(Topic ID: 65903)

Flash Gordon: Saviors of the Universe Club

By TheShameGovernor

10 years ago


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#873 4 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

I would love to update my Eight Ball to be 15 ball or something similar.

Bit off thread topic, but how about changing Eight Ball from 3 to 8 balls per game

ROM U2
$0400 BD -> B8
$04E0 03 -> 08

#878 4 years ago
Quoted from UNCgump:

What are good examples of games that have players managing multiball on upper and lower playfields?

How about some of the Williams system 7 games like Black Knight, Jungle Lord - etc.

3 months later
#954 4 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

ok so i think the ca3081 checks out fine. Im getting an output from it as the machine cycles thru the solenoid tests. Maybe the issue now is down the line with the 74l154 decoder

What issue are you trying to diagnose? Your posts on the previous page don't mention solenoid issues.

#964 4 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

Other question. I’m the backbox on the strobe mounting bracket one of the screws has a ground (green yellow ) and goes back to a ground in the back box. I don’t see anything from the strobe board to the metal bracket so what’s the point of that ?

There are very high voltages on that strobe light circuit, that green-yellow wire is an earth strap for safety incase something from the board touches that metal bracket.

Quoted from wolffcub:

Ok this time I’m talking about Flash Gordon lol. I’m trying to get my strobe working. When testing the voltage at the ac lines I’m getting a high reading. Should this not be in the 120 area ? Also on other machines what colour wire is connected to the blue wire ? Mine is black with white stripe. I cant see in the schematics what colour is for what voltage.

Based on the schematic and where the fuse and loopback wires are we can deduce the pin locations on the connector and it looks like your transformer is wired for 110VAC because that blue wire is in pin location 5. Pin location 6 is for 120VAC.

FlashGordonStrobeTransformer_plug1a.jpgFlashGordonStrobeTransformer_plug1a.jpg
FlashGordonStrobeTransformer_plug2a.jpgFlashGordonStrobeTransformer_plug2a.jpg

9 months later
#1221 3 years ago
Quoted from mkdud:

Is there a reason that someone would tap the control lamp bus to power a pop bumper bulb?

The top pop bumper lamp is part of the feature controlled lamp set, not G.I.

FlashGordon_LDB (resized).pngFlashGordon_LDB (resized).png

#1232 3 years ago
Quoted from tomdrum:

I took over 50 detailed pics of the top and bottom of the PF to aid in my re-assembly. Can share any you need.

If you're willing and able, others will find it very handy if you upload your pictures to the Flash Gordon machine gallery:

https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/flash-gordon/gallery

3 weeks later
#1254 3 years ago
Quoted from mkdud:

Can anybody please tell me where this brown / white wire was supposed to go on my playfield? It was in the wires that go to the lower right flipper assembly and wrapped in black electrical tape. It was connected to nothing. I traced it to the plug that goes to MPU J2 Pin2, which is "ST1 playfield switch strobe" Please help if you can.

According to the playfield switch schematic, MPU J2 pin 2 is an orange wire.

There's a brown-white wire that's listed as going to MPU J2 pin 14. My guess that wire should go to the tilt switch that's on the right side of the right flipper mech. There should also be a loose white-red wire for the tilt switch too.

See here:
https://images.pinside.com/3/03/e7/303e78e6fa20d35936857db3de75b50eb9d4affc.jpg

2 weeks later
#1269 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

That's strange isn't it? I noticed that with EBD.

That's because the aux lamp driver board refreshes the lamps later in the DC phase when the lamp voltage is higher and more current is flowing so there's a better chance those SCRs latch on.

3 weeks later
#1325 3 years ago
Quoted from mkdud:

Does anyone know where I can get reproduction backbox cards? I have one (the center one) that is ripped, and mine are pretty beat.

Pinsider Inkochnito has a web site with printable backbox, apron, and tech charts.
Look for Flash Gordon in the backbox card link here:
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Backbox_cards.htm

Other cards:
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/

1 month later
#1380 3 years ago
Quoted from mkdud:

I have a question regarding the U9 prom (32x8) on the vocalizer. Is this prom the same on ANY vocalizer, or does it have different code for Xenon and Flash Gordon?

The U9 PROM is listed as the same BALLY part number in both the Flash Gordon and Xenon manuals: "E-720-44"
The PROM is just used as an address decoder for the Speech ROMs, there's no game specific content in it.
Note, the PROM is soldered on the board - if it was different per game it would have been socketed.
So the U9 PROM should be the same for both games.

Below is a picture of the U9 PROM I took from a Xenon Vocalizer board. I thought I had a picture of the Flash Gordon Vocalizer but can't find it.

Vocalizer_PROM.jpgVocalizer_PROM.jpg

#1383 3 years ago
Quoted from mkdud:

I want to archive this code. I have a GQ4 programmer. What is the device listing for this prom? Is it 8331? 8047? What brand is MMI?

The GQ4 programmer doesn't support bipolar PROMs.
You'd need to make a converter to read it out like a 2716 EPROM.
That PROM is manufactured by MMI and the part number is: "6331". I bought about 20 of them NOS a few years ago only to later discover none of my four different EPROM programmers support this particular PROM. There's some other compatible drop in PROMs like 82S123 and 74S288 which some programmers do still support. These ancient chips are getting hard to find. Don't waste your money buying them "new" from China - they are previously programmed chips and are totally useless.

Anyway I've already dumped this PROM. Here's the contents:
0000: FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
0010: FE FE FD FD FB FB F7 F7 EF EF DF DF BF BF 7F FF

The CRC32# of the file is: 7F18F0E4

Quoted from mkdud:

It is labeled the same as the one in Qunech's picture, and is the same as the vocalizer u9 prom I am trying to get going in my FG.

It should be a simple matter of programming new Flash Gordon speech EPROMs and the sound EPROM on the Sounds Plus board. What problem are you having that you're looking at U9?

#1403 3 years ago
Quoted from mkdud:

What should I be checking next? Thanks much for the help!

What are you getting out of the board? No sound, corrupt sound, something else?

Please open a tech help request in the early solid state tech sub-forum so we don't clog the club thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/forum/tech-early-80s-solid-state

1 month later
#1438 3 years ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

How do we get colors from that?

See the below example:

Centaur_MPU_Wiring.jpgCentaur_MPU_Wiring.jpg

#1441 3 years ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

Quench - do you happen to have all S&T info, mine appeared to have a vocalizer and I am rewiring it back to S&T so I need the plugs to the board itself.

Is there more than the 15 pin plug -

Many people consider the Vocalizer to have clearer speech than the Squawk & Talk. If you have the Vocalizer setup, I'd probably leave it.
In any case, below is the Squawk & Talk connector info in my Flash Gordon manual.
Note: the Squawk and Talk connector has an extra G.I wire added at pin 7 - it's used to create a -5V power supply for the S&T speech chip. The other wires and placement are the same as the Vocalizer 15 pin connector.

The last picture is included because it has a small strobe connector table not included in the wiring schematic in the IPDB manual.
IMG_0069a.jpgIMG_0069a.jpg

IMG_0072a.jpgIMG_0072a.jpg

IMG_0068a.jpgIMG_0068a.jpg

#1448 3 years ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

So, if I read what you are saying - there is only the one plug sent to the S&T and it is the 15 pin connector, no other plugs connected?

Is your backbox harness missing the 15 pin connector for the original sound board? Post a picture of the wiring so we understand what you're dealing with.

Xenon also uses the Sounds Plus and Vocalizer setup. This picture from the Xenon club thread shows the 15 pin connector already has the thick single orange G.I bus lamp wire at pin 7. So it's likely your harness already has that G.I wire there:

https://images.pinside.com/b/e4/55/be455540c55ed18ef3e7c29f5c8fdaad7ac181e4.jpg

Quoted from wamonkey:

Thanks - if you have a picture of the plugs and the S&T board mounted that would be great to see just to make sure I am doing it right.

Sorry, my game's in storage but here's a picture from this clubs image gallery:

https://images.pinside.com/0/8c/9d/08c9d131ac26626b3d7680f912786ad8c509c1e3.jpeg

Fantastic work!
You'll want to lower the flippers to align them as Bally designed otherwise the drop targets on each side will be harder to get good shots at. At rest, the Bally flipper bat tips should meet with the playfield alignment divots. Using the thinner Williams flipper bats you'll need to compensate a little.

FlashGordonFlippers1.jpgFlashGordonFlippers1.jpg
IMG_0013a.jpgIMG_0013a.jpg

#1453 3 years ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

Here is the sound board...looks right to the diagrams I got...

Some of the connectors aren't in the right positions.
Check the connector diagrams again and write down the wire colors at each pin so you can correct it.

Otherwise the board looks like it's jumpered correctly.

#1456 3 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

I wanted to check the difference in sound but you can't find repro S&T boards right?

Two repros available from Europe:

https://coinop.mally.eu/produkt.php?parent=3&kategorie=7064&content=BALLY%20Repros
https://mypinballs.com/electronics/store.jsp

2 weeks later
#1469 3 years ago
Quoted from zahner:

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

The early schematic calls it a "flash module" not "strobe module". Without the 115VAC connections, the "4 strobe lights" and 43 volt connections I suspect it originally had a circuit that just flashed four 12V incandescent lights connected in series and switched across the 43 volt circuit - somewhat like the four 12V flashing lights in Fireball II doodle bug area.

Do you have the extra 115VAC transformer in the lower cabinet that's wired to the strobe connector?
Has the strobe ever flashed on the Pinpoint strobe board?

#1476 3 years ago
Quoted from zahner:

Yes, it has the 115VAC transformer and it does fire the strobe.

I presume the Pinpoint strobe board is a replica of the original? Is there a schematic for it?
Any chance you can post some clear pictures of the board front and back and also the wires at the connector plus the 115VAC transformer?

#1478 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I have a Pinpoint board in my FG and it works fine.

You running any Alltek boards by any chance?

#1483 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

All I have, sorry.

Cheers, I don't think it's a 100% replica. The original schematic shows seven resistors, I only see four resistors on the Pinpoint diagram.

@zahner, do you have a factory Bally MPU board to try?

#1485 3 years ago
Quoted from zahner:

Pretty sure I do.

With Flash Gordon ROMs?
Otherwise try changing the solenoid driver board first for a Bally board if you have a spare.

The strobe board generates high voltages to ignite the xenon tube - this is being picked up in the game as noise and upsetting something in the Alltek setup.

1 week later
#1505 3 years ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

The hole with the circle is the switch in question. I'm trying to figure out what color the wires are that go to it.

The three star rollover button switches in the upper shooter lane are all wired in parallel with the same wire colors:
White-Red wire to the lug with the non-banded side of the diode.
Brown-Yellow wire to the standalone lug.

FlashGordon_SwitchMatrix.gifFlashGordon_SwitchMatrix.gif

#1508 3 years ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

For some reason I didn't notice the Wire Color Code box listed on the drawing.

That's probably because it's not on the original playfield schematic - I put the wire color chart in that diagram so it makes sense

2 months later
#1609 3 years ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

My FG chips got mixed up with ones from a Supersonic. Are any of the removable IC's common with other -35 games?

The socketed chips at U7, U8, U9, U10 and U11 are interchangeable with other -35 boards.
U7 is a 6810 RAM chip
U8 is a 5101 RAM chip
U9 is a 6800 CPU chip
U10 is a 6821 PIA chip
U11 is a 6821 PIA chip
Yes, U10 and U11 are the same chip.

The socket ROM chips at U1/U2 and U6 however are game specific. If you post pictures of them we can tell you which ones are Supersonic and which are Flash Gordon ROMs.

#1611 3 years ago

In order of pictures:

1. P5101 = U8
2. E-720-30-U6 = SuperSonic U6
3. E-741-08-U2 = SuperSonic U2
4. E-741-10-U1 = SuperSonic U1
5. S6800P = U9
6. 620-29 = U10 and U11
7. 620-29 = U10 and U11
8. MCM6810P = U7
9. --- Top Left: E-720-20-U6 = Mata Hari U6
9. --- Top Right: E-725-21-U2 = Mata Hari U2
9. --- Middle Left: = U7
9. --- Middle Right: E720-52 U6 = Flash Gordon U6
9. --- Bottom: P5101L-3 = U8
10. --- Top: F6820PC = U10 and U11
10. --- Middle: MC6821P = U10 and U11
10. --- Bottom: S6800P = U9
11. --- Top: MC6821P = U10 and U11
11. --- Middle: MC6820P = U10 and U11
11. --- Bottom: F6800P = U9
12. --- Top: 620-29 = U10 and U11
12. --- Bottom: MC6800L = U9
13. 620-30 = U7
14. 5101E-3 = U8
15. MCM6810S = U7
16. E720-52 U6 = Flash Gordon U6
17. What's printed on the label? not enough detail, U2 or U6 for some game.
18. S6821P = U10 and U11
19. S6821P = U10 and U11

Put labels on each chip with their U number so you know where they go.

#1613 3 years ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

The Flash Gordon U6, is that the one that has program on it? Do Have all the IC's for the Flash Gordon?

There's two I marked as Flash Gordon U6. They do have program code in them but technically they aren't Flash Gordon specific. Those particular U6 ROM chips contain "system" code and are also used on other games, specifically Eight Ball Deluxe, Fireball II and Embryon.

The ROM chip at U2 is specific to Flash Gordon and is what's known as the "personality" code.
I can't see it in your picture list though it most likely is the purple one in picture 17. Need to know what's printed on the white sticker to be certain.

You have plenty of the other chips needed to populate the MPU board.

BTW, if you're not aware, chips are directional. If you plug them in backwards, they will in most cases die.
Follow the half notch on the short end of the chips with the silk screened socket notch on the MPU board.

#1621 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Yes,yes,yes, They call the small cluster of programs in U6 as an utility ROM.

Ah, thanks for the clarification vec-tor on Bally calling U6 a "utility" ROM.

Quoted from Enochsmoken:

13. Has 24 pins and I was able to read it 620-30 7741-C
17. Has 24 pins. From what I can read it is TMS2532 and under that is 81C. I cannot make out the remaining charecters. It might be 14 after 81C.

13. 620-30 is Ballys part number of a Motorola 6810 RAM chip that goes in U7 (post #1611 above updated).
17. TMS2532 is the part number of an EPROM chip which can be programmed with code/data. That's a general EPROM part number that doesn't refer to anything programmed in it. The white label stuck to the chip should have details written/printed on it specifying what/version of info it's programmed with. If nothings written on the label, you would have to use an EPROM programmer to read its contents to determine what's in it.
Suffice to say though, of all the chip pictures you posted it's the only one likely to be a U2 Flash Gordon ROM chip.

3 months later
#1736 2 years ago
Quoted from Boise_D:

Any idea where I can buy or find the right camera strobe?

Also, have a look on ebay for xenon tubes. Try and find one that's a similar dimension to the original.

2 months later
2 months later
#1824 2 years ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

What does the Aux lamp driver control, is it the strobe?

SCR Q25 on the aux lamp driver board drives the xenon strobe lamp.

The Auxiliary Lamp Driver board controls the lamps listed on the right side of it's schematics (below):
ALDB.pngALDB.png

1 month later
#1875 2 years ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

What is the voltage on the playfield switches, and is there a common ground?

The playfield switches are wired in a matrix and are computer read by strobing some of the matrix signals. They don't work in a simple common ground/voltage scenario.

Explain the problem you're trying to diagnose.

#1878 2 years ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

Doesn't the test want to see all open switches?

Yes. You need to start switch test with a "clean slate" i.e. with all switches open. This means making sure all drop targets are raised and all balls are removed from the machine.

Note, the switch test does not report multiple closed switches, only the lowest number switch found closed. Switch numbers are listed in the "Switch Identification" section of the manual.

So if you're testing the switches start from switch 40 and work your way back to switch 1. When you drop a target to test it, if the game reports the correct switch number leave that target down and move to the next drop target. Check that switches report the correct number, if one/some don't there's an issue within the switch matrix.

9 months later
#2034 1 year ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

I have 4.2 volts on pin 2 of U9 and the procedure says there should be 2.8V.

Unless it's a typo, pin 2 of U9 should be around 4.8V and if you're getting 4.2V that would still be in range for a TTL circuit.

Start an early tech thread and post nice clear pictures of the board. [EDIT] early tech thread was already started.

2 months later
#2073 1 year ago
Quoted from koji:

The MOC3011 seems to be obsolete at electronics stores and not in stock.

They're still available in the M version MOC3011M:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/onsemi/MOC3011M/284881
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/512-MOC3011M

I can't quite tell what difference the M version is other than it might be a lead-free version. The isolation voltage specs are different but that's likely because the test methodologies/standards are different from old days to now.

Quoted from koji:

I found mine measures as ~130 ohm. Someone had replaced this part.. so just wondering if this sounds like it should still be ok?

Ultimately it depends on what the ratio of primary windings is to the secondary windings. The "420:10 " on the schematic kinda tells me for (every?) 10 windings on the primary, there is 420 windings on the secondary.

My guesstimate is the xenon tube operates around 5kV (roughly 115V input times 42 = 4.83kV output)

Replace the two electrolytic capacitors if they haven't been already.

#2077 1 year ago
Quoted from Joydivision:

I seem to remember these as a possible trigger coil sub?

There's not really much else to choose from now, pre-covid there were a number of different units on ebay.

1 week later
#2109 1 year ago
Quoted from koji:

but once the coil gets warm, even with the EOS gapped conservatively for safety

Are you saying only the right lower flipper coil gets warm, and the left flipper coil stays cool?

Have you set the EOS switch stack on the lower right flipper to break EOS before it makes the upper flipper switch?

#2111 1 year ago
Quoted from koji:

Yes, I think the EOS is pretty good for opening, and closing the top switch for the upper flipper. As a test tho, I figure I will maybe just bend the top out to see how the power is without the upper flipper going at all.. just to isolate that.

Yes, worth testing.
How much gap are you setting on the EOS switch? Remember to set the gap by pushing in the metal plunger, not by rotating the crank/flipper bat which doesn't take slack/wear into account.

Have you got capacitors on the flipper button switch and EOS switch?

Quoted from koji:

I imagine it is jumpered for 115v line.. but if it is 120v jumpered.. maybe that could help?

Well it will make up for the solenoid voltage loss you're thinking about.
Do you have another Bally with the same transformer you can temporarily swap in?

To be honest I think the issues are related to the switch contacts heating up and becoming a little more resistive with the high current surges (yes I know you changed them). This is why I asked of you have capacitors on them which will reduce the arcing.

#2115 1 year ago
Quoted from koji:

"I have read that 2.2 uF capacitors on the EOS switches and .1 uF capacitors on the cabinet flipper switches will help."

The caps here must be minimum 250V rating. Actually the schematics call for 500V caps (for Germany). Certainly don't use 100V caps.

#2117 1 year ago
Quoted from koji:

Thanks for the guidance and ear!.. or eye in this case.

Good luck with it. BTW which EOS switches do you have? Care to post a picture?
Also are your cabinet switches easy or hard to press? More tension on the receiver blade means it will bounce less and stay in contact longer when you hit them fast/hard.

2 months later
#2162 1 year ago
Quoted from tomdrum:

I just noticed this wire isn't connected in my backbox... Looks like the same wire to the strobe rear cover.

It's screwed to the side of the backbox:

https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=874&picno=64120&zoom=1
https://o.pinside.com/c/38/e3/c38e386230e3e4ecbe61f47dc8c4eedd86c49b2c.jpeg

2 weeks later
#2197 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Just to clarify, the f4 fuse only blows after holding the rhs flipper up for 4-5 seconds.

That indicates your EOS switch isn't opening.

#2200 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

So if the low voltage coil was not working on one of the coils

What do you mean by "low voltage coil". They both essentially operate at the same voltage but different current levels.
On the lower right flipper mech, the secondary switch activates the upper flipper. Put something between that switch like some card to stop the switch closing denying the upper flipper from operating. That will help isolate which flipper has the problem.

#2207 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Now I’m curious what’s wrong with the coil? How do you diagnose that?

Measure the resistance between the middle lug and each outer lug. You should get the following readings:

Flipper_Coil_resistances.pngFlipper_Coil_resistances.png

#2209 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Had to make a trip to Jaycar to top up on fuses anyway.

Did you install a fast blow fuse back at F4 on the rectifier board? It's not supposed to be slow blow.

1 month later
#2301 10 months ago
Quoted from BioBa:

Finally a new Flash Gordon Strobe light and board is available.

Quoted from bluebomber:

It would be great if you didn't need to use the extra transformer for the flash as well

Indeed. My game is missing the strobe transformer and a friend has two project Flash Gordon games also both missing the strobe transformers.

Maybe a Rev 3.0 board can be made to bypass the "115VAC to 12VDC step-down buck converter module" with a generic 12VDC input.

2 months later
#2398 8 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

I’m trying to get the stand-up target at the end of the Wood Beast in-line drop targets to award an extra ball. I nailed that sucker twice last night and I think I was only awarded points. Is this a dip switch setting on the MPU?

Also check the software settings (#16 in particular) at the end of audits through the self test button on the coin door:

FlashGordon_SoftSet16.pngFlashGordon_SoftSet16.png

#2400 8 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

Now just got to figure out why the shoot again light doesn’t come on. Guess it’s a SCR that’s blown.

Try diagnosing it first. See if the methodology here is helpful:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/control-light-contact-and-pin-cleaning-question#post-5011852

3 months later
#2514 5 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

Well the latest problem is that the right flippers stopped working.

The orange wire at the right flipper coil goes to the solenoid driver board. The flipper enable relay on the solenoid driver board switches it to the right cabinet flipper button on the red wire.
Somewhere along that trail you've got an open circuit.

FlashGordon_Right-Flipper.pngFlashGordon_Right-Flipper.png

#2518 5 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

Just for my learning, what is the A3 mean? Is that a code for the solenoid driver board?

Yes, A3 refers to the solenoid driver board.
A1 is the displays
A2 is the rectifier board
A4 is the MPU board
A5 is the main lamp driver board
A8 is the sound board

Here's a list of nearly all the 'A' Bally board numbers:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-board-designations#post-7210927

BTW, check the pin headers on the solenoid driver board and the relay connections mentioned in the above schematics in case there's cracked solder joints.

#2519 5 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

Also, what is that square box with the number 10 in it on that cabinet flipper button switch diagram?

Those two digit numbers in the boxes refer to the wire colors - here's some old examples I did for other issues:

Centaur_MPU_Wiring.pngCentaur_MPU_Wiring.png
CoinDoor_WireColors256.pngCoinDoor_WireColors256.png

#2533 5 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

I guess my next step is to pull the orange wire from the wire harness loom and trace it back to the right flipper.

Hmm, it's a direct link from the solenoid driver board to the coil. Maybe temporarily solder/clip a wire to the coil where the orange wire is and push the other end of the temp wire into the solenoid driver board J1 pin 9 connector housing and see if the flipper wakes up.

#2537 4 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

Does this mean the flipper relay gizmo on the A3 solenoid driver board is bad?

Don't replace the flipper relay yet, it's way too early to make that call without proper diagnosis.

Put the machine in game mode. Don't touch the flipper buttons.

All three wire lugs on the right flipper coil measure 43 volts right?

The orange wire at the coil goes to that retrofitted connector next to it (BTW what's the point of this connector?). Do you have 43 volts on both sides of this connector at the orange wire?
Then it goes to J1 pin 9 at the solenoid driver board. Do you measure 43 volts there?
It then comes out at A3J2 pin 1 (red wire). Slide the black cover down on that A3J2 connector to expose where the red wire is attached. Do you measure 43 volts there?
The red wire then goes to the right flipper button in the cabinet. Do you measure 43 volts there?

You are basically following the trail of that signal to find out where the loss in power is.

BTW were you working on the game with something to do with the flippers just before the right flipper stopped working?

#2558 4 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

All flippers are working. Man, I messed with that connector at the beginning of the repair, but didn’t catch the orange wire hanging on by a few strands!

If that connector wasn't retrofitted, this problem would never had occurred!
It's an extra point of failure for no good reason IMO.

#2568 4 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

The display is currently missing the million digit. Here is a photo I grabbed from pinside for reference.

Better if you post a picture of your actual board.
Are you getting the glow under the millions digit like you see with the other digits?
In the mean time, try swapping the transistors in the millions digit circuit with those at other digits to see if the fault follows them. Say Q20 with Q2 and Q21 with Q11.

#2571 4 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

Does this mean the problem is a connector or originating from the mpu?

So the millions digit worked on the suspect display when you put it in the player 3 position?
This means the problem is specifically at the display 2 connector. If the problem was at the MPU connector, it would affect all displays because that signal gets daisy chained from display to display.

2 months later
#2667 73 days ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

Hardtops are only offered by Outside Edge and they do not list FG as one of their titles? Who else is making HardTops? Can somebody post a link?

@BigAl56, this was the initial release years ago but it was announced as a one off run:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flash-gordon-saviors-of-the-universe-club/page/13#post-4707738

I don't know the details but think Skypilot might have commissioned it with Outside Edge doing the actual production.
It's a matter of finding someone willing to pass on one they bought but never installed which happens from time to time.

2 months later
#2777 4 days ago
Quoted from hodgesm0:

if anyone needs part references , or advice on how to replace it let me know.

Just post your details here so it's always available for reference.

#2788 3 days ago
Quoted from hodgesm0:

Hope this helps someone else with their game

Excellent write-up! I'm sure it will help some in future particularly those missing the 115V transformer which I have come across.

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