Quoted from cottonm4:

I don't know why the cutout. I'm guessing it does not make a difference. Seeing and getting some sort of understanding of the lengths Stern went to save a buck, maybe Stern had some extra sheet metal laying around with a hole drilled in and figured out a way to recut this metal and make some useful parts. It is just a guess.

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The only thing I can see and say about the beat OG link is that the hole that slides onto the pivot shaft might be a little worn, it is not a precision part. All that happens is that the drop target makes the link drop down and activate the blade switch. On the left side with the point poking up, there is a little notch in that hook; All that is is from the link being pulled back up where it contacts/slams? into the backing metal of the drop assembly.
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To answer your questions, a little wear does not bother me, I would buy some of these if I was missing some. It is buried inside the drop assembly and out of sight. No one ever sees it. If I had one very rusted, I would sand it clean and slop a little spray can paint on; What ever color I had sitting around. Plating is nice but get the cheapest plating you can get.
I have a Bally drop assy. with the kinds of links you show, but I also have this Bally drop assy. And the actuator links have a very large hook on them.
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All that said, with the SEI drop assys. getting hard to find, any part for a Stern drop is a good part. Marco sells several pieces that can be used to build a SEI drop assy., but not all of the parts available. I would think there would be some people who would like to have some of these.
See what others opinions are. John Greatwich knows a lot of what is happening with the Marco inventory.
You might want to contact Marco and see if Marco would stock them.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=drop%20target&VIEW_SIZE=60&VIEW_INDEX=2&view=card&sortOrder=SortKeywordRelevancy
EDIT: My SEI parts catalog
[quoted image]
shows the style of link that is in the bottom of your pic with a part number of 1A-491. But this blow up pic of the drop assy. is the early style of drop with the switches on the bottom. With this style, the drop target itself activates the blade switch that has one of those nylon nubs attached to the blade.
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Quoted from Lovef2k:

Thanks for your detailed reply.
So now I now the hooked link is only for rear mounted switches. I just don't know if the part number was changed. I bought some hooked links from PBR about 10 years ago, as seen in pics. I will have to back and look at the invoices to see what part number they used. Interesting about the extra notch, but makes sense. My Seawitch has brick patter cab floor, so yeah, cheap.
As far as wear. When I go through the trouble of rebuilding a mech, I want the newest and parts I can find. OCD. True, it's a cosmetic thing, but does the wear cause any reset issues?
As far as the wear, true they usually work fine. I was only concerned about the reset. Would correct adjustment of the A-375's prevent this? Or does the reset rely on the links getting slammed up into the grooves of the back plates?
As far as making a bunch of these. I did think about Marco. It will depend on the cost to make them compared to what Marco will sell them for. They have the A-491 listed for $4.99. It will probably cost me close to that just make each one, so I don't know if it will be worth it.

Quoted from 20eyes:

I made a bunch of these a while back if anyone needs some.
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I also have a pile of used original ones I just put new ones on when I take apart the mechs. As far as the notch cutout some mechs had them and some didn't not sure why.
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Quoted from 20eyes:

Stainless steel. Correct I made both, no real reason for making both. I made the Bally and Gottlieb ones also mostly because I can and I'm too cheap to buy it if I can just make it. After I went through a pile of mechs I found one with the notch so I just started using those because why not. I don't know if it serves any practical purpose but it adds clearance when the target is in the raised position.
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Quoted from hisokajp:

here are the repro pop housing/base from PPS (white) next to an original Stern (bleu), pretty much copy confirm
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Quoted from Lovef2k:

Do you have a link for these?

Quoted from vec-tor:

Note:
Data East, Wico contracted "pop bumper"/"thumper bumper"
1) 1st generation = black base... many small changes to the way the switch assembly is installed...
2) 2nd generation = yellow base Simpson,Batman etc.
3) 3rd generation = blue base LW3, Star Wars etc.

Quoted from hisokajp:

ok so i tested those in game and the big holes for the pop ring leg are narrower, likely for teh metal style so to use the plastic pop ring i had to drill them a bit bigger. easy enough and works well installed.

Quoted from vec-tor:

Note:The odd shaped one [key] is O.E.M. style for the coin industry back in the day.
1) The jagged edge part is tobe facing right [center "V" slot facing down][coin door]
1a) Nobody really pays attention to how the keys are to be installed.

Quoted from cottonm4:

I did not know you could still buy these cable clamps. All nice and shiny white. No 40 years worth of nicotine staining.
[quoted image]
The source
https://shop.hillmangroup.com/ccrz__ProductList?operation=quickSearch&searchText=clamp&cclcl=en_US

Quoted from snyper2099:

"MAXI" brand blanks. Those are cool as hell. I also try to keep original keys for my games (or find the correct era) for each game, when I buy them... especially for the heads.

Quoted from PinFixin:

For a classic stern lockdown bar receiver. It doesn't look like any parts can be disassembled minus the spring. How do you guys hammer spray paint it? Just cover the whole thing? And one coat? I'm concerned the paint will stick on the sliding parts making it difficult to slide back and forth?
Also, finally found a Data East Playboy lockdown bar receiver. It is >>>>EXACTLY<<<< the same as the one for my hot hand. I think this was already documented, however I thought I'd say it again.
-Pat

Quoted from play_pinball:

Don’t toss it. It can be repaired or turned into a needed Nine Ball spinner.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from play_pinball:

It’s a broken spinner I had in a box of parts. Originally off Fun Land.

Quoted from vec-tor:

By part # Gottlieb
A-11254
1968
Fun Land, Fun Fair, or Fun Park.

Quoted from cottonm4:

I saw this show a gew years ago. I thought this one with the side tanks was idiotic.

Quoted from 20eyes:

I have had some requests from people to buy these so I finally decided to set up a shop to officially sell them. Hopefully I have it all set up right.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1475-20eyes/07810-classic-stern-drop-target-reset-link
If/when I ever make another batch of these I will probably just make the ones with the notch rather than make both seems pointless to make both.
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Quoted from cottonm4:

I got a new tool from Amazon the other day. I got tired of buying batteries for my label maker so I got this.
amazon.com link »
" Wefomey 120W Universal Power Supply Adjustable DC 4V ~ 24V Variable Switching AC/DC Adapter 100V-240V AC to DC 24V 5A Converter with 14 Tips & Polarity Converter - 5000mA Max"
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3 batteries in a battery holder work fine for checking GI but this is sweeter. I don't think I would have bought it just to check GI lights, but since I have it, why not?

It comes with an assortment of all kinds of adaptors. Plus the adaptor I was able to install a pair of test leads into.
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Quoted from cottonm4:

The heavier spinners spin longer. So, juicier spins.
Of the spinners I have, the MPU 100 pins such as Dracula, Hot Hand, and Nugent weigh 27 grams.
My Big Game and Seawitch spinners weigh 33-34 grams. I have several other Stern spinners coming at 34 grams; I have 3 spinners that came from a Cheetah but I do not know which ones they are.
There was a time not that long ago when I thought all spinners were the same.
That Williams spinner that Marco says weighs 1.5 oz is equal to 42.5 gram. And I question Marco's 1.5 oz statement on its site. I do not have any Williams spinners to verify this, though.
I have some Bally spinners that come in at 38 grams. They spin very well.

Quoted from jj44114:

They all had these under the coin box. They were white but got oversprayed I’m some cases.

Quoted from slochar:

Sand it down?

Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Hey I know where that’s going! Wonderful job. He’s going to be very happy

Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

I have been using these. They look a little different but work good.
uxcell 100 Pcs Nylon Push-in Style Standoff PCB Support Spacer 5mmx3mm https://a.co/d/0Iu7KqW
The larger end will fit into the support bracket if you work it a little bit. I basically install them upside down for the Classic Sterns.

Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Nothing like that. Just twist them back and forth with some pressure applied. Using them on my current build now.
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Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

By the way, I now have two Star Gazers. Mine has the original reproduction backglass while the new one is the Coos mirrored glass. They both look great. I would say the mirrored one is better but it is also more expensive. You really can't go wrong.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Tsskinne:

I have a question for stern group here. I delivered a scratch build star gazer a couple weeks ago. The new owner sent me a message tonight about a hole potentially missing a post near the drain. I looked at my Dracula and it does have the post. I looked at my Stars and it doesn't. The Meteor that we used as a donor did not have the post. My Dragonfist did not have the post. I did not install one in my first scratch build Star Gazer two years ago, and looking through the Star Gazer thread it does seem that some games have it and some don't. So anyway my question is what is the purpose of this post and is it necessary? If so I want to make sure to get him the correct post to place in there although it just seems to be a 6-32 machine screw with a metal sleeve essentially. Anyway help us out and solve the mystery of the purpose of this post! Thank you. -Tommy
Hole in question.
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Random Star Gazer
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My first scratch build.
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Donor Meteor
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Dracula with post
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Stars with no post
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Quoted from NeilMcRae:

Hell yes

Quoted from NeilMcRae:

Yeah that’s on our list to fix, game is in our lock up - hoping the flipper mechs haven’t been butchered!

Quoted from northvibe:

Slochar is right[quoted image]

Quoted from cottonm4:

And still use a blocker key in the connector?

Quoted from tatman9999:

Picked this up today to go next to dragonfist, stars, big game , now I need a quicksilver. Star gazer came with 2 new playfields.
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Quoted from tatman9999:

Anyone know the color of stern legs and coin door? Want to repaint them.

Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Hammered silver Rustoleum is the best color if you are looking to spray paint the legs and doors. Powder looks great and in a nice upgrade. This is my goto color.
https://www.tiger-coatings.com/us-en/shop/show/39-90980[quoted image]

Quoted from splattii:

Thanks but I'm looking for the standup/static target assemblies like the following pics (yellow square targets, common looking circle targets below/right);[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from cottonm4:

A stand up target is a stand up target. They will interchange.

Quoted from cottonm4:

You can knock down the target face rivets with a small ball peen hammer and a center punch. One you get the rivet flared with the punch you can tap it on down with the ball side of the ball peen hammer.

Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Ok this might be some of the issue. It does have a nvram in it

Quoted from Its_me_aj:

It was well worth the try

Quoted from Tyamry:

What is better to buy for a Ali with LEDs, an Allteck MPU or a WEEBLY? Or is it just preference?

Quoted from barakandl:

They save me some time which is the major bottleneck. All through hole stuff is done by hand soldering, so anything that can be reasonably changed to a smt part i usually go for it.
I typically include a tooth pick to manipulate the dip switches with. They are roughly the size of a SOP16 chip.
I just recently updated the replacement mpu's combo rom with every public custom rom I'm aware of.

Quoted from Ollulanus:

Anyone know a specific part number or have a link for the through-the-playfield bolts for posts used on 80s sterns? The ones that run upward through the playfield, hammered flush to the bottom. Got a couple on this lightning that are stripped and having a hard time finding them.

Quoted from Tsskinne:

Just use electrical tape on the other trim and on the glass itself. It will fit and hold and not scratch anything up.

Quoted from gdonovan:

Thinking about running off another batch of vinyl cut decals, let me know if you are interested.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from cottonm4:

Which parts are you speaking of from 40 years ago before China manufacturing entered the mix?
AFAIK, one company, Ravenswood, made transformers for Bally and Stern. And while I don't know, it seems that pop bumper parts and slingshot parts would have all been made by one company that would have supplied parts to the industry.
I have a selection of Bally and Stern drop target assemblies. The Bally units have a better quality of zinc plating on, but other than that, I see no difference in the quality of the drop assemblies' parts.
I have observed when comparing my Stern's general assembly practices to Bally or Gottlieb, or Williams, that Stern slopped these pins together---no close tolerances were observed. I have had posts mis-located, lamp socket holes mis-located, flipper bushing holes in the play field mis-located, etc.
But the parts from pin to pin to pin all look the same to me. There is wire, lamp sockets, pop assemblies, drop assemblies, and sling shot parts. They all look the same to me. What am I not seeing?

Quoted from chuckwurt:

I don’t know about this. It’s cool, but I’ve gone through two separate walker mechs and both have issues with not walking the balls properly, and two balls get stuck in one position and have to be manually freed.

Quoted from Lovef2k:

Question, coil j25-475 I have has CL-200 under the numbers and has orange wrapper vs the yellow. Any difference?
[quoted image]

Quoted from chuckwurt:

CPR I think. But it’s the mech that has issues not the slots in the playfield. The fingers bind up.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Thanks. The one I had and now my buddy has and is getting ready to sell. I’ll try that.

Quoted from cottonm4:

I need to check what diameter of wire I have been using. The smallest stainless welding rod I can find is .045. I think I have been using .047 piano wire.
Will stainless wire forms hold their shape?
I'll have to go down to welding supply had see what I can find.

Quoted from cottonm4:

Cool.
What kinds of tools are you using to make your bends?
I have figured out how to mod a nut and bolt to make a good wire bender and this has helped with accuracy in my bends. But it is not without a couple of challenges.

Where are you finding 4-position memory drop targets at?
AFAIK, Galaxy is the only Stern pin to use 4-position memory drop targets. I suppose you might locate a 5-position Trident drop target to modify but still no easy task.
Modifying, or trying to modify, a standard 4-position drop target would be a Herculean task. How do you make this mod?

Quoted from Lovef2k:

For you restore guys like me. Stainless coin door bolts. You can get a mirror finish on these with a Dremel and rouge.
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/carriage-bolts/thread-size~10-24/
1 1/4 long for Stern coin door and side rails.

Quoted from vec-tor:

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/carriage-bolts/thread-size~10-32/
Pinball uses 10-32 cut threads.

Quoted from Quench:

You should consider using polished stainless steel carriage bolts to accessorise the chrome coin entry bezel rather than matching the hammertone door