Can you accumulate bonus beyond what's displayed on the playfield (the circle that counts up to 10)?

No, but if you get playfield multiplier and collect it it's 25x

That’s for having both 5x bonus lit and both playfield scoring multipliers active. I did it once in my life. It was awesome.

It actually counts up to 19 if you watch it.

This is why I ask. I could swear I'd gotten payout above what I thought I saw indicated on the playfield. I ask because obviously if you can't crank it higher, you should be aiming to cash it in (with multipliers as much as possible).

So max reward.may be 475,000 points. That's badass. And since you'd usually be ripping it through the right spinner at 5x, it's really over a half million for the one shot.

.

CPR has FG playfields back in stock. Email they sent me said 23, but now 22

Only 1 left!
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-playfields/flashgordon/

Damn! If anyone swapping in a CPR playfield, i may be interested in buying your old upper playfield. Lower on mine is decent but I'd love to upgrade the upper. PM me if interested, please!

OOS.

My upper is actually in pretty good shape, although there is a worn path at the top of the launch lane. I'm definitely looking to sell the old pf when I'm done with the swap, but not sure it makes sense to separate the two.

I suppose if the price is right i might be tempted to buy the pair of them from you, in that case. If you get a chance, pm me a couple pics if you're interested. Thanks!

Will do. But this will be my first pf swap, so it could be some time before I'm done lol!

Well, ok.....if someone were to offer me $24,999 for my Flash Gordon I'd probably sell it....

ebay.com link: itm

Anytime I see a pin for sale and the picture shows it alone at the bottom of a curved staircase, I just assume it's a scam lol! Usually the floor is black and white tile. But I'm pretty sure this ebay sale meets the "scam" criteria!

I followed that rebuild, and it is as magnificent as a Flash Gordon can get. He did an amazing job. Someone with a bunch of disposable income is going to end up with a really cool pinball.

So last night I got an email from my work saying they were giving us a 1k bonus for having to work during corvis, so I bought the 2nd to last one.
Good to have projects!

That will be removed from eBay for having contact info in the listing.

I am back to bother you with another tech question! I have flippers rebuilt, saucer kickout working, no leaf switches phantom registering, etc!

The last thing (for now) is a socket that doesn't work, mini bonus 6. I replaced the socket since I figured that was the issue (has been for a few others). New socket doesn't work. New bulb doesn't work.

This means there's a wiring issue with power, correct? How can I trace and diagnose? I have a new alltek board so I assume it's not the board, but I could be wrong - how would you diagnose and fix? I saw this is J1-9 and Q27 in the manual, but that's as far as I have gotten so far.

Thank you so much for any pointers, newer to SS ownership and really excited to get this game to 100%.

This post really helped me with a similar issue. Note SCR and pin numbers will be different for you. I also had a new Alltek board but one of the SCRs was bad.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flash-gordon-lamps-flashing-in-unison-when-they-should-be-solid#post-5286660

Great, thanks, I figured it wouldn't be an SCR because of the board, appreciate it!

I did not put my quarters in as much, I had only a few.

I truly love it’s brutality now and I have a friend who has it in his collection at pinballand where I play.

I can be seen there a lot. Playing that game.

I want to own it but I got access. No more quarters baby!

Quick side note, the actor who plays the flash is fun at convention appearances. I have never seen someone enjoy their place in the world quite like that.

He was friendly to everyone. I think I took a random picture of him just talking to fans. I’ll find it.

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The beginning of the end of cabinet work.

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I had a similar issue on my FG, turned out to be a factory wiring error. The light would work in lamp test mode but never in game play. The wire was off by one position in it connector at the lamp board.

And it's a wrap!

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This is my first CPR pf and overall I'm really impressed. Unfortunately there's a noticeable black streak on the upper pf. Hopefully they can supply a replacement.

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Can you show us?
Mine should be here Monday, want to know what to look for before I let the thing cure a for a few months.

It's more noticeable in person than in the pic. Not a huge deal, but given how much these cost, it should be perfect.

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Oh I agree. Thanks.

Agree 110%, but if you think that's bad you should see the CPR Fathom playfields and how they star rollovers line up there.........

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At least it's the far side of them & you're less likely to see them...hopefully?

Looks like more than just the rollovers - every cutout is slightly shifted. But it's really only the stars that are noticeable, and maybe the kick-outs.

Would be worth reaching out to CPR to see if you can exchange just the top PF. It's a digital print so I would expect these types of flaws to be non-existent, as opposed to the manual silkscreened process.

Is this a Bronze or Silver pf? If so, then it would be considered less than perfect. If it is a Gold, then yes, I would be upset. As far as I know, they didn't do digital prints of Fathom.

Fun! Amusements in Mesquite Texas has that staircase and floor, and lots of machines. When I got there I thought, “hey this sure looks familiar “. They’re legit.

I imagine its on all of them

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You ever hear back from them?

I didn't notice on my CPR. I'll have to check when I get home now....

The ol "Digital ink smear. "

Oh, is that because of print head movement?

Yes, CPR provided a few options. But bottom line, they only made 30 FG playfields in this batch and all sold out, so there's no replacement anytime soon.

I probably wouldn't worry about it too much. I didn't look yesterday, but I would bet that mine has the smear too. If it does, then it is what it is. Mine is already swapped, and I'm not sure it would be noticeable unless it was pointed out. But I can understand the frustration and disappointment.

Wow, impressive how quickly you got the pf swap done! I've never done one before, any tips (other than take lots of pics)?

Oh ha I have no idea. It was kind of a joke because you wouldn't think this kind of thing would happen with the new printing technique.

I am looking for one of the metal sides that are on the ramp of the ball return. Does anyone know a part number for those, or better yet maybe you have an extra one laying around?

Thank you,
Brad

Well here's the genuine article...not perfect either

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I did mine over the holiday season, and it took me about a month off/on, with a lot of time waiting for parts that I hadn't ordered beforehand. I had already gone through all of the mechs and everything was playing 100% when I first acquired the game. It was pretty much a straight transfer.

I labeled all of the lamp wiring (ie, 1K bonus, 2K bonus, etc) and installed all new lamp sockets in the new pf, so that when it was time to solder, I knew exactly which lamp the wire went to. I also installed new 5V braid for the lamps, and used the original playfield as a template. I followed it EXACTLY so that I knew that if things didn't work, that I messed up somewhere. Lo and behold, every lamp worked as intended. I had missed soldering some GI wiring, but that was easily sussed out. Use this modified wall adapter to test your GI lights
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-re-populating-playfields#post-4565582

When you unscrew all of the mechs from the playfield, and clip all of your lamp wires, slide a large piece of cardboard under everything to keep it in it's relative position. When you lift the harness/mechs away, you should be left with just the lamp sockets and braids. Once you see the entire mass come off, it doesn't feel so intimidating anymore. Go to your local Ace Hardware and get new screws, washers, etc so that you don't have to sort out and transfer the original hardware. That way if you lose some of the original hardware, you're not looking for that one screw, or one nut.

Off/on, waiting for some parts, it took about a month, with a couple hours during the weekday after work, and spending a few hours at a time on the weekends. Having all of the wiring labeled took a ton of anxiety out of it. The topside was pretty straight forward. Make sure to use washers under the pointy metal posts, and predrill EVERY hole! Get a playfield kit from Ron Kruzman and ask him to include a dremel bit for the star rollovers. A lot of clearcoat gets built up in between the star points, and you'll need to clear that out with the dremel in order for your star inserts to move freely.

Doing a second swap on Viking, it took just a couple of weekends since I had a method that was "safe" and straight forward.

Make sure the game is working 100% before doing your swap, so that way you know if you introduce a new problem, and it would be easier to troubleshoot if you knew it was working prior.

I used this picture wire for my 5V braid on Viking and it works perfectly. Can be had pretty cheap at your local hardware store.

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Looking forward to doing mine after some cure time. I hope by then someone makes light board so i can drop those sockets off at the dump.

That was CPR's excuse on it when they were questioned about it here on Pinside. They were following the example they had to work off of......

That makes me wonder if they are just using a high res scan of an old playfield that they cleaned up in Photoshop, rather than illustrating everything overtop of a scanned playfield example in Illustrator. That may explain why they have inconsistent color matching issues too. If they are in PS color correcting a whole playfield instead of just making each shape the exact color it should be in AI. Either way, this Fathom rollover/insert border issue would have been an easy bleed adjustment for them to make.