Pictures of the sound board will help. Depending what it came out of you may need to install extra chips or remove some. Also every jumper needs to be checked. I had to do that on a spare S&T that I rebuilt a while ago.

Last Flash Gordon sound card I fixed had multiple issues. It ended up needing a new DAC chip.

Be sure to check all the voltages on the sound board too.

Here is the sound board...looks right to the diagrams I got...

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Some of the connectors aren't in the right positions.
Check the connector diagrams again and write down the wire colors at each pin so you can correct it.

Otherwise the board looks like it's jumpered correctly.

The S & T when used in FG does not use the DAC. You can leave it in or remove it. Doesn’t matter.

I wanted to check the difference in sound but you can't find repro S&T boards right?

Two repros available from Europe:

https://coinop.mally.eu/produkt.php?parent=3&kategorie=7064&content=BALLY%20Repros
https://mypinballs.com/electronics/store.jsp

Wow. Over $300 plus shipping

Your [ J1 ] connector!!!! OUCH!!!

Yes, there should really only be one Molex housing at J1, not three

Oh I know - reworking it tonight I think. I said it was hacked. I want to replace as many plugs as I can just because it will make the game more dependable.

I’d go with this one. Mpu and S&T combined:
https://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=2&nv=1&pto=aue&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=auto&sp=nmt4&tl=en&u=https://www.pinball-technology.com/produits/nb2/&usg=ALkJrhj4RmqZjA8fHYAJdtL5M-CV2lWTPA

i wanted to try the Sound plus/Vocalizer to see the difference, looks like https://coinop.mally.eu/ has repro but at EUR300 it's a bit much to test it out

With the help if the group - all cleaned up.

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Did you get the caps separately or did someone sell you a kit? Just wonder who is selling kits with those style caps. Those should have been all Axial caps. I think Big Daddy sells kits with the correct axial versions. I personally dislike installing radial caps like that unless there is no other choice. I don't like the way they stand off the board with their leads mounted so far away. They are fine with the holes right under the cap but never meant to be mounted like that. While they will function it just isn't right. My Elektra was the same way when I got it and stripped all of those off and redid them. Here is a picture with the caps from Big Daddy on the last sound board I went through.

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I know it’s not the right caps but I had to acquire all the boards so I took what I could get. Squawk and Talk boards are not the cheapest or easiest to get. So, to get a recapped board at a decent price was a win for me. I am not a purist I seek dependable or upgraded components on all the restores I do. I didn’t have a strong desire to get a board then recap it, it was already done. It will work...

Looking for help with my after market strobe module. It is the Pinpoint Bally Flash Gordon AS-2518-62 Strobe Board. I've had it a number of years, and it has always caused issues so severe I have left it unplugged. I have Alteck boards throughout the pin, the only original being the sound board. The game either immediately goes into an alarm mode [lots of alert beeping, sounding like a European emergency vehicle, and no bootup] or it sort of starts, but then quickly goes into the the alarm mode and stops working. I tried to trouble shoot with the folks at Altek and Pinpoint, but that didn't yield any positive results. But since then, I did discover something.

So, I was chatting with some pinheads and we get on the subject of the FG strobe and someone suggested I check some connectors to the Squawk and Talk board. I recalled I had two boards for sound, and they said I was old and failing to recall correctly.
So, I check it out and I do have two boards and looking into it discovered that I have a very low production number [apparently #34, AKA: old] and that the first 100 FGs or so produced used the leftover boards from Xenon. I also discovered that the schematic is different for games with the old soundboard set. When you look at the plug diagram on the two schematics, it's different. I'm beginning to think I've stumbled onto something - However, the plug in my game is consistent with the schematic for the Squawk and Talk rather than the schematic for the two board sound set.
So, I'm completely confused.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. I've attached chunks of the two schematics. The one with the A13 Strobe Module with the key in position 5 is for the Squawk and Talk, and is how my plug is wired and keyed. [the aftermarket strobe is also set for a key in position 5]. The schematic with the key in position 6 is for the two board set. I have the manual with the Squawk and Talk and that manual also has a schematic for the strobe module. I was working from a download from the Pinball database for FG that was the one supplied with the two board set like I have. Other than the difference I have included in the photos, the only other thing I could see is that there is no diagram/schematic for the strobe module.

I'm suspecting that the strobe may not work with my set up, but thought I'd ask folks who get the engineering aspect of this stuff, because this can be daunting for me. Thanks

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Radial caps are fine. The Big Daddy kit is overpriced in my opinion.

The early schematic calls it a "flash module" not "strobe module". Without the 115VAC connections, the "4 strobe lights" and 43 volt connections I suspect it originally had a circuit that just flashed four 12V incandescent lights connected in series and switched across the 43 volt circuit - somewhat like the four 12V flashing lights in Fireball II doodle bug area.

Do you have the extra 115VAC transformer in the lower cabinet that's wired to the strobe connector?
Has the strobe ever flashed on the Pinpoint strobe board?

I concur. The module might be a version of centaur's solenoid snuber relay.

$12.95 for the full kit with the correct style caps all matching is overpriced? That’s less than ordering the caps separately from most places. Where are people buying kits for these cheaper than that? Even if it is less I still think it’s worth a few more dollars for the correct style. Having radial lead caps with their leads stretched out like that isn’t good nor looks good.

I guess after spending a lot of time making my games as nice as I can I try to make the boards for them clean too. Same goes for when I repair boards for others.

I find some of the Big Daddy kits reasonable and convenient.

Very easy to waste a hour or two sorting through results on Mouser.

Big Daddy? Click, done.

Yea $12.95 is ok. I guess that’s a good deal if you meet the minimum order of $30. I think I saw him selling the kit on EBay for around $25.

Yes, it has the 115VAC transformer and it does fire the strobe. So, it appears to be wired for the strobe module and I suspect that my “discovery” ultimately brings me no closer to understanding why plugging in the strobe causes so much chaos.

Well, I finally sorted my Right Flipper Fire -> Saucer Bonus Award issue.
Turns out it was not my saucer (upkick) that I was getting awarded the points for, but the single drop target guarding the shooter lane!
That drop was terribly inconsistent and I ended up throwing an Alltek SDB in there. Now it is working fine and the Random Award was definitely related to it being in the down position. So, after replacing the messed up switch associated with it no more Mystery Awards.
Problem solved.

Unfortunately, my Squawk Box has started to get all garbled and fades almost completely after a few games now.

I am assuming it just needs a full recap, maybe?

Anyway. Nice to have proper scoring again.

I presume the Pinpoint strobe board is a replica of the original? Is there a schematic for it?
Any chance you can post some clear pictures of the board front and back and also the wires at the connector plus the 115VAC transformer?

I might have a schematic.

I have a Pinpoint board in my FG and it works fine.

You running any Alltek boards by any chance?

Nope, all stock hardware with NVRAM

Thanks so much for the interest. Attached are a couple of photos of the plug. I do not have and couldn’t find a schematic for the pinpoint. For yucks and grins, I included the schematic of the original strobe.

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All I have, sorry.

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Thanks. I tried to contact the folks at Pinpoint, but couldn’t find an email. I appears they no longer offer the strobe module.

Cheers, I don't think it's a 100% replica. The original schematic shows seven resistors, I only see four resistors on the Pinpoint diagram.

@zahner, do you have a factory Bally MPU board to try?

Pretty sure I do. I will dig it out and give it a shot. Wonder if it could be the aux lamp driver board? That is directly wired into the strobe ...
While I’m pretty good with all the mechanical stuff, the logic of computer boards can baffle me.

With Flash Gordon ROMs?
Otherwise try changing the solenoid driver board first for a Bally board if you have a spare.

The strobe board generates high voltages to ignite the xenon tube - this is being picked up in the game as noise and upsetting something in the Alltek setup.

I do have a board with the game ROMs. I should have the original solenoid board also. I’ll start with the old MPU.

Do you think that they would make a special run of the strobe assembly and board if there were several of us willing to order them now?

Is there enough interest to ask?

If I can’t figure this out, I might be selling mine

I would be buying. Either a reproduction or yours.

Honestly, I have been hoping someone much smarter than me would re-invent the strobe using lower voltage and an LED.

THIS. All day long. This.

My strobe no longer works and I don’t really miss it.
The game keeps me entertained enough without the blinding strobe.

Some 12V 8SMD flashers from Comet Pinball would just fine.

I could swear I saw an aftermarket strobe assembly for sale somewhere. I’ll have to do some digging. I believe it utilized led’s.

Hey folks - I am looking at picking up a Flash Gordon. I have heard mixed reviews on hardtops and gameplay. I may not be able to play the game in person before picking it up, so, I am curious: do you have a hardtop installed? If so, how is the gameplay?

If anybody hears of a FG up for sale, please point them to me! Thanks!

Installed a Hardtop on mine, and it plays perfectly! Really smooth and a joy to play compared to before.

I have one and a location in town has one. Both play great as far as I can tell.

Just installed one on my restore - plays great - looks great. I could not play mine as a before because the machine was in pieces but I have played FG many times before and I prefer the hardtop, its smooth no cupped inserts. No wear spots....

Thank you! Appreciate the quick responses! Hoping to join soon!

Flash! Savior of the Universe!

Not in the club (but love the game). Was walking through the mall on the way to the Lego Store with my little ones and saw FLASH is playing in AMC and Cinemark theaters (that are open) for a 40th anniversary special for the next few weeks. Tickets were $5 where I was but the movie was likely too much for my 4 year old. In any case, if you have not seen it and want an excuse to go to the movies... now is the time!

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