(Topic ID: 65903)

Flash Gordon: Saviors of the Universe Club


By TheShameGovernor

6 years ago



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  • 1,130 posts
  • 182 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 19 days ago by AUKraut
  • Topic is favorited by 103 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider fytr.
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#459 3 years ago

Hi all, I'm looking to join the Flash Gordon club, but there doesn't seem to be any available in my local area.

If anyone has one they might be ready to part with I am open to a straight sale or also have a decent Black Knight or a players Class of 1812 I'd be willing to trade.

Thx.

1 month later
#470 3 years ago
Quoted from Jappie:

... the Bell Games playfield is different from the Bally one in a couple of places. Can you spot them?

The arrow inserts are round with arrows printed on them instead of being arrow shaped and none of the inserts are completely translucent.

Do I win???

I'll PM you my address so you can ship me my "prize" FG that's just sitting in your friends garage...

#472 3 years ago
Quoted from bballfan:

The inlane guides and pop bumper bodies are different.

Don't know how I missed that!

The plastic posts aren't faceted like the Bally ones either.

1 month later
#476 3 years ago
Quoted from LongJohns:

Gentlemen, looking at installing some LED's on a Flash Gordon I am restoring, just wondering if anyone has a list?
Thanks

I am also doing this now!

FG has very lightly colored translucent inserts so I'm leaning toward using a single LED clear retro bulb for those, partially based on this comment from another LED thread:

Quoted from dothedoo:

I like the retro clear warm white in early EM and SS inserts. I think they look closest to incandescents with the brightness about equal to a 44.
I don't like frosted because they look like a glowing orb under translucent inserts. The clears, having the thin LED, can almost pull off the look of an incandescent filament.

For GI not sure either sunlight or warm white, possibly 2 smd?

I'm a traditionalist so colored GI is out, looking for a brighter version of incandescent basically.

#477 3 years ago

Was hoping for some feedback on what a good fit is for FG GI LEDs would be before the Comet sale ends today...

Anyone have any suggestions based on their experiences?

#479 3 years ago
Quoted from djblouw:

1 led retro. Warm white for all, except color match red, blue, green.
You'll need the boards from seigecraft (also having a sale) to make them not flicker

Thanks. Same for the GI, or is it okay to go with something brighter there, Warm White?

#481 3 years ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Something brighter will be okay. Probably stick with warm white or sunlight. I like the 2led comfort from comet. But to each his own.
Oh, and everything needs to be frosted-both GI and controlled

Okay, thanks for the help - order placed!

I went with clear for the more translucent inserts (Orange, Green, Blue), I've liked that combination better on other games.
I also went with Sunlight for the GI bulbs, as I don't have much experience with those. If they don't light the plastics with a warm enough color temp. I'll swap them out for Warm Whites, which I can source locally. And I used 1 SMD warm white frosted for the rollover switches, based on a recommendation in another thread.

That's the thing I hate about LEDs, you have to bet on the ones that will look good on your machine, or order way too many and spend way to much $.

Thanks again!

1 year later
#615 1 year ago
Quoted from radium:

Does anyone repair the original Bally strobe boards? Mine never has worked and had the world's largest wasp nest on it when I bought it. Would rather repair the original than get a reproduction board if possible.

That’s an interesting “back story” for your game. Kind of makes restoring that board worth it just so you can tell the tale.

Got any pics?

7 months later
#694 11 months ago

I'm putting a project PF back together for a game I traded for, so I don't have much documentation on what the PF looked like before it was stripped to have an overlay installed.

Was wondering if anyone can let me know where the brass "plastic holder" type screws are supposed to go vs. the silver ones, or are they interchangeable? Also, are the screws (2 shown in the centre below) without threads near the heads for the rails?

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#696 11 months ago
Quoted from epeabs:

I just reassembled my top side after a hard top installation. The brass studs are used where there is a clear plastic below the silk-screened Plastics. Behind the three Bank drop Targets on the upper Playfield and on the right side of the upper Playfield behind the two-star rollovers. The other two I believe are under the try the wood Beast plastic. You should have some gray plastic Half Inch spacers that go on top of the clear plastic piece.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That hardtop looks amazing!

Thanks a bunch.

#699 11 months ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Couple more pictures. And I think your middle screws are for rails.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Much appreciated!

1 week later
#729 11 months ago

Hey guys I’m finishing up my restore project FG that I traded for and I just realized that I’m missing the entire ball kickout coil mechanism.

I don’t have any of it, no mounting bracket, no coil, and no metal kick arm to push the ball out of the trough and into the shooter lane.

Does anyone know if these parts are available anywhere?

#735 11 months ago
Quoted from rack-em-up:

There is a used assembly for a SILVERBALL MANIA on ebay right now. It looks to be the same as the AS-2694-3 assembly shown in the Bally 1980-1 parts catalog. Looks like it should work in a Flash Gordon.

Thanks guys!

Fortunately I was able to find mine yesterday after an extensive search. That's the problem when you start a project like this and don't finish it for a couple of years, the parts can go for a walk.

#737 11 months ago
Quoted from tktlwyr:

I started restoring my STTNG and life got in the way. Eight years later, I was done. Found all the parts.

...I stripped my IJ PF about 3.5 years ago to have it clear-coated and it's next on the list after FG.

2 weeks later
#753 10 months ago

Can someone please post a pic showing how the spring is connected to the single drop down target assembly?

Mine is missing and I can't seem to figure it out.

#755 10 months ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Hopefully this picture will help
[quoted image]

Thanks a bunch. It's strange though with that mount point it doesn't seem like the spring would be able to apply any pressure on the target. I'll try it and see.

1 week later
#799 10 months ago

Does anybody know if the targets on this era of Bally games ever used backing foam?

Finishing up my FG restore and none of my stand-up targets have foam behind them. Wondering if I should add it or if it it's considered "as intended" without it?

#810 10 months ago

Can somebody please post a pic of how their right lower flipper switches are wired?

My game never had this connected and was missing the second switch that triggers the upper right flipper when it's activated so I don't have a reference pic.

I assume that the switch that triggers the upper right flipper switch should be closed by the eos switch on the lower right flipper when it opens, correct? But how do the switches mount to the flipper assembly? And which wires are which?

#815 10 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

No Bally/Midway pinball's had backing foam in any standup targets.
Only when Williams bought Bally/midway, did the games have the backing foam.

Perfect - thanks.

#823 10 months ago
Quoted from BRW84:

Hope this helps![quoted image]

It *might*. I'll need to review my setup with that pin in hand and go from there. Away for Easter right now.

Thanks!

#843 10 months ago
Quoted from Spraynard:

Still looking for solutions to this saucer up kicker problem if anyone can help. I’ve tried bending/adjusting the kicker arm to no avail. I’ve double checked the coils are correct. I removed the coil spacer thing to introduce some more “slop”. Ball still pops up into glass. 90% of time it bounces straight back to saucer too...boring.

Strange that it wouldn't be more directional. Maybe try adding a few washers between the saucer mech and the underside of the PF to lower it a bit.?

#844 10 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Strange that it wouldn't be more directional. Maybe try adding a few washers between the saucer mech and the underside of the PF to lower it a bit.?

And post a few pics of how it looks mounted, possible it's mounted "backwards? vs how it was orientated originally?

8 months later
#1114 33 days ago
Quoted from zahner:

Speaking of the strobe.... I have the new [now about one or two years old] aftermarket version and I have replaced all of my other boards, except sound, with Alltek. When I plug in the strobe, it strobes fine and dandy while the game works, but eventually, things start to go a bit nuts and the game gets all funky. Stuff like the sound not finishing or starting phrases, the game resetting, locking up or not starting a new game. Completely random stuff. It seems very counterintutuve that plugging in the strobe would do this, but I have just given up and unplugged the strobe - and when I do this, the game works perfectly without it. The folks at Alter and the fellow that made the aftermarket strobe [can't remember the company name] are at a loss. Any ideas?

Does the issue happen at exactly the same event/time, or sort of randomly?
Maybe a grounding issue? Are the strobe board and the strobe assembly robustly grounded to the game's ground braid, as well as the rest of the boards?

#1118 29 days ago
Quoted from bluebomber:

I just designed and printed some replacement score cards today. The Art Deco corners from the backglass were pretty irregular, so these are based on the ones from the promotional flyer instead. White paper seemed really bright, but I found some off white paper that gives it more of a vintage feel. I have another style in mind that I may try out if I have the time.[quoted image]

Classic look! Care to share?

#1120 29 days ago
Quoted from bluebomber:

Yes, sorry. I still needed to spell check everything before uploading. There is a black border around the cards that is meant to be trimmed off when cutting out.
Edit: Now that I've uploaded, it looks like they are being compressed by Pinside. You may be able to get better quality images here: https://imgur.com/a/5DBxTp7.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks!

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