Ali
Stern Electronics, 1980
Big Game
Stern Electronics, 1980
Catacomb
Stern Electronics, 1981
Cheetah
Stern Electronics, 1980
Cosmic Princess
Stern Electronics, 1979
Dracula
Stern Electronics, 1979
Dragonfist
Stern Electronics, 1981
Flight 2000
Stern Electronics, 1980Quoted from play_pinball:He wants to use the rules of Ali on a homebrew / custom game. Not that crazy. Like this game Wild Schutz is a conversion game for the very different layout of Strikes and Spares
[quoted image][quoted image]
OK. I see now.
Interesting. A S & S without the 10 rollover buttons and 9 extra stand up targets.
Quoted from cottonm4:Although, Bally back glasses and back boxes are different from the Stern back boxes and cannot be crossed over easily.
Huh?
I moved this Galaxy to a Supersonic cabinet without much trouble.
Quoted from play_pinball:Huh?
I moved this Galaxy to a Supersonic cabinet without much trouble.
[quoted image]
I did not say that very well.
You can move the back boxes OK. But you cannot swap a Stern back glass into a Bally back box. Bally back glasses are not as tall.
Yea this is correct.
Home brew machine with Ali rim rules. But different layout.
Quoted from play_pinball:He wants to use the rules of Ali on a homebrew / custom game. Not that crazy. Like this game Wild Schutz is a conversion game for the very different layout of Strikes and Spares
[quoted image][quoted image]
Yea.
This is what I am thinking of doing.
Thanks for the info for me to look into.
Ali sounds will be Ok, to keep it as simple as possible at this stage.
I was just seeing what maybe required to run a bit of music over the top of them. Or a whole new sound package.
Thanks again for you reply.
Quoted from trecemaneras:I’m reading that the Ali is to be restored now instead of rethemed. But that the retheme plans are to continue, but without sacrificing an Ali (good call!). So the question is, what cabinet and boards could be used with a custom playfield that uses an Ali ROM.
My (uneducated) guess would be that any early ss cabinet would work, and a set of Weebly or Alltek boards to run the Ali ROM, but that would use the Ali sounds as well. To run your own custom sounds, I think you would have to run an Arduino and sound card combination or use a pin controller like FAST or P3-ROC, but if I’m not mistaken, both those options would require recreating the Ali code in Mission Pinball Framework, or some other platform that can talk to the controller.
You could check out DickHamill ‘s thread on replacing the classic stern sound board with an Arduino: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-the-m6800-in-a-stern-mpu100-with-an-arduino
Quoted from play_pinball:I don’t think that’s accurate. I used the whole cabinet, including the head.
[quoted image]
I stand corrected then. I have heard it from a couple of others that the Bally back glass was shorter. You are proof that the back boxes will interchange back glasses.
Your Galaxy cab looks fantastic !
I am also glad to see that I am not the only one who keeps a tool box in the dining room 
And Rick and Morty. My friend has a R & M. That play field is so beautiful when it is lit up.
Quoted from cottonm4:I stand corrected then. I have heard it from a couple of others that the Bally back glass was shorter. You are proof that the back boxes will interchange back glasses.
Your Galaxy cab looks fantastic !
I am also glad to see that I am not the only one who keeps a tool box in the dining room
And Rick and Morty. My friend has a R & M. That play field is so beautiful when it is lit up.
I currently have my Stars glass chilling in my friend's playboy while I fix the Stars cab, lol. Direct fit.
Is there any real difference between stern legs and bally legs? I've mixed all my legs around now and I don't remember what originally came with stern and what didn't (not that that would even serve as any guarantee that they weren't replaced at some point before that)..
20230709_090926 (resized).jpg20230709_090912 (resized).jpg20230708_212921 (resized).jpg20230708_213106 (resized).jpgQuoted from KSUWildcatFan:Is there any real difference between stern legs and bally legs? I've mixed all my legs around now and I don't remember what originally came with stern and what didn't (not that that would even serve as any guarantee that they weren't replaced at some point before that)..
Stern are the grey/bleu ones, the shapes are quite similar though i thought the ribbing was a little different?
Quoted from hisokajp:Stern are the grey/bleu ones, the shapes are quite similar though i thought the ribbing was a little different?
AFAIK these two "gray" ones are original stern legs, I'm guessing the single rib is just a bit higher than the Bally legs? Plus rounded vs squared inside? Otherwise they seem very, very similar. Pretty sure I'm having squared legs done in red for my Meteor. Whoops.
20230709_120852 (resized).jpg20230709_120911 (resized).jpg20230709_121100 (resized).jpg
//Edit I checked my Seawitch and Meteor and found that Witch had dark gray/square inside and Meteor had black/rounded inside. But I don't think it had these black legs when I bought it, IIRC it had gross/rusty "silver" legs that I've since powdercoated and sent off into the world somewhere. I have no idea what's what at this point, lol.
Does anybody know if it's possibble to get replacements for drop target coil stops and new plastic coil sleeves for Stern drop target coils? PBR doesnt carrry them and entering the Stern catalog part number gets me no hits at Pinball Life or Marco...
Marco has them just search generic coil tubing to get the right size I always replace the metal ones with nylon they are the same as Bally.
No idea on the coil stop though usually they're not worn.
Quoted from sethbenjamin:Does anybody know if it's possibble to get replacements for drop target coil stops and new plastic coil sleeves for Stern drop target coils? PBR doesnt carrry them and entering the Stern catalog part number gets me no hits at Pinball Life or Marco...
Here's what I've used in the past for coil sleeves from Marco, with good results:
I haven't come across the coil stops yet.
Quoted from djblouw:Here's what I've used in the past for coil sleeves from Marco, with good results:
[quoted image]
I haven't come across the coil stops yet.
I just looked up the Bally part #, A-613-99, but Google search didn't turn up anything. Is this part really just totally gone out of production? (I'm just assuming it's the same part for Bally as for Stern, or could be made to work?)
I just installed Wolfpack displays in my magic and each display has “11” on when a game starts. I have alltek mpu. Is it supposed to be this way?
Quoted from djblouw:Here's what I've used in the past for coil sleeves from Marco, with good results:
[quoted image]
I haven't come across the coil stops yet.
Quoted from sethbenjamin:I just looked up the Bally part #, A-613-99, but Google search didn't turn up anything. Is this part really just totally gone out of production? (I'm just assuming it's the same part for Bally as for Stern, or could be made to work?)
I have an old aluminum coil sleeve from one of my Stern drop targets. I also have another aluminum sleeve from one of my Bally drop targets. They are a match.
On Marco's website I have found the bracket opposite the coil stop.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/1A-488
The Marco link shows part number A-378 for the coil stop.
Following that link leads to this Marco page for the A-378
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-378
It also shows as being NLA.
Quoted from sullivcd40:I just installed Wolfpack displays in my magic and each display has “11” on when a game starts. I have alltek mpu. Is it supposed to be this way?
I think you need to clear the audits using the service buttons in the coin door.
My Stars tilts every time I hit a ball through the left spinner with significant velocity and therefore spinner revolution. The tilt happens as the spinner comes to a stop. Any ideas as to where to troubleshoot? Thanks.
Quoted from Flippingr8:My Stars tilts every time I hit a ball through the left spinner with significant velocity and therefore spinner revolution. The tilt happens as the spinner comes to a stop. Any ideas as to where to troubleshoot? Thanks.
What happens if you manually rotate the spinner?
Quoted from Flippingr8:My Stars tilts every time I hit a ball through the left spinner with significant velocity and therefore spinner revolution. The tilt happens as the spinner comes to a stop. Any ideas as to where to troubleshoot? Thanks.
Is the capacitor on the tilt bob present? If so, try clipping one leg off and see if that corrects it. The left spinner and tilt bob share the same switch strobe in the schematics (ST0, the first vertical column in the following diagrams)--even though they're on separate pages...the playfield switch matrix:
Screenshot_20230714-223650.png
...and the cabinet switch matrix:
Quoted from tatman9999:Any one have a pic of the wiring on a stern stars? Left flipper is not working after changer flipper assembly to style 2 . Was working before I changed them.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
wiring looks fine. You getting voltage to the coil? Does it work if you manually short it to ground? EOS nice and close?
Try filing/burnishing the EOS contacts. Hold the flipper button in and move the flipper up by hand. If it grabs and holds, that's your problem.
Quoted from tatman9999:Any one have a pic of the wiring on a stern stars? Left flipper is not working after changer flipper assembly to style 2 . Was working before I changed them.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Which way is the diode oriented?
I've had issues with some of the new closed EOS switches, where the switch is closed but the contacts aren't shorting. quick swipe with a burnisher and they work fine.
Quoted from GoldenOreos:I've had issues with some of the new closed EOS switches, where the switch is closed but the contacts aren't shorting. quick swipe with a burnisher and they work fine.
i believe i remember someone mentioning they sometimes have some kind of coating on them, quite wipe with naphtha made it better.
Taking a poll here,
How many would be interested in a repro set of the SEI coin door trim set? 2 or the 3 hole option. I myself am having a hard time finding them in good condition.
Quoted from Lovef2k:Taking a poll here,
How many would be interested in a repro set of the SEI coin door trim set? 2 or the 3 hole option. I myself am having a hard time finding them in good condition.
Yes very interested
Quoted from Tsskinne:Bringing this one back to life!
I'd never heard of FreeFall until your post. Just watched some gameplay of Yopp's restore on YouTube....now I want a project one! Added to my wish list...
You guys better both talk to dothedoo about how to make FreeFall better with his mod(s)
free fall is fun we have ours jacked so high I had to put a piece of plastic in front of wireform so the ball can lock and not fly off onto the playfield
Quoted from Lovef2k:Taking a poll here,
How many would be interested in a repro set of the SEI coin door trim set? 2 or the 3 hole option. I myself am having a hard time finding them in good condition.
They're so hard to find in ANY condition! Really the lack of availability of trim parts like that makes scratch-build cabinets kind of not worth the effort or price. So many coin doors are re-sold without them.
Quoted from play_pinball:They're so hard to find in ANY condition! Really the lack of availability of trim parts like that makes scratch-build cabinets kind of not worth the effort or price. So many coin doors are re-sold without them.
It might come to the point (gasp) where a person will have to consider using a Williams/Data East style coin door.
The Golden Eye cab that I am going to convert ( most likely Star Gazer ) has the Williams style coin door installed. It is smaller than the classic Stern coin door so opening up the hole to fit a Stern door is not an issue.
Making the coin door hole smaller on a Stern cab to fit a Williams style door would not be an issue.
Quoted from cottonm4:It might come to the point (gasp) where a person will have to consider using a Williams/Data East style coin door.
The Golden Eye cab that I am going to convert ( most likely Star Gazer ) has the Williams style coin door installed. It is smaller than the classic Stern coin door so opening up the hole to fit a Stern door is not an issue.
Making the coin door hole smaller on a Stern cab to fit a Williams style door would not be an issue.
I'm anxiously waiting to see how that one turns out. I had hefty dreams for that cab, but in my hands it was most likely destined to be more of a nightmare! 
Quoted from tatman9999:Any one have a pic of the wiring on a stern stars? Left flipper is not working after changer flipper assembly to style 2 . Was working before I changed them.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
About to install these style 2 flipper assemblies in my Galaxy. Anyone have any tips for lining them up correctly?
Quoted from Lovef2k:Taking a poll here,
How many would be interested in a repro set of the SEI coin door trim set? 2 or the 3 hole option. I myself am having a hard time finding them in good condition.
I would probably buy 2-3 off the bat, just in case I could never get another. Make it so!
Quoted from Lovef2k:How many would be interested in a repro set of the SEI coin door trim set? 2 or the 3 hole option.
Heck yeah!!
The coin door bezel (admittedly a more difficult part to make) would be nice to have on the market too…
Quoted from sethbenjamin:Heck yeah!!
The coin door bezel (admittedly a more difficult part to make) would be nice to have on the market too…
Yes. I could go for a couple of these myself. I prefer the two-hole style that did not provision for the Susan B. Anthony dollar.
Quoted from cottonm4:I prefer the two-hole style that did not provision for the Susan B. Anthony dollar.
I always kinda liked the Susan B. version since it makes it that much more of a time capsule…small matter though.
Quoted from sethbenjamin:I always kinda liked the Susan B. version since it makes it that much more of a time capsule…small matter though.
Good point.
Quoted from cottonm4:What happens if you manually rotate the spinner?
That was an excellent idea. So it turns out that isolated L spinner rotation doesn't cause a tilt. But a ball going upwards thru the L spinner and activating the 500 point rollover at the top of the arch while the spinning is winding down causes a tilt reliably. The 500 point rollover activated by itself doesn't cause a tilt either. I'm not sure of the significance of tilting with the combination of activation of those two switches at the same time but at least I can reproduce the problem. Ideas?
Quoted from frunch:Is the capacitor on the tilt bob present? If so, try clipping one leg off and see if that corrects it. The left spinner and tilt bob share the same switch strobe in the schematics (ST0, the first vertical column in the following diagrams)--even though they're on separate pages...the playfield switch matrix:
[quoted image]
...and the cabinet switch matrix:
[quoted image]
Thanks for your reply. See my response above to the other person who recommended that I try manually spinning the spinner to see what happens. Does the fact that the simultaneous activation of the spinner and the top-of-the-arch rollover being the thing that causes the tilt help diagnose the problem?
Quoted from Flippingr8:That was an excellent idea. So it turns out that isolated L spinner rotation doesn't cause a tilt. But a ball going upwards thru the L spinner and activating the 500 point rollover at the top of the arch while the spinning is winding down causes a tilt reliably. The 500 point rollover activated by itself doesn't cause a tilt either. I'm not sure of the significance of tilting with the combination of activation of those two switches at the same time but at least I can reproduce the problem. Ideas?
What happens if you hold the 500 point rollover switch closed and then manually rotate the spinner? Help me ID that 500 point rollover. What are the colors of the 2 wires on the 500 point switch?
Quoted from bluespin:I think you need to clear the audits using the service buttons in the coin door.
I had to re re-pin the bottom 4 connectors on J1 and it works.
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