(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech


By vireland

1 year ago



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Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #306 Tip on removing the black pearl Posted by rs812 (1 year ago)

Post #501 More tips on removing black pearl mini playfield Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #1776 Broken trunk mount bracket picture Posted by Soulrider911 (1 year ago)

Post #2470 JJP kit information for doing 220v to 110v conversion. Posted by Vitty (1 year ago)

Post #2844 Auto-launch misfire adjustment. Posted by Yelobird (9 months ago)


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#252 1 year ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

Anybody ever have their slings arm get pushed "outside" of the flipper rubber? I have had that happen a few times on each sling; not sure if changing to white rubbers would help or if there is another fix.

Smaller rubber ring. Or try new ones.

LTG : )

#254 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I do have the star post + washer mod which I was blaming for it,

That might hold the rubber ring a bit too high.

LTG : )

#395 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Is this how much your ship moves (max travel, left to right)?

That looks about right. Less in the beginning, more as you get deeper into the game.

LTG : )

#409 1 year ago
Quoted from doghouse:

Or is it better to

Stick a small blob of hot glue on the bottom of the push button so it's a little larger and won't get stuck on anything.

LTG : )
Disclaimer : That style of switch has side to side play.

#429 1 year ago
Quoted from doghouse:

Sounds like a great idea, if I understand correctly. Put the blob of hot glue on the Philips head screw which comes in contact with the switch?

Yes. In commercial use mine was sticking on the switch blade, and after a bit of hot glue smoothed over with my finger, worked fine ever since.

LTG : )

#431 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Why can’t JJP fix these issues though?

When you consider all the Hobbits and Pirates out there, not that many have needed attention.

Quoted from KornFreak28:

Why does a customer have to hot glue parts to get a game playing like it should?

You don't have to. I'm an op. Get them going. Make them pretty later.

LTG : )

#465 1 year ago
Quoted from lexi:

the flap moves but too quick and pushed the ball to the right

Try playing with the Chest Release Fire Time. Page B-37 in the manual. You can download it from jerseyjackpinball.com under Support - Downloads.

LTG : )

#466 1 year ago
Quoted from lexi:

Has anyone else had this type of issue and is this a common issue??

Tweak things on a brand new game ? Yes.

LTG : )

#499 1 year ago

Coil stops come off. Remove coil. Don't worry about the other end where the metal stop is.

LTG : )

potcpearl (resized).jpgpotcpearlbottom (resized).jpg
#501 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

That's all well and good once I actually get the ship off.

It's not that hard.

To remove completely, below the playfield clip a cable tie or two and unplug a few connectors and three opto connectors coming through a hole below the black pearl. Skip that part to lay it on it's side on the top side of the main playfield, put something down to protect things, like a towel.

Lift playfield up and pull forward and rest on front of cabinet. Behind playfield pull the metal clip off, slide flat metal thing that connects the motor to the black pearl off, and remove the big fat white nylon washer and set somewhere safe.

Between the black pearl and rear wall of the playfield look down, see the 1/8th inch allen head screw - remove it. Grab the black pearl, one hand each side and slide towards rear of game, clearing the two pivot points and lift the whole thing up.

Reverse procedure to put it back in.

LTG : )

#509 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Idk how late you'll be up, but I'll be up all night trying to get this right so I have a playable game again.

https://www.twitch.tv/videos/405272384https://www.twitch.tv/videos/405272384

I'm about ready to call it a day.

LTG : )

#553 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

But I think i had enough for tonight.

These might help you on adjusting the flipper bat :

LTG : )

#561 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

The second one is just talking about making the pawl nut tight and it is tight. It's the fact that the coil rod has less travel and hence can't "flip" as high.

So loosen the pawl nut a little, so the flipper bat barely moves in the pawl, adjust the flipper where you want it. Since the travel is so short, you may need to move the plunger back or forth. Then tighten the pawl nut.

This is easy, don't over think it.

LTG : )

#566 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Any "tips" on aligning the ship with the eyelets

I grab the black pearl one hand each side, have it all the way towards the rear of the game. Lower it. Slide it forward. I just seem to hit the right spot when doing it.

Quoted from joseph5185:

does the hex bolt REALLY need to be as tight as it was from the factory

No, finger tight works.

LTG : )

#587 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I wish Lloyd would comment on this...

No idea.

Your game, put the flippers where you want.

Now pay attention. Turn the left flipper all the way up. At that point the plunger is pulled the whole way into the coil.

Right side. Now loosen the pawl nut a tiny bit so you can with force turn the flipper bat. Pull the plunger the whole way in until it stops on the coil stop. Then move the flipper bat where you want it. Tighten pawl nut. Now both flipper should be the same when retracted or up.

LTG : )

#609 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Well...I'm TRYING to get the ship back on... lol

Be patient. Grab the black pearl with one hand on each side. Have it the whole way back against the rear wall of the playfield. Lower a bit and wiggle up or down a tiny bit so the pivots slide into the bearing holes.

Once on stuff a rag behind it so it doesn't slip back and off, until you get the allen head screw in.

LTG : )

#639 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

. I'd look at that to make sure it didn't get dislodged during reinstallation.

And get the wire colors so you know where to dig around and look for problems like broken wire, connector not plugged in, pin/wire pulled out of connector.

LTG : )

#641 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

that would be FANTASTIC!

Page C-92 shows it coming off of board P6, I'd check that first to see if it's unplugged. Then move on to the connectors below the main playfield that run up to the black pearl.

LTG : )

#654 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

In other news, I don't own a solder gun and I don't know how to solder as I have never done it in my life.

Nobody did at one time or another.

Anybody can learn. If they want to. Youtube is littered with short how to videos. How to heat a joint, flow solder, etc. etc. Practice on scrap wire until you are good. Then if you need to fix something on your game, you won't be practicing on it, you'll be fixing it.

LTG : )

13
#674 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Anyhoo, AFMr just arrived!

Oh lord. I do tech support for them too.

Please don't try and fix anything on that.

LTG : )

#675 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

The switch warnings on boot are normal.

And can be turned off in settings so they don't bug you. Same with the red dot that factory default disables. If you turn the boot warnings off, when you open the coin door and hit the Enter diagnostic button, any errors will be displayed.

LTG : )

1 week later
#778 1 year ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Action button getting stuck.

Getting stuck on the switch ? Put a dab of hot glue on the bottom to give it a wider footprint. Live happily ever after.

LTG : )

#894 1 year ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Can someone post a photo of it out?

LTG : )

pirates subway fix (resized).jpg
#977 1 year ago
Quoted from Asael:

every Fuse-Led is red?

The tiny fuse on some of the LED boards are surface mounted. Green is good, red bad. Only for the tiny ones. The 20mm ones on your I/O board show red when good.

LTG : )

#1060 1 year ago
Quoted from PinPeet:

Or can it be something else?

Bad solder joint at coil or poor connection from the coil to the I/O board. Might need a tiny bit of up/down play on the flipper bat so the pawl under the playfield isn't binding on the nylon bushing, or the coil stop might be leaning in or out and isn't straight up or down.

LTG : )

#1082 1 year ago
Quoted from skyrex:

Any idea what is up?

Bad solder joint or broken wire at the coil lugs. Dig around the thin wires from the coil to the coil lugs for cracks or breaks.

LTG : )

#1132 1 year ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

just an FYI for those people just receiving their machines.

These flipper assemblies are used by a few manufacturers. Wouldn't hurt to check them on any new game.

LTG : )

#1201 1 year ago
Quoted from TZBen:

Bp ship isn’t moving Much to the left side.

There is a thin flat metal piece behind the rear wall of the playfield that hooks the motor to the black pearl. Two screws on it. You can loosen and adjust the metal thing so it isn't too tight.

LTG : )

#1263 1 year ago
Quoted from JamCat:

My cannon doesn’t line up with the dauntless at all. It always hits the back side and will never go in. Which is misaligned?the dauntless or the cannon? Which is easier to adjust?

Post 6315 in this thread.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/127#post-4908779

LTG : )

#1307 1 year ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Aren't they the standard 555 6.3vac bulbs?

No.

LTG : )

#1342 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Anyone else have a REALLY difficult time with that lockdown bar and is it really that important to be perfectly tight.

3 wide body JJP games here, no difficulty.

LTG : )

#1353 1 year ago
Quoted from davisjl1979:

I'm having issues with the black pearl. It was moving fine and then it stopped. Now it does not move at all.

When the game starts the ship goes down on the left side and stays there.

First thing I'd check is the flat metal bar that hooks the motor to the black pearl behind the playfield. There is two screws on it, you might loosen them and adjust if the metal piece is too tight.

LTG : )

#1452 1 year ago
Quoted from jarozi:

Does anyone know how to remove the Black Pear l lamps? I have one that doesn't illuminate very well, I think it's not in contact with the LED below it very well.

This is explained in this thread somewhere.

You need to remove the wall, remove the LED, make the hole bigger, mount the LED back in better.

LTG : )

1 week later
#1627 1 year ago
Quoted from rlslick:

What do I need to look at?

Tighten the screw the red arrow points to. Squishing the rubber grommet it goes through. Lowering the right side of the ramp so it leans that direction.

LTG : )

DSC00679 (resized).JPG
#1632 1 year ago
Quoted from rlslick:

One more thing..I can’t drop my playfield back Into the lock down bar.

Not going back far enough. Miss any styrofoam blocks behind it ? Cables with wires in the wrong spots and preventing it from going back ?

LTG : )

1 week later
#1758 1 year ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Just got a fault switch # 30.turn around switch open . Anyone know where this is

Besides GnarLee's help. You can download the manual from jerseyjackpinball.com - Support - Downloads. Listed on page C-105, pictured on page C-104

LTG : )

1 week later
#1811 1 year ago
Quoted from Heater:

Where is the best way to start and what should I be looking for?

First thing is look carefully if opto popped out or broke. Then loose wires or connectors next.

LTG : )

#1813 1 year ago
Quoted from Heater:

I assume I have to remove the BP?

Maybe not. Check top side and then connectors below the playfield.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#1866 1 year ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

Lube/Oil/Grease is never a proper solution to fix a pin. Just imagine all the coil dust we clean out of our machines, now add in a substance that attracts dust. Proly just needs an adjustment.

And for the love of anything holy. Never hose anything down in a pin with WD40.

LTG : )

#1869 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

That's okay for greasing balls for storage though, yes?

Before use I degrease them with naphtha.

As long as you don't spray them in the game. Yes.

LTG : )

1 week later
#1915 1 year ago
Quoted from Maide:

Is it possible to adjust the stroke length of a slingshot?

You can toss a nut down the coil sleeve. That would limit the plunger travel. Works great on coils that are straight up or down when the game is being played. And if you ever work on it, you might remember why it's in there. If you stick a longer plunger in there and some day replace the plunger, you'll likely forget a longer one is in there and put the original one back in and have the problem again.

LTG : )

nutdrop (resized).JPGnutdrop1 (resized).JPG
#1919 1 year ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

My left slingshot twice now has had the rubber go over top where the slingshot is stuck on outside of rubber.

I'd try a one size smaller ring first.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#1992 1 year ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

I'm trying to figure out "where the forks come up".

Under the chest. Two slots.

Ball rolls under the chest and if the two forks are up, the ball hops up into the trunk. If the two forks are down, the balls keeps rolling through.

LTG : )

#2027 1 year ago
Quoted from Lancelin2k14:

Also any idea where this bit is from?,

Guard inside on the VUK behind the black pearl to keeps balls from dropping back in and roll onto the playfield instead.

Quoted from Lancelin2k14:

How do I fix this hopefully without having to remove the ship?.

Lift playfield up and pull forward and rest on front of the cabinet. Behind the back wall, pull out the clip holding the flat metal thing that connects the motor to the black pearl. Then look between the black pearl and the back wall. See the allenhead bolt sticking up ? Remove it. Lay a towel across the playfield along the left side of the black pearl. Pull the black pearl back off of the two pivot points. Wiggle up and out and rest on the side of the black pearl.

Then get the flipper where you want and tighten it. Reassemble.

Nothing hard.

LTG : )

#2030 1 year ago
Quoted from Lancelin2k14:

Which nut do i tighten to lock the flipper in place?

Yellow arrows point to it.

These may help -

LTG : )

fb54751f0ef8370cc9a5aa5b02911152cf3373ec (resized).jpg
#2037 1 year ago
Quoted from Lancelin2k14:

Any ideas on how to fix?

One size smaller ring might help.

LTG : )

#2039 1 year ago
Quoted from ngg:

any thoughts or things to do for this to work appropriately??

Be sure setting is right, even if you checked. Page B-34 in the manual. Camera - Disable Camera - Set To No to enable. Default is No.

Be sure you aren't holding the right flipper button in when hitting the start button.

LTG : )

#2052 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

In general, people are dumb, especially in bars. Just the trauma of navigating the instructions of entering a high score is exhausting enough, adding another layer once you've succeeded in entering three letters would be too much.

Which is why I set my games to three letters. More than that and they spend forever trying to spell words and make a message that fits.

LTG : )

1 week later
#2071 1 year ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

Thanks for your help.

Hi Tony

Get the new support brackets in there. When you put the black pearl back in, be sure it's the whole way forward then tighten down the allen head bolt in the back. And you may need to tighten down the screw holding the ramp to the hex post on the right side that squeezes the rubber grommet so the ramp leans a little to the right. See attached picture, the red arrow points to the screw.

When you put the brackets in, check that nothing is obstructing the VUK going up. Be sure the gate the ball passes up through moves freely. ( this gate prevents a ball dropping off the black pearl from going back into the VUK ) and in Settings - Coils - try making that VUK stronger.

Thank you,
LTG : )

DSC00679 (resized).JPG
#2074 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Haven't heard about this yet Lloyd. Were new brackets sent out?

Very few of the first games needed new brackets. Maybe less than 20. No other game needs them. I'm sure yours and all other don't. This issue has long since passed.

LTG : )

#2082 1 year ago
Quoted from koops:

Did any of the le’s ever need them then? In Australia we seem to be quite early in the production cycle.

No.

LTG : )

#2108 1 year ago
Quoted from Skipnatty:

I'll check the alignment to see if there's something there as a first glance

Lift playfield up and lean back. Are the screws/rollers on the sides on and tight ? Mech move freely up and down ? Centered in the slots in the playfield and not rubbing on one side. Fork mech at top of plunger - are the two screws on tight ?

LTG : )

1 week later
#2143 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

If not, any idea why this is happening?

Hasn't been hit in 10 games or 30 balls.

Tests - Switches Matrixed, push with finger and see what it does.

LTG : )

#2146 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I doesn’t register with the finger or ball

Pull it out, see if it's stuck closed.

If not, check for broken wire below the black pearl. Then a break from target to I/O board.

LTG : )

#2149 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Can you tell me which is the I/O board?

Long rectangular one in the head. With all the fuses and transistors.

Quoted from KornFreak28:

Sorry I don’t have the manual yet.

You can download it from jerseyjackpinball.com - Support - Downloads - Pirates.

Quoted from KornFreak28:

Sorry, I forgot to point out that before removing the ship, the switch was working fine.

Broken wire between targets most likely then.

LTG : )

#2155 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

like the diode might be reversed

Yes. Clearly facing the wrong direction. And why your switch no worky.

LTG : )

1 week later
#2189 1 year ago
Quoted from Maurice:

How can I test the power to this board?

Two pin connector on each board for power. Red wire +5 volts DC, Black wire ground.

LTG : )

#2194 1 year ago
Quoted from Maurice:

or am I missing something?

Check the pinout for that board in the manual.

LTG : )

#2195 1 year ago
Quoted from Maurice:

or am I missing something?

Page D-14 in the manual, J100 is the +5 and Ground.

Look over the whole board more, opposite end of the blue ethernet cable spot. ( not USB )

LTG : )

#2198 1 year ago
Quoted from Maurice:

Should J100 have a cable connected to it?

According to the manual, yes. Power has to come from somewhere.

LTG : )

4 weeks later
#2267 1 year ago
Quoted from Izzy24:

The other side has 2 empty holes to mount, but no screws and spacers like on the other side.

Laying in the bottom of the cabinet somewhere.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#2282 1 year ago
Quoted from jcoble:

My pirates died last night. When you power it on, the lights flicker once and then... Nothing. No boot cycle, nada.

Quoted from bigdaddy07:

My pirates won't power up anymore either. Just hums and the red lights in the backbox come on, but no power.

Please try jump starting the mother board. Briefly short the two pins circled in the picture.

LTG : )

moboreset (resized).jpg
#2286 1 year ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

Here's what I'm working with. Which pins do I need to jump?

Please check if you have these.

Thank you,
Lloyd

jumpstart (resized).jpg
#2297 1 year ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

Two questions though... what made this occur? And why did a momentary jumper fix this?

The momentary jumper simulated the push button on a computer. Power supplies don't start on their own anymore. The motherboard starts them. So when you jump start the mother board, you start the power supply up and off you go.

The problem can happen on it's own, kind of rare. The usual cause is turning the game on, and then back off before it is fully booted up. Happens a lot around the holidays when people not familiar with pinball get at your games. That is why we don't see too much of it and then all of a sudden a run on it.

LTG : )

#2308 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Argh what do I do? Help

I'd turn the game on and try shorting the two pins again.

If that doesn't do it, be sure the power supply is plugged in, and grab a meter and start checking voltage leaving it and to motherboard. Then follow vireland's advice about reseating connectors and be sure they are on tight and you don't have a wire sticking up out of one.

LTG : )

1 week later
#2340 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

The initial impetus was completely selfish.

Still very nice the direction you took.

LTG : )

#2364 1 year ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

Will this fit on WOZ as well?

Contact him and ask. His ad - https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/03111-power-cmos-kicktap if there is enough interest he'll make it for WOZ and Hobbit. Sounds like for mounting but will work now in WOZ.

LTG : )

#2388 1 year ago
Quoted from bbulkley:

just this black block that's screwed in place.

Remove it.

Quoted from bbulkley:

one thumb screw,

Holds coin mech stuff in place on the coin door.

Quoted from bbulkley:

The instructions say when converting from 220 I have to change the pins. I got those out no problem, but there's also a note that the power supply should have a sliding switch on the external case. I assume that's referencing the PC power supply pictured, but I don't see any slider (sorry for the bad picture, but it's just a Corsair PC power supply).

Contact JJP. You might need a different power supply.

LTG : )

#2400 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Anybody know the size of the threaded posts that have a threaded part up top?

Page C-135 in the manual.

You can download it from jerseyjackpinball.com - Support - Downloads - Pirates.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#2410 1 year ago
Quoted from bbulkley:

My right sling rubber gets stuck behind the moving piece (I don’t know what it’s called). The thing that hits the sling to make it bounce the ball away gets outside of the rubber. It happens more often during multiball.

Try a size smaller rubber ring.

Quoted from zaphX:

LTG also mentioned throwing a nut inside the coil sleeve to reduce the travel of the sling, if you want to go that route.

That was for chipping on MMR playfields very early, and for trap door on Dialed In. I don't know if it will help with this issue.

LTG : )

#2413 1 year ago
Quoted from bbulkley:

Does that mean a ring that’s tighter on the sling,

Tighter on the sling.

LTG : )

1 week later
#2444 1 year ago
Quoted from Struwwelpeter:

Any ideas on what’s wrong?

I'd reseat ball trough opto boards, and to the opto driver board, and to I/O board in the head.

Sounds like 12 volts drops, effecting spot lights and optos in ball trough, so I'd reseat 12 volts connectors in back box too.

LTG : )

#2459 1 year ago
Quoted from bbulkley:

I turned the gate around, which makes it behave the way that makes sense to me.

You are correct. It should let balls up the ramp, and any trying to go back down are diverted to the wireform.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#2485 12 months ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

You usually see this in hanes that have exposed

I hate seeing anything exposed, in Hanes.

LTG : )

#2488 12 months ago
Quoted from dug780:

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I'd reseat connectors from them and back to the I/O board.

Sounds like a weak connection.

LTG : )

#2491 12 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Why is LTG running aroung sabotaging fuses in random backboxes?

The man does get around...

It wasn't random. It was because of the missing "B".

LTG : )

#2492 12 months ago
Quoted from dug780:

Problem: map stopped spinning recently.

Quoted from Yelobird:

it was one of the fuses in the back box.

Please pull and check fuses on the I/O board with an ohm meter. F709, F713, and F714. These are the small 20mm fuses. Don't trust the LED by them. If partially blown they could be pulling ohms and dragging voltage down.

LTG : )

#2507 11 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Maybe I need another set of balls or how do I de-magnetize my ball trough?

You need new balls or demagnetize them.

Ball trough isn't magnetized. But balls that are don't always roll down the ball trough smooth.

Kinetic energy ( balls hitting balls, balls hitting steel ) or magnets in a game, magnetize balls.

LTG : )

1 week later
#2532 11 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I wonder what LTG thinks of this power supply issue?

I think I'm grateful for zaphX figuring out a potential issue. And sharing it.

LTG : )

1 week later
#2574 11 months ago
Quoted from Vitty:

Anyone figure out how to quiet down the CE topper yet? That thing is way louder than the spinning disk!

Turn the speed down is about it.

LTG : )

#2639 11 months ago
Quoted from HornerSyndrome:

any ideas on how to check it

Tests - Devices.

Quoted from HornerSyndrome:

Ideas on how to fix the unlevel disc?

There is a huge nut underneath, loosen it and turn the screw thread part higher or lower as needed then retighten it. Page C-56 in the manual, part number 8.

LTG : )

#2645 11 months ago
Quoted from fossmin:

What should I check?

Tests - Switches - Matrixed - then check the optos in the chest.

LTG : )

#2647 11 months ago
Quoted from fossmin:

All 3 optos register in test mode.

Balls magnetized and not rolling in chest good ?

LTG : )

#2657 10 months ago
Quoted from IdahoRyan:

Seems like daily I have a switch stuck open or closed. Ship Bullseye stuck Closed, or canon switch.

Play it more. Hit more stuff. Errors will go away.

If the tech alert and red dot bother you on power up, turn them off in settings. Then if you want to check for errors, with the game turned on, open coin door, hit the enter button, if any they will be on the screen.

LTG : )

#2659 10 months ago
Quoted from Vitty:

Any Suggestions?

Playfield hangers bent and not straight up and down ?

LTG : )

#2664 10 months ago
Quoted from IdahoRyan:

Wife and I literally play minimum 6 games everyday on the machine LOL

You can go into Tests - Switches - Matrixed, and push any switch to see if it works or not. If it works, it will clear the error.

LTG : )

#2671 10 months ago
Quoted from LesManley:

It moves free.

Look at the mech as a whole under the playfield. Lined up straight ? Coil stop and front bracket holding coil, lined up straight. Not leaning in or out. Then look over the pawl/plunger movement. Nice straight plane it moves on ? And the pawl not too high or low on the flipper shaft ? ( flipper spacer gauge isn't always accurate for an issue like this ). And coil can turn a tiny bit, but not be loose.

Last but not least. Swap left and right flipper button leaf blade switches. I've had a few that just didn't work good. See if problem moves. Poor connection on the blade to the point, or the self cleaning ridge not smooth. If that ridge on the leaf blade that contacts the other ridge on the leaf blade, isn't smooth. I have filed them to a smooth ridge. I know not supposed to file lower power leaf blade switches. But I want stuff working. This is assuming your leaf blades have the self cleaning ridge and not points that look like a smooth rivet. No telling what is in your game without looking.

LTG : )

#2673 10 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

It's so much nicer than when people reply only with snark and quips.

Well LesManley lives in my area. I have to be nice to him. He could get me.

LTG : )

1 week later
#2690 10 months ago
Quoted from dts:

Thanks for any input!

For those doing the 220v to 110v conversion, here is all you need: JJP Part #99-000139-00 (Power Box Assy, USA)
The official JJP USA Power Cable is also part #19-009000-00 (Line Power Cable, USA SJT 18 AWG)

It is a complete power wire harness plus outlet/switch cover that will replace the original. For swapping the easiest thing to do is to start by replacing the 220v outlet/switch cover with the new one and then work towards the back of the machine and finally up into the head. As you go, its easiest to remove the old harness connections and immediately replace with the new. Takes about 30 minutes in total.

LTG : )

#2692 10 months ago
Quoted from Vitty:

I can't recall which parts they were though...

Read post 2690 in this thread.

LTG : )

#2700 10 months ago
Quoted from Hunico:

Why release the ball?

Balls magnetized and not rolling in the chest right ? Optos in the chest not working ? Not the correct number of balls in the game, too many or one stuck somewhere ?

LTG : )

#2717 10 months ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Since I actually had a working BP motor briefly tonight would that rule out a bad TIP or MOSFET?

Probably. Doesn't rule out across or through board continuity.

LTG : )

#2721 10 months ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

I don't think there would be a bad solder joint

I'd reflow them. Suck off old and put on new lead solder.

LTG : )

#2723 10 months ago

Yes. The pins the connectors plug onto.

LTG : )

#2727 10 months ago
Quoted from Axl:

Could it be one of the internal cables inside the apron?

From it to the motherboard.

LTG : )

1 week later
#2742 10 months ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

I'll cut back the shrink tubing and look at it better. If it is just resoldering a wire, that is a skill I do have.

If you have a 12 volt power source, you could hook up the motor to see if it works. Then you know it's from the motor wires and back the other way.

LTG : )

#2743 10 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

PS if you get frustrated just call #LTG on the service line. At this point he would Love to put down his mop and talk to Anyone about pinball instead of cleaning.

Hey Dave. You asked me what I want for Christmas. Here it is.

LTG : )

rider (resized).jpg
#2744 10 months ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

I'll cut back the shrink tubing and look at it better. If it is just resoldering a wire, that is a skill I do have. I have the equipment and the shrink tubing too.

This got me to thinking. Once you tear into this. Besides the solder joint on the motor. That wire could have a break or weak spot inside the casing you can't see.

LTG : )

#2747 10 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Will this and a broom work?

Hey with your 3D printing skills. I bet you could whip me up a life size ride on floor cleaner in no time.

Just don't forget the "B"rake pedal.

LTG : )

#2758 10 months ago
Quoted from Tigetoo:

Detailed picture of the black pearl underneath wiring.

Maybe this will help. Ignore red circle, that was for something else.

Black wires are for your EOS switch.

Green wire - look at other stand up targets in your game. White wire/black end of diode to one lug, green wire to one lug, silver band end of diode to one lug. Same pattern, every switch.

LTG : )

image1 (resized).jpeg
#2767 10 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

white module, is limp.

Too much information.

Take the lockdown bar off. Please go to Tests - Switches - Matrixed. Push the arm of the switch. Does it register ? If so the button isn't reaching it. Then adjust the arm or a blob of hot glue on the end of the button where it contacts the switch arm.

If it doesn't work in test. Then check wiring, and then check the switch.

LTG : )

#2770 10 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Tell us how to work on the Limp problem #LTG. Lol

Blue LEDs. Take two before bedtime.

LTG : )

#2772 10 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Ha! And what if the LEDs stay on for longer than 4 hours?

That is what them thar big needles are for. Drain that sucker down.

LTG : )

#2783 10 months ago
Quoted from dts:

The leaflets are ok, and switches work fine in the matrix.

Two leaf blade switches under there, one on each side of kicker - in Tests - Switches - Matrixed - is one stuck closed ? If you bang on playfield does vibration set one or both off ?

Any other switches show on the screen as closed that should be open ?

LTG : )

#2785 10 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

I'm hitting the red button directly, switch isn't being triggered...

Peel back the insulation a bit by the solder joint on the switch lugs. Then go to Tests - Switches - Matrixed , and briefly short those two wires. If it then registers on the screen, you have a broken switch. If not, then you have a break from the switch to the I/O board.

LTG : )

#2787 10 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

So lugs meaning, the purple and black wires feeding directly into the white module?

Lets call the white module a switch. Peel back a tiny bit of the black shrink wrap on both wires. To expose the ends of the wires.

Quoted from wesman:

How do I short them?

Piece of wire, screw driver, etc.

Quoted from wesman:

Power on, or off?

I'd do it on. Tests - Switches - Matrixed. If off, you might not see anything on the screen when you briefly short them.

LTG : )

#2790 10 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Okay, stupid question.

Not stupid if you've never done it.

Quoted from wesman:

So do you mean the already exposed metal contacts going into the "switch"?

If you can get at them both - yes.

Quoted from wesman:

where the insulation is covering the wires feeding away from the "switch"?

Insulation won't conduct electricity. So you'd have to peel it back a tiny bit to get at the bare wire ends.

Quoted from wesman:

And do I touch both contact point at once, as in both exposed wires or one at a time?

One at a time won't do anything. You need to short the two wires together. All a working switch does is short those two wires together inside the switch, completing a circuit. By shorting them together you by pass the switch. This is to check if the switch is good or bad.

LTG : )

#2791 10 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Yanno what? That switch test is in Dedicated Switches" and it's firing manually there!

Yay ! Sorry about that, I thought it was in matrixed.

Quoted from wesman:

I started my game up, have a plumb bob tilt switch that is red. Odd, as I don't even have mine installed.

Not installed - that means you've never tilted the game. If you push the rod to the metal ring in test should clear the error.

In settings, you can turn off the error warning and red dot at start up if you want. Then the only way to see errors is with the game turned on, open coin door, and hit the enter button.

LTG : )

#2794 10 months ago
Quoted from dts:

Interestingly, it stops firing when the playfield is pulled up.

Wires are being stretched when playfield is lowered. Maybe wiggle the black plastic tubes with the wires in them behind the playfield. And be sure they move or have a little slack.

LTG : )

#2798 9 months ago
Quoted from JustLikeMe:

I was really hoping the advice wouldn’t be to remove the black pearl

Not bad. Turn game off. Lift main playfield up and slide forward and rest on front of cabinet. Behind the back wall, remove the clip holding the flat metal thingy hooking the motor to the black pearl and slide the metal thingy off and white nylon spacer so you don't lose it.

Between the inside of the back wall and the back side of the black pearl, look down. See the allen head bolt sticking up ? remove it. Then slide the black pearl back off of the two pivot points and set on it's side on the main playfield on top of some shop towels or something.

LTG : )

#2811 9 months ago
Quoted from Galooch:

I hope I can do the same for others as I keep learning.

Your time will come.

As you learn the day will come when you can help others. And if everybody keeps doing this. Pinball stays strong and healthy.

LTG : )

#2813 9 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Anyone ever encounter errors like this?

Others have.

Have you done a full install before ?

Things people run into ( even if you already tried them ) bad download, try from the other mirror site. USB stick - keep trying different brands 8GB to 16GB nothing else on it formatted to FAT32. Skipping a step or two and not getting it on the USB stick right. Trying the Delta method of install instead of the correct Full Install.

Your USB cable looks plugged in right. You can plug the USB stick into any open port on the motherboard.

LTG : )

#2815 9 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Is the Delta file even available on the site anymore?

No. ( and if it were, it wouldn't help with what went wrong and what you have going on now, full install is the only way out )

Quoted from wesman:

.99 is a full install, yes?

Yes.

And many times I've seen people mix up which way to do which.

LTG : )

#2834 9 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I do believe thats an enter only hole..... no firing out.

Don't do it Lloyd. Don't post something funny in reference to that one liner.

LTG : )

#2858 9 months ago
Quoted from MarZ_78:

It indicates there is an error report available.

You can turn that off in settings.

LTG : )

#2862 9 months ago
Quoted from JamCat:

Board in the back box has all red lights on by several of the fuses.

Pull out the high power interlock switch on the coin door to get more to light up.

Quoted from Yelobird:

Start with the power plug at wall and to the back of the game.

This.

LTG : )

#2863 9 months ago
Quoted from JamCat:

Board in the back box has all red lights on by several of the fuses.

That is a sign those fuses are good.

LTG : )

#2864 9 months ago
Quoted from JamCat:

Any ideas where to start?

After Yelobird's advice. Consider this.

LTG : )

#2878 9 months ago
Quoted from tatapolus:

Really appreciate any suggestions.

The arm of the switch needs adjusting. Be careful you don't effect the flat part that pushes the tiny knob into the switch body.

Turn the game off. Lift the playfield up and lean back. Remove the two screws holding the bracket the switch is on to lower it. Then you can bend it up a tiny bit. Reassemble and try again. It might take a try or two to get it so the ball registers a hit yet doesn't trap the ball.

LTG : )

#2881 9 months ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

every time i start a game, the character advances 1 character, when ball is put into the shooter lane. Does this happen to any one else?

One of the leaf blade switches on a flipper button too sensitive ?

LTG : )

#2883 9 months ago
Quoted from Axl:

I don’t get this, is there something else I need to remove to slide the black pearl out?

Did you unhook the flat metal piece that hooks the motor to the black pearl, this is behind the rear wall of the playfield. Pull a big clip and lower it. ?

Between the rear of the black pearl and the back wall of the playfield, if you look down there is an allenhead bolt sticking up, did you remove that ?

That is it. Just two thins. Grab it with both hands and wiggle it towards the rear of the game and it should lift up and off of the two pivot points.

This is to lay it on it's side on the main playfield.. If you want to remove it entirely, under the playfield disconnect the connectors for it first.

LTG : )

#2887 9 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

What’s the absolute best fix for the action button getting stuck? Sorry, I just started playing this game

Stern lockdown bar button from Pinball Life.

What I did on mine was put a blob of hot glue on the end of the button. That has worked fine in commercial use since I got the game.

LTG : )

#2891 9 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Did you put the hot glue after the adding the stern button or did you just do the hot glue?

Just the hot glue.

Quoted from KornFreak28:

What causes it to get stuck though?

On my game, the end would stick on the side of the blade on the switch it pushes. A dab of hot glue made it wider and end of problem. The blade of that switch has some back and forth play.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#2907 8 months ago

Page C-4 and page C-5 item #32 in the manual.

If you need a manual, you can download it from jerseyjackpinball.com under Support under Downloads under Pirates.

LTG : )

#2926 8 months ago
Quoted from SDpinballer:

Not sure where to start looking from here,

I'd check the bridge rectifier for that fuse to see if it's shorted. Did you mean F714 ? Page D-91 in the manual takes out a bunch of 12 volt stuff.

I'll PM you my number.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#2975 8 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Any ideas on how to adjust this?

Adjust the leaf blade switch for it below the playfield.

Turn the game off. Lift playfield up and lean back. See the leaf blade switch ? The long one with the plastic spoon is pushed by a plastic rod coming down from the pop bumper skirt. This plastic spoon should be clean, ( not worn on older games ) well centered on the rod, just resting on it, not pushing it up. The shorter lower leaf blade switch should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it yet vibration doesn't set it off. A little adjusting/tweaking, and you'll be fine.

LTG : )

#2988 8 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Make sure the point is Exactly centered on the spoon. Its very possible the switch (connected to the spoon) may need to be adjusted. If the spoon is centered And the gap is correct I suspect you will be good to go.

The switch is mounted to a bracket held to the playfield by a couple screws. You can loosen them and turn a bit if needed and retighten.

LTG : )

1 week later
#2992 8 months ago
Quoted from swampy:

Or can I partially remove?

Lay a towel on the main playfield. Disconnect the metal bar hooking motor to rocking playfield. Remove the allen head bolt between the rocking playfield and rear wall of the game. Slide the rocking playfield back and lift off of the two pivot points. Set on it's side on the towel.

Fix what needs fixing. Reassemble.

LTG : )

#2996 8 months ago
Quoted from May:

where to look.

Cables to it, and to motherboard in the backbox.

Same screen as used in book on Hobbit and phone on Dialed In.

LTG : )

3 weeks later
#3026 7 months ago
Quoted from palmab03:

Very new to owning my own machine, and extremely brand new in trying to service one, so bear with me on being a complete novice.

But I'm getting a matrix switch #41 error, left slingshot, low (stuck closed). Basically the left slingshot just will fire over and over again, going on for usually 30 seconds and then stopping. Seems to go in and out. Was originally red on the matrix, but now it's stays green at all times (then it fires nonstop). Suggestions?

Turn the game off. Remove the plastic over the sling shot kicker and leaf blade switches. Pull on the rubber ring around the posts, so you have equal pressure on all sides, not tight on the kicker/leaf blade switch side. The leaf blade switches - front long one should be resting on the rubber ring, not pushing it or away from it. Shorter rear one should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it, yet vibration doesn't. There are two leaf blade switches, one each side of the kicker. At least one needs a little adjusting. When bending forward or backward, get as close to the fiberboard spacers as you can.

LTG : )

#3031 7 months ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I have thought about removing the switch and cutting about 1-2mm off the end of the front switch blade.

Bingo !

LTG : )

#3042 6 months ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Anybody know what I’m supposed to do with this?

Replace posts that have pooling around them under the slingshots. Put washer down, then post.

LTG : )

#3048 6 months ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I just ordered the post kit from JJP. Do you think they will send it free of charge even if I'm not the original owner?

No idea. Sorry.

LTG : )

#3053 6 months ago
Quoted from statsdoc:

Anybody have any thoughts?

If it locks on at power up. Transistor on the I/O board is bad.

LTG : )

#3060 6 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I’m sure you have already but needed to ask before you jump to this type repair which Most likely is the issue. Have you checked the blade switch on the right flipper button to make sure it didn’t just get bent raising the Playfield and locked closed?

If the flipper leaf blade switch was stuck closed. The flipper wouldn't go up when you turn the game on. It would go up when you start a game.

LTG : )

1 week later
#3090 6 months ago
Quoted from heni1977:

LTG, Is there a proper way to adjust flipper bats?

I eye ball them. Line them up with return guides.

Your game. Place them where you like their response.

LTG : )

3 weeks later
#3131 5 months ago
Quoted from marvinmax:

Suddenly my fork mechanism (from the chest) won't go down.

Check the mechanism below the playfield. Two tiny rollers on each side. They loose or fall off ?

LTG : )

#3132 5 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Check the mechanism below the playfield. Two tiny rollers on each side. They loose or fall off ?

LTG : )

Page C-30 in the manual. Part #28, #27, #17

LTG : )

#3134 5 months ago

Check the opto in there. If the trap that goes down to catch them, goes down.

LTG : )

#3146 5 months ago
Quoted from Zora:

There is no bad switch in switch test.

You bang on the playfield to see if vibration is setting any off ?

LTG : )

#3163 5 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

LTG is the next step to check under the playfield and see how closely the switch is gapped?

If you can see it above works.

If not, you could always unscrew the bracket holding it to the playfield and lower it and look. Though that won't help much if the rubber ring is pressing it. Then you'd have to adjust both blades.

Quoted from wesman:

Definitely need a tool.

Power off. Tool works. Small flat nose pliers, thin screw driver, fingernails, etc.

LTG : )

#3171 5 months ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

There’s a video on the JJP site under support about jump starting the cpu - did you watch that and try that?

I believe he did.

I'd try again, and power to power supply. Be sure it's plugged in tight.

LTG : )

#3174 5 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

is there a connector that could come loose enough to not boot but still have power to that board with all the LEDs?

Yes. I'd go over them. Be sure a wire/pin isn't sticking up from a connector.

LTG : )

#3175 5 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

is there a connector that could come loose enough to not boot

I'd check the pinouts in the manual for the I/O board and motherboard, see where power goes to them. Go over those.

LTG : )

#3177 5 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

(maybe the transformer?)

Maybe the power supply ?

I'd get a meter on it and see if 12 volts is going out.

LTG : )

#3189 5 months ago
Quoted from wilder828:

. but it never returns my ball.

Balls magnetized and not rolling down the ball trough right ?

LTG : )

#3193 5 months ago
Quoted from dawasa:

I am getting a ball stuck under the right slingshot plastic. Twice in a day. Any way to prevent this?

Tighter rubber ring.

LTG : )

1 week later
#3213 4 months ago
Quoted from palmab03:

So action button just completely stopped working. Taking it off and the switch doesn't work, I'm very new to repairing pinballs, do I need to replace it?

Tests - Switches - Matrixed - does it work there ? Hear it click ? Next I'd check with a meter, if it works, then broken wire from switch to the I/O board.

LTG : )

#3217 4 months ago