(Topic ID: 65903)

Flash Gordon: Saviors of the Universe Club


By TheShameGovernor

6 years ago



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#531 1 year ago
Quoted from RoyGBev:

In the club now! Got a nearly ready to play project! Look at the drop targets: Two Dolly Partons, a Paragon, and a...well then two Paragons.
As much as I want to play it, I have about five projects ahead of it. Willing to bring to TPF: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/2018-texas-pinball-festival-maybe-for-sale-thread/page/7#post-4276994

Now I'm nearly in the club now! I'm buying this machine Hopefully it's not much worse than it looks

#533 1 year ago

It'll be a fun journey I hope. I have found that I really enjoy rehabbing these machines, as I've only started collecting over the last year, and this is probably the worst machine that I'll be acquiring. Still debating on doing full cab paint, since it looks easy enough...but what I think might be easy, and reality are two totally different things! First things first, get the game home and playing 100%!

#535 1 year ago
Quoted from Toasterdog:

I really have to get my FG up and running correctly. I restored the cabinet and had someone do a playfield swap for me (after looking for a CPR replacement for what seemed like an eternity) My problem was when I was finishing the cabinet up I accidentally plugged the strobe transformer into the backbox receptacle and vice versa. Weird these are next to each other and keyed the same . The game plays almost 100%, but I have no backbox lights and that means no sound either. I love Flash Gordon, but the sound is a must IMO.
When I did my oops moment and powered the game on I saw a small poof of smoke from the #1 display area. I had new displays ready to replace anyway and they currently work, but it didn't fix my no backbox lights issue. MY strobe board is new and worked, but it doesn't seem to do anything either. F2 blows on start up. I have looked for obvious signs of failure but don't see anything out of the ordinary. Anyway, its tough to look at this beauty and not play it. The CPR PF is awesome by the way, the neon colors really react to the blacklight in my arcade too.

That's purty...I wish I could help

1 week later
#538 1 year ago

Took possession of my machine yesterday! It needs a good bit of TLC; no key for the back box so I'm going to drill it out today. The head was detached, so I haven't had a chance to power it up yet. It's got years and years of dirt and grime all over it and the upper playfield has quite a bit of wear. The lower playfield looks good from what I can see. Needs new drop targets, as there's an amalgamation of other bally drops. Will get the full treatment!

#540 1 year ago
Quoted from Captive_Ball:

Pictures or it didn't happen

Well, my friend. You're in for a treat!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flash-gordon-a-shop-out-log

1 week later
#541 1 year ago

Finally got done with 99% of the shop out and got a few games in. I can see why this game is so highly regarded! It's awesome! Can't wait to sort out the last few things and get it in with the rest of the lineup!

#542 1 year ago

Question on flipper alignment. Do you guys have the flippers in line with the ball guide or do you have it centered on the hole? Mine are centered on the hole right now, but it feels a little too low. I did order new cliffy ball guides so that may have an impact on it. It might be a while until they arrive.

#544 1 year ago

I've got quite a bit of hop on mine, but it's obvious the guides are very worn down. I'm thinking Titan thin flipper rubbers will help too. I'll try to keep the flippers in-line with the ball guides. It feels too low as it is right now.

#546 1 year ago

Cliff is a couple months behind so if you want them, you better put the order in soon!

I was asking about the flipper alignment because my Paragon flippers are aligned with the hole and they feel a lot better than Flash Gordon does so I was a little confused.

#549 1 year ago
Quoted from Captive_Ball:

I installed the modified Cliffy guides and used the thinner flipper rubbers a while back in my FG. It did help with the flipper hop, but It didn't eliminate it.

I've seen HEP use a dowel wrapped with sandpaper to make the hole where the flipper bushing comes through the playfield just a tad bigger to help with ball hop. Might something to think about. Playing with ball hop is the worst! I can be an on-the-fly player sometimes, so that smooth transition is a must for me.

#551 1 year ago
Quoted from Captive_Ball:

I'll have to take a look at that...thanks for the info. Do you happen to have a link to that post or tell me which thread to look for it?

Yeah man. Right here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/taxi-2018-hep/page/10#post-4207373

I asked about doing it on TWD, since it is is pretty normal for that game. But thankfully, it was remedied by Titan's thin flipper rubber.

#552 1 year ago

So I aligned the flippers so the hole is lined up with the bottom edge of the flipper, instead of being centered on the flipper tip, and it plays MUCH better now. That alignment happens to line up the flipper with the ball guides. Next question is, what do you have your Dip Switches set at? I started off with all "Conservative" setting but then moved them to "Recommended Settings" in the manual. Thinking about moving them back.

Also, what slope do you have yours set at? Mine is right around 6.5 right now, but thinking about going all the way up in the back, or to about 7.5? I like it fast and deadly. No mercy!

#554 1 year ago

Whatever the recommended settings are in the manual. I'll get a pic of it when i get home, or you could look it up on IPDB.

Quoted from wm6929:

thought 6.5 was a bit too much for the early SS games.
What are your dip settings?

#556 1 year ago

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#557 1 year ago

With the dipswitch ON, it retains lit shots from ball to ball. If it is off, it does not, so making it harder to get 2X playfield, Lit drop targets, etc.

I've learned that over that last couple days, even with the switches on, I can barely break 1 mil. that 1.5 Mil game I had must have been a fluke...

#559 1 year ago

Does anyone know if Flash Gordon uses an extra long shooter rod than other games? I bought a new rod from PBR but it is much shorter than the old one. The new on is on the left.

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2 weeks later
#564 1 year ago

Thanks! Sent him a PM about selling since he's listing specifically for a trade.

#568 1 year ago
Quoted from timab2000:

I sent him a message over a week ago, does not respond for some reason. Why do people do that???

There was "sale pending" when I looked last. Also, he wanted quite a bit for the PF, so i politely declined

#570 1 year ago

1750

#572 1 year ago

Yeah, that's why I passed

4 weeks later
#587 1 year ago
Quoted from Spitfiren8:

So I pulled the under pf fuse and the game still resets if the left pop switch is activated, this is the only switch that causes a reset. Under pf wiring looks fine.
I have a feeling i need to repin all my connectors. Can i swap in my Medusa mpu to troubleshoot or will that cause any issues? I already slaved in the solenoid driver from medusa and the same issues were persistant.

If you disconnect the cabinet, coin door, and pf slam tilt switches, does triggering the left pop bumper still cause a reset? Is there a diode connected on the pop bumper switches?

#589 1 year ago

Maybe quench has an idea? The wiring on the switch looks fine to me. I'm wondering if there's any battery damage to the MPU or something like that?

#593 1 year ago
Quoted from Tallon:

No one is going to mention the new y5f cap that’s marked 12v? Ok I’ll keep watching

I'm pretty sure those are all original as I swapped a bunch out of my own game due to phantom switch hits.

3 weeks later
#605 1 year ago

Looks great! I have two Ballys that could use new paint. The only problem I have with FG is if I repaint, the cabinet and backglass would look minty, but the beat pf and yellowed/bent plastics would look a little out of place

#607 1 year ago
Quoted from comment23:

Sounds like a Hardtop would be in your future *wink* *wink*

My pf is so-so
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flash-gordon-a-shop-out-log#post-4298401

1 week later
#611 1 year ago
Quoted from radium:

Does anyone repair the original Bally strobe boards? Mine never has worked and had the world's largest wasp nest on it when I bought it. Would rather repair the original than get a reproduction board if possible.

What's wrong with it? Are the traces bad? Connectors bad? Have you tried a new flasher bulb?

#617 1 year ago

Waiting for the PFs to get re-released too!

2 months later
#634 1 year ago
Quoted from radium:

Was on bigdaddy-enterprises.com and came across this. Looks a lot different than my original board!
[quoted image]

For $100, this person will come to your house, turn on a flash light, and cover the lens repeatedly for the strobing effect. Of course, only when you're playing Flash Gordon. For times outside of actual play, you will have to negotiate your terms.

#636 1 year ago
Quoted from radium:

That's pretty cool, what do I feed her?

Cigarettes and Jack Daniels

4 months later
#658 10 months ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Starting to order some parts for my FG. I will be rebuilding the three flippers with kits from Pinballlife. I don't find any drop target rebuild kits around, but mine obviously need work. Does anyone know which coil sleeves are used for the drop target coils? They look to be a larger diameter than "usual". I have not taken one apart yet to measure. Prefer to order from Pinballlife if possible since I have a sizable cart started.

They must have recently just added rebuild kits for this era game. When I did my Ballys, they didn't have them...When I shop out this era game, I usually go to pbresource.com as they have more of the parts needed for these older games. For the drop target coil sleeves, I believe you can use the large diameter sleeve WLL-03-7068. Check out pics here: http://www.pbresource.com/coilsleeve.html

I'm not sure the pinball life has this diameter sleeve, but you can always email Terry to ask him.

1 month later
#674 9 months ago
Quoted from epeabs:Underneath is completely populated, and topside is almost complete. Rebuilt all the drop targets, flippers, coil sleeves in everything.

Did you leave the bottom side populated when you stripped and sanded the topside? Does yours have cracked inserts and did you replace them?

#676 9 months ago
Quoted from epeabs:

I left the bottom 80% populated. I removed the drops The Flipper assemblies the slingshots. I also had a donor play field that I switched out the entire light sockets due to rust. In hindsight, I should have just used the other Playfield. But it's too late now. I also had to remount my flippers because they had been moved because of hogged out holes, and the slingshots with the same way. I replaced all of the clear inserts on the play field because they were all cracked and crazed and once the new ones were installed I buffed them all out instead of clearing.

Thanks. I've contemplated getting a hard top or waiting for a CPR rerun. It might be a LONG while before CPR does their digital printing rerun. I know the FG hardtops are limited in number, so I may have to make that decision sooner rather than later, if any are still available. The inserts on my game are cracking/crazing as well, so if I go this route, I will probably have to replace them all before sanding the playfield down.

#678 9 months ago
Quoted from radium:

I mentioned replacing my inserts in another thread and was told the crazing is totally normal. Haven't decided yet if I will replace them anyway. Also haven't checked if all the colors/sizes are available anywhere.

I think for the most part you could probably go with clear inserts and colored LEDs to match the original. I don't think there are any "special" inserts, though I can't remember off the top of my head.

1 week later
#688 8 months ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Well I'm still moving forward with completion of FG. A few current issues I'm trying to work through. I keep blowing F5 fuse on the power supply. It will not blow if the playfield connector is not installed. Once installed it didn't instantly blow the fuse. I thought I had it solved when I hit the right flipper and the fuse blew. So I installed another fuse and had the playfield lifted. I turned on the machine and once it booted the fuse blew. So maybe not specifically related to the right flipper. But I'm assuming something grounded do to the playfield being in the upright position. I've attached a photo of my right flipper assembly. Anyone see any issues with wiring?
[quoted image]

There's a way to set up a breaker so that you're not blowing through fuses so quickly (pun intended). You'll have to look up what to get and how to set it up, but would be worth the effort to help troubleshoot.

1 week later
#703 8 months ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Where can I find a replacement flipper for the upper right smaller flipper (I think 2 inches)? Also, where can I find a rebuild kit for the same? Thank You in Advance

Pbresource should have everything you need.

#707 8 months ago
Quoted from blowback1976:

Sorry, meant the wire guides before the metal flipper ones.

This thread may be helpful
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wire-ball-guide-help

#710 8 months ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Working through a couple small issues with my FG. All my GI is working with the exception of these four bulbs. They flash on upon startup, but then they all go out at the same time. When I check voltage compared to other GI, all four read differently than anything else. Any thoughts is far as a direction to troubleshoot?
[quoted image]

Have you checked the wired connections on all of them? They might be wired in a chain, and if something "upstream" is loose, it may affect the bulbs "downstream."

#713 8 months ago
Quoted from blowback1976:

Are those the ones under the Ming plastics? If so, they only light up during certain times during play. That's why they turn on when first powered up. You should also see them cycle during attract.

If they are controlled lamps, they should work under test mode. If not, then they should be lit as GI. Different approaches depending in what kind of lamps they are. I cant remember off hand which ones they are but knowing that would help troubleshooting.

#720 8 months ago
Quoted from epeabs:

The Ming lights are fine. But working through a couple other small electrical gremlins. With the machine sitting in attract mode, if you trigger the switch for the saucer, the solenoid will engage. The other strange occurrence is the single drop target in the upper playfield, again while in attract mode, manually dropping the target has sometimes credited a game. Also once a game has been credited, sometimes hitting the right flipper will score 10000 points and create sound. I've traced wires under the playfield, but so far, have not found any that are crossed or touching or chafed. Not quite sure of a direction to troubleshoot in after looking at wires.

Check your switches. If you're getting a credit, I would suspect the credit switches in the coin door may not be adjusted correctly. If you're getting points, there's a switch that is gapped too closely and the vibrations are causing the switch to make contact.

1 week later
#740 8 months ago
Quoted from Andyzola87:

Finally finished the hardtop install, now just putting everything back together after 2 years of being torn apart. The clear inserts look awesome with the hardtop
[quoted image]

I'm still trying to hold out for a CPR re-release, but that does look good. The problem for me is that, it would be playing on a plastic surface instead of a cleared wood surface, as I don't particularly care for playing on playfield protectors.

2 weeks later
#758 7 months ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Did some painting today!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice! I gotta do this to mine too. Mine is a nice pink just like your was.

#759 7 months ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

I have a CPR Flash Gordon playfield I bought in 2013. I never got around to installing it, and now getting rid of all pinball stuff. Does anyone know what this could sell for?
Thanks,
Brad

I'm interested in buying it from you. Let me know!

#761 7 months ago

You guys posting cabinet restores makes me want to do mine!

#772 7 months ago

For you guys painting cabs...what playfield restoration did you go with. Hardtop? CPR? NOS? None?

#778 7 months ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

CAUTION!!!!
Do not use Molotow Gold Dollar over Rustoleum Gloss Black!!!!!!!!
I just found out the hard way[quoted image]

Damn! That sucks!

1 week later
#806 7 months ago

It's the common "Bally Brick." If you hit the drop target too hard, it'll bounce right off like nothing happened. Happens in a lot of games though, not just Bally.

#834 7 months ago
Quoted from Jappie:

Hi fellow FG owners,
I've just received the new drop targets that I ordered on Ebay from Classic Arcades.
I was under the impression that these were supposed to be hot stamped, but the ones I received have decals on them. The ones I ordered for my Fireball II were actually hot stamped.
Does anybody know the story behind this?
[quoted image][quoted image]

If the seller (and auction) claimed that they are hot stamped and they showed up like this, I would have a case opened for misrepresenting the items and getting a refund. Agreed with madmax541 I always buy classic repro parts from pbresource. They are hot stamped.

#839 7 months ago
Quoted from Jappie:

Thanks for the tip. I might do that. Thing is, the ad doesn't specifically say they are hot stamped. I assume they would be, because the ad does say this:
CLICK HERE TO SEE A VIDEO OF OUR STATE OF THE ART HOT STAMPER IN ACTION
...and because the bumper caps I once bought for my Bally Playboy from this seller were actually hot stamped.
I asked the seller through Ebay if I've made a wrong assumption. Will let you know the reply.

ebay.com link » Bally Flash Gordon Pinball Machine Drop Target Set

Yeah, I just saw that. It is very misleading to state that you have a hot stamper (In action) but that they didn't state specifically that the targets were hot stamped. The assumption is there. At 50+6 shipping, and a negative feedback, I would pursue a refund and get the real thing from PB resource. They are $4.00 each plus shipping from Steve. Cheaper and the real deal.

#840 7 months ago
Quoted from Jappie:

Good to know. Next time, PBR it shall be. Have they updated their payment options already? I remember it being kind of a hassle to order from them from overseas.

They still do it old school. phone or email order, pay them by check once you receive the goods.

#852 7 months ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Are you giving your machines steroids for a competitive advantage? JK, no clue what your problem is, hope it is resolved soon.

The saucer, when kicking the ball to the upper playfield, is hitting the glass.

#856 7 months ago
Quoted from zahner:

Okay - nobody will like my solution, but I had the same frustrating issue [it was just the opposite direction - a mighty fling into the pop bumper] and the spring thing didn't work, the tab thing didn't work, none of the quick fixes worked - except one. I was going to put in a weaker coil, but as a stop-gap until I got around to that, I rummaged around and found a coil stop that had a much deeper reach than the stock one on the mechanism. I could not tell you what machine the replacement stop was from, it was just in a bag of old nasty goodies, but it worked, and it worked three years ago when I was rebuilding my then newly purchased FG, and I have long since abandoned the thought of messing with replacing the coil. It has for three years been very nicely popping out exactly as it should. it was a very mechanical,low tech way to restrict the throw of the plunger that has had no side effects as far as I know.

I think it's a great solution. It might be that the original issue is a worn/depleted coil stop. A fresh or longer coil stop will most certainly shorten the throw of the arms, and I think it is a much better solution and any of the other you mentioned.

2 weeks later
#867 6 months ago
Quoted from Jappie:

For those interested: Classic Arcades stopped communicating. I issued a dispute on Paypal, to which they didn't reply either. Paypal now gave me a full refund for receiving an inferior product. Sad that things have to go this way, but at least justice is served. Or something.

It's a small victory. Make sure you leave the negative feedback and a 1-star review on the item, so that future buyers will know that the targets are not hot stamped, and that there are other places that offer a genuine replacement. We don't need these kinds of vendors in the hobby.

3 weeks later
#885 5 months ago
Quoted from Lysurgeon:

In the club. God damn, i love pinball...[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks like it needs a fuse

#893 5 months ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

Back in the club!
Picked up a local game that is far from perfect but still a fun player. Perfect backglass but whoever maintained this game used whatever drop targets they could find as I think only two have the correct design. The strobe lamp needs some help as well. . . almost forgot how much I liked the callouts on this game!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome! You gonna do a restore on this one? Seems to look in pretty good shape from what I can tell!

#896 5 months ago

I'm at conservative settings for everything, except for the upper drop targets, which carry over from ball to ball. Even then, I rarely ever drop a full lit set. I think most people will say set it to conservative for everything. I've been too lazy

#904 5 months ago
Quoted from QuietEarp:

I asked the question because it seems like the main element that changes between 1979 and 1980 in Bally games is the carry over of progression ball to ball. It is weird that people seem to play FG (one of the hardest games already) on the hardest settings (conservative) which does not carry over the progress.
After realizing that most FGs I have played have been on conservative settings I figured I would ask the question of the club!
It seems like I would prefer to have progress saved ball to ball, but I didn't want to be the one person who did so!

Doesnt really matter if others do or not, as long as you find enjoyment out of it!

#913 4 months ago
Quoted from kguenther6:

My callouts are somewhat garbled as well. I rebuilt my sound board but it didn't improve it any. I haven't had time to look any further into it.
For the 15 second clock the scoring is multiplied by either 2x or 3x depending on which is lit (left is 2x and right is 3x). If both are lit then it is multiplied by 5x.

Check the volume pots on the sound board and inside the coin door. Turn the knobs back and forth several times to break up any seized crud that might have worked itself in it over the years. Did you replace the pots on the board when you recapped it? My kit came with new pots.

3 weeks later
#926 4 months ago

If you want to make your own decals (or can't find them) use peel/stick shipping labels, print off high res pictures of the spinner (to size) and cut them to size. Clean off your current spinner with rubbing alcohol, apply decal, then apply a piece of mylar over the decal. Here are the images via google:
https://www.google.com/search?q=flash+gordon+spinner+decal&rlz=1C1GTPM_enUS748US748&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiZqcKD9cjjAhVECKwKHcdOB44Q_AUIEigC&biw=1920&bih=937#imgrc=n8qrVrqAghMNDM:

1 month later
#945 87 days ago
Quoted from Cliffy:

Thanks to doghouse for stepping up to loan me his originals. Mine will never rust since I've made them in mirror polished stainless (of course!)
As of 8/19 I do not have a price yet as I havent yet been billed from my laser guys nor the stainless supplier. They do not normally polish to #8 finish in this gauge so it took a while to get and was a small batch order. Bending without marring is the really tedious part of this chore but boy do they look fabulous installed[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Those look great Cliff! Is there any way to offer them in the "brushed" variety for those of us not looking for the mirror finish?

1 week later
#968 77 days ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

My FG sometimes turns on the High Score light while I am still playing. It works properly during attract mode after a game finishes and is off during the game as it should be. Just sometimes I will notice it is on during a game, I have only noticed it happening on Ball 3. Is this normal?

No, it's not normal. Do you have LEDs and is it ghosting?

#973 72 days ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

Yes they are LEDs, but this is full on bright, not ghosting. Like I say, it works normally at other times.

I wonder if the associated SCR is starting to go. But normally, when an SCR goes bad, the lamp doesn't light at all. I would look to see if the socket is getting grounded by a stray wire or something else. I would probably then start looking at the board, checking the header pin and connector, testing the SCR for that lamp. Maybe try putting in an incandescent bulb to see if it happens.

#975 72 days ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

I am using an Alltek board for the lighting and it is quite new. I would need to check if that light actually operates using the Auxiliary lamp board which is original.

Yeah, I don't have the schematic in front of me. The Alltek shouldn't have any problems but you never know.

3 weeks later
#990 50 days ago
Quoted from zahner:

I have a question regarding an issue with my FG's Pinpoint Bally Flash Gordon AS-2518-62 Strobe Board. I have had issues with it with various MPU boards since I installed the strobe a couple of years ago. Initially, I had it set up with the original MPU, and it worked, but did some weird stuff. The game sometimes wouldn't immediately boot, and the voicing and some sound effects from the sound board would not always work properly [half finished phrasing, starting in the middle of phrasing, sounds dropping off or starting in odd spots]. I replaced that MPU with an older Alltek MPU, and it was dodgy too, but other than the sound being kind of wacked out, it seemed to work. With both MPUs, if the strobe was unplugged, the game functioned perfectly.
Well, the Alltek MPU went spuds up and the good folks at Alltek did me a solid and replaced the board with a brand new one for a very reasonable fee. When I installed it - it would not boot at all. The LED on the board just kept flashing over and over, but no boot/start. Double checked voltage, and it was all good [all boards except the sound board are Alltek]. I unplugged the Pinpoint Strobe Board, and everything worked flawlessly. I kind of went over this before with the Alltek people and the Pinpoint folks, but they could not figure it out. Given the fact that the strobe messed with both the Bally and Alltek MPUs, it seems the issue is with the strobe or the machine [switch or something?]
Thoughts?

It sounds like the problem is with the strobe board. If you can get your hands on a known functioning strobe board to test, this would be your answer.

#991 50 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Hi all. I have a possible deal to get a FG. Everything works except the switch under the single drop target on the upper playfield -- this is the drop target that leads back to the shooter lane. The target goes up and down fine, but the switch that registers points sometimes causes resets of the game. The current owner adjusted the switch so it no longer registers points, leaving the drop target otherwise functional.
My question is if I leave it this way, am I just depriving myself from certain points by hitting the target. Or, is this preventing me from completing some major section of the game, like achieving a necessary bonus or 2x scoring or something? I don't understand the rules enough to know.
Thanks in advance for the help.

You arent missing out on anything, but it would be a good idea to find out why the scoring switch is causing resets. I wouldn't let this keep me from buying the game if you have been looking or can get it for a good price.

#1000 46 days ago

1000th post! "Try again, Earthling."

1 week later
#1023 35 days ago
Quoted from solderboy:

I think I need more than fonts.... here’s a few pics of the play field that had been touched up by a previous owner. I think I’ll start my own thread to document this. It’s gonna take some time to rescue this game![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Ooof. That looks terrible. This is a case where I would have preferred a worn original, vs this awful "touch up" job. This may be one case where I would actually go with a hard top, in lieu of what you have there. I'm still holding out for a CPR digital print or rerun.

#1026 34 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

That’s a perfect example of why I’ll never attempt to do my own touch ups.

I dO mY oWn ToUcH uPs aLl the TiMe! AlWaYs TuRnS oUt GrEaT!

#1029 32 days ago
Quoted from HPR:

No problem with touchups, i repainted those playfields 80% for EBD 95% for F2K and Fathom 90% of the top portion
Removed inserts, sand them flat, reglue, redo the artwork
Perfect colors match, very precise hand painted artwork, no friends can tell by naked eyes where i repaint them.
I usually also customize artwort a bit as you can see for 8BD ( colors of the balls, no dithering) and F2K ( i prefer to remove wood effect around switches, improve the artwork in my opinion)
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Some people have the knack for it. Some definitely dont! You belong in the former group. Beautiful work!

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