Pinball Pimp Stencils tip:
For any of you that are restoring or building one of these classic Sterns I have an observation to share on how to index/locate your stencils onto your cabinet. For some of the pins, you get some slack. For some others, it all depends how much of a perfectionist you are and how anal you want to be about.
For pins like Catacomb you get some slack. For the others, realizing that Stern was not the practitioner of precision manufacturing, it all depends on how you feel.
Here is Catacomb to start. For the most part, on Catacomb, you will be indexing the stencil from the bottom of the cab. You will understand more of what I mean as I continue.
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Seawitch is about like Catacomb, but the stenciled wave at the back of the cab needs to match up with the lower edge of the stainless side rail.
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Here is a Big Game. Notice how the ram's horn at the back of the cabinet matches to the edge of the stainless rail.
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And here is my Big Game. When I placed my stencils, I indexed to the bottom of the cabinet, but in doing so, i missed getting the correct match with the horns and the side rail. There is a gap between the horns and the side rail that should not be there. Is it a big deal? It all depends on how you feel. Someday, perhaps, I will get around to correcting this.
BTW: I did not purchase Pinball Pimp stencils for Big Game. They are simple enough that I traced and made my own. I did not throw them away.
Here is my Star Gazer. SG was a fairly easy stencil to apply.
Here is a pic of my SG with the stainless rail in position. Notice the two pieces of blue tape for reference.
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Now, with the rail removed. With this pic it is evident how much of the stencil white lies above the match line on the rail. I was not aware of what I am currently speaking about when I applied the SG stencil and just got lucky that the stencil had a lot of meat on it.
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Here is a Nine Ball. Notice how there is no orange gap between the stainless rail and the blue of the stencil. I have seen one NB where there is an orange gap between the blue stencil and the rail.
Here is a FLight 2000. My F2K looks just like this one. There is a gap between the rail and the yellow points of the explosion graphic. I don't think the gap is supposed to be there but Stern was producing fast and loose. So who knows. If I ever decide to restore my F2K I will probably correct this, but I am in no hurry.
And there is Quicksilver. Notice how the black stencil almost makes it to the rail. There is a small gap but it is not bad.
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Here is a pic of my QS cab. I did not get the stencil indexed to the cab rail correctly and when I was finished I had a 1/2' to 5/8" gap between the rail and the stencil. I did not want a gap so I had do to some masking and touchup work so I could be gap free. It was a PIA but was not too hard to correct.
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If something in here got your attention and you want to index your stencils so there is no gap, you have to lay your rail on the side of your cab and on top of the stencil and start moving the stencil underneath the rail and when it lines up then tape the stencil down.
I hope this helps you all restorers out in the future.