I bet stern is considering rerunning this for sure. Interested to see if they try it. I doubt they would do anything other than Star Gazer and Seawitch though.
(Topic ID: 225496)
Linked Games
Ali
Stern Electronics, 1980-
Big Game
Stern Electronics, 1980
-
Catacomb
Stern Electronics, 1981
-
Cheetah
Stern Electronics, 1980
-
Cosmic Princess
Stern Electronics, 1979
-
Dracula
Stern Electronics, 1979
-
Dragonfist
Stern Electronics, 1981
-
Flight 2000
Stern Electronics, 1980
There are more than 8 games linked to this topic.
Click here to show all linked games
Click here to show all linked games
Topic Gallery
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider chuckwurt.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Quoted from BrianBannon:I remember playing Split Second
Played at pinburgh last year and I thought it was pretty fun. Would like to find one again.
I need to find a cheetah to go with my big game. I’m sure I’ll be looking for a long time, if not, forever though. Never even hear it mentioned in casual conversation, let alone see one for sale.
Quoted from dothedoo:The biggest thing I didn't like about Fathom was the reversed inlane/outlanes. Bally did so much of that in the early 80's and it was a real turn off for me (M/M PacMan included)
This was way overused. I agree. Once or twice then be done with it.
Quoted from snyper2099:I would possibly be interested if you were local.
Haha. I was going to text you.
1 week later
Quoted from Shapeshifter:Why does game have to be off? Will do this.
Danger danger! High voltage!!
Quoted from Shapeshifter:I was able to put connector from display 2 into 3 and display is still garbled. Not had time to swap yet.
Does this mean display 3 is at fault or could it be a board fault - not sure what controls it?
If the issue follows the display, your issue is the display. If it doesn’t, they your issue is elsewhere.
1 week later
Quoted from Quench:Anyone hoping for Freefall plastics to get made?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-freefall-plastic-set-interest-check
Can’t you just order them from CPR with their new system?
Quoted from Mitch:Has CPR ever made them before?
Not sure. From what I understand as long as they have a donor set, glass, or playfield, of something they do not already have, they can make it. Maybe I understood wrong.
Quoted from DRDAVE:I may be interested in 1 or 2 PDI for the Stern widebody.
**Also be very careful with Stern playfield glass.** The lockdown bar receiver lip sits too close to the glass causing it to easily scratch when taking the glass out or in. You need to carefully lift the glass while moving the glass so it doesn't scrape against it.
The easy fix for this is to pound the tip of a bamboo skewer into both of the plastic channels the glass enters into. This makes the glass elevated a few milliliters enough to clear the lip with out too much effort/caution when removing/installing glass. And no more **SCreeeeeecchhh!** =)
Never had this issue on mine.
1 week later
Stern obviously made this for nonpinheads. Had this been for pinheads it would’ve been a seawitch. I was so excited when Dwight hinted to me that they were considering revisiting classic sterns. Just wish it was to remake them.
Quoted from Completist:Ok Classic Sterners. Just looking for some quick input on what people regard as important in terms of desirability/ value in these games. The Seawitch i got in a package deal needs some board work. Typically i’m fussy about keeping these older games original (of course i dont keep old worn out rubbers in them ). But i do have an Altek i can throw in it. So does the type of boards you have matter much - from a “collectibility” perspective?
No. Fully working game with no hacks is the most important thing.
Quoted from Completist:Cool thanks. And that was quick! For certain things i think it’s important to “upgrade” like installing a beefier rectifier board to bulletproof that area of the game so to speak.
I’ve seen fs ads where people highlight that the serial numbers for the boardsets match. So thought there was something to that.
I think it just helps tell the games story more. If the thing is a complete Frankenstein game, might mean there’s some unpleasant surprises in store.
1 week later
Quoted from Tsskinne:So it was the furthest fuse to the right on the rectifier board, it tested okay but swapping it out made the game come back to life. My right flipper is still causing the lights to flicker, I only gave it 2 flips this time before shutting it off. I double checked my wiring from the original and its definitely correct. I tried swapping the EOS wires and no change. I replaced the diodes on the coil itself (the coil is brand new from Pinball Life), any other ideas?
Does it work fine if you put the old parts back in?
Quoted from rollitover:So...
a non-working, relatively clean Quicksilver was just sold here in Mn for...
-hold onto your hats- $5k
At least that was the asking price and a PM was sent within a few hrs. Soon after the machine was listed as sold and the marketplace ad taken down.
So...
I suppose all those other owners of Quicksilver are all licking their chops and dreaming about the pile of cash this payday of a machine might garner.
Thoughts?
Yeah I was surprised by that. When I find a cheetah I hope the owner doesn’t want that much. Haha.
Anyone got a cheetah? Haha
Quoted from klr650:I really need to get a Facebook account...I was hoping it was just a fad (like photographing food).
I gave it the boot a few years ago. Then got back on like a year ago. I use it for pinball stuff only. You can delete everything else so all you see is pinball stuff. If I couldn’t do that, I’d still be off it.
Quoted from Its_me_aj:Any recommendations for fixing drop target brick shots?
Loosen the springs.
Quoted from Its_me_aj:Just stretch them out a bit?
That or try a different spring that’s not as tight.
1 month later
1 month later
Quoted from Alan_L:On my Hot Hand, the feature lamps glow at the proper brightness during Attract mode and gameplay. But in Test mode they are much dimmer. Is this by design or a problem?
Design.
2 weeks later
Quoted from statictrance:There's a Cheetah for sale in Cleveland on FB Marketplace - Playfield is a little planked, but $2,500. Throwing it here cause I know a few people were talking about trying to find one.
Link? I cannot find it.
Quoted from statictrance:Holy crap I can't find it either. I saw it across three groups this morning when I was getting ready for work - it must have been snatched up that quick.
No worries. I doubt I’ll be quick enough if something pops up this time of year. Oh well. I’ll keep looking.
Quoted from greatwichjohn:There is a chance that Big Game will be my third title. Waiting for the art, & I can get a local wall hanger back for cnc. Might need some help fixing the art. I will have a print for TPF to see how it looks. The donor of scan can jump in if he wants.
I’ll be ready to buy when they are ready to ship.
Anyone know if we can get tombstones drop targets anywhere? I need one with a star on it, but I’ll settle for anything if it’s a tombstone. Will the Bally ones that PBR have work in Stars?
Thanks. I guess I’ll have to go that route. Restore the five good originals I have then crop a repro.
Quoted from cottonm4:Oh yes. A Bally drop target WILL work in a Stern drop target assembly. You can even mix and match. I have been thinking on this for a few weeks. These posts galvanized me into action. I'm eating dinner right now and can post pics once I am done eating.
Keep in mind that Stern copied more than Bally's boards from Bally.
Let's hear it Sports Fans. How many want to know the trick ? You can make your donations to my Paypal account
I'll be right back.
I think I found some originals so I’m good! This thing is cleaning up great too. Can’t wait to play! Probably be done in a week or so after getting some parts in.
Quoted from snyper2099:I have a couple star ones I found if you need some...
Yes please! Thanks dude. I can get them from you at league or next tournament.
Also, the previous owner of this game was a big time cheater!! Haha
678E3106-E8F0-481C-A8FE-16EEC6240F1E (resized).jpegCouple of my inserts popped out of stars while I was cleaning the underside of the playfield.
What kind of glue should I use to put them back in? Any dos and don’ts? Never done it before.
Quoted from Arcade:I have always just use a few dots of super glue. Never had an issue.
But do not use glues that expand or foam up like Gorilla glue.
I have lots of regular classic super glue. I’ll do that. Thanks!
Quoted from Xtraball:Chuckwurt you’re missing the posts by the outlanes. I’d think that would make this already fun game even tougher. Is that what you’re going for?
Yes sir. This thing is basically an EM. I may put it on 5 ball as compensation.
Quoted from Mitch:Had to downvote that lol. Only solid state that should be on 5 ball is joker poker.
May! Haha. Sorry man I run tournaments. My Grand Prix is 3 ball. Does that make up for it?
Quoted from cottonm4:I have my Big Game set to 5 Ball. It is the only way I have any chance lighting up all 27 lights in those bingo cards. You can downvote me but it is staying on 5
I have a hunch he has EBs on too. 
Quoted from Mitch:Had to downvote that lol. Only solid state that should be on 5 ball is joker poker.
Was thinking about it this some more. How would you setup the SS versions of Hot Tip, or Grand Prix? How about the EM version of Mata Hari?
Quoted from Tsskinne:I stick hard and fast to the 3 ball SS, 5 ball EM mantra.
So if you had the SS version of Grand Prix it would be 3 ball. Then the EM version would be 5 ball?
Interesting. I base my decision on game times usually.
Quoted from thirdedition:As far as I know they should be. What board do you have in Stars at the moment?
I will have to check. I have like 3 spare stern and Bally lamp boards that I’d like to try one to help me diagnose two lamps that don’t work. I’ll look at the model numbers and see if any match the Stars board.
Quoted from thirdedition:As far as I am aware the Stern and Bally boards are interchangeable. I think some Bally games had expansion boards for more lights, but I don't know if Stern did.
Either way the base board should be good to go in either.
Cool. Thanks brah.
Swapped in another lamp board last night and I still have a couple bad lamps. Sockets and connections are good. I’ll dig deeper to test the board components when I get more time.
Quoted from CrazyLevi:I just got a Flight 2K for free!
That's really all I want to say.
Pretty worn out but it actually works. Can't wait to clean this one up and get it playing nice.
Should I keep the PC Fan mod?
I don't usually buy new plastic sets especially for beaters but figured in this case I'd splurge.
Just did that for Stars. Most were broken though.
F2K is a great game. Very rewarding multiball and hard as hell to get to.
Quoted from CrazyLevi:This one has the busted plastics at the maze - check out the cool clown mod!
Most sets are like that. There's 2 plastics that are always broken but I guess it doesn't make sense just to sell those.
I'll keep the spare slings and throw the rest out probably.
Yeah if they are scratched or cracked I keep them mist in case. I don’t try to save if broken in half.
I’ve had mine for like a year and I’ve gotten to Multiball like 3 times. Pretty much the only way to break a million.
Quoted from CrazyLevi:I got it a few times today, but the game has dead rubber still and nothings been rebuilt but the drops.
Seems like the hard part is BLASTOFF and then it just falls
Into place.
Cool speech on this reminds of Berzerk!
Yeah it’s sweet. I took the star posts out from the top of the lane guides and regretted it 2 games later, but never switched back. This one is restored so it’s fast and mean.
Quoted from statictrance:If you have a good control game - right spinner all day (if it's properly spinning). a perfect spinner shot that hits the 3 bank through the orbit is one of the most satisfying classic Stern shots out there and adds 500/spin each completion.
Tough to survive that shot on my game. The outlanes are hungry!
Quoted from dothedoo:What do you mean?
I took the posts out I circled in green.
69288CA9-3F74-4765-BF6E-4597D0303321 (resized).jpeg
The game is so nasty now.
Quoted from CrazyLevi:Why did you remove the posts? Is that a standard tournament move or you just wanted quick games?
It looked like the ball wouldn’t even fit in the gap if I left them in. So took them out. Game is very hard, but I think it’s fair. Punishes you for missed shots. And like I said, making Multiball is VERY rewarding. It’s basically a wizard mode on this thing.
Quoted from bluespin:If you take the rings off the plastic post the post may break, but they’re cheap to replace. If you remove the post completely; the ball will break the outlane plastic at its top, you will develop wear on the playfield where the post was. When you replace the post later there will be playfield wear showing around that post
Disagree. I have plastic protectors on and the game is clear coated with Mylar over the old holes. Lots of games later, still good as new.
Quoted from dothedoo:What if you took out the posts above the special lights on the outlanes?
When I did it it was between those and the lane guide ones. I went lane guides.
Quoted from CrazyLevi:I’m starting to see it chuckwart’s way. Game seems really easy. Just got 1.6 and two multiballs in one game.
Might be post-rippin’ time!!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Haha. Do it! Posts don’t last long in most of my games. This one they didn’t even last one ball.
Same with Stars. But those might go back in if I put it to 3 ball. I need more time on it though.
Quoted from CrazyLevi:I also may make it a little less steep as suggested. I just like games to play steep and fast but I also agree it can make it easier - less side to side and easier to trap.
Yeah too steep can be bad. This Stars I have has two short legs on the front. Too steep. Not that it’s too easy, but the shots aren’t right. Even with rebuilt flippers the ball doesn’t get back to the top of the playfield easily through the spinners.
Quoted from Mitch:Are the plastic rings avalible anywhere?
If no longer available I have at least one of them new along with some other parts for those types of pop bumpers.
Quoted from Mitch:So cheetah doesnt use the plastic ones correct?
Quoted from kickabit:No, Cheetah also has plastic pops. I believe it was the first to have them.
Bummer. Haha
Quoted from CrazyLevi:If you are NEVER Getting multiball, I think your game is set too hard.
If I played it regularly still, I’d say it was once every 30 games or so.
At the end of the day it’s almost blind luck getting the inner inlanes.
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:Rarely getting multiball here. Outlane and center posts are stock. I'd rather multiball be difficult, because that was the crowning achievement of any early SS multiball game. The big goal was to get multiball. The only thing wrong with MB on F2K is what do you do when you have it?
Profit. Left spinner all day and collect blastoff letters. The bonus x advance target also spots blast off letters. Goal is to be right back ready to start MB after your current MB drains.
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:I just wish there were actually more of a reward for getting multi-ball - would love someone to re-work the rule set.
Like what? I think the rules are pretty great. Spinners are worth a ton, targets help you advance to next multiball when they didn’t before. Game doesn’t lock you out of progress to the next MB.
At least it does something. Most MBs from this era add multiple balls and that’s it. Nothing else is different. Haha
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:Exactly! That is what I was saying. Get MB, and then what? Get more MB. I just wished it had a MB PF multiplier on the PF. 2x for 2 balls in play and 3x for 3 balls in play. It would give more incentive to keep all balls in play like a lot of early classic WMS games with MB.
Solid idea for playfield multiplier but you get that already essentially with the ridiculous left spinner value.
Those PF x rules didn’t come out until like sorcerer I don’t think.
Quoted from ChipScott:Speaking of flippers, after playing a few games, while everything in the game is functioning and scoring appropriately, whule taking some second and third looks at the flipper mechanisms, I noticed that the coil at the upper flipper (that hits the media targets) was quite hot. Functional, not burnt, actually looks like a newish coul, but hot to the touch. All the wires seemed appropriately placed and well soldered. Any ideas?
Make sure the EOS switch is opening when the flipper is engaged.
Quoted from ChipScott:Thanks for your reply Chuck. I did take a look at the EOS switch. It is closed to start and does open well when the flipper is engaged. Maybe just a replacement EOS? It does look rather old...
Certainly wouldn’t hurt things. Rebuild all three flippers while you’re in there.
Quoted from Methos:Speaking of Stern flippers, why do the rebuild kits cost so much more than all the other types of kits?
Yeah it stinks but just glad they are available. Just got four flippers rebuilt for a jungle lord for the cost of two stern flippers. Haha
Quoted from FatPanda:I'm trying to sort out a Tilt lamp issue I'm having on a Stars that I'm babysitting for a buddy of mine. The tilt switch works (kills the coils on the current ball until it drains;no bonus). I've replaced the SCR, reflowed the solder to the pins on the board, checked to make sure the wire is in the right spot on the plug (position 10), changed the crimp contact on the wire, checked continuity from the lamp to the board (to the pin on the back of the board) and it's all good. There are no burnt traces or lifted pads on the board (it's in good shape). The lamp doesn't work in test mode, but when grounding the SCR to a TP1, it will light (as verified by my wife, I haven't seen it myself, she said it was dim). The lamp doesn't flick when the game is initially turned on.
Any thoughts?
I think the only other pieces to the puzzle are the associated chip and resistor.
Quoted from FatPanda:I checked the resistor and it sees an ohm value of 2.5 IIRC; it's in line with whatever the others are, so the resistor is good. I don't have a great way to check the chip. I was asked to connect a logic probe to it, but don't have one (I should get one). Instead, I was asked to see what voltage it pulled in test mode and the DMM jumped from 0-20-0 etc. If a logic probe will give me better information, I'll get one.
I’m learning this process still but apparently if you jump 5v from a TP to the leg of the associated resistor that goes to the chip, and the light comes on, the chip is bad. If the light doesn’t come on, the SCR is bad.
That’s all I’ve got and it’s possible I’m misunderstanding what a friend told me. Haha
Quoted from FatPanda:Hmm..I'm going to wait before I try anything that might do further damage
Don’t blame ya. For me I figured I could swing away on this board as worst case I need to pay $100 for a brand new one.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:When I rebuilt my Lightning I had 4 flippers to do. I already had new coil sleeves, so I saved some money by ordering the plunger and links, coil stops, springs, EOS, and bushings. I just re-used the cranks and set screws cause they were fine. I did have to order a couple base plates though because the holes to attach the coil stops were stripped out. In hindsight, I would probably just order the whole assy if I had to do it again. I've rebuilt tons of flippers on all types of games over the years and I found these to be a PITA.
I did my big game piece meal too. If I did it again I’d do the full assemblies too. Then have extra parts.
For the other Stars owners, I rebuilt the flippers in mine with new everything. I feel like the flippers travel a bit too high. I set them right on the roll pin with rubbers off, they are in line with the guide. the tips travel to just below the doubt and triple bonus inserts.
I have the later flipper mechs on them. The ones with the plastic linkage, not the bakelite.
EDIT. watched some videos and it seems my game is pretty typical.
Quoted from Mitch:Just picked up a big game today another classic stern to the collection.
The best classic stern. Congrats!
Quoted from Chalkey:Maybe I'm not tracking what you're saying but a new flipper mech will have more bounce because it doesnt have the slop in it the old linkage will from decades of use. That being the case what you think of as feeling right is just being used to playing with worn out mechs.
yeah in my experience, even if you rebuild with new bakelite linkages, you are going to get that bounce when the flipper comes to rest. It annoys me for sure, but rather have that than a mech that doesn't move smoothly.
2 weeks later
Not sure if the big game owners know about this, but there is a nice replacement option for your bingo card light boxes you can get here need to buy the twist in sockets separately. I also linked a sheet that shows the mapping of the wires.
Wiring diagram:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/19sZoDc1MHa73RKTqZHUNUDDT7DLCRHlGP695ltOndps
If you have a Big Game you know how shitty those light boxes are.
Quoted from Thrillhouse:Im having some issues on my Stars with the switch matrix causing the mpu to reset. Can anyone confirm for me if the ball needs to be in the trough for a mpu 100 (stars specifically) to to credit up? Closing that switch causes the reset which is making trouble shooting difficult.
Nope. Leave the ball out.
4 weeks later
Got to put a few games on Cheetah and Dragonfist at Ann Arbor. Loved both of them, but confirmed that I really, really, want a Cheetah. Haha
1 week later
Quoted from chubtoad13:Is there a resource for instruction cards for this era? Specifically looking for Stars and Flight 2000.
Ipdb.org
Quoted from dothedoo:I used Novus 2 on a nice original Xenon playfield and it started wearing like crazy.
That was the last time anything abrasive touched any of my playfields for general cleaning.
Surprising. I’ve used N2 then wax on my big game for thousands and thousands of plays and I just had someone over that thought I had it clear coated at some point.
1 week later
Take the outlane posts out of meteor to increase difficulty.
I prefer my classics with the back legs jacked all the way up and front all the way down. Like pictured above. All mine are like that. Haven’t had any complaints.
Quoted from dothedoo:This is true. Another example is the top lock on Firepower. I rebuilt my flippers with all new parts and new coils too. At 5.8 degrees I had a 75% success rate. At 5.9 degrees it dropped to 50% and 6.0 degrees it dropped to about 10%. No perceivable decrease in ball speed or flipper power, but the results didn’t lie.
Firepower absolutely needs the newer Williams flipper mechs. Makes the game WAY better.
1 week later
2 weeks later
Quoted from getadam:Hey Dragonfist owners. I've got good news. I recently bought a Dragonfist and desperately wanted new plastics.
So, I contacted CPR and we worked out a deal to move them into production. They are already in progress and they will be out later this year and for sale to the general public!
So glad I could give back to the community a bit. And thanks crazylevi for turning me on to Classic Sterns and gizmonic for your Dragonfist (and Stargazer) streams. You guys really got me into these awesome games.
Can you have them make big game playfields too? I didn’t have any luck. 
Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
Reno, NV
Quoted from Mitch:I tried too even had a playfeild I could have sent.
They said they barely sold any plastic sets so they wont run the playfield.
Well at least they were direct with you. They told me the new process isn’t up yet, so they couldn’t do it.
Mirco says he’s too busy. I got a good used playfield I’m willing to donate to any maker. Just tell me where to send it.
Quoted from chubtoad13:I’m having some issues with my solenoid driver board on Stars. I believe it’s a few bad transistors. I ordered some, but it got me thinking that a replacement solenoid board may be an upgrade.
Has anyone experienced a noticeable difference in coil performance using an alltek or weebly board over the original?
Nope. Use with confidence. Especially WEEBLy.
Quoted from chubtoad13:I’m confused. Should I use the original with confidence and weebly is the worst, or should I use weebly with confidence?
You only asked one question in your post. I was answering that. No issues with alltek or weebly. Especially weebly. Andrew is a good dude and knows his stuff.
Quoted from chubtoad13:I must’ve worded my question weird. I meant to ask if there’s a benefit to switching if the original board works.
My bad. Thanks for the replies.
Oh okay. If you have a solid original definitely don’t buy a replacement. I might recommend to have a spare of each board for troubleshooting purposes, but that’s a bit overkill unless you’re operating lots of games or fixing lots of games.
Quoted from Tsskinne:Guy told me it was mine for $600. Shortly after he said he took $750, so thanks for whoever did that greatly appreciated.
Dammit. I was going to call first dibs for when you went to sell. Haha
1 month later
1 week later
Quoted from HHaase:Their new business model also plays a lot into it I'm sure, since they can now 'build to order', and don't have to risk a full production run on a lesser known title.
-Hans
Have they started this yet though? I haven’t seen anything outside of their regular runs.
1 week later
I rebuilt my Big Game flippers 5 years ago and haven’t had to touch them since. Maybe one of the coil stops, but that’s it.
Pinball life for me too.
1 month later
Quoted from Tsskinne:Haha I saw that post and figured this is where it came from. It sounded like he was keeping it bassed on his initial post or I would have inquired about it as well. Maybe we need a classic stern row at PATZ next year?
I might be able to help with that. Been meaning to get to PATZ.
Quoted from grandy:That’s s good guess, but the upper flipper was working before I tore the playfield down, so who knows!
Probably for lane change or to enter initials then. 
1 month later
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:Rebuilding drops is never quick. Bringing a catacomb back to life.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Here’s to no bricking or having issues with them falling upon reset. Fingers crossed!
2 weeks later
Quoted from rotordave:Haha! I use them on everything.
If they’re good enough for WPCs, they’re good enough for the oldies.
Never once had an issue.
(And yes ... flippers will be coming out .. one is a Williams flipper. Ha!)
rd
On the flip side, I got a pool sharks with classic bally flippers on it. The ball hop was so insane you could hop the ball to the other flipper. Haha
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:You about to upgrade your Big Game to a nicer one?
No just feel like I’m taking crazy pills. Reddit folks seem to think 750 for what looks like a perfect big game is standard. Haha
Quoted from frunch:Could anyone tell me what type of bolts I'll need for attaching the head to the cabinet on a Stars? I think i have the pitch/diameter, just need to know the length.
Thanks!
Take one out of seawitch to the hardware store and buy a bunch of them. They should work in most every game.
Quoted from cottonm4:Perfect. Why didn't I think of an answer like that.
I just did it the other day so it was fresh on my mind. Haha
1 month later
Quoted from tatman9999:How about cheetah and Big Game[quoted image]
They might be the two best early sterns. Would love to set a cheetah next to my big game. Someday.
3 months later
Quoted from Tyamry:I'm looking for some opinions on what you guys think this Stars is worth. TIA[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The new boards are a plus i guess. Touch ups everywhere Backglass is okay. Probably around 1000.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:If only we could get all the different stern drops reproed properly it would be a magical day.
And in tombstone form!
My big game has these carriage bolts that are used as posts for certain areas (slings, GA targets, etc). Can we buy these anywhere? And any suggestions for getting the old ones out? The nuts holding the Star posts in are corroded to the threaded carriage bolt post and it just spins with the nut.
Thanks!
I can’t get the nut on the top side that is above the star post to budge at all the carriage bolt just spins with it. I don’t care to keep it or replace, but I can’t get this old one out to replace with something else. There’s only two of them so I just didn’t replace those two star posts for now.
I replaced all the red star posts with green. Loving the way it looks. Replaced all the green rubber I had everywhere with translucent too. Looking nice.
Quoted from TheLaw:Straight Dremel homie.
Yeah. Believe it or not I’ve made it this long without one. I guess I need to get one finally.
Quoted from cottonm4:Where did you get the green posts? I want to see.
Titan pinball.
B24DBC18-388A-46AD-8D25-CE98FA948067 (resized).jpeg
Just realized my one spinner looks like he’s winking at ya. Haha
Quoted from dothedoo:No Dremel? Dude, you’re a masochist.
I actually have one for my dogs nails. Haha. Still trying to figure out if I can get different attachments for it to make it like a normal dremel.
Quoted from dothedoo:Is that the battery operated one with the high/low switch? If so, it runs too slow for cutting, but is definitely useful for other tasks.
Yeah battery powered. I would probably only need a dremel for stuff like this so I’ll look into the corded version.
3 months later
2 weeks later
Quoted from Quench:I like to think a dead bounce is also better off a flipper bat resting on the pin.
This is why I leave them in.
1 month later
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:Nineball pics. If you need higher res just message me
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks!
1 week later
Or email PBR for help. They are always good about finding what you need if you know the games name and at least have a picture of what you want with a description.
2 weeks later
Quoted from sofaspud:Hey John - how about Big Game? Decent production numbers and a lot of survivors.
That would be awesome! But who has the art ready to go to give to him?
Then you’ll need to concentrate on games they have said they have no interest in making. Big game is at the top of the list in that dept. imo. I wish I knew how to get you the proper art files.
Quoted from NeilMcRae:someone find John an nineball art
those stargazer play fields look awesome!
Mirco has the nine ball playfield you seek.
5 months later
Quoted from cottonm4:One problem we have been discussing is how the ball gets held up in the launch chute after the outhole kicker launches the ball. Like the rest of you, I have backed off on the screws that attach the launch trough at the shooter lane.
My Big Game has been a bit of a struggle with this annoying action. And this Star Gazer I am building was doing the same thing. I think I have the solution.
-------------------------------------------
This is Big Game. Look familiar? The ball is hanging right at the edge. Maybe you can shake it out, or maybe you have to pull the glass so you can fling the ball back to the outhole for another launch.
[quoted image]
This is what I have done with my Star Gazer build. And the ball hang up problem has disappeared. I rolled the sheet metal on the ball guide back a little bit. So far, this has ended the annoying ball launch hang ups. I'll cut some of the now excess metal off of the guide and straighten it back out to meet the shooter gauge.
(NOTE: The blue masking tape is there to hold the ball in position so I could take this pic. Without this tape, the ball falls right into the shooter lane).
Today's schedule will include me making this mod to Big Game. This can be done with a pair of needle nose pliers. You just need to twist the guide backwards to put on a small roll.
[quoted image]
Does this happen from the ball being weakly served from the out hole? On my game it flies out of there. Not sure how it would ever get stuck.
1 week later
1 year later
Quoted from wolftownjeff:Anyone have a pair of these is good condition?
For my Silverball Mania .
Slingshot kicker arm assembly Bally SS
#A-3459-1
Kicker arm assembly with nylon head used on early solid state Bally pinball machine slingshots.
Marco sold out.
Thanks,
Sterns use different slingshot parts than Bally. Might want to post a wanted ad.
1 week later
Quoted from wolftownjeff:Switch screws are not touching the coil (just looks like in the pic, keen eye).
EOS switch opens nice and wide with plenty of gap.
The game has all new Altek boards in it.
I am lucky enough to live near the company and will stop by tomorrow (by appt.) and Dave has offered to test the boards for me.
I want to make sure the boards are not damaged.
thanks
Unrelated, but I think you may have Bally flippers in your game too.
Quoted from wolftownjeff:Left coil is a green wrapped Marco replacement labeled as mentioned.
Right coil is original Stern in yellow wrapper.
I meant the actual flipper bat.
1 week later
Quoted from hisokajp:i have a weird one of my own, trying to help a friend with a miss behaving Stars. Has a Alltek MPU and SDB in it, it was working fine on location until a couple weeks ago.
several of the coils do not fire during game or test. I just popped in another Alltek SDB to see if the issue was with the other board, i swear all the started working for a bit during the test (at least i think they were) but i tried a test game right away and the exact same coils were dead... Right sling, upper pop, drop target reset...
The coils have power and grounding the tab make them work. The Connectors to the board are originals but do not look bad... I am not sure if i am missing something obvious?
Did you check the fuse under the playfield?
Edit. Sorry just saw you confirmed they are getting power.
Cheetah : Continued Switch Matrix issues (scratch build game)
Here is what happens.
When you rip the left spin Target, various switches in that same row will register, but mainly the pop bumper. Also the GI lights flicker and the displays get all garbled.
I've tried the following:
Used a switch tester board at the mpu and all switches register in test with nothing weird occurring. I'm 99.9% this isn't a board issue especially since the behavior is the same with the big game board installed. PIA at U10 already replaced with a known working one, and swapped in another known working MPU, no change.
I've replaced the diodes on every switch in this row.
I've followed the white/black wire through the whole row of switches and notice no shorts anywhere.
Even if I remove the strobe wire or the return wire from the spinner switch, I still get weird behavior with switches in the same row registering including the spinner switch somehow. Haha.
Not sure what to try next, but it has to be in my wiring of the playfield/cabinet somewhere.
C16873F6-F4B8-469F-8731-C0DF625968A5 (resized).jpeg
Then I did this:
I removed the spinner switch from the playfield. Left it wired up and attached to the spinner arm that attaches to the spinner itself. What’s weird is even if I hold the switch open, when I move the spinner back and forth, the displays garble and lights flicker.
The spinner bracket attaches via posts on either side that do not go all the way through the playfield.
Quoted from cottonm4:I'm interested in hearing how the dumb luck found your problem.
First I thought it was loose screw that was lodged in one of the pop mechs. But that didn’t fix the issue. It was what I mentioned just above about the two screws meeting in the middle of the playfield wood to make a connection/short.
Quoted from clodpole:Hey chuckwurt, what did the lamp flicker look like? Did all the GI lamps blink in unison?
No. Mostly just some backbox lights.
Quoted from frunch:I would be tempted to give that pair their own little section with some tall plants and decor to really give it that "jungle" aesthetic
Congrats!!!
I have jungle queen too. Haha
Quoted from evanc:There are plenty of posts in this thread about using this exact assembly in these games. And the trident I bought uses them, as installed by the previous owner. Happy to set it back to standard if there are replacement parts out there—feel free to point me to them if my research has missed them instead of saying I should be beaten unconscious for asking a question, weirdo. It’s a stretch to read any part of my post as a complaint about pinball life. Just asking for advice on a part I got from them. I’m sure they’ve got a whole big bin of these that don’t have this particular issue they can send me, if this one does in fact have an issue.
Quoted from clodpole:Different subject:
Have you ever seen factory documentation on how to set playfield pitch on these early Sterns? I know we each have our own preference, but what did the factory recommend?
Between 6.0-6.5 I believe.
Quoted from hisokajp:a lot of people just go all the way down in the front (some people even remove the nut from the leveler) and all the way up on the back with a 3" leveler, whatever pitch that ends up being
This is the way.
1 week later
Quoted from cottonm4:Good fortune stopped in my driveway yesterday.
In my best The Price is Right voice. AN EMPTY CAB !! Come on down !
I love Stadium Lights. I like the way they light up the play field. Some will tell you that Stadium Lights will work with the 40 year old low-sidewall cabinets. Yeah, they work---sort of.
This cab is my next project. I am going to either build a Seawitch or a Star Gazer using this high sidewall cabinet and light it up with Stadium Lights.
What should I make it to be? Star Gazer with Stadium Lights? Or Seawitch with Stadium Lights?
[quoted image]
I got the back box as well, but it looking it closer, it will take too much to make work for a Stern so I am just going to scratch build the back box in classic Stern style.
They work. I’ve put them in firepower. Just get some of the light blocked by the plastics along the sides so the don’t spread all over the playfield as well as modern games.
Quoted from tatman9999:They where all repinned
Are you sure? The pins in that connector all look corroded.
Quoted from dothedoo:I think we’re seeing the reflection of the board on shiny pins. The lettering is almost readable.
Oh okay. Good point.
2 weeks later
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:I'm probably in the minority here but I think Galaxy with the new code is better than Stars with the new code.
Well yeah. The new code for Stars is horrible.
Yeah horrible is harsh. Good effort, but stars needs nothing to be improved imo. Meteor is fun with the new stuff. Seems to be just enough added without really anything taken away.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:So back to being in the minority... I don't really understand all the broad love for Stars. I think it's good, and especially for 1978 standards it's GREAT..but I just don't love it as much as everyone else I guess. That said, I thought Galaxy was about the most boring game I'd ever played prior to the new code. Afterward, I LOVED it..but was seduced by a nice Stars which everyone said was just amazing, so I had it in my head that I definitely needed it. I don't necessarily regret it (I traded to a friend; I can and probably will get it back down the road) but I don't think I'd make that trade again if I knew what I know now. That said, I'm also super in love with Seawitch, and it seems a great many people absolutely despise it. So perhaps I'm just a weirdo.
Nothing in the 70s or 80s touches the satisfaction of hearing that deep chime pop off for 100k specials. Then before that, it’s a shooters game with very Satisfying spinner shots and cool angles on lots of shots. Shatzing is there, alley passes. Brutal. It’s the total package.
Yes. I greatly prefer the work Scott is doing. Almost all these games just need a few tweaks here and there and they are money.
1 week later
Quoted from CashMoney:Great selection of Classic Sterns at the Golden State Pinball festival! Just purchased the Big Game from a local collector.
Some rare birds here too! Never played a Cur, very interesting and unique game. Same with Viper. And someone brought an Ali with new code that was awesome.
The Cheetah was a blue cab prototype that played super fast. Wish I could afford it!
[quoted image]
How much did they ask for Cheetah?
1 month later
Quoted from mikeflan:Is there really that noticeable of a difference with the bats? I've substituted Bally bats in a pinch (TPF when one of my flippers cracked in half) and didn't feel any difference in gameplay.
You’re likely going to get flipper hop from them and on games like stars the wider Bally bat will stop the ball from draining and there won’t be enough room between the bat and the apron for the ball the pass.
1 week later
Quoted from Ollulanus:I've done all these things until I'm blue in the face unfortunately; if anything I've had more success making it worse than better, lol. I think I'll start over this afternoon and try to be more methodical about it though. Never had this much trouble, so I haven't been methodical, entirely possible I've been chasing my tail creating new issues as I solve others.
Machine guns with the rubber completely off the game I assume?
Quoted from jdzwir123:I picked up a Stingray. What a great game it is!!!!
I am having an issue though that I was going to throw out there go see if anyone else has had this happen.
My second from left chime solenoid is locked on and got cooked so I replaced it and it is still locking on.
It’s got a white/orange on one side and an orange on the other side.
I’ve looked all around and no switches looked triggered.
It’s likely the transistor that runs that coil needs replaced. It will be on the board in the head on the top left. It might be obvious and all burnt up. Or you’ll need to find the right transistor by reading the manual. Then you’ll need to test it to see if it’s shorted.
I have seen this before and never figured it out. My cheetah doesn’t play nice with caps on the switches. All it does is make the associated switch immediately register repeatedly.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Its_me_aj:Has anyone had a game that won’t set high scores? I’m working on my cheetah and it won’t set a new high scores when it’s been beat
Should be a setting. Copy of the manual on ipdb.
I got one of the first big game playfields!! Can’t wait. I hope to have time to swap early next year.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Lovef2k:F2K ball walker for eg.
I don’t know about this. It’s cool, but I’ve gone through two separate walker mechs and both have issues with not walking the balls properly, and two balls get stuck in one position and have to be manually freed.
Quoted from Lovef2k:Original pf or cpr?
CPR I think. But it’s the mech that has issues not the slots in the playfield. The fingers bind up.
Quoted from Lovef2k:Replace nyliners? I put a dab of white litho on mine almost 10 years ago and it has worked great
Thanks. The one I had and now my buddy has and is getting ready to sell. I’ll try that.
Quoted from dothedoo:Interesting. I've never had two balls stuck in one position in my Freefall unless the glass is off and a ball hops over one of the fingers. Stern used grease between the moving parts to keep them from binding. When I rebuilt mine, all parts were thoroughly cleaned and polished and I reassembled with thin brass washers between the moving parts (no lubrication). After three years I haven't had any issues with binding.
There are two designs, though, so maybe Freefall has the other design.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
That looks different than F2K.
3 months later
Having an issue on cheetah. Getting my ball in play/credit display leaking into my P3 and P4 displays. Using the UNO displays, and I have a Weebly board set in there. At first this was extremely intermittent and would go away when playing. Now it’s kind of locked on like this.
If I move the P1 and P2 connectors to the P3 and P4, the score displays work fine. So I think my displays are fine. Looks like I have an issue from the wiring on the MPU to the displays then?
Looks like it’s going away still when I start a game. But it will come back intermittently.
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider chuckwurt.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
