(Topic ID: 258046)

Stranger Things Club. Join our Party!

By chuckwurt

2 years ago

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  • 13,659 posts
  • 624 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Ashram56
  • Topic is favorited by 235 Pinsiders


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“Which game are you getting?”

  • Pro 152 votes
  • Premium 130 votes
  • LE 120 votes

(402 votes)

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17 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #235 Be sure to check PRO Ball Lock Post, it can come loose. Posted by chuckwurt (2 years ago)

Post #712 Replacement rubber info Posted by fooflighter (2 years ago)

Post #1273 TECH: TOYS. Projector focus adjustment instructions Posted by rs812 (1 year ago)

Post #1717 TECH: PLAYFIELD. TK Lock and deflector adjustment instructions Posted by chuckwurt (1 year ago)

Post #2052 MOD:Screen material to improve projector image quality Posted by dri (1 year ago)

Post #5955 MOD:Stranger Things action button surround and shooter plate Posted by pinballslave (1 year ago)

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#3511 1 year ago

So is Stranger Things the first pin Stern has cost-reduced the cabinet screened warning out of? It's just a black sticker with yellow print now. Was BK or JP that way? Every time I think Stern has cost-reduced every possible thing, they find something else. Durability rating of that sticker for routes is -7.

#3513 1 year ago
Quoted from Returner:

I got a sticker on my JP Premium. Cabinet dated Jan 15 2020.

Oh, right. The build date on this Stranger Things is also January. I wonder if this started in the new year? Whatever the case, more lame stealth quality degradation by Stern. Boo.

#3519 1 year ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Such an awesome game and theme the playfield needed to be schmick....my local playfield restorer just finished my custom requests for me! Original playfield planked...

You can just link the youtube video directly and save people the facebook tracking:

Looks pretty cool. How long are you letting it cure before installing it?

#3521 1 year ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Sorry for the link stuff up! I'm not super IT savvy.
Cure will be about 3 months.

Heh, 3 months sounds great. I let a ToM cure for a YEAR before I installed it - just to be sure.

#3528 1 year ago
Quoted from unwallflower:

Bought a Stranger Things LE last week - my first pinball machine! Finally got it unboxed and set up today. Updated the code, and when I turned it back on it’s been stuck on “initializing” for ~45 minutes now... is that normal for an update or should I try to reboot it? I don’t want to turn it off while it’s doing something if this is normal.

Reboot. Power off for a good 15 seconds and try again.

#3530 1 year ago
Quoted from usandthem:

Officially joined the club on Saturday. Broke a new personal record for distance traveled to get a machine. Anyway, I absolutely love it. You guys that say this has that "one more game" feel are right on the money. Two questions and pardon me if they've been addressed. Both have to do with the shot to the left of the demogorgon (Mystery, Demodog shot). Ball seems to get hung up on or downright stuck under the gate on that shot sometimes. Any solutions on that? Also, why does that shot register a walkie talkie? Thanks!

Check to see of the ball gate there moves freely. Also, what is the pitch of your playfield set to? Level side to side?

#3532 1 year ago
Quoted from unwallflower:

Yep, that did it. Thank you!

If it happens more, you might have a bad SD card. Keep an eye on it. Failed boots seem to be a symptom.

#3540 1 year ago
Quoted from usandthem:

Thank you for responding. May I ask what you mean by “moves freely”.? It definitely seems spring loaded in that when you push it, it snaps back.

Just make sure the gate opens fully and closes completely. Sometimes the little bent part on the side is too long or bent wrong and gets caught when moving, preventing the gate from opening and closing correctly.

If it happens a lot, you can also slo-mo record that area with your phone when you make the shot to see if reviewing the video will give you a clue.

#3578 1 year ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Okay what’s the trick to updating Stranger Things. I download the software to my scan disk Fat32 formatted 64gb hard which is brand new. When I plug it into the usb on the board and turn on the machine is doesn’t read it.. Do I have to do anything with the dip switches?

What did you unzip the files with?

#3600 1 year ago

Is anyone getting clipping out of mostly the left speaker on 0.90? Some of the callouts when there's an effect playing at the same time (and music) gets very crunchy and I think the speaker's clipping.

#3610 1 year ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

So... what's the lockdown bar button for?

Same as iron maiden. Launching the ball, entering the high score letters, starting the game. I assume the video mode will use it, though.

#3613 1 year ago
Quoted from Gee_Bananas:

n00b here,
Don't own a single pin and considering a STh Premium as our first for the fam. Code aside, all the mech problems kinda scare me (TK ball lock, ramp gap, flipper power, ball post...etc.) especially for someone who has NEVER worked on a pin before. I'm not adverse to being hands on, just wondering if it's worth the trouble/$ for a first time pin owner; especially since I may not even know if there is actually a problem!
Local dealer is selling a premium, with UV kit. I don't know how many plays it has, and don't know if he's tweaked it/tuned it all the way.
Go for it? Get a NIB from a distributor? Or go with a safer option for a first pin?

Get a Deadpool Prem. Circle back to STh once the code is more mature and issues on the Prem/LE are worked out. Deadpool Prem/LE is fantastic. Play it, enjoy it for a year then decide if you still want Stranger Things.

#3640 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Not true on my game. A shot that’s a guarantee no doubter lock on game one, will be 50/50 by game 3-4. Same for the demo mouth. That same spot on the flipper that was 100% mouth before will now be 25-30%.
Somethings up homie.
I’ve had my pitch from 6.0 to 7.5 and doesn’t seem to make a difference on my game. So I put it to 6.5-6.6 range and left it.

Might be worth trying an iphone app that calculates the speed of an object from video. Measure at the start of play and then again 30 minutes later to see if the flipper power has faded.


#3673 1 year ago
Quoted from Leo13:

Also, I have issues with my TK Lock as well, and I think the diverter is not closing fast enough when the balls crosses the optos.

Did you try recording it in slo-mo with your phone to see if it really is the optos triggering the diverter too slowly?

#3719 1 year ago

Re-did the DANGER sign on the left ball return in 3D to eliminate all the visible screws. The "DANGER" lettering is angled towards the player, also. The mounting is similar to the Iron Maiden 3D Anubis I did where it's all hidden to clean up the top and get rid of 3 giant screws ruining the look. Working on the one for the right side now, too. I'll sell them as a set with the mounting hardware and tool to install them.
ST-DANGER-Hidden Mount-sml (resized).jpg

Also have a gradient red to orange lens bracket made for the "Burn it Back" insert. When I settle on a final color for the 2x insert, I'll have all 3 up in the pinmonk store as a set.
After-sml (resized).jpg

#3721 1 year ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

I'm not proud to say I've spent WAY too many hours fine tuning, adjusting, testing and re-testing this POS lock mech.
I am 100% sure that raising up/moving the plastic cover and bending up the angled metal hood has helped, but it's still inconsistent. Grrrrrrr
However, I still really love this game though. I keep pressing start! I actually bought STH only 14 days after I recieved my Medieval Royal and I've barely touched Medieval since. That's saying a lot I think

Well, the shot maps are almost identical, so that's not a huge surprise.

#3723 1 year ago
Quoted from Makarov:

My tilt graphics order arrived, sideblades and a cup holder
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The woods art blades look pretty good. I wish they did something with UV-reactive inks, though. Not much of a difference...

#3730 1 year ago
Quoted from pacman11:

So I am still having problems updating my game using my I-mac. I've downloaded the Pro version from Stern's website and then copied the file to my USB Fat32 formatted drive and when I put into my game it doesn't recognize it's even plug in to update. Anyone else have problems with Mac?

You can't just copy the zip file you download. You have to take the files OUT of the archive you downloaded and then put THOSE in the root of the USB.

#3736 1 year ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Like this? Just take the exec file out of the folder?
[quoted image]

You want the two files on the left in that picture in the root directory of the USB drive.

#3750 1 year ago
Quoted from drfrightner:

Love the code update!!! The game is getting better and better!

You won't love it as much once that bitch Barb plays her indian-giver routine a few times, stealing 40 mill from you each time. I used to be sympathetic to her character, now when she gets pulled into the pool, I cheer.

1 week later
#3888 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Still ignoring them. Make them 20 and 30 million and I’ll play along. Having the ball on a flipper is still more important to me.
I have gotten good at plunging the middle two drops to a ball guide bounce to a trap though. That’s been my go to.

10 million with 2x playfield lit should give you 20 million for that saucer shot.

#3945 1 year ago
Quoted from Looprunner:

I have a pro and my demo shot magically settled in about 3 months ago. My flipper on the other hand continues to stick after about 6 to 8 games. I haven't taken it apart to date. My wife plays the game every day and doesn't want it to be down. We just live with the sticking flipper at this point.

Replace both coil stops with the pinball life one. Your flipper will stop sticking. You likely have a broken coil stop. Soon you will have two. Stern ships ones they know are defective.


Easy fix. Takes about 10 minutes total to do both.

#3950 1 year ago
Quoted from monte_:

I agree with you. Horrible designed mechanism. I still like the machine, but this does ruin the gameplay. And it looks like you can't make the flippers any stronger. They are already maxed out.

You could put a stronger coil on it, but then you'd be beating the crap out of the closer stuff like standups.

#3952 1 year ago
Quoted from monte_:

I think I will leave the coil alone for now and see what Stern says over the next month or two. Thanks for the advice.

It will probably end up as a damaged design, even with fixes. We'll see if Stern does better than just eventually disabling the feature and calling it "as designed" like they did for the GoT diverter issue.

#3960 1 year ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

Ah and I just got my first down vote for no reason. I feel like I'm finally a real member of pinside...

You haven't truly arrived until you get a downvote from dingleberry. I got an upvote from dingle once and it bummed me out. Seemed wrong.

#3972 1 year ago

Couldn't figure out why the ball was suddenly getting caught under the demogorgon sometimes. Took it apart to see what was happenening and it turns out the one-way gate on the left had come out of the bracket. Irritating to get to and fix when a factory crimp on the wire after it was fed through the hole in the gate bracket would have stopped this from happening at all.

Wire off the gate bracket...
ball-trap (resized).jpg

And fixed...
ball-trap--fixed (resized).jpg

#3980 1 year ago

Anyone know what the "Demodog spinning target" in the feature matrix for Pro/Prem/LE is talking about?

EDIT: NVM. It's the spinner for the left orbit with the demodog sticker on it.

#3983 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Just played for 45 minutes like this, only going for demogorgon modes, and the demo shot was money the whole time. The ultimate test will be to play normal until I can’t make the shot anymore, then turn the fan on wait ten minutes then start playing again. I’ll report back on my findings. May solve the issue of the magnet lock becoming inconsistent after extended play too. But I can’t test that until my new plastic cover comes in. I messed mine up elongating the mounting holes and bending the metal hood. [quoted image]

Haha! Looks like it's time for a PinMonk power flippers quiet fan kit.

#3995 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballer247:

I am really wanting to buy a NIB pro but concerned about the recent playfield issues! Have any of you had any problems with your pro, premium or LE? I know the playfield will dimple I just don’t want any clear coat issues, pooling/chipping. I’m sure several of you will suggest I get a premium or LE instead of the pro but I just don’t want to drop the coin for one right now. Thx for any advice!

LOTS of dimpling (even in areas that don't get airballs like under and to the left of the demogorgon), but no clear pooling or chipping on the one here.

#4014 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I can’t think of a single game that’s incomplete outside of new games that are still being actively worked on. That’s feature complete. Every game could use tweaks and bug fixes.

Munsters is the only true stinkbomb in the Spike era that Stern calls complete that literally is almost exactly as INCOMPLETE as Batman '66 was at launch. Unfortunately that was Dwight. But from the stream, it looks like TMNT is a much different story, thankfully. Munsters will be a stain on Dwight's rep for a long time.

#4020 1 year ago

Stern's over-use of giant screws to secure (i.e. mess up the look of) plastic pieces to playfields and ramps always bugs me. It's no different with Stranger Things. So, I redesigned the DANGER and hnl plastics in 3D and made them hidden mount, eliminating all visible screws. Once I got those done, the corner on the left suddenly looked wrong, so I made a matching hidden mount corner piece for that, too. Should have the set of three in the Pinmonk store pretty soon.

corner-compare (resized).jpg
corner_close (resized).jpg

#4052 1 year ago

So this is the last of the Stranger Things mods. I used Stranger Things to make it, but it's actually a universal item for any of the Pro/Prem badges on Stern Spike 2 machines to dress them up a bit. Choose a color (the GIF below is a bunch of them chained together), pop the badge off, snap it into the frame and re-attach. The frame still has a small lip, even once the badge is installed. It really dresses up the area. It'll be in the PinMonk store tonight.

#4055 1 year ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

So I just had yet another crash on .92. I've lost count now.
This time it was a ball draining down the left out lane. I received "mystery is lit" and then the game crashed.
It has happened so many times under so many different scenarios. I don't see a common denominator here.
I've emailed Stern previously yet I hear nothing back so I don't know if they're even checking.

They're redoing mystery entirely last I heard. It seems to be involved with a number of the crash bugs in various ways.

#4058 1 year ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

Before I thought the extra ball/mystery lane was connected with the crash. But this was when mystery was lit from the outlane.

It's whenever mystery is involved, strange things (as in, unintended) can happen.

#4067 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Haha. What is that?

Well, I guess we know what they went with to drive the projector video. Seems weird that they wouldn't place an order with that scrubbed from the ROM.


Only question now is which model did they go with.

I'm guessing this one, since it's the cheapest I see on a quick look, supports 1080p/30 and has HDMI out:


Probably $40-50 or less in quantity.

#4079 1 year ago
Quoted from JDub03:

Just a heads up for you Pro owners. My right ramp didn’t come with an air ball deflector. I haven’t seen any Pro with one in pics yet. I have had massive airballs and the ball whipping so fast it doesn’t go thru the optic. I emailed Chas and two days later the deflector showed up. Looks like the Prem/LE have em. But reach out to Stern and they will take care of you.

What piece are you talking about? The one that goes over the switchback part of the ramp? If so, the Pro I've got has it.

#4102 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I only expect a few of those to be done. They seem to tweak the modes with every update.

Mirkwood needs more time or less ramps. I've literally only finished it once. ONCE.

#4104 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I think it has the longest timer at 60 seconds. That’s fine imo.
I have only completed it it once or twice, but don’t think it’s too hard. Love the callouts from hopper too. Anyone maybe it past the 5 million callout?

Shaving a couple ramps off the completion requirement would make it more achievable. I've been within one or two ramps of finishing quite a bit, but only DONE it once, in a multiball.

#4106 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

See that sounds like the perfect difficulty. So close so many times, then the few times you do get it, it’s awesome.
Also since the wizard modes scorings will be based on mode success, I don’t think all the modes should be gimmies.

It's too much like chopping wood with the repetitive same shots, and then failing almost all the time. Not fun. Maybe throw in a third shot after every 3 ramp shots, so it's 9 ramp shots and 3 of the "other" shot or something.

#4133 1 year ago
Quoted from Initiative:

shooter rod delivered today - connected to CN15 running .94 code on my prem. no lights. anyone hear from stern on what the dilio is here?

Does the new 0.94 code activate the lighting or add a setting in the menu to turn it on?

EDIT: I didn't notice anything on either the adjustments or diagnostics menus for 0.94. So...

#4140 1 year ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

So does anyone have the stern shooter rod working?

No one on pinside. Seems like it's probably a code thing that hasn't been activated yet.

#4172 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Also vireland not sure if you noticed but Mirkwood timer is now 70 seconds instead of 60

That was the first thing I noticed. Brian Eddy and I are of one mind, apparently.

Also found a couple more bugs in 0.94 already.

#4174 1 year ago
Quoted from finnflash:

I like how mystery can start modes, Demo modes and upside down now. Can it also advance you in a mode?

It can cause problems now, though. I had a condition where one shot to the mystery lane spotted me an insert which started Monster Hunting, and the mystery award itself started demogorgon, so I had a Monster Hunting mode that was blocked by the demogorgon ramp and impossible to finish.

And I do not like that video mode isn't even on the mystery list as a "to do" now.

#4178 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Does the demo mouth spot the center drops like in total isolation? I would think they would’ve taken care of that here as well.

I don't think so because when the demo mode was over, nothing was completed on Monster Hunting and I only had a few seconds before Monster Hunting ended. I'll pay closer attention next time it happens.

The other bug I found was a slow rolling backhand up the right orbit that activates the switch to start a mode can CHANGE the mode after it starts if the ball dribbles back down and hits the switch again right away. I slow-rolled and barely made the switch, which started Mama mode (saw the marquee screen for the mode), looked down as the ball came back and actually PLAYED Turn up the Heat mode. That was a weird one.

#4181 1 year ago

Stern official shooter rod light will not be lit until the next code update, confirmed. Don't bother swapping node boards or checking voltages, it's not active in the code yet.

#4192 1 year ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

I think having the two cars balances the playfield well. The upper left corner was pretty bare. It is funny playing and not seeing the ball go all the way around that ramp though. So used to that.
I also found this little Dart creature as well but have not found a spot for it yet.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I dunno, the cars just seem way too big because of the main Demogorgon setting the scale for the area. It makes it seem like it's a season 3 Demogorgon as big as a car or a house.

What's the scale on the Dart? If it was smaller than the main demogorgon (about half as big), that might be a logical choice for crawling out of the pops or where the upper right car is.

#4194 1 year ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

The scale doesn't bother me on the cars. They would have to be way too big to match the scale of the main monster. The dart is about 5 inches long and probably pretty close to the scale of the main demo monster. Maybe an inch big. All theoretical of course. Not sure how big dart was in the show at that point. It was right before it changed fully into a demodog.

Yeah dart was like a large dog when it was hit into the basement in the LURE DART mode. Only a fraction of the full demogorgon and way less than a car, so the scale would be all out of whack.

#4199 1 year ago

So digging into the flipper fade issue. I now have the fan brackets made and have started getting baseline temperature ranges before I kick on the fans and see how much (or if) they help. These are the same fans as the SFAN-001s I sell to quiet the meanwell Stern 500W power supplies, so they're small, quiet, and only draw a small fraction of an amp each.

The flipper coils definitely heat up, but since I've never tested them before I don't know what's normal yet. In my first relatively short game, they went from 76 degrees (basically ambient room temperature) to 115 degrees when the maybe 5 minute game ended. Strictly from (perhaps flawed) observation, holding seems to be worse than flipping, but both raise the temperature of the coils. Left and Right max temps were within 1.5 degrees on the game I played when it ended, which I thought would be a wider range based on what flipper I favor.

The mount the brackets use piggyback onto existing hardware on the underside of the PF, so it will be completely reversible.

#4203 1 year ago

Completed some more testing of the coil temps. Played a few games, including a long-ish game, concentrating on flipping a lot and holding more than I usually do. Again, the coils started at about 76 degrees. This game I started noticing fade happening when it was in the 140s. Severe fade when it was in the 150s. My probe refused to measure after 157 degrees, so I need to get another gauge if I want to see how hot the coils can really get, but I already have enough data to see what difference the fans make. Basically, if I can keep the coils in the 120-130 temp MAX the coil power should remain consistent through a whole game, no matter how much you use the flippers for flipping or holding. Keeping the coil power as perfectly consistent as possible through every game is the goal here.

#4205 1 year ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

I think it's obvious to everybody that you and your ilk ( chuckwurt , etc.) are WAY smarter than me. (Of course, I rode the short bus to school and took classes in a closet, so...) What's the normal operating temperature of a coil that's been played for a while. Are the temperature readings you're getting consistent with other games, or way out of whack?

That's the problem, I have no idea what the normal range is for flipper coil temps because I've never measured them over time (has ANYONE?). Back in the LotR days, I just bought the brute force coil and called it a day, happy I could finally still make the ring shot at the end of long games. Never occurred to me to measure the temps and see about installing cooling fans, which I think would be the better approach because that way the coil isn't overly-strong at the start just so it can brute force its way through when it gets hotter later.

But on Stranger Things, the fact that I could easily feel the fade coming on in the 140s and it was severe and undeniable by the 150 means there is clearly room for improvement. I had the meter connected and set up to the right, so I could just look at it when I started feeling weakness in the flipper shots. I'm actually surprised this issue hasn't been raised in tournaments, since fade on long games does affect your ability to make shots.

#4206 1 year ago

Okay, just finished testing with the fan installed on only one side so I could compare with and without. The prior tests show that I used/heated the left and right fan almost equally when I play, so that's good enough for this next comparison.

WITH the fan kit installed, the right flipper coil range was 79-94 degrees over the course of the game, and it varied up and down a few degrees during the game, not just up.

WITHOUT the fan kit installed, on the same game played, the left flipper coil was 79-123 degrees. It never went down, only up. 123 was where it happened to be when the game ended.

This was about a 7-8 minute game, so it didn't come close to fade level, but these initial results are very promising for being able to keep both coils at a consistent narrow-range performance level from beginning to end with no fade at all once both sides have the flipper coil fan kit installed.

EDIT: Played a bunch more games now with the coil temp probes installed. Some of the games lasting 10-15 minutes and the fan is even better than I expected. At the end of the longest game, the temps were:

Left flipper (no fan) 130F and still rising (never going down)
Right Flipper (fan cooled) 97F to 101F degrees (stayed in this range)

So the fan kit flipper coil was 30 to 33 degrees LESS than the uncooled coil that would have kept rising in temperature! I think we have a winner that will work for all Spike 2 Stern machines to prevent even a small amount of flipper fade on long games. I'll be finalizing the mounting hardware and wire harness design then sending some test kits out, then once those are field tested, these'll be in the Pin Monk store.

#4211 1 year ago
Quoted from Kharris:

Just a thought but has anyone got the stranger points mystery award? I noticed that the score was all ones and zeros is there a binary code hidden message? I don’t know how to read binary but just a thought.

It is 8 digits, which is a byte, so that's suspicious. But if you run it forward you have 216, and if you run it backwards, you have 27. Neither seems especially significant offhand. Pretty sure it's just about the Elevens.

#4230 1 year ago

Spent a bunch more time and it seems like the cooling kit on each flipper prevents it from getting to even 110F. Usually it hangs around 97-102F. This is a huge improvement over nothing on the flippers when it maxed out my temp probe at 157F.

Flipper fade seems to be impossible once these are installed for each flipper.

Getting the production harnesses made now and should have these available in a few weeks. I'll keep playing and testing this until then.

cool-kit-right (resized).jpg

#4232 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Great to hear man! And those are great and sneak right in there.
Yeah my fans have made the game much more consistent, but these are much better than mine it seems.
So glad you took this on. I’ll be buying a set for sure.

Yeah, I had to redesign a few times to get it to fit right, there's less space than you think. I settled on the slightly angled setting because the mount already put it off to the one end of the coil, and straight on was very tight to the GI lighting socket below it. I might have to adjust the brackets per machine if other titles benefit from it, but it works well for Stranger Things.

I'll also probably be collecting coil play temp data from here out on new machines. My results from this one were pretty surprising.

#4234 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I have a buddy metallik that puts baby fans on all his stern games.

Having seen the temperature range of an uncooled Spike2 coil now, I'm actually surprised it's not required for tournaments to have cooling to keep the temps in a stable fade-free range. Without it there's no way to guarantee one player isn't playing at a disadvantage to others from too-hot coils that have started to fade. Paying close attention once I knew what to look for, fade on Stranger Things starts in the 130s, gets very noticible in the 140s, and ridiculous in the 150s.

#4236 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Yeah they are so powerful though that none of the games until now really suffered from the fade. Maybe change the timing of shots a tad bit, but never made them unhittable.

People have told me they have felt it in long Iron Maiden games. I'm putting probes on that machine next. I also made a modified version of the fan bracket with a slot to hold the probe precisely over (we'll, under if the playfield's down) the flipper coil that I can use on any Spike 2 machine now to gather more data.

But even changing the timing of shots due to a slightly sluggish flip that increases over time could affect tournament scoring.

#4243 1 year ago
Quoted from finnflash:

since the new code I haven't had many games under 350m, and hit the 750+ 3 times.
But cant beat my 14 year olds 911m.

Definitely seems like the newer code is higher-scoring.

#4247 1 year ago
Quoted from twenty84:

I've felt the same way you do about how the flippers feel after 20 min or so on this game. That said now that my TK lock is really adjusted well I don't think it makes a difference and it also doesn't make a difference in a friend who has his lock set up similarly. I haven't tried the fan yet, but I've thought about it. All I'm saying it should be possible to objectively measure what you and others are experiencing - I wasn't able to do it and I do see that anyone else has either. I also agree that when the coil voltage is the same, the resistance increases (due to heat), then the current must go down along with the magnetic field strength. All I can say is this doesn't seem to be the predominate factor, or even yield measurable difference, in terms of how quickly the flipper actually moves. I would love to see someone demonstrate an effect that can be objectively measured. If this is a real effect it seems it should be not only easily measured but effect every Stern game made and that simply isn't something that I or most others have noticed - at least beyond the right flipper on this game.

Might also boil down to play style. From the temp data I gathered over the past week, holds do not raise the max coil temp as high as a lot of flipping.

#4253 1 year ago
Quoted from twenty84:

I'll give you that. Mine got up to about 120F max with play, you describe 157F and it sounds like it may go even higher than that as you were near the limit of your ability to measure it.

Heh, I went OVER the limit of my ability to measure temp with current hardware. 157F is where my probes got off the train. But after setting the baseline for increase of flip vs hold, it was obvious flip made coils hotter than hold, so I was concentrating on flipping as much as possible to get it into a "long game fade" quicker than it would normally happen.

I'm pretty sure you can brute force the fade with a bigger coil like in the LotR days, but that will be stronger for everything from the start just so it's not less strong when it fades. What are the unintended consequences of that? More airballs? More wear faster to targets? Cracked ramp entrances? I think keeping the existing coil design within baseline temp ranges where they perform well consistently is a better plan or I wouldn't have spent the time on it.

I will say that it's frustrating to play the game for temps when I can't get the cooled coils over 95F now without really grinding hard.

#4273 1 year ago
Quoted from Looprunner:

I have an issue where my flipper really sticks after about 20 minutes. I was going to rebuild the flippers but my wife didn't want the game to be down during the lockdown. She probably has about 400 plays on it. I've been thinking it's time to investigate the issue. Stern told me it could be a potential issue with the coil. Could it possibly be the same issue? I'm not experiencing weakness though.

Pretty sure this is the coil stop like others have said. It's a 10 minute job, total, if that. I'd swap them out immediately.

#4275 1 year ago
Quoted from usandthem:

What the hell?!? I'm having the game of my life (ended up being 650 million when my previous high had been around 350 million. I'm on the second Total Isolation. I'm getting jackpots left and right. Eleven is staring at what looks like Castle Byers, the ramp starts to come down, I'm getting excited, not knowing quite what to expect, and then ramp stops half way. What's up with that? Software glitch? There is no malfunction with the ramp. I played a couple of games after where the ramp functioned as normal.

You got to the secret sequel mode to Bullshit, "F-you." It's a lot less charming.

#4279 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I’ve done it once and it was for around 200mm. Crazy.

So definitely want to start 2x before that mode.

#4285 1 year ago
Quoted from Makarov:

The tip on starting multi during demodog mode has made that mode a lot more fun for me thank you chuckwurt. Having a blast with the machine.
I ordered the shooter rod hopefully they light it up soon, I'm surprised there's nothing on the stern site that says it doesnt light up

From what I heard, the shooter rod light is targeted for the next update.

#4298 1 year ago
Quoted from tk375:

Hello ST owners! I got this coming this Tuesday. Can't wait to play ST! Any mods I should know about besides Hopper's Blazer? TIA!
[quoted image]

Well, quiet fan kit is the only must-have I've got, but there are some other nice ones to put gradient color in the white inserts, too.

#4306 1 year ago
Quoted from tk375:

Yeah, a buddy of mine told me you cannot use the plastic protectors with the UV kit. I wonder if he knew what he was talking about. Thanks, I am gonna look into that! (Can't wait to get my machine).

The protectors go UNDER the plastics, so I don't see how that would be a problem for the UV effect...

#4310 1 year ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

Temp is really the only thing that makes sense (as far as flipper performance), when you get the shot set up properly. You could always hook up a clamp meter (then push max read button) on the primary winding. Test on a fresh game and then test after 2-3 hours of play. Or maybe check it with a gauss meter to see if that value has dropped overtime.
Obviously there are other problems with the mech, but as you know you can mitigate those with adjustments.
Fans might drop the temp 5-10 degrees? Think I might go the LOTR coil route though, or just keep it disabled for now.

Fans drop the temp up to 57 degrees. The uncooled flipper in my test maxed out my probe at 157 degrees when I worked the flippers hard in a long game. The cooled flipper? Barely over 100. Now, with both fans installed, I can't even seem to break 100F TRYING, so that means zero flipper fade for as long a game as you can manage with the fans installed, which is a huge improvement.

Stranger Things flipper fade seems to subtly start in the 130F range, then get bad in the 140Fs, and gets ATROCIOUS in the 150Fs. I'll be gathering flipper temp data on all the Sterns from here out doing realtime temp with/without comparison graphs. I'm surprised no one has done it yet.

But yeah, I'm firmly of the belief that keeping the coils in the factory design cool so they perform to original spec is the way to go rather than brute forcing it with much stronger coils and potentially breaking or cracking stuff prematurely over time just so the flippers have enough oomph for a long game.
cool-kit-right (resized).jpg

Everything's done for the cooling kits (brackets, fans, hardware). All I'm waiting on are the wiring harnesses because I have to build some protection into them in case a fan shorts out or something. Should be a matter of a few weeks and they'll go in the PinMonk store here on pinside.

#4321 1 year ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

In the process of moving and got the game setback up and played for the first time in while. I love playing it but really still feel like I have no idea where I am with modes. Dont really see how I am starting a mode or not seeing much direction how to complete the modes. Only played a few games but I def think I need to find a recent tutorial. Adding the UV kit in the next week or so which will make the upside down even better.

Just watch the large round yellow and orange inserts (I put a green line next to) for the four main shots (left orbit BIKES, left ramp WALKIE TALKIES, right orbit WRIST ROCKETS, right ramp BINOCULARS). Each time you complete one of those shots it lights an insert in that lane. When you have them all lit for a lane it's time for a mode to start.

WHICH mode you start is determined by which of the mode inserts are lit (the orange "Y" shaped circle bunch below the two left shot inserts, and the yellow flaccid dick and balls-shaped ones below the right shot inserts)

lower_pf_shots (resized).jpg

#4323 1 year ago

I've been wondering what hidden messages Eddy is trying to send here...

#4328 1 year ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Perfect thx
Are the modes random?

Count covered that part, but I forgot to mention that shooting the mystery lane to the right of the left ramp also will spot an insert two or three times to help get you into the first mode.

#4330 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

It will spot shots until you’ve played two modes.
The saucer will spot demo dog targets until you’ve played one demo dog mode too.

Haha, I never paid close enough attention to realize it was spotting that many.

#4357 1 year ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

Wow, that's a substantial drop.

It's an extreme case, but I played the game long and hard to really test the limits. 157 is where the left coil maxed out my probe, so it maybe could have gone even higher. But most people are probably hitting the 120-130s for mid-length games, and fade just starts to be perceptible in the 130s from my experiments.

But yeah with the cooling fans, getting even over 100F is very hard.

#4372 1 year ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

Curious why don't other Stern games exhibit this overheating of the flipper coils? I would think this is friction related with this model or the coils are underspec;d. You shouldn't need fans on flipper coils. Kudos for your creative problem solving to enjoy the game with snappy flippers but I would think this is a parts issue that Stern needs to address. Did anyone contact support?

It's been mentioned on long games for Iron Maiden, TRON, and (a couple posts up) Black Knight 3 as well. Having measured the temps for Stranger Things in-game, I'm sure there are others and people just didn't realize it.

The issue is threefold, first you have to have a mid to longish game, second a play style that flips a lot instead of holds makes it happen more, and third you have to NOTICE the shot timing is changing (VERY SUBTLY at first, but once it gets into the 140F+ range, it becomes obvious) AND realize it's due to the coil temp. Most people that have had it happen don't realize it's the machine and not them. It took chuckwurt weeks to think coil temp could be the issue and he plays a lot. Mortals didn't have a chance.

#4412 1 year ago
Quoted from finnflash:

I noticed that the new ramp has already cut through the new mylar in 2 days. Is there a way to not have it open at the end of every game?

That definitely should be an option in the settings. I hate it's down in attract mode.

#4415 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Your guys’ ramps are down in attract mode?
Pro or premium? Mines never down in attract mode. And it’s always cycling through projector images.


#4421 1 year ago
Quoted from JDub03:

Fellow pro owner, ramp is down in attract as well. I also have a line building on a new machine. Only a matter of time now.

Brian said he'd put a system option to leave the ramp up in attract for Pros on the list of things to do.

#4437 1 year ago
Quoted from finnflash:

For the people that can hit the demo mouth, does it work with both flippers?
I adjusted mine but can only make it with the left flipper if I hold it and it's a perfect shot.

Left flipper is easier but right does work. There's a very narrow range on the flipper to shoot and have it go in.

#4447 1 year ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

I'd be interested to see what the demogorgon looks like after trimming it. Might be my next step. On the right side of the demogorgon on mine I see a large chunk of the frame. Stern has said engineering doesn't think it would affect the shot but I cant understand that. Tonight I made the shot maybe 5 times which is much better than I had been but I am still seeing many shots not going that look like they were perfect. Tried playing with flipper power and cranking things up as high as they go seems to work the best now.
[quoted image]

Slo-mo record the demogorgon entrance as you hit it over and over with the glass off from the left flipper (which should be the easiest). Then examine the slo-mo shots to see how exactly the ball is physically being rejected at the entrance (and if you happen to get one in, how does that look?). iPhone is a fantastic pinball diagnostic tool for this because of the slo-mo recording feature.

Once you have some slo-mo to go on, it will become less about guessing and more about fixing the actual issue with yours.

#4457 1 year ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

Ha, turns out my phone does have slo-mo. I didn't think I had anything that would do that. Will give it a try and see what's what. Thanks

Most of them do these days. It's an excellent diagnostic tool. If you can't get it slow enough to see what's happening, send me a link to the video and I'll slow it down even more.

#4462 1 year ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

For those that have put the new ramp on is it digging into your playfield as well? It almost looks like it's cut through the new mylar. I'm getting an unsightly white line forming where it touches that is very noticeable after 2 days when the ramp is up. I tried cleaning it with novus but it only got marginally better.

Maybe adjust the ramp position sensor underneath so it doesn't drop the ramp quite as far down, so the ramp is still making contact, but it's not digging in as hard.

#4464 1 year ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

ok cool, Didn't realize there was a sensor down there for it. Will take a look

One switch tells it when it's up, one tells it when it's down. You should be able to make it stop sooner by bending the "down sensor" switch arm a little so it triggers sooner.

If you need more than that, maybe you can loosen the collar on the drive arm and advance/retard it for a bigger change.


#4472 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Right only. Left it at stock power of 255. You have to cut the diode off it though.
But to be honest fans make the biggest difference. Definitely get vireland ’s when they are ready.

Harnesses for the fan kits are done. Just waiting for the first production samples to test. Everything else is ready to go.

I'm doing temperature testing on Iron Maiden coils this weekend to see what kind of temps it throws out for long games, too.

#4476 1 year ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

Getting it on youtube was easy, getting it off the phone I'm still working on. Can stick it on dropbox once I figure that out.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I was able to get the video from youtube and slowed it down some more, although with the speed of the ball, it doesn't help much more.

You might be able to loosen the hex screw for the collar that has the bump on it that triggers the switch to advance it a little so it turns off before the ramp is pushed too far down.

#4480 1 year ago
Quoted from Captchaos:

Just received the ST shooter rod. No directions! Anyone know where to plug in the LED lead? Fits in one spot on the board but doesn't illuminate

The code to illuminate it hasn't been released yet, so dark shooter rod and bitter tears for you.

#4490 1 year ago
Quoted from Georgeh:

Where is attract mode in settings I can’t find it

Not in there yet, if you're talking about the setting for the ramp behavior in attract mode.

#4543 1 year ago
Quoted from tk375:

I have a problem with my ramp. gets stuck for a few seconds when the mode ends or when you beat the Demogorgon. if you hit the drop targets it goes back up. The ramp does this 10% of the time. Anyone experience this? Thanks in advance! [quoted image]

Check the two switches under the PF on the wheel that tell the machine when the ramp has completed its up or down. Sounds like a loose wire or flaky switch. Put it in switch test mode and see if both work, and then wiggle the wires to them and see if it makes the switch trigger.

#4561 1 year ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

Yeah, played 30 minutes or so of my new potc and came back to St and the first demo shot went in. Looks like on my machine the demo shot is very power dependant. I'll be looking into that fan upgrade when it's available

Wiring harnesses should be here late next week.

#4592 1 year ago
Quoted from tk375:

Yes, all leds turn off and the monitor at the same time. machine is not turning on now. I flashed a new SD Card, waited 10 minutes, tried to leave a flashdrive in the computer to see if it recover... Nothing...

Do you have a multimeter? I'd check to make sure 48v is coming out of the power supply and not less, then if that's ok, check the output from the power distribution board.

#4600 1 year ago
Quoted from tk375:

It's a flash drive that had the code. it was removed. I just happened to take the picture when the machine was switched on. One thing though, I don't hear a fan moving at all. I need to get a multimeter...

The fan is thermally switched. If there's not enough load to get the power supply over 120 degrees, it won't turn on. And if it does turn on, it will turn off again when it drops to 104 degrees.

#4635 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

How do you complete trap em? Seems to go on forever for me. I’ve only collected 4 super jackpots though.

I think you just play until you run it down to 1 ball. That's what Brian indicated. Basically, make the Demo shots collect jackpots, repeat until the mode ends when you only have 1 ball left.

1 week later
#4714 1 year ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

speaking of tweaking I'm wondering what people recommend for scratch removal on the ramps. I've had the ramps off probably more than 20 times now and there are a few scratches, mainly on the bottom of the right ramp near the sling from the screw on the outlane ball guide. I don't remember which time I forgot to put down towels when working on the machine and caused the scratches but they are there and deep enough to be visible and annoying. Pretty sure novus won't take it out but I am afraid to take sandpaper to it. Just wondering if there are any tips out there on fixing scratches on these really clear ramps. Most of the stuff I could find was about repairing badly broken ones with holes and stuff.

Flame polish makes them like new, but don't do it on the real deal until you practice on some old crappy/broken ramps because if you come in too hard you can ruin a ramp in a hurry.

#4716 1 year ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

I wish I had old ramps to try it out on I'm only a few years into the hobby. I've read about the flame polish. Maybe I'll check around locally and see if anyone has some experience.

It has the best results, but it also can go horribly wrong unless you know what you're doing. Maybe put out a pinside or craigslist wanted ad for some broken pinball ramps or something? No time like the present to learn...

#4727 1 year ago
Quoted from tk375:

I have this problem... Any of you fine gentleman know of any fix for this?
Ramp gets stuck about 15% of the time.

There are two switches underneath that tell the ramp when it's hit home and fully extended. It looks like the fully extended switch is working, but the home switch may be loose or broken and the switch arm not registering all the time. Check and adjust both switches under the playfield.
Ramp_sensor (resized).jpg

#4737 1 year ago
Quoted from tk375:

Thank you so much Sir, I must of moved something when I was checking it out and now it's not getting stuck anymore after 10 games. Thank you!

Great! Now you know where to look if it happens again.

#4750 1 year ago
Quoted from tk375:

I spoke too soon...
I looked at all the connectors and cables and they seemed fine. After lifting the playfield and checking all connections I do the ramp test. Everything works. I have gone as far as testing the ramp 15 times up and down. But after about 6 to 7 games the ramp gets stuck in the middle again.
I see the switches you are talking about. They look good but not sure. Is it possible one is bad? Which one is the "home"? I cannot tell. TIA!
[quoted image][quoted image]

I don't know offhand. Put the game in switch test mode (make sure the coin door interlock switch is pulled out or they won't work) and depress each switch. That will tell you if they work, and also give you the name of which switch is which on the screen.

In your picture the one on the right has a pretty sharp bend in the middle post on the switch. These crappy newer Stern switches are pretty famous for breaking off right at the casing. If that switch at the right doesn't register, or only registers intermittently, I'd look more closely at that.

#4752 1 year ago
Quoted from tk375:

Ok, I will look into that! What's crazy is that after messing under the playfield and moving stuff, this thing lets me play a few good games, then everything goes bad. on the testing the ramp mode. It used to show me "93" failed but it hasn't failed on test. I am calling Stern again tomorrow. Hope they know what it is. Thanks again!

You can probably figure this out just with switch test and wiggling things to narrow down the actual problem.

#4799 1 year ago
Quoted from Kharris:

The Uv sure didn’t help the hate, that’s for sure. But this game has been hated on since it came out the gate. I think it’s gonna be like TWD people hated that game before it was finished now the same haters think it’s one of the best coded games out. Give it time to marinate this game will be a classic.

Let's not get too crazy.

Lyman made TWD great. This will not be TWD. Lonnie has a code ceiling for whatever reason. That said, it will be fine if you're not expecting a Lyman masterpiece.

#4859 1 year ago

Beta testers have been sent coil cooling fan kits. Should be very close to release.

#4861 1 year ago
Quoted from Powerhouse47:

This to help the flippers loss of power over long play?

Yes. The coils getting too hot over time is the root cause of flipper fade. This solves that problem completely.

#4867 1 year ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

What SHOULD happen is Stern should buy your kits and then ship them out to game owners for free.

On most machines the fade is subtle and players don't even realize it's the machine and not them that's the issue. So I'm sure that Stern is like, don't poke the bear, let sleeping dogs lie, admitting there's a problem is a problem, etc. I now doubt they even have collected temperature data in internal design testing while making these.

The TMNT backhand to the left ramp, for example. If I didn't have a gauge on it so I could see the coil temp when I started missing that ramp backhand consistently, I would just think my timing was off, when it's actually the coil is too hot and has weakened. But Stranger Things is especially bad and the fade is very noticible on longer games.

#4868 1 year ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

I fully intend to get your mod when it's released. Now that I've said that, you'll know I mean no ill will with what I say next:
My friend who has been a pinball tech for decades was over my house recently. I was telling him how ridiculous it was that someone had to develop a mod to cool the coils so the game works properly. He laughed and just said why don't you just put on stronger coils, pointing out correctly that it must be a design problem that Stern should make right.
So...has this been discussed before? Would stronger coils knock out a node board or something?

No offense taken. I looked at all solutions before settling on the fans. I even installed the stronger coils on LotR back in the day so I could hit the stupid ring late in the game!

Stronger coils are not a fix to the problem and will break more stuff faster over time. They also may cause airballs. You're increasing the coil strength to account for the fade that will happen when it heats up so the coil strength is enough to make key shots even late in the game when the coil's overheated. But in the beginning of play, the power of the bigger coil is way too strong. This is how targets, plastics, and standups break faster. And since most people play shorter games, the game will have MOST of its time with a coil that's too strong bashing the playfield parts. This is not good.

The fans are the best solution because the correct coil the designer intended at the correct strength is performing the correct way in an optimum temperature range for the length of play, beginning to end. Tell him that.

I also believe, but have no proof yet, that the coils will last longer since you won't have the expanded coil thing happening over time from them being too hot. Watching the fans shave 35 degrees off the overheated coil temps on TMNT while I was still playing it once I turned them on was impressive. It was the first time I tried it that way, and they definitely work.

#4876 1 year ago
Quoted from JDub03:

Anyone having a ball get stuck under/behind the demo resulting in having to tilt the game to get it to release? I am trying to see where it's getting stuck without having to take the demo assembly apart. It gets "stuck" when I shoot the middle shot under the actual demo about 30% of the time now. Haven't had this issue since adding .96 and .97 on the machine. I don't think it's a code issue, but something just needing an adjustment after the amount of plays on the machine.

The gate wire probably partially fell off. Happened to me, too. It only hung up the ball part of the time, depending on the path it took as it went through. It's a known issue at Stern that was supposedly fixed for later runs.

ball-trap (resized).jpg

ball-trap--fixed (resized).jpg

#4936 1 year ago

Just an update on the coil cooling kits. Unless something unexpected happens with reports from the remaining beta testers, I'll be ordering the production wiring harnesses and we should have full kits on sale in a couple weeks. I have an optional adapter that will let you install cooling on 3 and 4 flipper setups, too.

#4938 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Man this game is so so good when the machine is dialed in. Vireland’s fans are the final piece to the puzzle. Just had some really long games and I was making the demo and lock just as easy as when I started with the first few flips.
Can’t wait to see where the code ends up. This thing plays so great now. So glad we were able to figure out all the issues.

Thanks for help testing the fans and the install instructions. I just realized you have earlier brackets, too. I'll send you the final brackets along with the final wiring harness when I get the production units in a few weeks. I added a screen on the back so the fan blade isn't open. There's a guard on the front of the fan itself, but nothing on the back.

Here's the revised design (this is for the right side)...
new_fan_bracket_back_sml (resized).jpg

#4973 1 year ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

Just my opinions...
I wouldn't do that deal. You've probably got over 6k in your pro, right? That's 11k for a game that'll be worth 8k as soon as you open it.
Sell yours for 5ish and add 3 to buy a used LE or a NIB Premium.

FOR SURE. NIB experience ain't worth $3k. Sell yours for $5400, add $2.7-3k, get a nice HUO LE and pocket $2k or more for your next pin.

I'd also take any mods on your Pro that would work on the LE off. They're not going to change the value of the Pro that much and will still be useful to you on the LE since you like them.

#4975 1 year ago

Got the mockup done for the foam block that holds the coil cooling fan kit in the box. Should be cutting foam this time next week. Wiring harnesses are being made now.

packaging_mockup_sml2 (resized).jpg
#5001 1 year ago
Quoted from Powerhouse47:

Any tips/how-tos on installing the LotR coil? Just got it in. I’m also going to get the vireland mod. But want to install the LotR as well

I wouldn't run the heavier LotR coil and the coil cooling kit together because you'll have full overpowered coil strength for the whole game without letup. It will likely break stuff faster. I'd do either/or.

#5007 1 year ago
Quoted from Powerhouse47:

Ahhhh. Well. When would one need to make the choice? I.e. when is cooling kit ready?

It's just a few weeks out. Wiring harnesses are being made, fan brackets are being printed night and day, packaging foam block is (I think) final today after some tweaks and should be cut soon. All the other parts are here.

This *should* be the final foam block design for the packaging. I had to make the parts at the bottom larger because the final wiring harnesses will have 22AWG instead of 24AWG so they're a little more hardy, but that makes them bulkier, too. I also added 12" so there's enough wire length for it to be cleanly tied to the playfield wire trunk for a factory-look install. Both of those changes meant the cutouts from last week would be too small. As long as I was re-doing the foam, I made a face. We'll see if it survives in actual foam...

(Don't pay attention to the different colored fan brackets and low-res of the gray fan bracket, these are just random ones I had on hand to check the fit of the receptacle before I sent it to the foam guy. The final fan brackets are red PETG.)
Foam_Block_2_400x400 (resized).jpg

And here's what the instructions look like:
Cooling-Kit Installation Instructions-900x634-sml. (resized).jpg

#5035 1 year ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

I see lots of people talk about headphone jacks so they can play while people sleep. Isn’t the machine itself too noisy with all the mechanical noise going on? I know I’d get shot if I played at 3am volume or no volume.

They sell kits that can quiet your coil clacking noise down.

#5041 1 year ago
Quoted from dashv:

Looks great! Do any other games need this? Munsters?
How do I get on the list for this?

Pretty sure they all need it to varying degrees, but I need to gather more data to say which need it most critically. Stranger Things and TMNT definitely benefit. Iron Maiden and Star Wars are up for testing soon. I have a new probe system that can collect temps from up to 4 coils at the same time so I can do any spike machine now, where with the Thomas Traceable gauge, I was limited to two coils at a time, with no real-time collection (I had to write the temps down at intervals). My plan is to eventually temp graph ALL Stern Spike2 machine coils, then Spooky, then JJP, then work my way back. Whatever the uncooled coil temps are, one thing that's clear from the beta tests is with the cooling system, the coils stay below the threshold of even the slightest bit of fade for as long as you want to play. Consistent first-flip performance through entire games, one after another. This process has sensitized me acutely to the very beginnings of fade that I can verify by glancing over to a gauge and made me a very picky flipper bitch that won't tolerate even the mildest forms of fade (that usually manifest as barely missed or bricked shots you usually make consistently, but suddenly start missing later in games) now. I can turn you in to one, too!

I'll probably put up orders once I have the foam pricing back. It's the last component I'm waiting for a price on, and when I have that I can set a price for the kit. That way I can get an order queue and get an idea of what I'm looking at. It's a little crazy, because I already have people PMing me to be put down for 2, 3, 5 kits each right off the bat because they want to do all their Spike2 machines. The bottleneck will be the brackets, but I've been printing them for a while to build up a stockpile that hopefully will survive the first rush.

I've been updating this thread and the TMNT one as the project moves toward release, so just keep an eye out here and there for the announcement.

#5074 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Jurassic park is a fantastic game and the only use of the button is to change the smart missile award.
Where’s the video modes in Deadpool, maiden, Jurassic park, or Munsters.
I highly doubt the games rep will get worse due to the center button not having tons of use. Mainly because this game from crucified from day one so it can’t get any worse from that standpoint. Haha.

Just make the center button make various face slap sounds and award minimal points every time "Bullshit" is uttered. Have a discipline champion for most slaps in response to a "bullshit" in the mode (not just spamming the button). It would be hard to juggle that task and keep the ball moving. Could be fun.

#5081 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

One time I put premium GOT code on my pro. Thought I completely broke the game. Thank god it’s no big deal.

I don't know why they don't have a pre-check for what machine you're trying to install a rom on. They can just check for node boards specific to Premiums/LE and tell you if you are trying the wrong one.

Oh wait...Lonnie does the low-level system stuff. Nevermind. Answered my own question.

#5106 1 year ago
Quoted from tk375:

What number is this post for the tk lock? I cannot find it.

Click on "Topic Index" at the top of the page. It's listed there and you can click straight to it.

#5124 1 year ago
Quoted from taz:

Does anyone know what we get for that?

A baby's arm holding an apple.

#5139 1 year ago
Quoted from fuzz:

The latest on my weak right flipper issue.
The right flipper is getting stuck in the up position and stays that way unless the left flipper button is pressed.
Im assuming these 2 symptoms are connected?

And you have vertical play in the right flipper if you pull up on it?

Sounds like the flipper is too tight to the bushing or the coil stop is broken.

#5180 1 year ago

Wiring harnesses arrived today for the coil cooling kit. Still waiting on foam. Once I have that, these are good to go. I'll have 2, 3, and 4 flipper coil-cooling kits at launch. The only difference between the 2 coil kit and the 3/4 coil kits is more fans, more zip-ties, and a custom inline clip-in splitter for the power lead.

#5217 1 year ago
Quoted from unwallflower:

I keep getting balls stuck somewhere up under the demogorgon... they get under there and then even when it goes through the lost ball thing it never manages to shake the ball loose. Any tips for where to start in troubleshooting this?

Your one way gate came off. Stern made a running change to these. Early ones have a wire that's too short or not crimped enough and it comes off, blocking the ball travel sometimes. The wire flops around, so sometimes it seems worse than others.

Gate has come off...
ball-trap (resized).jpg

Gate fixed.
ball-trap--fixed (resized).jpg

1 week later
#5266 1 year ago

Coil cooling kit update - I have all the manufactured parts and illustrated instructions ready to go, but the foam insert that holds everything in place during shipping had to be sent back because it was cut wrong. So probably looking at another 7-10 days before the foam is fixed and I receive it to start shipping the Spike2 coil cooling kits. Sorry!
bad-foam-sample (resized).png

#5269 1 year ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

can we preorder anywhere?

No, sorry. The upside is the additional time has allowed me to continue building stock of the brackets, which are the printed part and the slow bit. Everything else is manufactured already.

Once all the cut foam is on the way and I know it's only a few days out before shipping, I'll put it in the store here and at pinmonk.com.

#5274 1 year ago
Quoted from Kharris:

I’ve been following this and am wondering if this is needed on the pro model as I dont have the diverter on the left ramp?

Yes. It makes the flippers perform correctly the full length of playtime, as long as you want to play, instead of heating up (quickly on STh) and causing bricked, low power, or missed shots. I used a pro for development of the coil cooling kit. It was an obvious improvement I could feel, especially on long games.

#5276 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Improved my accuracy on the demo too. I would start games nailing it then would lose the shot later in the game. Not no mo.

Making a bullet point list of benefits now...

#5281 1 year ago
Quoted from Flash71:

What is the pricepoint on these? I’m def interested.

Should be like $89 for a two flipper kit with all the hardware and connectors. There will be 3 and 4 flipper kits, but honestly, I don't know how necessary cooling would be on 3rd and 4th flippers, but I'll know more once I put some probes on them and test the real-time temps. Only done 2 flippers on TMNT so far.

#5286 1 year ago
Quoted from Kharris:

Where do the fans get power from? I have several mods and what to make sure I have a spot to plug them in.

Ticket dispenser connector. I was pretty sure no one (or almost no one) was using that and it supplies more than an amp of power, which is way more than even 4 of these fans pull (in a 4 flipper setup). I put a rectifier diode and a 1a fuse on the line though, just in case, to protect the node board. It's a clean install.

#5289 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

Any idea if this ticket dispenser connector gets put on games destined for Europe by the way?

It's a standard header block on their coin door interface board, so I'm sure it's there. Just no one uses a ticket dispenser for home use.

This is the illustration from stern's spike2 manuals. CN11 is the connector in the upper left.

panell0 (resized).jpg
#5310 1 year ago

Revised foam sample for the flipper coil cooling kit packaging came in and it's good to go so I've ordered the production for them. We're about 7-10 days out on receiving all the cut foam and then I can ship. I'll probably put it in the pinmonk store and at pinmonk.com mid-late next week in anticipation of the foam's arrival.

Here's a shot of the box as it will be packed. The 8 zip ties aren't visible, and the instructions aren't there because they go on top and would obscure the box contents, but this is basically what it will look like when you get it. The finger cutouts are there for double-stacked 3 and 4 flipper kits so you can get to the layer below. 2 flipper kits are single layer but use the same foam.

Wire in the middle compartment is the interface cable with the connector for the ticket header plus the inline 1A fuse and rectifier diode. Bottom compartment is the 7.5' cable which leaves plenty to get from the board along the cabinet to the playfield wire trunk and up to the flippers.

This all started with Stranger Things, but it seems to help with any Spike 2 machine on extended playtimes (30-45 mins and up) where the coils get too warm and performance degrades, subtly at first, but then very obviously.


1 week later
#5361 1 year ago

Okay, foam's finally cut and on the way, so I've gone ahead and put the coil cooling kits in the pinmonk store here on pinside.


Cooling-Kit-1_600x (resized).jpg

They'll be on pinmonk.com for international orders next week.

#5363 1 year ago
Quoted from Powerhouse47:

Just placed my order!

Awesome, thanks for the support. This should help a lot of Stranger Things owners specifically with some pretty extreme flipper fade on longer games, but also helps TMNT and Iron Maiden and I'm sure other Spike2 I haven't tested yet.

#5370 1 year ago
Quoted from Wallofnoise:

Was Stranger Things a low home use seller? Just anecdotally I know it’s a popular pin on location. How do you all get pin sales numbers?

I don't think anyone has hard numbers, just anecdotal "selling better/worse than xxxx" by talking to distributors, etc.

#5385 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Haha. Thanks for watching! Glad I was able to present the game to show how cool it is. The projector is still washed out a bit on the stream but the rest was represented pretty well imo.

Has anyone found a micro projector with more lumens that can replace the (undoubtedly dirt cheap) stock one Stern uses? Washed out projection seems like a solvable problem. I don't have access to a Prem/LE or I'd already be on this.

#5392 1 year ago
Quoted from FredZZZ:

Here is an easier solution :
Daylight 1.1 gen2
(Format A4 = 80$)
Best regards

I'm assuming that upgrade has been done for people wanting the best quality from the stock projector. I was talking about that PLUS more lumens to really plus-up the playfield displays.

#5398 1 year ago
Quoted from Mike_J:

I feel the same.
If any of you guys hear about a more powerful projector, please let us know about it.

If no one else does it, now that the coil fade issue is solved, I'll keep an eye out for a good deal on a Premium I can bring back in for a few months to work on for a while to find a better projection solution. I'm positive one is out there, it's just a matter of finding it.

#5411 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

Thanks for that, I was also thinking it was a bit too fast... so I'd definitely prefer the slower and on all the time version, which seems to match better the actual sign of the arcade in the series...

You can likely also stick a resistor on it to slow the rotation.

#5451 1 year ago

Thanks for the compliments on the flipper cooling kit. I'd write more but i'm on my phone because Spectrum's down AGAIN.

I'm still shipping out the backlog of orders for it but should be caught up by the weekend.

#5459 1 year ago
Quoted from Powerhouse47:

Got mine! Super fast. Thank you!!!

USPS is a crapshoot these days (the "we're awesome and reliable" commercials they started running crack me up because they don't match the reality), so glad to hear some of the longer-travel shipments are arriving in the normal shipping times.

#5462 1 year ago
Quoted from dashv:

Did I sign up for this? If I did sign up was it for one or two?

I didn't have a waiting list, just put them up to buy in the pinmonk store here:

and also pinmonk.com here:

At the current rate, the first batch will probably be sold out sometime between tomorrow and Monday, but I'm only constrained by a couple parts (I have plenty of harnesses, foam, fans, boxes, etc), and they're already on the way, so I should have more sets late next week. I plan on making these for a long time, so everyone that wants them will be able to get them.

The Spooky harness adapter is in the works next. I have it made, so it just needs to be tested and then flipper coil cooling kits for Spooky machines will be ready to go as well.

#5464 1 year ago
Quoted from dashv:

Ordered 1 for this and 1 for Munsters.

Got the order, thanks. Haven't installed one on Munsters yet. Let me know how it goes. I don't forsee any problems with any of the Spike 2 installations once I raised the fans up and angled them down so they're out of the way of whatever nonsense Stern decided to pack in, around, and under the flipper plates below.

#5483 1 year ago
Quoted from tk375:

Who needs a stinking topper when you can buy a f-ing Demogorgon?
[quoted image]

That would not be safe in my house. I'd be cutting it up and modding it so the face opened and closed with the game. Probably light the mouth and make it growl, too. Who says toppers need to be on top? A synced full size demogorgon next to the machine would be very cool.

#5485 1 year ago
Quoted from tk375:

Right? I thought about lights, but not making it move! That would be rad!

You could probably also trigger the events wirelessly with bluetooth and a couple mini raspberry pi setups.

#5493 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Expect the lockbar button to do nothing but start games and plunge balls.

Brian said they're looking at ideas for the lockdown button and he wants to integrate it. I still like slapping people for each bullshit uttered, but he said that probably won't fly with the licensor.

#5495 1 year ago