Quoted from bluespin:
For Seawitch and Quicksilver there is a dip switch to turn off the background noise. Meteor probably has it as well. Check your manuals.
Stock meteor roms do not have the ability to turn off the background sound.
Quoted from Shapeshifter:
I have asked this question, in more detail in the catacomb thread but figured I would see if anyone here has an ideas for the issues I have.
In a nutshell, every time a drop target bank is completed, the game adds 20000 points.
It also adds it in the bagatelle.
There isn't even anything in the game that awards 20000 points!
Any clues from anyone?
I realise it has done it the whole time I have owned it and for last owner, looking at their high score.
All of the drop banks do this? Can you pull the roms out and verify them in a burner?
Maybe you have a different version of the roms than what's commonly available.
Quoted from DRDAVE:
Dracula, Trident and Wildfire could use the chime treatment.
So glad Stars was made with chimes instead of that glorified cash register MPU100 sound board
Trident does not have enough solenoid circuits to run a chime box a custom driver board would have to be manufactured and added to j5.
Dracula and Wild Fyre conveniently are the exact same romset and do have space for a chime box. Can you test the roms once written? You'd wire up the chime box in the exact same configuration as Stars. Nugent will be under test soon but if you can test that as well too.
Currently Nugent just replaces the sounds with the chimes - there's no start up chime tune or anything yet. That can be added later.
Quoted from frunch:
Where is everyone buying flipper rebuild kits from? It seems the kits i bought from pinball life for my Seawitch 4-5 years ago are already starting to wear out. I began noticing at some point the flippers weren't moving back to their resting position sometimes. After trying a bunch of stuff, i swapped over the flipper mechs from my Nine Ball and that fixed the problem. Not sure if anyone else has had this experience with pinball life flipper rebuilds for these games, but it seems like a fairly short life span for the parts. Maybe that's par for the course these days, though.
The PBL flipper kits seem to get magnetized really easily. At this point I recycle other copper coil stops from the pop bumpers and put the steel ones there; a long time ago Marco was selling a plunger that was correct (it was some gottlieb part for about $2) but they're sold out. PBR had some links on their specials page and I bought a pile of those.
Not sure what's up with the PBL kits but there's something off on them - slam tilt was talking about having to drill new holes in the plate as it was in the wrong spot.
Quoted from rollitover:
Used to be 'ya couldn't spit and not hit a galaxy.
Now where are they?
-Nice "outer space" trio btw.
Galaxy was always the "turn it over at will" game.... so I decided to make it really, really, hard, as in hair tilt, bottom guides turned around so you hit rubber (down the middle!), pull the outlane posts. Now, I don't get anywhere near 800k even.
I only bought it as a package deal to get Stargazer... fully planned on selling the galaxy but ended up keeping it. Seller wanted to move both games I knew at the time Galaxy would be a tough sell for him so I made sure I got there early and bought both... he got multiple (higher) offers on the SG but no one else wanted the galaxy....
I think I actually have all of the stern outer space games, stars, meteor, galaxy, flight 2000.... did I miss any? I guess Orbitor 1 - I don't miss that. If I had space for 229 games, one would be an Orbitor, but not before that.
Quoted from Chalkey:
Still battling airballs from my seawitch center drop bank. I put it new drops and a new rubber and it still occasionally flies up. Looking at this is the rubber at about the appropriate level? Just higher than the center of the ball? Should I try mounting the drops farther back so there's less space between them and the rubber? There isn't a lot of play in the mechs or the posts but I can try to justify them together as much as the screw holes allow. The drops are about exactly level with the PF.[quoted image][quoted image]
You get airballs from the lower flippers or the upper left one? The upper left one is supposed to have a resistor to drop its strength way down - and cause a nice burn mark under the playfield. Much better way to reduce its power is to have the end of stroke switch open up WAY earlier.
I don't get the crazy airballs on mine that people see to get necessitating the protector on the plastic behind the flipper. I think ONCE a ball went up there in over 15 years of ownership??
Quoted from Chalkey:
Lower left mostly. Occasionally one from the lower right or upper left which is what makes me think it's more a drop geometry issue than flipper power. That said, nothing would shock me as it has 3 Williams bats and the lower left is actually a bally mech with the longer metal shaft and the original stern coil. I have the parts to do rebuilds on all 4 flippers including the appropriate bracket / mech eventually.
I've been trying to analyze if it's hopping a cupped insert or anything and can't see anything obvious.
My uppers are Bally linear mechs which I think helps if anything since they're inherently weaker.
It seems about 50/50 with some seawitches airballing and some not. Mine has landed on top of the upper left flipper but it always rolls off. I think I have the taller posts under that plastic right behind.
The other thing that might be a factor is my game has the angle aluminum playfield stiffeners on it - pretty sure not all stern games got those. This causes the PF to sit a hair higher in the cabinet (assuming the rails in the cab are the same between all games) - so maybe that's JUST enough that the ball just doesn't fit on top of the plastic.
Quoted from bluespin:
The coils on the lower flippers on Seawitch are J-25-475/34-4500. The upper flippers are J-25-475/34-4500 to reduce the power to: prevent breaking the center bank drop targets and to prevent airballs. Some people over the years installed 475s in their upper flippers as that was all they had on hand at the time, and that is too much power for the upper flippers. I'm wondering what coils you have in your upper flippers.
You do realize you listed the same exact coil part #'s for both, right? 25-600 would be the top - and still too strong. The drop bank is RIGHT THERE after all.
The power resistor was stock for Meteor for sure so when that was rebuilt I got rid of the resistor and just adjusted the EOS. I recall SW being the same, but haven't looked lately (even though I just replaced all the lamp sockets I was kind of just focused on that).
Quoted from cottonm4:
Mine has the short posts and the plastic rests directly on the orbit guide to keep light leaks from happening. The top of the plastic at the upper left flipper measures 7/8" below the edge of the cabinet and 1 1/4" below the top of the stainless cabinet rail. The taller posts are probably why you don't have the ball landing on top of the plastic. Do you have light leaks around your plastic?
I never really thought about light leaks I'm tall so the angle is going to be different anyway. There's no blinding going on if that's what you mean.
Quoted from cottonm4:
The stiffener will have no effect on how the play field sits in the cabinet. It sits inside the play field support "Z" brackets.
Sure it does - there's rails on the side that the sides of the PF normally sit directly on. Add a piece of metal to that junction and it's going to raise the PF up that much. The Playfield hanger brackets will still be the same profile either way, assuming you mean the ones in the front. Does your game not have the full length wood rails on the cabinet? If it had some kind of metal offset bracket I could see the stiffener not mattering, but that's not the case in mine.
Chalkey was the one getting airballs, not me. I'm just describing to him what might be different between the games.
The tall posts make the plastic sit up a hair above the metal guide; so what? Light leakage is minimal. Doesn't matter anyway because the profile of the guide doesn't match the plastic anyway.
The part that sits higher with a stiffener vs. not is the wood rail part in the back, not the bracket in the front. It's merely the thickness of the guide but I have seen games that usually have the stiffeners not have them (and lack of screw holes indicate that they never did). So the playfield will sit lower at the top of the cabinet vs. the ones that have it.
It just seems strange that some people have airballs and some don't.
The top flipper bats are bally, too, if that might have an effect. An old trick for airball-yness was to flip the flipper rubber inside out if there was some cupping or something causing it although I've never had to do that. I think that's more of an operator trick to extend the life of the rubbers.
Quoted from cottonm4:
So what? Relax. I was not trying to turn this into a competition. Just offering my opinion, which agrees with yours, that the taller posts probably prevent the ball from rolling on top of the plastic.
I do not understand what you are speaking of? What wood rail in the back? Which Stern cabinet are you looking at?
You don't have wood rails at the side back of your seawitch so you can slide the playfield up and rest it up against the head?
Quoted from pinwhoo:
I count 33, but what do you consider classic? I did count EM's. I didn't count Cue, Hypnox, Laser Lord, and Pentogram.
I imagine some people would count Gamatron as well, but that's a little nebulous. Cosmic Princess is missing from the list you posted that's probably how.
I would have considered the collection 'completed' if I'd gotten all the mpu-100 and mpu-200 games, including Cosmic Princess, and the unique EM's. (i.e. Pinball in SS OR EM would have satisfied by definition of compelte).
Quoted from chubtoad13:
The inlane ball guide on both my Stars and Stingray pop out at the top on occasion. Does anyone have a good fix for this? It only happens on the left. Both right guides seem like they are solid.
Are the mounting holes hogged out? Those guides have to be TIGHT. Fill it and drill it.... slightly smaller than the diameter of the guide, then tap it in with a small mallet.
Quoted from Tsskinne:
I had a Nvram.weebly board in my dragonfist with similar behavior, wouldn't get past the second flash. Swapped in altek board and it was back up and running. I haven't bothered to take a look at the nvram board yet.
I do have weird behavior from my upper right drop target bank. If I knock down say just the lowest drop target, but don't clear that bank and then I drain. On the next ball even though the targets all reset if I hit just the top two the bank will act as if though it has been cleared and reset and award me the bonus X for that bank if it is lit. It could be any of the drops in that bank as well not specific to the lowest one, and it doesn't seem to do it all the time either. I have tried different versions of the code, different boards, my switches are well adjusted and I've replace the diodes on all of those switches as well...
I'm guessing I'm just left with connectors at this point but wanted to see if anyone else had a similar experience by chance.
Hmm that might be a software bug I've noticed something similar before on DF. It's probably not clearing the flags correctly. Does it ever happen in a multiplayer game and if so does it stay on the same *player*?
That's the cheapest that Marco has that will work I just use this type in all my games if I'm not just replacing the contacts. Sometimes I take the stack apart and put it into the original stack so I won't have issues with spacing but most of the time this one works out of the box.
You won't find an "original" replacement so if that's important to you, get the contact like vec-tor says.
Quoted from HHaase:
What an odd design.
Bally probably designed the board in sections, or used manufacturer reference circuits and that was the easiest way to link it together. The jumper fix has been SOP for many years now though but I admit I'm lazy too and don't always implement it when I go through a game (depends on how bad the SDB is in it)
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:
I don't think the widebody DE bars fit classic Stern games. The bar is a different length and the "tangs" are placed in different positions.
It won't if the tangs are in the wrong spot. The lockdown receiver on classic stern tab style lockdowns is the same between the widebody and narrow body it's just mounted in the middle and they made the lockdown bars by cutting regular bars up on an offset and joining them together.
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