Anyone know where to get the parts to rebuild the chimes for Stars? I would like to get new grommets, sleeves, etc. The parts currently on the game look rigged up/not original so I'd like to get it all back in proper order.

I don't have direct experience with Classic Stern chimes, but pbresource.com has Bally, Williams and Gottleib chime parts if any are interchangeable.

PBR sells Bally chime rebuild kits. Steve would know if it’s compatible for Stern chime units.

I'll drop The Pinball Resource a line and see what they say. I'll report back with any info i receive.

Thanks!

That Catacomb looks like a neat pin!

Cosmic Princess all up and running.

Playfield all stripped and tidied up. It has a few touch ups from a previous owner, but I’ll live with them. Retro LEDs fitted, with Hans’ adapters.

Just got to get some new flipper bats in from the States and it’ll be ready to play.

Cabinet has been weirdly lightly sanded in places, I’ll tidy that up next.

rd

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Current resto...

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How is your play field? Is the clear cured and hard?

It’s been professionally re-cleared so yep and yep. After only a few days it’s already much better than how I received it from Mirco months after production.

Anyone need/want a Stern Seawitch reproduction playfied?

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Maybe. That's one of John's white arrow play fields. You just got it. Is is clear or unclear?

Don't you like it?

On face page he said he sold his seawitch

Just got 2 sterns last week

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Whoa nice! Going old school

Yeah sold Seawitch. New owner didn’t want to do the swap, I don’t have need for it and stranger things coming I’m going for a newer stern.

Is it clear coated or not clear coated?

The tests with white arrows had varethane water based clear sprayed by me to cut costs. The yellow production ones are slowly getting ready for printing. 1 is there (printer) & I hope up to 5 more go in on Friday. Some customers will do their own finish, & I have a new contractor lined up for auto clear starting January 2020. I can say that playfield is way better than the last 6 tests still here I am fixing up.

Pinball Pimp Stencils tip:

For any of you that are restoring or building one of these classic Sterns I have an observation to share on how to index/locate your stencils onto your cabinet. For some of the pins, you get some slack. For some others, it all depends how much of a perfectionist you are and how anal you want to be about.

For pins like Catacomb you get some slack. For the others, realizing that Stern was not the practitioner of precision manufacturing, it all depends on how you feel.

Here is Catacomb to start. For the most part, on Catacomb, you will be indexing the stencil from the bottom of the cab. You will understand more of what I mean as I continue.

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Seawitch is about like Catacomb, but the stenciled wave at the back of the cab needs to match up with the lower edge of the stainless side rail.

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Here is a Big Game. Notice how the ram's horn at the back of the cabinet matches to the edge of the stainless rail.

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And here is my Big Game. When I placed my stencils, I indexed to the bottom of the cabinet, but in doing so, i missed getting the correct match with the horns and the side rail. There is a gap between the horns and the side rail that should not be there. Is it a big deal? It all depends on how you feel. Someday, perhaps, I will get around to correcting this.

BTW: I did not purchase Pinball Pimp stencils for Big Game. They are simple enough that I traced and made my own. I did not throw them away.

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Here is my Star Gazer. SG was a fairly easy stencil to apply.

Here is a pic of my SG with the stainless rail in position. Notice the two pieces of blue tape for reference.

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Now, with the rail removed. With this pic it is evident how much of the stencil white lies above the match line on the rail. I was not aware of what I am currently speaking about when I applied the SG stencil and just got lucky that the stencil had a lot of meat on it.

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Here is a Nine Ball. Notice how there is no orange gap between the stainless rail and the blue of the stencil. I have seen one NB where there is an orange gap between the blue stencil and the rail.

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Here is a FLight 2000. My F2K looks just like this one. There is a gap between the rail and the yellow points of the explosion graphic. I don't think the gap is supposed to be there but Stern was producing fast and loose. So who knows. If I ever decide to restore my F2K I will probably correct this, but I am in no hurry.

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And there is Quicksilver. Notice how the black stencil almost makes it to the rail. There is a small gap but it is not bad.

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Here is a pic of my QS cab. I did not get the stencil indexed to the cab rail correctly and when I was finished I had a 1/2' to 5/8" gap between the rail and the stencil. I did not want a gap so I had do to some masking and touchup work so I could be gap free. It was a PIA but was not too hard to correct.

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If something in here got your attention and you want to index your stencils so there is no gap, you have to lay your rail on the side of your cab and on top of the stencil and start moving the stencil underneath the rail and when it lines up then tape the stencil down.

I hope this helps you all restorers out in the future.

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With the pimball pimp stencil, the blue is going all the way to the top And there is enough under the side rail to be ok2FDAB98A-1DB2-48F7-8860-DE1E16A6470A (resized).jpeg

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if only there was a good way to get spare/new cabinets for Stern... cheap Stern project are so hard to find.

Love you passion @cottonm4.

What’s your guess on how accurate mine will be? I won’t see it in person for another month or so, but you’ve got me intrigued as to how it’ll look with siderails on.

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If you look at the black stencil "line" down low at the back you can see it is positioned just above the lower bolt hole for the leg, I am going to guess that your painter got your stencil positioned so you will have no gap. I was off around 1/2" and my stencil went straight to that leg attachment hole.

I'll interested in what you discover.

You could give your painter the measurement of your rail so he can check it out and make any alterations you might want.

I realize that you do not have your red accents painted on your Pinball Pimp pic (that I have shamelessly reversed) but the PP stencil looks different.

The Wizard looks like he has been moved closer to the front of the cab. If you look closely, the PP pic has a small star and a small ball behind the Wizard's head while the factory job only has the small star and the small ball is missing.

My NB looks like your factory pic with only the small star behind the Wizard's head.

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it was there!

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with the red now!

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I see it now. But all mine has is the small star behind the Wizard's head.

I guess this sort of supports my position that Stern did not work with a high degree of precision where stenciling occurred.

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Aah you’re right... yep, might touch base and double check. Thanks.

Looking for a complete early Stern knocker mech. PM me if you have one you’ll part with.

Guten Morgen,

They attach great importance to the condition of the case. For me, only the field is important.
However, the housing must be nicotine free.
Is there a color scale for early star cases?
Has anyone of you already gold-plated the siderails?
Or built-in mirror plates.

found.

Time to join the club. I have owned Stars for a year and half and still havent knocked off the GC of 631K set on it at Pinvasion V, but have been close a bunch of times.

If you need them, CPR just got Stars mirrored backglasses in stock:

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/stars-glass/

Wish they had a repro playfield!

Just picked up some yellow and green material for the 3D printed stuff I'm doing. The green was requested to match the Quicksilver playfield, and looks really good (Pantone 341C is the exact color). Here's a few start buttons heading out the door on Monday most likely. I should have grabbed some red while I was at it, would look great in the coin entries on my Lectronamo while I still have it.

The more 3D stuff I do, the more I think I want to greatly expand this part of the business. Just started taking courses in 3D modelling to improve my abilities so I can start doing more complex designs.

-Hans

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Nice work, make sure to post up your designs at Shapeways so people can order directly and you make a commission on each sale and make sure to tag with "pinball" so the range can grow. A few of us have gear there and it is growing.

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=pinball&sort=newest

Fantastic news that you are making a lot of these unobtainable parts , I will be definitely ordering some of these
I know this is not the right section but the start buttons for some of the system 11 games you just can’t get ,green for Taxi ,Yellow for Dinner ,I’m sure there’s others
I’ve also being trying to find the Williams Indy Jones Rotor Cup plastic for the Idol Lock they are either broken & beyond repair

Nos copies available in the Marketplace. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/84745

Biggest problem I have with making new things available is getting either an original or a good dimensional drawing from an original to model from. Without reference material I’m dead in the water.

I also don’t work from reproductions or other peoples 3D models. I need originals to work from, even if my design deviates from there. Firstly because I don’t know if the reproduction actually works or not. But more importantly is that I don’t rip off my competitors like that. It’s one thing for me to have a competing design, but only if I do my own research and development work to get it to market.

flight 2000 used plastic set complete , some broken pieces , free , now spoken for

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My buddy is cleaning up my catacomb mpu and was checking the rom revision. Looks like it’s a later revision that’s not documented anywhere (RA23 opposed to standard RA22). Does anyone have any info about this revision. He’s dissecting it currently but thinks it’s pretty different than RA22.

Looks like I made a boo boo, it appears the boards I dumped had RA22 ROMs.

It is, but it might just be shifted up about 15-17 bytes in most locations. As to if there's any minute differences between the roms, that's going to require a full disassembly and analysis of both.

Looks like I made a boo boo, it appears the boards I dumped had RA22 ROMs and the typo was on my side.

Glad I’ve got men much smarter than me on this

It would be nice it 32 did turn out to be the revision, because then the 23 could be a nice historical archive of an earlier version

Repin of the harness in the head is done and most plugs in the cab now. The rectifier board plugs I just repinned tonight but was curious, does anyone make or know where to get the bracket that holds the relay? I think it’s the relay for GI? Next to the transformer and the rectifier.

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Is there a "better" way to install the wires on the back side of the rectifier board, or is it just, solder the wires onto the back like stock?

Curious if people made a whip w/ a plug and then pin the transformer whip side. As much as I love tight spaces and wire harnesses, it seems it could be done better.....

Never seen anything but soldering to the back.