(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).


By Mitch

1 year ago



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Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #227 Various gate tips. Posted by cottonm4 (1 year ago)

Post #269 Hi quality thoughts from Cotton about inlanes. Posted by cottonm4 (1 year ago)

Post #279 Playfield touch up tips. Posted by klr650 (1 year ago)

Post #309 Stern inserts suggestions. Posted by cottonm4 (1 year ago)

Post #310 Seawitch gate flap solution. Posted by frunch (1 year ago)

Post #1033 Bally drop targets on the classic stern, even mix and match. Posted by cottonm4 (8 months ago)

Post #1958 Star Gazer podcast episode link. Posted by DRDAVE (73 days ago)


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#21 1 year ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

I got to be honest. I think Star Gazer is the only one worth picking up.

Quoted from snyper2099:

Nah, the only 2 mentioned thus far worth owning are Nine Ball and Stars.

Negative.

All are great games worth owning, but assuming all games are set up properly, QS is the best classic Stern experience. Period.

The new rules on SG really make it a top contender though.

Meteor is another one that when set up right is a killer game. A lot of people poo poo it for being too easy. Play one that's set up properly and you won't say that again. I've never found a great playing Meteor in the wild.

#35 1 year ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

RESIST!
These new ROMS always suck ass and serve mostly to provide Gizmonic with home field advantage at his tournaments!

That may be true, but considering I don't play in any of his tournaments it doesn't affect me.

No this code makes the game more balanced. SG is WAY too easy in stock form. Okaegi's code made it much better by requiring you to shoot the entire table. However, his code actually made it too difficult to complete all of the zodiacs. Fine for tournaments, but frustrating for home play.

The new rules enable the scoop rollovers ONLY when you complete the center DT bank. Even then, a rollover doesn't guarantee spotting a zodiac, but it does give you a better chance of getting that pesky one you can't seem to hit. The left and right DTs light the spinners so you don't lose that feature when the rollovers are disabled.

#42 1 year ago

My friend picked up a project Seawitch for $900 this spring and we both thought that was a good deal. I think it booted and played, but backglass was flaking badly and playfield had typical wear.

#94 1 year ago
Quoted from pinlawyer:

Had a 1981 Iron Maiden. Rare for a reason. Beautiful game, but man, it sucked donkey balls!

Yeah surprised nobody mentioned this one in all the remake posts. Everybody and their dog wanted one a few years ago. It was the grail classic Stern. Now nobody seems to talk about it at all.

It sure is a beautiful game, but it's the exact reason art is not part of my criteria for ownership. A game's gotta be a good player. I don't care what it looks or sounds like.

I've heard Viper is the same.....beautiful game, but a total dog. I have yet to play one.

#104 1 year ago
Quoted from pinlawyer:

I've grown to love Viper, and play it more than any other classic Stern in my lineup (which has 10 classic Sterns). The rules are great, the shots are great, if simple, and the center turret seems at first like a stupid novelty (think Hot Hand), but grows to become a fun challenge. The only part of Viper I find less than appealing is the sound.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice collection! If I'm ever in Phoenix I'll give you a buzz and you'll have to invite me over to play. State law.

#106 1 year ago

Two Quicksilvers?

#113 1 year ago
Quoted from enjoyvelvet:

Sold my non working Stargazer in original condition (old rubbers, some wear) for $2000 last year

Wow I just looked at my purchase history and I bought mine 4 years ago for the same price in the same condition (except that it was working).

I felt the price was a little high for an unrestored example, but they were getting scooped up so quickly I didn't want to miss out. I had let 2 or 3 others slip through my fingers.

If I were still looking for one I'd be ecstatic to pick it up for $2K. That was a good deal.

#114 1 year ago
Quoted from DRDAVE:

Had a Nugent....restored it up...played it for a month..sold it. Very few early Sterns make the grade I've found. Stars is THE shining star of the early Sterns. =)

Trident is another good early Stern. Pretty easy with no drain on the left, but it's a good layout and ruleset.

#123 1 year ago
Quoted from BrianBannon:

Yes, Trident is a good one, though I always thought the best MPU100 game was Stern Magic.

I have yet to play a nice one. All the ones at shows have been crap.

#180 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Which plays better? Star Gazer or Fathom?
There is a Fathom at Cactus Jack's. Maybe they don't have it set steep enough but it does nothing for me. It is a beautiful pin but from the first moment that mealy mouthed voice says "Fathom" and that rhythmic sound starts I start losing the thrill of the chase. I'd rather play Interflip Dragon.

Star Gazer all day, every day.

Interflip Dragon is a great game....brutal as hell.

#223 1 year ago
Quoted from Crispin:

I enjoyed the sounds of Seawitch and she could really get pumping with the drop target sounds overlapping but that damn right orbit shot was just annoying.

The orbit shot is worthless anyway unless your spinner works well. 22,000 max for the rollover is a waste of a cool effect. That shot needs a rule change. Drop targets are far more lucrative.

#224 1 year ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Truth be told, my favorite Bally game is my Mr/MS Pac-man. Every other single Mr/Ms I have ever played was absolute crap. Lamps/switches not working, flippers not aligned, ect. Yeah, I know. Flame away.

That's funny. I found the game to be WAAAAAAY too easy in the arcade and yet I found myself wanting one everytime I'd see one come up for sale. I have one now in my project queue.

The biggest thing I didn't like about Fathom was the reversed inlane/outlanes. Bally did so much of that in the early 80's and it was a real turn off for me (M/M PacMan included). I also didn't care for it relocking balls during multiball. Beautiful game and I like playing it, but I couldn't see myself keeping one in my collection.

#247 1 year ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

bally glasses are always nice)

Quoted from BrianBannon:

Bally glasses always nice? Really??

Quoted from BrianBannon:

Viking is easy to look at.

I think that's exactly what he meant. Bally glasses are always easy to look at.

Quoted from CrazyLevi:

$1000-1500 I think. Sounds like an avg. viking

Quoted from BrianBannon:

If your Bally Viking is really that nice with a beautiful backglass and playfield to match you are well north of $2k without a problem.

I gotta go with Brian on this one. Viking is getting harder to find. Beaters sell for $1K nowadays. $2K+ is not out of line for mint/near mint condition.

3 weeks later
#361 1 year ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Since I have started this thread I've added 6 classic sterns to my collection.
I got freefall, flight 2000, meteor, seawitch, a nugent being shipped in and a quicksilver being shipped in.

One of these days I need to dig out my Freefall and get it going. I've never played one. It's been in my project queue for a couple years and I think that's too long.

#371 1 year ago

Good Lord!

#384 1 year ago
Quoted from Methos:

I apologize if this has been posted, but here is a thread to make you cry.
I was lucky enough to get one of them, but in hindsight, I would have had the $ in his hands faster than a flick of the wrist.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-entire-classic-stern-mpu-200-collection-4-sale

I made an offer on his Star Gazer. It had a beautifully restored playfield, except for one font issue in the bonus multiplier tree which didn't make any sense. But it had damage from sitting on it's back in water. Seller did not include any photos that showed the damage to the cabinet and playfield -- no pictures of the back and the only shots of the inside were taken from the coin door.

I found another album containing pics of the game when he got it. These pics clearly showed the damage. I'm sure he repaired all of it, but it should have been disclosed since I bet the inner cab would have been stained. Deals fell through with other people in line, and when it fell in my lap I offered him $200-300 less than asking price. He declined the offer and sold the game to someone else.

I regretted that decision every day until the one I bought popped up for sale.

#388 1 year ago
Quoted from Methos:

Now 3K is a steal for it, only 4 years later.
SG and QS were gone when I got in, but I was able to get one of the other ones. Sad news is I passed on the Cheetah and Catacomb.

Crazy, right?

I only got limited play time on Cheetah when it was in the arcade so I don't remember much about it. Due to mixed reviews I passed on it too. Wouldn't mind owning one now.

#389 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

I thought the going rate for a nice QS was around $3000?
Thought only Stargazer gets big bucks?
That said not expensive compared to a new Stern pro.

Define nice. I assume you mean nice original? Those would be very hard to come by.

I was offered $2500 for my Quicksilver (restored playfield, nice original cabinet, decent glass) PLUS a project Iron Maiden (the one RedKetchup has now) at TPF 4 years ago. He was asking $1500 for the Iron Maiden.

Crazy money at the time, but I turned him down. I knew I'd have to go out and buy another QS and restore it. Considering how long it took to find mine I couldn't go that long without it.

#396 1 year ago
Quoted from DRDAVE:

I may be interested in 1 or 2 PDI for the Stern widebody.
**Also be very careful with Stern playfield glass.** The lockdown bar receiver lip sits too close to the glass causing it to easily scratch when taking the glass out or in. You need to carefully lift the glass while moving the glass so it doesn't scrape against it.
The easy fix for this is to pound the tip of a bamboo skewer into both of the plastic channels the glass enters into. This makes the glass elevated a few milliliters enough to clear the lip with out too much effort/caution when removing/installing glass. And no more **SCreeeeeecchhh!** =)

Interesting solution. Both my QS and SG screech.

#415 1 year ago

Not a fan of Split Second myself, BUT, I haven't played it since it's heyday in the arcades.

Generally speaking, I'm not a big fan of Harry Williams' designs for Stern. I'm starting to warm up to some of them (Big Game, Hot Hand) so I may actually like SS now. Never played Freefall and have concerns I won't like it, but when I finally get mine running I'll keep my expectations low. Hopefully, I'll be pleasantly surprised. F2K is my favorite design of his, but the jury's still out as to who designed it.

#436 12 months ago

...and be sure to use trifurcon for better grip.

#440 12 months ago

It's needed for games with the VSU-100 speech board.

#443 12 months ago
Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:

Of all my Solid States, Probably Mata Hari & Genie would be my 2 least favorite to play. If I didn't want to keep one wide body from each of the 4 major manufacturers I'd have probably gotten rid of Genie a while ago. I've learned that I'm just not a Gottlieb guy...

There's a lot of Gottlieb widebody games out there that are good. Looking at your collection, your tastes are very similar to mine and these are the games I like. So maybe there's chance you would like them.

Black Hole
Counterforce
Mars God of War
Panthera
Spirit
Time Line
Volcano

Now if you're looking for the super widebodies, I can't help you. I'm not a big fan of them either.

#481 11 months ago

Hopefully Beatles will have an option to play classic Seawitch.

#502 11 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

My plate is full until I return from Ft. Worth on Nov. 5th. When I get back I can carve one up from a piece of wood and try it out. If it works, one could be made of a block of dark blue acrylic and located with a couple of screws and removed so it would not be permanent. There are lots of possibilities here.

Sucks that we already had Mantis make ball guides for us.

#534 11 months ago

Use old bulbs (i.e. not bulbs made in the last 20 years) or switch to LEDs.

2 weeks later
#619 11 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I wonder at what point we start seeing pinball machines <snip> going across the block at Barrett-Jackson. <snip> Just traded around by a bunch of old men for ever increasing dollars.

They better hurry.

1 month later
#757 9 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Next remove all damaged components and all headers, then refloat solder on any bare copper.

Do yourself a favor. Now that you've removed all that damaged crap from the reset section, replace it with a Dallas reset generator. You only need to put back a couple of components that way.

#773 9 months ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

I disagree with what Chris stated in the PW, where it is not worth it. I've done it several times, and prefer to always use less components when there has been battery damage. Plus, you no longer need +12v in the reset section and you can remove that toaster oven of a resistor, R11, which commonly fails. Here's a pic of how I do it. This is on an MPU-200.
Jim
[quoted image]

I totally agree with Jim. The Dallas reset generator is the only way I do it now and would never go back to the factory circuit.

My notes say R11 is needed, so Jim obviously does this a different way, but here's what's needed in my method:
R11 82ohm 1W resistor
CR7 1N4148 diode
CR5 1N4148 diode
R12 270 ohm 1/4W resistor
C13 .01 disc cap

^^^ These are components in the original circuit that you will need to replace if damaged by corrosion or keep if converting an undamaged board (where the reset circuit has failed, but there is no corrosion.)

Also needed:
Dallas reset generator (in Q5 location, more info below)
1K 1/4W resistor

==================================================================================

If you're converting an undamaged board, you only need to remove the following components:
R1
R138
R139
R140
Q5

To install the Dallas reset generator:
Run a jumper between the bottom leg of R138 and the top leg of R139 (this can be seen in Jim's pic)
Run the 1K 1/4W resistor from right hole of R140 to the top hole of Q5

That's it -- really simple -- remove 5 components, install a jumper and 2 new components and you're done.

PinWiki says to use a Dallas 1811 reset generator, but you can use others as well. I'm using a Dallas 1233 in my conversions because I got a great deal on 50 of them on ebay.
The difference on these chips is the voltage required to generate a reset, the length of time allowed for the power to stabilize, and the pinout of the chip. The 1811 gives the power supply a little more time to stabilize than the stock Q1, Q5 circuit and the 1233 gives even more time than the 1811, I believe. We're talking a difference of a couple hundred nano seconds here, so you'll never notice the difference when you boot the game.

Here are the pinouts of Q5, so that you can orient whichever chip you decide to use correctly:
Top hole = Reset
Left hole = GND
Right hole = Vcc

2 weeks later
#875 9 months ago
Quoted from tomdotcom:

Was playing some Meteor tonight and had a thought. I wonder if it would somehow be possible to save 4 high scores instead of just one. Anyone ever seen the code edited to do something like that? One score for each of the 4 displays.....

I haven't seen it, but it would be possible. You'd have to give up some audits to make room in the CMOS for additional high scores and you'd have to remove all associated routines from the code that reference the audits you just 86'd. May not be as big a deal for Stern vs. Bally since the MPU-200 has double the amount of CMOS RAM, but I don't know.

#880 9 months ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

Both game are sold and gone!

Same person buy both?

#889 9 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I know what F2K is but you got me with “sbm”. I’ll probably feel stupid but what is sbm?

Silverball Mania

1 week later
#942 8 months ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

I'm curious if any Lightning owners tried removing the one way gates above the ramps on their game. Lightning left me flat, but I think getting rid of the gates would make a great improvement.

Yes someone mentioned removing one side, can't remember which, but they loved the way it changed the game.

1 week later
#995 8 months ago
Quoted from statictrance:

So - my coin doors are in generally OK shape given the player condition of the games - but I bought new front decals for the whopping 3 or 4 bucks they are. Problem is - the original paint is still on there and smudged to hell. Any recommendation of something to pull that off - but not the original door paint?

Try denatured alcohol. If that doesn't work you'll probably have to sand and repaint.

1 week later
#1037 8 months ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

Pretty cool find! However, I would bet that Stern made theirs that way for one important reason (outside of patent infringement) - bricking! Bally drop targets brick a lot more than Sterns.

One word: Sweepability

#1055 7 months ago

Triggering the switches by pounding makes it sound mechanical to me, not electronic. The switches are not blocked when you pound and score, correct? I just want to make sure I'm reading it right.

What happens if you block them and then pound? Do any switches score?

My experience is cleaning with a business card is not enough. If you look at the switch contacts they are probably tarnished black. The business card will have little or no effect. I use my Dremel with a fine abrasive buff (like ScotchBrite material) just enough to get the black off of the contacts, a very short pulse. Too much and you'll take the gold plating off leaving the switch unreliable.

#1056 7 months ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

If your switches still have the original pancake caps cut one leg off or remove them entirely. These things dry out and fail causing all sorts of issues in the switch matrix. The game will play ok with them removed but can be replaced for $.12 each.

Sounds like his problem is only with drop targets. Drop targets should not have caps on them. Caps are designed to work with switches with a very short closure time, like a ball bouncing off a stationary target.

When a drop target is hit, the switch closes and stays closed, therefore, no need for a cap.

#1064 7 months ago

If the bottom drop target is UP and the other two DOWN, will it start the game normally when you press the start button?

If the top and bottom targets are DOWN and the middle is UP, will it reboot when you press the start button?

#1066 7 months ago

I would double-check the diode on the top drop target for a short. Disconnect the diode on the bottom drop and see if your problems go away. If not, the problem is probably somewhere in the coin door.

1 week later
#1121 7 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I took the star posts out from the top of the lane guides and regretted it 2 games later, but never switched back.

What do you mean?

#1143 7 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

It looked like the ball wouldn’t even fit in the gap if I left them in. So took them out. Game is very hard, but I think it’s fair. Punishes you for missed shots. And like I said, making Multiball is VERY rewarding. It’s basically a wizard mode on this thing.

What if you took out the posts above the special lights on the outlanes?

#1154 7 months ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

2. random resets, maybe once every 30-40 games. It's identical to when the slam tilt switch is pushed. thinking momentary loss of 5v on the board or the slam tilt is getting triggered somehow? I hate these intermittent issues, such a pain in the ass. The game was unplayable when I got it, so I have no idea if this issue was pre-existing.

Repin MPU J4 if you haven't already, unless it's happening during a game. If it happens during the game, there could be a shorted diode in the switch matrix somewhere.

1 week later
#1292 7 months ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

I noticed that the coil at the upper flipper (that hits the media targets) was quite hot. Prior to this examination I had been playing for about 10 minutes. This one coil was functional, not burnt, actually looks like a newish coil, but quite hot to the touch. The remaining coils on the game were cool to the touch. All the wires seemed appropriately placed and well soldered. Any ideas?

Quoted from cottonm4:

Blue print shows all 4 flippers are driven by one transistor. I don't know why only one is getting hot. But you should think about replacing the Q15 transistor on your SDU board. Print calls for SE9302 or X44E198. Use a TIP 102 instead.

Q15 would not be the issue since it simply activates the flipper relay, which provides the ground path for all flippers.

Most likely you have an issue with that particular coil. You said it looks new, what is the part number? Try taking readings across the coil terminals with an ohmmeter with the power off and the EOS switch held open. The large gauge winding should read about 3 ohms, the smaller gauge winding should read about 300 ohms.

If your readings are less the coil would be drawing more current and generating more heat. This could indicate the wrong coil or the windings have been compromised somehow. Maybe a puncture to the coil from an overly long EOS screw or a stray strand of wire on the solder terminals.

Give the coil another look and report your findings here.

#1296 7 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Then this will probably give you a heart attack but I have managed to incorporate a Beatles launch ramp in my Seawitch The goal of getting better loop shots from the upper right hand flipper did not pan out, but I am happy with the way the ball launches. I still need to do some work on fit and finish but this will do, for now.
I am going to frame that flap gate and hang it on the wall.
I am bringing this bad girl to TPF. You can check it out there.
[quoted image]

Anxious to try it. Would like to do that to mine, but I'd really like to be able to make repetitive loop shots from the upper flipper and may not be able to do that without modding the left side.

#1316 7 months ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

Stern doesn't use Bakelite

The old style mechs had bakelite links. The later mechs used plastic.

1 week later
#1346 6 months ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

TPF score of the day
[quoted image]

I saw those and the guy wouldn’t take less than $30. He also had NOS beehive shooter housings that he wanted (I kid you not) $30 each.
B41D64B1-6B56-483F-A42B-A7C0C5772F3F (resized).jpeg

#1362 6 months ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

What are these? are they the plastic pop rings? Anyone know why they are plastic? is this better? I can't figure out what they are sitting in...

Yes they are plastic. Lightweight, faster response time and they won’t scratch the ball. They are sitting in the base that mounts under the playfield.

#1370 6 months ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Rebuild or replace the power board, &amp; re-pin the connectors on it to start.

Quoted from ChipScott:

All of the LEDs in the rectifier board at the base of the cabinet all have solid green light.

The original rectifier board doesn't have LEDs so this indicates the board has already been replaced.

Did you fix the wire on the coin door before or after the weird behavior started?

#1378 6 months ago
Quoted from Gov:

Here are some pics from the restored Galaxy that my dad won Best 80's Pin at TPF with.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wait......that was your dad? I was probably talking to you and didn't even know it. We need to formally meet next year.

1 week later
#1397 6 months ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

Working on a Lightning for somebody. Think I'm going to reccomend a new rectifier board...
[quoted image]

I think you just need more wire. I can lend you some if you want.

IMG_5849 (resized).JPG
#1410 6 months ago
Quoted from thirdedition:

I agree, I'm super biased since it was my first game. I love it and I have a fantastic time every time I play it.

Quoted from BrianBannon:

Same here, I have always thought that Magic was the best MPU100 game and better than some of the MPU200 games.

I sure would like to play a nice one.

4 weeks later
#1511 5 months ago
Quoted from Methos:

My original targets on my QS stick some times. Is it better just to replace them?

Quoted from Winger03:

Similar problem with F2K. There are times when I really hit the target hard and it does not fall. Almost like it is not built to fall - does not budge. Other times, it goes right down.

Check the surface of the metal on the back of the target bank (the side that faces the back of the targets). If it is oxidized, as most are, you need to smooth the surface or it acts like sandpaper and inhibits the movement of the targets.

#1527 5 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Loaded up on classic stern parts this weekend, got a couple nos backglasses, galaxy, freefall, splitsecond and spinners from mayfair, bought 3 populated playfeilds, lightning, dracula, trident. Also got 2 coin doors, widebody lockbar, and some flipper mechs and pop bumpers. Lastly a big game playfield nice shape, topside populated.

I think I know someone who would like your Split Second glass if you're looking to sell any of it.

2 weeks later
#1576 4 months ago
Quoted from fisherdaman:

I have a coworker with an Ali Pinball machine with a dirty playfield. Can he use Novus to clean the playfield or should he use something else?

I wouldn't use anything abrasive on the playfield of these classic games unless you plan to clearcoat it.

#1580 4 months ago

I used Novus 2 on a nice original Xenon playfield and it started wearing like crazy.

That was the last time anything abrasive touched any of my playfields for general cleaning.

1 week later
#1618 4 months ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

This is just an observation. Has anyone else ever noticed that it is very difficult to put up a 2 mil point score on a 7-digit game, but yet it is pretty easy to roll the later 6-digit games?

What 6-digit games are you rolling?

#1622 4 months ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

Meteor and Galaxy come to mind immediately.

Quoted from Mitch:

Set them up harder, nobody has rolled my meteor..... yet.

Set them harder for sure. Set Meteor at 7.5 degrees or just under where it feels like Pachinko. Turn the lane guides around on the Galaxy X and Y lanes so there’s more bounce action between the flippers.

Simply making Meteor harder put it in my top 5 classic Sterns.

#1627 4 months ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

That’s how they should be!
3” leg levelers, in the back, cranked way up is the way to go!

Quoted from cottonm4:

Go buy some 31” legs from PBR.

Yes go with 31” legs. 3” levelers all the way up will not be enough for Meteor.

#1632 4 months ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Will people please stop perpetuating the myth that some random pitch number of 15.946 degrees makes their game mean and hard. Sure maybe the ball is faster rolling back. But it’s slower going up! And you lose all the side to side action so your drains on the outlanes decrease. It also makes the game easy to trap balls. There is a good medium and not enough pitch makes a game play like dog doo.

I would agree with this on most games except Meteor. The playfield design has no side to side action and the single pop bumper provides no real benefit at any angle. If I didn’t tell you the angle on mine you’d just think it’s fast and that’s it.

On the other hand, people have told me to jack my Quicksilver up to 6.5 degrees. I tried that, but found the best play was when the slope was between 5.5 and 6 degrees.

I also tried Xenon at 7 degrees to make it harder, but found it too hard to make it up the ramp and the pop bumper action was not as good. 6-6.5 made it much better.

I have put a lot of science into where I set playfield slope.

#1633 4 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

That's going overboard. Not needed.

Makes your game more stable not wobbling on the extended levelers.

#1639 4 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

AFAIK, QS is the only classic Stern to use a 4 -place drop assembly.

Seawitch

#1640 4 months ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Xenon proves the ball is slower. Too hard to go up the ramp. More pitch equals slowing down a rising ball.

This is true. Another example is the top lock on Firepower. I rebuilt my flippers with all new parts and new coils too. At 5.8 degrees I had a 75% success rate. At 5.9 degrees it dropped to 50% and 6.0 degrees it dropped to about 10%. No perceivable decrease in ball speed or flipper power, but the results didn’t lie.

Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

My meteors somewhere around 6.5 and it is plenty fast. Sensitive slings give plenty of side to side action. No rubber posts on the outlanes. Center post rubber is in because pulling a Kirk post is blasphemy.

Each game has its “sweet spot”. Meteor just happens to be one of those games that you can jack way up with no detrimental effects on gameplay.

#1643 4 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I did however add extra red voltage wiring to the playfield
to a Firepower many years ago.

I need to do that. WPC mechs didn’t help much over Sys6 mechs, so I added WPC coils and a 50v transformer. No missing the lock now.

#1661 4 months ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

Galaxy is gone now. I didn't like the game. The bonus count is just stupid on it. Should increment by 1K not 10K or whatever it is.

I'm not a huge fan of Galaxy either, but I have to say the game is a lot of fun when you can't tear it up via bonus. When the game makes you work hard and a "good" score is 400K, that's when it's fun.

#1663 4 months ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

I wanted to like it, considering how much time I put into it, and really like the artwork. The spinner shot is cool too. But, I just couldn't get into it. Much like Wild Fyre. I can't get into that, but it's mainly because of the wretched sound! Layout is oddly familiar, wouldn't you say?

I'm hoping I don't run into the same problem with Freefall. I've never played the game before so I have no point of reference, but the reviews I've seen are mediocre. Cool game and I want to like it so I'm going to have to work hard to make it a great player.

Wild Fyre does have a very familiar layout.

#1670 4 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I fixed the problem with a bent clear piece of plastic that covered the top walker switch...
It would stop the ball hop and break the speed of the ball at the same time.

Nice. I'll save that little tidbit for my restoration. Planning to bring it to TPF 2020.

#1682 4 months ago

I see 4 pinsiders on pinball owners:

chadtower
easyede
fanofpinball
gizmonic

1 week later
#1705 4 months ago
Quoted from brenna98:

https://m.twitch.tv/videos/438740876
Did my first pinball stream with my friend cloud7 on Quicksilver
Turned out pretty good.

Nice video guys.

#1761 4 months ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Catacomb is great except one flaw....[quoted image]

That's too bad the backglass peeled so badly, but at least the most important part survived.

1 week later
#1779 3 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Can you have them make big game playfields too? I didn’t have any luck.

And why not Dragonfist playfields while you're at it.

#1809 3 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I was not aware that Ali was selling for $1,000.00 plus.

Pretty much any MPU 200 game is $1k+ these days. We won't discuss the other part of the equation, though.

3 weeks later
#1878 84 days ago
Quoted from bluespin:

Are these different from the ones that Marco’s and Pinball Rescue sell?

Yes! I don’t know about Pinball Rescue, but Marco’s is printed on plain paper, not foil.

#1892 84 days ago
Quoted from bluespin:

So were the originals that came from the factory plain labels or metallic/shiny like the phoenix arcade version? Same question on the large coin door decal

Shiny. The Marco stickers are wrong.

1 week later
#1937 75 days ago
Quoted from jkashani:

I think I figure it out will keep all posted. I think it just tames the flicker.

Do all of your LEDs flicker or just some? If just some, it could be bad SCRs.

#1953 74 days ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Understood, but it is only one row of lamps, the others are fine. Any other suggestions?

I’d call Alltek. They should support their product.

#1960 73 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Never been a massive fan of it actually, never understood why everyone blows it so hard. Perhaps listening to the podcast will help me understand!

It’s got a wide open 3-spinner layout, lots of targets to hit, the unique slings and scoops and a great sound package. And of course, a great backglass.

I still think QS is the better game, but with Okaegi’s rules, or even better, Scott Charles’ rules it really shines.

2 weeks later
#2062 55 days ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Anyone want a free catacomb Backglass?[quoted image]

I have one like that. And just like mine the best part is still there.

#2076 52 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Fair as I use LEDs, but will put incandescent in when it's in your sight line.
Maybe you're not being silly at all, maybe just try it and see. Anything that will take down the number of "Hey can someone tell me where the short posts go on my machine" is fine by me
Be ready to maybe take a hit, literally, on your plastics though if they're lower. More of a chance they could get hit but I don;t watch games in super slow mo so no idea what it really looks like.

I just use LEDs and paint the side of the bulb that is in your line of sight.

#2110 48 days ago

The 12V source is unregulated. I wouldn't worry about the 16V reading.

What issues are you having?

#2118 48 days ago
Quoted from Aahzz:

Some resets and my sound is cutting off at game start. Was hoping that was the issue

Resets would be caused by a bad voltage regulator or bad filter cap C23 on the SBD, or bad pins in MPU connector J4. If you haven't repinned the connector and replaced the header pins do that first.

I don't know if the sound board uses 12V unregulated power, but I would make sure your regulated 5V is solid first.

1 week later
#2189 37 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Thanks, but I get no flashes. The pin is frozen as shown in the pics.
I’m still running errands. It will be later before I am back home

Start by checking the voltages on the rectifier board, specifically 12V unregulated.

Then check TP1 and TP3 on the SDB. Both should be 5V.

Check MPU TP2 (12V) and TP5 (5V). That should be all you need to boot the CPU with flashes.

I would also disconnect the cables from the top of the MPU in case a sound board fault is locking up the MPU.

#2203 35 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Hey Classic Stern fans, I'm about to start restoring my Quicksilver and I have a question regarding the coin door. What do people do? Powdercoat or paint? And what colour? What about the coin mechs? zinc plating or polishing? Thanks.

Paint it with Rustoleum hammered silver. There is a slight blue tint to it so you could experiment with silver over blue, but silver alone is acceptable.

3 weeks later
#2316 11 days ago

Can't wait to see it in person!

1 week later
#2339 3 days ago

If you put one display at a time in your Meteor (the rest of the displays being good ones), do they have any effect on the good displays? If so, you probably have a bad decoder chip on the bad display.

#2342 3 days ago
Quoted from treborlicec:

I reflowed one to test and no change. Putting one Magic display in Meteor has no effect on the good Meteor displays.

Did you try all of them? One bad display can affect all displays.

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