(Topic ID: 65903)

Flash Gordon: Saviors of the Universe Club

By TheShameGovernor

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 2,788 posts
  • 269 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Quench
  • Topic is favorited by 147 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_6256 (resized).jpg
IMG_6257 (resized).jpg
IMG_6253 (resized).jpg
IMG_6254 (resized).jpg
c928de729783bf855db2c4fad7afdbee637c54ed (resized).jpg
cc89192186c76bbcfae62d319969e24fd9478da8 (resized).jpg
N-68X (resized).jpg
Big Daddy Flash (resized).png
IMG_1200 (resized).jpeg
IMG_6257 (resized).jpeg
IMG_6256 (resized).jpeg
Thumbnail (resized).png
IMG_20240228_124335477 (resized).jpg
66277047031__BE249FBD-B8DB-45D1-8EC8-5FE147B2324B (resized).jpeg
IMG_6646 (resized).jpeg
IMG_6619 (resized).jpeg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider enochsmoken.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#483 7 years ago

Does anyone have an photo or drawing of the inline drop target assemble? I think I might be missing something.

Thanks,

Brad

#485 7 years ago

Thanks,

I see now that I am missing those brackets which the springs are connected to. I took mine apart 2 and 1/2 years ago. How do they attach to the back of the assemble? Yours looks great.

#487 7 years ago

Great thanks.

Now I have no idea where those brackets are.

1 month later
#491 6 years ago

Rebuilding AS-2518-35

I just finished repairing and rebuilding my AS-2518-35, which I started over two years ago. I don’t recall which IC chips I needed. And which one has the game program.

Thanks for the help,

Brad

2 years later
#752 4 years ago

I have a CPR Flash Gordon playfield I bought in 2013. I never got around to installing it, and now getting rid of all pinball stuff. Does anyone know what this could sell for?

Thanks,

Brad

8 months later
#1066 4 years ago

HELP WITH FLIPPERS.

I need to find out what switches I need for FG flippers. I dismantled the PF and not sure if the switches that were on the flippers were the correct ones.

Thanks,

Brad

380CA53C-4ABC-4638-B177-6E4D42D81C62_1_105_c (resized).jpeg380CA53C-4ABC-4638-B177-6E4D42D81C62_1_105_c (resized).jpeg5A7190B9-6FCF-46A5-A4F6-99713D5C8DE4_1_105_c (resized).jpeg5A7190B9-6FCF-46A5-A4F6-99713D5C8DE4_1_105_c (resized).jpegDE9943C3-6C17-4017-A615-76077368FD64_1_105_c (resized).jpegDE9943C3-6C17-4017-A615-76077368FD64_1_105_c (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#1091 4 years ago

I need all new switches for my Flash Gordon flippers. When I look at the switches offered from websites none of them look like the original ones that I took off. They are a lot smaller. Will, someone please help me out on this?

Thanks, Brad

#1093 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

If you are talking about your EOS switches, and the contacts are worn, then you will likely need to rebuild them anyways. I would suggest getting a rebuild kit from Pinball Life. You'll need 1 full kit + 1 right side kit:
https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-flipper-rebuild-kit-051980-031988.html
Here are just the EOS switches:
https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-end-of-stroke-switch-normally-closed.html
If you are referring to the cabinet flipper switches, then you'll need:
WLL-SW10A-48
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-leaf-switch-single-contact.html
and
SW-1010A-13 (IIRC)
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-leaf-switch-double-contact.html

Thanks for the quick reply. I bought rebuild kits from pinball resources per Vid's rebuild post. Here are the switches that came with kits. It doesn't seem like the right ones.

D845195B-C02E-4CD3-B7C8-34EB7A543C87_1_105_c (resized).jpegD845195B-C02E-4CD3-B7C8-34EB7A543C87_1_105_c (resized).jpeg
#1096 4 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Keep in mind that FG has a stacked switch design for the right lower flipper assembly that does 2 things:
1) Normal EOS Normal Close Switch functionality
2) Normal Open Switch that closes when the stacked EOS opens to activate the coil for the upper right mini flipper.
Based upon your pic the 4 switches on the left is what you need. Numbering them from left to right 1 -> 5 and assuming #5 is an old EOS switch for comparison:
Left Flipper EOS NC : #1
Right Lower EOS NC stacked with NO for upper activation: #2 & #4
Upper Right Mini EOS: #3

Here are images of the flippers before I took them apart.

LEFT FLIPPER (resized).jpgLEFT FLIPPER (resized).jpgRIGHT FLIPPER (resized).jpgRIGHT FLIPPER (resized).jpgUPPER FLIPPER (resized).jpgUPPER FLIPPER (resized).jpg
#1104 4 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Your flippers have definitely been rebuilt at least once using some non standard parts, and judging by the looks could use that full rebuild kit. Seeing some of those screws they may have even buggered up the baseplate and you may have to replace those as well. The switches you received will work even if they aren't 100% identical in height as long as the flipper crank action will open/close the switch correctly. Best way to tell is to study & maybe even video the original action & engagement and then be able to duplicate it once you rebuild all the mechanical parts. The other thing is to keep track of which wire is going to which leaf of the switch to make sure everything works correctly electrically.

I did replace all the worn parts with new ones. What advice do you have someone who took them apart before doing all the things you mentioned?

#1106 4 years ago
Quoted from zahner:

You’ll like playing the game a lot more if you do a complete flipper rebuild and the reliability will also increase dramatically. Flash Gordon is an awesome pinball and all the better with solid flippers. I now always replace the baseplates and just start from scratch with all new parts on all of the older SS games. Play it the way you have it now. Order all the parts and spend an evening rebuilding. Ultimately not even that hard and in some ways, easier if you’re rebuilding from the ground up.

I agree with you. My problem is I don't have the old switches, and I can't remember how to stack the new ones.

#1108 4 years ago
Quoted from zahner:

You can download a Bally parts manual on planetary pinball which will have breakdowns of all the parts with diagrams and part numbers. If you can’t find it let me know and I’ll post the link when I get home.

Thanks. I went to PP, but I can't look at the part manuals. Is there something I am missing?

#1111 4 years ago
Quoted from zahner:

It's not intuitive - try the link below. It's a PDF and is awkward.
Only click on the MOBILE VERSION.
It's meant to be printed and folded in half into a booklet. When just viewing the PDF, the pages seem all out of wack. That aside, it is pretty easy to find the flipper mechanism diagrams.
Go to page 72 for the diagram. It also has the original part numbers.
Go to: http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/BLY_Parts_1980-1/index.html#/36/zoomed
Have fun!

Great! Thank you very much.

10 months later
#1503 3 years ago

Hello,

I need some help with a roll over switch. The hole with the circle is the switch in question. I'm trying to figure out what color the wires are that go to it.

Thanks,
Brad.

0B46B94B-8E2F-41CF-A956-1CB587E06663_1_105_c (resized).jpeg0B46B94B-8E2F-41CF-A956-1CB587E06663_1_105_c (resized).jpeg
#1506 3 years ago

Thanks Quench!

For some reason I didn't notice the Wire Color Code box listed on the drawing. Boy do I feel stupid.

#1509 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

That's probably because it's not on the original playfield schematic - I put the wire color chart in that diagram so it makes sense

Ahhhhh. Well done thank you very much.

2 weeks later
#1536 3 years ago

Help!

I lost the two black wooden rails tht connect the upper and lower playfields together. I took my maching apart 7 years ago, and lost them. Does anyone know the dimensions of these rails? I'm need to make new ones.

Thanks,
Brad

#1538 3 years ago
Quoted from bluebomber:

Which one/level are you looking for?[quoted image]

The one that starts on the playfield side and transistions to bottom side.

#1540 3 years ago
Quoted from bluebomber:

This should get you pretty close, but you may need to finesse it to fit your machine. I measured it so you have two solid boards that you can start with, and then I have the measurements for the areas that are cut away to fit the playfields. In the screen capture example, the bottom two boards are the starting boards with cutouts lined up, and the top two boards are with the finished cuts.
Left Side
Starting Board - 33.625 x 1.688 x 0.5 inches
Upper Cutaway - 6.625 x 0.5 x 0.5 inches
Lower Cutaway - 27.125 x 0.50 x 0.50 inches
Right Side
Starting Board - 38.00 x 1.688 x 0.5 inches
Upper Cutaway - 9.00 x 0.5 x 0.5 inches
Lower Cutaway - 24.625 in x 0.50 x 0.50 inches
[quoted image]

Fantastic!! Thank you very much.

Brad

2 months later
#1606 3 years ago

8 years ago, I decied to clean the corrosion off my MPU board. I removed all teh socketed IC chips, and never put them back. Now I cannot remember which IC chips go into which sockets. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Brad

#1608 3 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

if you go on IPDB, the manual with schematics will show you P/N for each of these chips.

My FG chips got mixed up with ones from a Supersonic. Are any of the removable IC's common with other -35 games?

#1610 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

If you post pictures of them we can tell you which ones are Supersonic and which are Flash Gordon ROMs.

I hope this works.

IMG00242 (resized).JPGIMG00242 (resized).JPGIMG00243 (resized).JPGIMG00243 (resized).JPGIMG00244 (resized).JPGIMG00244 (resized).JPGIMG00245 (resized).JPGIMG00245 (resized).JPGIMG00246 (resized).JPGIMG00246 (resized).JPGIMG00247 (resized).JPGIMG00247 (resized).JPGIMG00248 (resized).JPGIMG00248 (resized).JPGIMG00249 (resized).JPGIMG00249 (resized).JPGIMG00250 (resized).JPGIMG00250 (resized).JPGIMG00251 (resized).JPGIMG00251 (resized).JPGIMG00252 (resized).JPGIMG00252 (resized).JPGIMG00253 (resized).JPGIMG00253 (resized).JPGIMG00254 (resized).JPGIMG00254 (resized).JPGIMG00255 (resized).JPGIMG00255 (resized).JPGIMG00256 (resized).JPGIMG00256 (resized).JPGIMG00257 (resized).JPGIMG00257 (resized).JPGIMG00258 (resized).JPGIMG00258 (resized).JPGIMG00259 (resized).JPGIMG00259 (resized).JPGIMG00260 (resized).JPGIMG00260 (resized).JPG
#1612 3 years ago

Thanks Quench. Thank you very much. I was so worried I would not be able to figure this out. The Flash Gordon U6, is that the one that has program on it? Do Have all the IC's for the Flash Gordon?

Thanks in advance,
Brad

#1615 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

13. not enough detail, how many pins is it? What numbers can you see?
17. What's printed on the label? not enough detail, U2 or U6 for some game.

13. Has 24 pins and I was able to read it 620-30 7741-C
17. Has 24 pins. From what I can read it is TMS2532 and under that is 81C. I cannot make out the remaining charecters. It might be 14 after 81C.

Thanks again,
Brad

#1624 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

17. TMS2532 is the part number of an EPROM chip which can be programmed with code/data. That's a general EPROM part number that doesn't refer to anything programmed in it. The white label stuck to the chip should have details written/printed on it specifying what/version of info it's programmed with. If nothings written on the label, you would have to use an EPROM programmer to read its contents to determine what's in it. Suffice to say though, of all the chip pictures you posted it's the only one likely to be a U2 Flash Gordon ROM chip.

There was nothing on the label. I have access to a programmer. Thanks for your help, I was afraid I was screwed.

Brad

2 months later
#1695 2 years ago

I am looking for one of the metal sides that are on the ramp of the ball return. Does anyone know a part number for those, or better yet maybe you have an extra one laying around?

Thank you,
Brad

1 week later
#1720 2 years ago

I'm looking for this part in the ball return area. Does anyone know a part number for this part, or better yet maybe you have an extra one laying around?

Thanks,
Brad

BALL RETURN copy (resized).jpgBALL RETURN copy (resized).jpg
5 months later
#1798 2 years ago

I am putting together my game that was disassembled several years ago. I have most of it back together but the coin mechanism is still in pieces. My goal is to bypass the coin mech so I can get the game up and playing. Then I will tackle the coin mech. Can any explain how to bypass it?

Thank you,
Brad

#1800 2 years ago

Nevermind I got it figured out.

#1811 2 years ago

Need help with power supply connections.
Putting my game back together and I can't find the wire connectors that went to J3 and J4 of the power supply. Where do they come from? I feel like I'm loosing my mind.
Brad

F168BD99-1654-4E06-9022-BF84ADA73A51_1_201_a (resized).jpegF168BD99-1654-4E06-9022-BF84ADA73A51_1_201_a (resized).jpeg
#1813 2 years ago
Quoted from bluebomber:

There should be a 6x4 (24 pin) connector in the backbox at the lower right side that they connect to. You should see it right away, if not I can take a pic. Just a heads up since you have a new power board there, you may want to replace the connectors that plug into as well.

I should be able to replace just pins in the connector right? I should't need to replace the connector block?
Thanks, Brad

#1815 2 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

The pins in those connectors can be replaced with new crimp-on 0.093" pins. However, you may not need to replace those connector pins if you don't have any that got burnt up. I have an FG and an EBD with that style rectifier board and haven't needed to replace any of those connectors/pins.

Thanks for the reply.
I found an empty 6X4 connector in the back box, does the wire harness the that connects to it split into two connectors that then go the J3, 4 on the power supply board? What does EBD stand for?

Thanks,
Brad

#1817 2 years ago

You the Man Bluebomber.

#1820 2 years ago

Would someone be able to tell me what the length of the plastic standoffs on the bottom of the shooter gauge are. I can't find mine, so I going to fab some.
Thanks,
Brad

#1823 2 years ago

AUX LAMP DRIVER QUESTION

The trace from J3 pin 17 to the anode of Q26 burnt. I found some bad solder joints on all 3 headers, reflowed them all. Looking for some advice. What does the Aux lamp driver control, is it the strobe?

Thanks Brad

#1825 2 years ago

Okay, I see that Q26 drives the 2X saucer arrow. Probably drawing too much current from there.

#1827 2 years ago

FLIPPER TROUBLE.

My flippers will not flip during the solenoid test, all the other solenoids work. I have 43VDC on the coil. How can I Test them.

Thanks,
Brad

#1829 2 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Hold flipper buttons in flipper in solenoid test only pulses the relay

Your telling me to hold the flipper buttons during the solenoid test to see it they work?

#1831 2 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Yep there's no cpu control of the flippers only manual

Okay. It Worked just like you said. Thanks my friend.

#1835 2 years ago

NEED HELP. FAILED SELFTEST FOR SWITCHES

I am slowing bringing my FG back to life after 15 years. I ran the self test for stuck contact switches and it failed on sw 01 which is the the two roll over buttons on the upper left side. neither are stuck together is there something else I need to check?

Thanks,
Brad

#1840 2 years ago
Quoted from djblouw:

EDIT: Note that SW01 is for the 2 left and right rollover buttons. Check all of them first to make sure the switches are not stuck.
If you have in fact verified that both the switches are open (contact not touching), then the next thing to try is to clip one end of the capacitor off the connections. The capacitor is the round flat piece. Don't confuse it with the diode, which is barrel shaped. Make sure the machine is turned off when doing this.
So, clip one leg of the capacitor off the switch stack. Cut it close to the switch, so you can solder it back later if needed. If both switches have a capacitor (only one should, but it's been through 40 years of abuse), cut a leg off both. Then go back to switch test.
Capacitors of this age and era are notorious for failing. You can play the game with the capacitor leg cut off, it just won't read really quick rollovers.

Thanks for responding. I did all the items you mentioned none of the contact were touching. 3 out of the four had newer caps, I still cut them. Still flashing 01 when I select the switch test. Should I buy new contacts and rebuild them? I used to live in Grand Rapids go my Associates degree from GRCC, great school, never should have moved away.
Brad

#1842 2 years ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Okay, let's try moving up the path.
Disconnect the plug at J2 from the MPU (board in the top left of the head). When you do this it should not show 01 as being closed. It may show something else (from the coin door), but shouldn't show 01. If it does, the issue is on your mpu.
You can take a diode, with alligator clips on each end, and jump pin 1 to pin 8 on the header pins on the mpu. Banded side to pin 8. This should show as 01.
Yep, GR is pretty nice. I could do without the snow, but I guess it's a small price to pay.

I don't think it could be the mpu, I just installed a brand new Alltek one. I definitely do not miss the GR snow.

#1844 2 years ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Just humor me, to make sure it's not the mpu.
If it's not the mpu, and all 4 switches are open, and a leg is cut off the capacitor on each switch, please double & triple check the connection points on the switches themselves. It's pretty tight around those, and easy to mash some of the contacts together. You should be able to bend them apart. Use a DMM set to continuity to help you.
You should need to buy new blades for the switches unless they're completely mangled.
Also, since three of the capacitors were new, please double check to make sure they were hooked up properly. Compare against the wiring on the old switch, or the other rollovers in the shooter lane.

Okay I removed the connector from J2 MPU and ran the switch test and the result was a flashing 0 in the in the match window.

#1845 2 years ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Just humor me, to make sure it's not the mpu.
If it's not the mpu, and all 4 switches are open, and a leg is cut off the capacitor on each switch, please double & triple check the connection points on the switches themselves. It's pretty tight around those, and easy to mash some of the contacts together. You should be able to bend them apart. Use a DMM set to continuity to help you.
You should need to buy new blades for the switches unless they're completely mangled.
Also, since three of the capacitors were new, please double check to make sure they were hooked up properly. Compare against the wiring on the old switch, or the other rollovers in the shooter lane.

Is this circuit pin 1 to pin 8 on A4-J2? if so I check continuity between those 2 points and it was open.

#1846 2 years ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

Is this circuit pin 1 to pin 8 on A4-J2? if so I check continuity between those 2 points and it was open.

I see that it would be open regardless because of the diode being off. Boy do I feel stupid.

#1847 2 years ago

I am getting no where. I have clipped all the caps, ohmmed out all the 01 switches, all are open in there normal position, checked all the diodes, they are working correctly. I'm dead in the water. Help.
Brad

#1848 2 years ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

I am getting no where. I have clipped all the caps, ohmmed out all the 01 switches, all are open in there normal position, checked all the diodes, they are working correctly. I'm dead in the water. Help.
Brad

Check that, I ran the switch test and it passed 01 but stopped on 02. I clipped all the caps, ohmmed out all the 02 switches, they are all reading 1.8M to 2.2M ohms in normal position. Is that considered open? checked all the diodes, they are working correctly.

#1850 2 years ago
Quoted from djblouw:

When the switch is open you should get infinite ohms. But usually just set the dmm to continuity, with buzz tone. Check the switch open, and closed. Should only buzz when closed.
I don’t have the manual in front of me now. What is the 02 switches? Sorry for the slow response today, I was on a pin pickup trip.

No problem, thanks for getting back. the 02 switches are the 3 inline at the top right side of playfield.

#1852 2 years ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Okay. So like before, inspect every tab to make sure Nothing is touching.
Then use your meter to check to make sure it’s open and then close it by hand and make sure it buzzes out.

Okay. I really appreciate you helping along the way. Thanks again.

#1853 2 years ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Okay. So like before, inspect every tab to make sure Nothing is touching.
Then use your meter to check to make sure it’s open and then close it by hand and make sure it buzzes out.

I ran through all the 02 switches, they are all open in their normal state and when I close the contacts I get about .4 ohms. This just doesn't add up. Got any ideas? Are you a Spartan or a Wolverine?

1 month later
#1874 2 years ago

What is the voltage on the playfield switches, and is there a common ground?

#1876 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

The playfield switches are wired in a matrix and are computer read by strobing some of the matrix signals. They don't work in a simple common ground/voltage scenario.
Explain the problem you're trying to diagnose.

When I run the switch test I get an error on 03 the single drop target. I don't see anything wrong with the switch, except when the switch test starts the drop target is down and closing the contacts. Doesn't the test want to see all open switches?

#1882 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Yes. You need to start switch test with a "clean slate" i.e. with all switches open. This means making sure all drop targets are raised and all balls are removed from the machine.
Note, the switch test does not report multiple closed switches, only the lowest number switch found closed. Switch numbers are listed in the "Switch Identification" section of the manual.
So if you're testing the switches start from switch 40 and work your way back to switch 1. When you drop a target to test it, if the game reports the correct switch number leave that target down and move to the next drop target. Check that switches report the correct number, if one/some don't there's an issue within the switch matrix.

Got it. Thanks for the help.

1 month later
#1893 2 years ago
Quoted from A_Bord:

Been looking for a good playfield scan for Flash Gordon for awhile to help out with a project I'm working on. Does anyone have one? Multiple scans needing stitching is fine. Thanks!

I am just curious, how would print it and what material would you print it on?

8 months later
#2033 1 year ago

Looking for some help troubleshooting MPU LED continuously on, no flashing. I'm using the Bally F.O. 560-1 repair procedure. I have 4.2 volts on pin 2 of U9 and the procedure says there should be 2.8V. Is the the 4.2V too high? I've tried a couple of different U9's, still getting 4.2V.

Thanks,
Brad

1 year later
#2650 82 days ago

Does anyone know the part name for this black bar inside the cabinet, and are there any for sale?

Screenshot 2023-12-27 at 8.13.46 PM (resized).pngScreenshot 2023-12-27 at 8.13.46 PM (resized).png
1 week later
#2669 73 days ago

Does anyone know about how much 18 AWG bus wire is needed to rewire all the lamps in the Flash Gordon? I need to order some.

2 weeks later
#2713 56 days ago

I’m getting ready to populate a new CPR playfield, and I noticed that I could feel the edges of the inserts. I looked around and noticed others having this and it needs to be clear coated again. Has anyone had to do this with their CPR playfield? I’m looking for some advice.

#2731 51 days ago

How do I tell which lamps are general illumination on the playfield?

#2733 51 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

In general, the controlled lamps with have one bare wire running from socket to socket, and one thinner wire that goes into the harness for the ground at the scr on the lamp driver board.
The GI lamps are usually just a parallel run of bare wire, with occasional areas of an insulated wire used.
You could also pop out either the GI fuse or the controlled lamps fuse to see the difference visually.

I have my playfield all disassembled and I replacing the non GI lamps with Yoppsicles. I took a lot of photos I'll look through those.

#2738 51 days ago
Quoted from arzoo:

So funny how the launch roll-overs had the "WHEN LIT" completely worn off and painted over. Also wonder which were the correct original colors, did my original pf yellow and change color so drastically?

When you populated your CPR did pre-drill the dimples before installing the screws?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 20.00
Playfield - Plastics
UpKick Pinball
Plastics
$ 7.00
Playfield - Decals
Pinball Haus
Decals
$ 99.00
Boards
RoyGBev Pinball
Boards
$ 179.00
Cabinet - Other
Pinball Pimp
Other
$ 25.00
Cabinet Parts
Volcano Pinball
Cabinet parts
$ 30.00
Lighting - Led
Pinballrom
Led
$ 10.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
Protection
From: £ 135.00
Electronics
Retro Electro Designs
Electronics
$ 5.95
Playfield - Protection
The Pinball Scientist
Protection
$ 22.50
Magazines/books
Pinball Magazine
Magazines/books
$ 100.00
Gameroom - Decorations
The Flipper Room
Decorations
$ 10.00
$ 45.00
5,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Houston, TX
$ 10.00
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
$ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Boston, MA
$ 649.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 199.95
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Berkeley Springs, WV
From: $ 649.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
From: $ 2.99
$ 18.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
Electronics
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
Decorations
$ 10.00
From: £ 135.00
Electronics
Retro Electro Designs
Electronics
$ 22.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
From: $ 170.00
Displays
PinballSolutions.eu
Displays
From: £ 135.00
Electronics
Retro Electro Designs
Electronics

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider enochsmoken.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flash-gordon-saviors-of-the-universe-club?tu=enochsmoken and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.