(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

3 years ago

Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 6,228 posts
  • 337 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by vec-tor
  • Topic is favorited by 180 Pinsiders


Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

aHR0cHM6Ly9vLnBpbnNpZGUuY29tL2EvNDcvMTYvYTQ3MTYxOGI5MTM0NzlkN2Q0YTQyZjQ2ZWQzYjk4ODAxNjc2NGJkNS5qcGc (resized).jpg
IMG_1106 (resized).JPG
IMG_1105 (resized).JPG
IMG_1104 (resized).JPG
IMG_1102 (resized).JPG
IMG_1103 (resized).JPG
IMG_1101 (resized).JPG
IMG_1100 (resized).JPG
IMG_1099 (resized).JPG
IMG_1098 (resized).JPG
IMG_1097 (resized).JPG
IMG_1096 (resized).JPG
IMG_1095 (resized).JPG
IMG_1094 (resized).JPG
IMG_1093 (resized).JPG
IMG_1092 (resized).JPG

Topic index (key posts)

10 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #227 Various gate tips. Posted by cottonm4 (3 years ago)

Post #269 Hi quality thoughts from Cotton about inlanes. Posted by cottonm4 (3 years ago)

Post #279 Playfield touch up tips. Posted by klr650 (3 years ago)

Post #309 Stern inserts suggestions. Posted by cottonm4 (3 years ago)

Post #310 Seawitch gate flap solution. Posted by frunch (3 years ago)

Post #1033 Bally drop targets on the classic stern, even mix and match. Posted by cottonm4 (2 years ago)

Post #1958 Star Gazer podcast episode link. Posted by DRDAVE (2 years ago)

Post #2587 Link to 3D printed parts available from HHaase. Posted by HHaase (2 years ago)

Post #2590 Link to 3D printed parts by Swinks, available at Shapeways. Posted by swinks (2 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider play_pinball.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#859 3 years ago

Anyone know the part number for the L-bracket that holds the ball guides to the playfield on Trident (and I'm sure many other games)? Image for reference.

Screen Shot 2019-01-14 at 4.38.51 PM (resized).png
1 year later
#2809 1 year ago

What are y'all using to scrub those things so shiny?

4 weeks later
#2974 1 year ago

A̶n̶y̶o̶n̶e̶ ̶n̶e̶e̶d̶ ̶s̶o̶m̶e̶ ̶W̶i̶l̶d̶ ̶F̶y̶r̶e̶ ̶p̶l̶a̶s̶t̶i̶c̶s̶?̶ ̶$̶5̶p̶p̶d̶ ̶(̶u̶s̶ ̶o̶n̶l̶y̶,̶ ̶b̶a̶s̶i̶c̶a̶l̶l̶y̶ ̶f̶r̶e̶e̶ ̶+̶s̶h̶i̶p̶p̶i̶n̶g̶)̶ [edit: claimed]
3A5720F6-5091-48F9-A324-462C6418F0B2 (resized).jpeg

3 weeks later
#3095 1 year ago

For those keeping score, Wild Fyre #602 is starting her transition into a Quicksilver.

9E7DBE21-148D-413B-8810-8449BAAEAD32 (resized).jpeg5B190313-140A-4D38-9CCD-FF10CF9198B7 (resized).jpeg4A17F854-DB18-4097-855F-899098F8F785 (resized).jpeg93F4B605-12A8-4FDA-ACDD-F3BD67DAE39B (resized).jpeg557D7F4C-66B2-48C6-8C32-C1A1D353F30C (resized).jpegB5FA3EF4-06B5-4E84-B244-B3783D5EE914 (resized).jpeg
#3117 1 year ago
Quoted from Mitch:

What do you see wrong with this playfeild (not the wear) and why would someone do this?[quoted image]

356149D3-97FD-4888-8BA9-46CB8390A6F8 (resized).jpeg
#3146 1 year ago

Anyone know a source for the long screws and cupped washers that secure the apron to the playfield?

#3185 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

do you know where I can get all the parts for that? Pretty much think I need the entire mechs for both flippers?

Here’s the bushing:

As for the shorter bat shaft, I’m not sure why that truly matters if the shaft just sticks through the bushing a 1/4” or so more. Replacement flippers don’t have the notch cut out for a specific height.

2 weeks later
#3295 1 year ago

I replaced a bunch of the carriage bolts with t-nuts and 2” post studs from PBL on one of my F2K’s. No issue on either 1” or 1-3/16” posts.

1 week later
#3341 1 year ago

How are those rails different than the Bally rails PBL has carried for a while?

1 month later
#3482 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I don't have time today, but its a couple of days I can put up a pic showing how it needs to be modded.
Now I am thinking that maybe Kerry at Mantis could tool up and make some of the classic Stern kicker arms to sell. I'll haver to ask him. Technically, I think he could do it but I don't know if there would be enough demand.

Looks like you already did a while back cottonm4! https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-1980-sterns-quicksilver-stargazer-seawitch/page/18#post-4798194

That said, I'd maybe be interested in some reproductions from Kerry depending on the price. I had to shoehorn a Bally arm into my Trident after one of my sling arms literally shattered in 3 places at once. It wasn't an easy fit nor ideal -- works though.

#3487 1 year ago

I’d probably be in for at least 4, maybe a couple more depending on the price. Would it make sense to have them remade to fit the existing brackets without having to do modifications (aside from the pf holes)?

2 weeks later
#3619 1 year ago

I can confirm I’ve got them on Trident, Hot Hand, and Wild Fyre for the MPU100 contingent. Can anyone confirm if they go back as far as Chicago Coin?

I’m pretty much in line with everyone on that pricing. $25 would be too much though. Same reason I can’t justify those Swinks repro plastic pop rings. Can’t someone PLEASE do those cheaper?

1 week later
#3703 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

The Dracula I bought had the button style. The Hot Hand I bought had the later slotted style. I think Trident has the earlier button style.

Possible that some do but my Trident (owned for nearly 20 years) has the slotted style, as does my Hot Hand parts game.

#3708 1 year ago

Can someone tell me what the heck I'm doing wrong? I don't have full access to the game right now, it's with my brother pinball_ric but I've rebuilt one of pop bumpers on my Trident twice in the last year and the metal ring plungers keep binding. This is the second, separate mech doing it (pulled and rebuilt from a parts game). These are the old style metal base assemblies.

Pertinent parts like the little plastic spacers, the base, etc that aren't readily replaceable were sonic cleaned and reused but the coil plunger, springs, switch, spoon, yokes (both), and stop were all replaced. This second go-around I decided to buff out the original metal ring since I noticed replacements were a hair larger, preventing me from being able to pass the ring through the playfield like the originals with the removeable legs. I thought maybe that was the problem.

Everything moved clean and easy prior to installing but it started binding again after 50-100 games. Anyone have any tips?

3 weeks later
#3759 1 year ago
Quoted from RoyGBev:

My Hot Hand's slingshot fiber link is broken. I thought a Bally plunger/link (left part in the pic) would work but it's too short and the hole in the fiber link is too small (looks like 3/16" diameter on Bally, 1/4" on Stern). Who if anyone has this part? Prefer the plunger and link as one unit but in a pinch I'll replace the roll pin and link.
[quoted image]

I just replaced some with this from PBL: https://www.pinballlife.com/slingshotballshooter-plunger-and-link-2-18-plunger.html

2 weeks later
#3850 1 year ago

Speaking of switch contacts, anyone have a tip on replacing them on a spinner switch?

#3853 1 year ago

I should’ve mentioned I have lots of contacts and heavy switch blades I’ve bought from Steve, however he’s out of light switch blades for me to make new ones. Anyone have tips of replacing the contacts on old switch blades without damaging the blade in the process of removing the old contacts?

3 weeks later
#3978 1 year ago

What sizes are the lane guides on Galaxy? I can’t match the part numbers in the manual to anything.

#3980 1 year ago

Thanks! I didn’t know if I should be measuring the total length of the lane or the post hole lengths.

2 weeks later
#4108 1 year ago

Here’s how the memory targets work. I took this video because of an issue I was having with one of my targets dropping at the start of games. Turned out to be a transistor blown on the driver board, iirc.

1 week later
#4179 1 year ago

Anyone know the part number to order from Pinball Resource for a replacement spinner actuator? Also, does anyone make replacement spinner switches?

#4182 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

This should help you out with info.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Right, but the specific part number(s) are what I’m asking. Since these are substitute “Gottlieb” parts, I can’t reference the Stern numbers. I generally try to approach PBR orders with all my ducks in a row and I want to end up with quality spinners when I’m done.

#4185 1 year ago

I should've been clearer that I knew people ordered GTB parts as replacements but I wasn't sure which GTB part numbers were the best substitutes. Thanks for the tips, guys. And for the expectation about having to cut/bend the actuator to shape.

2 weeks later
#4241 1 year ago

Any Hot Hand owners want to trade spinners? I hate to decal over this one since it’s in pretty darn good shape but I don’t need this design. NFS, Stern equivalent trade only.

39454A41-6B45-4F7A-BD4C-C80C647BBF70 (resized).jpegE532CF55-A016-408C-9F48-22BC07162778 (resized).jpeg
#4295 1 year ago


Here’s where cottonm4 posted the image if any photoshop-inclined person wants to take a look. Unfortunately I’m also not that person.

#4308 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

In case you missed it. Nine Ball reproduction play fields are now available.
But a play field and a set of matched plastics are priced at 949.00 Euros. with the current exchange rate of .82 dollars to 1 Euro, that is a bit of change for spend. But I guess we wait for Mirco to put the on sale on pinside and see the dollar price.

You can buy it in USD through Pinside: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1042-mircoplayfields/04587-nine-ball-playfield

#4327 1 year ago

I’m surprised no one has shared this news in here yet: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-replacement-for-vsu-100-speech-board

#4334 1 year ago

I know I have seen a guide someone’s posted before but I can’t seem to find it again. Can anyone please share tips on properly adjusting spinners? I cleaned up my F2K spinners and now they won’t sit level. What’d I screw up?

#4336 1 year ago

Photo of each with the underside shown as well. Obviously I’m having trouble with the hook on the right spinner (how do I fix this? Can’t get it to stop getting caught!) but what the heck is going on with the left? The game is set steep but not THAT steep (6.2)

41581598-C5A3-44B1-89BB-DE2E68EABC26 (resized).jpeg45346499-FB07-4D97-A16A-C8C238CFC80D (resized).jpeg
#4357 1 year ago

Well one successful spinner redone. Thanks TractorDoc for the decal upgrade!

#4361 1 year ago

Well this is an unexpected bummer. I bought a shooter rod from Pinball Life and didn't realize Stern shooter rods are longer than the repros. Not long enough to reach the ball.

Screen Shot 2020-12-21 at 3.49.03 PM (resized).png
2 weeks later
#4379 1 year ago

Since HoakyPoaky linked it to the Quicksilver he’s building, I’m assuming he needs the playfield saucer mech and not the outhole mech since QS used ball trough mech that mounts under the apron and not the saucer style. Added confusion from the mech in that drawing being the old style saucer mech used on games like Wild Fyre, not the style used on QS.

Am I on the right track, HoakyPoaky ? Is this the one?
7B22A434-169B-4692-8E84-54C1AC45E43E (resized).jpeg

#4385 1 year ago

They switched to the red plastic saucer for Magic and every game (that either had a saucer or multiball) has that style. That eBay listing is correct but overpriced, it's not a super uncommon part. There were 3 or 4 of them used on Lightning alone. I think Gottlieb parts do work in a pinch. If woody76 doesn't have one I can check the parts I actually got from him since they were Big Game parts.

#4393 1 year ago

I was able to get this piece special ordered by emailing Margaret at Pinball Life. They weren’t selling the full assembly at the time (early in COVID lockdown, which was fine since I have a good number of coils already) but maybe she’ll still sell them separately if you ask.

772991E8-8329-443D-B961-28D3402C40EE (resized).jpeg
#4395 1 year ago

I’m fairly certain they’re the same with the only difference being the color. I vaguely remember I had to use coil stops from PBL instead of the “classic stern” brass coil stops. Otherwise I don’t see any difference between the originals on my F2K.

PBL doesn’t have the correct opaque yellow mushroom pop caps, but Marco and PBR do.

#4444 1 year ago

I'd be all over a Trident playfield, but again, the whole print-ready art problem.

#4488 1 year ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

So I found the saucer kickout mech , but now I’m trying to find a replacement for the saucer switch. Old part number is SW-467.
Would this work as a replacement? It doesn’t have the adjustment bar though.
And does anyone know the replacement switch used in the drop target assemblies....the switches that mount on the back of the assembly, not on the bottom.

Did you get your answer on this HoakyPoaky? A regular old 3-lug switch is what I used but you do need a spacer to have it sit right on the saucer: https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-slingshot-score-switch.html?Category_Code=

The spacers are NLA but could very easily be 3D printed. Same spacers used on spinner switches.

Screen Shot 2021-01-15 at 2.31.52 PM (resized).png
#4516 1 year ago
Quoted from bluespin:

I think all mpu100 pins used the same screw type bar, and all mpu200 pins used the slot type, but someone else can confirm this.

Just for posterity, I think they started using the slotted style on Trident and everything after.

#4519 1 year ago

Just got my scratch build QS powered up and flipping! Got some strange behavior though. The “U” rollover seems to activate at the start of every ball automatically. There’s plenty of gap in the switch and it even still scores when a ball rolls over.

My spinners seem iffy too. The right spinner will activate with any flip of the flippers (gap seems reasonably fine when the pf is lifted) and the left spinner doesn’t activate at all. Finding new spinner switches has proved difficult and so they’re old switches I’ve cleaned with a crisp dollar bill. I’d say the issue is the contacts but I can still get some continuity with a multimeter (though not as reliably as a new switch, of course), so I’m kinda wondering if it’s something else.

Lastly the left spinner lamp is locked on.

I’ve got a Weebly MPU and lamp board in the game. Anyone got recommendations on what I should poke around at?

Bonus pic of the Wild Fyre and how I found it on top of a rusty antique cooler in a screened-in patio in Texas.

77E0B4A9-D39F-46B1-BFB9-DD4EC11F137C (resized).jpegAF67F187-0F6B-4096-A675-3809D2DABFD9 (resized).jpeg0BC5BA91-CCCC-4374-8E8F-50F7492523E6 (resized).jpegC7D564C6-31C8-4F89-936F-C70D22B93E3B (resized).pngEEDD9806-6743-4147-A6DB-7C9614084BDF (resized).jpeg
#4521 1 year ago

Yeah... figured. I should note I can tell it’s activating in attract mode (dim / bright). Was curious since it’s a new board maybe it’d be something else.

#4527 1 year ago

Following up on my QS switch issues... simply some bad diodes. Swapped and working great now. Still some adjustments to get everything dialed in, but it's all there!

#4534 1 year ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Samples heading your way tomorrow. If they check ok, I'll have them on the website by Friday.

Hans made a dead-on perfect match for these, for you guys needing these important spacers. They’re the same on saucer and spinner switches.

Reproduction on the left in each pic.

0BC29286-25A8-4315-A390-033544EC0173 (resized).jpegA6AFBFF9-2425-4E58-8F01-EC788E2BB62E (resized).jpegAF325F70-0544-4099-83E1-B9C1FEDD0FA9 (resized).jpeg

1 week later
#4547 11 months ago

I’m curious if you’ll be able to get one of those spinner switches from PBR. I ordered 5 in December but only received what I was told were their last 2.

#4549 11 months ago

Do you have a source on lightweight blades? I had also tried that route in December but PBR says they're discontinued / NLA.

#4581 11 months ago

Since they're all essentially the same design cut to different lengths, I don't see any reason why wolffcub would have to only make two sizes. I could see this being valuable to home brewers too, who might want 5 or 6 drops, or even 2. It's an entirely doable process and just depends how "on demand" they're made vs mass produced. 20eyes remade some for himself by hand. I was missing a couple pieces on some 3-banks that were attached to a parts playfield, and thanks to his handy work, I was able to make them whole again. Those couple pieces he made me will go a long way in making my Star Gazer build a reality. He's expressed no interest in building entire assemblies for people and taking them to market, however.

All this said, I've got an older-style 5-bank out of Hot Hand that I'd like to convert to a memory bank, so I've got an agenda to the 5-bank conversation lol

pasted_image (resized).png
1 week later
#4633 11 months ago

Pretty sure I used Bally/Williams flipper extension springs when I rebuilt that style mech.


1 week later
#4698 10 months ago

Really the hardest thing to find is a reasonably priced donor game (OR just an old transformer since repro cabs are now available bare).

greatwichjohn makes the playfields and backglasses.

I’m making one out of a condemned Hot Hand soon. Not the “correct” transformer but for a 2-flipper game with a clear coated playfield I have no concerns about how fast it will play.

1 month later
#4804 9 months ago

Someone had made a post (very probably in a different thread) about replacing the wires in spinners. Anyone have that bookmarked by chance? It was to recreate a Nine Ball extended arm spinner specifically.

C83AFC95-7247-46AA-8983-910997329DF7 (resized).jpeg
#4807 9 months ago

Thanks hisokajp, that second thread was the one I was thinking of!

#4827 9 months ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Could use a quick piece of advice.
I've got a customer who ordered a start button in blue, but I don't have any on-hand and need to order it. I don't know if he needs a light blue, a dark blue, or a medium blue. Unfortunately, multiple email attempts have no response. I'd like to get material on order so that I can ship.
You guys know colors on these games better than me. Which should I go with for him? Lighter, Darker, or Medium?
I don't know which specific game it's for.

My best GUESS is this person wants to match the credit button sticker color? Maybe F2K blue? As far as I know, the buttons were always white.

#4835 9 months ago

Send TractorDoc a message about the decals. I just ordered some from him and he mentioned having variations on the yellow spinners.

#4841 9 months ago

They’re both clear decals, the unused one just has a backing on it still.

I believe the one you have on there is “correct” (and personally I think is the better of the two designs anyway)

#4855 9 months ago

The Marco logo decals are perfectly serviceable. I did a side-by-side comparison of ones from Pinball Rescue and noticed some font kerning differences (PR’s were marginally better, fwiw) but the print qualities were pretty similar. Marco’s matte credit button decals are shit though.

1 week later
#4872 8 months ago

I’m ordering a few final things from Pinball Rescue right now. I’ve got a few extra of the credit button decals in my list. Happy to hook people up with some at cost.

#4881 8 months ago

I spent HOURS (and I mean HOURSSSSSSS) getting my F2K spinners tuned in. I have no tips other than godspeed. Also yes, don't overtighten your bracket.

#4882 8 months ago

Four playfields? I guess I don't have enough projects afterall. Well, I guess the Big Game playfield is out being restored right now, so we're actually kinda even.

2021-04-26 (resized).jpeg

#4894 8 months ago

It's official, we're all nuts.

#4905 8 months ago

Congrats on breaking a bad and costly habit cottonm4. Similarly, I quit my rather wasteful drinking "hobby" (some call it alcoholism) about 5.5 years ago. Sobriety saves me ~$4-5k per year that just goes back in to fueling my pin habit.

1 week later
#5047 8 months ago
Quoted from msarac:

So my donor game for QS was an mpu-100 with the 16B-3 transformer, and unsurprisingly the flippers are weak. I want to borrow this 16B-6 setup from my Meteor to see how it plays with the more powerful transformer.
I have wires that will reach into the cabinet for the 3 jacks, so am I correct in thinking that as long as I make sure the rectifier and transformer have a ground connection, I won't blow anything up? That relay (I think that's to flash the GI?) won't cause any issues in QS? Knockers are on different wires but I'll just disconnect the current one in the cab anyway.
Am I good to go?[quoted image]

I've done this same test and yes, just ground everything and you'll be OK. Withholding my opinion until you test.

Whats up with that relay on the board though?

#5050 8 months ago

Interesting. Not present on my Galaxy, and I didn't see it on the IPDB Meteor photo set. the Meteors in my "collection" I haven't really cracked open the pandora's box to see what lies within...

Conversion material on this one for sure.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image2 (resized).png
#5051 8 months ago


Hm, well there it is on Galaxy on IPDB. Now that I think of it, I think there is a butt splice in that harness. I bet it was removed at one point. Good to know.

#5078 8 months ago

I think my scratch built QS is having some sympathy pains. Boots up just fine but when I start a game it goes absolutely apeshit. Multiple sounds at once and scoring hundreds of thousands of points a second on the display. Playfield fuse blew out too, so no coils.

Full disclosure I had the playfield lifted to adjust the flipper spring and investigate why the 10 point switches in the center stopped registering even though they’re gapped decently and won’t register even when closed by hand. I guess that issue has to wait now.

#5081 8 months ago

Likely not any of those issues; I've had it playing fine since January, with all brand new switches. I'm going to put in an Alltek SDB tonight and see if I get any faults thrown on any coils. Currently I have all Weebly boards in there.

#5083 8 months ago

Thanks, I'll give that a shot! The way things were going haywire seemed unlike a stuck switch or anything, since stuck switches don't register on SEI games.

#5086 8 months ago

If a switch is stuck closed, it’s not going to repeatedly score endlessly.

Quoted from play_pinball:

Multiple sounds at once and scoring hundreds of thousands of points a second on the display.

I shut the game off quickly after it went nuts but I watched the “score” climb up to about 500,000 points in the 3 seconds it took me to get my hand on the power switch.

Didnt have time to mess with it tonight unfortunately, but it does sound like it could have been data corruption. Not sure why or how that could have happened though.

#5088 8 months ago

Thanks slochar. I did have an issue with my 3-bank when I first powered the game on (after completing my build). I'll start by looking there again.

The playfield fuse had blown, so none of the coils were resetting. I'm going to swap in the Alltek SDB and see if the LEDs indicate any faulty coils. Just gotta find time to get in there between work and other things.

Another odd thing I noticed and may be worth mentioning -- the "C" insert had lit, but the switch was not closed.

#5096 8 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Thanks slochar. I did have an issue with my 3-bank when I first powered the game on (after completing my build). I'll start by looking there again.
The playfield fuse had blown, so none of the coils were resetting. I'm going to swap in the Alltek SDB and see if the LEDs indicate any faulty coils. Just gotta find time to get in there between work and other things.
Another odd thing I noticed and may be worth mentioning -- the "C" insert had lit, but the switch was not closed.

Did the memory wipe and I swapped in the Alltek SDB, not seeing any coil faults but the switch matrix is still whacked out. If a drop target is down, it’ll score those incessantly. If they’re all up, Q and C both(?) seem to score incessantly (despite being gapped, best I can tell). Still blowing the pf fuse for some reason. Here’s a video with the drops down and the boards showing so you can see what coils are trying to fire (looks like the 3-bank is trying but the pf fuse blew again… and it was my last one).

#5100 7 months ago

The drops are not resetting because the pf fuse is blowing. I thought the Alltek SDB was supposed to have overcurrent protection to prevent faulty coils from doing damage, while also telling you which coil is bad via the LEDs. My best assumption is the B-27 2300 coil on the 3-bank is fubar but I'm a complete maroon when it comes to ohm testing a coil.

slochar Here's the switch matrix with the two switches that are clearly registering while open. All the switches in this game (except, I think, the 4 on the 4-bank) are brand new with new diodes and new ceramic capacitors (I realize this does not mean one didn't just give up the ghost). As mentioned, I was adjusting a flipper and I was investigating why the 10-point switches in the center were not registering (they get continuity in the chain of 10-point switches and the other 10-point switches were still activating). Still not sure what is happening with that issue.

The only thing I can think is I built up one of the LISY 7-digit displays (https://lisy.dev/display.html) and tested it in the Player 2, but it was missing the dimmer pot on the board, so it didn't work. I cannot recall if I played any more games after swapping my UNO board back in. I know it's not seen in that video but the displays are still working and I wouldn't assume anything from the display power would zip through and fry a coil somehow, right?

Quicksilver Switch Matrix

#5102 7 months ago

I wish I had. I don't even have the supplies to do so. I keep asking my brother for advice on what to order and haven't been able to get it done yet. Mouser & GPE are daunting to me.

#5110 7 months ago

Wish I could dig more in tonight but Austin’s annual Memorial Day weekend “storm of the century” has knocked out my power for the last few hours.

#5116 7 months ago

Finally following up on my Quicksilver. I unplugged the switch matrix from the MPU and desoldered the 3-bank drop reset coil. The replacement pf fuse did not pop and none of the switch craziness is happening.

#5119 7 months ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

definitely some craziness/short going on there. Do you have spare coil know good coil to use for troubleshooting? Testing for resistance and their diode as well.

So I ohm tested the coil and it was ok. Hooked it back in with the switch matrix still unplugged. Started a game without issue. Then ran through coil test, again without issue. PF fuse isn’t blowing when the switches are disconnected.

I assume it’s a bad diode on a switch but why would the pf fuse pop?

#5122 7 months ago

So how do I run that advanced switch matrix test you mentioned a few days ago slochar ? I’m not seeing it: https://nvram.weebly.com/mpu.html

I assume I’ll want to pull the pf fuse, hook the switch matrix back in, and run through the switches?

#5124 7 months ago

Thanks slochar! I’m getting a slightly different looking result but maybe that has to do with running it in QS instead of Big Game? Nothing displays on the credit display but I’m getting 17 flashing on all the others. Curious though that it does NOT cycle through other closed switches. If I hold in a target, it’ll switch and only flash that specific target number (e.g. only flashing 12 until I let go and then it goes back to 17). Additionally, if I drop ANY of the drop targets, they do not register, which leads me to believe they’re already reading as “closed” since if I close any others it will display a new number but no others. Hopefully that assumption makes sense, but I’m not sure what this leads me to. Also what is switch 17?

#5126 7 months ago

No, when I boot I get none of the typical Stern booting sounds or anything on the displays (until it goes to “00” on all the score displays). It does boot up faster than normal so I assumed the sounds missing was a result of the new rom. The board is Rev. 17, January 2020 but I don’t see on Weebly’s site there how to determine which Rev that is, since it goes from Nov 2019 to June 2020. Neither has your Big Game rom unfortunately. I do have an mpu I JUST ordered but it’s not here right now. I’ll have to try it later this week.

I totally understand the intent of showing the switches closed from lowest to highest but per my video I’m only really seeing one flash at a time. Anyways, switch back to the QS rom, I’m seeing 17 and 20, but there’s still many switches that don’t seem to respond when I press them.

#5127 7 months ago

80AF3E2B-2E9B-4EF3-9ECF-6BD852373B40 (resized).jpeg

Duh, look in the manual. Well makes sense these are the two that light up on the start of a game.

#5138 7 months ago

Happens occasionally on my QS. The ball hits the rail and bounces back into the trough; it’s not a weak coil issue.

#5142 7 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

No, when I boot I get none of the typical Stern booting sounds or anything on the displays (until it goes to “00” on all the score displays). It does boot up faster than normal so I assumed the sounds missing was a result of the new rom. The board is Rev. 17, January 2020 but I don’t see on Weebly’s site there how to determine which Rev that is, since it goes from Nov 2019 to June 2020. Neither has your Big Game rom unfortunately. I do have an mpu I JUST ordered but it’s not here right now. I’ll have to try it later this week.
I totally understand the intent of showing the switches closed from lowest to highest but per my video I’m only really seeing one flash at a time. Anyways, switch back to the QS rom, I’m seeing 17 and 20, but there’s still many switches that don’t seem to respond when I press them.

OK, so luckily I had ordered a new Weebly MPU for my Star Gazer just last week! Changed the dips, popped in that new one, and these are the switches I'm seeing in slochar's Big Game rom test menu. Interestingly enough, 17 is NOT one of them?!

Screen Shot 2021-06-01 at 7.50.49 PM (resized).png
1 week later
#5168 7 months ago

I was under some belief there was a 7-digit rom upgrade for Galaxy. Was I dreaming? Nothing on Weebly's board, but I see a "pinmame bootleg" on ipdb. Is that able to be burned and used in a game?

#5173 7 months ago

Looks like the English manual posted is missing a ton of info for Iron Maiden but the German manual on IPDB states all 4 flippers are J-25-475/34-4500

#5180 7 months ago

I’m still trying to figure out wtf is going on with my Quicksilver matrix short. It doesn’t blow the pf fuse when I have slochar’s Big Game roms running but when I switch back to QS roms, it blows. I’m thoroughly confused what’s happening with these switches. Seems to be somewhere with the outlanes and upper lanes. But why would they blow the fuse?? If I disconnect the switch matrix the coils work fine.

#5193 7 months ago

Thanks Quench. My brother pinball_ric has a oscope and we poked around at it the other day but I'm not sure what he did.

Why would the PF fuse only blow when running QS roms though? I can run them all through coil test when running slochar's Big Game roms.

#5208 7 months ago

Upgraded my Galaxy to 7-digit roms and LISY displays today. Certainly gonna be a hot day when I roll this game again haha.

#5217 7 months ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

Pretty cool. How much cost/labor is involved with this? I've seen these but i don't think they will work on galaxy or meteor:

The LISY displays are inexpensive but require a bit of footwork to buy all the parts.

The MPU in my Galaxy was already modified to be able to swap roms, so we burned the 7-digit “bootleg” roms from ipdb. Then I added a wire from J1 Pin 7 on the MPU to Pin 12 on all the displays (sans Credit/Ball in Play display).

It’s playing great and keeping accurate scoring in-game but for some reason isn’t storing high scores. Just shows “0” after any game”.

The instructions on upgrading the displays I found somewhat confusing as I think they’re specific to plasma upgrades but maybe which pin I added the display connections to is why I’m having those issues? Or possibly a corrupted rom burn? I’m hesitant to bug you again but… slochar?

#5224 7 months ago

That’s purely semantics cottonm4. Previously the game would roll over and lose your high score when you hit over 999,990. Now my max is 9,999,990.

Only problem is it’s not saving high scores. The mpu has nvram installed and it is saving settings. Even without cycling power, it never displays a high score.

When I lowered the replay value to essentially rig “free play”, there was some odd behavior in the digits. The 10s and 100s digits were blank and everything was displaying 2 spaces over. I wasn’t sure if this was from my wiring (though it all scores correctly when playing), from the hacked rom, or even a slightly corrupted rom burn.

#5228 7 months ago
Quoted from slochar:

The wire you add is only to the p1-p4 display connectors and it's just adding one signal to the displays. You would need it regardless of if you are using LED displays or plasmas. The stern 7 digit conversion roms from Oliver Kaegi (that's the source of the bootleg one on ipdb) do not require the same circuit as the bally ones for Mystic era - so an LED replacement would be a direct LED replacement for a 7 digit display, no setting jumpers for 6-to-7 digit conversions - that's not going to work correctly. If you are getting the correct scoring though that's probably ok.

So I did *not* need to add a wire to the those pins for an LED display upgrade? Oliver's instructions are what we referenced before doing the conversion but my assumption was the instructions were specific to plasma displays re: which pin to add the wire to (pin 11 vs 12). So are you saying if I upgrade Meteor using the 7-digit LED displays and 7-digit roms, I just drop them in as-is? Seems odd to me logically.

Quoted from slochar:

Clear the nvram by going into audits and zeroing each entry. Likely you have a random entry in the HSTD so you can never 'beat' it because blank digits are all greater than 9 and you can't score greater than 9. It would be a very specific rom burn error to cause something like you're describing almost to the point of being extremely unlikely.

We'll give this a shot. Thanks once again for advice.

#5230 7 months ago

Its not that I don’t understand, but it doesn’t change that you’re purely arguing semantics. 0 by itself is a philosophically debatable concept, but like it or not, 10 is a real number. I’m aware of the divide-by-10 roms existing, but if the playfield says something scores 500 points, I want it to score 500 points. And they are used in test and audit functions, if you wanna get real dirty about it

1 week later
#5271 7 months ago

I’m sure I have one around here. Send me a PM if you need it still.

1 week later
#5294 6 months ago

I recently dropped a Nine Ball scratch build into my perpetually long project list. Thanks to Jjsmooth for sending me a plastics set and the fact that I have all the needed drop mechs (one being an F2K bank that just needs 3 additional targets and relays added.). We just ordered the spinner bracket from Cliffy last week, so he should still have them.

I should have a couple extra of the single-drop mechs. The only other game they used them on is Pinball, which used 4 or 5 of them and I recently picked up a parts game. PM me if you're interested.

Now I can continue to think about how I didn't buy a fully populated Nine Ball playfield like 3 years ago for $250

#5295 6 months ago
Quoted from Madmax541:

Restoring coin door on Seawitch.
Where can I find replacement for light sockets & test switches located in coin door?
Lamp sockets are different then PF sockets


#5299 6 months ago

Some may call this sacrilege. Last year I picked up a cheap Galaxy that I'd intended to use for another scratch-build, but my dad ended up really falling for the game and started playing it non-stop. With considerable effort to keep the game alive, I decided to pop it into an old beat up Bally Supersonic cabinet I've had banging around in the garage for a few years. After repairing some water damage and general joinery issues, I was going to repaint it. Now, I hate hate HATE the factory cabinet artwork on Galaxy, so I was thrilled when I discovered the original prototype stencils, which are pretty incredible!

pasted_image (resized).png[note: not my picture]
I took some liberties with the cabinet colors as the original base white didn't fit the theme to me. Kinda hard to photograph but I think it looks pretty alright and the design is much better than the stars and text. I've since learned that you can actually get them through Pinball Pimp (not listed for some reason), but I hand cut these myself. As a result, many of the lines and bleed are... not great. One thing I did notice though is the they're seemingly a bit incomplete. There's a few spots where I added some additional lines and asteroids to better suit the layers. Anyway, this Galaxy lives on in a new shell.

pasted_image (resized).png

FWIW, the original cabinet needs a ton of work anyway. It's been cracked and put back together with ugly steel brackets around the corners. Fixing it will be a serious chore.

#5302 6 months ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

That looks SUPER RAD! I love it!
Might have to pursue that option when I get around to restoring mine. I had no idea!

Thanks — here’s the other side. It’s not my best repaint. I certainly recommend getting real stencils vs cutting them yourself after trying this out.

03374E42-EB41-416C-BC50-A320CD28C55E (resized).jpeg
#5315 6 months ago

I'd buy a set of Nine Ball metal guides from Kerry or djblouw. Dug myself one step deeper on that project buying the hard to find dead bumper cap this morning.

#5317 6 months ago

It was only $12 ppd, so not too much deeper in the hole

#5327 6 months ago

You can try filing a notch in the carriage bolt head underneath so you can put a screwdriver on it to hold it in place while you use a nut driver on the other end. I did that for a couple posts on my F2K but eventually got so fed up that I just took bolt cutters to the posts. I was replacing them with new ones anyways.

#5329 6 months ago

Strange, are you sure the carriage bolt isn't spinning? I thought the same thing on mine at first but it can be visually deceiving. If you can dremel the nut off without damaging the post, it should work but you'll likely grab the top of the post at some point.

#5330 6 months ago

Otherwise, Marco carries these faceted posts.

1 week later
#5359 6 months ago

CPR are acknowledged to not the buyer of John’s setup. No offense to bigguybbr (follow his Trident resto thread!) but I wouldn’t take any weight on his comment. That said, I don’t have any inside knowledge of CPR’s plans.

1 week later
#5398 5 months ago

I haven't found those for sale anywhere and I've hunted. Seems easy enough for Kerry's abilities. I'd be in on a couple more than likely.

2 weeks later
#5500 5 months ago

Must be Viper season. That's like 5 for sale in the last month.

#5501 5 months ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

No worries. I just ordered 4 Bally replacements from pinball life, so I’m going to swap all of mine out so they play the same. It just sucks that my new toy broke in the first week

You may have to remove the plastic head to fit it through the playfield. When one of my Trident sling arms shattered (in 3 places!) a few years ago, I put in one I pulled off a Bally Supersonic parts playfield. It was a PITA, but it works.

#5520 5 months ago

I wonder why I had such a difficult time fitting mine through the playfield. It was a few years ago and I was probably just doing something easy the hard way.

#5533 5 months ago

Anyone know the size and style name of the screws that hold the plastic pop ring assemblies together?

44580CFD-364D-4EB4-AEF8-28C4600D9018_1_105_c (resized).jpeg
#5539 5 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I wish I knew. I could use a couple myself. They are different.

I found they're called "cut tail" tapping screws. Now the question is, what size are these things? I can only find metric sizes for sale.

#5547 5 months ago
Quoted from kickabit:

The link just seems to just have M3 sized screws.
I measured M3.5x15mm on the screws I had which is an odd size.
You can find round head M3.5x14mm tapping screws here:
I think these would work fine or you could get a little longer with M3.5x16mm. The screws I have are pan head instead of round head like the ones from McMaster.

I found these at 3.5x16 ebay.com link: Ni Plated Phillips Pan Head Self Tapping Screws PT Cutting Tail M2 2 3 2 6 3 3 5

I can’t find either of my calipers because I’m a disorganized idiot but putting it up to a ruler I was seeing 16mm as the length. Since the shafts are hollow I’m sure that small of a variable is no big deal anyway.

#5549 5 months ago

Please let us know if you find them and they're a match.

#5573 5 months ago

Ooohh what do we have here?

3414CDC8-8AFC-40CB-8C79-C855AC211CE2 (resized).jpeg
#5575 5 months ago

Yes! A huge timesaver in my Cheetah scratch build, thanks to XPABLO for shipping this all the way from Argentina!

#5576 5 months ago

Also picked up a few of these puppies to satisfy the purists. Very happy they made the 5000 mile trip safely.

Screen Shot 2021-08-23 at 3.27.34 PM (resized).png
#5580 5 months ago

That I did. The shipping was already pretty hefty, figured it made sense to go ahead and grab what I could. I was pretty persistent contacting Pablo because I wasn’t going to let that harness slip away from me.

Now I can use a Stern/Chicago Coin EM that I have as a cabinet donor for another scratch build.

1 week later
#5607 4 months ago

If the pics from an old sale posting is evidence, the right four are the ones used?

3 weeks later
#5713 4 months ago

There's new playfields on the way from Greatwich's successors with corrected colors, supposedly very soon. I'm sure you could resell that one pretty easy.

#5714 4 months ago

Notwithstanding, if you do come up with color matched plastics I would be interested in buying a set.

1 week later
#5731 3 months ago

Almost got the kinks out of my Star Gazer scratch build. When the center-bank, center-drop target is dropped, the Virgo target goes nuts. I’ve swapped the diodes and caps on them and the other switches in the matrix seem ok. Anyone have a tip on what to look for?

#5732 3 months ago

Third diodes the charm, I guess. Swapped the virgo diode a second time and all seems golden there! Is it normal for the drop mechs to reset twice at the start of each ball? Seems odd.

#5734 3 months ago

I think I need to replace the trough switch with a stronger supported blade.

#5735 3 months ago

Well here it is!

#5736 3 months ago

In the gif you can notice the HSTD is a little funky. Displaying 0_0_0_0. Not sure what to address there. I’ve got a Weebly board in there. I do need to track down cottonm4’s posts about the credit display and swapping the wires around too.

#5741 3 months ago

Original spinners. I haven’t decided which way I want them to face, since it’s STAR Gazer after all

#5744 3 months ago

Thanks, I bet mine is green too. Yours was also a new harness from Shawn at Third Coast, right?

Yes, EVO brite caps in cool white. Wish they had a closer to match to Comet Sunlights as they’re noticeably bluer than the rest of the lighting. I have warm white EVOs I could try but I don’t think they’d look better.

1 week later
#5778 3 months ago

SB-100 rev-1 & 2 sound painful. Rev-3, the sounds in barakandl's video, have always sounded good to me. This makes me feel a hell of a lot better after selling my extra rev-3 board last year!

So now the question is, will the games released with Rev-1 & 2 boards have the "correct" sounds (like Wild Fyre, Lectronamo, etc) or are all of them these more pleasant Rev-3 tones that came in games like Trident & Hot Hand?

Personally, rev-3 all the way! Death to the others!

#5797 3 months ago

It's a GREAT game and does not come up very often. I think the longest-standing pin in my collection, over 20 years, and I have no plans to ever let it go. Feel like it's starting to get more attention with the arduino code update but I haven't done that since I think the original code is spot on.

#5835 88 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Here come the Nine Balls.

You ain’t kiddin!

This ones much more of a project than the $9k Nine Balls, but we’ll get there eventually!

#5838 88 days ago

Cab actually is actually pretty decent, I’ll probably leave it original. Seriously needs a new backglass however. I’ll wait for the CPR year end sale to grab one.

1 week later
#5887 80 days ago

I had an issue with a controlled drop on F2K that was related to a shorted transistor. At the start of each ball, the “4” target relay would pull open. I took a slow motion video to make sure that was the cause of the constant drop.


#5890 78 days ago

Actually, I think so! I just ordered one of these last week but I have not tested it yet. I don’t see any reason why it would not work though.


#5892 78 days ago

Holding it side by side my Big Game and F2K shooters (only ones accessible right now), that link is a pretty dead on match, with the only noticeable difference being the location of the inner spring e-clip slot. The knob is pretty much identical. And of course the length is right.

#5895 78 days ago

Looks like Marco sold out from the link I posted! I was worried that'd happen but didn't think it'd be so fast! They must've only had a few.

#5897 78 days ago

Yep, I swear I checked his site and it said out of stock but I think I misread. Looks like he has them, and per usual, cheaper. Oh well it was free shipping over $100 and my order ended up being like $100.29

#5900 78 days ago

Screen Shot 2021-11-05 at 5.56.53 PM (resized).png