Quoted from AUKraut:

3 rear lip targets supposed to go to a specific place on the playfield?

Quoted from Fytr:

Does anybody know if the targets on this era of Bally games ever used backing foam?
Finishing up my FG restore and none of my stand-up targets have foam behind them. Wondering if I should add it or if it it's considered "as intended" without it?

Quoted from Jappie:

Hi fellow FG owners,
I've just received the new drop targets that I ordered on Ebay from Classic Arcades.
I was under the impression that these were supposed to be hot stamped, but the ones I received have decals on them. The ones I ordered for my Fireball II were actually hot stamped.
Does anybody know the story behind this?
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Quoted from Nokoro:

Anyone know the exact part number for the bayonet lamp sockets used for the inserts and GI in Flash Gordon? The parts manual lists four or five different types and doesn’t seem to specify which are used where.

Quoted from zacaj:

empor-roo the great?

Quoted from Nokoro:

Had a great game last night where I finally combined 5x bonus with 5x playfield scoring and then shot the shooter lane to collect. Ended up with 3.4 million in points on a three ball game. Great fun!

Quoted from AUKraut:

Sure thing! Also, as I discovered the Bally factory used some shims as well!

Quoted from Boise_D:

thanks for the help on flipper base plates. I did see that they are reversible and self-tapping with the black screws. The flipper kit helped a bunch. Some odd things: the set screws in the flipper kit are great - they were the bigger ones that stick out of the crank. I prefer those, but there are 3 places where you can put the 2 screws and neither are ideal. One of them will interfere with the EOS at the top of the stroke, and maybe even prevent it from being pulled back by the spring. The other lines up with the nylon washer thing on the plunger, and is hard to get to. Maybe these pictures will help. I didn't get the coil lugs in the right spot the way I wanted to, per Vid recommendation. The other odd thing is the secondary EOS switch, which had the barrel-shaped plastic riser. Not as nice as the triangle one.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from UNCgump:

once it's dropped, it keeps making the blasting sound and awarding 10k points with the slightest agitation of the machine (flipping, nudging etc). annoying from a sound standpoint, but also totally screws up accurate scoring. i have done my best to clean the contact and to reposition the blades on the switch.

Quoted from UNCgump:

Yeah, only does it when down. I cleaned and repositioned it awhile back and the issue resolved for a few weeks. There's quite a bit of wear and some rust (apparently) which I can only do so much about. It seems likes it's easy for it to contact and then gap by a fraction of an inch of movement, thus leading to this problem. It just looks like replacing switches is a bit more tedious work than I'm used to doing (I have less experience with the electrical stuff), so I was curious for people's take on working on these things.

Quoted from mkdud:

Hello Saviors Club. I have been at work restoring the cabinet for my FG #8396, and I'm finally ready to start putting it together again. I need help and advice on how to proceed. Please help if you can.
My original playfield was changed to a new CPR playfield over 8 years ago. I did not do the changeover. I paid someone to do it; I didn't have a playfield jig or a proper place to do the work. The new playfield has never been tested in the machine yet. It was stored in a dry heated closet in bubble wrap for the past 8+/- years. I wanted to restore the cabinet before putting in the new playfield. Repainting the cabinet was my "stay at home" activity over the past month or so.
I think some of my star rollovers need the clear cleaned out of them; they don't seem to want to go in all the way. What is the best way to clean these out, and should I do it with the playfield out of the cabinet?
Also, the new CPR playfield has never actually been plugged into the cabinet yet. What things should I check before plugging the playfield in? My boards were all fully working 8 years ago when they were stored with the new CPR playfield. I'm nervous about plugging it in.
I appreciate any advice you can offer! Thank You!
Also, thanks F2k for helping explain my coin door / volume pot
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Quoted from gdonovan:

Expand on this please, I might be missing a piece

Quoted from mkdud:

Thanks for the responses. I will try to get the lamp cover and I will double the rings on the DT's. I also really appreciate the advice on powering up. When this was done for me 8 years ago, I looked at the top of the PF and thought "how nice! the CPR PF looks so much better than my old worn out original PF".
So, I start taking a good look at the underside of the PF to begin working on the star rollovers.
WOW, I should have looked at the underside before! I am REALLY paranoid about plugging this in. Missing screws, a totally jacked up pop bumper, missing pop bumper mounting screws, I think I'm going to be sick. Bus wires frayed and all over the place, no heat shrink on soldered connections, uggghhhhh!
I spent a chunk ($1000, I believe) to have the changeover done, trusting that they would do a good job. I wish now I would have had a jig and the workspace and time to do it myself. Am I being too picky with this? Is this acceptable?
PLEASE advise how I should go about doing this. PLEASE feel free to call out problem areas you see.
I'm thinking of building myself a jig and just gradually going through the whole thing and trying to do it better than what I'm seeing here. Thanks much, mk
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Quoted from jesperpark:

A question for the group, the fuse F1 on the rectifier board in the bottom of the cabinet. Is that supposed to be a fast blow or slow blow 20 amp fuse? Not sure what happened as I am putting everything back together after a hardtop Install. Found it had a 15amp fast blow in it, so that is not correct

Quoted from jesperpark:

A question I have is which of the rollover switches causes the drop target to come up for the Skill/reflex shot?

Quoted from slochar:

Do you have the 5200 or the 5220 chip on the S&T? Speech is formatted for the 5200.
See this video:

Quoted from mkdud:

My S&T sounds just like the one in the video when the TMS 5200 is tested, and my S&T has a TMS 5200. So, I guess what I'm hearing as "troya dell earthiling" is how it is supposed to sound.
Please explain the -5v flaw with the 1st gen S&T. My FG is serial # 8396, so I'm guessing my S&T is a later gen model.

Quoted from Robotworkshop:

If I'm not mistaken you can also tell by looking at J2 since the early board only seems to have a 6-pin connector there.
Was there a tech note from Bally to modify the early S&T boards in regards to that -5V? I have one of those early S&T boards that I'm working on now and can do any needed mods while here.

Quoted from wamonkey:

So, if I read what you are saying - there is only the one plug sent to the S&T and it is the 15 pin connector, no other plugs connected?

Quoted from wamonkey:

Revision D - will I have issues? I had no sound board in my game when I got it so this is what I could get.

Quoted from wamonkey:

Here is the sound board...looks right to the diagrams I got...
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Quoted from Quench:

The early schematic calls it a "flash module" not "strobe module". Without the 115VAC connections, the "4 strobe lights" and 43 volt connections I suspect it originally had a circuit that just flashed four 12v incandescent lights connected in series and switched across the 43 volt circuit - somewhat like the flashing lights in Fireball II doodle bug area.
Do you have the extra 115VAC transformer in the lower cabinet that's wired to the strobe connector?
Has the strobe ever flashed on the Pinpoint strobe board?

Quoted from 2Fun:

Could anyonevtell me what this wire is for soldered to the capacitor on rhe solenoid driver board? I have never seen this before.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from FatPanda:

Ok. I'm officially stumped. I've been trying for the last hour to try to figure out where this piece goes. I neglected to take a picture of the apron assembly before I dismantled it because (famous last words) I thought it was simple enough to put back together. Can anyone provide pics of where this piece goes? I assume it has these nylon spacers involved somewhere.
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Quoted from jj44114:

All the S & T schematics are the same.

Quoted from Quench:

Those particular U6 ROM chips contain "system" code and are also used on other games, specifically Eight Ball Deluxe, Fireball II and Embryon.

Quoted from gdonovan:

Good luck, I ended up buying a complete set from CPR after looking for a year. Seems to be a commonly broken part.

Quoted from tomdrum:

upper PF lanes guides?

Quoted from Jkaping:

Hey Guys... when should my strobe light be on? I think I’m having some irregularities. Right now it occasionally works in attract mode. I think I had a full day where I didn’t see it at all, last night it was on again in attract mode after I played a few games. Does it ever come on during game play?

Quoted from tomdrum:

I'm doing a FG PF swap and need the orientation of the pop bumper lamps sockets. I lost my pics and need to know which side of the new lamp sockets are pointed. Is the socket rivet on the right or left side of each of the 3 pop bumpers? A pic or just the order would be great. Pic shows PBR sockets so you can see the rivet. [quoted image]

Quoted from WorthWhilePanda:

Hello Pinside and the Saviors of the Universe Club!
I've just purchased and brought home my first ever pin and it happens to be an FG! Overall it seems to be in pretty good shape visually, and quite good mechanically. However, the plastic on the small 2 inch flipper at the top of the playfield was cracked before I bought it. Otherwise the flipper is working just fine.
I've looked through this thread and found some suggestions on flippers for replacement however the ones I'm finding seem to have a "Screw hole" and this one clearly doesn't have that same hole. With this being my first pin ever I've never ordered or replaced any parts on a machine before and just wanted to make sure if I order a replacement plastic I don't need the shaft/shoe/etc as well.
Any help would be appreciated and if more information is needed from me I'm happy to offer it!
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Quoted from WorthWhilePanda:

Thanks again for helping with the hardware! I can't wait to share some pictures of the machine once I have the lights and flipper fixed!
I did notice another thing that was peculiar with this machine though. When I'm going through the "Self-Test" menu, and adjusting the "Scoring Threshold" all of them end with the same number (2,660). These numbers are adjusted by 10,000 each time you press the "Credit" button but I can't seem to clear that 2,000 points.
I had intended to only setup 2 scores for free play (500,000 and 1,000,000 as suggested in the manual) so I set the third score to "Zero" however, it seems this was actually set to 2,660 because I am getting a credit just from plunging the ball. I have since set this to 99,992,660, but if there's a way to clear this to 00 that would be awesome.
Let me know if there is more info or photos that I can provide to assist.

Quoted from mrgone:

star rollovers lighting up but not registering.
no idea why.
Thank you in advance for any help.

Quoted from mkdud:

Please help if you can. I need advice on how to repair wrecked screw holes and underside wood on my FG #8396 with a CPR gold 2013 playfield.
This PF changeover was pretty wonky and I spent some time correcting things on the PF before installing it. I don't know why, but I totally missed how poorly the "Wood Beast" DTA was installed. [quoted image]
How should I prep the damaged area? I was planning on using bondo glass, but is there something else or something better to use? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks, mk[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Well, I'm not sure if these are linear flippers assemblies or not. They have that plunger spring. So, are these the early style then??
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Quoted from FantasticPinball:I also need the bracket.

Quoted from digitaldocc:

Happy to report I just joined the FG club. I was wondering if anyone had advice for a wobbly backbox issue. It's separating on the back side. Debating to use construction adhesive or not.
Here is a video to show the issue.
Also is it normal for the knocker to fire at the start of each game? I'm just not familiar. Knocker demo

Quoted from digitaldocc:

I'm looking into my flasher issue and can't really make sense of how the flasher activates. From the connector picture left to right its a dark teal, orange/blue, orange, and then green.
Ontop of that the flasher unit has been worked on (not in a good way)[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from digitaldocc:

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Looks like I have A26 and A27

Quoted from digitaldocc:

When I measure the voltage from pin 1 and 8 I get 40v. Or pin 1 and 3 I get 140v.

Quoted from digitaldocc:

Could anyone take a picture of how that whole assembly is supposed to look?

Quoted from digitaldocc:

Out of curiosity could some drop bank switches or rebound switches in need of adjustment (for instance to close and making contact) cause the under the playfield protection 1amp 250v slo blo fuse pop?

Quoted from digitaldocc:

If not what are some other typical causes of that?

Quoted from Smack:

Can someone please tell me what the name or part num is for the metal spacer that holds up the clear plastic ball guide circled in this image?

Quoted from Barthalamu:

Desperately seeking no-hop flipper guides. I have tried to contact Cliffy a couple times with no response. Is anyone else producing these?
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Quoted from DanMarino:

Is there a trick to keeping the flipper bats locked down tight with the two screws? My right flipper keeps coming loose and getting floppy/out of adjustment. I've been afraid to crank down too hard and I haven't really gotten enough leverage with my hex/allen wrench anyways.

Quoted from DanMarino:

I put some blue painters tape to note a string of playfield lamps that isn’t working. Is the wire connecting all of these routed correctly? Does anything look wrong on this side of the playfield?
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Quoted from Pinballer73:

Thinking of replacing the playfields in my game. Whilst it's the only one available, what is the consensus on the CPR reproduction playfields? Art, colours & alignment. One of their better ones, or one that has known flaws?
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Quoted from arzoo:

Getting ready to populate my CPR pf. I've heard the clear is very brittle. Predrilling is an absolute must, good advice! Have to do the Yopsicles first.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from digitaldocc:

The vibration single drop glitch!!!
Yeah this is diving me nuts too. Was false dropping relentlessly. Adjusted the switch a million times but only stopped when I added a stronger spring. Now it's happening again and I'm wondering how to defeat this issue once and for all. Very irritating

Quoted from slochar:

Where on the shelf of the drop?

Quoted from arzoo:

So drill through the clear in reverse? How would the bit cut through?

Quoted from Quench:

If that connector wasn't retrofitted, this problem would never had occurred!
It's an extra point of failure for no good reason IMO.

Quoted from DanMarino:

My machine is a bit of a project and it looks like that metal cross brace in the base cabinet is missing. Is this brace critical? Since I can't find these on the Pinballlife or Marco websites

Quoted from BigAl56:

Ever walk up to a pinball and feel a shock when you touch the cabinet rails?

Quoted from gdonovan:

(note the one for Ming, always hated seeing the bulb)

Quoted from rack-em-up:

Flash Gordon Playfield Project
Somewhere around 5 years ago I bought a nice FG with a little planking and a little missing paint. FG hardtops had just been released so I bought one. The game was so much fun to play I could not see tearing it up to install the hardtop so it lay in the original packaging under my bed for about 4 years. I then started to worry that the hardtop adhesive might begin to deteriorate. To hedge my bets, I bought a playfield from a fellow Pinsider figuring it might be best to try sticking the hardtop to that playfield. At most (if the adhesive had gone bad) I'd be out the cost of the hardtop and the second playfield. So I stuck the playfield aside and started planning the hardtop install. I toyed with the idea of completely populating the playfield and ending up with something that could just be plugged into any FG.
Realizing that it wasn't very practical to do that, I went ahead anyway buying some parts, rebuilding flippers, pop bumpers, etc. and generally having a lot of fun and learning a little about pinball machines.
A couple months ago I worked up the nerve to stick the hardtop on the playfield. With my wife's help, all went well and there was nothing wrong with the hardtop adhesive. Attached are some pictures showing where I'm at with the project. Still need 3 more drop target assemblies and that may take some time. At 75 years old I'm in no hurry about anything. Finding some before I turn 80 would be nice though!
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Quoted from GraniteStatePin:

Anybody ever see this? It's a little metal bulb shield...factory???

Quoted from Pinballer73:

Wow, I initially cringed when I saw you start up that dremel and plunge it into the star rollover insert. Although it seems to have worked well, the process you show in the video. Would have been good to see you pop the star in place in the playfield and exercise it up and down to prove your work.

Quoted from ita47:

I have a Bobby Orr Power Play playfield from CPR

Quoted from arzoo:

I'm a bit stumped here on how to solve this problem; the CPR pf is pre-drilled for the wood rails and as you can see in the picture, the upper is not aligned with the edge of the pf - it hangs over. Any thoughts on how to fix this short of fabricating a new rail? Maybe I could fill the screw holes in the rail with wood filler and drill new holes?
Update: I see that Pinball Rails does repros for FG. I think that's my best option. Plus, they should look really nice!
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