(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

3 years ago

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  • Latest reply 17 hours ago by cottonm4
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Topic index (key posts)

9 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #227 Various gate tips. Posted by cottonm4 (3 years ago)

Post #269 Hi quality thoughts from Cotton about inlanes. Posted by cottonm4 (3 years ago)

Post #279 Playfield touch up tips. Posted by klr650 (3 years ago)

Post #309 Stern inserts suggestions. Posted by cottonm4 (3 years ago)

Post #310 Seawitch gate flap solution. Posted by frunch (3 years ago)

Post #1033 Bally drop targets on the classic stern, even mix and match. Posted by cottonm4 (2 years ago)

Post #1958 Star Gazer podcast episode link. Posted by DRDAVE (2 years ago)

Post #2587 Link to 3D printed parts available from HHaase. Posted by HHaase (1 year ago)

Post #2590 Link to 3D printed parts by Swinks, available at Shapeways. Posted by swinks (1 year ago)

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#21 3 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

I got to be honest. I think Star Gazer is the only one worth picking up.

Quoted from snyper2099:

Nah, the only 2 mentioned thus far worth owning are Nine Ball and Stars.


All are great games worth owning, but assuming all games are set up properly, QS is the best classic Stern experience. Period.

The new rules on SG really make it a top contender though.

Meteor is another one that when set up right is a killer game. A lot of people poo poo it for being too easy. Play one that's set up properly and you won't say that again. I've never found a great playing Meteor in the wild.

#35 3 years ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

These new ROMS always suck ass and serve mostly to provide Gizmonic with home field advantage at his tournaments!

That may be true, but considering I don't play in any of his tournaments it doesn't affect me.

No this code makes the game more balanced. SG is WAY too easy in stock form. Okaegi's code made it much better by requiring you to shoot the entire table. However, his code actually made it too difficult to complete all of the zodiacs. Fine for tournaments, but frustrating for home play.

The new rules enable the scoop rollovers ONLY when you complete the center DT bank. Even then, a rollover doesn't guarantee spotting a zodiac, but it does give you a better chance of getting that pesky one you can't seem to hit. The left and right DTs light the spinners so you don't lose that feature when the rollovers are disabled.

#42 3 years ago

My friend picked up a project Seawitch for $900 this spring and we both thought that was a good deal. I think it booted and played, but backglass was flaking badly and playfield had typical wear.

#94 3 years ago
Quoted from pinlawyer:

Had a 1981 Iron Maiden. Rare for a reason. Beautiful game, but man, it sucked donkey balls!

Yeah surprised nobody mentioned this one in all the remake posts. Everybody and their dog wanted one a few years ago. It was the grail classic Stern. Now nobody seems to talk about it at all.

It sure is a beautiful game, but it's the exact reason art is not part of my criteria for ownership. A game's gotta be a good player. I don't care what it looks or sounds like.

I've heard Viper is the same.....beautiful game, but a total dog. I have yet to play one.

#104 3 years ago
Quoted from pinlawyer:

I've grown to love Viper, and play it more than any other classic Stern in my lineup (which has 10 classic Sterns). The rules are great, the shots are great, if simple, and the center turret seems at first like a stupid novelty (think Hot Hand), but grows to become a fun challenge. The only part of Viper I find less than appealing is the sound.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice collection! If I'm ever in Phoenix I'll give you a buzz and you'll have to invite me over to play. State law.

#106 3 years ago

Two Quicksilvers?

#113 3 years ago
Quoted from enjoyvelvet:

Sold my non working Stargazer in original condition (old rubbers, some wear) for $2000 last year

Wow I just looked at my purchase history and I bought mine 4 years ago for the same price in the same condition (except that it was working).

I felt the price was a little high for an unrestored example, but they were getting scooped up so quickly I didn't want to miss out. I had let 2 or 3 others slip through my fingers.

If I were still looking for one I'd be ecstatic to pick it up for $2K. That was a good deal.

#114 3 years ago
Quoted from DRDAVE:

Had a Nugent....restored it up...played it for a month..sold it. Very few early Sterns make the grade I've found. Stars is THE shining star of the early Sterns. =)

Trident is another good early Stern. Pretty easy with no drain on the left, but it's a good layout and ruleset.

#123 3 years ago
Quoted from BrianBannon:

Yes, Trident is a good one, though I always thought the best MPU100 game was Stern Magic.

I have yet to play a nice one. All the ones at shows have been crap.

#180 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Which plays better? Star Gazer or Fathom?
There is a Fathom at Cactus Jack's. Maybe they don't have it set steep enough but it does nothing for me. It is a beautiful pin but from the first moment that mealy mouthed voice says "Fathom" and that rhythmic sound starts I start losing the thrill of the chase. I'd rather play Interflip Dragon.

Star Gazer all day, every day.

Interflip Dragon is a great game....brutal as hell.

#223 3 years ago
Quoted from Crispin:

I enjoyed the sounds of Seawitch and she could really get pumping with the drop target sounds overlapping but that damn right orbit shot was just annoying.

The orbit shot is worthless anyway unless your spinner works well. 22,000 max for the rollover is a waste of a cool effect. That shot needs a rule change. Drop targets are far more lucrative.

#224 3 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Truth be told, my favorite Bally game is my Mr/MS Pac-man. Every other single Mr/Ms I have ever played was absolute crap. Lamps/switches not working, flippers not aligned, ect. Yeah, I know. Flame away.

That's funny. I found the game to be WAAAAAAY too easy in the arcade and yet I found myself wanting one everytime I'd see one come up for sale. I have one now in my project queue.

The biggest thing I didn't like about Fathom was the reversed inlane/outlanes. Bally did so much of that in the early 80's and it was a real turn off for me (M/M PacMan included). I also didn't care for it relocking balls during multiball. Beautiful game and I like playing it, but I couldn't see myself keeping one in my collection.

#247 3 years ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

bally glasses are always nice)

Quoted from BrianBannon:

Bally glasses always nice? Really??

Quoted from BrianBannon:

Viking is easy to look at.

I think that's exactly what he meant. Bally glasses are always easy to look at.

Quoted from CrazyLevi:

$1000-1500 I think. Sounds like an avg. viking

Quoted from BrianBannon:

If your Bally Viking is really that nice with a beautiful backglass and playfield to match you are well north of $2k without a problem.

I gotta go with Brian on this one. Viking is getting harder to find. Beaters sell for $1K nowadays. $2K+ is not out of line for mint/near mint condition.

3 weeks later
#361 3 years ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Since I have started this thread I've added 6 classic sterns to my collection.
I got freefall, flight 2000, meteor, seawitch, a nugent being shipped in and a quicksilver being shipped in.

One of these days I need to dig out my Freefall and get it going. I've never played one. It's been in my project queue for a couple years and I think that's too long.

#371 3 years ago

Good Lord!

#384 3 years ago
Quoted from Methos:

I apologize if this has been posted, but here is a thread to make you cry.
I was lucky enough to get one of them, but in hindsight, I would have had the $ in his hands faster than a flick of the wrist.

I made an offer on his Star Gazer. It had a beautifully restored playfield, except for one font issue in the bonus multiplier tree which didn't make any sense. But it had damage from sitting on it's back in water. Seller did not include any photos that showed the damage to the cabinet and playfield -- no pictures of the back and the only shots of the inside were taken from the coin door.

I found another album containing pics of the game when he got it. These pics clearly showed the damage. I'm sure he repaired all of it, but it should have been disclosed since I bet the inner cab would have been stained. Deals fell through with other people in line, and when it fell in my lap I offered him $200-300 less than asking price. He declined the offer and sold the game to someone else.

I regretted that decision every day until the one I bought popped up for sale.

#388 3 years ago
Quoted from Methos:

Now 3K is a steal for it, only 4 years later.
SG and QS were gone when I got in, but I was able to get one of the other ones. Sad news is I passed on the Cheetah and Catacomb.

Crazy, right?

I only got limited play time on Cheetah when it was in the arcade so I don't remember much about it. Due to mixed reviews I passed on it too. Wouldn't mind owning one now.

#389 3 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

I thought the going rate for a nice QS was around $3000?
Thought only Stargazer gets big bucks?
That said not expensive compared to a new Stern pro.

Define nice. I assume you mean nice original? Those would be very hard to come by.

I was offered $2500 for my Quicksilver (restored playfield, nice original cabinet, decent glass) PLUS a project Iron Maiden (the one RedKetchup has now) at TPF 4 years ago. He was asking $1500 for the Iron Maiden.

Crazy money at the time, but I turned him down. I knew I'd have to go out and buy another QS and restore it. Considering how long it took to find mine I couldn't go that long without it.

#396 3 years ago
Quoted from DRDAVE:

I may be interested in 1 or 2 PDI for the Stern widebody.
**Also be very careful with Stern playfield glass.** The lockdown bar receiver lip sits too close to the glass causing it to easily scratch when taking the glass out or in. You need to carefully lift the glass while moving the glass so it doesn't scrape against it.
The easy fix for this is to pound the tip of a bamboo skewer into both of the plastic channels the glass enters into. This makes the glass elevated a few milliliters enough to clear the lip with out too much effort/caution when removing/installing glass. And no more **SCreeeeeecchhh!** =)

Interesting solution. Both my QS and SG screech.

#415 3 years ago

Not a fan of Split Second myself, BUT, I haven't played it since it's heyday in the arcades.

Generally speaking, I'm not a big fan of Harry Williams' designs for Stern. I'm starting to warm up to some of them (Big Game, Hot Hand) so I may actually like SS now. Never played Freefall and have concerns I won't like it, but when I finally get mine running I'll keep my expectations low. Hopefully, I'll be pleasantly surprised. F2K is my favorite design of his, but the jury's still out as to who designed it.

#436 3 years ago

...and be sure to use trifurcon for better grip.

#440 3 years ago

It's needed for games with the VSU-100 speech board.

#443 3 years ago
Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:

Of all my Solid States, Probably Mata Hari & Genie would be my 2 least favorite to play. If I didn't want to keep one wide body from each of the 4 major manufacturers I'd have probably gotten rid of Genie a while ago. I've learned that I'm just not a Gottlieb guy...

There's a lot of Gottlieb widebody games out there that are good. Looking at your collection, your tastes are very similar to mine and these are the games I like. So maybe there's chance you would like them.

Black Hole
Mars God of War
Time Line

Now if you're looking for the super widebodies, I can't help you. I'm not a big fan of them either.

#481 3 years ago

Hopefully Beatles will have an option to play classic Seawitch.

#502 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

My plate is full until I return from Ft. Worth on Nov. 5th. When I get back I can carve one up from a piece of wood and try it out. If it works, one could be made of a block of dark blue acrylic and located with a couple of screws and removed so it would not be permanent. There are lots of possibilities here.

Sucks that we already had Mantis make ball guides for us.

#534 2 years ago

Use old bulbs (i.e. not bulbs made in the last 20 years) or switch to LEDs.

2 weeks later
#619 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I wonder at what point we start seeing pinball machines <snip> going across the block at Barrett-Jackson. <snip> Just traded around by a bunch of old men for ever increasing dollars.

They better hurry.

1 month later
#757 2 years ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Next remove all damaged components and all headers, then refloat solder on any bare copper.

Do yourself a favor. Now that you've removed all that damaged crap from the reset section, replace it with a Dallas reset generator. You only need to put back a couple of components that way.

#773 2 years ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

I disagree with what Chris stated in the PW, where it is not worth it. I've done it several times, and prefer to always use less components when there has been battery damage. Plus, you no longer need +12v in the reset section and you can remove that toaster oven of a resistor, R11, which commonly fails. Here's a pic of how I do it. This is on an MPU-200.
[quoted image]

I totally agree with Jim. The Dallas reset generator is the only way I do it now and would never go back to the factory circuit.

My notes say R11 is needed, so Jim obviously does this a different way, but here's what's needed in my method:
R11 82ohm 1W resistor
CR7 1N4148 diode
CR5 1N4148 diode
R12 270 ohm 1/4W resistor
C13 .01 disc cap

^^^ These are components in the original circuit that you will need to replace if damaged by corrosion or keep if converting an undamaged board (where the reset circuit has failed, but there is no corrosion.)

Also needed:
Dallas reset generator (in Q5 location, more info below)
1K 1/4W resistor


If you're converting an undamaged board, you only need to remove the following components:

To install the Dallas reset generator:
Run a jumper between the bottom leg of R138 and the top leg of R139 (this can be seen in Jim's pic)
Run the 1K 1/4W resistor from right hole of R140 to the top hole of Q5

That's it -- really simple -- remove 5 components, install a jumper and 2 new components and you're done.

PinWiki says to use a Dallas 1811 reset generator, but you can use others as well. I'm using a Dallas 1233 in my conversions because I got a great deal on 50 of them on ebay.
The difference on these chips is the voltage required to generate a reset, the length of time allowed for the power to stabilize, and the pinout of the chip. The 1811 gives the power supply a little more time to stabilize than the stock Q1, Q5 circuit and the 1233 gives even more time than the 1811, I believe. We're talking a difference of a couple hundred nano seconds here, so you'll never notice the difference when you boot the game.

Here are the pinouts of Q5, so that you can orient whichever chip you decide to use correctly:
Top hole = Reset
Left hole = GND
Right hole = Vcc

2 weeks later
#875 2 years ago
Quoted from tomdotcom:

Was playing some Meteor tonight and had a thought. I wonder if it would somehow be possible to save 4 high scores instead of just one. Anyone ever seen the code edited to do something like that? One score for each of the 4 displays.....

I haven't seen it, but it would be possible. You'd have to give up some audits to make room in the CMOS for additional high scores and you'd have to remove all associated routines from the code that reference the audits you just 86'd. May not be as big a deal for Stern vs. Bally since the MPU-200 has double the amount of CMOS RAM, but I don't know.

#880 2 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

Both game are sold and gone!

Same person buy both?

#889 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I know what F2K is but you got me with “sbm”. I’ll probably feel stupid but what is sbm?

Silverball Mania

1 week later
#942 2 years ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

I'm curious if any Lightning owners tried removing the one way gates above the ramps on their game. Lightning left me flat, but I think getting rid of the gates would make a great improvement.

Yes someone mentioned removing one side, can't remember which, but they loved the way it changed the game.

1 week later
#995 2 years ago
Quoted from statictrance:

So - my coin doors are in generally OK shape given the player condition of the games - but I bought new front decals for the whopping 3 or 4 bucks they are. Problem is - the original paint is still on there and smudged to hell. Any recommendation of something to pull that off - but not the original door paint?

Try denatured alcohol. If that doesn't work you'll probably have to sand and repaint.

1 week later
#1037 2 years ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

Pretty cool find! However, I would bet that Stern made theirs that way for one important reason (outside of patent infringement) - bricking! Bally drop targets brick a lot more than Sterns.

One word: Sweepability

#1055 2 years ago

Triggering the switches by pounding makes it sound mechanical to me, not electronic. The switches are not blocked when you pound and score, correct? I just want to make sure I'm reading it right.

What happens if you block them and then pound? Do any switches score?

My experience is cleaning with a business card is not enough. If you look at the switch contacts they are probably tarnished black. The business card will have little or no effect. I use my Dremel with a fine abrasive buff (like ScotchBrite material) just enough to get the black off of the contacts, a very short pulse. Too much and you'll take the gold plating off leaving the switch unreliable.

#1056 2 years ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

If your switches still have the original pancake caps cut one leg off or remove them entirely. These things dry out and fail causing all sorts of issues in the switch matrix. The game will play ok with them removed but can be replaced for $.12 each.

Sounds like his problem is only with drop targets. Drop targets should not have caps on them. Caps are designed to work with switches with a very short closure time, like a ball bouncing off a stationary target.

When a drop target is hit, the switch closes and stays closed, therefore, no need for a cap.

#1064 2 years ago

If the bottom drop target is UP and the other two DOWN, will it start the game normally when you press the start button?

If the top and bottom targets are DOWN and the middle is UP, will it reboot when you press the start button?

#1066 2 years ago

I would double-check the diode on the top drop target for a short. Disconnect the diode on the bottom drop and see if your problems go away. If not, the problem is probably somewhere in the coin door.

1 week later
#1121 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I took the star posts out from the top of the lane guides and regretted it 2 games later, but never switched back.

What do you mean?

#1143 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

It looked like the ball wouldn’t even fit in the gap if I left them in. So took them out. Game is very hard, but I think it’s fair. Punishes you for missed shots. And like I said, making Multiball is VERY rewarding. It’s basically a wizard mode on this thing.

What if you took out the posts above the special lights on the outlanes?

#1154 2 years ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

2. random resets, maybe once every 30-40 games. It's identical to when the slam tilt switch is pushed. thinking momentary loss of 5v on the board or the slam tilt is getting triggered somehow? I hate these intermittent issues, such a pain in the ass. The game was unplayable when I got it, so I have no idea if this issue was pre-existing.

Repin MPU J4 if you haven't already, unless it's happening during a game. If it happens during the game, there could be a shorted diode in the switch matrix somewhere.

1 week later
#1292 2 years ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

I noticed that the coil at the upper flipper (that hits the media targets) was quite hot. Prior to this examination I had been playing for about 10 minutes. This one coil was functional, not burnt, actually looks like a newish coil, but quite hot to the touch. The remaining coils on the game were cool to the touch. All the wires seemed appropriately placed and well soldered. Any ideas?

Quoted from cottonm4:

Blue print shows all 4 flippers are driven by one transistor. I don't know why only one is getting hot. But you should think about replacing the Q15 transistor on your SDU board. Print calls for SE9302 or X44E198. Use a TIP 102 instead.

Q15 would not be the issue since it simply activates the flipper relay, which provides the ground path for all flippers.

Most likely you have an issue with that particular coil. You said it looks new, what is the part number? Try taking readings across the coil terminals with an ohmmeter with the power off and the EOS switch held open. The large gauge winding should read about 3 ohms, the smaller gauge winding should read about 300 ohms.

If your readings are less the coil would be drawing more current and generating more heat. This could indicate the wrong coil or the windings have been compromised somehow. Maybe a puncture to the coil from an overly long EOS screw or a stray strand of wire on the solder terminals.

Give the coil another look and report your findings here.

#1296 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Then this will probably give you a heart attack but I have managed to incorporate a Beatles launch ramp in my Seawitch The goal of getting better loop shots from the upper right hand flipper did not pan out, but I am happy with the way the ball launches. I still need to do some work on fit and finish but this will do, for now.
I am going to frame that flap gate and hang it on the wall.
I am bringing this bad girl to TPF. You can check it out there.
[quoted image]

Anxious to try it. Would like to do that to mine, but I'd really like to be able to make repetitive loop shots from the upper flipper and may not be able to do that without modding the left side.

#1316 2 years ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

Stern doesn't use Bakelite

The old style mechs had bakelite links. The later mechs used plastic.

1 week later
#1346 2 years ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

TPF score of the day
[quoted image]

I saw those and the guy wouldn’t take less than $30. He also had NOS beehive shooter housings that he wanted (I kid you not) $30 each.
B41D64B1-6B56-483F-A42B-A7C0C5772F3F (resized).jpeg

#1362 2 years ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

What are these? are they the plastic pop rings? Anyone know why they are plastic? is this better? I can't figure out what they are sitting in...

Yes they are plastic. Lightweight, faster response time and they won’t scratch the ball. They are sitting in the base that mounts under the playfield.

#1370 2 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Rebuild or replace the power board, &amp; re-pin the connectors on it to start.

Quoted from ChipScott:

All of the LEDs in the rectifier board at the base of the cabinet all have solid green light.

The original rectifier board doesn't have LEDs so this indicates the board has already been replaced.

Did you fix the wire on the coin door before or after the weird behavior started?

#1378 2 years ago
Quoted from Gov:

Here are some pics from the restored Galaxy that my dad won Best 80's Pin at TPF with.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wait......that was your dad? I was probably talking to you and didn't even know it. We need to formally meet next year.

1 week later
#1397 2 years ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

Working on a Lightning for somebody. Think I'm going to reccomend a new rectifier board...
[quoted image]

I think you just need more wire. I can lend you some if you want.

IMG_5849 (resized).JPG
#1410 2 years ago
Quoted from thirdedition:

I agree, I'm super biased since it was my first game. I love it and I have a fantastic time every time I play it.

Quoted from BrianBannon:

Same here, I have always thought that Magic was the best MPU100 game and better than some of the MPU200 games.

I sure would like to play a nice one.

4 weeks later
#1511 2 years ago
Quoted from Methos:

My original targets on my QS stick some times. Is it better just to replace them?

Quoted from Winger03:

Similar problem with F2K. There are times when I really hit the target hard and it does not fall. Almost like it is not built to fall - does not budge. Other times, it goes right down.

Check the surface of the metal on the back of the target bank (the side that faces the back of the targets). If it is oxidized, as most are, you need to smooth the surface or it acts like sandpaper and inhibits the movement of the targets.

#1527 2 years ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Loaded up on classic stern parts this weekend, got a couple nos backglasses, galaxy, freefall, splitsecond and spinners from mayfair, bought 3 populated playfeilds, lightning, dracula, trident. Also got 2 coin doors, widebody lockbar, and some flipper mechs and pop bumpers. Lastly a big game playfield nice shape, topside populated.

I think I know someone who would like your Split Second glass if you're looking to sell any of it.

2 weeks later
#1576 2 years ago
Quoted from fisherdaman:

I have a coworker with an Ali Pinball machine with a dirty playfield. Can he use Novus to clean the playfield or should he use something else?

I wouldn't use anything abrasive on the playfield of these classic games unless you plan to clearcoat it.

#1580 2 years ago

I used Novus 2 on a nice original Xenon playfield and it started wearing like crazy.

That was the last time anything abrasive touched any of my playfields for general cleaning.

1 week later
#1618 2 years ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

This is just an observation. Has anyone else ever noticed that it is very difficult to put up a 2 mil point score on a 7-digit game, but yet it is pretty easy to roll the later 6-digit games?

What 6-digit games are you rolling?

#1622 2 years ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

Meteor and Galaxy come to mind immediately.

Quoted from Mitch:

Set them up harder, nobody has rolled my meteor..... yet.

Set them harder for sure. Set Meteor at 7.5 degrees or just under where it feels like Pachinko. Turn the lane guides around on the Galaxy X and Y lanes so there’s more bounce action between the flippers.

Simply making Meteor harder put it in my top 5 classic Sterns.

#1627 2 years ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

That’s how they should be!
3” leg levelers, in the back, cranked way up is the way to go!

Quoted from cottonm4:

Go buy some 31” legs from PBR.

Yes go with 31” legs. 3” levelers all the way up will not be enough for Meteor.

#1632 2 years ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Will people please stop perpetuating the myth that some random pitch number of 15.946 degrees makes their game mean and hard. Sure maybe the ball is faster rolling back. But it’s slower going up! And you lose all the side to side action so your drains on the outlanes decrease. It also makes the game easy to trap balls. There is a good medium and not enough pitch makes a game play like dog doo.

I would agree with this on most games except Meteor. The playfield design has no side to side action and the single pop bumper provides no real benefit at any angle. If I didn’t tell you the angle on mine you’d just think it’s fast and that’s it.

On the other hand, people have told me to jack my Quicksilver up to 6.5 degrees. I tried that, but found the best play was when the slope was between 5.5 and 6 degrees.

I also tried Xenon at 7 degrees to make it harder, but found it too hard to make it up the ramp and the pop bumper action was not as good. 6-6.5 made it much better.

I have put a lot of science into where I set playfield slope.

#1633 2 years ago
Quoted from Mitch:

That's going overboard. Not needed.

Makes your game more stable not wobbling on the extended levelers.

#1639 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

AFAIK, QS is the only classic Stern to use a 4 -place drop assembly.


#1640 2 years ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Xenon proves the ball is slower. Too hard to go up the ramp. More pitch equals slowing down a rising ball.

This is true. Another example is the top lock on Firepower. I rebuilt my flippers with all new parts and new coils too. At 5.8 degrees I had a 75% success rate. At 5.9 degrees it dropped to 50% and 6.0 degrees it dropped to about 10%. No perceivable decrease in ball speed or flipper power, but the results didn’t lie.

Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

My meteors somewhere around 6.5 and it is plenty fast. Sensitive slings give plenty of side to side action. No rubber posts on the outlanes. Center post rubber is in because pulling a Kirk post is blasphemy.

Each game has its “sweet spot”. Meteor just happens to be one of those games that you can jack way up with no detrimental effects on gameplay.

#1643 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I did however add extra red voltage wiring to the playfield
to a Firepower many years ago.

I need to do that. WPC mechs didn’t help much over Sys6 mechs, so I added WPC coils and a 50v transformer. No missing the lock now.

#1661 2 years ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

Galaxy is gone now. I didn't like the game. The bonus count is just stupid on it. Should increment by 1K not 10K or whatever it is.

I'm not a huge fan of Galaxy either, but I have to say the game is a lot of fun when you can't tear it up via bonus. When the game makes you work hard and a "good" score is 400K, that's when it's fun.

#1663 2 years ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

I wanted to like it, considering how much time I put into it, and really like the artwork. The spinner shot is cool too. But, I just couldn't get into it. Much like Wild Fyre. I can't get into that, but it's mainly because of the wretched sound! Layout is oddly familiar, wouldn't you say?

I'm hoping I don't run into the same problem with Freefall. I've never played the game before so I have no point of reference, but the reviews I've seen are mediocre. Cool game and I want to like it so I'm going to have to work hard to make it a great player.

Wild Fyre does have a very familiar layout.

#1670 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I fixed the problem with a bent clear piece of plastic that covered the top walker switch...
It would stop the ball hop and break the speed of the ball at the same time.

Nice. I'll save that little tidbit for my restoration. Planning to bring it to TPF 2020.

#1682 2 years ago

I see 4 pinsiders on pinball owners:


1 week later
#1705 2 years ago
Quoted from brenna98:

Did my first pinball stream with my friend cloud7 on Quicksilver
Turned out pretty good.

Nice video guys.

#1761 2 years ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Catacomb is great except one flaw....[quoted image]

That's too bad the backglass peeled so badly, but at least the most important part survived.

1 week later
#1779 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Can you have them make big game playfields too? I didn’t have any luck.

And why not Dragonfist playfields while you're at it.

#1809 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I was not aware that Ali was selling for $1,000.00 plus.

Pretty much any MPU 200 game is $1k+ these days. We won't discuss the other part of the equation, though.

3 weeks later
#1878 2 years ago
Quoted from bluespin:

Are these different from the ones that Marco’s and Pinball Rescue sell?

Yes! I don’t know about Pinball Rescue, but Marco’s is printed on plain paper, not foil.

#1892 2 years ago
Quoted from bluespin:

So were the originals that came from the factory plain labels or metallic/shiny like the phoenix arcade version? Same question on the large coin door decal

Shiny. The Marco stickers are wrong.

1 week later
#1937 2 years ago
Quoted from jkashani:

I think I figure it out will keep all posted. I think it just tames the flicker.

Do all of your LEDs flicker or just some? If just some, it could be bad SCRs.

#1953 2 years ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Understood, but it is only one row of lamps, the others are fine. Any other suggestions?

I’d call Alltek. They should support their product.

#1960 2 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Never been a massive fan of it actually, never understood why everyone blows it so hard. Perhaps listening to the podcast will help me understand!

It’s got a wide open 3-spinner layout, lots of targets to hit, the unique slings and scoops and a great sound package. And of course, a great backglass.

I still think QS is the better game, but with Okaegi’s rules, or even better, Scott Charles’ rules it really shines.

2 weeks later
#2062 2 years ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Anyone want a free catacomb Backglass?[quoted image]

I have one like that. And just like mine the best part is still there.

#2076 2 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Fair as I use LEDs, but will put incandescent in when it's in your sight line.
Maybe you're not being silly at all, maybe just try it and see. Anything that will take down the number of "Hey can someone tell me where the short posts go on my machine" is fine by me
Be ready to maybe take a hit, literally, on your plastics though if they're lower. More of a chance they could get hit but I don;t watch games in super slow mo so no idea what it really looks like.

I just use LEDs and paint the side of the bulb that is in your line of sight.

#2110 2 years ago

The 12V source is unregulated. I wouldn't worry about the 16V reading.

What issues are you having?

#2118 2 years ago
Quoted from SpinnerAddict:

Some resets and my sound is cutting off at game start. Was hoping that was the issue

Resets would be caused by a bad voltage regulator or bad filter cap C23 on the SBD, or bad pins in MPU connector J4. If you haven't repinned the connector and replaced the header pins do that first.

I don't know if the sound board uses 12V unregulated power, but I would make sure your regulated 5V is solid first.

1 week later
#2189 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Thanks, but I get no flashes. The pin is frozen as shown in the pics.
I’m still running errands. It will be later before I am back home

Start by checking the voltages on the rectifier board, specifically 12V unregulated.

Then check TP1 and TP3 on the SDB. Both should be 5V.

Check MPU TP2 (12V) and TP5 (5V). That should be all you need to boot the CPU with flashes.

I would also disconnect the cables from the top of the MPU in case a sound board fault is locking up the MPU.

#2203 2 years ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Hey Classic Stern fans, I'm about to start restoring my Quicksilver and I have a question regarding the coin door. What do people do? Powdercoat or paint? And what colour? What about the coin mechs? zinc plating or polishing? Thanks.

Paint it with Rustoleum hammered silver. There is a slight blue tint to it so you could experiment with silver over blue, but silver alone is acceptable.

3 weeks later
#2316 2 years ago

Can't wait to see it in person!

1 week later
#2339 2 years ago

If you put one display at a time in your Meteor (the rest of the displays being good ones), do they have any effect on the good displays? If so, you probably have a bad decoder chip on the bad display.

#2342 2 years ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

I reflowed one to test and no change. Putting one Magic display in Meteor has no effect on the good Meteor displays.

Did you try all of them? One bad display can affect all displays.

1 week later
#2366 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

What is this nail for? What purpose for this?
[quoted image]
I just noticed that all of my Stern cabs have this short nail hammered into the cab just to the left of the coin door.
[quoted image]
Nine Ball...and the NB cab I have converted to a Quicksilver had one as well.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Dragonfist. The nail is gone but the hole is still there.
[quoted image]
Meteor has a nail as well. Not pictured

That’s so that when you swing the coin door wide the coin plate doesn’t put a big old dent in the cabinet. Bally does the same thing.

#2389 1 year ago

The side art was cool. She did a nice job on the game.

1 week later
#2422 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

How did this happen? Short story: I added credits on my Big Game. The upper limit for credits is supposed to be 40. When I had zero credits, I hit the credit button and wound up with 99 credits on the display.
I'm not complaining but this is not supposed to happen.
Any ideas?
I am using the Stern MPU-200 board.
[quoted image]

Clear the audits. My guess is there was bogus data in the credits and the game corrected it to 99.

#2451 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

What is HSTD? They are factory displays. And how do I reset?

Did you step through and clear all the audits? That looks like garbage in RAM to me.

1 week later
#2505 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

The newer plastic style pop rings might be a confusing statement to many Stern owners or those who are building a Star Gazer or Quicksilver from scratch. These rings are obsolete.
But now, due to the 3-D print capabilities, a pinsider by the name swinks, is reproducing these plastic rings once again. They are rather pricy but I consider us lucky they can even be bought.
See post #2457 thru #2462.
They are available in several different colors. The basic white ring and rod assembly costs $22.00. But the same steel parts from the other pin suppliers are going to come in at around $15.00 so there is not that much of premium if yo
u want to return to plastic. Of course, no new parts can compare to used inventory if you have a stash used parts to pick from.

Along with the Shapeways parts above, order these and drill out the rod holes to work with the plastic ring/rod parts.


1 week later
#2531 1 year ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Did you purposefully change molex over to IDC, Dave? Interesting choice.

I was going to ask the same thing.

2 months later
#2737 1 year ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

I’m trying to figure out if possible the Data East Secret Service transformer 010-5002-00 could possibly be subbed into a Quicksilver for a 16b-6

Find out what coils Secret Service uses for pop bumpers and such. If 26-1200, then yes. If 23-800 or 850, then no.

1 week later
#2767 1 year ago

I had a couple like that in my Freefall too.

#2806 1 year ago

As long as we’re posting purdy stuff. Freefall had a sh*t ton of stuff to rebuild and shine up. My fingers and elbows are tired too.
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#2808 1 year ago
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#2821 1 year ago
Quoted from dasvis:

I think you need to post more photos.

Haha I know, right? 16 mechs in this game. It felt like forever to clean everything up.

#2822 1 year ago
Quoted from Methos:

Hope you all are wearing masks with you do this work. Those particles aren't kind to lung tissue.

Me too, but with facial hair you still have to be careful when the dust is flying.

#2823 1 year ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

What are y'all using to scrub those things so shiny?

Ultrasonic cleaner, then tumble the small parts.

I used 4 or 5 grits of sandpaper from 600 to 3000 on the flat pieces.

The other parts get the Dremel with a 400 grit buff. I wish there were finer grits available, but it works pretty well.

#2824 1 year ago

I had a problem with about half of the controlled lights in Freefall that was driving me nuts. Sure it has a bunch of loose, troublesome sockets, but not this many.

I noticed the affected lamps were associated with J1 and J3 on the lamp driver board. Some of the lamps would work for a while, then stop working. I'd mess with the sockets and some would start working again, some wouldn't.

Anybody want to guess what the problem(s) were?

#2829 1 year ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

The mounting bracket on the right side for the lamp driver board was the wrong one, and the back of the J1 and J3 headers were shorting out to it?

It has the correct brackets and the board was secured properly.

J1 and J3 were repinned. J2, which appears to be working correctly, has not been repinned.

#2832 1 year ago
Quoted from bpull:

I use corn media, I use to use walnut shells but my youngest was born and has a nut allergy. So that ended that stuff!

Man that sucks. Sorry to hear that, you have to worry about every single thing that touches their body.

#2834 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I was using the corn media and decided to give walnut shells a try. I cannot tell any difference performance wise, but the walnut media gets dusty enough that I empty my tumbler outdoors. I'll probably go back to corn when it is time to buy again.

Interesting. I always thought walnut was preferred, performance-wise. I'm using some Harbor Freight walnut media now and it is very dusty. I don't remember my last batch of walnut being so dusty. It was Kaytee bird litter from PetSmart.

#2835 1 year ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

It has the correct brackets and the board was secured properly.
J1 and J3 were repinned. J2, which appears to be working correctly, has not been repinned.

I misspoke, J2 was also repinned.

#2858 1 year ago

Replaced a bunch of lamp sockets yesterday.

That didn’t fix the problem though. Because Freefall has speech, the IDC cable between the speech and lamp driver boards was the culprit. I repinned it with crimp connectors.
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#2867 1 year ago

Had to do a design modification on the ball walker in Freefall last night.

Due to buggy code, a switch bounce on the up kicker will cause the game to release a ball from the walker prematurely. The game loses track of the 2nd ball and will not play correctly for the remainder of the game.

In my case, I was on 3rd ball and I had a switch bounce on the final up kick to start multiball. It didn’t start multiball like it was supposed to, but instead released two balls in single ball play. After a short time one ball landed back in the up kicker which started multiball, but there were only two balls to release. I can’t remember what happened after that other than one or two balls ended up back in the up kicker and the last ball drained to end the game. The ball walker moved the balls once, which it shouldn’t do, but I didn’t think much about it. A few minutes later I smelled burning related to the ball walker coil being locked on.

This prompted me to re-engineer the ball walker with an EOS system, similar to what I did for Centaur. Here is the original mech and the damage (prior) to the plastic above it:

3C938202-4377-4F5F-A94A-A1D24A571DC1 (resized).jpeg86A4EC09-FCDC-4FB4-B374-CBA8CDCC555F (resized).jpeg2ED0A00B-C97F-485D-88BB-56A291122F4A (resized).jpeg

Step 1: McGyver a switch mounting bracket from an old coil stop that lost its plug. Position it, drill it and mount it. There is a plastic spacer behind the plunger link that will serve as the switch actuator.

5765D72B-4E9B-4295-9DFE-0A41C701E71E (resized).jpeg

Step 2: Ty-wrap a spare flipper coil to the side of the nearby drop target bank. The hold winding of the coil will be wired in series with the ball walker coil to reduce the current draw after the solenoid pulls in.

Step 3: Move the yellow coil power wires to the hold coil, then wire in the EOS switch (blue wires) and tie the hold coil to the ball walker coil (grey wire). As wired, the EOS switch shorts across the hold coil and takes it out of circuit as long as the EOS switch is closed. This allows full power to the ball walker coil so it can pull in when activated. Once the ball walker pulls in, the EOS switch opens and adds 350 ohms from the hold coil to the circuit, which drops the current from about 1.5 amps to 0.15 amps. At this rate of current it can stay locked on all day and it won’t damage anything.

D3CA1A60-8AED-4F95-968E-8F615CB246B6 (resized).jpeg

#2869 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

Bill is free fall's walker coil a continuous coil? It shouldn't be possible for it to lock on otherwise, at least from a software perspective.

No, it works like F2K’s ball walker, but for whatever reason it energized after the game was over and stayed that way.

I’m going to dial in the up kicker switch a little better, but I can’t trust it to make it through the weekend at TPF.

#2873 1 year ago

I made a harness and homemade switch matrix board using a proto PCB (I don’t recommend doing that, better to design and have someone else fab.)

2 weeks later
#2928 1 year ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

I have a spare populated playfield in much better shape that someday I’ll restore and clear and pop in replacement of this. Until then this one just came out of the queue and got it running. Cleaning up nice besides the giant wear spot.
[quoted image]

I, too, have a nice populated playfield that will someday find it's way into a cabinet. I look forward to playing it with slochar custom ROMs.

2973B0BA-8B3A-4309-B546-528858C31243 (resized).jpeg
#2966 1 year ago
Quoted from Madmax541:

Working a Stern PF swap.
Question installing carriage bolts
How do you install them?
Hammering in gently?
Other thoughts?

On my last restore I had several carriage bolts where the square holes in the wood were rounded out.

I drilled the bottom side out a little larger (not all the way through), installed 6-32 t-nuts and 2-1/2” machine screws screwed in from the bottom with a lock washer against the base of the t-nut. The excess length can be cut off, posts and plastics are still secured with a nut and washer, and the original look is retained.
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#3008 1 year ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

Curious if anyone knows the difference between the v1 and v2 classic Stern flipper brackets? While the layout of the screw holes is a bit different, I can't see why there would be any playing difference. The rebuild kits for both v1 and v2 are the same, but the brackets are indeed different. djblouw?

V1 brackets often break at the narrow point. The differences are: the flipper pawl, shorter bushing, lighter weight plunger, fiber link, and shorter shaft metal shoe flipper.

You can use the V2 rebuild kit, but you’ll have to reuse the bushings or buy them separately. I would replace the metal shoe flippers with the one piece molded design.

1 week later
#3048 1 year ago
Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:

Has anyone used anything more powerful than a J26-1200 for their pop bumpers? Finally finishing a Seawitch that I have been restoring for a year or so, & am unhappy with the power of the pops. Everything is rebuilt, polished the plunger, new coil stop, new coil sleeve, cleaned switches, polished rods, the usual deal etc. These coils just will not hit hard... voltages etc check out normal. I'm down to either removing some windings from these coils or trying a hotter coil. All 3 are hitting at about same level, but they are just not impressive at all, I've had many sterns with harder hitting pops. All 3 have original Stern J26-1200's. Driving me nuts, as I've got everything else playing great, all 4 flippers are hitting strong, both slings are wicked, targets dropping good etc. This was a complete PF swap & have worked through a bunch of small weird issues & this is last remaining hurdle. I'm ordering a cap kit for the sound board tomorrow & am thinking about adding some coils to my order.

Yes, I pulled 200 windings off the 26-1200 pops in my Xenon.

2 weeks later
#3101 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Stern 7-digit driver boards were longer than Bally 7-digit boards, and Stern 6-digit boards.
So, anything that is 7 digits, needed to be screwed in from the backside.
One of the reasons why I used Bally 7-digits in my Meteor instead of Stern 7-digits.

I wish all displays were screwed in from the backside. I like being able to shim them to keep them from rubbing on the glass.

#3132 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

When you guys are doing swaps / restorations how do you clean the rough under apron metals too big for the tumbler? Just rubbing alcohol the gunk off or anything to further clean / shine /smooth?

Dremel with abrasive buffs. I typically use the finest grit unless there is heavy rust/corrosion/oxidation. On straight pieces you can use sandpaper 1000-3000 grit.
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#3158 1 year ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Anyone know a source for the long screws and cupped washers that secure the apron to the playfield?

Quoted from Thrillhouse:

Any of the big 3 hardware store should have them. The screws are 10-32 fine thread and the cupped washers are just #10's. Ace is your best bet but I've found them at lowes also

They are labeled ‘finishing washers’.

#3176 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

Could someone take a picture of their underside?

I would, but the post would definitely be moderated.

#3209 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Heyyyyy! The bronze is only 600

.....and it's still wrong.

1 week later
#3250 1 year ago
Quoted from akm:

Hey guys, any tips for drop targets on the earlier classic Sterns? I have a Memory Lane I am trying to get dialed in and just can't get the drops working right. The ball will more often than not bounce off the targets (without them dropping), or the drops will go down on their own when the game kicks them back up. Really kills this game as they are a pretty important feature. Replaced all three targets and as far as I can tell, the mechs/springs/etc look fine.

First off, make sure ALL the metal pieces are smooth. The plating on Stern mechs oxidizes and acts like sandpaper, hindering the smooth operation of the drops.
Secondly, the springs may be getting a little weak. On my Freefall, the bank in the middle is close to the flippers and had the same problems yours does. I had to move the rod the springs are mounted on a little bit lower to give a bit more tension. I don’t know how much different your mech is from mine, but maybe yours has some holes a little bit lower in the sidewalls that you could use.

#3284 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Yeah. Believe it or not I’ve made it this long without one. I guess I need to get one finally.

No Dremel? Dude, you’re a masochist.

#3297 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I actually have one for my dogs nails. Haha. Still trying to figure out if I can get different attachments for it to make it like a normal dremel.

Is that the battery operated one with the high/low switch? If so, it runs too slow for cutting, but is definitely useful for other tasks.

2 weeks later
#3349 1 year ago
Quoted from China_Grove:

Has anyone used the shapeway reproduction plastic rings in their pop bumpers and had good results? Thinking of using them (reproduction) but do not know how they hold up compared to the metal rings as the originals plastic rings are almost impossible to find.

I’m the one that sent NOS parts to Swinks for reproduction. He included a blue repro set for one bumper when he sent back the original parts.

I installed the repro set in the upper right bumper of Star Gazer, the bumper that gets the most action. It’s held up very well, I haven’t had any problems with it. I really like the color too and am thinking of ordering some to color match my games.

1 week later
#3383 1 year ago
Quoted from EEE:

Any suggestions on where to find a coin return flap? It’s missing from the coin door on our Nine Ball.
Also, are the coin entry “Stern Free Play“ inserts pictured homemade or are they available as well?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

I don’t know where to find coin return flaps, but Marco carries the coin plates.

pasted_image (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#3418 1 year ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

any advice on how best to restore real rusty plungers?
[quoted image]

85B9850F-9A97-46AC-8DE7-84F16291A61D (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#3441 1 year ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

So... i replaced the power switch on one of my Stern but the replacement one from Marcos and DigiKeyare longer than the factory one, meaning they stick out from the bottom of the cabinet and would be damaged if it was laying flat on the ground...
Any other options out there that are around the same size as the original one?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Classic_Stern:

Well interesting you had this problem. I said the same thing when I replaced the switch on my Gamatron. It stuck out and said I would never lay it down. Well I go to move it about 5 years later and rip the switch right out of the cabinet. On the replacement I made a spacer that put the switch high enough so it wouldn't hit if cabinet flat on cart or bed of truck.

I noticed this with a switch I replaced too. I ended up ordering a DPST switch from Amazon that fit correctly.

4 weeks later
#3577 1 year ago
Quoted from Classic_Stern:

Oh. Yea, I think all of the games past like Big Game went to Plastic. They probably kept with the washer. I will be looking.

I reassembled my Freefall in stock form. It does not have the washers.

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#3631 1 year ago

I would have him make the brackets. The originals will be tapered with wear and people will want replacement parts that look original. I’d buy some of both parts.

#3643 1 year ago
Quoted from SergioJ:

Freefall will play differently than both of those games. Most people knock it for not having a direct shot into the ball lock, so it’s somewhat random in getting multiball going. If that bothers you, then you’ve been warned. Other than that, I think it has nice action, especially with the spinners and is fun to bang around on. Art package is decent enough and it’s an attractive game. Really nice example might go between $1500 to $2000 in my opinion.

Freefall is a pretty decent game. I like the rules... the way the bonus works, the way you get extra ball, and the spinner can be worth a ton of points. I restored mine over the winter and was going to bring it to TPF, but, well, maybe next year.

Multiball is really frustrating, though. As you said, locking balls is random and spotting all letters to light multiball is very, very difficult. And it never fails, once multiball begins, a ball or two will land back in the ball lock and be relocked. So multiball is shortlived.

The layout is cramped up top, I think. There isn't much space between the rollover lanes and the top arch. And with the tramway up against the bottom of the pop bumper, there is no action between the pops. I modified the area around the tramway a little bit on mine so at least there's a little bit of pop action. It helps.

If I could make rules changes, I would make the left target bank spot a letter and remove the relock during multiball. Also, you get more points for shooting the left target bank in order, but I never use that strategy because it's not much of a reward. I prefer to shoot for extra ball instead, by leaving the middle target standing. But I thought adding a rule to spot all letters if the targets are hit in order would be a nice reward. It's not easy to do and there's still the random luck of locking balls, so multiball would not be a gimme.

So just a few minor changes and I think it would be a really good game.

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#3659 1 year ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Are there any flipper experts in here? I've rebuilt my Quicksilver flippers but they lack power. I've rebuilt plenty of flippers previously, so I wasn't sure if it was simply me comparing to my more modern pins, or I'd forgotten about their lower comparable power.

What transformer are you using?

#3686 1 year ago
Quoted from bluespin:

Here are pictures of my mpu200 lockdown bars.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quite a handicap you’ve got on that Big Game.

#3723 1 year ago
Quoted from mappy_mouse:

Even worse, I have been looking for a decent original Dracula backglass for about 2 years to no avail.

3 weeks later
#3792 1 year ago

I’d probably buy 2 pairs.

2 months later
#4174 11 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Located down in the industrial district. I imagine working in the Stern factory was about as romantic as some of the factory jobs I had.
I used to build Coleman stoves and lanterns; I do not have fond memories of working there.

Yeah, but not as fun to play a stove or lantern.

3 weeks later
#4265 10 months ago
Quoted from emsrph:

The half dozen or so transformers I've run across have always been set up 120V. This was probably the standard for how they left the factory. Anyone know?

Mine have always been 115V and marked as such in the game.

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#4302 10 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Molex Connectors
When I am crimping pins to install into Molex connector housings sometime the pins slides in and locks tightly into position. And then right next door, the other pin slides in but is all wobbly and will pull out of the connector just bit. They will still plug in and work, but if you are working on a 6-pin connector and a few are loosy goosey it can be a little extra work getting them connected.
Why does this happen? I am using the same crimp tool for each pin. I am using the same brand of pins. This has had me scratching my head since I got started with pins 5 years ago.
With the connector in the pic, one pin is locked in all nice and tight. And the other one is sticking out.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

There is a section in the middle of the Molex round pins that should not be crimped.

A90829B1-7940-42E8-9730-FB261DD8312A (resized).jpeg

If you crimp this area, the pin will slide all the way through. A properly crimped pin will only have the wire crimped above that area.

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1 week later
#4337 10 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Photo of each with the underside shown as well. Obviously I’m having trouble with the hook on the right spinner (how do I fix this? Can’t get it to stop getting caught!) but what the heck is going on with the left? The game is set steep but not THAT steep (6.2)
[quoted image][quoted image]

The spinner is not weighted. It relies on the switch blade tension to bring it to vertical position. You need more tension on the switch blades.

2 weeks later
#4390 9 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Screw that. Take the easy road, man. Order these Pinball Life pops in black with the AE-26-1200 coil, add a diode that will not be there and get it put together. $50.00 bucks a pop and you are done. Just don't forget to add the diode. If you don't like the black color then paint them off-white.
I love these pop assemblies with the switches as part of the assembly. Install with molex connectors and you can remove them from the play field and make accurate adjustments to the switch and spoon out in the open.
But I think you can buy all of the other parts on Pinball Life except for the coil mounting plate. You will have to make that.
[quoted image]

Just to add to this, drill out the rod holes in the base and use your plastic rod/ring and yokes.

#4412 9 months ago

Is your new switch isolated from the coin door? It sounds like it’s shorting.