Ali
Stern Electronics, 1980
Big Game
Stern Electronics, 1980
Catacomb
Stern Electronics, 1981
Cheetah
Stern Electronics, 1980
Cosmic Princess
Stern Electronics, 1979
Dracula
Stern Electronics, 1979
Dragonfist
Stern Electronics, 1981
Flight 2000
Stern Electronics, 1980Quoted from play_pinball:Just the outer metal requires drilling. The interior is the same (hence the switch screw holes still being present), so the placement is easy to locate. Have to ask, do you have one of these or are you speculating?
I have two of them. But it has been a year since I looked at them. My memory failed me, so I guess I was speculating 
Only one hole to drill. Makes the conversion much easier.
Quoted from Ollulanus:I presume it's bigger than a Stern cab in general?
No. The DE cab is a standard size 51 1/2"-52" long and 22" wide. It just higher side walls which raises the play field glass up and away from the play field. There will a big hole between the play field and the glass I need to figure out how to fill. I am getting some ideas by looking at my Robocop; I'll need to build a back board of some sort.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Lower left flipper died on my seawitch while I was playing earlier. Cab switch started off by sticking -- magnetized? It was weird -- to start. Replaced that, then the flipper died altogether. Wiring/soldering looks atrocious. Guess it's time to rebuild and see where I go from there.
[quoted image]
Get some new plungers and throw that worn out piece of phenolic away
https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-stern-plunger-link-assembly.html
Quoted from Ollulanus:I presume it's bigger than a Stern cab in general?
You mean the flipper button itself was sticking closed (flipper activated)? And now you can't activae the flipper at all? Guessing your problem isn't with the flipper mech itself, though possible you fried the driver transistor for it. Coil doesn't look burnt. Check the diodes too - blowing one wouldn't stop the flipper from working, but could fry the driver transistor, which would kill the flipper. Although, I think when the transistor fails it'll lock the flipper on until it loses juice, so maybe that's why you thought the button was sticking.
If the transistor is good, I'd start back at the leaf switch for the flipper button and work forward from there.
That's not the correct flipper pawl, though it should play pretty much the same. Good indicator it's been on there long enough to warrant a rebuild though.
I turned it off pretty quick to pull glass and observe behavior. The leafs on the cab switch locked together somehow-- but not due to being physically forced that way. It was strange. The lower left flipper was missing, then sticking. I replaced the cab switch and now it's dead altogether. But I didn't leave it stuck long. I'm picking up 4 repaired SDBs today so if something happened there I'll swap one over.
Quoted from cottonm4:Get some new plungers and throw that worn out piece of phenolic away
https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-stern-plunger-link-assembly.html
[quoted image]
I buy these in bulk from pbl. I hadn't rebuilt the lower witch flippers because they had been working well (I did rebuild uppers when I installed new -600 coils). I think this was just my comeuppance from saying I thought my witch played better than yours 
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:The leafs on the cab switch locked together somehow-- but not due to being physically forced that way.
The contacts can weld themselves together with the arcing. This happens when the contacts are really closely meshing so a simple filing of a slight crown in each can prevent this. Also spark suppression caps on the flipper button switches can help too, these were not standard on domestic models but German games seems to have required them (at least for 6803 era bally games, you can use the same spec cap for those on your seawitch ones)
Quoted from hisokajp:i bought a game with an Alltek SDB and Q16 is bad, the transistors on the board are FQB33N10L can i somehow replace them with a standard TIP122?
So no one ran into this? I mean i can try to put a tip122 in ther, there is no middle leg being used but i assume i can solder it to the top tab?
Quoted from hisokajp:So no one ran into this? I mean i can try to put a tip122 in ther, there is no middle leg being used but i assume i can solder it to the top tab?
I have had to send in an Alltek board for repair. Here is how Alltek works: You call and get a return authorization. You pay the shipping and you will also include prepaid return shipping.
If Alltek can fix it, it will be fixed and returned. If Alltek cannot fix it, then you can buy a new replacement for $50.00 ( It used to be $50.00 a couple of years ago, anyway). That is the lifetime guarantee.
With shipping rates going up plus the $50.00, it might be better to buy new.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
I suggest calling Alltek and asking them what you can use for a replacement. It is no skin off of Alltek's nose either way.
I think the owner's name is Dave but my memory is fuzzy.
Get a Weebly board. Better construction, better opportunity to replace components, and, IMHO, better community involvement - like with the Arduino/Meteor MPU upgrade work.
Quoted from vec-tor:I would fuse those two relay/gate magnets...
They constantly burn-up on IM.
May need to change the solenoid/voltage regulator board...
I had the same problem on Stern Freefall.
The CA3081 ic was flaking out.
Ok so this is my problem. I replaced one of the gate coils last week. Now the other coil is out. It was blowing the fuse under the playfield by flippers. With one gate working there is no problem. Both gates working it blows fuse. Some times it works with out blowing fuse. Both gates run off the same relay. Both open and close at the same time. The wires are ran together to both coils. What is a CA3081 ? I replaced rectifier board, I replaced MPU and solenoid boards with altek already.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:I turned it off pretty quick to pull glass and observe behavior. The leafs on the cab switch locked together somehow-- but not due to being physically forced that way. It was strange. The lower left flipper was missing, then sticking. I replaced the cab switch and now it's dead altogether. But I didn't leave it stuck long. I'm picking up 4 repaired SDBs today so if something happened there I'll swap one over.
I buy these in bulk from pbl. I hadn't rebuilt the lower witch flippers because they had been working well (I did rebuild uppers when I installed new -600 coils). I think this was just my comeuppance from saying I thought my witch played better than yours
Funny, I had that same old plunger in the lower right on mine I just restored. Thought it played fine, just a little weak. Turns out the plunger easy the problem - the whole mech was being held on by a single screw! Still played ok for a couple months until I got to swapping it ...I can get it around the orbit a lot easier now off the right though!
Quoted from tatman9999:What is a CA3081
Google that part number. It is some sort of dip emitter
It brings you to Marco. The shipping will be more than the part.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CA3081
Quoted from tatman9999:Some times it works with out blowing fuse.
Any chance you have a loose wire making intermittent contact with something else to create a short?
Quoted from cottonm4:No. The DE cab is a standard size 51 1/2"-52" long and 22" wide. It just higher side walls which raises the play field glass up and away from the play field. There will a big hole between the play field and the glass I need to figure out how to fill. I am getting some ideas by looking at my Robocop; I'll need to build a back board of some sort.
I feel like you could have some fun with that space...put a screen in there with waves crashing video for seawitch, or night sky video for star gazer
Quoted from cottonm4:Google that part number. It is some sort of dip emitter
It brings you to Marco. The shipping will be more than the part.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CA3081Any chance you have a loose wire making intermittent contact with something else to create a short?
I checked all the wires . Don’t see anything touching. Not sure where that chip would be. Maybe the relay that runs both gates?relay is top right of pic.
3C6B7862-4CB6-4D4E-B4ED-FE0A61F19949 (resized).png
Quoted from Ollulanus:I feel like you could have some fun with that space...put a screen in there with waves crashing video for seawitch, or night sky video for star gazer
Interesting idea. Please send me the R & D funds and I will go to work
But I have thought of copying the Star Gazer text from the back glass to go across behind the play field.
Quoted from tatman9999:I checked all the wires . Don’t see anything touching. Not sure where that chip would be. Maybe the relay that runs both gates?relay is top right of pic.
[quoted image]
I went looking for the chip because you posted the part number. I know nothing about it. Nothing at all. Where did you get that part number?
Several questions:
1) I assume this was sold as a working machine. Correct?
2) Did you by chance get a copy of the owner's manual to go with it? I ask because what is available on IPDB.org. is trash. Nothing is readable.
You might call Steve at PBR and see if he can make you a copy. For me, it is a safe bet that you are going to need that manual.
Actually, I took a look at Marco and Marco has copies of Iron Maiden manual to sell.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/DOC1327
If you buy the manual hopefully you have a printer/scanner combo and you could scan and post the switch matrix and coil matrix pages.
Quoted from cottonm4:I have had to send in an Alltek board for repair. Here is how Alltek works: You call and get a return authorization. You pay the shipping and you will also include prepaid return shipping.
If Alltek can fix it, it will be fixed and returned. If Alltek cannot fix it, then you can buy a new replacement for $50.00 ( It used to be $50.00 a couple of years ago, anyway). That is the lifetime guarantee.
With shipping rates going up plus the $50.00, it might be better to buy new.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
I suggest calling Alltek and asking them what you can use for a replacement. It is no skin off of Alltek's nose either way.
I think the owner's name is Dave but my memory is fuzzy.
Gotcha, ill try that avenue
Quoted from Coyote:Get a Weebly board. Better construction, better opportunity to replace components, and, IMHO, better community involvement - like with the Arduino/Meteor MPU upgrade work.
I do, that one came from a game i bought not long back
I have the original manual in English and German . When I got the game one gate coil was missing. I replaced the coil with a new one that came with the game. I worked about 10 games and then the other coil went out. Few times the fuse under playfield blew. I believe the coil was missing because the guy I bought it from was having same problem and just did not install it. It works fine with one gate hooked up. It as soon as you hook both up is when it has the problem. I would think both gate coils at the same time is drawing to much power.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
45677DAB-434E-4AAA-B72D-61CA39E5E648 (resized).jpegthe right outlane switch doesnt work on our Maiden here, havnt looked into it yet bc no manual. pretty sure both gates work tho. I can snap a pic tomorrow if that helps at all tatman9999
Quoted from GoldenOreos:the right outlane switch doesnt work on our Maiden here, havnt looked into it yet bc no manual. pretty sure both gates work tho. I can snap a pic tomorrow if that helps at all tatman9999
That would be helpful. Maybe how the wires are hooked up at gates and relay. I have manual if you need any pics of it.
Quoted from Ollulanus:I presume it's bigger than a Stern cab in general?
You mean the flipper button itself was sticking closed (flipper activated)? And now you can't activae the flipper at all? Guessing your problem isn't with the flipper mech itself, though possible you fried the driver transistor for it. Coil doesn't look burnt. Check the diodes too - blowing one wouldn't stop the flipper from working, but could fry the driver transistor, which would kill the flipper. Although, I think when the transistor fails it'll lock the flipper on until it loses juice, so maybe that's why you thought the button was sticking.
If the transistor is good, I'd start back at the leaf switch for the flipper button and work forward from there.
That's not the correct flipper pawl, though it should play pretty much the same. Good indicator it's been on there long enough to warrant a rebuild though.
Early Stern flippers don't have driver transistors. There is a driver transistor for the flipper relay, which is constantly on during normal gameplay (i.e. not tilted). The energized relay creates the path to ground so the flipper circuit is isolated from the driver transistor.
The sticking flipper button could be a couple of things.
It could be a dirty flipper button/housing. Years of players' dead skin cells and grimy fingertips gum up the buttons so they don't move freely.
It could also be that the backing plate has come loose, allowing the button to extend too far into the cabinet opening. It can push in at an angle and become lodged in the hole.
It sounds like the flipper not working after you replaced the switch is due to the new switch contacts. File them a little bit to scuff them up and they should work.
Quoted from Coyote:Get a Weebly board. Better construction, better opportunity to replace components, and, IMHO, better community involvement - like with the Arduino/Meteor MPU upgrade work.
Also Weebly is $167 delivered vs. Alltek at about $215 plus s&h.
Quoted from bluespin:Also Weebly is $167 delivered vs. Alltek at about $215 plus s&h.
Yeah, hard to argue the two when you compare prices. My next purchases will be weebly.
Quoted from tatman9999:What is a CA3081 ?
A CA3081 is a transistor array chip. Basically it has seven transistors in the one chip and that's it.
Quoted from tatman9999:Not sure where that chip would be.
CA3081 are on the solenoid driver boards (there's three in total). Curious why you are mentioning this chip?
I can't quite tell from your pictures but are the gate coil lugs touching the metal frame?
With the machine OFF, how much resistance do you measure across both coils with your multi-meter?
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Yeah, hard to argue the two when you compare prices. My next purchases will be weebly.
I just got a weebly mpu from andrew and put it in my flash gordon. Instantly solved problems with boot up, no memory (credits, sound setting memory), random in-ball switching between feature sounds/chimes, background sounds etc. Funny thing is I tried an alltek board in FG and it introduced a whole new set of problems. I have used LOTS of Alltek MPU's, LDB's and SDB's too. I am also proficient at troubleshooting connector issues. It simply didn't work in this game. Works fine in my sterns. Plus the weebly has many more setup options. It's a no brainer even if it was the same price. Andrew is THE MAN.
Quoted from dothedoo:Early Stern flippers don't have driver transistors. There is a driver transistor for the flipper relay, which is constantly on during normal gameplay (i.e. not tilted). The energized relay creates the path to ground so the flipper circuit is isolated from the driver transistor.
The sticking flipper button could be a couple of things.
It could be a dirty flipper button/housing. Years of players' dead skin cells and grimy fingertips gum up the buttons so they don't move freely.
It could also be that the backing plate has come loose, allowing the button to extend too far into the cabinet opening. It can push in at an angle and become lodged in the hole.
It sounds like the flipper not working after you replaced the switch is due to the new switch contacts. File them a little bit to scuff them up and they should work.
New cab switch, new -500 coils, stops, plungers, springs, and EOS switch. Back to kicking ass. Also replaced a bunch of awful, junk screws and nuts.
Ignore the splice connection, I just wanted to try it out. That will be soldered properly, soon.
IMG_20230418_124122 (resized).jpgIMG_20230418_124123 (resized).jpg20230418_124128 (resized).jpg20230418_142719 (resized).jpg20230418_143008 (resized).jpgQuoted from Quench:CA3081 are on the solenoid driver boards (there's three in total). Curious why you are mentioning this chip?
To all Bally/Stern classic system and Bally 6803 system owners. The CA3081 transistor arrays
are getting old and a phenomena is happening where solenoid coils are "cooking" even tho
the coils are "not active". e.g. game is in attract mode. I have had to deal with sets of coils
cooked that have blown the SE9302's/TIP102 transistors... The coils are melted in de-active
positions. Sets of coils go bad with one thing in common, all are associated with one of the three
CA3081 ic on the power regulator solenoid board.
Today, people are switching to new replacement boards. However, if the solenoid windings
are damaged, continued problems could persist.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:New cab switch, new -500 coils, stops, plungers, springs, and EOS switch. Back to kicking ass. Also replaced a bunch of awful, junk screws and nuts.
Ignore the splice connection, I just wanted to try it out. That will be soldered properly, soon.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Bring that flipper base bracket down and we can fix it right, so you don't have to remove the entire assembly.
Quoted from tatman9999:I have the original manual in English and German . When I got the game one gate coil was missing. I replaced the coil with a new one that came with the game. I worked about 10 games and then the other coil went out. Few times the fuse under playfield blew. I believe the coil was missing because the guy I bought it from was having same problem and just did not install it. It works fine with one gate hooked up. It as soon as you hook both up is when it has the problem. I would think both gate coils at the same time is drawing to much power.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]
I am looking at your pics and your drawing.
In the pic it looks like both of those small coils are wired to an Orange/black wire. I do not know if wiring two coils up in series is something that can be done without causing problems. But you say each coil, by itself, works and you only have problems when both are wired up.
Screen Shot 2023-04-18 at 8.25.44 PM (resized).jpg
In drawing, it looks like there is only one solenoid coil wired to an O/B wire. Since by now, everyone seems to know that Stern's drawings have some problems, I don't totally know what to look for.
Screen Shot 2023-04-18 at 8.30.38 PM (resized).jpg
I don't know this pin. I don't know the drawing. Are these coils activated by switches? i assume that there are. Can you figure out what switch or what switches activate the coils?
Do you see any coil wires from the SDU that are going to nowhere?
I am going to suggest you physically trace and touch every col wire and match them to the drawing. If you have a printer/ copy machine, make some copies so you can mark them up.
Quoted from cottonm4:I do not know if wiring two coils up in series is something that can be done without causing problems. But you say each coil, by itself, works and you only have problems when both are wired up.
I would isolate the two coils by having one High voltage contact relay
handle the activation.. Then, only one SDU transistor drive the physical
relay to drive the two gates.
Basically, add a snubber relay assembly.
Quoted from tatman9999:There is a switch the actives the gate and a coil. The coil shoots the ball up to upper playfield and then into the lock hole. There is 2 switches and 2 coils and 2 more coils for gates. Here is a top pic.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
It would maybe be helpful to see more pics of the underside. Where are the switches for these 2 coils? Can you show pics? A pic of complete relay might help.
Can you back away from the play field and get pics that show more?
More pics
233DFF1D-FE24-4090-9DC8-086CFA2169C9 (resized).jpeg30F727CB-FAD9-41AE-A294-EC8C0A6CAECF (resized).jpeg47A09EDD-BD80-4DE9-B2C5-FF7A0C79438E (resized).jpeg52F896B4-7F5C-4EE1-B403-D11F6A191C15 (resized).jpeg851BAF63-7884-4FF1-846B-8A9AF0507842 (resized).jpeg8C80A964-F0A5-444C-BCEE-C7CB6AA2B9D3 (resized).jpeg982095EA-24A6-4591-8CCC-B12FB941FB30 (resized).jpegD45FCA36-3DF0-49BC-8158-D9E71F0821F8 (resized).jpegDD3894D5-313B-4DEA-B673-0273EE7D1BBF (resized).jpegE091E7A1-BEDD-4315-AB35-03D670B7E45B (resized).jpegEF5F74EE-8EEB-4B47-AB18-8141892509D2 (resized).jpegF22A1C6F-3E17-49A4-B777-BDDE58342AAC (resized).jpegF74FBB7B-40E2-4FC0-8FB4-EF6AB5F9DF19 (resized).jpegPics
082790FC-7488-4890-AEF9-6358B209DB19 (resized).jpeg1012776E-FF0B-4B0E-8128-9570864255FE (resized).jpeg44D032EB-D70F-4560-ADF1-9297030D1242 (resized).jpeg4EBD74BA-F426-4B81-A061-EA2C8D65B328 (resized).jpeg53EE3FE5-AD6D-4154-978F-05424E31DB89 (resized).jpeg60CDB266-6739-462C-8FF9-D1B1CE59E6FF (resized).jpeg617148C8-3CA2-458E-93F4-F1E2E8E87447 (resized).jpeg64A6DDC9-691A-4DB9-B162-80ABBDA30F92 (resized).jpeg76584149-06AD-4287-AA36-61444BF037B9 (resized).jpeg95A80E3C-1A81-403C-AA98-2535502F14A1 (resized).jpeg97940B74-46C9-45C6-9618-078923B3B356 (resized).jpegB2013A5D-9FF4-4F84-8E07-0A067EF0F688 (resized).jpegB2D22CA9-3C49-46CA-A6F5-28B23F4BB24A (resized).jpegB7B3E2D0-AA4F-4AA9-B38C-F014945E8596 (resized).jpegCool story here with how Keith Elwin was inspired by several Classic Stern titles to come up with his design for Bond 60th.
Bond 60th plays like a Classic Stern while Pulp Fiction plays like a Classic Bally. Great seeing old school influences in newer games.
We talk with Keith about his very early years and how he got started with pinball as a youth playing and fixing pinball and arcade games as well as all the 70's and 80's classic titles he played as well as the very early pinball tournaments prior to pinball tournaments being a thing around the time when Twilight Zone first came out:
The Classic Pinball Podcast #102 Keith Elwin
Downloadable here:
http://pinballdoctor.com/the-classic-pinball-podcast/
https://podbay.fm/podcast/1469743456
Accessible to stream via any of the links below:
https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-classic-pinball-podcast/id1469743456
https://www.breaker.audio/the-classic-pinball-podcast
https://open.spotify.com/show/6JGvAzDFwCSJUwwWgBMCDd
https://radiopublic.com/the-classic-pinball-podcast-WR95kj
https://overcast.fm/itunes1469743456/the-classic-pinball-podcast
Enjoy!
Quoted from tatman9999:Pics
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thank you.
Where are those 2 small coils on this drawing? Which ones are they? Are they for the top and bottom gates?
Pinside_forum_7536914_13 (resized).jpg
Those 2 coils look like they are only held in with 2 screws. Can you remove one or both so we can see the other side? How are they activated? Is there a wire trigger the ball rolls over?
when u short plunge those upper inlanes it's supposed to activate the diverter gates in order for the ball to not go to upper playfield, but to the ball lock area. I'll be back at the arcade on friday so I can get into ours and get better pics of that relay.
we just got maiden like a few weeks ago so I'm still trying to learn how this game works. other than the right outlane being dead here, the game will randomly reset and I havnt been able to manually recreate that so I'm clueless on that issue. definitely a unique game though, I like it so far.
Quoted from GoldenOreos:when u short plunge those upper inlanes it's supposed to activate the diverter gates in order for the ball to not go to upper playfield, but to the ball lock area. I'll be back at the arcade on friday so I can get into ours and get better pics of that relay.
we just got maiden like a few weeks ago so I'm still trying to learn how this game works. other than the right outlane being dead here, the game will randomly reset and I havnt been able to manually recreate that so I'm clueless on that issue. definitely a unique game though, I like it so far.
Can you get pics of these two coils to show how they are wired? It looks like the O/BLK wire is feeding from that relay and then goes to both of those coils.
Quoted from vec-tor:To all Bally/Stern classic system and Bally 6803 system owners. The CA3081 transistor arrays
are getting old and a phenomena is happening where solenoid coils are "cooking" even tho
the coils are "not active".
The CA3081 failure is a base pin goes open circuit (measuring over 4.0V instead of 0.8V) and this condition causes the driver transistor downstream to turn on hard locking the respective coil.
Quoted from vec-tor:I would isolate the two coils by having one High voltage contact relay
handle the activation..
It looks like that's how it's wired by the pictured relay with the orange-black wire on one of the contacts.
Quoted from tatman9999:More pics
@tatman9999, what are the wire colors at the solenoid driver board on connectors J2 pin 8 and J5 pin 7 ? Because the manual/schematics aren't listing the wire color.
Also is the fuse failing the moment the gates switch on or when they are on for a bit?
Did you measure the resistance across the gate coils yet?
Quoted from Quench:The CA3081 failure is a base pin goes open circuit (measuring over 4.0V instead of 0.8V) and this condition causes the driver transistor downstream to turn on hard locking the respective coil.
It looks like that's how it's wired by the pictured relay with the orange-black wire on one of the contacts.
tatman9999, what are the wire colors at the solenoid driver board on connectors J2 pin 8 and J5 pin 7 ? Because the manual/schematics aren't listing the wire color.
Also is the fuse failing the moment the gates switch on or when they are on for a bit?
Did you measure the resistance across the gate coils yet?
it blows right when gates are supposed to move. Right now one coil went bad amd the other gate works fine. Last week the other coil was bad and the other coil worked fine when playing. It is only when both gate coils are working that there is a problem.
61FBE9DD-F042-4921-B46B-093D2085BB2F (resized).jpeg7407E456-DE45-492E-A10C-33C2D35CA336 (resized).jpegAnyone used the Blue S drop target decals from Marco? How's the quality? Any other sources out there? This is all I could find.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/13A-9-B-D
Hey Classic Stern fans. I am selling off some extra parts from my current conversion. More will be added as I get time.
Quoted from tatman9999:J5
[quoted image]
I haven't even read all of your posts, but I see corrosion on the pin with the red-white wire. I would repin that entire connector, and probably replace the entire housing as well.
Quoted from PinFixin:I haven't even read all of your posts, but I see corrosion on the pin with the red-white wire. I would repin that entire connector, and probably replace the entire housing as well.
If that is the wire in the J5 connector you are referring to, that metal on the pin looks like it is reflecting the shiny green mask of the PCB, not corroded.
Does anyone have a Star Gazer or Seawitch apron decal they are willing to part with? It sounds like new ones are coming but I have an immediate need. Please PM me.
Quoted from PinFixin:I haven't even read all of your posts, but I see corrosion on the pin with the red-white wire. I would repin that entire connector, and probably replace the entire housing as well.
They where all repinned
Quoted from tatman9999:They where all repinned
Are you sure? The pins in that connector all look corroded.
On the cabinets when repainting or restoring. Are you guys replacing the inside corner plates and if so which version is best to use? Bally/Williams or stern.
Quoted from China_Grove:On the cabinets when repainting or restoring. Are you guys replacing the inside corner plates and if so which version is best to use? Bally/Williams or stern.
I'd use the ones that attach to the side and front of the cabinet vs. the plate only on the wood. They help with keeping the cabinet square. Doesn't matter which version as long as they attach there.
The original style plates I don't like they get loose and then you have alignment issues.
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Wichita, KS
