So do their spinner decals!

So to provide closure on this the problem there was a mistake on one of the connectors going to the rectifier board. Went back over all the wiring and found a blue wire for the controlled lamps was off by 1 pin and in the one for the GI as some suspected. Consider this resolved.

This is pretty cool. Has this been done before?

I bought some from Phoenix Arcade. They make high quality products. This is the only place I've found foil start button stickers too.

https://www.phoenixarcade.com/search/node/Stern

Wow. When did k's arcade close?

Thanks for the link, I'm going to order a few of both.

Strange that it seemed to work right with only one bulb in. Thanks for reporting back, putting that it my strange shit to remember bank

Thanks! Ordered a couple of both.

Can someone post a couple quick pics of the lower inside of the backbox, preferably a Seawitch? Reassembling and don't seem to have any pics. Just wanna make sure i wire the ground into everything that needs it. Think it should be self explanatory but, ya know, measure twice cut onse.

Edit: NM, found one.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12A-143

This is not the correct decal for Seawitch but this is your only option. The correct decal for Seawitch does not have the blue border line around the perimeter.

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Last November. There’s a post on their Facebook page.

I don't know if anyone else has worked to convert a high sidewall DE cab for a Stern play field before. As I look at and start to study this cab I can see it is not going to be a slam dunk. It is doable, but it will be some work.

Boooooo

I've always wanted to put 80s William's games in bally/stern cabs bc I like the lip on the backbox, looks better visually.

Marco has the correct one

A lip can be made for any back box. Some 1/2" thick pine works like a charm.

What’s everyone using for replacement legs? Pinball life ballys?

Okay so I’m a little confused about the credit button Sticker

Where they all Foil type from the factory when new , or was there two types from factory

I think there was more than one type.

This is as close as you are going to get.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-non-ribbed-raw-legs-set-of-4.html

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I've only seen the foil type. All my games have had foil or no sticker.

I have never had a classic stern that still had (at least remnants of) the original credit button sticker that wasn’t foil. Very often they’re worn off from people touching them thousands of times though.

There are 2 different logo decals for the center, however.

Just got 2 more sterns last week IM need a lot of adjustments. Is there stronger pop coils for Dragonfist?

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The manual calls out J-26-1200 coils. I think this is about of strong of pop coil Stern used.

A pinside friend taught me about removing wire from the coils to jazz them up a bit. You could do what I did with my Catacomb with the same 1200 coils to spice things up. Remove 100 wraps of wire from the coil. Or buy some J26-1000 coils from Steve at Pinball Resourse.

Dragonfist slingshots also calls for J-26-1500 coils. Take your J-26-1200 pop coils and move those to your slingshots and put some 1100s on the pops.

That should make it mean and nasty.

I will try removing 100 windings from the coils .

(Finally) Here is a link to the 2 part jig that you can print yourself to then fit around a new pop bumper bracket and put in a lathe and machine down the ring diameter by a few millimetres.

This link is to my shapeways page but if you sign up (no catches) / sign in a DOWNLOAD button will appear.

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=swinkspopjig

Please let me know how you go and take care.

Jady

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You're awesome Jady, thanks for all you do!

just trying to help you guys with a cheaper alternative to the retro brackets I made available

Here is another mod / bracket which I am helping a Homebrew guy with so he can add sounds to his game but these trigger finger brackets.

Basically they are placed over a New Stern or Pinball Life Roll over switch and then it triggers a second switch that can then trigger the Wav Trigger Board - took a bit to find the sweet spot so it wouldn't stop the ball but still trigger the second switch.

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinkstriggerfinger&sort=newest

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You can get a Stern video game coin door. They are painted black so you would need to strip the black off. And also there is no hole for the credit button so you have to drill the two holes for that ( not a big job, very doable). You would also need to drill and tap the two small holes for the credit button switches.

This door with the 3 trim strips is available. If interested, send me a PM and I help you and the seller get connected so you can make a deal.

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I have a complete Stern Meteor Coin Door for sale.

i bought a game with an Alltek SDB and Q16 is bad, the transistors on the board are FQB33N10L can i somehow replace them with a standard TIP122?

The switch screw holes are still present. Everything is identical except the credit button hole, which is easy to drill but I wouldn’t know how to press the metal inward like the pin doors have so you don’t slice a finger on the metal.

Thanks for clearing that up , now to find out what classic Sterns has them fitted & which games did not

Excellent thank you for information , think I have some foil type in my stash

As for the centre logo stickers ,have to work out which ones go on what era of games

Cheers

Getting the metal pressed inward is not a possibility since this is an assembled door. It would take the male and female metal die set and an arbor press. The best you can do with the door assembled is to run a Dremel Tool rock grinding bit around the edges to soften them up so you don't cut your finger.

Drilling the credit button hole requires you to drill a pilot hole in the two pieces of metal for good alignment. Then drill the large hole for the button followed by drilling a smaller hole for the credit button shaft.

The center logo stickers with out the blue boarder go on the earlier classic Sterns. Big Game decal has no border.

Catacomb and Dragonfist have the decal with the blue border.

However, I don't know at which machine Stern made the switch.

Where can I find the coil or magnet? It opens a gate. On Iron Maiden.

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This pic is of the lane dividers on my Quicksilver build. The lights under the lane dividers are wired up like feature lights, but they just stay on like GI lights.

The yellow insert lights all work properly. What are these lane divider lights supposed to do?

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Pinball Resource has several part numbers that are close.

https://www.pbresource.com/coilccm.html

Get your part numbers ready. Then call Steve at PBR.

I picked up some G-31-2000's recently from Marco's.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/G-31-2000
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/G-31-1800

When the shot for extra ball is lit (with the yellow light) the lane dividers flash for that letter.

A pretty unique feature that I haven’t experienced on other games.

And they also give you a nice light show when you max out the bonus.

Thank you. This pin tells me I am a novice I have not got that far yet.

Lower left flipper died on my seawitch while I was playing earlier. Cab switch started off by sticking -- magnetized? It was weird -- to start. Replaced that, then the flipper died altogether. Wiring/soldering looks atrocious. Guess it's time to rebuild and see where I go from there.

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Just the outer metal requires drilling. The interior is the same (hence the switch screw holes still being present), so the placement is easy to locate. Have to ask, do you have one of these or are you speculating?

I would fuse those two relay/gate magnets...
They constantly burn-up on IM.
May need to change the solenoid/voltage regulator board...
I had the same problem on Stern Freefall.
The CA3081 ic was flaking out.

I presume it's bigger than a Stern cab in general?

You mean the flipper button itself was sticking closed (flipper activated)? And now you can't activae the flipper at all? Guessing your problem isn't with the flipper mech itself, though possible you fried the driver transistor for it. Coil doesn't look burnt. Check the diodes too - blowing one wouldn't stop the flipper from working, but could fry the driver transistor, which would kill the flipper. Although, I think when the transistor fails it'll lock the flipper on until it loses juice, so maybe that's why you thought the button was sticking.

If the transistor is good, I'd start back at the leaf switch for the flipper button and work forward from there.

That's not the correct flipper pawl, though it should play pretty much the same. Good indicator it's been on there long enough to warrant a rebuild though.