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After a disaster in our datacenter took down our server, we are now running Pinside on a brand new server. However, things may not work as expected as we are still polishing the playfield and adjusting some switches! We might be switching to maintenance mode a few times. Please see this forum topic for more info.

(Topic ID: 183206)

American Pinball Houdini thread


By lllvjr

4 years ago

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#12401 46 days ago
Quoted from Osro:

Where can I acquire one of these? They're not selling them on the website. The only PS I see there is the 48V upgrade that I already have... If anybody can give me the manufacturer and part number of the new single unit PS I'd appreciate it.

If you are interested, give them a call. They have many parts that are not listed.

#12402 46 days ago

Where can I acquire one of these? They're not selling them on the website. The only PS I see there is the 48V upgrade that I already have... If anybody can give me the manufacturer and part number of the new single unit PS I'd appreciate it.

brenna98 ?

#12403 45 days ago

So I reached out to the folks at Antek about the part that failed, and they told me they'd just send me a new one. No questions asked. Hopefully this gets my situation resolved! Thats some top notch customer service.

#12404 45 days ago
Quoted from Osro:

So I reached out to the folks at Antek about the part that failed, and they told me they'd just send me a new one. No questions asked. Hopefully this gets my situation resolved! Thats some top notch customer service.

Wow! That's amazing

#12405 44 days ago

Sorry if this isn't the place to post this, but I'm new at all this.

I bought a Houdini NIB right before the lockdowns started last year. Everything's been more-or-less fine until a few months ago when I got a switch error notification on the menu screen.

Diagnostics menu shows the trunk lid and tilt in red. What this means practically is that the trunk lid doesn't open to lock multiball, and the subway lock release doesn't work either. So you can't start mutliball, and all the balls eventually end up locked in the subway.

I ran coil tests, and sure enough the trunk lid and the subway release won't fire when tested. All the coils marked A6-B1-0 and up will not fire when tested.

So, as a new owner with no way of getting someone over to my house to help, where do I begin to troubleshoot this? The coil diagram and so forth in the manual means nothing to me. Is there someplace I can go that would explain that at least?

I really have no idea what to do, and I am a complete beginner at pinball repair, so any help at all would be much appreciated. Thanks.

#12406 44 days ago

At first i would check the fuses, the most of them should be located under the playfield. Just be sure they are not blown...

As a beginner you may will have some really good Information in that video :

Its from a hotwheels but its similar.

#12407 44 days ago
Quoted from Thwacko:

Sorry if this isn't the place to post this, but I'm new at all this.
I bought a Houdini NIB right before the lockdowns started last year. Everything's been more-or-less fine until a few months ago when I got a switch error notification on the menu screen.
Diagnostics menu shows the trunk lid and tilt in red. What this means practically is that the trunk lid doesn't open to lock multiball, and the subway lock release doesn't work either. So you can't start mutliball, and all the balls eventually end up locked in the subway.
I ran coil tests, and sure enough the trunk lid and the subway release won't fire when tested. All the coils marked A6-B1-0 and up will not fire when tested.
So, as a new owner with no way of getting someone over to my house to help, where do I begin to troubleshoot this? The coil diagram and so forth in the manual means nothing to me. Is there someplace I can go that would explain that at least?
I really have no idea what to do, and I am a complete beginner at pinball repair, so any help at all would be much appreciated. Thanks.

You probably have a blown fuse on one of the two pdc16 boards. There are two fuses per board, for a total of 4 fuses.

#12408 44 days ago

As far as the trunk lid goes...make sure the ground at the lid switch hasnt broken. That can be a common issue. Raise playfield and set on header. Look at wiring going to trunk lid. For tilt...go to diagnostics and ground the tilt mimicking a tilt knock, and see if it will then reset and show green.

#12409 44 days ago

Fantastic. Thanks, y'all. You've given me a great place to start.

#12410 44 days ago
Quoted from Thwacko:

Sorry if this isn't the place to post this, but I'm new at all this.
I bought a Houdini NIB right before the lockdowns started last year. Everything's been more-or-less fine until a few months ago when I got a switch error notification on the menu screen.
Diagnostics menu shows the trunk lid and tilt in red. What this means practically is that the trunk lid doesn't open to lock multiball, and the subway lock release doesn't work either. So you can't start mutliball, and all the balls eventually end up locked in the subway.
I ran coil tests, and sure enough the trunk lid and the subway release won't fire when tested. All the coils marked A6-B1-0 and up will not fire when tested.
So, as a new owner with no way of getting someone over to my house to help, where do I begin to troubleshoot this? The coil diagram and so forth in the manual means nothing to me. Is there someplace I can go that would explain that at least?
I really have no idea what to do, and I am a complete beginner at pinball repair, so any help at all would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Similar happened to me recently with half the coils not test firing including the ones you mention and I couldn't work out what was wrong. I checked the fuses which were fine. As I was looking at the wiring under the playfield again, I finally noticed a 2 wire (red and black) connector had come off somewhere in the middle of the playfield. I reconnected it and then all the coils started test firing and therefore worked in the game again.

#12411 44 days ago
Quoted from Thwacko:

Diagnostics menu shows the trunk lid and tilt in red. What this means practically is that the trunk lid doesn't open to lock multiball, and the subway lock release doesn't work either. So you can't start mutliball, and all the balls eventually end up locked in the subway.

As I mention in the video, make sure to pull out the coin door interlock switch; otherwise no coils will work in test.

As for switches, if they haven't been hit in a while, they will turn red letting you know there may be an issue. For home use free play games, these will be the coin mech switches and maybe the tilt if you're not someone that shakes the machine.

#12412 44 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

WAIT, WHAT??
Did the morse code change?

It did change but I keep forgetting to record it and figure it out. Josh hinted that it would provide some clue on some kind of shortcut or cheat to get to Master Magician mode so if you figure it out you might want to post a spoiler alert before posting the message.

#12413 44 days ago

Just joined the club and had a blast playing last night. Stacked Bullet catch, Seance multiball, and trunk multiball. Previous owner had installed the knocker, so it was awesome hearing it go off with every bulltet catch. Is it supposed to be two knocks per catch, because that is what it sounded like? Anyway, great game and can't wait to try to get deeper into it!

#12414 44 days ago
Quoted from Crile1:

Just joined the club and had a blast playing last night. Stacked Bullet catch, Seance multiball, and trunk multiball. Previous owner had installed the knocker, so it was awesome hearing it go off with every bulltet catch. Is it supposed to be two knocks per catch, because that is what it sounded like? Anyway, great game and can't wait to try to get deeper into it!

No, just once per catch. Depending on what shot you locked in as your "catch" though it's easy for it just to be more catches than the display can keep up with. You'll always have the inner loop lit for a catch too so if you get the left orbit or, even better, the Key Lane you can wrack up catches like crazy during MB, it's awesome especially with the knocker.

#12415 44 days ago
Quoted from Crile1:

Just joined the club and had a blast playing last night. Stacked Bullet catch, Seance multiball, and trunk multiball. Previous owner had installed the knocker, so it was awesome hearing it go off with every bulltet catch. Is it supposed to be two knocks per catch, because that is what it sounded like? Anyway, great game and can't wait to try to get deeper into it!

At some point the code was also making the knocker do a noise like it was cocking a gun, so you might be hearing that too. I'm not sure if it works in the newest code still.

wait until you get pretty far into "the man from beyond" - that REALLY cool in a dark room. You may go blind!

#12416 43 days ago
Quoted from Thwacko:

Sorry if this isn't the place to post this, but I'm new at all this.
I bought a Houdini NIB right before the lockdowns started last year. Everything's been more-or-less fine until a few months ago when I got a switch error notification on the menu screen.
Diagnostics menu shows the trunk lid and tilt in red. What this means practically is that the trunk lid doesn't open to lock multiball, and the subway lock release doesn't work either. So you can't start mutliball, and all the balls eventually end up locked in the subway.
I ran coil tests, and sure enough the trunk lid and the subway release won't fire when tested. All the coils marked A6-B1-0 and up will not fire when tested.
So, as a new owner with no way of getting someone over to my house to help, where do I begin to troubleshoot this? The coil diagram and so forth in the manual means nothing to me. Is there someplace I can go that would explain that at least?
I really have no idea what to do, and I am a complete beginner at pinball repair, so any help at all would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Things in Red in the switch test are switches not hit in 30 games. So for some switches it does not mean much (e.g. tilt, coin switches).

The trunk lid switch is not really used by the game. Original intent was to use it to be sure the trunk is open before throwing, but I thought its was cooler to open it after the ball is in the air, plus not having that open when throwing creates more stable power for the throw itself.

sounds like you have a blown Fuse, the manual will show which 'bank' has those coils and what the wire color for that bank, which will help you figured out which board has the blown fuse. The driver boards are under the playfield, in the middle.

#12417 43 days ago
Quoted from Thwacko:

...
I ran coil tests, and sure enough the trunk lid and the subway release won't fire when tested. All the coils marked A6-B1-0 and up will not fire when tested.
...

got this 3 weeks ago, it was the fuse (the right one & up, in front of you when PF is up)

13
#12418 43 days ago

I complied this handy quick reference pdf guide for troubleshooting coils and switches. Enjoy.

Houdini - Quick Reference Guide.pdf
#12419 43 days ago
Quoted from Crile1:

Just joined the club and had a blast playing last night. Stacked Bullet catch, Seance multiball, and trunk multiball. Previous owner had installed the knocker, so it was awesome hearing it go off with every bulltet catch. Is it supposed to be two knocks per catch, because that is what it sounded like? Anyway, great game and can't wait to try to get deeper into it!

For some reason, all the motion caused by the handful of magnets really caught my eye when I first got my machine. The ball can be thrown from one to another in an eery motion. Very cool!!!

And you should check to make sure the extra capacitor is installed under the playfield, which "powers" the flippers. You will see it mounted to the underside of the playfield, mid-way up, near the controller card. It acts as a reservoir of energy to assure that the flippers have enough power when the magnets and other high power devices are ON. My guess is if they installed the real knocker, then they probably have already installed the extra capacitor, but worth a check to be sure.

Have fun!!!!

#12420 42 days ago

I just spent some time installing a few mods on my Houdini. I have to give a shout-out to Hdmike444 and his most excellent eye blocker mod! If you have a Houdini and do NOT have this simple mod, you are really missing out. His store ad has some before and after photos of how the eyes look with this mod installed. I can say from experience that those photos do not do it justice! It is great for the eyes to actually look like eyes, and not just random round blobs of color!!!

Sometimes, it is the simplest (and cheapest) mods like this one, or Pinmonk's colored inserts for Imdn or Deadpool, or the pharoah eye blocker for Imdn, that make even more difference than the more elaborate and expensive ones.

#12421 40 days ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

I just spent some time installing a few mods on my Houdini. I have to give a shout-out to Hdmike444 and his most excellent eye blocker mod! If you have a Houdini and do NOT have this simple mod, you are really missing out. His store ad has some before and after photos of how the eyes look with this mod installed. I can say from experience that those photos do not do it justice! It is great for the eyes to actually look like eyes, and not just random round blobs of color!!!
Sometimes, it is the simplest (and cheapest) mods like this one, or Pinmonk's colored inserts for Imdn or Deadpool, or the pharoah eye blocker for Imdn, that make even more difference than the more elaborate and expensive ones.

I did a DIY eye mod on mine. Definitely ads a nice touch to the look!

#12422 40 days ago

I won a Houdini translite and don't have a use for it. Would like to see it go to a good home. Anyone interested? Just pay shipping and maybe a six pack of beer?

EDIT: Spoken for. Off to a good home!

#12423 37 days ago

houdini no sound at all.... volume buttons work but no sound any suggestions or pictures of speakers would be appreciated.. thank you.

#12424 37 days ago

Is there any whitenoise sound out of the speakers as you put the volume up?

If there is complete silence i would think the small amplifier is broken or the loudspeakercable are not connected to the amplifier. Maybe the amp has no power, there should be a lighted led.

You also could put the small aux cable from the amplifier in a random soundbox to test if the sound works out of the computer.

#12425 37 days ago
Quoted from JagDaniels:

Is there any whitenoise sound out of the speakers as you put the volume up?
If there is complete silence i would think the small amplifier is broken or the loudspeakercable are not connected to the amplifier. Maybe the amp has no power, there should be a lighted led.
You also could put the small aux cable from the amplifier in a random soundbox to test if the sound works out of the computer.

the

Quoted from JagDaniels:

Is there any whitenoise sound out of the speakers as you put the volume up?
If there is complete silence i would think the small amplifier is broken or the loudspeakercable are not connected to the amplifier. Maybe the amp has no power, there should be a lighted led.
You also could put the small aux cable from the amplifier in a random soundbox to test if the sound works out of the computer.

the loud speaker cable is that on the bottom of the cabinet or on top.. pictures would help.. thanks for your help, there is complete silence. i will check

#12426 37 days ago

Anyone have issues with the game randomly not registering credits? I have my game set on the 1.00 or 3/ 2.00 and randomly the game will stop acknowledging credits. I can't find an issue with the bill validator. If the game is rebooted it starts working fine. Could this be a code issue?

#12427 37 days ago
Quoted from gmanrulz46:

the

the loud speaker cable is that on the bottom of the cabinet or on top.. pictures would help.. thanks for your help, there is complete silence. i will check

1. check if the amplifier has power, there goes a cable into the amplifier for power (power input), and that it sits correctly.

2. check if the amplifier on / of switch is in the on position (I) not (o)

If your game is powered on, and the amplifier is turned on there should be a small LED (red) lighting. To indicate the amplifier is on.

Check this homepage for a good view of the amplifier.

https://www.soundimports.eu/de/lepai-lp-168ha.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkK6vmI2h7wIVxYbVCh0MYQ9WEAQYASABEgJ4EfD_BwE

The speakercables are all nearby and are thin, a pair goes on the upper side of the backbox and a pair goes down on the lower side of the backbox.

Check the picture (screen is dismounted).

Houdini has no subwoofer or any speaker in the cabinet.

08-03-2021-17:41:55-PM (resized).jpg
#12428 36 days ago

P-roc has been working with spooky on R&M for the flipper knockdowns.

Evidently there is new strings of code afoot for this problem, from P-roc.

I would love to see if this can positively affect Houdini !

#12429 36 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

P-roc has been working with spooky on R&M for the flipper knockdowns.
Evidently there is new strings of code afoot for this problem, from P-roc.
I would love to see if this can positivrly affect Houdini !

Any additional information / source available on this? I haven't been following the R&M threads at all.

#12430 36 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Any additional information / source available on this? I haven't been following the R&M threads at all.

Very interesting. I have a P3 which is fantastic! - but it does seem to occasionally display this issue that seems vaguely similar to the Houdini drops. Now it could be my imagination, but they are right next to each other and it crossed my mind the other day.

#12431 36 days ago

I can clarify the [non-confidential] parts of my (P-ROC?) involvement in the R&M changes, though I can't speak for any specific MFG's implementation (other than of course the P3 machine's).

I've suggested a few changes relative to how R&M programs the hardware for flippers with EOS switches and to add a few software commands to close some timing holes related to fast flips.

These software changes aren't relevant to the P3 machine today, as the current P3 flippers don't have EOS switches (The first playfields didn't need them. CCR and Heist get the ball moving a lot quicker than LL-EE and CL do, though the hold profile we use is pretty good). That said, we're designing EOS switches into the assemblies to eliminate the issue, hopefully in a way they can be added to existing modules - fun engineering challenge.

- Gerry
https://www.multimorphic.com

#12432 36 days ago
Quoted from gstellenberg:

I can clarify the [non-confidential] parts of my (P-ROC?) involvement in the R&M changes, though I can't speak for any specific MFG's implementation (other than of course the P3 machine's).
I've suggested a few changes relative to how R&M programs the hardware for flippers with EOS switches and to add a few software commands to close some timing holes related to fast flips.
These software changes aren't relevant to the P3 machine today, as the current P3 flippers don't have EOS switches (The first playfields didn't need them. CCR and Heist get the ball moving a lot quicker than LL-EE and CL do, though the hold profile we use is pretty good). That said, we're designing EOS switches into the assemblies to eliminate the issue, hopefully in a way they can be added to existing modules - fun engineering challenge.
- Gerry
https://www.multimorphic.com

I can confirm that CCR really can whip the ball around, especially those inner loops! That particle accelerator is awesome fun

#12433 36 days ago
Quoted from JagDaniels:

1. check if the amplifier has power, there goes a cable into the amplifier for power (power input), and that it sits correctly.
2. check if the amplifier on / of switch is in the on position (I) not (o)
If your game is powered on, and the amplifier is turned on there should be a small LED (red) lighting. To indicate the amplifier is on.
Check this homepage for a good view of the amplifier.
https://www.soundimports.eu/de/lepai-lp-168ha.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkK6vmI2h7wIVxYbVCh0MYQ9WEAQYASABEgJ4EfD_BwE
The speakercables are all nearby and are thin, a pair goes on the upper side of the backbox and a pair goes down on the lower side of the backbox.
Check the picture (screen is dismounted).
Houdini has no subwoofer or any speaker in the cabinet. [quoted image]

thanks for your help

#12434 36 days ago
Quoted from gstellenberg:

I can clarify the [non-confidential] parts of my (P-ROC?) involvement in the R&M changes, though I can't speak for any specific MFG's implementation (other than of course the P3 machine's).
I've suggested a few changes relative to how R&M programs the hardware for flippers with EOS switches and to add a few software commands to close some timing holes related to fast flips.
These software changes aren't relevant to the P3 machine today, as the current P3 flippers don't have EOS switches (The first playfields didn't need them. CCR and Heist get the ball moving a lot quicker than LL-EE and CL do, though the hold profile we use is pretty good). That said, we're designing EOS switches into the assemblies to eliminate the issue, hopefully in a way they can be added to existing modules - fun engineering challenge.
- Gerry
https://www.multimorphic.com

I have EOS switches in my Houdini as well as many more of us, they are supported in the code.

In fact API has an add-on EOS kit available for purchase, fully supported.

So, can we benefit from recent code developments?

#12435 36 days ago

I am quite certain that Josh used the EOS switches instead of simple energized timing if those EOS switches were detected.

#12436 36 days ago

Yeah, I'll defer to Josh on Houdini's implementation. The new EOS code in R&M might be useful in other games, but every machine's hardware is different.

- Gerry
https://www.multimorphic.com

#12437 36 days ago

I was close to listing this pin for sale because I need space and it could fetch more coin than others I own. But I fired it up yesterday after about a month of non play. Holy cow! This pin is such a joy. I had it set steeper than before. The stacking of modes, multiball, combos and seance felt great. The chance to come back from the dead, the magnets, and the straight jacket inverted. I can't wait to get deeper into the code.

One thing I noticed and I'm wondering if it's a code or switch problem? When the hat mystery award is lit and I'm one letter away from spelling 'escape' and the ball falls into the mystery hole spotting an 'escape' letter. I'm getting the call out that the jail is now ready, then it goes to mystery award and if I double flip to skip the animation it then immediately starts a jail escape. So, it falls into the hole qualifying it and starting it? That can't be right. I'm pretty sure if I don't double flip to skip the mystery then it won't auto start jail escape. Anyone think I may have a switch issue in the subway? Or is this a code bug?

#12438 35 days ago
Quoted from Vernisious:

One thing I noticed and I'm wondering if it's a code or switch problem? When the hat mystery award is lit and I'm one letter away from spelling 'escape' and the ball falls into the mystery hole spotting an 'escape' letter. I'm getting the call out that the jail is now ready, then it goes to mystery award and if I double flip to skip the animation it then immediately starts a jail escape. So, it falls into the hole qualifying it and starting it? That can't be right. I'm pretty sure if I don't double flip to skip the mystery then it won't auto start jail escape. Anyone think I may have a switch issue in the subway? Or is this a code bug?

Josh will surelly reply...
but i'll pay attention to this next time i'll play Houdini

#12439 35 days ago

As far as this EOS/flipper conversation. As you know Houdini did not have EOS and nor did TNA. Part of this was that neither Scott nor I had any issues with knockdowns on our custom games. One of the big differences is that those games ran on 70V where commercial games now run on 48V. At 48V the hold is not quite as strong as it is at 70V and depending on your style of play, knockdowns can occur.

When the issue first popped up TNA add a 'hold boost', which basically using the main power as a secondary support for Hold. While I added that to Houdini, I was not a fan of that approach as it can cause flippers to heat up faster, as well as a buzzing sound, so I also added support for EOS switches to re-fire coils on knockdowns, and the EOS kits became available in the store. BTW, my Houdini does not have EOS nor does it have any of the power supply improvements.

As most of you know, EOS is standard on Oktoberfest and Hot Wheels

I've talked with Eric a few times about the issues R&M was having with knockdowns, the solution I used on Houdini would not work for R&M since after TNA, spooky moved to using single wound coils (not sure about ACNC). Single wound coils make this quite a bit more complicated, as you need to both re-fire the flipper and re-establish the hold, where on a dual wound coil on a knockdown we only need to re-fire the main power, as the hold is still active. The two step approach needed with single wound makes this a bit more complicated as there is a possibility of race conditions resulting from rapid flipper action, that can result in an odd flipper issues. It sounds like Eric and Gerry have now found an approach to handle this effectively. It is unlikely that any of the code work they have done would have any benefit to Houdini, but we will certainly evaluate that at the appropriate time.

#12440 35 days ago
Quoted from Vernisious:

I was close to listing this pin for sale because I need space and it could fetch more coin than others I own. But I fired it up yesterday after about a month of non play. Holy cow! This pin is such a joy. I had it set steeper than before. The stacking of modes, multiball, combos and seance felt great. The chance to come back from the dead, the magnets, and the straight jacket inverted. I can't wait to get deeper into the code.
One thing I noticed and I'm wondering if it's a code or switch problem? When the hat mystery award is lit and I'm one letter away from spelling 'escape' and the ball falls into the mystery hole spotting an 'escape' letter. I'm getting the call out that the jail is now ready, then it goes to mystery award and if I double flip to skip the animation it then immediately starts a jail escape. So, it falls into the hole qualifying it and starting it? That can't be right. I'm pretty sure if I don't double flip to skip the mystery then it won't auto start jail escape. Anyone think I may have a switch issue in the subway? Or is this a code bug?

No you should not get to start it as well. So either, you got the last letter off a target before it fell in to the hole (fairly common), or possibly that got inadvertently changed in the last release with all of the work to improve the game flow in places like that magic shop/jail escape hole. I'll have to investigate.

#12441 35 days ago
Quoted from rosh:

No you should not get to start it as well. So either, you got the last letter off a target before it fell in to the hole (fairly common), or possibly that got inadvertently changed in the last release with all of the work to improve the game flow in places like that magic shop/jail escape hole. I'll have to investigate.

This is exactly the kind of hands on, involved approach that API has demonstrated to their customers that has convinced me to start looking for an Oktoberfest for sale in my area. Keep up the great support Josh!

#12442 35 days ago

i confirm the prob Josh, just get it few minutes ago (while paying attention) :

got 5 ESCAPE letters, ball goes in upper hole, it gives me the last letter, get the scene saying the jail was than ready, get the MYSTERY sequence, and than get the jail escape starting, while ball came back from the scoop

#12443 35 days ago
Quoted from GSones:

This is exactly the kind of hands on, involved approach that API has demonstrated to their customers that has convinced me to start looking for an Oktoberfest for sale in my area. Keep up the great support Josh!

as lots of customers i think
this is for sure a very important point

and dont hesitate to go for OF, its a very good & fun pin, with a lot to offer

#12444 35 days ago
Quoted from rosh:

No you should not get to start it as well. So either, you got the last letter off a target before it fell in to the hole (fairly common), or possibly that got inadvertently changed in the last release with all of the work to improve the game flow in places like that magic shop/jail escape hole. I'll have to investigate.

It could be that the last letter was collected just before entering. I'll keep a really close eye on it.
Another thing I noticed was I would get another skill shot opportunity if the ball falls back in the shooter lane. Not sure if by design.

#12445 35 days ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

i confirm the prob Josh, just get it few minutes ago (while paying attention) :
got 5 ESCAPE letters, ball goes in upper hole, it gives me the last letter, get the scene saying the jail was than ready, get the MYSTERY sequence, and than get the jail escape starting, while ball came back from the scoop

Do you know if you skipped the hat animation with double flip? I'm going to recreate with and without skipping the animation.

#12446 35 days ago
Quoted from Vernisious:

Another thing I noticed was I would get another skill shot opportunity if the ball falls back in the shooter lane. Not sure if by design.

yes by design. Something I had always planned, given the 'escape' to the shooter lane, but did not get to it until I think the last code release, made it was the one before.

#12447 34 days ago
Quoted from Vernisious:

Do you know if you skipped the hat animation with double flip? I'm going to recreate with and without skipping the animation.

i know i didnt skip the animation
this one is an easy bug to recreate without the glass...

#12448 33 days ago

A questions for owners who have enabled (currently or in the past) 'Stage Front Eject' . . .

While it is only used in a few places, how well does it work on your machine as far as successfully ejecting out the front? most of the time, some of the time or practically never?

#12449 33 days ago
Quoted from rosh:

A questions for owners who have enabled (currently or in the past) 'Stage Front Eject' . . .
While it is only used in a few places, how well does it work on your machine as far as successfully ejecting out the front? most of the time, some of the time or practically never?

Mine always works, I've never had the ball catch or get hung up

#12450 33 days ago
Quoted from rosh:

A questions for owners who have enabled (currently or in the past) 'Stage Front Eject' . . .
While it is only used in a few places, how well does it work on your machine as far as successfully ejecting out the front? most of the time, some of the time or practically never?

The few times it has happened, it works fine.

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