(Topic ID: 65903)

Flash Gordon: Saviors of the Universe Club

By TheShameGovernor

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Quench
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#531 6 years ago
Quoted from RoyGBev:

In the club now! Got a nearly ready to play project! Look at the drop targets: Two Dolly Partons, a Paragon, and a...well then two Paragons.
As much as I want to play it, I have about five projects ahead of it. Willing to bring to TPF: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/2018-texas-pinball-festival-maybe-for-sale-thread/page/7#post-4276994

Now I'm nearly in the club now! I'm buying this machine Hopefully it's not much worse than it looks

#533 6 years ago

It'll be a fun journey I hope. I have found that I really enjoy rehabbing these machines, as I've only started collecting over the last year, and this is probably the worst machine that I'll be acquiring. Still debating on doing full cab paint, since it looks easy enough...but what I think might be easy, and reality are two totally different things! First things first, get the game home and playing 100%!

#535 6 years ago
Quoted from Toasterdog:

I really have to get my FG up and running correctly. I restored the cabinet and had someone do a playfield swap for me (after looking for a CPR replacement for what seemed like an eternity) My problem was when I was finishing the cabinet up I accidentally plugged the strobe transformer into the backbox receptacle and vice versa. Weird these are next to each other and keyed the same . The game plays almost 100%, but I have no backbox lights and that means no sound either. I love Flash Gordon, but the sound is a must IMO.
When I did my oops moment and powered the game on I saw a small poof of smoke from the #1 display area. I had new displays ready to replace anyway and they currently work, but it didn't fix my no backbox lights issue. MY strobe board is new and worked, but it doesn't seem to do anything either. F2 blows on start up. I have looked for obvious signs of failure but don't see anything out of the ordinary. Anyway, its tough to look at this beauty and not play it. The CPR PF is awesome by the way, the neon colors really react to the blacklight in my arcade too.

That's purty...I wish I could help

1 week later
#538 5 years ago

Took possession of my machine yesterday! It needs a good bit of TLC; no key for the back box so I'm going to drill it out today. The head was detached, so I haven't had a chance to power it up yet. It's got years and years of dirt and grime all over it and the upper playfield has quite a bit of wear. The lower playfield looks good from what I can see. Needs new drop targets, as there's an amalgamation of other bally drops. Will get the full treatment!

#540 5 years ago
Quoted from Captive_Ball:

Pictures or it didn't happen

Well, my friend. You're in for a treat!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flash-gordon-a-shop-out-log

1 week later
#541 5 years ago

Finally got done with 99% of the shop out and got a few games in. I can see why this game is so highly regarded! It's awesome! Can't wait to sort out the last few things and get it in with the rest of the lineup!

#542 5 years ago

Question on flipper alignment. Do you guys have the flippers in line with the ball guide or do you have it centered on the hole? Mine are centered on the hole right now, but it feels a little too low. I did order new cliffy ball guides so that may have an impact on it. It might be a while until they arrive.

#544 5 years ago

I've got quite a bit of hop on mine, but it's obvious the guides are very worn down. I'm thinking Titan thin flipper rubbers will help too. I'll try to keep the flippers in-line with the ball guides. It feels too low as it is right now.

#546 5 years ago

Cliff is a couple months behind so if you want them, you better put the order in soon!

I was asking about the flipper alignment because my Paragon flippers are aligned with the hole and they feel a lot better than Flash Gordon does so I was a little confused.

#549 5 years ago
Quoted from Captive_Ball:

I installed the modified Cliffy guides and used the thinner flipper rubbers a while back in my FG. It did help with the flipper hop, but It didn't eliminate it.

I've seen HEP use a dowel wrapped with sandpaper to make the hole where the flipper bushing comes through the playfield just a tad bigger to help with ball hop. Might something to think about. Playing with ball hop is the worst! I can be an on-the-fly player sometimes, so that smooth transition is a must for me.

#551 5 years ago
Quoted from Captive_Ball:

I'll have to take a look at that...thanks for the info. Do you happen to have a link to that post or tell me which thread to look for it?

Yeah man. Right here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/taxi-2018-hep/page/10#post-4207373

I asked about doing it on TWD, since it is is pretty normal for that game. But thankfully, it was remedied by Titan's thin flipper rubber.

#552 5 years ago

So I aligned the flippers so the hole is lined up with the bottom edge of the flipper, instead of being centered on the flipper tip, and it plays MUCH better now. That alignment happens to line up the flipper with the ball guides. Next question is, what do you have your Dip Switches set at? I started off with all "Conservative" setting but then moved them to "Recommended Settings" in the manual. Thinking about moving them back.

Also, what slope do you have yours set at? Mine is right around 6.5 right now, but thinking about going all the way up in the back, or to about 7.5? I like it fast and deadly. No mercy!

#554 5 years ago

Whatever the recommended settings are in the manual. I'll get a pic of it when i get home, or you could look it up on IPDB.

Quoted from wm6929:

thought 6.5 was a bit too much for the early SS games.
What are your dip settings?

#556 5 years ago

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#557 5 years ago

With the dipswitch ON, it retains lit shots from ball to ball. If it is off, it does not, so making it harder to get 2X playfield, Lit drop targets, etc.

I've learned that over that last couple days, even with the switches on, I can barely break 1 mil. that 1.5 Mil game I had must have been a fluke...

#559 5 years ago

Does anyone know if Flash Gordon uses an extra long shooter rod than other games? I bought a new rod from PBR but it is much shorter than the old one. The new on is on the left.

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2 weeks later
#564 5 years ago

Thanks! Sent him a PM about selling since he's listing specifically for a trade.

#568 5 years ago
Quoted from timab2000:

I sent him a message over a week ago, does not respond for some reason. Why do people do that???

There was "sale pending" when I looked last. Also, he wanted quite a bit for the PF, so i politely declined

#570 5 years ago

1750

#572 5 years ago

Yeah, that's why I passed

4 weeks later
#587 5 years ago
Quoted from Spitfiren8:

So I pulled the under pf fuse and the game still resets if the left pop switch is activated, this is the only switch that causes a reset. Under pf wiring looks fine.
I have a feeling i need to repin all my connectors. Can i swap in my Medusa mpu to troubleshoot or will that cause any issues? I already slaved in the solenoid driver from medusa and the same issues were persistant.

If you disconnect the cabinet, coin door, and pf slam tilt switches, does triggering the left pop bumper still cause a reset? Is there a diode connected on the pop bumper switches?

#589 5 years ago

Maybe Quench has an idea? The wiring on the switch looks fine to me. I'm wondering if there's any battery damage to the MPU or something like that?

#593 5 years ago
Quoted from Tallon:

No one is going to mention the new y5f cap that’s marked 12v? Ok I’ll keep watching

I'm pretty sure those are all original as I swapped a bunch out of my own game due to phantom switch hits.

3 weeks later
#605 5 years ago

Looks great! I have two Ballys that could use new paint. The only problem I have with FG is if I repaint, the cabinet and backglass would look minty, but the beat pf and yellowed/bent plastics would look a little out of place

#607 5 years ago
Quoted from comment23:

Sounds like a Hardtop would be in your future *wink* *wink*

My pf is so-so
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flash-gordon-a-shop-out-log#post-4298401

1 week later
#611 5 years ago
Quoted from radium:

Does anyone repair the original Bally strobe boards? Mine never has worked and had the world's largest wasp nest on it when I bought it. Would rather repair the original than get a reproduction board if possible.

What's wrong with it? Are the traces bad? Connectors bad? Have you tried a new flasher bulb?

#617 5 years ago

Waiting for the PFs to get re-released too!

2 months later
#634 5 years ago
Quoted from radium:

Was on bigdaddy-enterprises.com and came across this. Looks a lot different than my original board!
[quoted image]

For $100, this person will come to your house, turn on a flash light, and cover the lens repeatedly for the strobing effect. Of course, only when you're playing Flash Gordon. For times outside of actual play, you will have to negotiate your terms.

#636 5 years ago
Quoted from radium:

That's pretty cool, what do I feed her?

Cigarettes and Jack Daniels

4 months later
#658 5 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Starting to order some parts for my FG. I will be rebuilding the three flippers with kits from Pinballlife. I don't find any drop target rebuild kits around, but mine obviously need work. Does anyone know which coil sleeves are used for the drop target coils? They look to be a larger diameter than "usual". I have not taken one apart yet to measure. Prefer to order from Pinballlife if possible since I have a sizable cart started.

They must have recently just added rebuild kits for this era game. When I did my Ballys, they didn't have them...When I shop out this era game, I usually go to pbresource.com as they have more of the parts needed for these older games. For the drop target coil sleeves, I believe you can use the large diameter sleeve WLL-03-7068. Check out pics here: http://www.pbresource.com/coilsleeve.html

I'm not sure the pinball life has this diameter sleeve, but you can always email Terry to ask him.

1 month later
#674 5 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:Underneath is completely populated, and topside is almost complete. Rebuilt all the drop targets, flippers, coil sleeves in everything.

Did you leave the bottom side populated when you stripped and sanded the topside? Does yours have cracked inserts and did you replace them?

#676 5 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

I left the bottom 80% populated. I removed the drops The Flipper assemblies the slingshots. I also had a donor play field that I switched out the entire light sockets due to rust. In hindsight, I should have just used the other Playfield. But it's too late now. I also had to remount my flippers because they had been moved because of hogged out holes, and the slingshots with the same way. I replaced all of the clear inserts on the play field because they were all cracked and crazed and once the new ones were installed I buffed them all out instead of clearing.

Thanks. I've contemplated getting a hard top or waiting for a CPR rerun. It might be a LONG while before CPR does their digital printing rerun. I know the FG hardtops are limited in number, so I may have to make that decision sooner rather than later, if any are still available. The inserts on my game are cracking/crazing as well, so if I go this route, I will probably have to replace them all before sanding the playfield down.

#678 5 years ago
Quoted from radium:

I mentioned replacing my inserts in another thread and was told the crazing is totally normal. Haven't decided yet if I will replace them anyway. Also haven't checked if all the colors/sizes are available anywhere.

I think for the most part you could probably go with clear inserts and colored LEDs to match the original. I don't think there are any "special" inserts, though I can't remember off the top of my head.

1 week later
#688 5 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Well I'm still moving forward with completion of FG. A few current issues I'm trying to work through. I keep blowing F5 fuse on the power supply. It will not blow if the playfield connector is not installed. Once installed it didn't instantly blow the fuse. I thought I had it solved when I hit the right flipper and the fuse blew. So I installed another fuse and had the playfield lifted. I turned on the machine and once it booted the fuse blew. So maybe not specifically related to the right flipper. But I'm assuming something grounded do to the playfield being in the upright position. I've attached a photo of my right flipper assembly. Anyone see any issues with wiring?
[quoted image]

There's a way to set up a breaker so that you're not blowing through fuses so quickly (pun intended). You'll have to look up what to get and how to set it up, but would be worth the effort to help troubleshoot.

1 week later
#703 5 years ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Where can I find a replacement flipper for the upper right smaller flipper (I think 2 inches)? Also, where can I find a rebuild kit for the same? Thank You in Advance

Pbresource should have everything you need.

#707 5 years ago
Quoted from blowback1976:

Sorry, meant the wire guides before the metal flipper ones.

This thread may be helpful
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wire-ball-guide-help

#710 5 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Working through a couple small issues with my FG. All my GI is working with the exception of these four bulbs. They flash on upon startup, but then they all go out at the same time. When I check voltage compared to other GI, all four read differently than anything else. Any thoughts is far as a direction to troubleshoot?
[quoted image]

Have you checked the wired connections on all of them? They might be wired in a chain, and if something "upstream" is loose, it may affect the bulbs "downstream."

#713 5 years ago
Quoted from blowback1976:

Are those the ones under the Ming plastics? If so, they only light up during certain times during play. That's why they turn on when first powered up. You should also see them cycle during attract.

If they are controlled lamps, they should work under test mode. If not, then they should be lit as GI. Different approaches depending in what kind of lamps they are. I cant remember off hand which ones they are but knowing that would help troubleshooting.

#720 5 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

The Ming lights are fine. But working through a couple other small electrical gremlins. With the machine sitting in attract mode, if you trigger the switch for the saucer, the solenoid will engage. The other strange occurrence is the single drop target in the upper playfield, again while in attract mode, manually dropping the target has sometimes credited a game. Also once a game has been credited, sometimes hitting the right flipper will score 10000 points and create sound. I've traced wires under the playfield, but so far, have not found any that are crossed or touching or chafed. Not quite sure of a direction to troubleshoot in after looking at wires.

Check your switches. If you're getting a credit, I would suspect the credit switches in the coin door may not be adjusted correctly. If you're getting points, there's a switch that is gapped too closely and the vibrations are causing the switch to make contact.

1 week later
#740 5 years ago
Quoted from Andyzola87:

Finally finished the hardtop install, now just putting everything back together after 2 years of being torn apart. The clear inserts look awesome with the hardtop
[quoted image]

I'm still trying to hold out for a CPR re-release, but that does look good. The problem for me is that, it would be playing on a plastic surface instead of a cleared wood surface, as I don't particularly care for playing on playfield protectors.

2 weeks later
#758 4 years ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Did some painting today!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice! I gotta do this to mine too. Mine is a nice pink just like your was.

#759 4 years ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

I have a CPR Flash Gordon playfield I bought in 2013. I never got around to installing it, and now getting rid of all pinball stuff. Does anyone know what this could sell for?
Thanks,
Brad

I'm interested in buying it from you. Let me know!

#761 4 years ago

You guys posting cabinet restores makes me want to do mine!

#772 4 years ago

For you guys painting cabs...what playfield restoration did you go with. Hardtop? CPR? NOS? None?

#778 4 years ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

CAUTION!!!!
Do not use Molotow Gold Dollar over Rustoleum Gloss Black!!!!!!!!
I just found out the hard way[quoted image]

Damn! That sucks!

1 week later
#806 4 years ago

It's the common "Bally Brick." If you hit the drop target too hard, it'll bounce right off like nothing happened. Happens in a lot of games though, not just Bally.

#834 4 years ago
Quoted from Jappie:

Hi fellow FG owners,
I've just received the new drop targets that I ordered on Ebay from Classic Arcades.
I was under the impression that these were supposed to be hot stamped, but the ones I received have decals on them. The ones I ordered for my Fireball II were actually hot stamped.
Does anybody know the story behind this?
[quoted image][quoted image]

If the seller (and auction) claimed that they are hot stamped and they showed up like this, I would have a case opened for misrepresenting the items and getting a refund. Agreed with Madmax541 I always buy classic repro parts from pbresource. They are hot stamped.

#839 4 years ago
Quoted from Jappie:

Thanks for the tip. I might do that. Thing is, the ad doesn't specifically say they are hot stamped. I assume they would be, because the ad does say this:
CLICK HERE TO SEE A VIDEO OF OUR STATE OF THE ART HOT STAMPER IN ACTION
...and because the bumper caps I once bought for my Bally Playboy from this seller were actually hot stamped.
I asked the seller through Ebay if I've made a wrong assumption. Will let you know the reply.

ebay.com link: Bally Flash Gordon Pinball Machine Drop Target Set

Yeah, I just saw that. It is very misleading to state that you have a hot stamper (In action) but that they didn't state specifically that the targets were hot stamped. The assumption is there. At 50+6 shipping, and a negative feedback, I would pursue a refund and get the real thing from PB resource. They are $4.00 each plus shipping from Steve. Cheaper and the real deal.

#840 4 years ago
Quoted from Jappie:

Good to know. Next time, PBR it shall be. Have they updated their payment options already? I remember it being kind of a hassle to order from them from overseas.

They still do it old school. phone or email order, pay them by check once you receive the goods.

#852 4 years ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Are you giving your machines steroids for a competitive advantage? JK, no clue what your problem is, hope it is resolved soon.

The saucer, when kicking the ball to the upper playfield, is hitting the glass.

#856 4 years ago
Quoted from zahner:

Okay - nobody will like my solution, but I had the same frustrating issue [it was just the opposite direction - a mighty fling into the pop bumper] and the spring thing didn't work, the tab thing didn't work, none of the quick fixes worked - except one. I was going to put in a weaker coil, but as a stop-gap until I got around to that, I rummaged around and found a coil stop that had a much deeper reach than the stock one on the mechanism. I could not tell you what machine the replacement stop was from, it was just in a bag of old nasty goodies, but it worked, and it worked three years ago when I was rebuilding my then newly purchased FG, and I have long since abandoned the thought of messing with replacing the coil. It has for three years been very nicely popping out exactly as it should. it was a very mechanical,low tech way to restrict the throw of the plunger that has had no side effects as far as I know.

I think it's a great solution. It might be that the original issue is a worn/depleted coil stop. A fresh or longer coil stop will most certainly shorten the throw of the arms, and I think it is a much better solution and any of the other you mentioned.

2 weeks later
#867 4 years ago
Quoted from Jappie:

For those interested: Classic Arcades stopped communicating. I issued a dispute on Paypal, to which they didn't reply either. Paypal now gave me a full refund for receiving an inferior product. Sad that things have to go this way, but at least justice is served. Or something.

It's a small victory. Make sure you leave the negative feedback and a 1-star review on the item, so that future buyers will know that the targets are not hot stamped, and that there are other places that offer a genuine replacement. We don't need these kinds of vendors in the hobby.

3 weeks later
#885 4 years ago
Quoted from Lysurgeon:

In the club. God damn, i love pinball...[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks like it needs a fuse

#893 4 years ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

Back in the club!
Picked up a local game that is far from perfect but still a fun player. Perfect backglass but whoever maintained this game used whatever drop targets they could find as I think only two have the correct design. The strobe lamp needs some help as well. . . almost forgot how much I liked the callouts on this game!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome! You gonna do a restore on this one? Seems to look in pretty good shape from what I can tell!

#896 4 years ago

I'm at conservative settings for everything, except for the upper drop targets, which carry over from ball to ball. Even then, I rarely ever drop a full lit set. I think most people will say set it to conservative for everything. I've been too lazy

#904 4 years ago
Quoted from QuietEarp:

I asked the question because it seems like the main element that changes between 1979 and 1980 in Bally games is the carry over of progression ball to ball. It is weird that people seem to play FG (one of the hardest games already) on the hardest settings (conservative) which does not carry over the progress.
After realizing that most FGs I have played have been on conservative settings I figured I would ask the question of the club!
It seems like I would prefer to have progress saved ball to ball, but I didn't want to be the one person who did so!

Doesnt really matter if others do or not, as long as you find enjoyment out of it!

#913 4 years ago
Quoted from kguenther6:

My callouts are somewhat garbled as well. I rebuilt my sound board but it didn't improve it any. I haven't had time to look any further into it.
For the 15 second clock the scoring is multiplied by either 2x or 3x depending on which is lit (left is 2x and right is 3x). If both are lit then it is multiplied by 5x.

Check the volume pots on the sound board and inside the coin door. Turn the knobs back and forth several times to break up any seized crud that might have worked itself in it over the years. Did you replace the pots on the board when you recapped it? My kit came with new pots.

3 weeks later
#926 4 years ago

If you want to make your own decals (or can't find them) use peel/stick shipping labels, print off high res pictures of the spinner (to size) and cut them to size. Clean off your current spinner with rubbing alcohol, apply decal, then apply a piece of mylar over the decal. Here are the images via google:
https://www.google.com/search?q=flash+gordon+spinner+decal&rlz=1C1GTPM_enUS748US748&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiZqcKD9cjjAhVECKwKHcdOB44Q_AUIEigC&biw=1920&bih=937#imgrc=n8qrVrqAghMNDM:

1 month later
#945 4 years ago
Quoted from Cliffy:

Thanks to doghouse for stepping up to loan me his originals. Mine will never rust since I've made them in mirror polished stainless (of course!)
As of 8/19 I do not have a price yet as I havent yet been billed from my laser guys nor the stainless supplier. They do not normally polish to #8 finish in this gauge so it took a while to get and was a small batch order. Bending without marring is the really tedious part of this chore but boy do they look fabulous installed[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Those look great Cliff! Is there any way to offer them in the "brushed" variety for those of us not looking for the mirror finish?

1 week later
#968 4 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

My FG sometimes turns on the High Score light while I am still playing. It works properly during attract mode after a game finishes and is off during the game as it should be. Just sometimes I will notice it is on during a game, I have only noticed it happening on Ball 3. Is this normal?

No, it's not normal. Do you have LEDs and is it ghosting?

#973 4 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

Yes they are LEDs, but this is full on bright, not ghosting. Like I say, it works normally at other times.

I wonder if the associated SCR is starting to go. But normally, when an SCR goes bad, the lamp doesn't light at all. I would look to see if the socket is getting grounded by a stray wire or something else. I would probably then start looking at the board, checking the header pin and connector, testing the SCR for that lamp. Maybe try putting in an incandescent bulb to see if it happens.

#975 4 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

I am using an Alltek board for the lighting and it is quite new. I would need to check if that light actually operates using the Auxiliary lamp board which is original.

Yeah, I don't have the schematic in front of me. The Alltek shouldn't have any problems but you never know.

3 weeks later
#990 4 years ago
Quoted from zahner:

I have a question regarding an issue with my FG's Pinpoint Bally Flash Gordon AS-2518-62 Strobe Board. I have had issues with it with various MPU boards since I installed the strobe a couple of years ago. Initially, I had it set up with the original MPU, and it worked, but did some weird stuff. The game sometimes wouldn't immediately boot, and the voicing and some sound effects from the sound board would not always work properly [half finished phrasing, starting in the middle of phrasing, sounds dropping off or starting in odd spots]. I replaced that MPU with an older Alltek MPU, and it was dodgy too, but other than the sound being kind of wacked out, it seemed to work. With both MPUs, if the strobe was unplugged, the game functioned perfectly.
Well, the Alltek MPU went spuds up and the good folks at Alltek did me a solid and replaced the board with a brand new one for a very reasonable fee. When I installed it - it would not boot at all. The LED on the board just kept flashing over and over, but no boot/start. Double checked voltage, and it was all good [all boards except the sound board are Alltek]. I unplugged the Pinpoint Strobe Board, and everything worked flawlessly. I kind of went over this before with the Alltek people and the Pinpoint folks, but they could not figure it out. Given the fact that the strobe messed with both the Bally and Alltek MPUs, it seems the issue is with the strobe or the machine [switch or something?]
Thoughts?

It sounds like the problem is with the strobe board. If you can get your hands on a known functioning strobe board to test, this would be your answer.

#991 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Hi all. I have a possible deal to get a FG. Everything works except the switch under the single drop target on the upper playfield -- this is the drop target that leads back to the shooter lane. The target goes up and down fine, but the switch that registers points sometimes causes resets of the game. The current owner adjusted the switch so it no longer registers points, leaving the drop target otherwise functional.
My question is if I leave it this way, am I just depriving myself from certain points by hitting the target. Or, is this preventing me from completing some major section of the game, like achieving a necessary bonus or 2x scoring or something? I don't understand the rules enough to know.
Thanks in advance for the help.

You arent missing out on anything, but it would be a good idea to find out why the scoring switch is causing resets. I wouldn't let this keep me from buying the game if you have been looking or can get it for a good price.

#1000 4 years ago

1000th post! "Try again, Earthling."

1 week later
#1023 4 years ago
Quoted from solderboy:

I think I need more than fonts.... here’s a few pics of the play field that had been touched up by a previous owner. I think I’ll start my own thread to document this. It’s gonna take some time to rescue this game![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Ooof. That looks terrible. This is a case where I would have preferred a worn original, vs this awful "touch up" job. This may be one case where I would actually go with a hard top, in lieu of what you have there. I'm still holding out for a CPR digital print or rerun.

#1026 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

That’s a perfect example of why I’ll never attempt to do my own touch ups.

I dO mY oWn ToUcH uPs aLl the TiMe! AlWaYs TuRnS oUt GrEaT!

#1029 4 years ago
Quoted from HPR:

No problem with touchups, i repainted those playfields 80% for EBD 95% for F2K and Fathom 90% of the top portion
Removed inserts, sand them flat, reglue, redo the artwork
Perfect colors match, very precise hand painted artwork, no friends can tell by naked eyes where i repaint them.
I usually also customize artwort a bit as you can see for 8BD ( colors of the balls, no dithering) and F2K ( i prefer to remove wood effect around switches, improve the artwork in my opinion)
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Some people have the knack for it. Some definitely dont! You belong in the former group. Beautiful work!

2 months later
#1092 4 years ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

I need all new switches for my Flash Gordon flippers. When I look at the switches offered from websites none of them look like the original ones that I took off. They are a lot smaller. Will, someone please help me out on this?
Thanks, Brad

If you are talking about your EOS switches, and the contacts are worn, then you will likely need to rebuild them anyways. I would suggest getting a rebuild kit from Pinball Life. You'll need 1 full kit + 1 right side kit:
https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-flipper-rebuild-kit-051980-031988.html

Here are just the EOS switches:
https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-end-of-stroke-switch-normally-closed.html

If you are referring to the cabinet flipper switches, then you'll need:

WLL-SW10A-48
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-leaf-switch-single-contact.html

and

SW-1010A-13 (IIRC)
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-leaf-switch-double-contact.html

#1094 4 years ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

Thanks for the quick reply. I bought rebuild kits from pinball resources per Vid's rebuild post. Here are the switches that came with kits. It doesn't seem like the right ones.[quoted image]

I can't remember exactly which switch style is used. I would use the same ones that were on the game prior to the rebuild. I believe you want the Normally Closed switch. I'll see what's on my game.

Can you specify which switches you're replacing?

4 months later
#1183 3 years ago
Quoted from UNCgump:

I replaced the bottom left flipper on my game, and noticed that it looked bigger than the one on the right (which seemed stuck to the point of my being unable to pry it out). The resulting space between the ball guide is smaller, so much so that the metal digs into the rubber at the top of the flip and the flipper gets stuck in place frequently. I thought I got the right parts from Marco. Advice?
[quoted image]

The right side is the wrong flipper style. That's a WMS style flipper bat . The one on the left is correct.

I would try to readjust the lane guides. They might have been moved closer to compensate for the wrong flippers.

#1188 3 years ago
Quoted from UNCgump:

I don't think I'll try to adjust. I'll take a look at the Cliffy guides and probably just order a new set. It looks like the alignment of my left one is off (probably from years of being hit by the ball), so it's probably easiest to just replace. This game had a lot of wear on it when I got it, and I've been slowly updating parts.

They look very rough and like you said, probably better off replacing the lane guides anyway. The Cliffy lane guides are a little bit longer than the factory guides, so you may end up with the same issue and might have to make some adjustments anyway.

Simple adjustments just require loosening up the 2 screws holding the lane guide in place and moving the lane guide as needed.

Also, having the Williams style bats makes me suspicious of the flipper mechs as well. Have they been swapped out?

#1190 3 years ago
Quoted from UNCgump:

I just rebuilt that entire flipper because it was both getting stuck and wouldn't hold when cradling, so all the flipper mechs are now rock solid. I can actually see an area on the rubber where the lane guide has been eating into it. How exactly do you adjust the lane guide? There seems no way to move it. There's simply a single hole each lane guide post is screwed to. No way to move up/down or laterally (a la post adjustment on modern games).
Thanks!

You can only move the lane guides as much as loosening the screw allows you to move it. 1/16-3/16 of an inch at most. Did you move the flipper plate at all? Just looking at it, it seems to be really tight to the lane guide.

When you get the new cliffy guides, you have an opportunity to enlarge the holes on the guide to allow a little bit of sliding up and down, as Yelobird mentioned doing. The other, less invasive option, is to try Titan thin flipper rubber. I have them on my game since I get a little bit of flipper hop when the ball comes down in the inlanes. They're called "low bounce standard" now.

https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=52

#1195 3 years ago

Theres something that is getting in the way with the playfield down if that's the case. Look to see what's causing the problem best you can with the playfield in the down position.

1 month later
#1294 3 years ago
Quoted from tomdrum:

Heads up. CPR repro FG PF's are getting cleared now. Look for them in couple weeks.

I'll be in on one! This is great news!

#1306 3 years ago

I'm in the camp of the original linear flippers as well, even if they're more expensive, especially since it was a $300 project and I was going to restore it.

If I bought a game with the newer mechs installed, I would 100% revert them back to the originals.

My $.02.

#1311 3 years ago
Quoted from tomdrum:

Mine is being delivered this Wednesday, can't wait. They rescreened mine after using it to verify all dimples on future PF's.

Nice! Hopefully it turned out nice.

#1318 3 years ago
Quoted from tomdrum:

It will be a "you snooze, you lose" situation. Only 30 are being produced from what I was told.

1 week later
#1340 3 years ago

I put in an order. Not worried if the colors are 100% accurate or not. They don't look bad compared to an original imo and in a game by itself, you won't be able to tell. Looking forward to doing my first swap/Resto!

#1346 3 years ago
Quoted from Llabnip1972:

Sold out this morning! That has to be a record. Try again earthling

Good thing I got my order in. Have to thank you for posting that CPR had them available. I've been good at checking their website most days, but might have missed out if not for your post. I'VE BEEN WAITING!!! lol

1 week later
#1368 3 years ago

Got my PF today!

20200827_162237 (resized).jpg20200827_162237 (resized).jpg20200827_162242 (resized).jpg20200827_162242 (resized).jpg
3 months later
#1518 3 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Okay my FG has developed an issue. Was working 100%, but now when it boots it makes the siren sound like 6 times and then just the low freq. Whaaa sound. When it was working properly it would make a two-tone Waaa, waaa sound.
Also, when I play a game, after ball one ends, it fails to increment the ball in play counter to ball 2, it does so after the second ball is ended, and then also after that for balls 2 and 3. So every game you get two "Ball 1"s. Strange.

Have you checked the easy things? Connectors, reflow solder to pins, display test, etc. Do you have an extra ball enabled at a very low score?

1 month later
#1565 3 years ago

I'm finally getting around to doing my playfield swap and there are nails hammered into the original playfield. The new playfield doesn't have any dimples for these nails. Do you think i could get away without nailing into the playfield? I would assume so since modern games don't have them.

20201224_143134 (resized).jpg20201224_143134 (resized).jpg

#1568 3 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Those are to fight trapped balls. I removed mine and have had 1 trapped ball in the 4 months since I pulled them.
It's not on location, so I don't mind an occasional hassle.

Cool. Then I will forego the nails!

Another question, I was trying to remove the flipper bats earlier. The flippers were rebuilt when i bought the game a couple years ago and are still like new. For some reason the bats would not come out! I literally needed to take my 5lb hammer and hammer them out with a punch. Any idea why that might have happened? I would have never been able to do it in-game. It was on the rotisserie so I could really hammer it down.

#1571 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Someone tightened them too much and the shaft splayed out trapping it in the pawl. It could also be that the bat didn't have the indent.
Also, you should replace the nails on the sling, not only blocks ball traps, they also hold the plastic up and prevent a really fast ball from pushing the rubber in too far, resulting in a weak sling.

I rebuilt the flippers when I got the game. Upon initial inspection, it did not look or feel like there were any burrs from me over tightening the set screws. Usually when this happens though, I can typically twist and pull the bat, and it would eventually come out with a little effort. This took some hard whacks to get it out

I rubbed the shafts with 600 grit sandpaper and they slide in/out really easily so getting them in won't be a problem. Just thought it was really odd, especially without any obvious deformation.

I'll think about adding the nails back in. There is one in front of the upper flipper also plus some other places. If I see problems, it wont be too much work to do it once the playfield is back in the game, I wouldnt think.

#1577 3 years ago

It's not close to being done yet, but just thought I'd share my bit progress with the swap.

Bottom side is waiting for the rest of the sockets I dont have and cant order until Pinball Life gets back from vacation. Then ground braid and the harness/mechs can go back in. I could start on the topside I suppose... can you guess the one thing that I was short on while the playfield was bare?

20210101_151239 (resized).jpg20210101_151239 (resized).jpg

#1580 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Nails to hammer behind the slings?

Still debating on whether or not to do that

It is "nail" like though

#1581 3 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

New Rails or did you refurb the old ones?

Refurbed original ones.

#1584 3 years ago

Ok. I'm officially stumped. I've been trying for the last hour to try to figure out where this piece goes. I neglected to take a picture of the apron assembly before I dismantled it because (famous last words) I thought it was simple enough to put back together. Can anyone provide pics of where this piece goes? I assume it has these nylon spacers involved somewhere.

20210102_151356 (resized).jpg20210102_151356 (resized).jpg20210102_151403 (resized).jpg20210102_151403 (resized).jpg20210102_151409 (resized).jpg20210102_151409 (resized).jpg

#1587 3 years ago

Thank you!

2 weeks later
#1591 3 years ago

Can someone verify for me that under the plunger gauge, there are 3 long nylon spacers that go underneath it to hold it up? 2 on the left are on the playfield under the apron and one is on the rail to the right?

#1593 3 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

White Spools / Spacers?
Yeah, two left and one on the right(rail).

Yes, the white spools. I have 2 in my hand a few posts up. Thank you!

13
#1594 3 years ago

Mostly finished with my playfield swap. I still need to make new spinner decals, and will attempt to restencil the cabinet once it warms up again, but it turned out pretty good considering all things. Not much troubleshooting afterwards, which I was happy with.

20210118_193701 (resized).jpg20210118_193701 (resized).jpg20210118_193707 (resized).jpg20210118_193707 (resized).jpg
1 month later
#1649 3 years ago
Quoted from bluebomber:

The past couple months, I've been working with the Bally / Stern Operating System (BSOS) to re-imagine Bally's Flash Gordon game code. BSOS was created by Pinside user DickHamill, and it utilizes an Arduino Nano circuit connected to the MPUs J5 connector to take over the machine. It can easily be dual-booted between the original code and the updated code with the flip of a switch, and the whole project can be built for less than $20.
I just started a thread for this here if you are interested in more information: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flash-gordon-2021-re-imagined-code-for-bally-flash-gordon-1981

Seems like a cool project. And for $20 with the ability to switch between the original and modified code, I think it's a no-brainer. Cant wait to see more!

1 month later
#1684 2 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

It's more noticeable in person than in the pic. Not a huge deal, but given how much these cost, it should be perfect.
[quoted image]

Would be worth reaching out to CPR to see if you can exchange just the top PF. It's a digital print so I would expect these types of flaws to be non-existent, as opposed to the manual silkscreened process.

Quoted from AUKraut:

Agree 110%, but if you think that's bad you should see the CPR Fathom playfields and how they star rollovers line up there.........[quoted image]

Is this a Bronze or Silver pf? If so, then it would be considered less than perfect. If it is a Gold, then yes, I would be upset. As far as I know, they didn't do digital prints of Fathom.

#1688 2 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

I imagine its on all of them
[quoted image]

I didn't notice on my CPR. I'll have to check when I get home now....

#1692 2 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Yes, CPR provided a few options. But bottom line, they only made 30 FG playfields in this batch and all sold out, so there's no replacement anytime soon.

I probably wouldn't worry about it too much. I didn't look yesterday, but I would bet that mine has the smear too. If it does, then it is what it is. Mine is already swapped, and I'm not sure it would be noticeable unless it was pointed out. But I can understand the frustration and disappointment.

#1697 2 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Wow, impressive how quickly you got the pf swap done! I've never done one before, any tips (other than take lots of pics)?

I did mine over the holiday season, and it took me about a month off/on, with a lot of time waiting for parts that I hadn't ordered beforehand. I had already gone through all of the mechs and everything was playing 100% when I first acquired the game. It was pretty much a straight transfer.

I labeled all of the lamp wiring (ie, 1K bonus, 2K bonus, etc) and installed all new lamp sockets in the new pf, so that when it was time to solder, I knew exactly which lamp the wire went to. I also installed new 5V braid for the lamps, and used the original playfield as a template. I followed it EXACTLY so that I knew that if things didn't work, that I messed up somewhere. Lo and behold, every lamp worked as intended. I had missed soldering some GI wiring, but that was easily sussed out. Use this modified wall adapter to test your GI lights
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-re-populating-playfields#post-4565582

When you unscrew all of the mechs from the playfield, and clip all of your lamp wires, slide a large piece of cardboard under everything to keep it in it's relative position. When you lift the harness/mechs away, you should be left with just the lamp sockets and braids. Once you see the entire mass come off, it doesn't feel so intimidating anymore. Go to your local Ace Hardware and get new screws, washers, etc so that you don't have to sort out and transfer the original hardware. That way if you lose some of the original hardware, you're not looking for that one screw, or one nut.

Off/on, waiting for some parts, it took about a month, with a couple hours during the weekday after work, and spending a few hours at a time on the weekends. Having all of the wiring labeled took a ton of anxiety out of it. The topside was pretty straight forward. Make sure to use washers under the pointy metal posts, and predrill EVERY hole! Get a playfield kit from Ron Kruzman and ask him to include a dremel bit for the star rollovers. A lot of clearcoat gets built up in between the star points, and you'll need to clear that out with the dremel in order for your star inserts to move freely.

Doing a second swap on Viking, it took just a couple of weekends since I had a method that was "safe" and straight forward.

Make sure the game is working 100% before doing your swap, so that way you know if you introduce a new problem, and it would be easier to troubleshoot if you knew it was working prior.

I used this picture wire for my 5V braid on Viking and it works perfectly. Can be had pretty cheap at your local hardware store.

20201226_082242 (resized).jpg20201226_082242 (resized).jpg81PLhNMiA0L._SL1431_ (resized).jpg81PLhNMiA0L._SL1431_ (resized).jpg
#1702 2 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Thanks for all the info, really helpful! Did you have any issues with the clear cracking when you pre-drilled? My friend recommended doing the sway sooner rather than later so the clear is still slightly soft and less likely to crack or chip.
Also, where did you source the replacement lamp sockets?

If you use a brand new drill bit, then you shouldn't have any clear cracking when you drill. I did my swap about 6-8 months after I got it, so I assume it was fully cured by the time I did it. If the clear does crack, that's where Kruzman's playfield kit comes into play, and yes, I had to use his kit, unfortunately. But ultimately, the worst of it is under posts and etc, so not visible when fully populated.

For lamp sockets, I got them on a website called Surplus Sales of Nebraska. The only thing with those was that they had surface rust on them, and the tabs are electrically isolated, so I had to do some extra soldering and had some sockets that had brittle bases. But I still got them all to work.

3 weeks later
#1725 2 years ago
Quoted from isJ:

Dumb question but: I own a Fathom and a Flash Gordon and rebuilt the flippers on both. The FG flippers just aren't NEARLY the strength of the Fathom. Anyone ever "upgraded the coils"? Other steps I should take bastardizing this thing?
Have already "downgraded" from linear flippers and replaced all EOS switches.

Do you have the original coils? Mine are plenty strong and plays quite fast. How is your play field? Cleaned and waxed?

1 month later
#1755 2 years ago
Quoted from WorthWhilePanda:

Hello Pinside and the Saviors of the Universe Club!
I've just purchased and brought home my first ever pin and it happens to be an FG! Overall it seems to be in pretty good shape visually, and quite good mechanically. However, the plastic on the small 2 inch flipper at the top of the playfield was cracked before I bought it. Otherwise the flipper is working just fine.
I've looked through this thread and found some suggestions on flippers for replacement however the ones I'm finding seem to have a "Screw hole" and this one clearly doesn't have that same hole. With this being my first pin ever I've never ordered or replaced any parts on a machine before and just wanted to make sure if I order a replacement plastic I don't need the shaft/shoe/etc as well.
Any help would be appreciated and if more information is needed from me I'm happy to offer it!
[quoted image]

http://www.pbresource.com/flippers.html

scroll about 1/3 of the way down.

#1757 2 years ago
Quoted from WorthWhilePanda:

Thanks for the super quick reply!
I was looking at those one, but I think I prefer the look of the Yellow (A857Y), especially with the color scheme of the game. Any chance one of those would fit or best to just stick with the exact same model?

Only the 2 inch flipper bats with no screw hole will work.

#1759 2 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Helping a friend reconnect all his connectors...Anyone have a clear diagram or pdf of the connectors so I can plug it all back together. Thx for any help.
Mike

If anything, the schematics have connector plugs with a numbered color code for each of the pins.

1 month later
#1794 2 years ago
Quoted from dluth:

Hey guys, have picked up a Flash and joined the club. Playfield is original and pretty pristine. I am going to wax the playfield - anything else I should do to protect the playfield? I plan on playing it a lot...
I’ve seen the cliffy on the lockout saucer - I don’t really like the look but is this recommended for HUO?
What about Mylar around the pops?
[quoted image]

Congrats! I would definitely consider a Cliffy around the saucer. No need for mylar around the pops. keep it clean and waxed and you should be good to go!

2 months later
#1863 2 years ago
Quoted from Heaterguy:

Re-pinned the aux driver board connector now my Flash Gordon back glass lights are flashing!

if you haven't yet, you'll want to at minimum reflow the solder on the pins on all of your boards. This will get rid of most niggling issues.

4 months later
#1902 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Jesu did a CPR swap [quoted image]

You got connections...

I'm pretty sure sure mine are closed, because I suck and this game is brutal as is.

1 week later
#1912 1 year ago

I guess I must not have known any better but FG was my first swap, and I didn't know at the time that it was any harder. I didn't have to modify any components, I ran the braid almost exactly as the original. I didn't use any of the CPR dimples to mount anything though, as I had heard they could be off...and they were.

Thinking bad now, it still wasn't too bad. A little time consuming, yes, but not enough to turn me off on it. I worked on it off/on for about 2 months I would say. I learned a lot, and it helped make the next few swaps much better. Maybe because compared to the others, it was harder

6 months later
#2038 1 year ago
Quoted from paulbaptiste:

Finishing up a playfield swap on my Flash Gordon and testing all the lights before I put it up.
I've taken a wall wart and added alligator clips to test the lighting and have a question regarding the GI.
Should the entire GI light up or are they supplied from different parts of the board? I have the majority of the lower playfield light up (nothing on the left side or upper playfield). Curious if I'm chasing ghosts or the GI is run or powered from two different areas? If it's ran from different areas, where should i test each to make sure they are completely covered? What all should light per each area?
Appreciate any guidance you can provide!

You're basically testing strings of lights when you use the wall adapter. So if you have one clip attached to one end of the braid, and one clip attached to a light further down the line, you would expect each lamp in between to light up. It's been a while since I've done my last swap but pretty sure that's how it goes.

#2042 1 year ago
Quoted from paulbaptiste:

Do you know which side should be powering the upper playfield? Or is that split L to R as well?

There should be a few "feeds" of 5V to the GI braid throughout the game. I can't remember the color wire they are (should be in the schematics) but assuming you've laid down new braid and sockets, if you test the strings independently to verify the strings work, you'll at least know that your braids are good if there are lamps that don't work after you resolder everything.

3 months later
#2154 1 year ago
Quoted from Spitfiren8:

Dimples???
[quoted image]

Never trust the dimples.

2 weeks later
#2167 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

My right lower flipper gets caught up sometimes. It’s not electrical, something in the mech is binding - like the plunger or??? Any tips on how to fix this?

Possible that the coil stop is magnetized and is holding the plunger for a couple seconds. When it happens and you turn it off, will it drop after a couple seconds or when you slap the cabinet? Had this happen on a Viking when I had it.

1 month later
#2250 11 months ago

I've been part lazy and part afraid to restencil my cabinet. This information is helpful...I may do to yet this year! I've been putting it off for a couple years now

#2255 11 months ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Has anyone powdercoated legs, ld bar, rails? I can't find any pictures in the thread.

To each their own, but I prefer the classic stainless. There are some pics floating around. I saw a gaudy red game recently (like everything was red) and I've seen black in the past as well. Not my style personally.

There are replacement rails, legs, and coindoor skins available new thankfully, if yours are beat up.

#2258 11 months ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Yeah, judging from the crickets, powdercoating doesn't seem to be too popular on this one. What about chrome plating? Has anyone done that or is that frowned upon as well?

People do chrome plating, sure. I don't care for chrome, but some people like it.

#2264 11 months ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

I think you have to remove the rails to use Pimp's. I'll find out soon enough, we will see about that idiot proofness!

I'm pretty sure you have to remove them. You'll get better results regardless. There is a Vid's guide on removing side rails. A search here on pinside will get you the thread.

#2282 10 months ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Thanks, I don't have a manual for it. Looks like the tilt bob is connected directly to the outhole.

For future reference, most classic Bally SS games have their manuals located at ipdb.org. The link that slochar posted is the page for FG that has all the manuals and schematics.

2 weeks later
#2312 10 months ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Borrowing a Flash Gordon and doing a bit of fettling on it.
What's with the 3" rubbers on the slings. They feel really loose. I put 2 1/2" titans on and they feel just right. Is this a common opinion or are they meant to be that loose?
(Sometimes manuals have errors right?)

I cant remember whats in mine, but If it feels better, them use them. I think 2 1/2 is pretty standard. Who cares what the manual says and yes, manuals have wrong info in them sometimes. I can't tell you how many times I've used a manual for a list of rubbers and end up with extras of a size, short of a size, or just end up not using a size.

#2313 10 months ago
Quoted from Vitty:

Thanks! Pinball Life has a whole 3 posts in stock in red lol. I'll have to keep an eye on when they restock.

PB Resource has both sizes in stock.

Screenshot_20230513_232706_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20230513_232706_Chrome (resized).jpg
3 weeks later
#2331 9 months ago
Quoted from Taygeta:

Anyone have recommendations for other 80s pins similar to Flash Gordon in difficulty? This might be the hardest game I've ever owned, nastier than BSD.

Not an 80s game but I would compare this with TNA in terms of feel and gameplay.

4 weeks later
#2395 8 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

I’m trying to get the stand-up target at the end of the Wood Beast in-line drop targets to award an extra ball. I nailed that sucker twice last night and I think I was only awarded points. Is this a dip switch setting on the MPU? I think I adjusted the dip switch correctly, but not sure.

SW#30 ON- 1 extra ball per ball can be collected
OFF - Only 1 extra ball per game can be collected.

I couldn't find anything about points being collected instead. Have you tried with the glass off?

#2397 8 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

FatPanda, thanks! I'm pretty sure I flipped switch #30 on last night. I'll take another look at it and also mess around with the glass off to see what happens.

I'd also check the wiring to see if it was modified to NOT award extra balls, like it was piggy backed off another switch or something like that. People do things...

2 weeks later
#2435 7 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

I worked more on my Flash Gordon lights. So I’m making a little progress each time. As a start, I tried to verify that the sockets and bulbs were working by using a jumper from the ground in the base cabinet to the tab on the lamp socket.
I resolved several problems with some burned out bulbs and a loose wire. One lamp socket was missing the spring contact thing inside the socket, so I installed a new lamp socket.
The left spinner arrow wouldn’t light up so I installed a new lamp socket and bulb and it still isn’t working when I jumper it to the ground braid in the base cabinet. I thought this bypassed the transistor? Any other thoughts on that? I guess I can try to solder the lamp socket again.

Check if you're getting 5V at the braid for that lamp.

#2438 7 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

Thanks for the tip. I thought about checking that last night, but decided I was tired and had messed with it enough for one day. I'll look into it tonight and post back.
For my better understanding, what would cause that braid to lose the 5 volts? The only thing I can think of is that it came disconnected or the wire broke someplace else under the playfield.

Yes, a break in the braid could be a potential issue but always good to eliminate the simple stuff first.

#2440 7 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

I'm enjoying working on the machine and it is getting a little better each week.

This is everything about owning these older games, or any pinball for that matter.

I, for one, will always owe thanks to the many pinsiders that have helped me in the past. They keep this hobby fun by teaching us all these little tricks and allowing us to learn from their expertise. They are best parts of Pinside!

2 months later
#2493 5 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

Is there a trick to keeping the flipper bats locked down tight with the two screws? My right flipper keeps coming loose and getting floppy/out of adjustment. I've been afraid to crank down too hard and I haven't really gotten enough leverage with my hex/allen wrench anyways.

The set screws like to go to their old spots if you're trying to tighten/loosen/readjust too many times. You may have to crank them quite a bit to get them tight enough to hold on. If not, like vec-tor suggested, might be time to replace the flipper bats.

1 month later
#2621 3 months ago

I may be in the minority but most , if not all of my settings, reset after each ball. Like someone said a long time ago, it's like playing 3 one ball games I'm lucky to break a million on a good game. I think my best is just over 2 mill.

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$ 179.00
Cabinet - Other
Pinball Pimp
Other
$ 29.00
Boards
RoyGBev Pinball
Boards
5,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Houston, TX
$ 20.00
Hardware
Volcano Pinball
Hardware
From: $ 130.00
Boards
Troxel Repair
Boards
$ 45.00
$ 18.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
Electronics
From: $ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 10.00
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Boston, MA
From: $ 4.00
Playfield - Decals
UpKick Pinball
Decals
From: $ 170.00
Displays
PinballSolutions.eu
Displays
$ 44.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
Shooter rods
$ 649.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 7.50
Hardware
Volcano Pinball
Hardware
$ 10.00
From: $ 2.99
$ 52.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
Shooter rods
From: £ 135.00
Electronics
Retro Electro Designs
Electronics
From: $ 170.00
Displays
PinballSolutions.eu
Displays
$ 20.00
Hardware
Volcano Pinball
Hardware
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
Decorations
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Berkeley Springs, WV
Hey modders!
Your shop name here

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