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(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

5 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

11 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #227 Various gate tips. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #269 Hi quality thoughts from Cotton about inlanes. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #279 Playfield touch up tips. Posted by klr650 (5 years ago)

Post #309 Stern inserts suggestions. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #310 Seawitch gate flap solution. Posted by frunch (5 years ago)

Post #1033 Bally drop targets on the classic stern, even mix and match. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #1569 Step by Step Guide for Disassembly / Reassembly of Bally and Stern Coin Doors. Posted by TractorDoc (4 years ago)

Post #1958 Star Gazer podcast episode link. Posted by DRDAVE (4 years ago)

Post #2587 Link to 3D printed parts available from HHaase. Posted by HHaase (4 years ago)

Post #2590 Link to 3D printed parts by Swinks, available at Shapeways. Posted by swinks (4 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1603 4 years ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Okay, so hypothetical question here:

What will it take to convert a M-100 game to an M-200 game? Let's pretend I wanted to change my Dracula into a Quicksilver.

Besides the cosmetic stuff (PF, plastics, BG, stencils), what else needs to be redone? If I were to use a weebly mpu, that should take care of the mpu swap. A soundboard SB200 would be needed.

I see previously in this thread that the M100 games us 16B-3 transformer, and the M200 use 16B-6. Anyone know the difference?

What else would need to change (besides a LOT of re-wiring)?

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#1655 4 years ago
 
DJB

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Quoted from cottonm4:

You will need a new lamp board and SDU (Alltek) . You will need a play field harness and displays/back box harness; I believe Third Coast pinball has tooled up for the QS play field harness. He does have the back box harness. Shawn's wire harnesses will be the best money you ever spend.
Weebly has a new sound board, I think.
16B-3 vs. 16B-6 flipper amps from rectifier board is 5 amps on the MPU-100 pins and 7 amps on the MPU-200 pins.

Thanks. Yes, the pf and backbox harness would be the wiring side of it. It could be done manually (maybe even modifying the ones from Dracula).

In reviewing the schematics, yes the fuse difference at F4 on the rectifier board is 5 amp vs 7 amp. I should be able to swap that out, right?

The only other difference (from the schematic) is J1-3 on the rectifier for the 16B-3 is listed as SPARE, while on 16B-6 it's listed as FEATURE LAMP BUS. That's an easy modification if needed.

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#1656 4 years ago
 
DJB

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Quoted from cottonm4:

Oh year, one more item you will need that is not on your Dracula. Quicksilver uses one 3-place drop target assembly. It also uses a 4-place drop target assembly. AFAIK, QS is the only classic Stern to use a 4 -place drop assembly. I could be wrong, but I think you will have to get creative.

Dracula has a 3 bank drop target, and 4 bank drop target. So no issue there.

I've compared the features of the games side-by-side, and Dracula is just short some stand up targets (but has extra rollovers), so it all evens out.

I think the toughest item to get will be the ball guides. Anyone have those remade?

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#1660 4 years ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from cottonm4:

I know Redketchup made his own guides for his Star Gazer project. So, it can be done. While I bought those guides that were being made for SG, for QS I am going to make my own. But it will take some sheet metal skills to make it happen.

That may end up being the path I take. I'd much rather purchase a set, but I can make them if needed.

Well, once I finally get my stuff organized, I'll make sure to start a thread on the transformation.

3 months later
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#2301 4 years ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Here’s kinda what is should look like

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

3 months later
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#2675 4 years ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from Coyote:

Basically, once of these, but that references 'Tokens' instead of actual currency:
http://www.pbresource.com/coindoor/ccm-13c-2-59.jpg

Check with ULEKstore If he doesn't have it, he might be able to make it for you.

2 months later
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#2961 4 years ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from Madmax541:

Was considering T-nuts

T nut it for sure. Unless you’re doing an exact production restore, t nuts are better.

3 weeks later
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#3097 3 years ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Appreciate the offer and pep talk! I have some junk boards I’ve been practicing de-soldering on. Guess I can just do the reverse while I wait for the kit.
Have decent enough tools, so you’ve pushed me off the cliff... the kit it is, thanks!

White looks pretty good (imho)

Here’s mine ready to be played.

D44D6042-6875-4118-AA07-BD528A6EFE95 (resized).jpegD44D6042-6875-4118-AA07-BD528A6EFE95 (resized).jpeg
1 month later
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#3338 3 years ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from Tsskinne:

Yep that was my plan

Pop bumper cap screws work great.

2 weeks later
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#3384 3 years ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from EEE:

Any suggestions on where to find a coin return flap? It’s missing from the coin door on our Nine Ball.
Also, are the coin entry “Stern Free Play“ inserts pictured homemade or are they available as well?
Thanks
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

If you feel like soaking one in some evaporust, I've got coin return flap in the yard sale pile:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-quicksilver-itch-from-scratch/page/6#post-5657854

2 months later
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#3774 3 years ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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I’m sure I’m in for at least a pair. Could be more once I start getting through some of my projects.

7 months later
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#4878 2 years ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from rcbrown316:

[quoted image]

Wow, someone is going to have a good time with pf swaps!

3 months later
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#5589 2 years ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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I went through the packet that was in my Stern Lightning, and found some cool documents. Here's the Test Game Report that was in the game. There were three of them, but nothing was filled out.

I thought the group might like seeing this.

SEI Test Game Report.pdfSEI Test Game Report.pdf

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#5590 2 years ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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And here's some Lightning specific literature:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-lightning-club-welcome-to-valhalla/page/3#post-6462600

I really enjoy the early version of the manual. It's all hand drawn, copied (ditto machine) so there is imprints on the back, and some of the items are crooked on the sheet. It's neat to look at this, and compare with the production version.

1 month later
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#5810 2 years ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Another Nine ball has surfaced. Overall, it’s in marginal shape. Lots of wiring hacks though.

This will get added to the restore queue that I have. So a couple years from now.

C4378A78-75D5-4BC5-9A97-72A261EFCC58 (resized).jpegC4378A78-75D5-4BC5-9A97-72A261EFCC58 (resized).jpeg

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#5815 2 years ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from DudeRegular:

Looks like a solid place to start from what we can see in the pics! Also spy EBD behind it. I love that one too.

Yep, EBD is another good restore project. Not picture: Dolly Parton. A complete wreck. But we'll save her and make her pretty again too.

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#5839 2 years ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from cottonm4:

Mirco play field

Has he fixed the missing text yet?

1 month later
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#6156 2 years ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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This was a hack in my nine ball I posted in the club thread. Someone added an additional reset coil to the large bank—actually I plan on leaving it.

However, they added an additional wire for the added coil (ground). It eventually ties back to the other coils ground, in the head.

My question is: can you drive two coils from the same transistor?
I’ll clean up the wiring hacks, and just daisy chain the grounds. But wanted to see if there would be any adverse effects by grounding two reset coils by the same transistor.
044C03DE-CC9C-4583-B148-4ED9BDBAAA2B (resized).jpeg044C03DE-CC9C-4583-B148-4ED9BDBAAA2B (resized).jpeg

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#6161 2 years ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from Quench:

Yes, Bally did it on drop target banks with 6 or more targets: Someone installed a 27-2300 coil on your bank which is used on 5 drop target or less banks and it might not have been strong enough for that big bank so it might be the reason they doubled up the coils.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Spot on response, as usual, Quench. Thank you.

I thought I had seen the doubled reset coils somewhere, but couldn’t remember what game it was. I should have thought of the large bank Bally’s.

Thanks again.

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#6167 2 years ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from Quench:

Nope. But I should say if you're thinking of doing this don't use the super strength 24-1600 coils Stern used for this 8 bank. Use two of the weaker coils (26-1900 or 27-2300)
The picture djblouw posted above shows a Stern 27-2300 coil and a Bally ??? coil (which is unlikely to be a super strength unit).

The Bally coil is a 24-1400

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#6169 2 years ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from Quench:

So what are you going to do since the assembly already has a Stern spec coil?
If you're staying with double coil, I would check your other Bally/Stern games to see if you can swap the 24-1400 out with a weaker drop target coil from another game.

My original plan was to just leave both in the game. I assume it worked, but really can’t be very. Will this create extra stress on the transistor?

I’ll dig into Dolly & EBD to see what they have in them currently.

2 weeks later
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#6189 2 years ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from play_pinball:

Glad to have had a project to keep myself busy today. I am in the process of building up my second Quicksilver and the stencils arrived today. Now, I had intended to make this one nicer than my first (and it will be) and then sell the first one. Now that game is going to be too sentimental for me to ever let go and this one will go up for trade/sale.
Aside from my first scratch-build, it now holds the distinct honor of being the last game my dad played. He passed away a couple days ago. It’s a terrible feeling that I won’t get to play my games with him anymore or hear him scream when a ball goes straight down the middle after hitting one switch. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The new machine is looking good.

Very sorry for the loss of your dad. That first QS will always be a special machine.

1 year later
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#8444 1 year ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from cottonm4:

This pic is of the lane dividers on my Quicksilver build. The lights under the lane dividers are wired up like feature lights, but they just stay on like GI lights.
The yellow insert lights all work properly. What are these lane divider lights supposed to do?
[quoted image]

When the shot for extra ball is lit (with the yellow light) the lane dividers flash for that letter.

A pretty unique feature that I haven’t experienced on other games.

2 months later
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#9064 9 months ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Does anybody know if it's possibble to get replacements for drop target coil stops and new plastic coil sleeves for Stern drop target coils? PBR doesnt carrry them and entering the Stern catalog part number gets me no hits at Pinball Life or Marco...

Here's what I've used in the past for coil sleeves from Marco, with good results:

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

I haven't come across the coil stops yet.

1 month later
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#9371 8 months ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from statictrance:

Yep - I tried the .15" x 1/2" spiral nails on Marco I figured were for this cause they were the 1/2" length, but that still seems a bit too thick. Was hoping someone had a size or link

The hole size in stern metal guides is 0.060" So the diameter of the nail should be smaller than that. 3/64" would work good.

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#9374 8 months ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Use the right size screw if you're going that route. It's a #0 x 1/4" screw. Affordable from McMaster.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

Another option is a drive screw #00 x 3/16, or so

pasted_image2 (resized).pngpasted_image2 (resized).png

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#9379 8 months ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from roar:

Having a need to do this myself someday soon when I start my Big Game swap... honest question, this is a sheet metal screw, it's going through metal and into wood, what makes that the right screw? I would have guessed wood screw was the right one?

I said the right size screw--as in, don't use a #4 screw and try to drill through your stainless ball guide.

But, sheet metal screws are used on playfields all the time. See all those hex head screws holding the mechanism on the underside.

In the case of the the ball guides in the original question, a slightly longer screw could be needed if the current hole has been compromised. But if you've got a new set of wood pf rails, sheet metal screws will hold just as well.

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#9395 8 months ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from cottonm4:

Before you lock your ball guides to the rails with drive screws, make this mod.
This is how the left hand ball guide looks from the factory. What you have is a sharp metal edge the ball keeps whacking and winds up with dings and scratches.
[quoted image]
Bend about 1/4" of the ball guide back. The ball guide is soft metal and is easy to bend, especially if you have a bench vise. Bend it to where it just touches the post rubber so it does not cut the rubber.
[quoted image]
This bend will push the guide into the post rubber and the ball will stay nice and shiny. An added benefit is that with part of the ball guide bent back and out of the way, it opens up the lane and you can get an occasional of right hand flipper shot going up from the bottom of the lane and coming out from from the top.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Along the same lines, with the right hand ball guide, bend back the lower part of the guide to get rid of the ball nick hazard. When you bend this one back you will need to remove part of the guide material so it will not cut into the post rubber.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
The ball will look good for a lot longer if you make these mods.

That some great advice. I’m going to have to try this.

1 week later
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#9446 7 months ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from sethbenjamin:

2) I've been asked about chrome plating the side rails on a wide body classic Stern. The ones on there now aren't bad but are just wavy and dented enough that I think chroming them even with a ton of prep will look pretty bad. I am just assuming nobody makes repros of wide body rails, but figured I should check with the forum here first....?

Pinball Life sells replacement wide body rails for Classic Stern.

I wouldn’t bother with original ones—if they’re bent they’ll show it.

https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-stern-stainless-steel-side-rail-set-for-widebody-machines.html

1 month later
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#9839 6 months ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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11y 110K 1,816

Quoted from cottonm4:

Thank you. I know about the dip switch settings. I need to know if the corrected Nine Ball ROM comes with the MPU board or do I need to buy the corrected ROMs separately from someone who is set up to burn ROMs.

Yes it does. But you can email Andrew and ask. When I bought one for 9 ball the latest correction from slochar had recently came out. Andrew made sure it was in the mpu when he shipped it.

3 weeks later
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#10147 5 months ago
 
DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from play_pinball:

I hate to say it because it’s faaaar from me but if smileymatthew still has that prototype Lazer Lord (2nd Version 1984), it’d ideally be close enough for him to bring it. That’s the classic stern white(wood) whale imo. Until someone uncovers a Hypnox at least
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lazerlord-whitewood-gameplay-video

We were planning to have a Classic Stern Row at Pinball at the Zoo in 2020. Of course we know what happened to shows that year.

I think we had 14 or 15 unique titles, including a white whale. It would have been impressive.

But everyone’s lives (and collections) have changed in some way or another, so it’s unlikely to come together again.

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