(Topic ID: 258046)

Stranger Things Club. Join our Party!

By chuckwurt

2 years ago


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  • 628 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 32 minutes ago by SonOfaDiddly
  • Topic is favorited by 235 Pinsiders

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“Which game are you getting?”

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17 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 13,819 posts in this topic. You are on page 153 of 277.
#7601 12 months ago

I have the stock plunger and have only seen the mxv skillshot twice. Both complete luck.

#7602 12 months ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

I have the stock plunger and have only seen the mxv skillshot twice. Both complete luck.

wow, i could get it about every 3rd game prior!

#7603 12 months ago

I received the replacement ramp cover from Stern today. I have attached a PDF of the installation instructions. Hope you can read.
I have to say, I was a little disappointed in the quality of the replacement part. The plastics on the game are crystal clear and pretty flawless and this looks pretty gnarly. I started to do the install but when I got stymied on page 3, step 2e of removing the original cover. They tell you to remove the screw and nut from under El's head, but it is impossible to get to without removing El. So I stopped. Wasn't surew I wanted that ugly plastic on the game anyway, even if it does help with the lock. Maybe I'll try again. If anyone else is able to remove that screw, please share how you did it.
Thanks.

IMG_9521 (resized).jpgStranger Things Replacement cover.pdf
#7604 12 months ago

Make sure and remove the protective film from both sides of the plastic. It should be crystal clear.

#7605 12 months ago

They also included a new TK adjustment sheet that I haven't seen before. Thought I'd share. Forgive me if this is in the thread already.

Stranger Things TK lock Adjustment Guide.pdf

#7606 12 months ago

It’s not. Thanks!

#7607 12 months ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

If anyone else is able to remove that screw, please share how you did it.

Taking The eleven plastic off is easy. Just take the screws off and it comes right off.

#7608 12 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:Make sure and remove the protective film from both sides of the plastic.

You are correct, sir. I feel like a dope. Thanks for the tip, Chuck.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Just take the screws off and it comes right off.

Ok. time to dive back in. I really need you guys anytime I take the glass off of this. I'm so gun shy about messing with anything inside the machine.

IMG_9522 (resized).jpg
#7609 12 months ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

Ok. time to dive back in. I really need you guys anytime I take the glass off of this. I'm so gun shy about messing with anything inside the machine.

it’s all just screws and nuts. Take pics if you need to reference anything. Keep a magnet near by for any small things that drop.

#7610 12 months ago

And if you really f**k it up, I'm only 15 minutes away.

#7611 12 months ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

You are correct, sir. I feel like a dope. Thanks for the tip, Chuck.

Ok. time to dive back in. I really need you guys anytime I take the glass off of this. I'm so gun shy about messing with anything inside the machine. [quoted image]

Ha, I was new to this and had only worked on one pretty banged up f-14 before this machine. My munsters had never been a problem. I'm pretty sure no one has had their machine apart as much as me. I could take it apart in my sleep at this point. This one is quite easy to work on actually. Biggest thing I would say is if you have to remove the ramps make sure you wrap them with cloth or something before setting them down. I've had them off so many times I have no idea when I scratched the under side of them but wow did I do a doozy to it. Other than that my machine looks great still.

#7612 12 months ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

I'm only 15 minutes away.

Man, I just looked at your collection. When this Covid thing is behind us I need to come over and play some of those awesome pins!!

And, thanks for everyone's help! I think it worked! I am making some more adjustments, but the first TK lock is consistently hitting. Now the second and third are iffy but I think it's the diverter arm is too close to the ball on the wall. But this is a big help. If you haven't done so, contact Stern and ask for this new cover!

#7613 12 months ago

My cover is ordered. I can’t wait to get at this.

#7614 12 months ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

I received the replacement ramp cover from Stern today. I have attached a PDF of the installation instructions. Hope you can read.
I have to say, I was a little disappointed in the quality of the replacement part. The plastics on the game are crystal clear and pretty flawless and this looks pretty gnarly. I started to do the install but when I got stymied on page 3, step 2e of removing the original cover. They tell you to remove the screw and nut from under El's head, but it is impossible to get to without removing El. So I stopped. Wasn't surew I wanted that ugly plastic on the game anyway, even if it does help with the lock. Maybe I'll try again. If anyone else is able to remove that screw, please share how you did it.
Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Can you or someone else please scan this Plastic with 300 dpi???
Want to laser my own one.

#7615 12 months ago

I don’t have an actual scanner, just used some scanner app in my phone. Sorry.

#7616 12 months ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

Man, I just looked at your collection. When this Covid thing is behind us I need to come over and play some of those awesome pins!!
And, thanks for everyone's help! I think it worked! I am making some more adjustments, but the first TK lock is consistently hitting. Now the second and third are iffy but I think it's the diverter arm is too close to the ball on the wall. But this is a big help. If you haven't done so, contact Stern and ask for this new cover!

Got confirmation from Pablo yesterday that my cover is ordered. Encouraging to hear it made a difference! I also just received my ramp decal from Tilt Graphics (the nightmare one). Once I'm back under the hood, I'm going to re-measure the distance that the ramp is out from the back wall. I might have it out too much, I'm thinking. It's pretty difficult to get an accurate measurement on that.

#7617 12 months ago

Once you understand what the adjustments do, you should dial your game to fit your situation. Remember every millimeter makes a difference. It might be that your game needs to be a mm or so off of what the guide says.

#7618 12 months ago

Just played some great games, can’t say enough good things about this pin, great designers, layout, flow, rules, sounds etc...Just so glad I got it.

#7619 12 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Once you understand what the adjustments do, you should dial your game to fit your situation. Remember every millimeter makes a difference. It might be that your game needs to be a mm or so off of what the guide says.

Okay so I did another slo mo video, this time directly overhead. For some reason on my iphone it is playing back full speed - not sure what the issue is there and I tried it twice to make sure I had selected slo mo. In any case, I advanced it manually on the phone very slowly, and from what it looks like, the ball is traveling up the diverter and when it nears the top, the diverter opens back up, causing the ball to drop. I'll see if I can get a slo mo copy of it to work, but from what it looks like, if the diverter were to just give the ball a little more time, it would have made it. That could be fixed with a code change... There is no reason that I can think of where it would be a problem to keep the diverter towards the wall a little longer. Even a split second longer would have allowed the ball to continue up. The only reason it dropped was because the diverter opened up. Thoughts?

#7620 12 months ago

The ball is taking too long to get to the end or the diverter. It’s being impeded by something. The ramp cover or the diverter itself is slowing the ball down too much.

#7621 12 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

The ball is taking too long to get to the end or the diverter. It’s being impeded by something. The ramp cover or the diverter itself.

Okay, got the slo mo working - video link attached. Now that I look at the video again, I agree, Chuck. It does seem like the ball loses momentum going up, so I'm not sure more time would matter in this case. It does look like the diverter wiggles quite a bit, so it may also be that I need to tighten it more.

#7622 12 months ago

Some play in the diverter arm is fine. It looks like the ball is contacting the diverter arm before it makes the turn in the ramp. The ball shouldn’t touch the diverter arm until it’s past the bend.

9C7474BF-0E2B-41D2-B897-BA68171A601F (resized).jpeg

This is the point at which the ball should first contact the the diverter arm.

Try bending the diverter arm down more.

#7623 12 months ago
Quoted from palacekeeper:

Okay, got the slo mo working - video link attached. Now that I look at the video again, I agree, Chuck. It does seem like the ball loses momentum going up, so I'm not sure more time would matter in this case. It does look like the diverter wiggles quite a bit, so it may also be that I need to tighten it more.

It looks like it's coming in high and hitting the metal guide on top on the "bad" side that robs momentum (you can hear it and see the metal guide vibrate). Can you lift that up so it clears the inverted peak in that part?

#7624 12 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Some play in the diverter arm is fine. It looks like the ball is contacting the diverter arm before it makes the turn in the ramp. The ball shouldn’t touch the diverter arm until it’s past the bend.
[quoted image]
This is the point at which the ball should first contact the the diverter arm.
Try bending the diverter arm down more.

Okay I'll try that next, thanks. Here's a pic of where it first contacts the diverter. You can see it move the diverter when it hits it here

2021-01-27_22-54-25 (resized).jpg
#7625 12 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It looks like it's coming in high and hitting the metal guide on top on the "bad" side that robs momentum (you can hear it and see the metal guide vibrate). Can you lift that up so it clears the inverted peak in that part?

Not sure what you mean. Lift what up, exactly?

#7626 12 months ago
Quoted from palacekeeper:

Okay I'll try that next, thanks. Here's a pic of where it first contacts the diverter. You can see it move the diverter when it hits it here
[quoted image]

Okay then if it’s not touching until there, that seems okay. But bend the arm down a bit and it seems like there’s a tad too much room between the plate on the outside of the rod and the ball. It needs to be as close as possible to the ball without touching it.

81738260-EED3-49C9-8BB0-2EEDE5DD6699 (resized).jpeg
#7627 12 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Okay then if it’s not touching until there, that seems okay. But bend the arm down a bit and it seems like there’s a tad too much room between the plate on the outside of the rod and the ball. It needs to be as close as possible to the ball without touching it. [quoted image]

Also, it looks like the ball dies and the diverter arm gets pushed out away from the wall a very tiny bit at about this point in my picture below. That's where the ball meets the transition point between the back of the ramp and the back plastic. Your ramp might need to be pulled out a little more.

IMG_20210126_162828 (resized).jpg
#7628 12 months ago
Quoted from killborn:

Also, it looks like the ball dies and the diverter arm gets pushed out away from the wall a very tiny bit at about this point in my picture below. That's where the ball meets the transition point between the back of the ramp and the back plastic. Your ramp might need to be pulled out a little more.
[quoted image]

Awesome! Okay, so next I will:

1. Move the ramp out a bit more.
2. Push the diverter down a bit more.
3. Bring the diverter in slightly more.

chuckwurt - Quick question about bringing the diverter in: I noticed that the weight of the ball pushes the diverter out a bit when you are measuring the distance. Did you set the width with the total weight of the ball on the diverter, or were you holding the ball? It looks like you are only barely holding it with your thumb. If that is the case, then the total weight of the ball is on the diverter in that picture. In mine, I held the ball when setting that distance, so my diverter is probably set way too far out!

#7629 12 months ago
Quoted from palacekeeper:

Not sure what you mean. Lift what up, exactly?

The ball is contacting the guide on the back side (lined in red) which acts as a wall to guide it down, but robs a lot of momentum. You need to bring that metal guide up or the TK rod angle down so the ball doesn't contact that upper guide until the green zone.

tk-diverter (resized).jpg
#7630 12 months ago

Hopefully this is an inspiration piece for those who are still dialing in their machines or contemplating a purchase.

Many thanks to the people who have posted info and instructions about this game! Extra thanks to chuckwurt for answering so many of these forum questions!

I finally tackled a list of small changes and it made a huge difference! Adjusted the following: TK lock arm out and down per the Stern instructions, right flipper tolerance was too tight, dialed in playfield angle with a digital gauge (needed just a little more than the centered bubble gauge to get 6.5), "motivated" left lane gate where the ball would get stuck, moved a UV wire that created a shadow under the apron, aligned opto under the Demo, focused projector, moved outlane posts, and realigned targets.

Took about 2 hours of a lazy evening to address all but one item on my list with the most difficult part being not having small standard size tools as my toolbox is almost entirely metric for cars & trucks.

I'd call it a success as within a dozen games we had, two MXV skill shots, second ever Total Isolation, new high scores, and the wife got her first TK multiball. It feels like a different machine. I would say TK locks are ~80% and if they don't stick, the diverter moves and the ball makes it to the post vs. rolling back and SDTM.

Prior to this, all I had done to this pin was clean it at ~700 plays, added a hint of wax, and rotated the flipper rubber. That alone sped up the game significantly, made Demo shots even easier, and increased our TK lock success, but the TK fails STDM were still frustrating to the point an adjustment had to be done. As for moving the outlane posts, we still get a lot of balls through there so I don't know how much that little adjustment really helped. If anything since our guests are not pinheads, it makes them just a little more happy to play just a little bit longer.

Now to fiddle with a hyperloop...

#7631 12 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The ball is contacting the guide on the back side (lined in red) which acts as a wall to guide it down, but robs a lot of momentum. You need to bring that metal guide up or the TK rod angle down so the ball doesn't contact that upper guide until the green zone.
[quoted image]

The ball would have to jump quite a ways to hit the guide above the arm, but I suppose it's possible.

Quoted from palacekeeper:

Awesome! Okay, so next I will:
1. Move the ramp out a bit more.
2. Push the diverter down a bit more.
3. Bring the diverter in slightly more.
chuckwurt - Quick question about bringing the diverter in: I noticed that the weight of the ball pushes the diverter out a bit when you are measuring the distance. Did you set the width with the total weight of the ball on the diverter, or were you holding the ball? It looks like you are only barely holding it with your thumb. If that is the case, then the total weight of the ball is on the diverter in that picture. In mine, I held the ball when setting that distance, so my diverter is probably set way too far out!

This is my ball at the base of the arm. Zoom in and note the arm/ball contact point. This is important as you pull out the ramp because you are not only moving the back of the ramp out from the back plastic, but also bringing the ball closer to the arm, moving the ball more on top of it, which only improves the momentum of the ball.

IMG_20210125_175701__01 (resized).jpg
#7632 12 months ago
Quoted from killborn:

The ball would have to jump quite a ways to hit the guide above the arm, but I suppose it's possible.

I can see where you'd say that with your setup, but his is different.

Look at the slo-mo video full screen. You can hear the "ting" and you see the red light reflection shift on the guide as it moves and the guide vibrates briefly. It's hitting the back side of it as it heads up and I don't think it has to jump at all because the angle of the TK diverter on his seems to be too high.

#7633 12 months ago
Quoted from palacekeeper:

Okay, got the slo mo working - video link attached. Now that I look at the video again, I agree, Chuck. It does seem like the ball loses momentum going up, so I'm not sure more time would matter in this case. It does look like the diverter wiggles quite a bit, so it may also be that I need to tighten it more.

Looks exactly like mine did. Your diverter arm is too steep, push it down by hand.

#7634 12 months ago
Quoted from palacekeeper:

It looks like you are only barely holding it with your thumb. If that is the case, then the total weight of the ball is on the diverter in that picture. In mine, I held the ball when setting that distance, so my diverter is probably set way too far out!

In this picture, I am holding the plunger in with one hand to close the diverter, then I used my other hand to run the ball up the diverter arm. I’m my pic, the ball is on top of the diverter. In youse video, your ball is more on the side.

Always make measurements this way. Never touch the diverter arm itself when making measurements. You don’t want that little bit of play to mess with your measurements.

PinMonk makes a good point too. His post above is precisely why the new adjustable cover exists.

#7635 12 months ago
Quoted from killborn:

The ball would have to jump quite a ways to hit the guide above the arm, but I suppose it's possible.

Trust me. It does. If you want to experiment, take you cover off and shoot a ball up there.

#7636 12 months ago
Quoted from killborn:

The ball would have to jump quite a ways to hit the guide above the arm, but I suppose it's possible.

This is my ball at the base of the arm. Zoom in and note the arm/ball contact point. This is important as you pull out the ramp because you are not only moving the back of the ramp out from the back plastic, but also bringing the ball closer to the arm, moving the ball more on top of it, which only improves the momentum of the ball.[quoted image]

Great explanation! I was trying to communicate this theory last night and couldn’t come up with it. Haha.

#7637 12 months ago

Thanks everyone for the additional info. Definitely seems like I'll need to push the arm down more, and also bring the diverter in more - both of which might be a little out of factory specs, but as many have pointed out - each machine is slightly different and these tolerances vary.

My ramp cover arrives tomorrow so I'll make these changes over the weekend and report back. Thanks again.

#7638 12 months ago

just joined the club, great game, having a ton of fun with it so far. the new code seems to have done a lot for it.

the swipe a ball thing is so cool. I really want to know if it was planned to have that the entire time, or if the sales haven't been doing too well so they added that feature in to boost hype haha

#7639 12 months ago

The swipe a ball was a total surprise for me. Brian Eddy has told me some of the stuff they intended all along (drawings), but nothing about the lock bar button.

When I talked to him at LAX last year, he seemed open to ideas, but didn’t seem to have any plans for it. Probably something that was planned later in the game.

#7640 12 months ago

I'm hoping they flush out the demogorgon bombs a little bit more. I've explained how the bomb works, and there is not much to explain, several times now yet my wife and son keep hitting that lockbar every time that button flashes killing that first demogorgon and they are always like ... huh?. Make it something you can earn and worth the use. Maybe utilize the demodog modes to earn the bombs or something. Give people a reason to like those modes Sure give the first one for the newbies to kill the first demo but for those users that can complete the demodog modes let them re-earn it for use later in the game.

#7641 12 months ago

Just save it for later in the game. Haha. Why are they hitting it right away?

#7642 12 months ago

Exactly--I never use it until the 4th or 5th Demogorgon mode. It blows up big numbers on the last mode if you play it right. Some games it never gets used if I am tanking.

#7643 12 months ago

Not pinball people. They enjoy playing but don't study machines or have real strategies. Our first machine, munsters, taught them when that light flashes hit it. Same with star wars. So it flashes and their instinct is to hit it.

#7644 12 months ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

Not pinball people. They enjoy playing but don't study machines or have real strategies. Our first machine, munsters, taught them when that light flashes hit it. Same with star wars. So it flashes and their instinct is to hit it.

That’s fine. But some games just aren’t that way. AC/DC is one, this is another, GOT is a third. They’ll learn if they want to. My daughter struggled with it too. She’s super causal and GOT was our first. That button was always to be used when you drained your collect a bonus. It was hard for her to not do that by default for all games with that button. Hell she would smack the lockbar even if there wasn’t a button. Haha.

But she eventually learned on AC/DC to not hit it unless her mutiball was ending.

If they changed this game to be able to earn more of them, it would have to be pretty hard considering one press of that button could be worth a couple hundred million at the right time.

They really just need to fight the urge that first demo mode. If they can save it for the second one, smack away.

#7645 12 months ago

Anyone know who still has the shooter rod dice kit with lighting ?

#7646 12 months ago
Quoted from Blackzarak:

Anyone know who still has the shooter rod dice kit with lighting ?

https://www.gameroom-goodies.com/stranger-things-light-up-shooter-rod-stern-pinball/

Ordered this from here two weeks ago, came in a few days.

#7647 11 months ago

https://www.twitch.tv/videos/890893776

If you watch Karl’s stream he has one with the updated ramp cover. He hasn’t touched his out of box. You can see on his the balls fly up there and have TOO much speed to the magnet.

I would recommend to everyone that doesn’t have the updated ramp cover, to get it. It appears that your adjustments do not have to be as precise when you have the ability to significantly reduce the impedance the cover puts on the ball with the adjustable cover.

So in Karl’s case I’m sure his issue will be fixed by adjusting the cover so it sits more to the right a tad to help slow the ball down more.

#7648 11 months ago

Okay so I received the adjustable ramp cover today and just got done installing it. I was 9/9 on the wall with the glass off, and 10/12 with the glass on playing normally. The two that didn't make it were questionable on speed, so I'm feeling like it's finally dialed in!

A few lessons learned to share:

In my case, I used the new instructions and started over. I went through all the measurements and removed the shim/washer from behind the ramp etc. to start with a clean slate. I installed the cover with the screws in the middle and followed all the included instructions to the letter.

1. I ended up having to still put something behind the ramp to push it out some more.
2. My diverter is less than 2" in height and out of factory specs - per feedback received earlier, but this is where it needed to be.
3. The resting position of the diverter was off, so I adjusted that - although that should not affect the TK lock. It only potentially affects the ball when lock is not active.
4. I ended up having to move the cover all the way to the left before I was successful.
5. I had to remove El from above the ramp cover (just 2 screws, no big deal) in order to get to the left back corner screw. Just too tight on space without removing it, even though the instructions did not mention this as a needed step.
6. There is a tiny washer in the envelope along with the ramp cover. Be careful not to throw it away. I almost did by accident.

Next up, I'm thinking I'll tackle the Demogorgon, but I'll wait until the UV light kit arrives.

Thanks to Chuck and everyone else that helped. Fingers crossed but I think it's finally dialed in. I even went back and played a few extra times and the ball would lock every time on the wall, except once in a while with a weak shot up the ramp, which is by design.

#7649 11 months ago
Quoted from Flash71:

10 attempts is nothing. Lol!! Trial and error. Follow all the key post and pictures and you’ll get it. I’ve prob got over 40 hours into it but it will dial in. Just gotta be patient and do things in small increments.

As someone who is considering the purchase of a premium, these kinds of comments are concerning to say the least.

I've been interested in this title from the day that it was first announced. Decided to let it mature a bit before coming back to it for possible purchase. The amount of dialing in required on this pin seems to take the cake (and I have a R&M).

Are people really spending 40 hours to get this thing dialed in?

#7650 11 months ago
Quoted from RobT:

Are people really spending 40 hours to get this thing dialed in?

Across 6 months probably close to that. But we’ve all done that to help the newbies get there faster than us. Plus this new ramp cover seems to make the process much easier.

There are 13,819 posts in this topic. You are on page 153 of 277.

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