All the S & T schematics are the same.

Yeah, unscheduled downtime. It gives me time to jet back over here and see what's happening.

Thanks for the link. I downloaded one schematic split into two images, marked SQUAWK & TALK SCHEMATIC AS, Model Number 1215, final date 1-9-81. The schematic Part Number is pretty smudged in both appearances of it but looks like W-1250.

I'll add it to our manual that we labeled "English Manual (Squawk & Talk Assy, missing pages 21 & 25, paginated schematics)" since I believe that's where users would look for it. Curious that it was missing.

Thank you.

It's now in that manual. Thank you, bluebomber.

Jay
IPDB

Not all S&T are the same, the board went through several amendments...
Flash Gordon S&T is flawed.
Eight Ball Deluxe is corrected.
Centaur is amended and changed for "Say It Again" board.
Late model S&T boards are downward compatible.

8 years ago, I decied to clean the corrosion off my MPU board. I removed all teh socketed IC chips, and never put them back. Now I cannot remember which IC chips go into which sockets. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Brad

if you go on IPDB, the manual with schematics will show you P/N for each of these chips.

My FG chips got mixed up with ones from a Supersonic. Are any of the removable IC's common with other -35 games?

The socketed chips at U7, U8, U9, U10 and U11 are interchangeable with other -35 boards.
U7 is a 6810 RAM chip
U8 is a 5101 RAM chip
U9 is a 6800 CPU chip
U10 is a 6821 PIA chip
U11 is a 6821 PIA chip
Yes, U10 and U11 are the same chip.

The socket ROM chips at U1/U2 and U6 however are game specific. If you post pictures of them we can tell you which ones are Supersonic and which are Flash Gordon ROMs.

I hope this works.

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In order of pictures:

1. P5101 = U8
2. E-720-30-U6 = SuperSonic U6
3. E-741-08-U2 = SuperSonic U2
4. E-741-10-U1 = SuperSonic U1
5. S6800P = U9
6. 620-29 = U10 and U11
7. 620-29 = U10 and U11
8. MCM6810P = U7
9. --- Top Left: E-720-20-U6 = Mata Hari U6
9. --- Top Right: E-725-21-U2 = Mata Hari U2
9. --- Middle Left: = U7
9. --- Middle Right: E720-52 U6 = Flash Gordon U6
9. --- Bottom: P5101L-3 = U8
10. --- Top: F6820PC = U10 and U11
10. --- Middle: MC6821P = U10 and U11
10. --- Bottom: S6800P = U9
11. --- Top: MC6821P = U10 and U11
11. --- Middle: MC6820P = U10 and U11
11. --- Bottom: F6800P = U9
12. --- Top: 620-29 = U10 and U11
12. --- Bottom: MC6800L = U9
13. 620-30 = U7
14. 5101E-3 = U8
15. MCM6810S = U7
16. E720-52 U6 = Flash Gordon U6
17. What's printed on the label? not enough detail, U2 or U6 for some game.
18. S6821P = U10 and U11
19. S6821P = U10 and U11

Put labels on each chip with their U number so you know where they go.

Thanks Quench. Thank you very much. I was so worried I would not be able to figure this out. The Flash Gordon U6, is that the one that has program on it? Do Have all the IC's for the Flash Gordon?

Thanks in advance,
Brad

There's two I marked as Flash Gordon U6. They do have program code in them but technically they aren't Flash Gordon specific. Those particular U6 ROM chips contain "system" code and are also used on other games, specifically Eight Ball Deluxe, Fireball II and Embryon.

The ROM chip at U2 is specific to Flash Gordon and is what's known as the "personality" code.
I can't see it in your picture list though it most likely is the purple one in picture 17. Need to know what's printed on the white sticker to be certain.

You have plenty of the other chips needed to populate the MPU board.

BTW, if you're not aware, chips are directional. If you plug them in backwards, they will in most cases die.
Follow the half notch on the short end of the chips with the silk screened socket notch on the MPU board.

Yes,yes,yes, They call the small cluster of programs in U6 as an utility ROM.

13. Has 24 pins and I was able to read it 620-30 7741-C
17. Has 24 pins. From what I can read it is TMS2532 and under that is 81C. I cannot make out the remaining charecters. It might be 14 after 81C.

Thanks again,
Brad

I'm starting to repopulate my FG playfield after getting my new one clearcoated. Somehow I lost my memory card (it's been a year since tear down) that had 60+ pictures stored on it. There are dozens of pictures posted here I can use. Does anyone have a picture of the power braid routing on the bottom of the PF before assemblies are added? I usually replace the braid and the lamp sockets with new when doing a swap.

I've got issues with my S&T on FG and wonder if it is related to the generation but the issues are intermittent - garbled and incomplete audio, not sure where to look.

Have the caps and pots been replaced?

Hopefully this helps.
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That's perfect! Exactly what I needed. Thanks!

Ah, thanks for the clarification vec-tor on Bally calling U6 a "utility" ROM.

13. 620-30 is Ballys part number of a Motorola 6810 RAM chip that goes in U7 (post #1611 above updated).
17. TMS2532 is the part number of an EPROM chip which can be programmed with code/data. That's a general EPROM part number that doesn't refer to anything programmed in it. The white label stuck to the chip should have details written/printed on it specifying what/version of info it's programmed with. If nothings written on the label, you would have to use an EPROM programmer to read its contents to determine what's in it.
Suffice to say though, of all the chip pictures you posted it's the only one likely to be a U2 Flash Gordon ROM chip.

Hey all. Just joined the club. I am interested in doing a hard top but I can’t find one. Did outside edge stop making them?

They do limited runs of them. Be patient.

There was nothing on the label. I have access to a programmer. Thanks for your help, I was afraid I was screwed.

Brad

I am in need of just the top left corner plastic. Does anyone have a spare I can buy?

Good luck, I ended up buying a complete set from CPR after looking for a year. Seems to be a commonly broken part.

True. I cut two broken pieces to fix that part of the playfield.

You’ll have to google it, but I was on the hunt a few years back and found a shop in England (I think - definitely Europe) that was selling that plastic. Very common to be busted from lifting the PF. I ended up just buying a new set from CPR since I needed a couple of other plastics.

Pinball.center/en/

About $45 shipped though.

I do. I bought a new CPR set for mine. I'll PM.

Started the re-population of my PF today. Does anyone have a source for new upper PF lanes guides? Bally #A-3032-64 and -65? Cliffy makes new ramps, I have a set on order but not these.

??? pix?

Vid did a thread on making them but that's a pile of work and equipment needed.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/making-new-ball-guides-from-scratch-vids-guide

My lower right coil keeps melting. I am wondering if I wired it incorrectly after a rebuild, if anyone has time to snap a picture of the wiring there I would sincerely appreciate it, ty!

Hard to tell from the photo with all the wires but before it heats up is it operating correctly? I am wondering if you have the EOS wired to the lower power coil instead of the high power one. Also by any chance are your diodes new or in backwards?

Thanks for the pic. Yes it operates fine until it melt the sleeve and the fipper no longer operates. Not sure that you mean by "The EOS wired to the lower power coil instead..."?

I rebuilt the flippers and didnt touch diodes. I assume I wired something incorrectly or need a new EOS... hmm.

If just you turn on the machine, does the coil heat up? Or only when you start a game, or only when you start a game and actually use the flippers? Each condition tells us something different.

Your closed EOS is supposed to be a short circuit cutting out the lower power coil during the power stroke. When you hit end of stroke, the switch opens (make sure it is clearly open) it puts the low power coil in series with the high power coil dropping current draw and letting your flipper stay actuated but only draw minimal power. Something is really wrong if it heats up and that can really only happen by pulling a lot of current.

As your EOS degrades, your low power coil (high resistance coil) is progressively more and more staying in the circuit. That will never overheat anything, it just gives weaker and weaker flipper behaviour. So don't change the EOS until we solve the heat problem.

Dupe post

Thanks for the info - I'll get everything soldered up again tonight and report back!

Checked wiring, all good
Started it up, no sound now
Coil doesnt get hot with the game on and/or started.
I didnt try flipping, but both coils melted during games previously when flipping.

You will have to try using the flippers, hold a flipper button but keep a hand on the flipper coil. Normally it should heat up to coffee mug temperature and do so fairly slowly. If it heats up quickly and keeps heating up.

The sound thing is weird. My own FG used to randomly boot up without sound. Power cycling always fixed it. After rebuilding the power supply, primarily the large capacitor it stopped happening.

Posting an update here:

Rebooted - game had sound this time.
Started the game, flipped around for about a min, got warm but not HOT
Held coil down, started to get hot, so I turned off the game.

Hey Guys... when should my strobe light be on? I think I’m having some irregularities. Right now it occasionally works in attract mode. I think I had a full day where I didn’t see it at all, last night it was on again in attract mode after I played a few games. Does it ever come on during game play?

I believe when you have the ball in the middle up/down saucer it should call "FLASH"
and back box strobe goes off.

I'm having a local sheet metal guy I know reproduce 6 sets of these. I ordered the stainless and 4 sets are spoken for. PM if interested in a set.

Seems like a cool project. And for $20 with the ability to switch between the original and modified code, I think it's a no-brainer. Cant wait to see more!

Might be a reasonable idea then to improve the submissions interface to avoid this?