i tightened the scoop it pushed more of the clearcoat out and less clearcoat under part means loose part.
Quoted from GnarLee:YA Tortuga really needs loctite. This is the spot where I have significant chipping. In 1500 plays or so I have had to tighten tortuga scoop 3-4 times now. Every time it was tightened the gummy bear got worse. This last time a big chunk of it came off. Long story short im pretty sure every time i tightened the scoop it pushed more of the clearcoat out and less clearcoat under part means loose part.
I haven't had to adjust it since loctiting it. Fires into the top of the left flipper consistently. Up to around 3200 plays so far.
Quoted from zaphX:I haven't had to adjust it since loctiting it. Fires into the top of the left flipper consistently. Up to around 3200 plays so far.
Yes, when it starts firing SDTM it basically has just come loose. Tightening it up fixes it. Definitely needs loctite for long term play.
Quoted from PinMonk:Yes, when it starts firing SDTM it basically has just come loose. Tightening it up fixes it. Definitely needs loctite for long term play.
Does a Cliffy there help hold things in place better?
Quoted from wesman:Does a Cliffy there help hold things in place better?
Not really because it's the screws holding the cliffy and the guide in place that come VERY LOOSE.
Quoted from harryhoudini:If it isn't firing right you might also make sure you have the updated (longer) snubber bracket.
I do believe I have the longest snubber available. It's so long it snubs me on my drive into work! Rotten snubber....
I'm pretty sure I do. Had heard about this issue a month or so ago. My game was produced in late January, so I got the best snubbage possible, from what I think.
I did go ahead and lower the kickout a bit, and it's maybe too limp now.
Quoted from harryhoudini:If it isn't firing right you might also make sure you have the updated (longer) snubber bracket.
I have the shorter snubber...I need to request that longer one (which my Los Gatos machine had.) Also need to request the opto bash protector. Will get all this dealt with at some point, so far neither are causing me an issue though.
Quoted from zaphX:I have the shorter snubber...I need to request that longer one (which my Los Gatos machine had.) Also need to request the opto bash protector. Will get all this dealt with at some point, so far neither are causing me an issue though.
I only heard about that opto protector after picking up HH's wicked Pearl door. Figure I'll use that instead.
It looks good, doesn't it zaphX?
Quoted from wesman:I only heard about that opto protector after picking up HH's wicked Pearl door. Figure I'll use that instead.
It looks good, doesn't it zaphX?
Huh. Harry has favourites. I see.
Quoted from gumnut01:Huh. Harry has favourites. I see.
No. *ordered* the door/window (call it what you want!)... none have shipped yet!
Quoted from gumnut01:Huh. Harry has favourites. I see.
Quoted from harryhoudini:No. *ordered* the door/window (call it what you want!)... none have shipped yet!
Yeah, I'm still messing around with my order. I ordered the door, but need to cancel/add more stuff into a new order.
If I don't set my mind soon, I'll be more the opposite of a "favourite".
For the issue of the chest fork tips poking up through the playfield and catching balls - does anyone have a fix for this?
I decided the washer fix I implemented (and documented) was causing too many rejected shots. I removed it as a test and sure enough my scores improved...but the stuck balls came back also.
I think I remember someone doing something else to solve this?
Quoted from zaphX:For the issue of the chest fork tips poking up through the playfield and catching balls - does anyone have a fix for this?
I decided the washer fix I implemented (and documented) was causing too many rejected shots. I removed it as a test and sure enough my scores improved...but the stuck balls came back also.
I think I remember someone doing something else to solve this?
Could you remind me what symptoms you are seeing? I don't have any input, lol, just wondering what happens. When the forks are too high does the chest lane just kick the ball back instead of letting it through? And for the rejected shots, what happened? Did the ball travel up the forks and hit the gate or top of the curved guide?
Quoted from harryhoudini:Could you remind me what symptoms you are seeing? I don't have any input, lol, just wondering what happens. When the forks are too high does the chest lane just kick the ball back instead of letting it through? And for the rejected shots, what happened? Did the ball travel up the forks and hit the gate or top of the curved guide?
The ball passes through fine, but sometimes if the shot is weak enough it gets trapped under the chest.
When it was rejecting heavily, it hits the forks and doesn't make it up, returning to the player. Always a possibility with a weak shot, but it was notably worse with the washer in place. It changed the angle of fork attack.
Thanks. I had some issues when I replaced the chest bracket. Alignment of all of those parts is pretty key, it seems, for a reliable shot. Hopefully someone has a suggestion.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Thanks. I had some issues when I replaced the chest bracket. Alignment of all of those parts is pretty key, it seems, for a reliable shot. Hopefully someone has a suggestion.
Maybe I just need to break the loctite on the forks and reposition them. I'll look at that.
Maybe this has been addressed. I checked the initial post and didnt see this.
But CHAPTER 5 Select target in my chapter are is stuck closed. I removed the target and tried to get it to register it will not do anything.
Zach from Flipnout when i was there had this same issue on his.
Quoted from bgwilly31:Maybe this has been addressed. I checked the initial post and didnt see this.
But CHAPTER 5 Select target in my chapter are is stuck closed. I removed the target and tried to get it to register it will not do anything.
Zach from Flipnout when i was there had this same issue on his.
Probably just need to gap that switch. What I'd do:
- Remove the screws for the offending switch from under the playfield
- Using a leaf switch adjustment tool, adjust the contacts from the base of the leaf until it's not stuck any more.
- Replace and test
Fortunately this is an easy fix, aside from needing the leaf tool (which is cheap.) Don't try to do it with needlenose, you will twist the switch. Trust me on this
Quoted from zaphX:Probably just need to gap that switch. What I'd do:
- Remove the screws for the offending switch from under the playfield
- Using a leaf switch adjustment tool, adjust the contacts from the base of the leaf until it's not stuck any more.
- Replace and test
Fortunately this is an easy fix, aside from needing the leaf tool (which is cheap.) Don't try to do it with needlenose, you will twist the switch. Trust me on this
Thanks ZaphX but i did exactly that and couldnt get the switch to respond at all.... If thats the case where do i go from there. Every other chapter select and every other switch in that column is responding and working fine.
Quoted from bgwilly31:Thanks ZaphX but i did exactly that and couldnt get the switch to respond at all.... If thats the case where do i go from there. Every other chapter select and every other switch in that column is responding and working fine.
Stuck closed makes it sound like there is a short somewhere. If it's not the actual switch being pinched together, then maybe it is upstream somewhere.
If you follow the wires from the switch do you see anything unexpected?
Maybe LTG has an idea on how to troubleshoot further?
Quoted from zaphX:Stuck closed makes it sound like there is a short somewhere. If it's not the actual switch being pinched together, then maybe it is upstream somewhere.
If you follow the wires from the switch do you see anything unexpected?
Maybe LTG has an idea on how to troubleshoot further?
Yeah we tried to activate the switch. (Chapter 5 select.) Could not get it to do anything once we had it out. We cleaned the contact points. Then i checked all the other switches in the area. They worked fine.
I briefly did a once over of the wires in the area. And didnt notice anything out of the ordinary at first glance. But im somewhat of a newb when it comes to pinball repair. I just figured since i met another owner with the same problem more people might be having the same issue.
Quoted from bgwilly31:Yeah we tried to activate the switch. (Chapter 5 select.) Could not get it to do anything once we had it out. We cleaned the contact points. Then i checked all the other switches in the area. They worked fine.
I briefly did a once over of the wires in the area. And didnt notice anything out of the ordinary at first glance. But im somewhat of a newb when it comes to pinball repair. I just figured since i met another owner with the same problem more people might be having the same issue.
Unplug that switch from the control board under the playfield and plug a different one in to that port. Does that switch work?
Quoted from zaphX:Maybe I just need to break the loctite on the forks and reposition them. I'll look at that.
Did you fix this?
Quoted from jarozi:Problem: Load cannon door partially blocks shots to the 'LOAD' stand up target making hard / impossible to register a hit to that stand up.
Solution: Add 3 SAE #10 washers to left side door mounting pin (see pic). This will align the door fully left, clearing the stand up, there's lot's of left/right play in this hinge from factory.[quoted image]
Very good tip
Small change, big effect.
Thank you
Hey scallywags ☠️, need your help.
Problem 1:
—- Ball getting stuck on post in starmap
Symptoms: I noticed today that my ball frequently gets sick between the post and left post with runner in the star map area. I looked close at my friends today and it just may be that my posts on that left side are too tall... allowing the ball yo get wedged in between the post and the rubber?
Problem 2:
—- Dead mans chest having issues releasing locked balls when 3 locked
Symptoms:
3 balls locked in chest, chest attempts to release via mini magnet and it just buzzes then stops, buzzed then stops... as balls SLOWLY wiggle their way towards the left exit. Finally after about 10 second they will come out. Interestingly I tested it hand launching them in and works fine totally lost on this one.
LOVE ANY HELP thank you ! Happy 4th
Love any help
Pics of first issue please? Hard to visualize.
When you go in to coil test does the chest release solenoid work in there? Sometimes you have to fiddle with the release arm. Might be catching on something and needs a little bend. It's really easy to bend.
question for y’all regarding photos in the game. I have a pre-owned game. When first playing it, we noticed that in or near attract mode, there would be a scroll of photos of the previous owners photos with corresponding awards. I did reset the high scores so that our family had the ability to have those photos up. Since the high score reset, I have not seen any photos other than those that are taken directly after a score or other award is reached. I do have the following settings:
1. System settings, sound, attract mode sounds and attract mode music both on.
2. Games settings, general, floating scores, yes.
3. Game settings, camera, disable camera, no. Disable high score in Photos, no. Show attract mode camera message, yes. Disable high score photo decorations, no.
4. High score settings, regular high scores, these are all default/factory.
My question is, how do I get the scrolling photos back with corresponding awards? Appreciate any insight. Thank you.
Quoted from SDpinballer:question for y’all regarding photos in the game. I have a pre-owned game. When first playing it, we noticed that in or near attract mode, there would be a scroll of photos of the previous owners photos with corresponding awards. I did reset the high scores so that our family had the ability to have those photos up. Since the high score reset, I have not seen any photos other than those that are taken directly after a score or other award is reached. I do have the following settings:
1. System settings, sound, attract mode sounds and attract mode music both on.
2. Games settings, general, floating scores, yes.
3. Game settings, camera, disable camera, no. Disable high score in Photos, no. Show attract mode camera message, yes. Disable high score photo decorations, no.
4. High score settings, regular high scores, these are all default/factory.
My question is, how do I get the scrolling photos back with corresponding awards? Appreciate any insight. Thank you.
Have you achieved high scores? It should take your picture and show you the poster immediately after entering your initials. Is it?
If it is, they're there, but the scroll is somewhat random. It's always right after the video of the ship sailing into the sunset. So use the right flipper to advance quickly through the attract mode segments, and slow down when you get to the ship, then hit the button once to advance. If you see the scroll, congrats! If you don't, buzz through the attract mode screens with the right flipper again and see if you get the wanted poster scroll after the ship the next time. Sometimes it takes 6 or 8 times through to hit the poster scroll.
It would be nice if Keith built in a wanted poster scroll shortcut in attract mode, like the lockdown bar button 3 times rapidly or something so you can jump straight to it on demand.
Quoted from PinMonk:It would be nice if Keith built in a wanted poster scroll shortcut in attract mode, like the lockdown bar button 3 times rapidly or something so you can jump straight to it on demand.
Yes ploz!
Quoted from Soulrider911:Hey scallywags ☠️, need your help.
Problem 1:
—- Ball getting stuck on post in starmap
Symptoms: I noticed today that my ball frequently gets sick between the post and left post with runner in the star map area. I looked close at my friends today and it just may be that my posts on that left side are too tall... allowing the ball yo get wedged in between the post and the rubber?
Problem 2:
—- Dead mans chest having issues releasing locked balls when 3 locked
Symptoms:
3 balls locked in chest, chest attempts to release via mini magnet and it just buzzes then stops, buzzed then stops... as balls SLOWLY wiggle their way towards the left exit. Finally after about 10 second they will come out. Interestingly I tested it hand launching them in and works fine totally lost on this one.
LOVE ANY HELP thank you ! Happy 4th
Love any help
On condition 1 make sure your drop post is centered and the height is properly adjusted and tight.
On condition 2 can we assume you didn't buy new shiny magnetic balls for your game? Several posters have gone for days trying to adjust every setting only to find out the balls were magnetized. I only ask because doing them by hand works. If that is not the case have you tried adjusting that coil?
Quoted from Yelobird:On condition 1 make sure your drop post is centered and the height is properly adjusted and tight.
On condition 2 can we assume you didn't buy new shiny magnetic balls for your game? Several posters have gone for days trying to adjust every setting only to find out the balls were magnetized. I only ask because doing them by hand works. If that is not the case have you tried adjusting that coil?
So what are the recommended balls?
Quoted from Soulrider911:Hey scallywags ☠️, need your help.
Problem 1:
—- Ball getting stuck on post in starmap
Symptoms: I noticed today that my ball frequently gets sick between the post and left post with runner in the star map area. I looked close at my friends today and it just may be that my posts on that left side are too tall... allowing the ball yo get wedged in between the post and the rubber?
Problem 2:
—- Dead mans chest having issues releasing locked balls when 3 locked
Symptoms:
3 balls locked in chest, chest attempts to release via mini magnet and it just buzzes then stops, buzzed then stops... as balls SLOWLY wiggle their way towards the left exit. Finally after about 10 second they will come out. Interestingly I tested it hand launching them in and works fine totally lost on this one.
LOVE ANY HELP thank you ! Happy 4th
Love any help
Number 2 on your list I had from the get go. Exact symptoms. Small coil behind the chest buzzed but did not create sufficient pull to open the side of the chest to start multi ball. Rotating the small coil always solved it for some reason, but over time the coil would rotate back so the wires were in a different orientation. I solved it permanent by wedging the smallest possible post rubber between the coil wires and the fixing on its left so it can't rotate. Hundreds of perfect games since. I'm no engineer, so can't explain any of that, but I fixed it through trial and error.
Noticed that ramps are attached by screws but not at the bottom of the ramp. So where screws are there is space between ramp plastic and playfield. Would have thought this creates stress on plastic since it is being pulled down by screws but not being supported at that point. Has anyone added support under ramp where screws are?
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