U10 is not used on S&T set up for Flash Gordon
(Topic ID: 65903)
Linked Games
Flash Gordon
Bally, 1981-
Flash Gordon
Bell Games, 1981
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2 months later
Quoted from Toasterdog:I really have to get my FG up and running correctly. I restored the cabinet and had someone do a playfield swap for me (after looking for a CPR replacement for what seemed like an eternity) My problem was when I was finishing the cabinet up I accidentally plugged the strobe transformer into the backbox receptacle and vice versa. Weird these are next to each other and keyed the same . The game plays almost 100%, but I have no backbox lights and that means no sound either. I love Flash Gordon, but the sound is a must IMO.
When I did my oops moment and powered the game on I saw a small poof of smoke from the #1 display area. I had new displays ready to replace anyway and they currently work, but it didn't fix my no backbox lights issue. MY strobe board is new and worked, but it doesn't seem to do anything either. F2 blows on start up. I have looked for obvious signs of failure but don't see anything out of the ordinary. Anyway, its tough to look at this beauty and not play it. The CPR PF is awesome by the way, the neon colors really react to the blacklight in my arcade too.
You know the strobe transformer puts out 115v AC on two pins. What did those two pins ultimately connect to? on the plugs how many pins were on each one? the same? I think maybe your GI gothit with 115v AC. Probably shorted wires in the backbox. The sound may not be working because the S&T board requires voltage from the GI to work. No GI = no sound.
11 months later
Quoted from Fytr:Hey guys I’m finishing up my restore project FG that I traded for and I just realized that I’m missing the entire ball kickout coil mechanism.
I don’t have any of it, no mounting bracket, no coil, and no metal kick arm to push the ball out of the trough and into the shooter lane.
Does anyone know if these parts are available anywhere?
eBay
2 weeks later
I'm hoping someone can come up with a rattle can version of the yellow/gold color that matches the original. I could never find one.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Jappie:Hi fellow FG owners,
I've just received the new drop targets that I ordered on Ebay from Classic Arcades.
I was under the impression that these were supposed to be hot stamped, but the ones I received have decals on them. The ones I ordered for my Fireball II were actually hot stamped.
Does anybody know the story behind this?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Classic arcades is poor quality in general.
Go after him on Ebay. request a return and he will have to send you a shipping label to return the items and refund all your payment including the high shipping cost you paid. This guy sells a lot of bad quality products.
1 year later
Maybe your meter is off. What voltage do you have coming into the game from the wall? Anyway, I don't think 135 would matter in the short run on the strobe board. Sounds like the flash bulb might have crapped out.
3 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from UNCgump:What's a heat sink and how does it work? And yes the switch is easy to get at. Comfortable soldering. How does one de-solder? I assumed I'd just be cutting something.
You don't need a heat sink to change out a switch. Just Use a soldering iron and heat the tabs that the wire is soldered to on the switch. They should pop right off.
Why would you suck the solder off an old switch that your going to throw away. The diode should always be replaced when using a new switch. At a few cents each its not worth removing it and reusing. Just sayin.
2 months later
The original FG color was not really gold, like you see in a lot of restorations. It’s the same mustard/yellow used on eight ball deluxe.
Quoted from Llabnip1972:Btw, the yellow was a personal choice over the ugly gold bally used. Imo it's a huge improvement.
2 months later
Quoted from Fytr:Yes, the bottom two pop bumpers are always on (part of the GI string), as are the top left rollover lanes.
Your blue collect bonus light probably has a bad transistor on the light board. Check the light board schematics to find out which one it is and replace.
Any S&T board version will work fine with the correct roms and jumpers
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Pictures of the sound board will help. Depending what it came out of you may need to install extra chips or remove some. Also every jumper needs to be checked. I had to do that on a spare S&T that I rebuilt a while ago.
Last Flash Gordon sound card I fixed had multiple issues. It ended up needing a new DAC chip.
Be sure to check all the voltages on the sound board too.
The S & T when used in FG does not use the DAC. You can leave it in or remove it. Doesn’t matter.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Did you get the caps separately or did someone sell you a kit? Just wonder who is selling kits with those style caps. Those should have been all Axial caps. I think Big Daddy sells kits with the correct axial versions. I personally dislike installing radial caps like that unless there is no other choice. I don't like the way they stand off the board with their leads mounted so far away. They are fine with the holes right under the cap but never meant to be mounted like that. While they will function it just isn't right. My Elektra was the same way when I got it and stripped all of those off and redid them. Here is a picture with the caps from Big Daddy on the last sound board I went through.
[quoted image]
Radial caps are fine. The Big Daddy kit is overpriced in my opinion.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:$12.95 for the full kit with the correct style caps all matching is overpriced? That’s less than ordering the caps separately from most places. Where are people buying kits for these cheaper than that? Even if it is less I still think it’s worth a few more dollars for the correct style. Having radial lead caps with their leads stretched out like that isn’t good nor looks good.
I guess after spending a lot of time making my games as nice as I can I try to make the boards for them clean too. Same goes for when I repair boards for others.
Yea $12.95 is ok. I guess that’s a good deal if you meet the minimum order of $30. I think I saw him selling the kit on EBay for around $25.
1 month later
1 month later
2 years later
Quoted from sullivcd40:What would you guys do with this back cabinet damage?
[quoted image]
Fiberglass resin
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Berkeley Springs, WV
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