(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 2,517 posts
  • 207 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by Whridlsoncestood
  • Topic is favorited by 103 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #227 Various gate tips. Posted by cottonm4 (1 year ago)

Post #269 Hi quality thoughts from Cotton about inlanes. Posted by cottonm4 (1 year ago)

Post #279 Playfield touch up tips. Posted by klr650 (1 year ago)

Post #309 Stern inserts suggestions. Posted by cottonm4 (1 year ago)

Post #310 Seawitch gate flap solution. Posted by frunch (1 year ago)

Post #1033 Bally drop targets on the classic stern, even mix and match. Posted by cottonm4 (9 months ago)

Post #1958 Star Gazer podcast episode link. Posted by DRDAVE (4 months ago)

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#479 1 year ago

Here are some side by side picture comparisons of a Seawitch vs. the Beatles pin

SW Ripoff1 (resized).jpgSW Ripoff2 (resized).jpgSW Ripoff3 (resized).jpg

#488 1 year ago
Quoted from DRDAVE:

Had a Nugent....restored it up...played it for a month..sold it. Very few early Sterns make the grade I've found. Stars is THE shining star of the early Sterns. =)

Nugent is a Stern Magic re-themed with alternate art...that's why you didn't like it.

1 month later
#690 12 months ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

Has anyone had contact with BGresto, My Magic backglass looks like ass and I could really use a decent one.

He travels during the week for his day job, so he’ll be slow to respond. In other forums occasionally someone was unhappy with his work. In these situations he always redid the work. Don’t worry, he’ll be in touch with you soon

1 month later
#835 11 months ago
Quoted from jkashani:

I am having a problem with the right sling on my lightning pinball. It works in test but does not work during game play. Sometimes it may ghost work and activate when not struck by the ball. I am not a repair person and any information will be conveyed to my pinball repairman, so forgive me if I cant answer any questions as to what has been tried already but we believe that it may be a faulty cap.

The thin metal bars just inside the slingshot rubbber should be close to the rubber but not touching. It sounds like they are touching, or they are so close that when the cabinet is touched lightly it makes the rubber touch the metal bar and fires the slingshot coil. Bend the metal bars a little bit away from the rubber. This should solve the problem.

#867 10 months ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Looking for the spinning bumper assemblies on Orbitor 1, or any parts and pieces, I'd even rebuild a broken one.
Any and all help appreciated!

Parts - Wanted
Orbitor 1 Spinning BumpersNew!Wanted! “Looking for complete OR partial spinning bumper assemblies. Doesn’t have to work, I am willing to completely rebuild a broken one.
Finding TWO of these is impossible.

My Orbit...”
12 hours ago Saratoga Springs, NY

I pm'd you with some collector (hoarder) leads and some Facebook groups to try. Good luck.

#890 10 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

but what is sbm?

Silverball Mania

1 week later
#927 10 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

So every stargazer has them or just a few?
Do you have any games with them.

The common belief is that they were added to playfields that Stern felt weren’t stable enough, meaning they feared that individual playfields might buckle/sag. People have reported several titles that have the supports,but not every copy of the title does

4 weeks later
#1107 9 months ago
Quoted from Winger03:

Is that material fairly easy to source and so I make them the exact same size?

Question - how do I get the metal standoffs off of the old plastic to reuse for the new one I bought.

You can buy sheets of polycarbonate on EBay. To remove the metal standoffs (bells), place the tip of your hot soldering iron inside the bell from the bottom side. Keep moving it around every five seconds or so. After about thirty seconds total take a rag and slowly pull the bell off the plastic. If it’s still tight keep heating up the bell until it loosens up. Use the same process to apply the bell to the new plastic

#1130 9 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I took the posts out I circled in green.
[quoted image]
The game is so nasty now.

If you take the rings off the plastic post the post may break, but they’re cheap to replace. If you remove the post completely; the ball will break the outlane plastic at its top, you will develop wear on the playfield where the post was. When you replace the post later there will be playfield wear showing around that post

#1133 9 months ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

Just not a fan of pulling posts. Seems like "gettin cute" to me. Eliminates an important skill from the game.

I used to play in a lot of tournaments and if the post was a metal nail type post they would take off the ring to make the game more difficult. I don’t remember seeing this done with plastic posts

#1156 9 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Wow !! An Ali sold on Ebay for $4,075.00 + $1,500.00 shipping.
Total: $5,575.00
I did not know Ali's were in that kind of demand.
[quoted image]

Some non pinhead probably bought it because they’re a fan of Muhammad Ali. Someone on the east coast had a beautiful Ali st the York show last year and couldn’t sell it for $2,000. It’s probably the same seller and he got lucky on EBay

#1214 9 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Are the plastic rings avalible anywhere?

Not for a long time. I think Bay Area had some but sold out a long time ago

#1331 8 months ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

There's a lower layer?

I don't own this title but I think he is referring to upper layer is screened art, and lower layer is clear. It's like that on my Spectrum, and on other games like EBD.

#1345 8 months ago
Quoted from rollitover:

What is it with you Canadians
and Classic Sterns!?!
They fall out of the sky up there so it seems.

Many of them are purchased in the us and brought over the border

2 weeks later
#1424 7 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Looking for stern playfield support hangers that attach to the lockbar.
I need 4 of them. Cant use bally as they are shorter.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Kerry at Mantis Amusements sells two types. Check the pictures carefully. When I asked which were for classic Sterns he wasn’t sure.

#1434 7 months ago
Quoted from CreepyTom:

Can someone post a picture of a Stern back box circa 1980-81. Trying to figure out reconnecting the back box with all the connectors. Or if you can shoot me a link to a video. Any help would be awesome.

There are two types of pins, smaller 0.100" and larger 0.156". The salmon colored connectors go to the smaller pins on the boards. Also Stern and Bally used a key system on their pins and connectors. a key is that blank spot on your connector where a small piece of plastic was pushed into the connector so that you can't push a pin into it. Look at one of your salmon connector, let's say the fifth hole in the connector is filled with a key. If you look at all of the other salmon connectors you won't find another one that has a key, the fifth position from either end of the connector. This is to guarantee that you won't plug the connector into the wrong set of pins on the board, which could fry that board.

Williams system 6 & 7 boards used same sized connectors, so if you aren't careful you could fry a board on an older Williams game. That's why when you buy a system 6 or 7 game from an experienced collector they wil tell you to leave the connectors attached to the boards and to lay the head against the cabinet in transport, don't remove the connectors.

2 weeks later
#1477 7 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Here are pics of lectronimo with a strange cabinet.
It's almost 3 inches shorter then any other lectronamo cab and has a much thinner neck to make up the difference. 
The playfeild is still standard size. 
To make up for the thinner neck the bolt pattern in the head is very different. 3 bolts instead of 4.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Stern probably re-purposed a cabinet from another game. If sales were less than expectations on a title, standard industry practice was to redo the artwork on the cabinet and use for a new title. The other option was to break up the cabinet and toss it in a dumpster. As an example the sales of Rapid Fire were realy bad so they reused the cabinets to make Centaur II and EBD LE.

4 weeks later
#1578 6 months ago
Quoted from fisherdaman:

I have a coworker with an Ali Pinball machine with a dirty playfield. Can he use Novus to clean the playfield or should he use something else?

These early solid state (pre dmd) games are prone to planking, small cracks in the playfield. These small cracks will absorb water and swell warping the playfield. Use naphtha as it contains no water. You can buy naphtha at any home improvement store. If working indoors make sure the room is well ventilated as it’s basically lighter fluid and gives off fumes. Novus and isopropyl alcohol contain water and should be avoided for these early solid state games

#1591 6 months ago
Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:

going to have to have stencils made for it.[quoted image]

Take an older model flat bed scanner. Remove the lid, place the scanner against the side of the cabinet and start taking some scans. Send them to Jeff at Pinball Pimp and he can combine the images in photoshop and he can make stencils out of your scans

1 month later
#1844 4 months ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

I got a Meteor and a Quicksilver.
When I turn them on both of them boot up ok but hang with a sound playing. Press start starts the game and the sound goes away but I just wondered why this is happening and can I fix it?

For Seawitch and Quicksilver there is a dip switch to turn off the background noise. Meteor probably has it as well. Check your manuals.

#1847 4 months ago
Quoted from Aahzz:

Anybody happen to have a working SB-100? The board in my Dracula seems to be shorting out and I can’t find where.

Are the ones that barakandl sells through his nvram-weebly business compatible with SB-100 or only SB-300? When you find a working/new board make sure to buy a new wiring harness from nvram-weebly as they are almost always a problem, and cheap to replace.

#1877 4 months ago

Are these different from the ones that Marco’s and Pinball Rescue sell?

#1886 4 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

But I only have one that is on your wish list

Everything is available for sale at the right offering price!

#1891 4 months ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Yes! I don’t know about Pinball Rescue, but Marco’s is printed on plain paper, not foil.

So were the originals that came from the factory plain labels or metallic/shiny like the phoenix arcade version? Same question on the large coin door decal

#1910 4 months ago
Quoted from brandsilence:

Picked up a Dracula in pretty rough condition recently. Looks like i'll need to replace the lockdown bar receiver.
What's the best way to source this part?

Try this site and if you don’t see it listed email him.

#1918 4 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I understand. You are wanting the lockdown receiver. It is in the back in this pic. The two Stern bars for narrow and wide both have the same part number for the copper colored bar receiver. The black lockdown bar is the very same as the Stern narrow body with different part numbers.
All 3 of these bars are interchangeable. Other than you are not going to place a narrow body bar on wide body cab.
[quoted image]
Call Pinball Life and ask if the 500-5757-00 wide body lockdown bar will fit into the 500-6881-00 receiver. If they say it will fit then your search is over.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Craig are you saying that the receiver is the same for both wide and standard cabinets

If that lockdown bar will fit he should buy the receiver from pinball life, and buy the lockdown bar for $70 from jt amuse instead of paying pinball life $99.

#1943 4 months ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Different plates. Will fiddle with them a bit and will try and swap out led driver board with another and see if it still does it. Worst case scenario I put regular bulbs in the ones flickering.

Doesn’t the Alltek board have a switch to choose led or incandescent? Do you have incandescent in some sockets and less in others? Could that be an issue?

1 week later
#2028 3 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Have they started this yet though? I haven’t seen anything outside of their regular runs.

They’ve been doing this for plastics and backglasses for a couple of months now. If you don’t see it in stock on their site, post what you are looking for in the below forum. Check their site a week later and it should be back in stock. If not pm kevin@cpr.

By posting in that forum you’re telling Cpr they have a sale waiting. This helps them as they can prioritize what to make first. They’ll make one for you plus make a few more to place into inventory for the next customers.


#2030 3 months ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

Am in the nine ball club. Does anyone know if there is a playfield for this? I don’t need it but with my quicksilver and soon meteor about to get a new play field I will want to do nine ball.

In their September 2017 newsletter Cpr announced that they were about to produce Seawitch playfields. They also announced that they were looking for good examples of the following so they could start producing these titles:

Nine Ball playfield
Star Gazer playfield and backglass
Stars backglass

Today Seawitch is in the Boutique zone gathering interest. Since johngreatwich already sold a lot of Star Gazer playfields they’ve probably given up on that title. John is almost ready to ship Seawitch so I doubt that title will make it out of the boutique zone to normal preorders.

If you’re interested in getting Nine Ball made by Cpr I suggest that someone ask how many people in the Nine Ball forum are willing to buy one, and then email Cpr to see if they’ll do a run.

#2049 3 months ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Think it can be sandblasted?

I know a few people that might have a standard chrome lockdown bar. Pm sent

#2088 3 months ago

I have a Nugent in storage that is missing the lockdown bar receiver. There is a local collector offering a free receiver, and thinks it’s for early classic Sterns but isn’t sure. Before I do the three hour round trip can someone confirm that the receiver in the picture will work in my Nugent? Thanks

173DEBFF-7757-4EBF-A7DD-2C5FF8F05985 (resized).jpeg
#2099 3 months ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

That is a WMS receiver.

Thanks everyone. The search continues

#2106 3 months ago
Quoted from slochar:

You get airballs from the lower flippers or the upper left one? The upper left one is supposed to have a resistor to drop its strength way down - and cause a nice burn mark under the playfield. Much better way to reduce its power is to have the end of stroke switch open up WAY earlier.
I don't get the crazy airballs on mine that people see to get necessitating the protector on the plastic behind the flipper. I think ONCE a ball went up there in over 15 years of ownership??

The coils on the lower flippers on Seawitch are J-25-475/34-4500. The upper flippers are J-25-600/34-4500 to reduce the power to: prevent breaking the center bank drop targets and to prevent airballs. Some people over the years installed 475s in their upper flippers as that was all they had on hand at the time, and that is too much power for the upper flippers. I'm wondering what coils you have in your upper flippers.

#2146 3 months ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Thanks, purchased.

I would have purchased one from greatwichjohn. He’s been making high quality repro backglasses for our classic Sterns for a long time now. Cpr just started making Seawitch backglasses and people have complained about the quality of some of their backglasses in the past.

#2154 3 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I believe Cosmic Princess is in Australia only for a few more than 100 units.

336 were made. It was made as what’s known as a knockdown Kit. Only the game specific items (and a few key parts) were made by Stern and shipped to Australia; backglass, populated playfield with wiring harness, all boards, transformer, lockdown bar assembly.

Allied Leisure had to order a cabinet, legs, leg bolts, etc common parts locally in order to assemble the game. Shipping to Australia was very expensive.

1 week later
#2210 85 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Gotta have your hammered silver!!!
But as also heard it only works perfectly in over 80 degree temps, to really get the true effect.

Make sure to sand/score the legs before applying or else the paint will have nothing to adhere to and will eventually flake off.

#2228 82 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Someone is selling a Lightning back glass on CL.
dayton.craigslist.org link

Seller is Pinsider weir pinball

1 week later
#2251 75 days ago
Quoted from Chisel:

I’ve been on an early stern streak it seems. My first was Meteor awhile back which i still have. Next was a Trident. Then in the past 6 months I got a Cheetah (blue cab), Wild Fire, Stars and a Dracula. I need a lockdown bar for my Cheetah, would be great if anyone could help me out with that.

I’m sure that it’s the second one that you need here:

#2253 75 days ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Cheetah is widebody. That bar isn’t.

Good point. Didn’t think of that.

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