(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).


By Mitch

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,332 posts
  • 195 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 45 minutes ago by frunch
  • Topic is favorited by 100 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 705 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_20191011_202109796 (resized).jpg
IMG_3771 (1) (resized).png
IMG_2100 (resized).JPG
IMG_2099 (resized).JPG
IMG_2098 (resized).JPG
IMG_2097 (resized).JPG
IMG_2093 (resized).JPG
IMG_2089 (resized).JPG
IMG_2087 (resized).JPG
IMG_2081 (resized).JPG
IMG_2079 (resized).JPG
IMG_2072 (resized).JPG
IMG_2070 (resized).JPG
IMG_2069 (resized).JPG
IMG_2064 (resized).JPG
IMG_2063 (resized).JPG

Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 2332 posts in this topic. You are on page 40 of 47.
#1951 70 days ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Understood, but it is only one row of lamps, the others are fine. Any other suggestions?

Ok, you did not say that you installed the 555 lamp boards from pinball replacement parts so I assume you still have original factory metal plates with the #44 bulb sockets in your Nine Ball.

Those metal plates get to be a pain with lousy connections. Could some of your sockets be corroding at those metal plates and be the problem?

If you have not installed a set of these I highly recommend you consider them.

https://pinballreplacementparts.com/products/stern-nine-ball-complete-set-of-boards-to-replace-metal-panel-sockets

#1952 70 days ago

Wow! Thanks will try the above mentioned resistors first and if that does not work than I will buy this. Thank you and all others who have chimed in.

Quoted from cottonm4:

Ok, you did not say that you installed the 555 lamp boards from pinball replacement parts so I assume you still have original factory metal plates with the #44 bulb sockets in your Nine Ball.
Those metal plates get to be a pain with lousy connections. Could some of your sockets be corroding at those metal plates and be the problem?
If you have not installed a set of these I highly recommend you consider them.
https://pinballreplacementparts.com/products/stern-nine-ball-complete-set-of-boards-to-replace-metal-panel-sockets

#1953 70 days ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Understood, but it is only one row of lamps, the others are fine. Any other suggestions?

I’d call Alltek. They should support their product.

#1954 70 days ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Wow! Thanks will try the above mentioned resistors first and if that does not work than I will buy this. Thank you and all others who have chimed in.

If you do buy these boards you will also need to buy the black twist in sockets.

#1955 70 days ago

Edit - cotton found what I was thinking of.

#1956 70 days ago
Quoted from jkashani:

I put leds in my inserts on my nine ball, hooked up the altek led driver board and attached the wire from the led board to a control lamp but I still am getting flicker? Compared it to my lightning with leds and I don’t think I I did anything wrong. Anyone have a similar issue? If someone had one that is working with leds can you advise as to where you hooked up the wire from the led board. Thank you

MPU200 games with the increased clock speed start to update the feature lamps when the feature lamp bus voltage is lower than Bally games. Because of that lamps are much more likely to "flicker" from lack of latching in Stern MPU200 games.

There are many variables as to why you may see flickering in one game over another. Feature lamp bus voltage differences from transformer variances. Line cord voltage. CPU clock speed. Resistance in connectors. Resistance in lamp sockets. And finely not all SCRs are created equal, it even varies in a lot from part to part. Recently i have tested On semi, UTC, and a Chinese brand from LCSC SCRs. The cheapest Chinese brand SCRs actually had the best performance for being able to latch at a low current... go figure.
https://datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/Changjiang-Electronics-Tech-CJ-MCR100-6_C77884.pdf

When I am testing these lamp boards I use Big Game software, 3mm red led with 1k ohm current limiting resistor and a 560 ohm load resistor. After letting the board get warmed up if every SCR latches at that point it should be safe to use in about any game.

If you have a MPU200 or other game with a replacement lamp driver yet a few lamps still flicker the easiest fix for you to do is to add more load by putting a resistor across the lamp socket. 470ohm to 1k ohm should be sufficient. Just right across the lamp leads on the playfield.

#1957 70 days ago

Thanks for the explanation. A few posts up I posted another pinside a suggestion to put 1.5k 1/4 watt resistors in the same fashion you suggested.

Quoted from barakandl:

MPU200 games with the increased clock speed start to update the feature lamps when the feature lamp bus voltage is lower than Bally games. Because of that lamps are much more likely to "flicker" from lack of latching in Stern MPU200 games.
There are many variables as to why you may see flickering in one game over another. Feature lamp bus voltage differences from transformer variances. Line cord voltage. CPU clock speed. Resistance in connectors. Resistance in lamp sockets. And finely not all SCRs are created equal, it even varies in a lot from part to part. Recently i have tested On semi, UTC, and a Chinese brand from LCSC SCRs. The cheapest Chinese brand SCRs actually had the best performance for being able to latch at a low current... go figure.
https://datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/Changjiang-Electronics-Tech-CJ-MCR100-6_C77884.pdf
When I am testing these lamp boards I use Big Game software, 3mm red led with 1k ohm current limiting resistor and a 560 ohm load resistor. After letting the board get warmed up if every SCR latches at that point it should be safe to use in about any game.
If you have a MPU200 or other game with a replacement lamp driver yet a few lamps still flicker the easiest fix for you to do is to add more load by putting a resistor across the lamp socket. 470ohm to 1k ohm should be sufficient. Just right across the lamp leads on the playfield.

#1958 69 days ago

I'm sure most of you love or at the very least love STARGAZER as I do. =)

A podcast treat awaits you in our latest Podcast #6 where we talk everything STARGAZER!

George and I talk in length about this most excellent game and it's history as well as the other Classic Stern titles the artist and designer for Stargazer accomplished during their run. AND this time around, we properly capture the sounds of the game in all its glory! We even play a few games and add colorful commentary. =) Be sure to hang on to the very end for a special easter egg. Did someone say Stern Junk? Blasphemy!

And for those left wanting on our Quicksilver episode, We also go back into that one in an addendum episode (Episode #5.1) to get all it's sounds recorded the way they should be heard up close and personal as well. =)

Accessible via any of the links below:
https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-classic-pinball-podcast/id1469743456
https://www.breaker.audio/the-classic-pinball-podcast
https://open.spotify.com/show/6JGvAzDFwCSJUwwWgBMCDd
https://radiopublic.com/the-classic-pinball-podcast-WR95kj
https://overcast.fm/itunes1469743456/the-classic-pinball-podcast

Pics of my STARGAZER below.

Happy Flippin' and listening,
David
pinballdoctor.com
DSC05016 (resized).JPGDSC05017 (resized).JPGDSC05018 (resized).JPGDSC05019 (resized).JPGDSC05020 (resized).JPGDSC05021 (resized).JPGDSC05022 (resized).JPGDSC05023 (resized).JPGDSC05024 (resized).JPGDSC05025 (resized).JPG

#1959 69 days ago

Never been a massive fan of it actually, never understood why everyone blows it so hard. Perhaps listening to the podcast will help me understand!

#1960 69 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Never been a massive fan of it actually, never understood why everyone blows it so hard. Perhaps listening to the podcast will help me understand!

It’s got a wide open 3-spinner layout, lots of targets to hit, the unique slings and scoops and a great sound package. And of course, a great backglass.

I still think QS is the better game, but with Okaegi’s rules, or even better, Scott Charles’ rules it really shines.

#1961 69 days ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

It’s got a wide open 3-spinner layout, lots of targets to hit, the unique slings and scoops and a great sound package. And of course, a great backglass.
I still think QS is the better game, but with Okaegi’s rules, or even better, Scott Charles’ rules it really shines.

I’m not familiar with either of these, how do I learn more?

#1962 69 days ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

It’s got a wide open 3-spinner layout, lots of targets to hit, the unique slings and scoops and a great sound package. And of course, a great backglass.

Nah, that's not it

#1963 69 days ago

Thanks for talking about older games on a podcast. I like the other podcasts out there but as interesting as the latest JJP or Stern is there is a zero percent chance of me ever dropping 9 grand on a pin. There are so many great old games and most of the podcasts ignore them.

#1965 68 days ago

Yay, I'll finally be in the Stern club soon!
Bout time, considering how many of my boards are in your machines.

-Hans

#1966 68 days ago

Been doing a complete restore on my Dragonfist and have found a couple interesting surprises.
The coin door has a factory tag that says Viper.
When sanding the cabinet down the head reveals that it may have initially been intended for Catacomb (or some other green game). Base of the cabinet doesn't have the same greet base coat.
Wondering if they capped the run at 302 once they ran out of parts to scavenge..
IMG_20190719_131144 (resized).jpgIMG_20190730_213220 (resized).jpgIMG_20190730_215900 (resized).jpgIMG_20190730_104555 (resized).jpgBackglass (resized).jpg

#1967 68 days ago

Yes indeed. That looks like it was destined to be a Catacomb early on then scrapped it for DF.

#1968 68 days ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Yay, I'll finally be in the Stern club soon!
Bout time, considering how many of my boards are in your machines.
-Hans

Finally! Welcome aboard!

#1969 67 days ago

Would non ghosting LED's work?

Quoted from jkashani:

Thanks for the explanation. A few posts up I posted another pinside a suggestion to put 1.5k 1/4 watt resistors in the same fashion you suggested.

#1970 67 days ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Would non ghosting LED's work?

God we wish!

#1971 67 days ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Would non ghosting LED's work?

probably not. I think the non ghosting ones have rectifier diodes and a capacitor inside of them, but nothing to add load.

If someone had LED lamps made with a built in resistor wired across the leads it could make the replacement LED boards with loading resistors not needed.

A software change to make the feature lamps update farther away from the zero cross point when the feature lamp voltage is higher would probably eliminate the need loading for resistors too. The original idea with incandescent was to turn on the lamps close to zero volts as possible to reduce wear on the lamp filaments... but that makes the LEDs not pull enough current to latch the SCR and you get flickering.

#1972 66 days ago
Quoted from Classics_Master:

Hey guys, just noticed something interesting on my original Quicksilver backglass... I noticed that the “Match” wasn’t lighting up, even though the lamp is good and on. The reason why is the masking for the word Match on the glass isn’t transparent? Are they all this way? The Match is also located in a black area near the green, where it would be very hard to see anyway. Early production glass? Thought you all may want to check on your quicksilver machines and Let me know if this is the same with all of them. (I’ve attached some close up pics of the Match from the back of glass for reference) thanks![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Some I have come across have the same issue: The match is grayed out so it won't show when back lit. I think this is in the minority of Quicksilvers though and maybe the ones with the grayed out are factory seconds.

Added 65 days ago:

But more likely as others have stated, it was for entry into markets where winning a game wasn't allowed.

#1973 66 days ago
Quoted from DRDAVE:

Some I have come across have the same issue: The match is grayed out so it won't show when back lit. I think this is in the minority of Quicksilvers though and maybe the ones with the grayed out are factory seconds.

If match is grayed out, I'd imagine it was for a geographical area that didn't allow you to win free games due to gambling laws.

#1974 66 days ago
Quoted from barakandl:

probably not. I think the non ghosting ones have rectifier diodes and a capacitor inside of them, but nothing to add load.
If someone had LED lamps made with a built in resistor wired across the leads it could make the replacement LED boards with loading resistors not needed.
A software change to make the feature lamps update farther away from the zero cross point when the feature lamp voltage is higher would probably eliminate the need loading for resistors too. The original idea with incandescent was to turn on the lamps close to zero volts as possible to reduce wear on the lamp filaments... but that makes the LEDs not pull enough current to latch the SCR and you get flickering.

The previous owner of Comet tried to develop an LED to do this, but he kept having issues with his supplier getting the design wrong, and eventually dropped the project. I think there was also concern with how LED's that had an internal load resistor would react to other machines.

-Hans

#1975 66 days ago

I have asked this question, in more detail in the catacomb thread but figured I would see if anyone here has an ideas for the issues I have.

In a nutshell, every time a drop target bank is completed, the game adds 20000 points.

It also adds it in the bagatelle.

There isn't even anything in the game that awards 20000 points!

Any clues from anyone?

I realise it has done it the whole time I have owned it and for last owner, looking at their high score.

Thanks

#1976 66 days ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

I have asked this question, in more detail in the catacomb thread but figured I would see if anyone here has an ideas for the issues I have.
In a nutshell, every time a drop target bank is completed, the game adds 20000 points.
It also adds it in the bagatelle.
There isn't even anything in the game that awards 20000 points!
Any clues from anyone?
I realise it has done it the whole time I have owned it and for last owner, looking at their high score.
Thanks

All of the drop banks do this? Can you pull the roms out and verify them in a burner?

Maybe you have a different version of the roms than what's commonly available.

#1977 66 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

All of the drop banks do this? Can you pull the roms out and verify them in a burner?
Maybe you have a different version of the roms than what's commonly available.

Yes, all 4 drop target banks.

Can't pull roms out - they have same numbers as whats out there.

The other odd thing is that there are 3 rollovers in each bagatelle lane. On 3 lanes it's the third rollover that triggers the extra 20000.

On the last lane, it's the second rollover that gives the extra 20000.

Maybe a hard wired fault?

My Catacomb has the letters, not numbers on the grid, if that makes any difference.

Thanks

#1978 66 days ago

WTF...makes no sense. 20K is MASSIVE!
No idea on this stuff but it's "gotta" be the ROMs

#1979 66 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

WTF...makes no sense. 20K is MASSIVE!
No idea on this stuff but it's "gotta" be the ROMs

Roms pictured!

IMG_5763 (resized).jpgIMG_5765 (resized).jpgIMG_5766 (resized).jpg
#1980 66 days ago

Streamed both Stargazer and Quicksilver with cloud7

Star Gazer https://www.twitch.tv/videos/464536445
Quicksilver https://www.twitch.tv/videos/439686003

We will be making a series of videos from games in my collection. If you favorite Turbografx7 on twitch, you’ll get notified when the next video comes out.

#1981 66 days ago

Picked up a Dracula recently and got it up and running - fun game i can't wait to shop out and get humming. I asked my son (7) what he thought of it after his first several plays and he said "yeah it's pretty fun i think i like the shots but what's 'dracula' about it?"

I think it's because it sounds like a space battle theme.

Setting complete historical purity aside for a moment - has anyone ever modded a stern of this era to play alternate sounds? I'm thinking about how cool it could be to replace the sounds with something more melodic, minor, and "Dracula" sounding. Using same lengths and triggers and true-to-era electronic sounds.

Anybody ever do this kind of thing?

#1982 65 days ago
Quoted from brandsilence:

Setting complete historical purity aside for a moment - has anyone ever modded a stern of this era to play alternate sounds? I'm thinking about how cool it could be to replace the sounds with something more melodic, minor, and "Dracula" sounding. Using same lengths and triggers and true-to-era electronic sounds.
Anybody ever do this kind of thing?

Talk to drypaint . He did exactly this to his Stern Dracula using a WAV trigger board and an added speaker in the cabinet. Sounds great

#1983 65 days ago
Quoted from brandsilence:

Picked up a Dracula recently and got it up and running - fun game i can't wait to shop out and get humming. I asked my son (7) what he thought of it after his first several plays and he said "yeah it's pretty fun i think i like the shots but what's 'dracula' about it?"
I think it's because it sounds like a space battle theme.
Setting complete historical purity aside for a moment - has anyone ever modded a stern of this era to play alternate sounds? I'm thinking about how cool it could be to replace the sounds with something more melodic, minor, and "Dracula" sounding. Using same lengths and triggers and true-to-era electronic sounds.
Anybody ever do this kind of thing?

I did it with a Bally projet couple years ago

https://www.maaca.org/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=13839&hilit=Lost#p116539

#1984 65 days ago

Someone converted a Flash Gordon into a custom Ghostbusters machine and used a similar approach to RedKetchup for custom sounds, here's the link:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbusters-custom-pinball-inside-look#post-748212

#1985 65 days ago

Can an SB-300 be used in place of an SB-100?

#1986 65 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Can an SB-300 be used in place of an SB-100?

Unfortunately, no. If it did, it would make me revisit some of the -100 games with wretched sound.

Jim

#1987 65 days ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

Unfortunately, no. If it did, it would make me revisit some of the -100 games with wretched sound.
Jim

Anyone wants to convert some mpu100 games over to chimes LMK and I'll look at the software

#1988 65 days ago

New addition being picked up.

IMG_1875 (resized).jpg
#1989 65 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Anyone wants to convert some mpu100 games over to chimes LMK and I'll look at the software

Please look at Nugent for chimes.

#1990 64 days ago

Set up in the workshop. Time to truly learn the way of the Stern. Typical battery corrosion right of passage.

Going to take a big cleanup job, I’m convinced this thing has been sitting since the mid 80’s.

I’m going to have fun with this one.

CA12F0B2-A98E-47E5-937E-97BECFA2CFEE (resized).jpeg
#1991 64 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Anyone wants to convert some mpu100 games over to chimes LMK and I'll look at the software

Dracula, Trident and Wildfire could use the chime treatment.
So glad Stars was made with chimes instead of that glorified cash register MPU100 sound board

#1992 64 days ago
Quoted from Methos:

New addition being picked up.[quoted image]

Did you buy that from my buddy James in Mass?

#1993 63 days ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Did you buy that from my buddy James in Mass?

Yes. Cabinet has seen better days but the pf is very nice.

#1994 63 days ago

Anyone know how many Meteors were made with countersunk coin doors vs not or which one is more common? I have five Meteors now, three countersunk and two not. I also noticed the corners of the cabs are cut different based on coin door.

66BE58E6-4B4B-49D5-9363-F0333EDBC527 (resized).jpegEAD70350-7105-4183-95F6-16DEE5EDC589 (resized).jpeg
#1995 63 days ago
Quoted from jab:

Anyone know how many Meteors were made with countersunk coin doors vs not or which one is more common? I have five Meteors now, three countersunk and two not. I also noticed the corners of the cabs are cut different based on coin door.[quoted image][quoted image]

Check serial numbers... I believe that the counter sink games should be the earlier design.
( leftover cabinets from the E.M. games ) Chicago Coin Dynamics.

#1996 63 days ago
Quoted from jab:

Anyone know how many Meteors were made with countersunk coin doors vs not or which one is more common? I have five Meteors now, three countersunk and two not. I also noticed the corners of the cabs are cut different based on coin door.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from vec-tor:

Check serial numbers... I believe that the counter sink games should be the earlier design.
( leftover cabinets from the E.M. games ) Chicago Coin Dynamics.

My Dracula cabinet, my Hot Hand cabinet, and my Meteor cabinet all have the the sunken doors. I don't know about Magic which was the last MPU-100 Stern produced.

I agree with vec-tor that this was a carry over from Chicago Coin cabinets. Eliminating the the sunken door design was about cutting unnecessary production costs. A sunken door will not make a pin play any better and nobody at the bar would notice, anyway

#1997 62 days ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Set up in the workshop. Time to truly learn the way of the Stern. Typical battery corrosion right of passage.
Going to take a big cleanup job, I’m convinced this thing has been sitting since the mid 80’s.
I’m going to have fun with this one.[quoted image]

I wish my back glass was that nice.

#1998 62 days ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

I wish my back glass was that nice.

With your machine, I can't say I blame you. That thing is phenomenal looking.
Unfortunately, since BGResto can't do mirrored glasses, and mine isn't good enough for CPR, I don't know what options are out there.
Tried to e-mail mayfair amusements, but the email bounced.

My plastics are actually near perfect though, so I'm supposed to send some photos to Stu tonight to see if CPR may be able to do new plastic sets at least.

-Hans

#1999 62 days ago
Quoted from HHaase:

...
Unfortunately, since BGResto can't do mirrored glasses,...

He might be able to if you supply the mirrored backglass itself. Apparently the paint can be stripped off them and then new paint put on.

17
#2000 62 days ago

I am being reunited with my Catacomb on Friday.

A7ABC89B-18B5-4257-AB41-004964F627B0 (resized).jpeg689920DF-F2B0-4DD3-9E11-4DCE6BB3FFC8 (resized).jpeg

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 19.95
$ 24.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
$ 2.00
Playfield - Decals
Doc's Pinball Shop
From: $ 15.00
$ 50.00
There are 2332 posts in this topic. You are on page 40 of 47.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside