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(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).


By Mitch

2 years ago



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  • 4,211 posts
  • 266 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Joydivision
  • Topic is favorited by 144 Pinsiders

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There are 4211 posts in this topic. You are on page 52 of 85.
#2551 11 months ago

Anyone know where to get the parts to rebuild the chimes for Stars? I would like to get new grommets, sleeves, etc. The parts currently on the game look rigged up/not original so I'd like to get it all back in proper order.

#2552 11 months ago
Quoted from frunch:

Anyone know where to get the parts to rebuild the chimes for Stars? I would like to get new grommets, sleeves, etc. The parts currently on the game look rigged up/not original so I'd like to get it all back in proper order.

I don't have direct experience with Classic Stern chimes, but pbresource.com has Bally, Williams and Gottleib chime parts if any are interchangeable.

#2553 11 months ago
Quoted from frunch:

Anyone know where to get the parts to rebuild the chimes for Stars? I would like to get new grommets, sleeves, etc. The parts currently on the game look rigged up/not original so I'd like to get it all back in proper order.

PBR sells Bally chime rebuild kits. Steve would know if it’s compatible for Stern chime units.

#2554 11 months ago

I'll drop The Pinball Resource a line and see what they say. I'll report back with any info i receive.

Thanks!

11
#2555 11 months ago
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#2556 11 months ago

That Catacomb looks like a neat pin!

#2557 11 months ago

Cosmic Princess all up and running.

Playfield all stripped and tidied up. It has a few touch ups from a previous owner, but I’ll live with them. Retro LEDs fitted, with Hans’ adapters.

Just got to get some new flipper bats in from the States and it’ll be ready to play.

Cabinet has been weirdly lightly sanded in places, I’ll tidy that up next.

rd

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#2558 11 months ago

Current resto...

20827FA4-9CFA-494E-876B-2545EDE75FBF (resized).jpeg931AF941-F3A6-451B-B94C-33B7223B4C1C (resized).jpeg9F6C0441-2595-4251-89BE-758C9A0B3954 (resized).jpegAF13A0C6-2E62-4262-BE86-45865CAC30F4 (resized).jpegC1F46333-004D-4D64-8342-58F53C9C5E17 (resized).jpeg
#2559 11 months ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Current resto...[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

How is your play field? Is the clear cured and hard?

#2560 11 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

How is your play field? Is the clear cured and hard?

It’s been professionally re-cleared so yep and yep. After only a few days it’s already much better than how I received it from Mirco months after production.

#2561 11 months ago

Anyone need/want a Stern Seawitch reproduction playfied?

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#2562 11 months ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Anyone need/want a Stern Seawitch reproduction playfied?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Maybe. That's one of John's white arrow play fields. You just got it. Is is clear or unclear?

Don't you like it?

#2563 11 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Maybe. That's one of John's white arrow play fields. You just got it. Is is clear or unclear?
Don't you like it?

On face page he said he sold his seawitch

#2564 11 months ago

Just got 2 sterns last week

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#2565 11 months ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

Just got 2 sterns last week[quoted image]

Whoa nice! Going old school

#2566 11 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Maybe. That's one of John's white arrow play fields. You just got it. Is is clear or unclear?
Don't you like it?

Yeah sold Seawitch. New owner didn’t want to do the swap, I don’t have need for it and stranger things coming I’m going for a newer stern.

#2567 11 months ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Yeah sold Seawitch. New owner didn’t want to do the swap, I don’t have need for it and stranger things coming I’m going for a newer stern.

Is it clear coated or not clear coated?

#2568 11 months ago

The tests with white arrows had varethane water based clear sprayed by me to cut costs. The yellow production ones are slowly getting ready for printing. 1 is there (printer) & I hope up to 5 more go in on Friday. Some customers will do their own finish, & I have a new contractor lined up for auto clear starting January 2020. I can say that playfield is way better than the last 6 tests still here I am fixing up.

#2569 11 months ago

Pinball Pimp Stencils tip:

For any of you that are restoring or building one of these classic Sterns I have an observation to share on how to index/locate your stencils onto your cabinet. For some of the pins, you get some slack. For some others, it all depends how much of a perfectionist you are and how anal you want to be about.

For pins like Catacomb you get some slack. For the others, realizing that Stern was not the practitioner of precision manufacturing, it all depends on how you feel.

Here is Catacomb to start. For the most part, on Catacomb, you will be indexing the stencil from the bottom of the cab. You will understand more of what I mean as I continue.

Screen Shot 2019-12-18 at 6.44.56 PM (resized).png

Seawitch is about like Catacomb, but the stenciled wave at the back of the cab needs to match up with the lower edge of the stainless side rail.

Screen Shot 2019-12-18 at 6.50.41 PM (resized).png

Here is a Big Game. Notice how the ram's horn at the back of the cabinet matches to the edge of the stainless rail.

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And here is my Big Game. When I placed my stencils, I indexed to the bottom of the cabinet, but in doing so, i missed getting the correct match with the horns and the side rail. There is a gap between the horns and the side rail that should not be there. Is it a big deal? It all depends on how you feel. Someday, perhaps, I will get around to correcting this.

BTW: I did not purchase Pinball Pimp stencils for Big Game. They are simple enough that I traced and made my own. I did not throw them away.

IMG_2601 (resized).jpg

Here is my Star Gazer. SG was a fairly easy stencil to apply.

Here is a pic of my SG with the stainless rail in position. Notice the two pieces of blue tape for reference.

Screen Shot 2019-12-18 at 7.12.28 PM (resized).png

Now, with the rail removed. With this pic it is evident how much of the stencil white lies above the match line on the rail. I was not aware of what I am currently speaking about when I applied the SG stencil and just got lucky that the stencil had a lot of meat on it.

Screen Shot 2019-12-18 at 7.07.40 PM (resized).png

Here is a Nine Ball. Notice how there is no orange gap between the stainless rail and the blue of the stencil. I have seen one NB where there is an orange gap between the blue stencil and the rail.

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Here is a FLight 2000. My F2K looks just like this one. There is a gap between the rail and the yellow points of the explosion graphic. I don't think the gap is supposed to be there but Stern was producing fast and loose. So who knows. If I ever decide to restore my F2K I will probably correct this, but I am in no hurry.

1132 (resized).jpg

And there is Quicksilver. Notice how the black stencil almost makes it to the rail. There is a small gap but it is not bad.

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Here is a pic of my QS cab. I did not get the stencil indexed to the cab rail correctly and when I was finished I had a 1/2' to 5/8" gap between the rail and the stencil. I did not want a gap so I had do to some masking and touchup work so I could be gap free. It was a PIA but was not too hard to correct.

Screen Shot 2019-12-18 at 6.32.54 PM (resized).png

If something in here got your attention and you want to index your stencils so there is no gap, you have to lay your rail on the side of your cab and on top of the stencil and start moving the stencil underneath the rail and when it lines up then tape the stencil down.

I hope this helps you all restorers out in the future.

#2570 11 months ago

I had to be careful with my Nineball. Look how my original cab was made12B082E9-BA61-4AAF-9AC3-56FE65FFBD86 (resized).jpeg

With the pimball pimp stencil, the blue is going all the way to the top And there is enough under the side rail to be ok2FDAB98A-1DB2-48F7-8860-DE1E16A6470A (resized).jpeg

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#2571 11 months ago

if only there was a good way to get spare/new cabinets for Stern... cheap Stern project are so hard to find.

#2572 11 months ago

Love you passion cottonm4.

What’s your guess on how accurate mine will be? I won’t see it in person for another month or so, but you’ve got me intrigued as to how it’ll look with siderails on.

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#2573 11 months ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Love you passion cottonm4.
What’s your guess on how accurate mine will be? I won’t see it in person for another month or so, but you’ve got me intrigued as to how it’ll look with siderails on.[quoted image][quoted image]

If you look at the black stencil "line" down low at the back you can see it is positioned just above the lower bolt hole for the leg, I am going to guess that your painter got your stencil positioned so you will have no gap. I was off around 1/2" and my stencil went straight to that leg attachment hole.

I'll interested in what you discover.

You could give your painter the measurement of your rail so he can check it out and make any alterations you might want.

#2574 11 months ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

I had to be careful with my Nineball. Look how my original cab was made[quoted image]
With the pimball pimp stencil, the blue is going all the way to the top And there is enough under the side rail to be ok[quoted image]
[quoted image]

I realize that you do not have your red accents painted on your Pinball Pimp pic (that I have shamelessly reversed) but the PP stencil looks different.

The Wizard looks like he has been moved closer to the front of the cab. If you look closely, the PP pic has a small star and a small ball behind the Wizard's head while the factory job only has the small star and the small ball is missing.

My NB looks like your factory pic with only the small star behind the Wizard's head.

Screen Shot 2019-12-19 at 11.25.52 AM (resized).png

#2575 11 months ago

it was there!

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#2576 11 months ago

with the red now!

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#2577 11 months ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

it was there![quoted image]

I see it now. But all mine has is the small star behind the Wizard's head.

I guess this sort of supports my position that Stern did not work with a high degree of precision where stenciling occurred.

IMG_2606 (resized).jpg

#2578 11 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

If you look at the black stencil "line" down low at the back you can see it is positioned just above the lower bolt hole for the leg, I am going to guess that your painter got your stencil positioned so you will have no gap. I was off around 1/2" and my stencil went straight to that leg attachment hole.
I'll interested in what you discover.
You could give your painter the measurement of your rail so he can check it out and make any alterations you might want.

Aah you’re right... yep, might touch base and double check. Thanks.

#2579 11 months ago

Looking for a complete early Stern knocker mech. PM me if you have one you’ll part with.

#2580 11 months ago

Guten Morgen,

They attach great importance to the condition of the case. For me, only the field is important.
However, the housing must be nicotine free.
Is there a color scale for early star cases?
Has anyone of you already gold-plated the siderails?
Or built-in mirror plates.

#2581 11 months ago
Quoted from jj44114:

Looking for a complete early Stern knocker mech. PM me if you have one you’ll part with.

found.

#2582 11 months ago

Time to join the club. I have owned Stars for a year and half and still havent knocked off the GC of 631K set on it at Pinvasion V, but have been close a bunch of times.

If you need them, CPR just got Stars mirrored backglasses in stock:

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/stars-glass/

#2583 11 months ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Time to join the club. I have owned Stars for a year and half and still havent knocked off the GC of 631K set on it at Pinvasion V, but have been close a bunch of times.
If you need them, CPR just got Stars mirrored backglasses in stock:
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/stars-glass/

Wish they had a repro playfield!

#2584 11 months ago

Just picked up some yellow and green material for the 3D printed stuff I'm doing. The green was requested to match the Quicksilver playfield, and looks really good (Pantone 341C is the exact color). Here's a few start buttons heading out the door on Monday most likely. I should have grabbed some red while I was at it, would look great in the coin entries on my Lectronamo while I still have it.

The more 3D stuff I do, the more I think I want to greatly expand this part of the business. Just started taking courses in 3D modelling to improve my abilities so I can start doing more complex designs.

-Hans

IMGP6368 (resized).JPG
#2585 11 months ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Just picked up some yellow and green material for the 3D printed stuff I'm doing. The green was requested to match the Quicksilver playfield, and looks really good (Pantone 341C is the exact color). Here's a few start buttons heading out the door on Monday most likely. I should have grabbed some red while I was at it, would look great in the coin entries on my Lectronamo while I still have it.
The more 3D stuff I do, the more I think I want to greatly expand this part of the business. Just started taking courses in 3D modelling to improve my abilities so I can start doing more complex designs.
-Hans[quoted image]

Nice work, make sure to post up your designs at Shapeways so people can order directly and you make a commission on each sale and make sure to tag with "pinball" so the range can grow. A few of us have gear there and it is growing.

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=pinball&sort=newest

#2586 11 months ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Just picked up some yellow and green material for the 3D printed stuff I'm doing. The green was requested to match the Quicksilver playfield, and looks really good (Pantone 341C is the exact color). Here's a few start buttons heading out the door on Monday most likely. I should have grabbed some red while I was at it, would look great in the coin entries on my Lectronamo while I still have it.
The more 3D stuff I do, the more I think I want to greatly expand this part of the business. Just started taking courses in 3D modelling to improve my abilities so I can start doing more complex designs.
-Hans[quoted image]

Fantastic news that you are making a lot of these unobtainable parts , I will be definitely ordering some of these
I know this is not the right section but the start buttons for some of the system 11 games you just can’t get ,green for Taxi ,Yellow for Dinner ,I’m sure there’s others
I’ve also being trying to find the Williams Indy Jones Rotor Cup plastic for the Idol Lock they are either broken & beyond repair

#2587 11 months ago

Swinks: I'm actually slowly building up a print-farm at home, all FDM at the moment but I'm looking to branch into resin at some point. But the cost and material handling requirements go up exponentially in that way. So I've had to alter some designs in order to make them FDM print friendly, or tweak a bit due to strength issues on the original parts.

The library is growing though, and all up on my website.
https://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_category=21&controller=category&id_lang=1

#2588 11 months ago
Quoted from Dicky:

I’ve also being trying to find the Williams Indy Jones Rotor Cup plastic for the Idol Lock they are either broken & beyond repair

Nos copies available in the Marketplace. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/84745

#2589 11 months ago

Biggest problem I have with making new things available is getting either an original or a good dimensional drawing from an original to model from. Without reference material I’m dead in the water.

I also don’t work from reproductions or other peoples 3D models. I need originals to work from, even if my design deviates from there. Firstly because I don’t know if the reproduction actually works or not. But more importantly is that I don’t rip off my competitors like that. It’s one thing for me to have a competing design, but only if I do my own research and development work to get it to market.

#2590 11 months ago

here is my range of SS parts if people are hunting down parts
https://swinks.com.au/ss-parts

and my full range of pinball parts - mods, reproduction parts and tools
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinkspinball&sort=newest

#2591 11 months ago

flight 2000 used plastic set complete , some broken pieces , free , now spoken for

DSC00710 (resized).JPGDSC00711 (resized).JPG
#2592 10 months ago

My buddy is cleaning up my catacomb mpu and was checking the rom revision. Looks like it’s a later revision that’s not documented anywhere (RA23 opposed to standard RA22). Does anyone have any info about this revision. He’s dissecting it currently but thinks it’s pretty different than RA22.

#2593 10 months ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

My buddy is cleaning up my catacomb mpu and was checking the rom revision. Looks like it’s a later revision that’s not documented anywhere (RA23 opposed to standard RA22). Does anyone have any info about this revision. He’s dissecting it currently but thinks it’s pretty different than RA22.

I've dumped two Catacomb MPU boards that had RA32 ROMs - one board had a faulty U1 that read differently on each read, but everything else including the four ROMs on the second board matched the RA22 ROM set on IPDB.
So is your RA23 actually different to RA22?

Added 10 months ago:

Looks like I made a boo boo, it appears the boards I dumped had RA22 ROMs.

#2594 10 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

I've dumped two Catacomb MPU boards that had RA32 ROMs - one board had a faulty U1 that read differently on each read, but everything else including the four ROMs on the second board matched the RA22 ROM set on IPDB.
So is your RA23 actually different to RA22?

It is, but it might just be shifted up about 15-17 bytes in most locations. As to if there's any minute differences between the roms, that's going to require a full disassembly and analysis of both.

#2595 10 months ago
Quoted from slochar:

It is, but it might just be shifted up about 15-17 bytes in most locations. As to if there's any minute differences between the roms, that's going to require a full disassembly and analysis of both.

Question is which is the latest? And is the set on IPDB a typo and really RA32?
Both boards I dumped had original RA32 labels.

Added 10 months ago:

Looks like I made a boo boo, it appears the boards I dumped had RA22 ROMs and the typo was on my side.

#2596 10 months ago
Quoted from slochar:

It is, but it might just be shifted up about 15-17 bytes in most locations. As to if there's any minute differences between the roms, that's going to require a full disassembly and analysis of both.

Glad I’ve got men much smarter than me on this

#2597 10 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

Question is which is the latest? And is the set on IPDB a typo and really RA32?
Both boards I dumped had original RA32 labels.

It would be nice it 32 did turn out to be the revision, because then the 23 could be a nice historical archive of an earlier version

#2598 10 months ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I grabbed a stern galaxy a few months ago, and just started to finally work on it.
I repinned/connector’ed the whole harness, just a few left to do. Was going to build the woldpac displays, and then see how bad the boards are. The power and rectifier are the new goal to figure out and redo. Little bit of a mess.
Is the huge heat sink with rectifier and a relay hanging off, is that the gi flasher Feature for attract mode?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Repin of the harness in the head is done and most plugs in the cab now. The rectifier board plugs I just repinned tonight but was curious, does anyone make or know where to get the bracket that holds the relay? I think it’s the relay for GI? Next to the transformer and the rectifier.

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#2599 10 months ago

Is there a "better" way to install the wires on the back side of the rectifier board, or is it just, solder the wires onto the back like stock?

Curious if people made a whip w/ a plug and then pin the transformer whip side. As much as I love tight spaces and wire harnesses, it seems it could be done better.....

#2600 10 months ago

Never seen anything but soldering to the back.

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