(Topic ID: 65903)

Flash Gordon: Saviors of the Universe Club

By TheShameGovernor

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 27 minutes ago by Jmxdc
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider djblouw.
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#448 7 years ago

Woohoo! I managed to locate a new pf for my barn find Flash Gordon.

Now I just need a cpr set of plastics, if anyone has a set they won't be using?

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4 months later
#478 7 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Was hoping for some feedback on what a good fit is for FG GI LEDs would be before the Comet sale ends today...
Anyone have any suggestions based on their experiences?

1 led retro. Warm white for all, except color match red, blue, green.

You'll need the boards from seigecraft (also having a sale) to make them not flicker

#480 7 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Thanks. Same for the GI, or is it okay to go with something brighter there, Warm White?

Something brighter will be okay. Probably stick with warm white or sunlight. I like the 2led comfort from comet. But to each his own.

Oh, and everything needs to be frosted-both GI and controlled

1 year later
#603 5 years ago
Quoted from Lysurgeon:

Tried to search for the stand up target on the upper playfield with no luck. Part number is ASE-2911-21, does anyone have a link to purchase one, or know a suitable replacement?

You can just use a standard switch like this, and re-use your current mounting bracket. You can even transfer the capacitor, if you don't have a new one, but I'd suggest getting a new one:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SW-1A-170-6

6 months later
#660 5 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Starting to order some parts for my FG. I will be rebuilding the three flippers with kits from Pinballlife. I don't find any drop target rebuild kits around, but mine obviously need work. Does anyone know which coil sleeves are used for the drop target coils? They look to be a larger diameter than "usual". I have not taken one apart yet to measure. Prefer to order from Pinballlife if possible since I have a sizable cart started.

I believe the correct coil for the large drop target reset (n-prefix) is a 5/8" diameter by 2" length. But you can buy the 2 3/8" length, and trim it down.

2 months later
#719 5 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

With the machine sitting in attract mode, if you trigger the switch for the saucer, the solenoid will engage

This is normal. It is that way to make sure the ball is kicked back to the through at the end of the game (if a tilt occurred).

1 month later
#813 4 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

I've checked continuity between braid and plate as well as between brackets and ground, and I have continuity all around. But I just checked test point voltages and I have no voltage at any of them. I can't imagine that the transformer would die just by pulling it out and painting it with high heat paint and reinstalling.

Double check the fuse in the black holder next to connector before the transformer. Sometimes the cap doesn’t alway like to make contact on that too.

If that’s good, start checking the wires on the transformer, to make sure nothing came off or is shorted.

7 months later
#1053 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Bump for this question. Anyone have any recommendations for the best LEDs for these particular inserts?

If you have the altek board (with the power wire hooked up) you won’t need the non ghosting leds.

In my FG, I used retro frosted from comet, in warm white. It’s not overly bright, but brighter than incandescents.

2 months later
#1127 4 years ago

You'll want 2 of the drop target reset coil sleeves: Pinball Resource part number WLL-03-7068
Also, I believe the knocker uses the flange coil sleeve

4 months later
#1248 3 years ago

#5 go across drop target banks.

#7 is for the single drop. It’s the adjustable plate at the bottom of the mech

#6 is the brackets for the apron, connected to the playfield

#1249 3 years ago

I’ve got all my tear down pics on photobucket (I know, they suck. I wish I could get the pics off that site).

If you’d like to look through them send me a pm

3 months later
#1433 3 years ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

thank you, that means I'm not crazy. And I think it's reasonable to guess that the number of cycles is a helper to indicate what the issue with mine is, I just can't find any info in the manual / pinwiki / google about the startup sounds. But for now, at least I'm not crazy. Yet.

Just some info: My game makes different length/sequence of the start-up sound based on what mpu I have in it (OE, Altek, Weebly). It never impacted the game play, so I never looked into it any more.

4 months later
#1619 3 years ago
Quoted from tomdrum:

I'm starting to repopulate my FG playfield after getting my new one clearcoated. Somehow I lost my memory card (it's been a year since tear down) that had 60+ pictures stored on it. There are dozens of pictures posted here I can use. Does anyone have a picture of the power braid routing on the bottom of the PF before assemblies are added? I usually replace the braid and the lamp sockets with new when doing a swap.

Hopefully this helps.
43F10491-3BF8-4B58-9C6C-EB89128559F8 (resized).jpeg43F10491-3BF8-4B58-9C6C-EB89128559F8 (resized).jpeg

8 months later
#1836 2 years ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

NEED HELP. FAILED SELFTEST FOR SWITCHES
I am slowing bringing my FG back to life after 15 years. I ran the self test for stuck contact switches and it failed on sw 01 which is the the two roll over buttons on the upper left side. neither are stuck together is there something else I need to check?
Thanks,
Brad

EDIT: Note that SW01 is for the 2 left and right rollover buttons. Check all of them first to make sure the switches are not stuck.

If you have in fact verified that both the switches are open (contact not touching), then the next thing to try is to clip one end of the capacitor off the connections. The capacitor is the round flat piece. Don't confuse it with the diode, which is barrel shaped. Make sure the machine is turned off when doing this.

So, clip one leg of the capacitor off the switch stack. Cut it close to the switch, so you can solder it back later if needed. If both switches have a capacitor (only one should, but it's been through 40 years of abuse), cut a leg off both. Then go back to switch test.

Capacitors of this age and era are notorious for failing. You can play the game with the capacitor leg cut off, it just won't read really quick rollovers.

#1841 2 years ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

Thanks for responding. I did all the items you mentioned none of the contact were touching. 3 out of the four had newer caps, I still cut them. Still flashing 01 when I select the switch test. Should I buy new contacts and rebuild them? I used to live in Grand Rapids go my Associates degree from GRCC, great school, never should have moved away.
Brad

Okay, let's try moving up the path.

Disconnect the plug at J2 from the MPU (board in the top left of the head). When you do this it should not show 01 as being closed. It may show something else (from the coin door), but shouldn't show 01. If it does, the issue is on your mpu.

You can take a diode, with alligator clips on each end, and jump pin 1 to pin 8 on the header pins on the mpu. Banded side to pin 8. This should show as 01.

Yep, GR is pretty nice. I could do without the snow, but I guess it's a small price to pay.

#1843 2 years ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

I don't think it could be the mpu, I just installed a brand new Alltek one. I definitely do not miss the GR snow.

Just humor me, to make sure it's not the mpu.

If it's not the mpu, and all 4 switches are open, and a leg is cut off the capacitor on each switch, please double & triple check the connection points on the switches themselves. It's pretty tight around those, and easy to mash some of the contacts together. You should be able to bend them apart. Use a DMM set to continuity to help you.

You should need to buy new blades for the switches unless they're completely mangled.

Also, since three of the capacitors were new, please double check to make sure they were hooked up properly. Compare against the wiring on the old switch, or the other rollovers in the shooter lane.

#1849 2 years ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

Check that, I ran the switch test and it passed 01 but stopped on 02. I clipped all the caps, ohmmed out all the 02 switches, they are all reading 1.8M to 2.2M ohms in normal position. Is that considered open? checked all the diodes, they are working correctly.

When the switch is open you should get infinite ohms. But usually just set the dmm to continuity, with buzz tone. Check the switch open, and closed. Should only buzz when closed.

I don’t have the manual in front of me now. What is the 02 switches? Sorry for the slow response today, I was on a pin pickup trip.

#1851 2 years ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

No problem, thanks for getting back. the 02 switches are the 3 inline at the top right side of playfield.

Okay. So like before, inspect every tab to make sure Nothing is touching.

Then use your meter to check to make sure it’s open and then close it by hand and make sure it buzzes out.

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