(Topic ID: 183206)

American Pinball Houdini thread

By lllvjr

7 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

41 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #145 Houdini Pinball initial flyer Posted by HighProtein (7 years ago)

Post #184 Initial reveal at TPF Posted by SilverballNut (7 years ago)

Post #190 Introductory Price of Houdini Posted by 1iblind (7 years ago)

Post #198 Initial Pictures of Machine Posted by lllvjr (7 years ago)

Post #229 Playfield Close-Up Pics Posted by bigd1979 (7 years ago)

Post #284 Machine feature details Posted by rosh (7 years ago)

Post #312 More feature details Posted by rosh (7 years ago)

Post #385 Double switch lane picture Posted by pinballrockstar (7 years ago)

Post #420 Pinball show appearance schedule for Houdini Posted by rosh (6 years ago)

Post #434 Houdini pics from Allentown show Posted by PinballSTAR (6 years ago)


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-1
#13109 2 years ago

Optimiser Australian voltage is 240V @50Hz for single phase ... 415V between phases for 3 phase..

#13114 2 years ago

Optimiser Thanks for your post. Interesting that Tasmania is running 230V the same as New Zealand. However ..

It doesn't make any difference with a SMPS, switched mode power supply, as it can handle a very wide range of AC input voltages and provides a tightly regulated output by its design. The way it works is by rectifying the AC input voltage which is stored in a capacitor. A DC supply of 150 to 400V is obtained. Next a high frequency transformer which is small, is switched using "transistors". The output of the HF transformer is again rectified and smoothed with capacitors to obtain the output voltage. Voltage regulation is obtained by feeding back the output voltage to the switching "transistors" which vary the width, PWM, of the DC pulses going in to the HF transformer. Regulation is almost instantaneous but extra capacitance on the output is better. There's limited space in the SMPS for large capacitors.

4 weeks later
#13181 2 years ago

A 5V switched mode power supply with 5 Amps or more will get you running again. However, contact API to ship you one ASAP.

1 week later
#13235 2 years ago

It looks and sounds like the 12V power supply is cycling on and off. I would suggest you contact Dave brenna98 at AP to arrange a replacement.

1 week later
#13302 2 years ago

The 5V power supply has failed I think. Contact Dave at AP brenna98 for a resolution and I would suggest that a service ticket in opened on the AP website.

#13304 2 years ago

The top of the left hand capacitor has a bulging top. It is defective . Stuffed. This power supply needs a new capacitor, 2200uF at 16V but 25V would be better. There's room for a larger capacitor. Check and replace any fuses if necessary.

#13308 2 years ago

Harmonics to infinity are definitely great capacitor killers.

#13310 2 years ago

Yes, its the RHS one. Same value. Red wires are 5V, yellow is 12V, brown is 48V, black is 0V or the return. Make sure you soder the capacitors the correct way around. The wide arrow on the capacitor with the dash on it is the negative. There are symbols on the circuit board as well.

#13323 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

So this is something that’s inevitable? Should we all just proactively replace those caps (or at least have them ordered)? Or more case by case basis?

More on a case by case basis but it wouldn't hurt to have a couple of 2200uF at 25V, capacitors handy. They are fairly inexpensive, a few dollars.
Also I'd suggest a couple of MOSFET driver transistors IRF540N that drive all the coils in the machine. Again, only a few dollars but handy to have.

Low resistance, ESR electrolytic capacitors, ( green colored), are slightly more expensive, have a longer life, but are far superior in handling ripple currents that are in high current sections of a power supply.

2 months later
#13598 2 years ago

Electrolytic Capacitors and Stuff.

Electrolytic capacitors don't like high speed switching. Diodes and transistors.

They dissipate a bit of heat as well because the dielectric is not perfect, electrically. As the dielectric dries out, the capacitance reduces substantially looking more like an open circuit to the rest of the circuit. In other instances you get a breakdown of the dielectric causing an ever increasing runaway short circuit current, causing fuses to blow if present, a bulging can or a small explosion in the can, blowing it to smithereens, and causing much consternation among those present !

To prevent breakdown failure of the dielectric, you can thicken it (higher voltage rating capacitor), increase the surface area between electrodes to dissipate the heat (higher voltage rating capacitor) and prevent it heating it the first place by using dark green capacitors (low Equivalent Series Resistance, ESR) . These guys are great at handling high speed switching with little heat generation and hence longevity.

Hope this helps with understanding capacitors a bit more.

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