Stranger Things (LE)
Stern, 2019
Stranger Things (Premium)
Stern, 2019
Stranger Things (Pro)
Stern, 2019Quoted from ExSquid:[quoted image]
This gif made me laugh. You can absolutely see the frustration. Lol. Sorry that happened man. Don't feel bad...one time I was doing play field work on a machine that required play field removal. The wires weren't harness keyed, and despite marking them I still managed to send 48v down a 5v line and blew everything on it. Optos, servos every RGB light in the game...you name it. 1600 later and I'm sure I won't make that mistake again.
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:I’m jealous. On my game it’s rare that he eats a ball. Pretty much all Demo modes are about shots kissing off his mouth, sailing high into the air, and then crashing down onto the playfield to add to the dimple count.
My grub screw does almost nothing to pitch the Demo forward. The problem is the stop rubber that the sculpt’s base rests against. I was hoping I wouldn’t have to pull the Demo to address his pitch, but apparently I do.
Drat!
[quoted image][quoted image]
check the pinned posts. Fixing the demogorgon takes about 20 minutes and requires removing it from the game to reduce the height.
Quoted from Paseb:While removing my target mach, I had issue with the molex connector and one wire pulled out
How do i put it back, i have basic tools, no molex or connectors[quoted image]
Flip the connector over, there's a slot on the other side for each wire position. Push the little metal barb in at the top of the slot with the missing wire that will allow the connector to slide out.
Once you have the connector out, carefully uncurl the part that was supposed to crimp the wire with a jeweler's screwdriver or similar (there should be one at the end, and another crimp point further up). Once you have it opened up, put the wire back in and re-crimp the wire into the connector. Tug on the connector and wire to make sure you crimped it well enough.
Bend the little barb back out that you pushed in to get the connector out initially so it will snap into place when you slide it back into the connector, then slide it back in and tug to make sure the barb engaged on the slot and the connector is locked in again.
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:check the pinned posts. Fixing the demogorgon takes about 20 minutes and requires removing it from the game to reduce the height.
Hi.
Thanks.
I did end up pulling the Demogorgon - although I didn't first see Pinmonk's post about just how to do that, so I was feeling my way. Man, I WISH the job was just a twenty-minute affair! It was not - mostly owing to the one screw that secures the Demo's bracket to the playfield from the topside of the PF. To access it, one has to loosen the back section of the left ramp by freeing it at all points, and of course the front section has to come out. Then there are all the plastics that get in your way that surround the Demo. Man, this playfield is NOT service friendly!
I got the Demo out, but when I removed the spacers to lower his height, I noticed that he could no longer rock back and forth. The toy is itself is mounted to the bracket by a pair of screws, each of which is suspended in a grommet, allowing a fair bit of back/forth rocking. I thought it seemed like an extreme tradeoff to stop all the rocking just to lower the Demo, and I decided to just remove the chin bumper and leave the spacers. With the chin bumper gone, the grub screw actually works. Whew! Still, even with the grub screw threaded about 50% of the way down, the Demo's pitch is just slightly affected - enough though for me to score my very first mouth kills.
Demo.diagram (resized).png
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:enough though for me to score my very first mouth kills.
Nothing better than hearing that 'clink' noise when hitting a clean Demogorgon shot.
Quoted from DiabloRush:It's useless. Only reason it's there is so operators don't lower the demogorgon so much as to create a ball trap. It's unneeded on any game, especially a home game. Toss it. It has a unintended effect of making it impossible to properly dial-in the DG shot.
Hi.
Thanks for your help.
I did get in there the hard way and removed the gate, thus accessing the screw that holds the chin bumper in place. I took that off and then put everything back together - none of which was easy.
Anyway, with the chin bumper gone, the sculpt has more rocking range, and - even more exciting - the grub screw now actually has an effect on the pitch of the Demo. The bumper worked like a stop, limiting the forward drop of the sculpt - just as you said.
Quoted from SuperMas77:Nothing better than hearing that 'clink' noise when hitting a clean Demogorgon shot.
Honestly, the two kills I've managed were NOT swishes. More like rattlers. I have no idea what this "clink" might be, but I'm looking forward to it as I do like clinks.
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Honestly, the two kills I've managed were NOT swishes. More like rattlers. I have no idea what this "clink" might be, but I'm looking forward to it as I do like clinks.
When you have it dialed, when you hit it center, it hits the top of the mouth, the head sways back, and ball dunks in. “Clink”
Quoted from SuperMas77:I ended up wrapping my QR scanner in bubble wrap to protect and store it. Home Team works just fine without the scanner connected. This solution works for us because of the HUO environment.
Thinking of doing the same but maybe moving the scanner to one of my games that don’t have IC
Quoted from chuckwurt:When you have it dialed, when you hit it center, it hits the top of the mouth, the head sways back, and ball dunks in. “Clink”
I still have some adjusting to do then as I have NOT experienced this.
Quoted from kciaccio:Does anybody know where those led boards that light up the apron plug into under the playfield?
[quoted image]
Follow the wire on the left side down below the playfield, should be just a few inches down, 2-pin white connector with yellow/blk and white/blk wires.
Quoted from PinMonk:Flip the connector over, there's a slot on the other side for each wire position. Push the little metal barb in at the top of the slot with the missing wire that will allow the connector to slide out.
Once you have the connector out, carefully uncurl the part that was supposed to crimp the wire with a jeweler's screwdriver or similar (there should be one at the end, and another crimp point further up). Once you have it opened up, put the wire back in and re-crimp the wire into the connector. Tug on the connector and wire to make sure you crimped it well enough.
Bend the little barb back out that you pushed in to get the connector out initially so it will snap into place when you slide it back into the connector, then slide it back in and tug to make sure the barb engaged on the slot and the connector is locked in again.
Thanks
I tried putting the wire back yesterday without pulling the crimp part, i was pushing the wire down with a long nose plier
It didnt work
Hopefully i dont need a new crimp part
Quoted from Paseb:I added a big klisch sub but i would like to have higher volume on the speach
Not a higher volume overall
What the option for that?
Go into Game Settings and find the option for “Speech Attenuation” and set it to around -15 to -25. The higher the negative value, the louder the speech is over the music.
Quoted from Xdetroit:Thinking of doing the same but maybe moving the scanner to one of my games that don’t have IC
Great idea! Now I have an excuse to buy another pin so I don't waste an IC scanner collecting dust in storage.
Target Decal Adhesion Woes:
What glue type do you suggest in this case?
I have:
1. Two-part epoxy
2. Two-sided tape (two different brands)
3. Clear silicone bathroom caulk
Frustratingly, I used two of the replacement “leveler” decals from the goodie bag already and they have already fallen off.
I bought a complete set of decals from PBL, but as far as I know it doesn’t include the leveler layer, just the face, so I will have to reuse the leveler.
IMG_3049 (resized).jpegQuoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Target Decal Adhesion Woes:
What glue type do you suggest in this case?
I have:
1. Two-part epoxy
2. Two-sided tape (two different brands)
3. Clear silicone bathroom caulk
Frustratingly, I used two of the replacement “leveler” decals from the goodie bag already and they have already fallen off.
I bought a complete set of decals from PBL, but as far as I know it doesn’t include the leveler layer, just the face, so I will have to reuse the leveler.
[quoted image]
What was your process for reapplying the replacements? If you scrub the target with alcohol first?
Quoted from pineal:Does it fail in gameplay? If you’re getting the failure in test mode, and you haven’t tried a game, make sure to use the red buttons to toggle UV Control 2. Test mode only powers one side at a time, so you have to toggle away from UV Control 1 (see photo) to power the left side.
If you’re getting the failure during gameplay STOP! If you have IC installed in the right triangle, lift your apron and inspect whether the IC bracket is touching the solder pads on the LED strip. If it is touching, remover the IC unit and file down the metal corner to ensure an air gap. You might also add some dielectric fish paper from an old household switch, or some electrical tape, just to be sure.
Also, the projector adjustments are in DIAG> ST> PROJECTOR TEST.
Hope this helps. Good luck! [quoted image]
Thanks a bunch for this! I was able to fix the PROJECTOR issues via the settings, as you pointed out.
As for the UV kit not working on the right hand side, it was DURING the game as well, but oddly enough, a few hours after the projector was working properly, the UV kit started working on the right hand side on its own, so it looks like it "fixed itself"? Weird but it looks pretty awesome.
The only issue left is that I can't seem to SAVE high scores and it keeps showing this ERROR MESSAGE every now and again on the screen "game validation error, update SD card". I spoke to my distributor and he saved me a new SD card, we updated it and it still shows the same message! He will be asking Stern next week but if anyone has dealt with that issue before, I'm all ears... 
Quoted from chuckwurt:What was your process for reapplying the replacements? If you scrub the target with alcohol first?
Yes. Alcohol first.
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Yes. Alcohol first.
Usually should work. And the set from PBL appears to have both decals in it.
Quoted from Paseb:Thanks
I tried putting the wire back yesterday without pulling the crimp part, i was pushing the wire down with a long nose plier
It didnt work
Hopefully i dont need a new crimp part
As a pinball owner, it's not a bad idea to get a crimper anyway, and these actual connectors are dirt cheap. The shipping is the most expensive part.
But if you're careful and have good needle nose pliers and a small jeweler's or eyeglass type standard screwdriver you should be able to pry it open once the connector is out of the housing and put it all back together. Just take some time/patience.
Regarding UV kit install, Stern should add wire snips to list of tools required to snip harness tie wrap. The 3 molex ‘from the playfield’ were tied up so tight to the underside of the harness, I first thought it was an error, I couldn’t see any loose molex available at first.
IMG_1823 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from PinMonk:As a pinball owner, it's not a bad idea to get a crimper anyway, and these actual connectors are dirt cheap. The shipping is the most expensive part.
But if you're careful and have good needle nose pliers and a small jeweler's or eyeglass type standard screwdriver you should be able to pry it open once the connector is out of the housing and put it all back together. Just take some time/patience.
Can you send a me link for the replacement connector/crimp(size) and crimper tool just in case it doesnt work
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Target Decal Adhesion Woes:
What glue type do you suggest in this case?
I have:
1. Two-part epoxy
2. Two-sided tape (two different brands)
3. Clear silicone bathroom caulk
Frustratingly, I used two of the replacement “leveler” decals from the goodie bag already and they have already fallen off.
I bought a complete set of decals from PBL, but as far as I know it doesn’t include the leveler layer, just the face, so I will have to reuse the leveler.
[quoted image]
I clean the target & decal with alcohol and make sure there’s no glue residue left. Then use 3M 467MP tape. Never had another one come off after that.
Quoted from Hayfarmer:Picked up a nib prem fri, finally all set up. Fantastic game,I need to discover how to activate the upside down more, it's so pretty!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice man!
As far as I can figure out the upside down is all random. I’m probably wrong but the amount of times I’ve played it doesn’t seem like anything I’m doing is deliberately activating it.
Quoted from ExSquid:Nice man!
As far as I can figure out the upside down is all random. I’m probably wrong but the amount of times I’ve played it doesn’t seem like anything I’m doing is deliberately activating it.
I didn't even smash anything while installing, I heard another guy did 
Quoted from AssaultSuit:I got my UV kit last night and installed it tonight. It still seems insane that Stern designed this kit to throw away a metal apron and a bunch of plastics when this feature probably could have been installed from factory in every game and saved us all a lot of grief!
But, I figured out something that might help others. I was determined to put my IC reader back where it belongs on the right side triangle and kept thinking about what other's problems were. Temporarily removing the screws/nuts from the UV LED on that side of the apron allows the IC reader to fit. The problem is that there is practically no clearance between the metal bracket of the IC reader and the solder pads for the wired connector which is the reason some were getting a short.
The fix is to grind off a little of the metal bracket and give some space. Just remember to disassemble it first so you don't get metal shavings all over the PCB.[quoted image]
Now everything fits!
[quoted image]
Happy flipping!
Thanks for the tip! The IC unit fits perfectly after filing the corner of the bracket. In my opinion this looks better than the new style apron with the reader hole in the card area. But still quite strange Stern allowed the original design, they must have known this just doesn't fit?
Quoted from arnzzz:Thanks for the tip! The IC unit fits perfectly after filing the corner of the bracket. In my opinion this looks better than the new style apron with the reader hole in the card area. But still quite strange Stern allowed the original design, they must have known this just doesn't fit?
[quoted image]
Totally agreed about the look. I want consistency across the board...plus I have some artwork coming from France to cover the red on the triangle with acrylic art. Glad to help!
Considering what needs to be replaced to make this kit whole (apron, plastics) I guess I should at least thank Stern for not making us do playfield swaps to get the UV reflective paint. How's that for a silver lining?
Quoted from AssaultSuit:Totally agreed about the look. I want consistency across the board...plus I have some artwork coming from France to cover the red on the triangle with acrylic art. Glad to help!
Considering what needs to be replaced to make this kit whole (apron, plastics) I guess I should at least thank Stern for not making us do playfield swaps to get the UV reflective paint. How's that for a silver lining?
Please show the end result with the triangle cover when you have it
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Target Decal Adhesion Woes:
What glue type do you suggest in this case?
I have:
1. Two-part epoxy
2. Two-sided tape (two different brands)
3. Clear silicone bathroom caulk
Frustratingly, I used two of the replacement “leveler” decals from the goodie bag already and they have already fallen off.
I bought a complete set of decals from PBL, but as far as I know it doesn’t include the leveler layer, just the face, so I will have to reuse the leveler.
[quoted image]
This is the product I used. I'm sure the indoor version would be more than fine but I keep rolls of this stuff on hand for all kinds of uses. It's never failed me when used in a fashion that doesn't tax the hell out of it.
I cleaned the standup plastic thoroughly with 91% alcohol and used a hole punch in the center of the mounting tape to ensure a completely flat application. I've had to do it on 2 targets now, not a single issue afterwards.
Scotch mounting tape (resized).jpgNew Mind Flayer design . Magnetic Speaker Frames.
Works with or without lights.
PM or see the thread.
Shown here with Myth Speaker Lights
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/speaker-light-mod-stern-magnetic-speaker-frame-silhouettes
pasted_image (resized).pngGrey Mesh Purple both (resized).jpg20240128_172921 (resized).jpgBeen adjusting on our premium, could not make left orbit return to left flipper without hitting sling. The ball guide on mine has no slots to adjust, so a piece of mylar made it perfect. Not 1 hit to sling, no matter how fast or slow, always hits flipper in the middle now.
Quoted from Hayfarmer:Been adjusting on our premium, could not make left orbit return to left flipper without hitting sling. The ball guide on mine has no slots to adjust, so a piece of mylar made it perfect. Not 1 hit to sling, no matter how fast or slow, always hits flipper in the middle now.
[quoted image]
Interesting technique
Quoted from Hayfarmer:Been adjusting on our premium, could not make left orbit return to left flipper without hitting sling. The ball guide on mine has no slots to adjust, so a piece of mylar made it perfect. Not 1 hit to sling, no matter how fast or slow, always hits flipper in the middle now.
That one piece of mylar made a difference to the ball's trajectory out of the orbit?
Quoted from Hayfarmer:Been adjusting on our premium, could not make left orbit return to left flipper without hitting sling. The ball guide on mine has no slots to adjust, so a piece of mylar made it perfect. Not 1 hit to sling, no matter how fast or slow, always hits flipper in the middle now.
[quoted image]
Pretty clever. Are the burn it back loops smooth still too?
After many failed adjustments to the Demogorgon to make it easier to eat the ball, I broke down and ripped that little chin guard thing out. Then proceeded to get 3 kills in a row. I wish I would have saved a lot of headaches and just ripped that thing out weeks ago.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Pretty clever. Are the burn it back loops smooth still too?
Yes, all perfect. Even real slow rollers.
Quoted from Drac:That one piece of mylar made a difference to the ball's trajectory out of the orbit?
Had to do this on ehoh le as well. 2 pieces sends it to the right flipper.
I'm seeing a fair number of hard shots under the demogorgan (like to start a dg battle) that seem to bounce straight over to the mystery saucer, and never register the initial shot. Is there a known fix or adjustment that can help this?
Quoted from Hayfarmer:Been adjusting on our premium, could not make left orbit return to left flipper without hitting sling. The ball guide on mine has no slots to adjust, so a piece of mylar made it perfect. Not 1 hit to sling, no matter how fast or slow, always hits flipper in the middle now.
[quoted image]
It can’t be this simple…. Can it ?!?!
Quoted from Hayfarmer:Yes, all perfect. Even real slow rollers.
Had to do this on ehoh le as well. 2 pieces sends it to the right flipper.
Mine currently sends that shot to my right flipper every time. It bumps the target and sends it right onto the right flipper. Not sure I want to change it yet haha
Quoted from Jakers:After many failed adjustments to the Demogorgon to make it easier to eat the ball, I broke down and ripped that little chin guard thing out. Then proceeded to get 3 kills in a row. I wish I would have saved a lot of headaches and just ripped that thing out weeks ago.
You guys just ripping it out with pliers?
Quoted from ExSquid:You guys just ripping it out with pliers?
Yeah. It rips out pretty easily since it’s just some rubber/plastic material.
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