(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).


By Mitch

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,359 posts
  • 196 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by treborlicec
  • Topic is favorited by 100 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 715 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_20191019_134829986 (resized).jpg
Capture (resized).PNG
IMG_20191020_174420 (resized).jpg
Stern_Galaxy_solenoids.pdf (PDF preview)
IMG_20191014_192539908 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191014_182530920 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191014_182350560 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191014_182221491 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191014_182645416 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191014_182756325 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191011_202109796 (resized).jpg
IMG_3771 (1) (resized).png
IMG_2100 (resized).JPG
IMG_2099 (resized).JPG
IMG_2098 (resized).JPG
IMG_2097 (resized).JPG

Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #227 Various gate tips. Posted by cottonm4 (1 year ago)

Post #269 Hi quality thoughts from Cotton about inlanes. Posted by cottonm4 (1 year ago)

Post #279 Playfield touch up tips. Posted by klr650 (1 year ago)

Post #309 Stern inserts suggestions. Posted by cottonm4 (1 year ago)

Post #310 Seawitch gate flap solution. Posted by frunch (1 year ago)

Post #1033 Bally drop targets on the classic stern, even mix and match. Posted by cottonm4 (8 months ago)

Post #1958 Star Gazer podcast episode link. Posted by DRDAVE (78 days ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider cottonm4.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

312 posts in this topic match your search for posts by cottonm4. You are on page 1 of 2.
#36 1 year ago

There are several Seawitches in the pinside markeplace archived ads that sold for above $2000.00

This nicely restored example in Florida sold for $4100.00.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/53668

#37 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

There are several Seawitches in the pinside markeplace archived ads that sold for above $2000.00
This nicely restored example in Florida sold for $4100.00.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/53668

Well, since Pinside will not let me edit my earlier post, I 'll just quote it.

There are several Seawitches in the pinside markeplace archived ads that sold for above $2000.00

This nicely restored example in Florida sold for $4100.00.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/53668

#83 1 year ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

How come nobody ever chimes in with "I got a stargazer, and it's a real piece of shit?"

Human nature? All those who play the reincarnation game are always reincarnated from George Washington or Napoleon Bonaparte. Or some other noted historical figure. Nobody is ever reincarnated from the stable boy who shoveled shit all day long.

#85 1 year ago
Quoted from too-many-pins:

This is a logical reply to original post. Why can't a dozen people just answer a simple question here on Pinside? A good many of my friends involved in the hobby no longer visit pinside because of the direction it is headed. Most feel pinside has become a total waste of time and I am really starting to agree.

138 pinsiders own Seawitch.

56 pinsiders own Quicksilver

62 pinsiders own Star Gazer

It might take awhile to scare up a dozen to make a logical reply.

I gave $1100.00 for my Seawitch in March 2016. It had new rectifier board (installed), new drop targets(not installed), a decent back glass, and a blown out play field. And it needed shopped badly.

But it seems prices have been trending up since 2016. I do not consider $1100.00 to be a "current" price in today's market.

I have only been here about 3 years. What did pinside used to be like? What did I miss?

#117 1 year ago
Quoted from terrapinmark:[quoted image][quoted image]

To Terrapinmark.

"Hi Joe, I am the guy who bought the game from you/Mike F. for $2K. It is getting a high end restore currently. Will be finished in about a month. Interestingly (I live in Ohio now) I grew up in the Maryland/Northern Virginia area. The game you sold had a Time Out Amusements sticker in the cabinet. This was the VERY machine I used to play as a teenager at Springfield Mall Time Out Amusements arcade. Here is your former game. Guess who put the "magnetic bumper sticker" on the game. LOL"

Your Star Gazer play field looks interesting. I have some questions. I'd like to talk with you about the color of your play field. John Greatwich, who is responsible for making the repro Star Gazer play field took a lot of heat for the color of his repro play fields.

First, let me attach some pics from a Star Gazer that lives in Dallas and was at the TPF festival. The color on this play field is a deep dark blue with matches the deep dark blue of the plastics. The apron is also a deep dark blue color. They all match.

IMG_3494 (resized).JPG

IMG_3518 (resized).JPGIMG_3535 (resized).JPGIMG_3569 (resized).JPG

Next, borrowing your pictures, the blue on your play field looks like it is a closer match to the blue of Greatwich's repros. Your apron also looks to be of a lighter color of blue that more closely matches the color of the 10 pointed star in mid-play field.

72897471b91115139dc1a79920873bceb8fc02c3.png (resized).jpg

618bea1f58e432818f267eaed5d464645021b48e.png (resized).jpg

Screen Shot 2018-09-18 at 8.40.36 AM (resized).png

Anyway, yours seems to more closely match the color of the Greatwich repros. Maybe it is the lighting. Maybe it is my computer. But I was wondering if you might have some other pictures of your Star Gazer in different lighting conditions?

Here are a couple of other pics showing different apron colors.

36540274941_fa0cfba940_b (resized).jpg

Screen Shot 2018-09-18 at 8.50.40 AM (resized).png

I'm building a Star Gazer with a Greatwich play field and this color biz has me scratching my head. Any light you can shed will be appreciated.

Thank you.

OP: Apologies for hijacking your thread.

#140 1 year ago

EDIT: I spoke too soon.

#141 1 year ago
Quoted from terrapinmark:

No apology needed. You aren't hijacking my thread. We are part of the Classic Stern family. Very interestingly I am friends with Bill Morrison who you probably know. We talked at length about the differences in color. I am putting a greatwich play field in my game. It is noticeable lighter as you mentioned. However, the current play field would require a ton of work. (I already had the reproduction). Anything you may see with my original play field would be the lightning as it is definitely darker. I don't have a good picture of them side by side. Here are some additional pictures. We did shoot a thin layer of additional clear on the reproduction. [quoted image][quoted image]

I know this has been brought up before but when does it stop being a restoration and become a new build?

You have an original back glass. I have a repro.

You have original plastics.. I have repro.

You will need repro pop caps as do I.

You are going to install a repro play field, as am I.

You have an original Stern cabinet, as do I. Except my cab is a sacrifice Dracula which is an original Stern cabinet.

All play field parts will be shopped and replaced. New flippers. New coil stops. etc.

When does your original SG become a builder? Repro play field + repro back glass + repro pop caps + repro plastics.

And then say you sell your old worn play field to someone who will restore it and put it back together. What will that guy have?

Which machine will have the most value? The one that looks closest to original? Or, say one with highly polished stainless lock down bar and polished rails as opposed to a machine with the rails and lock bar regrained to look original?

Obviously, the documented mint condition unmolested pin would be worth more than all of the others but by how much?

Let me dial my shoe phone. I'll call Agent 99 and see if she has the answers

#152 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I need to find a cheetah to go with my big game. I’m sure I’ll be looking for a long time, if not, forever though. Never even hear it mentioned in casual conversation, let alone see one for sale.

There was a Cheetah up in Michigan that sold on Ebay not too long ago. It was rough. No back glass. But it had a blue cabinet instead of black. It looked like it would be a pretty pin when cleaned up.

I'd like to have a Cheetah but I have no more room.

#160 1 year ago

I'm a sound set junkie. Most of these classic Sterns we are discussing here have the sounds that jazz me. Big Game sound set was a hit from day one. Nine Ball has some cool sounds. Catacomb took a bit to grow on me. And there is Seawitch, screaming witch that she is. Dragonfist has a nice sound set. After living with these sounds it is hard for me to go back to chimes like Trident and Hot Hand.

If I had the room, I would like to have both an Ali and a Meteor. But both pins, especially Meteor, has that humming sound that drives me nuts. With Meteor I guess it is supposed to be a Meteor crashing into Earth. I know Meteor looks like a blast to play but that humming....

Bally's sounds were..ahh... interesting, I suppose. Look at this rare 326 unit Bally Voltan. Beautiful game. But what is it with those Bally sounds? They make a great looking pin seem mediocre.

And Gottlieb had a catalog of strange sounds that I just cannot wrap myself around. Here is Genie. Beautiful game to look at but those sounds...

#173 1 year ago
Quoted from DRDAVE:

Stern cime games are few: Memory Lane, Stars, Pinball, Stingray.

OK. My operator friend who sold of most of his pins picked up a Memory Lane. He set it up with a quarter per play. I'll have to go play it.

#174 1 year ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

I will just set this right here....
[quoted image][quoted image]

Which plays better? Star Gazer or Fathom?

There is a Fathom at Cactus Jack's. Maybe they don't have it set steep enough but it does nothing for me. It is a beautiful pin but from the first moment that mealy mouthed voice says "Fathom" and that rhythmic sound starts I start losing the thrill of the chase. I'd rather play Interflip Dragon.

#181 1 year ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Star Gazer all day, every day.
Interflip Dragon is a great game....brutal as hell.

You got that right. It looks like a pushover. It isn't.

#201 1 year ago
Quoted from DRDAVE:

What impedes that right orbit shot is that thin flexible metal "gate". I've seen someone mod it to a curved metal rod gate with spring instead as the original was missing. I think it helped that shot a lot.

I don't have any problem with attacking that right orbit shot and have read of some using that Lightning flipper. I use those Williams style narrow-nose aluminum flippers from Pinball Life. It is a hard shot to hit.

My problem with that metal gate is that it is not built correctly, IMO. What I noticed when I first got my Seawitch is when I made the left hand orbit and that ball would be traveling clockwise, when it hit the metal gate the gate would flex due to not enough tension and this flex would mess with ball trajectory and maybe I could hit the ball with the right upper flipper and maybe I could not.

I have thought about making a curved spring loaded gate of which you speak. I have not got that far with figuring out what kind of torsion spring be suitable. But I have some ideas. Just no time to chase the engineering.

What I have done is make a gate from .030 polycarbonate (Lexan) and I made the gate a little longer. This extra length allows me to put a little more tension on the gate. There is not so much tension that ball cannot leave the shooter lane but there is enough tension that the gate does not deflect with a clockwise orbit shot.

The result is the ball will come into range of that upper right flipper a lot more. This gives me a good shot setup to go for a double orbit. I get quite a few double orbits, which is thrill, and I even got a triple orbit one time.

I sent my gate to Kerry Stair with the proposal that he was going to tool up and make some gates with a longer metal piece. But when he learned Cliffy was already making the gates he backed away.

While my poly gate works well, it is still a prototype and looks crappy.

#206 1 year ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Truth be told, my favorite Bally game is my Mr/MS Pac-man. Every other single Mr/Ms I have ever played was absolute crap. Lamps/switches not working, flippers not aligned, ect. Yeah, I know. Flame away.

I see no reason to flame this. Last year at TPF I got to play a POTC that a vendor had for sale. I was not impressed. A while later, or maybe even the next day, I located another POTC on the floor. It was a completely different experience and was an absolute blast to play because who ever owned it knew how to set it up.

People rave about Taxi. The two I got to play at TPF were crap. Blackout? Crap--leaned to the left. Black Hole? Crap--crappy flippers. I got to finally stand behind a Joker Poker this year; I think the guy had it set on a 2% slope; It was pathetic.

Maybe if Cactus Jacks would steepen the slope on their Fathom I might like it better. Maybe. I don't know. Everybody raves about Eight Ball Deluxe. CJs has a nice EBD. It's OK, but it is not something I lust for. Maybe because it is so brutal. I don't know. I always play it when I stop at CJs and as I get a little better with it I like it a little bit better. But the only reason I would own an EBD is if I could sell it and make some money.

And as I say all of this, I have to allow that it is different when you are in a shop getting your pockets emptied. It has a different flavor than when you are at home hitting that free play start button like a lab rat.

#208 1 year ago
Quoted from Dr_Dude:

I purchased Cliff's replacement right-orbit flap and I can attest that if properly installed (may require a little bending to get it just right) the right-orbit shot becomes much_ more reliable and fun. Honestly, having a very challenging, hard-to-achieve shot is often more fun than something easy. Anyways, my Seawitch as currently setup is quite a lot of fun. Just wish it had Quicksilver's bonus count-down and whistle on max-bonus.

I have a Cliffy gate, too. I tweaked it. I put a reverse curve on. It helped. All I'm saying is that I think that metal strip needs to be about one inch longer to provide a little more tension.

#209 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Seawitch used to be on my list but I found the right spinner shot more frustrating, than fun. It just doesn't line up in a satisfying way.
Fun game but I rate lots of others higher.

I tell you this: Just like Catacomb, the points are in those drop targets. But at least Seawitch will give you good action if you hit that spinner. With Catacomb, that spinner lane can be suicide.

But, yeah, I rate other games higher than Seawitch. My dark horse has been this Catacomb. The more I play it the more I want to play it. I can't wait for you to get yours up and running so we can talk about it.

#227 1 year ago
Quoted from DRDAVE:

Got a picture of how you have your Cliffy reverse curve set up in the game?
Thinking I need to get this for my Seawitches.
Yes my Classic Sterns are like rabbits. They multiply. =)

I cannot show you the Cliffy gate. It is living somewhere in the bottom of the cab. I can show you the poly gate I made and offer a couple of theories.

Fair disclosure: I tried the Cliffy and could not get it to work to my satisfaction so I made the poly gate. This pic of my poly gate will show you that I only have one screw holding it in place. I use one screw only so I could "pivot" the base of the gate in an attempt to be able to adjust the tension.

With the Cliffy, I used one screw only and rotated the Cliffy counter-clockwise and then massaged the gate in a reverse curve back towards the shooter rail. The reverse curve is a play on why the engineers built the Boulder Dam with a reverse curve i.e. all the water in the world is not going to push that dam in. (example: roll up a playing card between your thumb and middle finger and try to push that curve in). The reverse curve helped with the Cliffy but the metal strip was just not long enough to do the job.

IMG_8514 (resized).JPG

Here is the other end of my poly gate. It is ugly. It is not refined. Once I got working satisfactorily I moved on to other things---like chasing more Sterns Seawitch was my 2nd.

I wanted to make my gate longer but refrained for the following reason: You will notice that the front edge of my poly gate stops just at the point where the rail and the ball guide meet. If I had made the gate longer and pushed it father up the ball guide I think I could have gotten the better tension I was looking for but the the problem is the gate is .030" thick sitting with an "in the wind" condition meaning that there is a .030" step that the ball will hit every time it makes a clockwise move in the orbit. I figured a .030" interference would disturb the ball trajectory and I made my gate shorter than I wanted.

Also, my gate is longer than the Cliffy. The Cliffy sits farther back ( towards the player) on the shooter rail and there was just no working room to get more tension.

IMG_8513 (resized).JPG

With the Cliffy gate having much thinner metal, pushing farther up on the ball guide would not be an issue for ball trajectory. My thinking is that with a longer piece of metal you can bend and tweak that gate to give you the right amount of tension to hold the gate solid when the ball hits but yet not so much tension that the ball is trapped in the shooter lane.

You mentioned using a spring. I was thinking using a thicker piece of poly that would be rigid and bonding that to a thinner piece of material. The thin piece could act as the hinge while the rigid piece would maintain position and not flex with ball impact.

As I said, mine is ugly, but it does the job. It directs the ball back to the flipper and makes possible a lot of double orbit shots . When I get ready to restore Seawitch I will need to deal with this.

IMG_8511 (resized).JPG

IMG_8512 (resized).JPG

You asked the time. I told you how to build a clock. I hope this helps.

#255 1 year ago
Quoted from statictrance:

*ahem* - to the dude that just bought with a rough PF - Seawitch playfields just went up to CPR for preorder. It's in the measuring interest/boutique area - but I'm sure a +1 wouldn't hurt it
https://classicplayfields.com/preorders/

I did a preorder for a Catacomb. For Seawitch. I'll stick J. Greatwich.

#262 1 year ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Hey dont worry I like hearing prices from the past to. It's all good.

Oh yeah, I forgot this one. I bought my Catacomb in February 2017. There was one for sale in Oregon for $1800.00 with all new alltek boards. I was trying to work something up with this guy but timing got in the way.

At the same time a Catacomb came available it Florida. It cost a little more. I would have preferred the one in Oregon is it was a little cheaper and had those new boards but could not get an agreement set up. I had to pay $2050.00. But it is a nice one.

At the time, I thought I paid a little bit too much but they don't come around that often. I have been having a blast with it.

#269 1 year ago

Since we are all here and we all like the Stern's playing action, I can't be alone in craving the flipper action that comes from those nice long curved inlane guides that can shoot fast balls across the flippers in the blink of an eye. Or that real rare move where a ball will enter the left (or right) inlane, shoot across both flippers and exits out of the opposite inlane. You know what I'm talking about.

I used to work for a company that builds airplanes. I worked in the factory installing parts, driving rivets, painting, and inspecting airplanes. It is hard to believe that in the 21st Century that airplanes are hand built by humans. And when it comes to the human touch, people make mistakes. And screw things up on the assembly line. And these mistakes have to be fixed. The short story here is that no two airplanes are built just alike. And neither are pinball machines.
++++++++++++++++++++++

My little collection is all of these classic Sterns so I compare one to the other and make notes. And I see mistakes that were built in at the factory. One glaring mistake on my Big Game is that the right inlane ball guide was mis-located and sitting too far below the base curve of the flipper. So, when ever the ball was heading for the flipper it would be deflected and tossed out of reach of the flipper. The game was no fun to play. Stern did not care; The flaw was not enough to fix at the factory. The operator did not care. The game was taking in quarters. The player was either too drunk to care or put in a quarter or two and then walked away.

Now I come to my point in the post. My Seawitch and Catacomb play different than my Nine Ball. I'd like to compare notes with everybody else.

On Seawitch and Catacomb, many times a ball will roll up towards the top of the inlane and get sucked over into the outlane and drain because of that little rubber bumper. On Nine Ball it does not happen; The ball will travel upward but hit that rubber bumper and get pushed back toward the flipper.

I prefer the extra challenge Seawitch and Catacomb offer but before I start making mods to my Nine Ball I would like to see how other Nine Balls were built at the factory. Is my Nine Ball per blueprint or did someone screw it up on the assembly line?

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

This drawing should clear up why I am even writing about this in the first place. As you can clearly see, I am no artist; My apologies.

I have drawn the flippers, ball guides, and bumper posts for Catacomb and Nine Ball. If you look carefully at Catacomb, you will see that the ball guides are located inboard of the two bumper posts. This allows for that ball action where it rolls up the flipper and ball guide and gets sucked over into the outlane.

Now, look at Nine Ball. On my NB, the ball guides are located to the outside of the bump posts. On this pin, when the ball rolls up the ball guide, instead of the ball being at risk of getting sucked into the outlane, the bump post pushes it back towards the flipper. I prefer the ball action on my Catacomb and Seawitch.

I don't want to be making modifications for modifications sake. So, what I am wanting to know is this: Are the ball guides on my Nine Ball per blueprint? Are they located in the same position on your Nine Ball?

I guess the larger question would be: How are the ball guides located on your classic Stern? Are they inboard of those bump posts? Or are they outboard?

Thanks

BTW: Ali and Big Game do not have these bump posts from the factory.

inlanes (resized).jpg

#278 1 year ago
Quoted from klr650:

It was a restoration in progress (last summer). All the green was repainted (first white createx sprayed on really dry & coarse followed by green). Then I sanded it back to where the flecks of white had just started to show. I was going for the same overall shade of green but with more of a textured look. Now it sort of looks like the felt on a billiards table.

Got any pictures? I love show and tells. How did you get those nice round keylines?

#281 1 year ago
Quoted from klr650:

I used rub-on transfers as per drano. That's how I put the text back on as well. Here are some pics of the work in progress. In the first pic I have the new inserts installed and all the text and keylines have been painted over. In the second pic all the text and keylines have been added back on. Took a few extra layers of clear to bury the rub-on transfers but it worked out really well. I was originally trying to make a camo-style background but in the end...it was just green.
[quoted image][quoted image]

That looks very nice.

Got any before pics? Was it just a little ratty? Or did you bring one back from the dead?

#296 1 year ago

I'm told that Nugent is fairly lame. Your experience may differ.

Congrats on your Seawitch.

I went down to the laundry the other day and tossed in a few quarters in Memory Lane. It is a chime type pin. As I have mentioned earlier in this thread, I have gotten spoiled with the sound sets from Meteor on. Well, not so much Meteor with that humming sound, but all of the others have really ruined me for chimes.

That said, the Memory Lane was set up well. It played well. Everything worked. I have played it and I am happy. It does not have the stay and play hold on me.

#298 1 year ago
Quoted from klr650:

It had the usual flaming inserts and some chewed up art in the bonus area. There was also a bare wood ditch below the saucer. But pretty much normal wear for a Quicksilver.
I know the font for the yellow inserts is "Quicksilver" or "Neon Lights." I think the font on the apron is Helvetica and the font on the playfield should be Optima.[quoted image]

How did you repair the "bare wood ditch"? Mine has that problem, too.

#308 1 year ago
Quoted from klr650:

I added some extra clear to level out the ditch before the repainting.

So you did the art work. Cool. I wish I was an artist.

#309 1 year ago

Some thoughts/info on Stern inserts. I am getting ready to send my Quicksilver play field off to the restore guy. I have decided that I want to replace all of the inserts. Some inserts for the classic Sterns are available. Some are not.

Here are some things I found out.

A couple of pinsiders in another post advised me that the Stern style blue triangle inserts are not available and you have to use the blue triangle inserts from Pinball Life. These blue triangle inserts are also available at Pinball Resource.

Opaque red inserts are available from Pinball Resource, but not at Pinball Life.

Clear orange inserts without any starburst stuff are hard to find.

The old Sterns used a pink insert in some places. Pink inserts are impossible to find. But you can buy purple inserts from both Pinball Resource and Pinball Life. I have been fretting about the not-available pink for awhile now. But I decided to order a purple insert. I was pleasantly surprised. The purple look great.

Here is a pic. What do you think? The pink still in the play field is faded and (I assume ) nicotine stained. The pink to the lower left was salvaged from an old Dracula play field that I sanded clean. I was planning to use this salvaged pink insert until I got the purple insert. I think the purple is going to look fantastic.

I also need to decide if I want to replace the white 2X insert with a salvaged white insert or go with a nice shiny new white insert. This is a tougher decision for me.

IMG_8572 (resized).JPGIMG_8573 (resized).JPG

If you need to replace a yellow insert you may need to replace them all because the yellows that you can buy are a different shade of yellow. The one on the left is a salvaged yellow insert. The one on the right in new. You have to look closely to see the color difference.

IMG_8575 (resized).JPG

#311 1 year ago
Quoted from frunch:

Earlier in this thread there was a bit of discussion about the gate/flap at the end of the shooter lane on Seawitch, and it inspired me to try making my own 'upgrade' gate. I used a piece of piano wire and a spring. It works surprisingly well. It doesn't reject spinner/orbit shots like the metal flap, it actually works quite well for that shot now. I had also noticed on my game that plenty of plunges would get interfered with by the metal flap...not nearly as often with the new part. Only problem at this point is when the ball goes around the orbit from the left entrance, it hits the tip of the new gate on it's way around. Not a dealbreaker by any means. I'll probably leave it in and continue to experiment with it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I like this. Really like this. You solved my spring problem. Your problem of the ball hitting the new gate is easily solved by making an under cut in the rail so the tip can hide inside of the hole you make.

Next up would be to find the center point of the ball guide's arc and transfer that arc to your gate and it would be one big smooth circle straight to the flipper.

Bravo !!!

#313 1 year ago

You are in the science project phase of what you are working on. But you see the areas that need improvement. It does not get better than that.

I have two thoughts at the moment

1) your lower wire needs to be the same height as an inlane guide if it is not already at that height.

2) The spring....I am thinking maybe a longer spring and anchor it to the outside post the spinner rides on. That would hide it a little bit.

Lots of possibilities here.

It looks like a great prototype.

#314 1 year ago

Careful about shimming the ball guide to match your gate. If the ball guide is out to match your gate then you will have problems with ball slamming into that and you never will get a good launch.

#331 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

How did I miss it?

Do you really want to know

1 week later
#354 1 year ago
Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:

Stingray was my 2nd pin I ever bought. Still have it, still enjoy it.
Current line up of STERNS:
Trident
Big Game
Stingray
Dracula
Meteor
& Sea Witch is joining them tomorrow after I pick her up @ York.
Would love to have a Star Gazer, but am not the type of person to drop that much $ on one. Hoping that someday I can find a reasonable priced basket case that I can restore.
Also I could be talked into a Flight 2000 or a Nine Ball pretty easy.
I looked hard at buying a STARS at Allentown, but just couldn't pull the trigger. Just didn't do it for me......
Eventually I'd like to have as many early Sterns as I have early Bally SS's to even out the collection.

Of your Sterns, where do you rank your Big Game. Of your collection, where does your Big Game stand?

#360 1 year ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Since I have started this thread I've added 6 classic sterns to my collection.
I got freefall, flight 2000, meteor, seawitch, a nugent being shipped in and a quicksilver being shipped in.

la-fi-tn-confirmed-facebooks-19-billion-whatsa-001 (resized).jpg2FB0C9DE00000578-0-However_some_have_suggested_promo_guy_is_simply_an_actor_paid_fo-a-5_1451862139687 (resized).jpgimgres-1 (resized).jpgimages (resized).jpg

#375 1 year ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Wow that's crazy how did you manage to find those.

Brenna98 was in my town last week for business. He contacted me and was invited to come by and play my pins. We had good conversations about the pins we have and the pins we want. The subject of a group of pins that sold on Ebay came up.

Two years ago there was an Ebay auction for 30-40 pinball machines selling as one lot from a business in Chattanooga Tennessee. These pins are from that auction. I was trying desperately to get my hands on that Quicksilver. After the Ebay auction they all disappeared. Brenna and I got to talking about them and he knew where they were. I don't how he knew but he knew. And the pin gods finally blew the magic dust his way.

#378 1 year ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Awsome!! Thanks for the background. Always interesting

Yes, it is. How about you sharing with us your scooped 'em up and dragged them home" story? All except the Nugent

#385 1 year ago

While I have everybody's attention..............Let's talk Stern Wide Bodies: Big Game, Cheetah, Flight 2000, Freefall, Iron Maiden, Viper, Orbiter?

Actually, they are not so much wide bodies as they are large bodies. They are in a class of their own. The play field glass on the big ones measures 45 5/8 x 24 5/8. The small ones (seawitch et al.) measure 43 x 21. The ratio of length to width on the big ones is 1.85. The ratio on the smalls is 2.04. Think in terms of a tiny Elton John (Captain Fantastik) standing behind an oversized pinball machine. Stern large body.

My short 2-3 years messing around with my Sterns has taught me that the dark colored play fields are hard to see the ball sometimes; There is too much reflection; This would be Big Game and Dragonfist. On the flip side of the coin, Seawitch and Catacomb are relatively light color play fields and reflected light is not a problem, for me, anyway.

Here is the pitch. I would love to have a PDI/ Invisible play field glass for my Big Game. They are not cheap. But to get one, Joey at PDI says I would have to buy 5 minimum. I can't afford 5 of them; I can barely afford one.

I'm looking for 4 other large body Stern owners that would want to partner up and split the costs for an invisible play field glass. I know it is a long shot but if you don't ask you don't get a date.

Anybody?

#390 1 year ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Mine arnt interesting except maybe the quicksilver.
Freefall a operator traded me it fully working and shopped for a as is Eldorado. He dosen't want to route 80s pins anymore as they break down too much.
Flight 2000 I got in a trade from a local collector it's a little rough planking not working etc traded a really nice boomerang, a decent hot shot and a smelly card wiz for the flight 2000 and a decent Phoenix.
Meteor I got a reply to a wanted ad I have from a collector about a hour away. Nice shape some playfeild wear and won't boot.
Nugent I bought from a for sale ad on pinside it's being shipped in.
Seawitch a guy on pinside saw I was looking for one in this thread and I bought a non working project off him had it shipped in. First game I've had shipped.
Then quicksilver was the biggest surprise.
I had a specific want ad for it and a guy in Halifax contacted me he got a project in a trade a couple weeks ago and wanted to sell it.
It has a plexiglass backglass, playfeild wear, head damage and missing cpu. Had a guy I know in Halifax pick it up for me and ship it here. Just got shipped today should have it next week. Paid 1800 cad for it plus 300 shipping and 100 for my friends time so 2200 cad( 1700usd)[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you for those pics. Your QS has all the same wear spots that are on mine. I got mine for just a little less than you but I had to buy a BG Resto back glass. And I have no boards, at all. Mine was a 1000 mile drive to pick up a Nine Ball cabinet and another 90 miles to pick up a populated play field. Desperate times call for desperate measures.

IMG_7069 (resized).JPG

#397 1 year ago
Quoted from DRDAVE:

I may be interested in 1 or 2 PDI for the Stern widebody.
**Also be very careful with Stern playfield glass.** The lockdown bar receiver lip sits too close to the glass causing it to easily scratch when taking the glass out or in. You need to carefully lift the glass while moving the glass so it doesn't scrape against it.
The easy fix for this is to pound the tip of a bamboo skewer into both of the plastic channels the glass enters into. This makes the glass elevated a few milliliters enough to clear the lip with out too much effort/caution when removing/installing glass. And no more **SCreeeeeecchhh!** =)

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Never had this issue on mine.

The more I work on my pins the more "flaws" from the factory I see. These things were put together in such an imprecise manner.

Quoted from dothedoo:

Interesting solution. Both my QS and SG screech.

I noticed this on the glass of one pin I had and sold. I suppose those rubber/plastic channels shrink with age and let the glass sit lower, or perhaps the receiver was located just a tad too high on the cabinet. I think I will take a file to receiver and file that lip down a little bit as a preventive measure.

If you are interested in 2 PDI wide body Sterns that makes 3. I'm looking for 2 more to join.

#400 1 year ago
Quoted from SergioJ:

Anybody got Cheetah playfield plastics for sale? Looking for the lower right ball guide next to the flipper....

I have some Cheetah plastics. I have the ball guides but the tips by the flippers are broken. I would prefer to see them all but have not been actively presenting them and I don't know how to price them.

IMG_5071 (resized).JPG

IMG_5072 (resized).JPGIMG_5073 (resized).JPG

IMG_5082 (resized).JPGIMG_5083 (resized).JPG

#402 1 year ago
Quoted from SergioJ:

Maybe we can trade some stuff? I’ll pm you when I get back from York....

OK. Sounds good.

#424 1 year ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Fresh in from Halifax.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Is this a 2nd Quicksilver for you, Mitch?

#427 1 year ago
Quoted from ita47:

Does anyone have a lockbar you would sell. I need one for my Stern Stars. Mine is bent up, it looks like someone tried to pry it up. If you have one shoot me a PM.
Thanks!

How bad is it bent? Got a picture? I don't have one but sometimes bent metal can be straightened.

#433 1 year ago

Something else I like to do is make one wafer connector in the backbox a little more robust.

This is the connector for the flipper wires ( the green and the orange wires). There are the two flipper wires sitting at the bottom of the connector and one wire 3 places up. To me this connector seems sloppy and has a loose fit at the top part of the wafer.

IMG_8700 (resized).JPG

So what I like to do is add one or two dummy connectors at the top of the wafter to make it hold a little more solidly to the pins. It is certainly not necessary but it does add a little more grip.

IMG_8703 (resized).JPG

IMG_8709 (resized).JPG

#437 1 year ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

you can put the crimps contact without the wire inside the housing... i do it all the time when a need more grip

Quoted from Mitch:

I was just gonna post that.

Well, I was going to do that but then you would have not been able to see anything

You believe me, don't you

#448 1 year ago
Quoted from klr650:

STARS!!!!!! Wow, you are doing exceedingly well on your search for Classic Sterns!

Yes, he is. And I know what he is going to be doing for the next 3-4 years

#455 1 year ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Lots of repairs!!

Your proclivity for assembling a targeted group of pins in such a short time is to be commended, if not envied.

It took me 2 years and a lot of driving to chase all mine down.

I figure I will be 3 years getting them in top condition.

#467 12 months ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

My Lectronamo has been misbehaving over the last few days and needs a kick in the rear.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Now I understand one reason Stern changed the style of the drop targets and left the tombstone on the shelf. That's a big gap between the target and the edge of the hole. What I would do is relocate the complete drop target assembly "forward" to close the gap between the play field and the face of the drop target. It would not be hard to do. Fill 4 holes with dowel rod and re-drill them.

After that, if the problem still exists I would relocate the two posts to bring the rubber closer to the back side of the targets and over the gap.

6788b7b475e034eefba8292cc52c6d566cb63e9a.jpeg (resized).jpg

#469 12 months ago
Quoted from klr650:

Looks like Stern is actually listening to all those folks who wanted to see a Classic Stern playfield remade. The new Beatles playfield (at first glance) is a Seawitch (with 2 magnets and a spinning record). I like the spinning record, reminds me of Chicago Coin's "Gold Record". Unfortunately, not a beatles fan.

EDIT: Nevermind.

#471 12 months ago
Quoted from klr650:

Looks like Stern is actually listening to all those folks who wanted to see a Classic Stern playfield remade. The new Beatles playfield (at first glance) is a Seawitch (with 2 magnets and a spinning record). I like the spinning record, reminds me of Chicago Coin's "Gold Record". Unfortunately, not a beatles fan.

You are right. A Seawitch for sure.

I found the movie at The Beatles Store. Unfortunately, I cannot find it with a direct youtube search.

https://thebeatlesstore.com/pages/the-beatles-pinball-machines?utm_source=twitter&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=the%20beatles_pinball-teaser&utm_content=

So, drop targets are being produced. Many said drop targets would be too expensive to produce.

I have a Seawitch so I don't need one of these. 1964 are being made. Nice number that matches the year they went on Ed Sullivan and took over the world.

#472 12 months ago
Quoted from klr650:

Yeah, that Beatles thread is turning into a complete and utter dumpster fire. Best to just keep the discussion over there!

Sorry. I did not even know about it. Should I delete my post

#475 12 months ago
Quoted from klr650:

No, I was looking for some pictures to upload and (during the search) was just blown away by how angry many Pinsiders are about this pin!!!

I had to go look. I see what you mean

#476 12 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Stern obviously made this for nonpinheads. Had this been for pinheads it would’ve been a seawitch. I was so excited when Dwight hinted to me that they were considering revisiting classic sterns. Just wish it was to remake them.

Well, even if what ever Stern made was a POS, there are still enough Beatle fans to buy it just because it is something new that is branded The Beatles.

So, Stern tries out the "single level" play field on people who have never played an 80s classic and maybe Stern can develop a "new" market for single level play fields. Who knows? Anyway, the Seawitch platform is a great one for the average player and it might get lots of coverage.

Interesting that it is a deep cabinet with blades on the side. I think it looks butt ugly with all those "sock hop" colors. But I would like to play one and see how it compares.

#487 12 months ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

I'm interested to see if they did anything with the geometry of the lower right side of the playfield vs. classic seawitch. I love my seawitch but those shots are stupid tough and usually just "lucked" when I make them. I've got a williams flipper there I can't imagine how impossible they'd be with a classic stern fatty.

The geometry looks unchanged. But Williams style pointed nose flippers are being employed all 4 flippers. Also, the rubber below the the star rollover has been replaced with a steel ball guide which might make the rollover shot a little more easy to shoot.

Screen Shot 2018-10-24 at 8.40.18 AM (resized).png

The spinner's left side is suspended in the air (like nine Ball) and there is a "new" standup target. The open area under the spinner should give you a little more wriggle room with the spinner shot and the stand up target gives you something so the shot is not a complete bust.

Screen Shot 2018-10-24 at 8.37.35 AM (resized).png

There also is a new oneway wire gate that makes the skill shot well defined. Trying to do a skill shot on Seawitch was sort of a fool's errand in my experience. This gate changes that.

There also is a Super Jackpot stand up accessible behind the upper left flipper once you knock down the 3 drops. Will those 3 drops bounce back up as on Seawitch and you will have to do something special to keep them down so you can access that SJ stand up?

Screen Shot 2018-10-24 at 8.42.16 AM (resized).png

#489 12 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Can everyone please keep the Beatles discussion in the Beatles thread. This is a classic stern thread and it is not a classic stern.

My apologies, Mitch. This will be my last post on it.

A spinner has been added next to the left pop bumper. But what I am really wanting to see is what is being used in place of the flap gate in the shooter lane at the orbit. The pics do not show much other than it is a heavier piece of metal that does look like it will flex as the original does. I cannot see how it is hinged. That lightweight thin steel flap gate on original Seawitch is substandard. My mind is wanting to see how it is hinged and what kind of return spring is being used.

I am also wondering if Stern might consider selling this new flap gate as an upgrade for the original Seawitches?

Oh yeah, for anyone hoping Stern will remake the old classics, such as Quicksilver, this pin is your answer. It will not be the same. As Mitch says, this is a Beatles pin. It is not a Seawitch----but I sure would like to be able to buy one of those flap gate replacements.

Screen Shot 2018-10-24 at 8.28.59 AM (resized).png
Screen Shot 2018-10-24 at 8.30.25 AM (resized).png

Screen Shot 2018-10-24 at 8.31.16 AM (resized).png

#491 12 months ago

I just sent a request to Stern asking if this new flap gate might be available for sale to the general population.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

"I have just seen the youtube video of the new Stern The Beatles pinball machine that will soon be for sale.

I am inquiring to see if a particular part on The Beatles pinball machine would be available for general sale to people who do not own a The Beatles pinball.

I have a collection of classic Stern pinballs and we all know The Beatles is an ungraded design of the Stern Electronics pinball machine Seawitch.

So, what I am wanting to know is if I could buy one of the upgraded shooter lane entry gates that leads to the orbit and use it as an upgrade for my original Seawitch with an entry flap gate that is old school and could sure use what looks to be an upgraded gate on The Beatles.

There are a few Seawitch owners who would appreciate it very much if Stern would offer this as an upgrade for a classic Stern Electronics pin.

Please advise.

Thank you,"

(your name and city)

++++++++++++++++++

I sent my request to the Parts department. There is also Consumer Sales as a contact option.

If anybody is so inclined, maybe you could send Stern a similar request. And may be we can get access to a good gate. I figure it cannot hurt to ask and the more people asking, the better.

http://www.sternpinball.com/contact

#492 12 months ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

Flap gate? I don't see a flap gate at all, only gate I see is by the skill shot.

It is just behind the spinner. It is a little hard to see.

Screen Shot 2018-10-24 at 8.28.59 AM (resized).png

Screen Shot 2018-10-24 at 10.09.44 AM (resized).png
Screen Shot 2018-10-24 at 10.10.02 AM (resized).png

Screen Shot 2018-10-24 at 10.10.18 AM (resized).png

It looks like a rigid piece of metal with factory engineering and factory production capabilities behind it. I would like to be able to buy one and upgrade my Seawitch.

Frunch was on top of it a few weeks ago with his prototype he made in his shop with a ball guide wire. A nice rigid spring loaded gate.

182b4756adbb603ed55baadbce3827b883e70d8f (resized).jpg

ea401c1f59eaae60357f37e48f73c3e1b2e9e0e4 (resized).jpg

#499 12 months ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

Looks like a raised entrance ramp and a solid guide wall continuing around too me, sorta like on my TNA.

Quoted from brenna98:

Yup, that's what I think it is. Just like TNA, as small ramp.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Are you sure the shooter lane isn’t elevated allowing for a guide around the loop?

I did not see that until you all pointed it out. Just like TNA.

#500 12 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

I have a spare demo man launch ramp I might try on my seawitch. Only different is on the Beatles the cab is a modern cab where the glass sits higher so the ball can launch over the ball guide where it might hit the glass on on the standard seawitch cab.
I dont mind talking about Beatles to use to improve the original seawitch that's relevant. I just dont want opinions or reviews of the the Beatles game here.[quoted image]

Well, the ball is 1 1/16" diameter. Wire ball guides are elevated 1/2". I think there is room to make a 1/2"-5/8" high ramp and not cause conflict with the glass. The ramp would need to be long enough to make a gradual climb and not shoot the ball into the glass.

My plate is full until I return from Ft. Worth on Nov. 5th. When I get back I can carve one up from a piece of wood and try it out. If it works, one could be made of a block of dark blue acrylic and located with a couple of screws and removed so it would not be permanent. There are lots of possibilities here.

Here is the reply I got from a Stern tech support guy.

" Parts are available for all new games unless the part is only used on a limited edition game. As far as I know this game has not been announced."

#503 12 months ago

Here is a better shot of that ramp. Just a couple of inches behind the one way wire gate. This goes into my "Gee, why did I not think of this", folder. No springs. No moving parts.

So, hopefully Stern announces this pin goes to production. I'd rather be able to buy that ramp as opposed to having to make one.

Screen Shot 2018-10-24 at 1.12.26 PM (resized).png

#507 12 months ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

Man I can batter those out on the laser table all day long.

Thank you for volunteering We might have to put you on the payroll

#508 12 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

I have a spare demo man launch ramp I might try on my seawitch. Only different is on the Beatles the cab is a modern cab where the glass sits higher so the ball can launch over the ball guide where it might hit the glass on on the standard seawitch cab.

I thought that maybe there could be a nice shallow sloping ramp but there is not enough room for a long ramp without fouling up the skill shot area of the shooter lane. So, the ramp will look like a ski slope which will most likely send the ball into the glass as you have noted; That long piece of metal that is standing up real high at the ramp launch point suggests the ball realy goes airborne. So, a wire form ramp as your demo man ramp might be an option. Or an acrylic tube like Xenon might work.

I can think of two other options but they are radical. The first option would be to lower the four Z-brackets the play field sits on. I think there is enough room in the cab that the play field could be dropped an inch. The problem with doing this is you would have to lower your shooter rod by one inch which would require one to drill a new shooter rod hole in the cab. It would be easy to do but no one is going to want to drill extra holes in their cabinet.

The other option would be to just drop the two back Z-brackets and lower the back of the play field only which would give you sort of a deep cabinet. But you would need 5 inch long leg levelers which would not be practical, however, you could get some longer legs (PBR sells 31" legs) and elevate the back with longer legs. This would work; I elevate my Big Game with 31" inch legs in the back and make my slope adjustments with the front levelers. This would leave you looking for a solution to alter the angle of how your shooter rod sits in the cabinet so it will match the new angle that your play field is now sitting at. Turning the beehive over 180 degrees might give you the new angle you would need. Or you could modify the beehive.

I'm going to try and make some sort of ramp when I get back home and see what might work.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++

But in the end, I think with Seawitch being an old school pin we are gong to be looking for an old school solution for a better gate. And I keep going back to Frunch's ball guide offering. He has the "rigid" part worked out. Forming a ball guide wire or a piece of sheet metal as a gate is the easy part. Figuring out the pivot point and return spring is the challenge. And I think I might have something.

Just pretend Frunch's gate is a flipper with a small shaft that extends below the play field. You could get a nylon flipper bushing and make a nylon reducer bushing for a smaller shaft and then bolt a bellcrank to the shaft under the play field and attach a return spring. This could be done with a common, easy-to-obtain drop target spring. It would take very little to make a spring tension adjuster.

Screen Shot 2018-10-25 at 11.01.49 AM (resized).png

#510 12 months ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

Im new to all this stuff but what exactly is the issue with the old sea witch shooter lane? Was the old method of the metal flap a bad design or is it that no one makes a replacement so others are making up options?

It is too flimsy. It flexes when the ball hits it when completing a clockwise orbit and messes withe the trajectory.

#512 12 months ago

I can work with you. I'm leaving town on Monday and will not be back until 11-6-18.

I have some free time today and tomorrow.

What do you need?

#514 12 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I thought that maybe there could be a nice shallow sloping ramp but there is not enough room for a long ramp without fouling up the skill shot area of the shooter lane. So, the ramp will look like a ski slope which will most likely send the ball into the glass as you have noted; That long piece of metal that is standing up real high at the ramp launch point suggests the ball realy goes airborne. So, a wire form ramp as your demo man ramp might be an option. Or an acrylic tube like Xenon might work.
I can think of two other options but they are radical. The first option would be to lower the four Z-brackets the play field sits on. I think there is enough room in the cab that the play field could be dropped an inch. The problem with doing this is you would have to lower your shooter rod by one inch which would require one to drill a new shooter rod hole in the cab. It would be easy to do but no one is going to want to drill extra holes in their cabinet.
The other option would be to just drop the two back Z-brackets and lower the back of the play field only which would give you sort of a deep cabinet. But you would need 5 inch long leg levelers which would not be practical, however, you could get some longer legs (PBR sells 31" legs) and elevate the back with longer legs. This would work; I elevate my Big Game with 31" inch legs in the back and make my slope adjustments with the front levelers. This would leave you looking for a solution to alter the angle of how your shooter rod sits in the cabinet so it will match the new angle that your play field is now sitting at. Turning the beehive over 180 degrees might give you the new angle you would need. Or you could modify the beehive.
I'm going to try and make some sort of ramp when I get back home and see what might work.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++
But in the end, I think with Seawitch being an old school pin we are gong to be looking for an old school solution for a better gate. And I keep going back to Frunch's ball guide offering. He has the "rigid" part worked out. Forming a ball guide wire or a piece of sheet metal as a gate is the easy part. Figuring out the pivot point and return spring is the challenge. And I think I might have something.
Just pretend Frunch's gate is a flipper with a small shaft that extends below the play field. You could get a nylon flipper bushing and make a nylon reducer bushing for a smaller shaft and then bolt a bellcrank to the shaft under the play field and attach a return spring. This could be done with a common, easy-to-obtain drop target spring. It would take very little to make a spring tension adjuster.
[quoted image]

There is one more possible option. Mount a complete flipper assembly under the play field. Make a gate to fit. Add a mini switch either on the coin door or by the left flipper button. When you get ready to launch the ball, just push the mini switch and the flipper coil will open the gate. Then shoot the ball and start playing.

#516 12 months ago
Quoted from rollitover:

Better yet a "trigger" rollover.
No need to push a button.

I was thinking about that. How do you do this without cutting a hole in the shooter lane of the play field? A rollover wire mounted on the inside shooter rail, maybe? Once the ball rolls over the trigger how do you keep the gate open long enough to not mess with the ball? It will take a better mind than mine to figure this one out.

#1 choice (for me) is a ramp if we can pull it off. No moving parts and nothing to break. Relatively cheap.

#2 choice (for me) is Frunch's wire guide that is needing a pivot and spring solution...and a switch solution.

#518 12 months ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

crude but gets the idea across.[quoted image]

I can't give you any measurements. I would have to build it first. I just remembered that I have several heavy gauge ball guides I stripped for a High Speed. They will be perfect for trying form a piece of metal to make a gate.

I still like the idea of a ramp better. No moving parts. But if the ramp won't work........

I taped a flipper assembly base to the underside on my Seawitch play field. It is tight and it will fit but i makes me think of Frankenpin. It is not easily repeatable and would be expensive to make if you don't have a trashed flipper assembly as a donor. The flipper bat is sitting at the pivot point.

IMG_8739 (resized).JPG

#532 11 months ago
Quoted from rollitover:

I have this same situation on my Viking. One bulb burns super bright for awhile then burns out.
I have been told that I am going through a bad batch of bulbs. In other words, cheap or poorly manufactured.
Though sceptical at first, after about the third try I have not had a problem since.

The pops all feed from same buss. Bad bulbs sound reasonable

#537 11 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Warm white single or dual smd in the gi color in gi looks terrible. Color matched inserts. Not sure if classic sterns need the seigcraft boards for insert flickering.
Comet is great for LEDs

What he said.

Classic Stern needs the boards or a new Alltek or barakandi SDU. Comet sells the boards.

For your orange inserts use pink lights. it is something to do with how the colors are filtered.

For play field inserts that are white/ivory I like cool white as opposed to warm white. Cool white really makes the white inserts stand out.

#553 11 months ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

But not so good with wiring.

Shapeshifter, it is time you start learning some basic wiring. This is the same pop assy. you have in your Catacomb. You need to remove yours and see what is going on. Your switch contacts are that little black blob on the left. It attaches with two small straight slot screws. Remove the two screws and let the switch hang. The coil is not installed on this unit.

To remove the coil, remove the two screws at the bottom (not shown). This will allow you to remove the coil stop. With coil stop removed, the coil is going to fall off of its mounting position so look the coil over closely to see how it is setting before you remove it; You will want to reinstall it the way it came off. The coli sleeve is going come out with the coil; Pay double attention to how the coil sleeve is installed. You have been advised. You can let the coil hang or you can secure it with some tie wraps.

IMG_8741 (resized).JPG

There will be two wires coming from the bottom of your pop assy. You have a wire splice mess going on in there. Don't cut any wires yet, but try to partially remove at least on pop so you can see what is going on. After you have a look and if you feel comfortable, cut your wiring as close to the splice as possible and remove the pop assy. Or don't cut anything. Just pull the pop from the play field and look around. There are only two lamp wires coming from each pop so there cannot be too much to look for.

You biggest challenge/headache is the lousy screws Stern used to put this pin together with. They are a shallow head bolt. They are not magnetic. They are a pain in the ass to reinstall; You will learn to miss Phillips head screws.

The good news is that your pops do not have to be lit for you to play your pin. I don't not have my Catacomb pops lit up and I have good times playing. Lit pops have just not been a priority for me at this time but I will get there.

If you run into problems, send me an email.

IMG_8743 (resized).JPG
IMG_8744 (resized).JPG

#557 11 months ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

And, just bought pavball and I’s fourth classic stern. Joining our Quicksilver, Catacomb and Seawitch is (this photo was from HAAG a couple weeks ago, but this is our new game):
[quoted image]

Looks grand ! Is it clear coated?

1 week later
#568 11 months ago
Quoted from CaffeineSlug:

Looking for some drop target return springs, 5A-171. What's a good substitute? The DE/Sega/Stern current spring? https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-drop-target-spring.html

For which pin? Stern used two types of drop springs that I know of. One is long like the pic you showed and one is shorter.

#570 11 months ago
Quoted from CaffeineSlug:

This would be for Meteor.

This drop assembly is from a Big Game. There is a cross tube mounted that the springs attach to. The cross tube and short springs are used in Big Game, and all of the Sterns that came after.

IMG_8783 (resized).JPG

The Meteor drop target assemblies I have do not use the crossover tube. Instead, the springs are the longer springs that attach to the lift blades down in the bottom of the assembly.

The pic you linked from Pinball Life is the correct longer spring.

#575 11 months ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

A bit of troubleshooting help...
I bought brand new flipper mechs for my Dragonfist from Pinball Life. I installed the right side last night. I moved the wires over 1 by 1 from the old mech to the new mech. I realized quickly that the flipper was getting weaker. Lifted the playfield and found the coil was hot. Shut game off, let it cool a few minutes. Double checked the EOS switches and all my soldering connections, seemed okay. Tried playing again, this time each time I flipped the right side the lights in the game flickered and after about 4-5 flips the game just shut off completely. Now it won't do anything. No LED comes on at all with the MPU, nothing happens at all on the game at the moment.
Any ideas what just happened?

The coils can be installed in the brackets with the lugs pointing in either direction. Are the old and news coils installed in the same direction in the brackets? If not and you were not playing attention it would be possible to wire them up backwards.

This is a left hand side from a Meteor. THe blue/white power wire is on the left lug. The right hand side will be the same way except the green wire on the left will be an orange wire on the right hand side.

If you are holding the coil in the other direction then the blue/white power wire would on your right hand side instead of your left.

IMG_8789 (resized).JPG

#579 11 months ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Can someone recomend a set of replacement legs for my Stern Lightning?
Thanks

Pinball Resource.

http://pbresource.com/legs.html

Bally leg. part number: #LEG-28GR

Dark Grey non-ribbed.

#584 11 months ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

So it was the furthest fuse to the right on the rectifier board, it tested okay but swapping it out made the game come back to life. My right flipper is still causing the lights to flicker, I only gave it 2 flips this time before shutting it off. I double checked my wiring from the original and its definitely correct. I tried swapping the EOS wires and no change. I replaced the diodes on the coil itself (the coil is brand new from Pinball Life), any other ideas?

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Does it work fine if you put the old parts back in?

Good question. I got a defective coil from PBR one time. Maybe the coil is defective.

#607 11 months ago
Quoted from klr650:

Like many other Quicksilvers, mine was manufactured with the much-coveted orange and black Meteor apron. I took a chance and repainted mine. I wanted to use enamels so I had to go with some very generic colors. So I just went with "John Deere green" and "lime green."
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

It does look nice. How did you re-do your "lime green" rams horn and logo?

#616 11 months ago
Quoted from rollitover:

So...
a non-working, relatively clean Quicksilver was just sold here in Mn for...
-hold onto your hats- $5k
At least that was the asking price and a PM was sent within a few hrs. Soon after the machine was listed as sold and the marketplace ad taken down.
So...
I suppose all those other owners of Quicksilver are all licking their chops and dreaming about the pile of cash this payday of a machine might garner.
Thoughts?

I wonder at what point we start seeing pinball machines enter the Pebble Beach of pinballs. Or going across the block at Barrett-Jackson. Never to be played again. Just traded around by a bunch of old men for ever increasing dollars.

#620 11 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

This was just posted on Facebook
Digging the custom playfield additions.
[quoted image]

That custom Seawitch play field was shown in the Seawitch thread 5 years ago. See post #13.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/any-seawitch-fans-on-pinside

#621 11 months ago

Cheetah owners: Maybe you are aware if this replacement part, or maybe not.

This board is for getting rid of that pesky grid board Stern produced. I have this pinsider's boards in my Big Game and Nine Ball. I wish he would make one for Catacomb. It is worth the money and time to install.

Screen Shot 2018-11-17 at 10.24.33 AM (resized).png

https://pinballreplacementparts.com/products/stern-cheetah-replacement-lamp-boards-take-555-sockets

https://pinballreplacementparts.com/collections/all?page=3

#625 11 months ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

I have an issues with my seawitch that is so random I cannot figure out how to fix it as i can never replicated it when I want to.
maybe 1 in 20 times the drop target bank on the left of right in the middle will drop 1 or very very rarely 2 targets down when it resets at the start of a ball or after the target bank is complete. They are original targets, how do I fix the issue?
Same targets can also occasionally brick as well if you hit them straight on.

You are going to have to remove your drop target assembly and clean the bar the targets rest on and clean the target rest, as well. Make sure the target rest is not worn. If it is worn you can fix it with a file.

I have this happen on my Seawitch at one of the lower three drops and another of my Sterns does this. It happens only occasionally and I don't worry about it.

Unless your pin is used in competition I say just play on.

#639 11 months ago
Quoted from atariaction:

I was thinking with the tighter spring as soon as the drop Target was knocked off the ledge it would be more prone to getting pulled down.

You want the spring just tight enough to hold the target in the "up" position. The target will fall of its own weight. As Vid stated one time, if you apply some wax to the target "rest" bar and some wax to the edge of the target mounting point, "they will drop like stones".

If you have a drop target assembly that is all scuzzy and greasy you should remove it, disassemble it, clean it up and wax the moving parts. Once you have done that, just toy around with it for awhile and see how easy the targets drop when you give a slight push with your finger.

I read this tern "bricking" that gets talked about. I guess bricking is when the ball hits the target but the target does not drop. My thoughts on that are that maybe the drop target assembly is not located correctly in its slot on the play field. I'm learning that Stern's factory assembly was anything but precise. If a drop target assembly is located too far back in its slot then possibly the back of the drop target is contacting the play field wood before it has a chance to drop. I'm not sure, though. It is just a guess. But if my targets were not dropping properly per engineering design, proper location of the drop assembly is the first item I would be checking.

#640 11 months ago
Quoted from atariaction:

Really? Interesting. How do they do that? Pennies on the back or something?

Add a length of of solder along the length of the shank.

#643 11 months ago
Quoted from atariaction:

This sounds like good advice! I will tinker with this. I did hear that the new drop target molds are a little different and some people refuse to use them.

I think the replacement targets are 1/8" shorter in shank length. It means you need to add a shim on the "raise up" bar or they will not sit flush with the play field surface. However, this will have no effect on how the targets behave.

If worse comes to worst, one could always get some styrene model plastic. With a small piece of plastic and some super glue a worn landing surface on the drop target can always be repaired/rebuilt.

#657 11 months ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

Hi all, for the past month I have been testing my own protectors for Classic Stern playfields. I've been using them at my location and have yet to hear any complaints in regards to ball hangups or strange behavior. I have also been asking the regulars for active feedback and has been all positive so far, no one even knew I had them installed for the first week.
For those unfamiliar with the concept this is a single piece of PETG plastic that covers the entire playfield surface. The plastic is crystal clear and very thin only being .02" thick. The main benefit to a protector is that is essentially a poor mans version of clear coating a playfield. The protector will help stop a playfield that is starting to see wear. You can apply decals or touch up paint underneath and the protector keeps them fresh and intact. They also help level cupped or sunken inserts and returns these classic Sterns back to the screaming fast game that they were when factory fresh. This is also a fully reversible mod that can keep a playfield intact until you are ready to do a full and proper restore on it. The added bonus is that you also get a nice glossy playfield plane as the pictures will show. I want to be clear that this is not an original idea but as no one has made these available for Classic Stern games I figure that now is the time.
I have my version available which I call Pinball Playshields and are available for Meteor, Big Game and SeaWitch at https://beehivepinball.bigcartel.com/ for $75. Use discount code pinside10 for $10 off now thru Xmas. Playshields for Stars, Star Gazer and QuickSilver should be ready by the end of next week. After that I should have more titles coming including Flight 2000, Galaxy and Dracula. I'll also be recreating ball guides and wire forms for each of the games listed and will be rolling them out soon for anyone doing a restoration - Thanks[quoted image][quoted image]

They look nice. Nice price, too.

I have made 5 protectors for my pins. I am a big believer in them.

How are you addressing the star rollover inserts? There are 5 rollovers on Big Game. How is the play action at the rollover inserts?

#661 11 months ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

For the star rollovers the bottom is set a bit proud over the bottom edge of the insert and leaves a small gap at the top. The idea being that the curve of the star button will help level the field of play and not allow a low point where the ball can get stuck

That is a clever approach. It looks interesting. I understand what you say about the Big Game ball guides; You get some slack with the ball guides; The only real challenge is the rollover in the middle of the play field; If your design does not interfere with the ball trajectory then i would say you are onto something.

I'd like to hear your friend's opinion.

#662 11 months ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

I was a bit worried on this game also. The playfield design once again is the key to the problem more than any solution I have come up with. On SeaWitch the star rollover hugs the top guide rail so even a slow moving ball shouldn't be allowed to get stuck on the lip of the Playshield as the ball is forced back towards the pop bumpers or toward either orbit. The diameter of the ball is larger than the insert so gravity, the balls momentum and the proximity of the ball guide should force the ball to keep moving off of the insert and prevent any hang ups. This is also true of QuickSilver as both rollovers are overlapped by the ball guides. Again these drawings are a bit crude but I think it conveys my point. I'll have some actual pics of what I'm saying in this and my previous post once the holiday is over.
[quoted image][quoted image]

On my Big Game and Seawitch, I removed and raised the inserts. This method has served me well. However, when I reinstalled the inserts I just tapped them in with a wood block and did not use any glue at all. On Seawitch, the lower insert (the one labeled as "skill shot" on The Beatles pin) sometimes sinks a little bit on me and causes ball hangups. If you have any problems, it will likely be with this insert.

Catacomb has an insert at the top of the arch just like Seawitch. On Catacomb, I got lazy. Because I would have had to remove the play field to get at that insert I just left it as it was and made a beveled cut around the edges to smooth out the motion of the ball. For the most part it works OK; It is not a super critical shot but the ball does get stuck occasionally. I think if I were to do a remake and use your method at the insert---I think my problem would go away.

I have not made a protector for Dragonfist, yet. It has one star rollover but the rollover sits inside of two ball guides with a ball lane that sits along the side of the play field. Ball travel trajectory is critical in this "difficult shot" area. I think in the next couple of weeks I am going to break from my regularly scheduled programming and cut a protector and use your style of cut at the rollover.

Without seeing this in action and not being able to play a pin with this protector I can't offer a qualified opinion, but what you have designed sure looks good.

You may have solved the star rollover insert-protector issue.

1 week later
#672 10 months ago

Better idea. Get some .030" polycarbonate and cut a pair to fit your plastics profiles and place them under your plastics.

Poly makes great ball guides

#673 10 months ago

Stern also put a service bulliton out that shows adding a 3" long ball guide similar to what you are talking

#675 10 months ago
Quoted from fissionch1ps:

Nice! Thanks for the poly tip. Seems like a good half measure before installing a rail. Do you know where I can find the bulletin?

I have the bulletin at home. It was part of a package of Stern pubs I bought. I'll look for it when i get home.

If you decide to make some poly guides they will not be a half-measure. Once you put these on you will be made whole and can play your heart out.

#677 10 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I have the bulletin at home. It was part of a package of Stern pubs I bought. I'll look for it when i get home.
If you decide to make some poly guides they will not be a half-measure. Once you put these on you will be made whole and can play your heart out.

I cannot find that Flight 2000 service bulletin anywhere. But it was addressing the broken flipper/inlane plastics. The solution was/is to take a couple of short 1 1/2" or 2" metal ball guides and locate them (drill holes) under the plastic ball guides in such a way that the inlane side of the metal ball guide is under the plastic ball guide so there is no interference with the ball as it heads towards the flipper; And then the flipper side of the metal ball guide now protrudes from under the plastic ball guide and the ball energy is now picked up by the metal ball guide instead of the plastic ball guide.

Mt F2K has these guides on, but my F2K is also folded up and shoveled into a closet. If someone really needs to see what is all about I can get pics, but i'd rather not

#693 10 months ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

Maybe he is on Vacation or something although it's been a couple of weeks now. . Definitely prefer a new one if possible.

He has been out of the country with his day job.

#713 10 months ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

My meteor metal light board is frustrating with a lamp going out here and there .....but you just touch them and the light comes back only to go out again after a few games. I getting desperate enough to install 27 sockets in its place. Are there replacements for these?

Yes. The same guy who makes the Big Game boards makes them for Meteor.

https://pinballreplacementparts.com/products/stern-meteor-set-of-lamp-boards-to-replace-the-old-metal-ones

EDIT: I now see this was already addressed.

#714 10 months ago
Quoted from statictrance:

The guy that makes them is a friend of mine and his direct website is below. it was funny - I posted here for a solution, someone said "hey go here" and as soon as I saw the site I had a real "hey, I know that guy" moment.
Anyway... there are a number of boards to help alleviate the old and failing stern bulb holders. He mentioned he may do Split Second if the demand is there (and since I have one he can do the measurements and prototyping on). Not sure it makes sense since they are just individual sockets and can easily be replaced.
https://pinballreplacementparts.com/collections/all?page=3

I asked Christopher if he would make some for Catacomb with it's 16 lights in play field center. But all lights are individual sockets and my request has gone nowhere.

#716 10 months ago
Quoted from statictrance:

cottonm4 Next time I talk to him, I'll mention it. He's a pretty busy guy and does this in his spare time, I'm not sure what he has next in his tinkering queue. I would have guessed finding a Catacomb to measure, fit, test, and futz with would be an issue - but PAPA has one and I'm assuming their Cheetah and Nine Ball were measured for those boards. (not like these titles are like an F2K or a WMS Flash, right?).
tsskinne - I'll let him know there's at least one person that wants a split second board. I haven't gotten too much time to dig under mine due to time constraints and it's about 95% on the money as purchases (just a few lamps and 2-3 dirty switches), but I'm guessing it would be two boards, 1 for 'Split Second' and 1 for the bonus area.

Thank you !!

#722 10 months ago

It would be handy to have. I would have a request with the controlled lamps chart. In your Black Jack example, all of the controlled lamps are listed alphabetically. A cross reference chart that listed the lamps as wire pair groups grouped by the first wire color would also be nice.

For example (from Blackjack) :

1st player.....................red-blue
credit indicator..............red-yel
Player 17......................red-blue
Player 21......................red-yel
Saucer 3X.....................red-white
Spinner 1000.................red-grn
.
.
.
2nd player ....................blu-yel
Bonus 2K......................blu-wht
Shoot again...................blu-yel
Saucer 5X......................blu-wht

#724 10 months ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

When all the Tech Charts are done, I will upload this info the www.pinwiki.com too.
I've already done this for the Bally 6803 games.
In this listing you can sort on wire color just like you asked.
For example Strange Science: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Strange_Science
Just click on the wire color column...
It's hard to do this with a paper document.
The files I put on my website are intended to be printed and kept with the machine.

nice link. You rock !!

3 weeks later
#784 9 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Got my meteor parts in today from a fellow pinsider, I'll let him come forward if he wants to be known.
Thanks again!
[quoted image]

It is always a relief to hear when the package arrives.

I trust you are satisfied with the package and hope you found my descriptions of the parts accurate.

EDIT: I cannot thank you enough for getting the ball rolling with Mirco to start producing repro Quicksilver play fields.

#796 9 months ago
Quoted from semicolin:

It's incredible the amount of effort that stupid people will invest on saving $0.05 on a resistor. Hard to find ICs... sure. Fine. Whatever. Poaching a board for resistors that are undersized anyway? Aaaaaauuuugghhh
...but still fixable. I might. But I'm not looking after dozens of games.

I live in a city of 400,000 people. All of the Radio Shacks closed when RS went out of biz. And we always had a local diehard type electronic store that recently closed its doors after 50 years. Here I am, 20% into the 21st Century and my only option for buying electronics parts is online. So, if I am in a hurry, I am just hosed. Add in mail order prices and it is no longer a $0.05 resistor.

The guy who robbed those parts probably had no other options.

#803 9 months ago

My Sterns are loaded up with these obsolete .05 M 100v capacitors. What is a good substitute? What is a good substitute that does not cost an arm and a leg?

And where do you buy them?

IMG_9245 (resized).JPG

#811 9 months ago
Quoted from atariaction:

I learned something today that I thought I would share. I imagine some of you know this already but if you are using on altek board in a Stern 200 game you must change the clock setting jumpers over to the left side or else the machine does not play right. everything is slow. That was new to me and fixed my problem perfectly!

One of my Stern 200s was bought from a retailer and shipped in. The shop owner said he had to play test it before before I could buy. He finally gave a thumb's up and I had it shipped across the country.

I set up and plugged in. That pin was dog slow. I'm thinking about what kind of mess I had got myself into. The flippers were weak. The pops could barely push the ball. All of the feature lights were flickering. I had forgot about those Alltek jumper pins. I spent quite a while trouble shooting the problem and then remembered about moving those jumpers. Sure enough, the retailer and his mechanics overlooked the jumpers. When I repositioned them the pin sprung to life.

That was a close call. The retailer knowingly sent something substandard out the door for primo price. It if had been something more serious. I would have never gotten my money back.

#819 9 months ago

I'm going to be needing some boards in near future.

The Weebly products look interesting and pricing is more friendly. And I know barakandi is a pinsider.

Alltek boards have the lifetime guarantee. Does that lifetime guarantee make the Alltek products worth the extra money?

What kind of warranty do the Weebly products have?

#847 9 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Well here it is. One of the few remaining games on my wanted list.
Did a 11 hour round trip today and 1000 km (600 miles) but she is home with me.
Needs a playfeild and backglass both rough.
[quoted image][quoted image]

How do you find this all of this stuff? In less than 4 months you have accumulated almost all of the classic Stern heavy hitters.

#851 9 months ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Was a bad capacitor, thanks for all those who answered.

Many thanks for posting the solution. Every little bit helps.

#866 9 months ago

How fast do these bumper assemblies spin. What RPM? Would it be possible to buy a couple of high RPM motors, machine some brackets and machine the bumper part from hard rubber?

What about a motor from a Skil Saw. They are high speed with fast start up. They are continuous duty motors. And they have a threaded shaft.

#872 9 months ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

They have an optic assembly on the underside that senses when the ball impacts the bumper and slows it down. I'd have to double check the RPM, it's a bit complicated, unfortunately

This is a R-E-A-L long shot. Steve, at PBR told me one time that he knows the old timers from the industry. So when he needs some springs made up he calls the guy that used to make the springs. Stuff like that.

When I first did biz with him for my Big Game he commented negatively on the quality of Stern Electronics products. As I gained experience had some closer looks at some Gottlieb pins I could see what he was talking about.

He knows people. He might know who made those Orbitor motors.

You might try putting on your best ass kissing voice you can muster and give him a call---perhaps after you bought a few dollars worth of parts from him. The active phrase in that sentence is "ass kissing voice". Sort of like somebody approaching the Godfather and asking for a favor

#878 9 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Anyone know the part number for the L-bracket that holds the ball guides to the playfield on Trident (and I'm sure many other games)? Image for reference.
[quoted image]

THere is no part number for the L-bracket. The manual will give you a part number for the ball guide assembly.

Pinball Resource has several old Stern ball guides you can buy and salvage the angle brackets if you want to.

This link: Scroll down about 35 items from the top.

http://www.pbresource.com/special.html

#888 9 months ago
Quoted from lowbeau67:

I picked up a f2k in August and just grabbed a sbm last week.
I find myself playing those 2 a lot more than my Gotg pro
I got in june. Really liking my classic ss pins. Spinners galore
.

I know what F2K is but you got me with “sbm”. I’ll probably feel stupid but what is sbm?

#897 9 months ago

Classic Stern slingshot hardware...

The pivot for your sling shot arms is probably worn out. It is not causing you any real problems. Your sling arm is still going to kick the ball across the play field, but when you get jumpy about replacing worn parts you do have an option.

Your sling arms:

IMG_9419 (resized).JPG

And the pivot>

Screen Shot 2019-01-21 at 12.05.47 PM (resized).png

Here is what the assembly looks like when the pivot is worn out. Years of playing has taken its toll on the pivot shaft and lots of metal has disappeared .

IMG_9392 (resized).JPG

The fix is to replace the pivot bracket assembly. And you have options.

The pivot I pictured is not an original Stern unit. It is a replacement from Pinball Life.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-slingshot-kicker-mounting-bracket.html

*****************************

Here is what you do. My worn out Stern pivot is on the left. When you compare the two pivots side by side, you will see the replacement pivot is shorter than the original. The holes are in different positions. The hole with the arrow drawn next to it is the only hole that matches the original pivot.

Because the replacement is shorter it causes interference with the kicker arm. To correct this problem you have to grind material from the pivot as you can see in my comparison pic.

IMG_9414 (resized).JPG

Next, using some dowel rod you will need to fill in two holes in your play field where the original pivot mounted. Then you screw the replacement pivot to your play field with the one screw hole that matches. Make double sure you have the pivot line up correctly. Then drill two new replacement holes and screw the pivot down to make sure you did everything right.

Your sling arms are fastened to the pivot with a spring clip. I don't know if you can tell in the pic but the shaft the arm attaches to is shorter than the original. To compensate, you will need to file material from your sling arm so it can be clipped on the new pivot shaft.

I could not get the lighting right but I think you can see how one pivot point is shorter than the other. You have to take your time. You don't want to file off more material then you need to but you also need to file enough off that you can replace the spring clip so it does not bind the arm to the pivot.

IMG_9398 (resized).JPG

When you are finished you will have a sling arm assembly this is a lot more solid with better alignment.

IMG_9394 (resized).JPG

#900 9 months ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

my old stern had worn pivots also, the pin was worn more than the sleeve. I took a different approach and my mod allowed me to do fine adjustments with the nut to not allow the arm to rock on the new pin (bolt).
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-lectronamo-rebuild/page/7#post-4602455

That's a nice solution to this problem. Trouble for me is I read that post you started and even mades some comments and I somehow blew right past your fix.

#901 9 months ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Nice write up, thanks

Thanks. I have a correction in instructions that need attention. If you decided to use this replacement pivot please be advised as follows:

Be aware that Stern was not all that precise on how parts were located on the play field. Position the replacement pivot with the one hole that I highlighted as being the only hole that matches the original pivot. When you proceed to line up the replacement pivot, try as much as you can to align the replacement on the same angle as the original.

When I was doing my repair yesterday on my Nine Ball, I filled to two original holes and drilled two new holes. However, I lined the pivot shaft to be perpendicular to the cutout in the play field instead of matching the original imprecise alignment from the factory. The result was that I now had to relocate the coil bracket (drill 3 new holes). I felt this was my only option because I did not want to realign the new pivot which would have met plugging the new two holes I had drilled and drilling another two holes.

#903 9 months ago
Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:

Dracula..... coming back to life as it were....
More pics in following days/weeks....
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

How many coats of clear do you have on? It looks nice.

#904 9 months ago

Adjusting your inlane/outlane ball guides. I won't ask the rhetorical question.

I like fast flipper action. I like the sword fight with the flippers that happens on a fast machine.

I like to adjust my inlane guides to one-half ball height at the entry point and at the exit point in front of the flipper. We use 1 1/16" balls so 1/2 is .55 inch. At mid-point I pull the guides up to .80 inch above the play field.

I try to illustrate with this pic but you cannot easily see what I am talking about. I don't have any engineering on this. It is WAG. My logic is the ball exits into the inlane at speed and as it moves down the guide at the point in the curve (middle pic) where I have the guide lifted up to .80 high the ball sort of slides under the guide just a little. And then as the ball proceeds on down towards the flipper it enters in the area where the guide starts tapering back down to .55 at the flipper exit point.

As stated, I do not have any engineering but my thought is that the ball does not lose any speed as it rolls towards the flipper. But as it enters the area where the guide starts tapering down from .80 to .55 then the larger diameter of the center of the ball gives the ball a little bit of an increase in velocity which helps the ball to sail by the flipper just a little bit faster.

I have no engineering, but it does not hurt anything, so this is how I like to adjust my guides. Your mileage may differ and you may prefer to have your guides "laying flat" all the way around the curve.

Screen Shot 2019-01-23 at 11.13.41 PM (resized).png

#906 9 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Adjusting your inlane/outlane ball guides. I won't ask the rhetorical question.
I like fast flipper action. I like the sword fight with the flippers that happens on a fast machine.
I like to adjust my inlane guides to one-half ball height at the entry point and at the exit point in front of the flipper. We use 1 1/16" balls so 1/2 is .55 inch. At mid-point I pull the guides up to .80 inch above the play field.
I try to illustrate with this pic but you cannot easily see what I am talking about. I don't have any engineering on this. It is WAG. My logic is the ball exits into the inlane at speed and as it moves down the guide at the point in the curve (middle pic) where I have the guide lifted up to .80 high the ball sort of slides under the guide just a little. And then as the ball proceeds on down towards the flipper it enters in the area where the guide starts tapering back down to .55 at the flipper exit point.
As stated, I do not have any engineering but my thought is that the ball does not lose any speed as it rolls towards the flipper. But as it enters the area where the guide starts tapering down from .80 to .55 then the larger diameter of the center of the ball gives the ball a little bit of an increase in velocity which helps the ball to sail by the flipper just a little bit faster.
I have no engineering, but it does not hurt anything, so this is how I like to adjust my guides. Your mileage may differ and you may prefer to have your guides "laying flat" all the way around the curve.
[quoted image]

Let me open up my reference book of profanity. I removed the glass from my Catacomb to take the pics of the ball guides. I did not raise the play field or do anything else. All I did was take the glass off and then replace it. And when I put the glass back on, the ball launcher decided to quit working. I just love trouble shooting this stuff (sigh). &^$##&###^%^U& !!!!!

#912 8 months ago

From the Throw Nothing Away Dept.

I figured out a new use for those old worn out lamp sockets. The metal is rigid but still soft enough you can bend it all over. You know, you have done this hundreds of times when you replace bulbs.

Don't throw that old lamp away. The metal strap makes great brackets.

IMG_9534 (resized).JPG

IMG_9535 (resized).JPG

IMG_9536 (resized).JPG

IMG_9537 (resized).JPG

IMG_9538 (resized).JPG

#921 8 months ago
Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:

Making progress on Dracula....
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Stunning!

#924 8 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Is stargazer the only stern with the extra metal rails under the playfield?
[quoted image]

No. There seems to be no rhyme or reason as to which ones have the metal rails.

#926 8 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

So every stargazer has them or just a few?
Do you have any games with them.

Meteor.....................no

Big Game .................no

Cheetah play field.....yes.

Seawitch...................no

Catacomb ................yes.

Nine Ball .................no

Dragonfist.................yes.

I don't know about Star Gazer.

#948 8 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Look what followed me home. DAMMIT!!! I keep trying to make room and they keep following me home lol.
[quoted image][quoted image]

If you you think you might need a play field to replace your Dracula play field, maybe I can help. Don't hesitate to ask if you need a hand

IMG_9595 (resized).JPG

#964 8 months ago
Quoted from heme:

is that smaller then the standard size or something?

I did not write that very well, did I ? Standard size is 1 1/16"

#978 8 months ago
Quoted from Arcade:

I have a Seawitch that has a decent cabinet except for the frame section of the backbox. I am guessing this is moisture or water damage pictured?
What is the best way to make this look somewhat normal again?
The rest of the head and cabinet show no signs of this problem. Just the corners of the front backglass frame.[quoted image][quoted image]

Do like Red Ketchup did. The old ones are glued on. Pry off and use for pattern. Originals are 5/8” thick. Use 3/4” pine. No one will notice the extra 1/8”.

You can glue and clamp or you can screw them on with 4 flathead screws.

#984 8 months ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Heading down the homestretch of getting my Hot Hand ready for sale.
The folks who had the game before me, for some unknown reason, stored the backglass between two slabs of styrofoam. Kept it from breaking but the rough finish of the styrofoam rubbed off some of the ink. So I bought a new translite for it. The old backglass has the usual metal lift channel, two plastic side channels, but it has this metal strip across the top with two 90 degree flanges on the back that are used to lock it in place.
What is the best way to get this metal strip off the old glass, and the lift channel as well?
Thanks.

The top metal strip with the flanges is sort of pinched on. You should be able to pull it up and off with not too much effort.

The lift channel on my pins is held on with two small pieces of double backed friction tape close to the outside of the glass. Try using a razor knife and cut the tape on the glass side. If you are lucky this will weaken the tape's grip enough that you can pull the lift channel off. If not, carefully try and cut the tape on the ink side.

There are a couple of other methods I have read about but these have worked foe me.

#985 8 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Can someone post a pic of there j1 connector on their quicksilver rectifier board. Need to see where the wires go.

Screen Shot 2019-02-10 at 12.53.15 AM (resized).png

Pin #1 is on your left

Pin 1 = red wire ( GI lighting hot wire )

pin 2 = not used

pin 3 = blue wire (feature lamps)

pin 4 = blocking key

pin 5 = not used

pin 6 = blue/white wire (this is flipper power wire that solders to the 1 amp fuse holder between the flippers)

pin 7 = Blue wire (feature lamps). Helps split the load with pin 3

pin 8 = white wire ( GI lighting ground wire ).

#992 8 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Are all classic sterns rectifier boards wired the same way.

For the most part.

J-1 will be the same.

J-2 will be same.

J-3: My Catacomb has one extra wire.

Meteor has a small difference in the wiring, but I don’t think the difference extends to the rectifier. I’ll have to search this when I get home.

#1008 8 months ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Has anybody installed one of the new playfield protectors on their stars or meteor? Do they cause stucky balls on the drops?

I am not aware of play field protectors being produced for either Stars or Meteor. However, there is one being produced for Star Gazer. There were 869 Star Gazers produced while Stern produced 5127 Meteors. It think it would be more profitable to produce for the larger number but it is what it is..

I have made protectors for my following pins: Big Game, Seawitch, Catacomb, and Nine Ball. Nine Ball is the only one I have had an issue with a ball hanging up at the drop targets.

With the first three pins, the way the drop targets are positioned obliquely on the play field allows for no way for the ball to get trapped. It will be the same with Stars; There is no way for the ball to be trapped. The ball will hit those drops and just fall out.

Nine Ball is a different story. The eight drop targets are placed "vertically" along the left side of the play field. Drop Target #8 sits directly above a play field post. While the other 7 drop targets are backed by a rubber which will bounce the ball away, #8 is a pass-thru to the other side and as the ball attempts to make that pass in can, and does, get trapped in a channel created because the top of the drop target sits lower than the added height of the protector.

My solution for that was to bond a piece of clear plastic to the top of the drop target which makes the top of the drop target level with the play field protector surrounding it. Problem solved: No more stuck balls. I used super glue but I suppose hot glue would would work just as well.

I'm looking at my Meteor play field and the only place I can see where a ball would get stuck is on the right hand side at drop target assembly #3. That lower drop target sits directly above a play field post and could possibly get stuck there. My solution would be the same: Bond a small piece of plastic to the top of the offending target.

Another solution would be to shim all the targets upward until they match the height of the protector.

#1011 8 months ago
Quoted from greatwichjohn:

There is a chance that Big Game will be my third title. Waiting for the art, & I can get a local wall hanger back for cnc. Might need some help fixing the art. I will have a print for TPF to see how it looks. The donor of scan can jump in if he wants.

That would be me.

Some of you are aware I started out with a fairly nice Big Game play field. After I got it back from the restore shop, I bought one of those clear bottom scanners. I scanned it in 20 panels. Another pinsider offered to stitch the panels together and gave me back an 86 megabyte .tif file.

It is not prefect. There area couple of flaws. I am hoping it is something that John will be able to use. I will be sending a CD to John with the file this coming week.

Screen Shot 2019-02-16 at 5.13.02 AM (resized).png

#1031 8 months ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

No, Bally drops will not work in Stern games. SY @ PBR suggests buying the standard Stern drops that he has, and cutting off the tops. Never tried it, as I keep used Chiclets for all of my Stern games.
Jim

Oh yes. A Bally drop target WILL work in a Stern drop target assembly. You can even mix and match. I have been thinking on this for a few weeks. These posts galvanized me into action. I'm eating dinner right now and can post pics once I am done eating.

Keep in mind that Stern copied more than Bally's boards from Bally.

Let's hear it Sports Fans. How many want to know the trick ? You can make your donations to my Paypal account

I'll be right back.

#1033 8 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I think I found some originals so I’m good! This thing is cleaning up great too. Can’t wait to play! Probably be done in a week or so after getting some parts in.

Well, you need to know how to do this, anyway

Look at the bracket that holds the drop targets in position. On the Stern unit the bracket is positioned so the target land is down low and hidden from view. On the Bally assembly, the bracket is positioned so the land is all the way to the top.

IMG_9845 (resized).JPG

IMG_9846 (resized).JPG

If you want to use Bally target in a Stern assembly all you have to do is turn that bracket over.

IMG_9848 (resized).JPG

I could fix this so I could keep the one Bally target and the two Stern targets by filing off the extension that Stern added onto the landing area.

The only difference between the two assemblies is how that bracket locates. You can mix Bally and Stern targets in the the Stern assembly and you can also mix them up in the Bally assembly by making a minor mod to the Stern targets.

EDIT: This pic got deleted. It shows the difference between the targets.

IMG_9850 (resized).JPG

#1041 8 months ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

Pretty cool find! However, I would bet that Stern made theirs that way for one important reason (outside of patent infringement) - bricking! Bally drop targets brick a lot more than Sterns.

Quoted from dothedoo:

One word: Sweepability

Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:

Owing a bunch of both brands, my unscientific thoughts on how much each one bricks, I would agree with that. My Stern target assemblies with Stern targets definitely drop cleaner than my Bally's

One other option if anybody really needs to get a Bally target to work would be to take a trashed target and cut a small strip of plastic and add the Stern style extension to the Bally target. For anybody who has put model car/plane kits together this would be easy to do.

Or perhaps you could juice up your Bally's action by putting some Stern targets in.

#1050 8 months ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Issue with a Hot Hand.
The drop targets are supposed to score 500 points when hit, and 2000 points when the 4X lamp is lit. On my machine, sometimes that happens. But most of the time it starts scoring points like mad, sometimes it stops when you drain the ball, but other times I have to shut the thing off to stop the scoring.
I t has a brand new NVRAM Weebly MPU that I have triple-checked for the correct game settings. The solder joints for the diodes and caps on each drop target are tight. On the Switch Matrix, all five of the DT switches are on Strobe 3 with the other 3 switches unused.
Before I go ripping off a bunch of perfectly good caps and diodes, is there something else to look for?
Thanks,
Alan

Make sure you don't have a switch that has come out of adjustment. Many switches have their own type of sound when activated. You might try this: Manually activate each switch and see if you can ID the problem switch by the sound it makes. And if it is rolling up points maybe it will roll 500 points, barely stop and then roll another 500. And another. Then look at the switches that score 500 points. And diodes and caps can go bad while the solder joints still look good.

To help with isolating switches, you might try blocking 3 or 4 switches with some business card paper. Block 3 or 4 and if the points are still rolling you need to isolate some different switches.

#1054 8 months ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

If your switches still have the original pancake caps cut one leg off or remove them entirely. These things dry out and fail causing all sorts of issues in the switch matrix. The game will play ok with them removed but can be replaced for $.12 each.

This would be a fast way to isolate a problem. If that don't do it then replace the diodes. They are cheap and easy to replace.

#1069 8 months ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Here's the upshot: not a diode problem, a switch adjustment problem. When the jack or queen drop target fell, their switch contacts appeared to be closed as they should. But there was just a hair's breadth gap between them so that (I guess) that the voltage jumped across this miniscule gap and vibration kept it jumping and the switch continued to rack up points. If anyone has a better explanation I'd love to hear it, as I actually have been wrong before! My wife can explain in detail. Adjusted these switches and the machine works great. Going up for sale soon. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Thanks for posting the solution.

#1079 8 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Had to downvote that lol. Only solid state that should be on 5 ball is joker poker.

I have my Big Game set to 5 Ball. It is the only way I have any chance lighting up all 27 lights in those bingo cards. You can downvote me but it is staying on 5

#1097 7 months ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

Should I keep the PC Fan mod?

I cannot see a reason for keeping the fan.

#1099 7 months ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

Thing sounds like a DC-9 spooling when you turn it on. It's really something!

Your plastics: I would keep the good ones. Especially the inlane plastics if not broken. There is a factory mod that adds a short ball guide under the plastic at the flipper to take the ball stresses and protect your inlane plastics. Mine has the mod ( I assume from the factory). I have some spare ball guides that will probably work if you need any.

Mine has a hole on the back of the back box for a fan. Beats me.

#1101 7 months ago
Quoted from Winger03:

See this archived ad - he has nearly a full set of plastics for sale. I just bought one of the pieces shown in his set, it was delivered quickly and easily.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/75280

The problem with that set is the plastic that is always broken is broken on this set, as well. In this case, there are 2 pieces of a particular plastic. Both are broken. It is better than what Levi has so he might be able to make it work for cheap.

#1103 7 months ago
Quoted from Winger03:

Ah, I get it. Mine are not broken and I did not know there was one always susceptible to breakage. I bought the left side out-lane one - I still need the right one to replace my chipped one so if anyone has a lead on one, I'd appreciate it.

I can't fix your chipped one but you should consider getting some .030" Polycarbonate/Lexan and make your self a couple of protectors to keep them from chipping.

I mentioned the factory mod but I still think a piece of poly would be better to protect those two pieces.

You should also consider making a poly protector for that piece up in the back that likes to break.

#1106 7 months ago