Flash Gordon
Bally, 1981
Flash Gordon
Bell Games, 1981You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider gdonovan.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Newest member of the club and doing a full refurbishment; anyone have a good upper playfield for sale or the top left corner plastic? Need both. Looking at touching up and clearing upper playfield but perhaps someone has a decent one left over from a playfield swap, drop me a note.
Lower playfield only needs minor work, cabinet needs repaint and I have to change out a mess of connectors.
Gary
20200224_181216 (resized).jpg20200220_184144 (resized).jpgQuoted from vec-tor:Top playfield:
Missing aluminum brass coated one-way lamp cover, by Mings head.
Expand on this please, I might be missing a piece
Quoted from ss-pinball:Fingers crossed, I'll be joining the club very soon.
The machine is currently running an original board set.
It currently boots and plays most of the time.
Going to send out the boards immediately, as I'll need to clean and go over the machine and put together an order.
The board guy is going to add Vid's jumpers.
What is the situation with NVRAM and this title?
(I know Meteor has some ROM issues when coupled with NVRAM).
What is the preferred method to get rid of batteries for Flash Gordon?
Cut off the battery, pull the 5101 and install NVRAM. Just that easy, did another this weekend past.
The boards are fairly reliable, crappy old sockets and AMI brand chips are typically the problem children.
Edit: Well you can cut them off and people do all the time, I prefer to desolder myself.
Quoted from tomdrum:This is the 1st received of the digitally produced FG PF's. It looks great. This was a rescreen of of my OE PF. I'm having weatherbymag do the clear coat. I shipped mine plus a couple others to help them correct dimpling. I want to give a huge thanks to Mike Purcell for making this happen. He went far and above to make my PF nice and help me out. I installed red rollover targets rather then the OE orange in the upper PF, I liked them better than than the orange since there is so much red in the artwork.
[quoted image]
I'm waiting for CPR to come out with another batch of FG playfields, think I'm going to pick one up. My lower is very nice but the upper is trashed.
Quoted from ita47:I hope it is just the lighting on the CPR pics. I do think Power87's looks good, the colors look much more accurate and I hope that is how these will look in person. I realize there was some variation from run to run on the originals. I think I will wait until some that have already ordered the CPR playfields receive them and can chime in. If it is the lighting in the pics then CPR should consider retaking them.
I have asked CPR for clarification on this pointing out that for the most part my factory playfield and the prior CPR FG runs match whereas the one currently featured on the website the Hawkman by the slings look dressed in lightish pink rather than a golden brown.
I'm hoping its just the lighting.
Quoted from ita47:Agreed the brown on the Hawkman appears to be off. The orange on the website looks like a rosy pink also definitely not orange like my original playfield.
I may simply wait till someone else buys a new one to see the final result. If they run out, so be it I'll send my upper PF out for repair, the lower is mint.
Quoted from mkdud:How does your Squawk and Talk sound overall? Do they all say "Truaa Dell Earthing" at game over? I realize this supposed to be "Try again Earthling", especially after hearing the sounds plus and vocalizer in comparison.
Most everyone's FG S&T speech that I have heard sound similar to mine. I think it is working 100 % properly, fully recapped + new pots. Most all the speech is pretty understandable except the "try again earthling". I just ordered a 250k trimpot to try making r9 variable; perhaps the speech can be a bit better?
Does your FG Squawk & Talk say "Trua Dell Earthling" at game over?
I suspect sound roms going bad, replacing mine fixed most of the speech issues.
Easy to convert the board over to eproms, grab the files from the pinball database and burn to chips.
I find some of the Big Daddy kits reasonable and convenient.
Very easy to waste a hour or two sorting through results on Mouser.
Big Daddy? Click, done.
Quoted from Quench:I presume the Pinpoint strobe board is a replica of the original? Is there a schematic for it?
Any chance you can post some clear pictures of the board front and back and also the wires at the connector?
I might have a schematic.
I have a Pinpoint board in my FG and it works fine.
Quoted from Quench:You running any Alltek boards by any chance?
Nope, all stock hardware with NVRAM
Quoted from hd60609:Honestly, I have been hoping someone much smarter than me would re-invent the strobe using lower voltage and an LED.
Some 12V 8SMD flashers from Comet Pinball would just fine.
Quoted from guitarded:Those are to fight trapped balls.
Huh! Always wondered about that!
Ordered new plastics for my FG, woot!
Quoted from slochar:Someone tightened them too much and the shaft splayed out trapping it in the pawl. It could also be that the bat didn't have the indent.
Also, you should replace the nails on the sling, not only blocks ball traps, they also hold the plastic up and prevent a really fast ball from pushing the rubber in too far, resulting in a weak sling.
I have used screw in posts from Gottlieb, they look nicer.
Quoted from Jkaping:I am in need of just the top left corner plastic. Does anyone have a spare I can buy?
Good luck, I ended up buying a complete set from CPR after looking for a year. Seems to be a commonly broken part.
Quoted from zahner:You’ll have to google it, but I was on the hunt a few years back and found a shop in England (I think - definitely Europe) that was selling that plastic. Very common to be busted from lifting the PF. I ended up just buying a new set from CPR since I needed a couple of other plastics.
Pinball.center/en/
About $45 shipped though.
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:The strobe light on my FG isn’t working. Is there any detailed instructions somewhere on how to fix it?
I replaced the caps on mine, which did nothing but good policy as they are way past rated life at this point! Then I replaced the flash bulb itself with one from a camera strobe and it works great now.
Quoted from ss-pinball:Does anyone have a recent CPR backglass? Are they decent? anything missing? How's the mirroring?
I purchased this one March of 2020 and it looks ok, the light masking is heavier than Bally factory.
2e1e1d123a9a3bec30232fd7eeab66a011da8e54 (resized).jpgLooking for some parts if you have them in your stash.
1) Strobe bracket
2) Playfield support brackets
3) Apron to playfield brackets
4) Z brackets between playfield
5) Cabinet brace (common)
6) Shooter lane ball stop.
brackets (resized).jpgc4e3cc68796adf3e00fbaa57d3842e30b6e420e1 (resized).jpgf6225373addda956688d9cf4db8aa92e5d5d4dea (resized).jpgff7ca1e8c9996a382aeaec9ae69e51e28f7cedf9 (resized).jpg
Added over 3 years ago: Fabricated strobe bracket.
Added over 3 years ago:Fabricated ball stop, playfield hangers and apron brackets.
Quoted from Boise_D:I did the caps too, and no change. Any idea where I can buy or find the right camera strobe? I've read about people tearing apart old cameras.
I.posted one a few posts up
Quoted from AUKraut:Some of those brackets, such as playfield to apron, seem to be Bally generic and may be available by Mantis amusements
Nope, Flash Gordon, Xenon and others have dropped playfields and the brackets are different.
Quoted from tomdrum:I'm doing a FG PF swap and need the orientation of the pop bumper lamps sockets. I lost my pics and need to know which side of the new lamp sockets are pointed. Is the socket rivet on the right or left side of each of the 3 pop bumpers? A pic or just the order would be great. Pic shows PBR sockets so you can see the rivet. [quoted image]
Does not matter.
Quoted from tomdrum:I always thought that, till a Xenon I did 2 years ago blew the GI fuse till I reversed a pop bumper socket. I now orient every socket the same. Send the orientation and I'll hunt thru my stash for the parts you need.
You had else something going on, its AC voltage powering the lamps so doesn't matter.
Quoted from gdonovan:Nope, Flash Gordon, Xenon and others have dropped playfields and the brackets are different.
Difference in brackets shown.
Flash Gordon on the left, Mr. And Mrs. PACMAN on right.
20210605_181754 (resized).jpgQuoted from NeilMcRae:folks,
got the chance to buy this the playfield is a hard top and looks to be have been done well but they then hired Steve Wonder to do the metal bits - how hard to remove/replace the yellow?
[quoted image]
Depends if powercoat or paint.
Legs can be repainted, the coin door and trim is stainless finish as is the side rails and lockdown. They can be refinished but long hours of labor there.
New shooter rod is no problem, can't recall if new shooter housing with Bally logo is available or not.
Quoted from Spraynard:Still looking for solutions to this saucer up kicker problem if anyone can help. I’ve tried bending/adjusting the kicker arm to no avail. I’ve double checked the coils are correct. I removed the coil spacer thing to introduce some more “slop”. Ball still pops up into glass. 90% of time it bounces straight back to saucer too...boring.
I'm having the same problem, the stock 1300 up kick coil lobs the ball right into the glass. Even tried installing a 2100 down kick coil but then it doesn't have enough juice to make it up the ramp. I'll try the same thing you did and see if I can rustle up a stronger spring.
Quoted from ita47:Is this what you are talking about? Saw it here on PS
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1256-upkick-pinball/04471-flash-gordon-drop-target-decals-
[quoted image]
Nope. I recall one as well, that's not it.
Quoted from EvanDickson:Can someone with the siegecraft led adapters take a picture for me? Step 4 is to attach the alligator clip for the wiring harness to 'common' wire which is described as braided, but not the GI braided wire. As far as I can tell, the only braided wire I have is for the GI. I'd love a pic of the alligator clip attached so I can see what I'm missing.
What pin?
Edit: sorry, thought I was in generic Bally/stern thread. Long day!
Look for the common wire that goes to tilt, shoot again and match.
Quoted from Enochsmoken:When I run the switch test I get an error on 03 the single drop target. I don't see anything wrong with the switch, except when the switch test starts the drop target is down and closing the contacts. Doesn't the test want to see all open switches?
As someone stated, manually raise the target. This is normal for Flash Gordon.
Quoted from arzoo:I'm getting ready to do my pf swap and started by counting how many sockets under the pf I'll need; I count 87.
[quoted image]
Missed a few.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Just joined the club and am loving this brutal game.
Quick question: Where is the volume knob on this thing?
Game is great, I still need to reset the high scores, change back to 3 ball, and turn off attract mode sounds. I assume that's all in the manual.[quoted image]
There is a main volume control on the coin door below the MPU test switch. The squawk and talk also has pots for sound and speech.
High score reset and background sounds are set from the coin door MPU button, number of balls from the dip switches on the MPU itself.
Quoted from hd60609:2) The upper single drop tends to pulse a bit. Meaning it is "up" to start a ball, drops when ball enters play, but then should return up so it can be knocked down again, but it doesn't.
Its picking up a switch activation. Go into the test menu and figure out which switch.
Quoted from arzoo:Same with me, flasher use to work fine but then one day the pin would not boot with the flasher connected. Since then the original MPU board has been replaced. The PS board has been replaced. I've re-pinned every connector in the head. About to do a pf swap and replace the displays. But still no lick with the flasher, must be something bad (cap?) on the strobe board.
Caps and flash bulb are common, as are broken header pins on the aux board that drives the strobe activation.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:For what it is worth, those parts are readily available and soldering these items was relatively easy as far as board work goes. Nice large pieces. The xenon bulb from AFM works, and can be gotten with long wires for $40. You can get the same thing without the wires for about $2, but my soldering skills are not that great. The caps were large and easy to work with.
I got one flash unit from a 7/11 disposable camera for $4, works great.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:I'm not sure if the one in AFM is exactly the same, but it works great. It doesn't pick up well on camera, but it's bright... like leaving shadows in your eyesight bright.
I have played around with a couple, they all look more or less the same to me.
FG is a great, tough game where the art on all three surfaces is firing on all cylinders.
Quoted from zahner:I actually tested my strobe in another FG and it worked fine. I have the new replacement board/strobe. Ultimately, quite frustrating.
Look at your aux board and the input/output pins. The flash unit is fired by the aux board. The aux board also runs the animated logo lamps and 2 pf lamps under Ming.
Quoted from guitarded:In concert with the Squawk and Talk. Re-Capping that one fixed any goofiness I had in my otherwise working Flasher.
S&T should have no impact on strobe operation.
The strobe is treated just like any other controlled lamp by the Aux board as far as the MPU is concerned.
Quoted from Heaterguy:Weird thing happened to my Flash the other night that Ive never seen...I got a free ball. LOL Just Kidding.
When I first got the game and got it going the strobe light didnt work. I re-capped the Strobe unit and replaced a burnt resistor and the strobe light. It didnt fix it. I didnt pursue any other troubleshooting measures. I have a large collection so it doesnt get played for more than 5 minutes at a time and then shut off.
Last week I hosted a tournament and it worked fine, it was left on for the entire evening and shut off. One of the guys stayed after the tournament and turned it on to play it. The strobe unit flashed on power up. I thought Woah its working! But the problem was it kept flashing. And Flashing...and Blinding...and flashing... until we turned it off. We waited 10 seconds and turned it on...nothing, no flash but the game played fine. Tried a few more times same result. It hasnt Flashed since. Weird...
Check connections at the Aux driver board.
Quoted from Heaterguy:Yeah I think I didnt re pin them but I re-seated them originally.
Check for cracked pin connections too.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Flash Gordon is a fantastic variety pin because it is such a butt kicker. If I were to play the Hobbit, I'd need at least a 45 minute block just in case I had a really good game. If I am going to play Flash Gordon, I need a 5 minute block just in case I have a really great game. Skills like post passing are critical if you are going to get anywhere on Flash. It is a great "git gud" game.
Post passing and being very deliberate in your shots, wild players need not apply.
Quoted from Tallon:The classic bally linear flippers have a feel. Back in the day, no one made parts and they were hard to get. Now pinball resource and pinball life both have good prices on flipper rebuild lots for these. Most people who say change them to the old mechs usually just don’t like the feel. That’s what was on the game, that’s what should stay on the game.
I have stock mechs on mine, they play fine if everything is as it should be.
Quoted from BigAl56:Bally Linear flippers and slings were considered an inferior upgrade per many pinball purists. That is why so many linear flipper games are found converted to classic flipper assemblies. The great Desi D' Percel created the linear designs and could talk your ear off explaining why they were superior. He always blamed the failure of linear components on inferior material substitutions by the purchasing department.
[quoted image]
I never had a problem with them provided they were in good condition.
Quoted from paulbaptiste:That's what I'm trying to understand. I don't think they are all fed together. I'm guessing there are 3 different strands (left and right bottom playfield and upper) but wanted someone to confirm. I don't want to put the game put up (I'm still fixing the cabinet and need to send out the boards) without making sure that the lights work completely. I've tested continuity on all the controlled lamps and all is well, but want to verify the Gi also. I can't wait to be done with this game and finally play it!
Bally spits up the playfield GI into two strings for Flash Gordon.
Be aware the Ming lamps are not GI but controlled.
Quoted from paulbaptiste:Do you know which side should be powering the upper playfield? Or is that split L to R as well?
I seem to recall it was split right left.
One string was white and red, the other green and orange. I think.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:YAY!
Glad to hear it on the drop target fixing the issue. It sounds like hours in the car bouncing around was the culprit. Whew.
As to the flashing. It worked intermittently on that particular machine. If you look at my post history here, I threw in a knew XENON light from an AFM and it worked periodically for me in that machine. It will flash 4 or so times during a game startup when its working. The most likely time for it to randomly work is while the backbox is open. You can try fidgeting with the connectors between the strobe board and the auxiliary lamp board on the door that swings out in the head.
I never could figure out what was going on with that one other than "it works sometimes".
Good luck!
During the controlled lamp test it will flash along with the controlled lamps.
Quoted from digitaldocc:Can somebody let me know if these insert lights at the switches on the top left are supposed to be always on with the GI? Or are they supposed to be logic controlled like the ones on the top right side? Under the playfield has some interesting GI modifications.
[quoted image]
If I remember right, they are in the GI circuit so on all the time.
Quoted from Jmxdc:What flash did you end up using?
They don't seem picky, I used one from a $5 throw away camera.
Quoted from BigAl56:Metal sleeves were the norm for high use coils until the early 70s when Bally and most others began using Duralon coil sleeves which were heat tolerant and self lubricating. FG should never had metal sleaves. Your game is probably the product of an overzealous restoration.
Or operator using whatever was on hand.
Quoted from sullivcd40:What would you guys do with this back cabinet damage?
[quoted image]
If changing out the back is not an option personally I'd sink some 3" or 4" screws with the heads sticking up a bit (1/4" to 3/8") and use fiberglass resin after "building a mold" with tape and carboard. Much stronger and the screw heads sticking out of the damaged area will support the repair better.
Quoted from sullivcd40:I think I'll try bondo first, if that doesn't work fiberglass resin, if that doesn't work replace the whole thing. Replacement seems like a huge pain so I'd rather avoid that.
Bondo will pop out in a milisecond with the chip board used on the back, you can of course as long as you accept you might be redoing in the future.
Quoted from sullivcd40:That is exactly my fear. Would you use fiberglass resin or something else?
h
I would use resin with anchors for grip. Really the labor difference is slight.
Quoted from BioBa:We normally design our replacement boards to be "plug-N-play" not requiring any wiring modifications.
Correct answer right there or you will be flooded with tech support calls.
Quoted from DanMarino:However, now both right flippers are no longer working. The left flipper works fine.
Check to see if a wire fell off the fuse holder you just installed a fuse in. The flippers get power from the 'cold side" of the fuse holder. Which is why the flippers still work when the fuse is blown, they are effectively fused down at the rectifier board (5 or 7 amp I think) and then the playfield device coils are "down fused" at that playfield location aside from the flippers of course. You might have knocked a wire off or a bad solder joint at fuse and also check the wire at the lower right flipper coil.
Quoted from frunch:Are the female MPU connectors original? If so, I'd replace them before replacing the Alltek board.
Very, Very common.
Quoted from DanMarino:I’ll spend some time rebuilding some more connector plugs and pins. I need to buy more 0.100 pins.
[quoted image]
My FB needed all the .100 rebuilt, just beat to death.
Quoted from DanMarino:Jmxdc Thanks again for the help and the photo. I'll flip up my playfield again this week and poke around the bases of those Ming computer lights.
If I remember correctly they are trigger through the AUX board so check for broken solder connection there.
Quoted from DanMarino:Thanks. I had the aux lamp board out last weekend and I worked on the header pins. I need to look at the connector again too.
Just tap the heat sink tab on the drivers to ground briefly, this will light the lamp the driver is attached too and let you know at least the lamp/socket/wiring to the controlled lamp works.
Quoted from DanMarino:Just for my learning, what does the A3 mean? (A3J2-1) Is that a code for the solenoid driver board?
Yes.
Quoted from DanMarino:Then the last item is getting that fancy flashing strobe light thing to work for the back glass.
That is also triggered by the AUX board so might be related. Common failure of the board is caps and or the flash assembly itself which is a pretty easy fix. I replaced mine with a unit harvested from a $5 throw away camera!
Quoted from Pinballer73:Nice work so far. Do you know if the artwork on your CPR playfield is digitally ptinted or screenprinted?
They are doing digital now, it's noticeable.
Quoted from Quench:If that connector wasn't retrofitted, this problem would never had occurred!
It's an extra point of failure for no good reason IMO.
Agreed.
It's one thing if it's a four bank drop target assembly, a connector really speeds up servicing and troubleshooting. But flippers? They get pounded without mercy and are very accessible.
Quoted from vec-tor:Bally got cheap and omitted the central cross brace from their TNT series of games.
TNT style game cabinets are made with pressboard composite martials. I have a
Bally Hardbody and the end result is the playfield no longer fits correctly in the
cabinet. The cabinet bows out and the playfield tore up the side braces and thuse,
the playfield falls down into the cabinet.
Flash Gordon is probably better off with the cabinet being made of real plywood.
They still bow a lot.
Quoted from zahner:Two of my favorite all time games. Nothing better than FG and El Dorado is great. High Speed is no slouch either.
Good move indoctrinating them young.
Someone brought a restored FG to Pintastic a few years ago, aside from Ghostbusters and Queen of Hearts the only pin to have that "gotta play one more game" feeling. Ghostbusters and Flash Gordon are part of my collection now.
Quoted from DanMarino:I’m going to go ahead and get a new lamp board for my Flash Gordon. Is there a consensus best value replacement board that will also eliminate LED flickering/ghosting?
Same for the Aux Lamp board? Any advice for best replacement?
The aux board does not need replacement for use with leds.
Three years in the making, finally wrapped up the playfield repairs and locked in with clearcoat.
All the inserts but the arrows replaced (note the one for Ming, always hated seeing the bulb) and the artwork reapplied. Learned how to cut vinyl stencils and use an airbrush so I could finish it proper.
Pinside_forum_7938262_0 (resized).jpg20200302_190439_NE (resized).jpgdamaged_one (resized).jpgdamaged_two (resized).jpg7587fc274c261fb0c5269ac22a45b90f65742fbd (resized).jpg
Quoted from vec-tor:??????
1) If noting the one bulb that is mounted on the top playfield on the edge,
--- the lamp came with a shield that made the lamp be a spot lamp for the top playfield.
Bally part #M-1779 [ as used on Flip-Flop and Space Invaders ]
Nope, the "shoot again" insert changed to a starburst to hide the bulb.
Quoted from Heaterguy:Picked up a decent used pf mine was toast. Before and after touch ups ready for clear. Not the best but an improvement in my eyes. This will be my first multi level PF swap. Not sure how im gonna mount it on the rotisserie.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
If you needs any art or scans can hook you up.
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Trying to locate where this connects …. Ipbd doesn’t have any good backbox pics and I haven’t found what I’m looking for in this topic gallery yet. Does anyone know where this goes?
[quoted image]
Speaker lead, goes to the sound board.
Lower right connector, you will see 2 pins separate from the others near the "-" of the big cap.
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Thank you. These two?
Also…..Speakers also look like this…I think I’m missing one?[quoted image][quoted image]
1) Yes.
2) Yes but not end of world. Some FG had single large speaker or 2 in series to match ohm rating of single large. Looks like one failed or someone needed one and just bypassed the second speaker.
Quoted from GraniteStatePin:Anybody ever see this? It's a little metal bulb shield...factory??? Was the only bulb that had it.[quoted image]
Normal for that location but suppose to be facing away from Ming.
Quoted from vec-tor:YES!!! It is Factory! It is a very rare part.
The EM Flip Flop has them as well.
Quoted from DanMarino:gdonovan what cabinet is your Flash Gordon in?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/seawitch-from-scratch-allentown-edition
My Universal Bally/Stern cabinet which was originally Data East Laser War.
I hope to have Seawitch, Flash Gordon and Fathom from scratch at Pintastic.
So far I have done Seawitch, Centaur, Quicksilver and Flash Gordon with Fathom being next and Star Trek after with a rules rewrite and custom sound.
Quoted from Jmxdc:I had to make my own from wire stock. Marco sells some and bending jig. Just search "wire stock". double check the thickness needed though, I think I used 12-WS-090 (.094).
I used stainless welding rod from welding store, far cheaper than buying from Marco.
If anyone is interested there are some detailed notes in my build thread about making a harness for Flash Gordon and how some things work.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/seawitch-from-scratch-allentown-edition/page/35#post-7996377
Quoted from arzoo:Pretty simple; use the Yoppsicles for for all the inserts and star-rollovers, everything else is GI.[quoted image]
Incorrect. The star roll overs on the right are all controlled lamps.
Only the two on the top left are GI string.
Quoted from arzoo:You can still use the Yoppsicles for the two GI star-rollovers on the left. And my statement is correct.
Everything else is "GI" implies all the star roll overs are controlled is my point, they are not.
It's a vaguely misleading reply.
Quoted from arzoo:In the past I've mixed sawdust with wood glue. But toothpicks work also.
Bamboo skewer myself
Quoted from digitaldocc:Can anyone tell my why the ball eject coil suddenly isn't working? The under the playfield fuse is good as flippers flip and pops pop. Was completly fine yesterday.
Could be any number of things. Run switch test to see if outhole switch working, run coil test to see if it fires.
Quoted from mad_carl:I'd be interested in this as well - the more info the better.
I'm about to work on a FG and I don't believe the strobe has worked in a while. Trying to see what's all involved and see if I can revive what's there, or if a modern aftermarket replacement is going to be the best route.
My experience it's either the caps or flash unit, both which are readily available and cheap.
I fixed mine with a flash unit from a $5 disposable camera purchased at a gas station.
Quoted from mad_carl:That straight forward huh?
Yup, 3 wires and hot glued in place.
Quoted from bballfan:Has anyone tried these from Big Daddy?[quoted image]
Runs off controlled insert voltage so no more than 5-6 volts. If you have nothing at all, better than nothing.
Quoted from DanMarino:gdonovan I need to get my flash unit working. I think I've done the easy stuff like rebuilding the connectors and converting them to molex. Would you be able to post a photo of the type of disposable camera you are talking about?
It really does not seem to matter. Used one from a professional camera and another from a gas station throw away.
c928de729783bf855db2c4fad7afdbee637c54ed (resized).jpgcc89192186c76bbcfae62d319969e24fd9478da8 (resized).jpgQuoted from rack-em-up:Can someone tell me what Bally called the little metal tabs that were apparently used to join/extend wires like the two shown in this picture. These two are on my Flash Gordon playfield. Think they were also used on several other Bally pins of that era.
[quoted image]
technically they are called grounding lugs.
How many do you need? If just a few I'll drop them in the mail.
Quoted from zahner:You guys are better players than me! I’ve owned a Flash Gordon for a long time, and I’m thrilled to get 400,000! My favorite game, but indeed brutal
My best is 2.3 million, though most games end below 1 million.
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider gdonovan.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flash-gordon-saviors-of-the-universe-club?tu=gdonovan and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Berkeley Springs, WV
Toronto, ON