American Pinball Houdini thread

(Topic ID: 183206)

American Pinball Houdini thread


By lllvjr

1 year ago



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#6951 4 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I have a good infrared thermometer. I'm just too lazy to use it. Coil temps are pretty warm but not super hot, so I guess all is good.

That one is superior to a spot check because it records the RANGE of heat over time so you get an accurate min/max on two different probes.

#6952 4 days ago
Quoted from zahner:

So, to get the scoop installed, did you basically have to strip everything off of the playfield around the scoop? I took the plastic behind the scoop, and the scoop off and had hoped that it would just slip in. But it didn’t seem to want to be that easy.

I meant to say: “ so, to get the scoop protector installed.”

#6953 4 days ago
Quoted from zahner:

So, to get the scoop installed, did you basically have to strip everything off of the playfield around the scoop? I took the plastic behind the scoop, and the scoop off and had hoped that it would just slip in. But it didn’t seem to want to be that easy.

Let's see...going from my poor memory:

1) The long plastic up top comes off. Note that some of the screws along the edge don't need to come out, there's a notch in the plastic. Just loosen them up. (Didn't know that)
2) I remember having to take the solenoid out. Not hard, but a screw or two is in an spot where the screwdriver is close to bumping into other stuff. So grab something to hold it in place like a long zip tie, etc. This was needed to get the lip of the Cliffy into the scoop hole.
3) A post comes out, don't remember which one, kinda obvious tho.
4) The most difficult part was trying to loosen up the metal rail so you can slide the cliffy under it. I recall loosening up 4 or 5 screws (the others at the other end were hard to get to). Still wasn't easy at all. Go slow and don't force it.
5) I believe the planchet needs to come off, but that was easy.

Those are the big ones. As pinballinreno mentioned, always put down a towel to catch any stary hardware. He has pictures of his install somewhere in this thread too. I usually also stuff a small rag or kleenex in areas or other hole openings too. And get a camera out and shoot a boat load of pictures of how things go together before turning a screw.

#6954 4 days ago

pinballinreno Thanks for that 12 min Golden Earring music vid from 1984 on TZ. I've never seen it and watched all 12+ mins.

I love my TZ... probably my fav in my collection. Owned it since 95'

#6955 4 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Let's see...going from my poor memory:
1) The long plastic up top comes off. Note that some of the screws along the edge don't need to come out, there's a notch in the plastic. Just loosen them up. (Don't know that)
2) I remember having to take the solenoid out. Not hard, but a screw or two is in an spot where the screwdriver is close to bumping into other stuff. So grab something to hold it in place like a long zip tie, etc. This was needed to get the lip of the Cliffy into the scoop hole.
3) A post comes out, don't remember which one, kinda obvious tho.
4) The most difficult part was trying to loosen up the metal rail so you can slide the cliffy under it. I recall loosening up 4 or 5 screws (the others at the other end were hard to get to). Still wasn't easy at all. Go slow and don't force it.
5) I believe the planchet needs to come off, but that was easy.
Those are the big ones. As pinballinreno mentioned, always put down a towel to catch any stary hardware. He has pictures of his install somewhere in this thread too. I usually also stuff a small rag or kleenex in areas or other hole openings too. And get a camera out and shoot a boat load of pictures of how things go together before turning a screw.

Thanks, as i was fiddling with it it look like it was going to be involved like that. I’ll get to it eventually. I’m having too much fun playing the game to have a down long enough to do it. I only get to play at night when everyone’s in bed, and I’m not ignoring my family by playing Houdini for two hours

#6956 4 days ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

pinballinreno Thanks for that 12 min Golden Earring music vid from 1984 on TZ. I've never seen it and watched all 12+ mins.
I love my TZ... probably my fav in my collection. Owned it since 95'

rosh mentioned it in a reply.

I was waxing nostalgic.

I miss my TZ sometimes.
Maybe I'll get another one some day

Maybe someone will make me an offer on one lol.

#6957 4 days ago
Quoted from BioBa:

Can you explain why?
Forgot to say I'm in Australia at 240V we don't need the upgraded power supply (I was told).

Quoted from pinballinreno:

No, but higher wattage power will make it easier to flip the ball and have less thermal residue.
The device works more sufficiently.
As with everything electrical, low power or brown out conditions cause heat buildup.
The upgraded power supply is 750 watt. The original is near half that.
Your 240v service does not give you more power. Just less power is used from the wall. So internally the power used is the same.
Upgrading the internal power supply fixes many issues, like weak flippers.
EOS switches let the game know when a flipper is knocked down so it can automatically raise it or keep it up.
I recommend EOS and the new power supply.

I was going to post what our 240V power supply looked like a few weeks ago but given the discussion about the US replacement unit again in the context of our 240V machines I thought it would make sense to post it. I was only having a chat with our distributor recently where he was amazed at how many owners were calling him here in Aus and asking for 'the replacement power supply' to which he gave the same response you don't need the replacement USA power supply in our machines. It's one thing to quote the benefits of added wattage on the replacement US unit, however unless you have a spec sheet on hand for our units, you're making a massive assumption re the specs on our units. My understanding of electronic power supplies tells me ours doesn't look like underspecced unit somehow, especially when you lay eyes on the transformer. Of course it's unhelpful that its otherwise unmarked being caseless, but comparing it visually to something like this Antek 800w 48V unit, it does bear some resemblance (definitely in dimensions) http://www.antekinc.com/ps-8n48-800w-48v-power-supply/. Not saying that makes it equivalent of course just that it might be something of a similar spec.
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#6958 4 days ago
Quoted from Our_Man_in_Oz:

I was going to post what our 240V power supply looked like a few weeks ago but given the discussion about the US replacement unit again in the context of our 240V machines I thought it would make sense to post it. I was only having a chat with our distributor recently where he was amazed at how many owners were calling him here in Aus and asking for 'the replacement power supply' to which he gave the same response you don't need the replacement USA power supply in our machines. It's one thing to quote the benefits of added wattage on the replacement US unit, however unless you have a spec sheet on hand for our units, you're making a massive assumption re the specs on our units. My understanding of electronic power supplies tells me ours doesn't look like underspecced unit somehow, especially when you lay eyes on the transformer. Of course it's unhelpful that its otherwise unmarked being caseless, but comparing it visually to something like this Antek 800w 48V unit, it does bear some resemblance (definitely in dimensions) http://www.antekinc.com/ps-8n48-800w-48v-power-supply/. Not saying that makes it equivalent of course just that it might be something of a similar spec.
[quoted image]

Looks like the USA one. The issue is the difference between dumb unregulated power (what this is) and a "smart" regulated power supply (what the add-on is).

#6961 4 days ago

As vire mentioned, it's unregulated. It's not undersized. The new one is a "switching" topology. The large transformer isn't needed.

#6962 4 days ago

To re-visit the two Playfield supplier topic I thought I'd mention that mine is a Mirco, it is branded under the apron as is typical for them. I wonder if B&T made the others?

#6963 4 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

I'd never opened a machine before, so replacing the front apron, was a bit confusing, as the yellow pull-out bar disappeared once it was removed. I kept pushing downward, softly, to no avail, assuming the metal tabs would slip in. Luckily I looked inside with my phone flashlight, and found the bar tucked upwards, from being released prior. I'd accidentally pulled on the yellow playfield leg, thinking it was the pulldown bar!

Congratulations on getting your first game, it's definitely a thrill and make sure you have room because they tend to multiply! FYI the bar you remove to pull out the glass is called the lockdown bar. The apron is the large metal (or plastic depending on game) piece that covers the bottom of the playfield and funnels lost balls into the trough. It is also what you grab to lift the playfield for service.

12
#6964 4 days ago

Finally joined the club...what a great game!! Power source was really easy to install. This game is so much better to play in a home environment where you can hear the music and snarky comments so much better. I’m looking so forward to getting more flips in on this beauty!

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#6965 4 days ago
Quoted from wyopin:

Finally joined the club...what a great game!! Power source was really easy to install. This game is so much better to play in a home environment where you can hear the music and snarky comments so much better. I’m looking so forward to getting more flips in on this beauty!
[quoted image]

Congrats on your new game! It a beauty that's for sure.
Feel free to ask for tips on setup as you get into it, if needed.

My game plays like a dream, after some very minor adjustments.

I love this game its not going anywhere soon.

#6966 4 days ago
Quoted from wyopin:

Finally joined the club...what a great game!! Power source was really easy to install. This game is so much better to play in a home environment where you can hear the music and snarky comments so much better. I’m looking so forward to getting more flips in on this beauty!
[quoted image]

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Congrats on your new game! It a beauty that's for sure.
Feel free to ask for tips on setup as you get into it, if needed.
My game plays like a dream, after some very minor adjustments.
I love this game its not going anywhere soon.

Ditto on all that, and nice line up with the Batman and Dialed In.

#6967 4 days ago
Quoted from Our_Man_in_Oz:

asking for 'the replacement power supply'

Its not a replacement supply. You leave the original in the game.

Its an upgrade to the existing.

The upgraded supply goes in the game to the right of the existing, plugs into it and a couple wires get rerouted to the upgraded supply.

This enhanced supply now has more usable wattage for the game. Since its regulated, it delivers constant correct power with twice the wattage of the original, and moves up or down as needed.

The original unregulated supply does none of this as it was said earlier its "dumb".

#6968 4 days ago
Quoted from rosh:

Houdini is not a game you will necessarily 'get' playing it one time on location, you need to understand the shots and the rules to enjoy it. This is true of many highly regarded games. TZ, WOZ, and TSPP are just a few of the games where my first impression were negative, but once I was able to learn the game and play it more, I was able to enjoy and appreciate it. TZ and TSPP are now both in my collection. I can easily name machines the other way as well, where playing it the first time was wowed, but then realized there was not much substance there. Of course there are games that just stay bad and some that stay great from that first impression.
No doubt the talk of 'tight shots' becomes a self-fulfilling prophecy for those who get that in their head before playing. Pinball is a very mental game, very easy to psych yourself out.
Doing a review on a game that you have not spent some time with is doing a disservice to the community. There was one podcast that did that, reviewed it after playing it one time on location, and they were just flat out wrong with so many things they said. That too is a disservice to the community, their listeners and to the companies making machines.

I had that extreme reaction to TZ...too hard and frustrated that I couldnt make any of the cool shots and features. To this day, I wont invest any tokens in it when I come across one. That wasn't the case with Houdini. I made the inner loop multiple times on my first game. So it was, hey, I can do this! Now if anyone here wants to lend me a TZ for a month or two, I could try to warm up to it...

#6969 4 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

To re-visit the two Playfield supplier topic I thought I'd mention that mine is a Mirco, it is branded under the apron as is typical for them. I wonder if B&T made the others?

My dimpley playfield says Bader cabinets under the apron.

#6970 4 days ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

I had that extreme reaction to TZ...too hard and frustrated that I couldnt make any of the cool shots and features. To this day, I wont invest any tokens in it when I come across one. That wasn't the case with Houdini. I made the inner loop multiple times on my first game. So it was, hey, I can do this! Now if anyone here wants to lend me a TZ for a month or two, I could try to warm up to it...

TZ was a very expensive game to build. I think the most expensive game ever built in that era.
It didnt do particularly well on location and was considered an epic failure by some.

The art and music are iconic.

Going with Golden Earrings "Twilight Zone" as the main music was truly epic as a choice!

The game was Possibly ahead of its time.

Electronically, its a marvel. Some very cutting edge stuff in that game.

Later it has become a well loved game by enthusiasts, collectors and better players who appreciate challenge as being fun.

I think Houdini will follow this path as people get to know it better.

Houdini, as it gets polished up more and more with code enhancements and fun ideas, will become another "Must Have" classic in most collections.

#6971 4 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I think Houdini will follow this path as people get to know it better.

I've often compared it to TZ. It's going to be a great home game. A game that can really kick you and leave you wanting to play again. A game you won't tire of.

LTG : )

#6972 4 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Its not a replacement supply. You leave the original in the game.
Its an upgrade to the existing.
The upgraded supply goes in the game to the right of the existing, plugs into it and a couple wires get rerouted to the upgraded supply.
This enhanced supply now has more usable wattage for the game. Since its regulated, it delivers constant correct power with twice the wattage of the original, and moves up or down as needed.
The original unregulated supply does none of this as it was said earlier its "dumb".

Pinballinreno makes a good point, for those upgrading. The original power supply is still used (the left side of the power supply outputs). It's the right side (the 48V section) that is disconnected - and the 48V switcher upgrade is utilized in its place.

#6973 3 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Its not a replacement supply. You leave the original in the game.
Its an upgrade to the existing.
The upgraded supply goes in the game to the right of the existing, plugs into it and a couple wires get rerouted to the upgraded supply.
This enhanced supply now has more usable wattage for the game. Since its regulated, it delivers constant correct power with twice the wattage of the original, and moves up or down as needed.
The original unregulated supply does none of this as it was said earlier its "dumb".

But again I'll say right now if Wayne the distributor here says 'we do not need the additional power supply' why is there such an assumption that our 'dumb' 240V main supply isn't sufficient i.e. AP had quite a while before producing the export machines to have time to have chosen a better main power supply option? I'm sure one of the the actual AP guys like BarryJ or rosh can actually add some value here rather than owners speculating on things between domestic and export machine power supplies.

#6974 3 days ago
Quoted from Our_Man_in_Oz:

...owners speculating on things between domestic and export machine power supplies.

Oz,

I think the better question is to ask your distributor, and have him back it up with numbers, why you don't need the upgrade. Is he a EE or a salesman that doesn't want to deal with the possible issue? Does he know your line voltage variation? Has he measured it? Over time? If it's not an improvement, why did AP offer it?

I'm not speculating, I'm a EE that understands the issue, as does more than a few people here. It's simple, and has been correctly discussed here numerous times to the point of being redundant.

Not trying to sound like a jerk. In the end it's your choice, but I think he is giving you some bad advice based on speculation.

By all means, if you feel more comfortable with an answer from AP, I understand.

#6975 3 days ago
Quoted from Our_Man_in_Oz:

But again I'll say right now if Wayne the distributor here says 'we do not need the additional power supply' why is there such an assumption that our 'dumb' 240V main supply isn't sufficient i.e. AP had quite a while before producing the export machines to have time to have chosen a better main power supply option? I'm sure one of the the actual AP guys like BarryJ or rosh can actually add some value here rather than owners speculating on things between domestic and export machine power supplies.

Its absolutely true.
You dont need the upgraded add on supply.

The main supply will not be changed out its very good and robust. It's a standard unregulated supply that has been used for decades.

However the game will run more controlled with the upgraded add on supply. and have a bit more wattage internally. The add on supply upgrade adds power regulation to the mix.

Houdini likes power regulation to run stably. Otherwise it changes a bit as power goes up and down.

I think, try it without and if you want more stability, add it in.

See if the game holds it settings or if the catapult misses its mark after working well and then not.

Or if the scoop changes over time and seems uncontrollable.

And in my opinion add the EOS switches. You dont need these either, but it plays better with them.

#6976 3 days ago

What voltage do you run in your home? Maybe you were told you didnt need the regulated supply because you are not suceptable to the fluctuations seen in the US 110v system.

#6977 3 days ago

From what I was advised by the manufacturer was the mains power dropping in the USA in warmer weather below 110v

here they are set to 240v and 1/2 the amperage at the higher voltage

we had another 1,000 games on our showroom game with no power supply issue.

I ran the game on a variac at 110v and changed the game to 110v, dropped the voltage down to 105v and saw the problem described, but can't see the fault running on the 240v mains

#6978 3 days ago

I think what bothers me about Oz's distributors comment is there's no guarantee that the line won't ever fluctuate. You're at the mercy of the electric company and other variables. What if Oz moves to an area that isn't as reliable? What if it varies enough that it occasionally hits the trunk opening and damages the paint over time? Oz has 13 pins, what if they are all turned on? What if the pin is eventually sold and a person buys it and experiences problems - who's responsible?

I know...there's a ton of 'what ifs' above that might not be relevant today. But there's no guarantees the issue won't crop up later. I'm the kind of the person that likes to eliminate the 'what ifs'. AP offered a solution that solves those variables and was generous enough to include a $150 credit, I'd take them up on their offer. Especially considering how simple the upgrade is to install.

My trunk shot was almost always spot on, but I still installed the upgrade. Adjusting the coil settings when the wife is in the middle of a good game would really ratchet down the 'fun factor'.

#6979 3 days ago
Quoted from Ballypinball:

From what I was advised by the manufacturer was the mains power dropping in the USA in warmer weather below 110v
here they are set to 240v and 1/2 the amperage at the higher voltage
we had another 1,000 games on our showroom game with no power supply issue.
I ran the game on a variac at 110v and changed the game to 110v, dropped the voltage down to 105v and saw the problem described, but can't see the fault running on the 240v mains

This sounds about right.

#6980 3 days ago

Oh man, I didn't realize that leveling was so integral to proper functioning. I played my first four games late last night with my friend, and had 2 airballs, and four out of four missed trunk shots. I think my leveling is waaaaaay off.

I've read about it on here, but assumed after seeing this happen so consistently, that must be the issue. Eek!

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Congrats on your new game! It a beauty that's for sure.
Feel free to ask for tips on setup as you get into it, if needed.
My game plays like a dream, after some very minor adjustments.
I love this game its not going anywhere soon.

Oh I forgot to ask folks here, are there tweaks to be made, in the menu system regarding flipper strength, and any other settings to get optimal/safe play?

#6981 3 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

Oh man, I didn't realize that leveling was so integral to proper functioning. I played my first four games late last night with my friend, and had 2 airballs, and four out of four missed trunk shots. I think my leveling is waaaaaay off.
I've read about it on here, but assumed after seeing this happen so consistently, that must be the issue. Eek!

Oh I forgot to ask folks here, are there tweaks to be made, in the menu system regarding flipper strength, and any other settings to get optimal/safe play?

Probably more critical on this game than on any other is leveling. The game is also not supposed to be set too high in back - screw the legs all the way down, and add a couple of turns in the back to raise it a touch. Flippers are IMO a tiny bit too strong on default settings, but it doesn’t hurt anything to keep them set there. Scoop usually needs setting a step lower

#6982 3 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

Oh man, I didn't realize that leveling was so integral to proper functioning. I played my first four games late last night with my friend, and had 2 airballs, and four out of four missed trunk shots. I think my leveling is waaaaaay off.
I've read about it on here, but assumed after seeing this happen so consistently, that must be the issue. Eek!

Oh I forgot to ask folks here, are there tweaks to be made, in the menu system regarding flipper strength, and any other settings to get optimal/safe play?

First level the game side to side and then think about the playfield pitch.
I have had my pitch from 5.9 degrees to 6.7 degrees. I think it plays best at about 6.2 to 6.3.

Use a digital torpedo level for the best results. The cell phone app is ok but tends to be different and even way off depending on the app.

Measure the pitch on the playfield not on the glass.

After levelling, turn on the game and drop a ball into the lower catapult. adjust in the settings until it makes the trunk consistantly.

The manual has all of the setup instructions in it.

Flippers are pretty good at around 23 or 24 right flipper, 24 or 25 for the left flipper. You might go slightly higher or lower depending on taste. Its not abnormal to get air-balls off the stand-ups, once in awhile. They are pretty close to the flippers and you need power to go up the ramp, so its a trade-off.

You should be able to make the ramp from a solid hit from the left flipper, on a weak hit the ball should roll back down.
If the ball races around the ramp easily you can turn down the flipper strength until it makes the ramp gracefully. This will get rid of a lot of air-balls.

Adjust the scoop until the ball barely makes it out of the hole. If it takes 2 tries a lot then maybe go up one notch.

The slings are pretty good on default, if they seem too active, and side drain too much, go down one notch.

I raised my pop bumpers up to get more action, close to the max, you might either do this or not.

Just go through the coil settings as you put a few test games on it and adjust as needed.

Other tweaks I have posted here are really a matter of taste. I felt the game could play more smoothly with a few adjustments, so I made them.

The default game play settings are pretty good. Set it to easy for a few games and then adjust harder as you understand the game.
Somewhere around the mid difficulty seems to be fun and not impossible.

#6983 3 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Congrats on your new game! It a beauty that's for sure.
Feel free to ask for tips on setup as you get into it, if needed.

Great write up on initial setup! Mine has been playing pretty well so far, but I’m not sure if my “stage alley” is playing as it should. When hitting that shot, should it make it all the way to the stage? Mine usually gets hung up in the pops

#6984 3 days ago
Quoted from wyopin:

Great write up on initial setup! Mine has been playing pretty well so far, but I’m not sure if my “stage alley” is playing as it should. When hitting that shot, should it make it all the way to the stage? Mine usually gets hung up in the pops

Try lowering the angle of the flippers 1/8"

Also adjust the flipper power until it shoots directly into the stage without bouncing out.

The stage alley shot has to be somewhat accurate to work.
It has to have enough speed and power and be a fairly solid hit.

Too strong and the ball can bounce out.

I get some rejects and bounce outs from the stage from the left flipper as it's a little strong. But it has to be in order to make the ramp effectively.

Again it's a compromise, but works pretty good.

Some have thought about adding thin dead drop foam to the back of the stage.

I haven't tried this but it might be worth looking into.

#6985 3 days ago

What location are people installing there New Knocker kit? I know the usual spot, but has anyone mixed it up?; ALA, Addams family or something else creative? Or up in the head, old school?
Lastly, who has installed one yet and how did it go?

#6986 2 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

First level the game side to side and then think about the playfield pitch.
I have had my pitch from 5.9 degrees to 6.7 degrees. I think it plays best at about 6.2 to 6.3.
Use a digital torpedo level for the best results. The cell phone app is ok but tends to be different and even way off depending on the app.
Measure the pitch on the playfield not on the glass.
After levelling, turn on the game and drop a ball into the lower catapult. adjust in the settings until it makes the trunk consistantly.
The manual has all of the setup instructions in it.
Flippers are pretty good at around 23 or 24 right flipper, 24 or 25 for the left flipper. You might go slightly higher or lower depending on taste. Its not abnormal to get air-balls off the stand-ups, once in awhile. They are pretty close to the flippers and you need power to go up the ramp, so its a trade-off.
You should be able to make the ramp from a solid hit from the left flipper, on a weak hit the ball should roll back down.
If the ball races around the ramp easily you can turn down the flipper strength until it makes the ramp gracefully. This will get rid of a lot of air-balls.
Adjust the scoop until the ball barely makes it out of the hole. If it takes 2 tries a lot then maybe go up one notch.
The slings are pretty good on default, if they seem too active, and side drain too much, go down one notch.
I raised my pop bumpers up to get more action, close to the max, you might either do this or not.
Just go through the coil settings as you put a few test games on it and adjust as needed.
Other tweaks I have posted here are really a matter of taste. I felt the game could play more smoothly with a few adjustments, so I made them.
The default game play settings are pretty good. Set it to easy for a few games and then adjust harder as you understand the game.
Somewhere around the mid difficulty seems to be fun and not impossible.

Thanks so much again for the assistance!

I tried to hunt down a digital torpedo leveler at Harbor Freight, a local hardware chain, and other department stores, and no luck. Figure I might grab one from Amazon.

Problem is, I got home, saw I was, with my phone app, over 7.1 on the pitch, and off to the right, which might explain trunk shot misses. Problem being, I tried to discover how to level the legs, and it seems pretty impossible solo. How do you usually do it, with a proper heighted stool to rest on? Then you just loosen the top washer and spin the leg lower? I tried finding videos, and could only find a quick Stern release. (Still missed 2/2 trunk shots).

A bit more pressing, my flippers seem really lop sided. I can see the boring hole on the left, where it should rest, and that left flipper is way, way high.

20181110_214125 (resized).jpg20181110_214148 (resized).jpg
#6987 2 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

A bit more pressing, my flippers seem really lop sided. I can see the boring hole on the left, where it should rest, and that left flipper is way, way high.

Assuming the flipper spring isn't broken. Loosen pawl nut a tiny bit, move flipper where it should be. Tighten pawl nut a LOT.

LTG : )

#6988 2 days ago

You can left the rear and set it on a stool that is taller then the legs to adjust. You can use a wrench and adjust the legs while full weight in on them risking scratching the surface of your floor. You can crawl under the game and kind of lift one side of it with your back supporting it and adjust the levelers (yes it works, and yes it's actually easier then it sounds). You only really need to do one rear side at a time to screw the levelers all the way in...

#6989 2 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Assuming the flipper spring isn't broken. Loosen pawl nut a tiny bit, move flipper where it should be. Tighten pawl nut a LOT.
LTG : )

Weird. I took this two days ago when I unpacked it, before powering it on, and it's higher on the left as well, but not as high as it is currently.

20181108_150154 (resized).jpg
#6990 2 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

Weird. I took this two days ago when I unpacked it, before powering it on, and it's higher on the left as well, but not as high as it is currently.

Not weird. Could have been ever so slightly not wrenched down real tight and slipped in shipping.

LTG : )

#6991 2 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Not weird. Could have been ever so slightly not wrenched down real tight and slipped in shipping.
LTG : )

So I'm looking for something like this? What kind of tool do I use to loosen it?

At the very least, I adjusted the lower catapult power from 27 at default, to 25, and it's worked for the first time, and four times in a row!!! That was fun!

ph_199x300 (resized).jpg
#6992 2 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

So I'm looking for something like this? What kind of tool do I use to loosen it?

Yes. I'd use a wrench. Just loosen a tiny bit so you can barely turn the flipper, get it in place, then retighten. If you loosen it up too much, then you have to allow for up and down play too.

LTG : )

#6993 2 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

What kind of tool do I use to loosen it?

Use a tool like this. Use the end marked 3/8

If you screw it up, this video may help :

LTG : )

DSC00680 (resized).JPG
#6994 2 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Yes. I'd use a wrench. Just loosen a tiny bit so you can barely turn the flipper, get it in place, then retighten. If you loosen it up too much, then you have to allow for up and down play too.
LTG : )

I'm guessing popping up the playfield is the way to do this?

#6995 2 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Use a tool like this. Use the end marked 3/8
If you screw it up, this video may help :
LTG : )
[quoted image]

Man, that guy's a pro! I really admire people who can do this sans any nerves.

Here's the sad little ikea branded wrench I have.

20181110_234238 (resized).jpg
#6996 2 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

I'm guessing popping up the playfield is the way to do this?

I'd go with that. Turn the game off first.

You'll never be able to do it through the coin door. If you try that, please shoot a video of it and post it.

LTG : )

#6997 2 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

Here's the sad little ikea branded wrench I have.

Different tool, will work. And about the same size as mine. Picture makes it look bigger.

LTG : )

#6998 2 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

I really admire people who can do this sans any nerves.

You blow enough sh*t up, you won't have any nerves to slow you down either. They burn out right after the first layer of skin.

LTG : )

#6999 2 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

You blow enough sh*t up, you won't have any nerves to slow you down either. They burn out right after the first layer of skin.
LTG : )

I was really gentle pulling forward, and waited for the lock sound which was really abrupt. It went back and down somewhat hard. Not sure if anything is screwed up here. The playfield is a bit locked down currently.
20181110_235116 (resized).jpg20181110_235122 (resized).jpg

20181110_235425 (resized).jpg
#7000 2 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

You blow enough sh*t up, you won't have any nerves to slow you down either. They burn out right after the first layer of skin.
LTG : )

It feels like it's locked in, won't budge much.

Did this jump off the rails? I didn't push hard very back at all.
1541913023932713325653183456649 (resized).jpg15419130521871284675340950698640 (resized).jpg

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