(Topic ID: 225496)
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Ali
Stern Electronics, 1980-
Big Game
Stern Electronics, 1980
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Catacomb
Stern Electronics, 1981
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Cheetah
Stern Electronics, 1980
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Cosmic Princess
Stern Electronics, 1979
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Dracula
Stern Electronics, 1979
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Dragonfist
Stern Electronics, 1981
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Flight 2000
Stern Electronics, 1980
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4 weeks later
Quoted from Tsskinne:Anyone out there have a lockdown bar they can sell that will fit a Seawitch?
Man, with how many lockdown bar posts I’ve seen and being new to the club. Maybe we need to find a metal fab shop that can make some?
3 months later
I grabbed a stern galaxy a few months ago, and just started to finally work on it.
I repinned/connector’ed the whole harness, just a few left to do. Was going to build the woldpac displays, and then see how bad the boards are. The power and rectifier are the new goal to figure out and redo. Little bit of a mess.
Is the huge heat sink with rectifier and a relay hanging off, is that the gi flasher Feature for attract mode?
64F25338-AC21-4F9E-83EE-9EBB08B21C27 (resized).jpeg70B1727D-4316-460E-9C1F-621C98998E23 (resized).jpegDA8952FD-A3A5-4CBD-B6AE-2F42FDC15A3B (resized).jpegQuoted from HHaase:That power switch is why I started making switch covers for these. Live AC voltage at those terminals whenever the game is plugged in, and nothing stopping you from touching it with your fingers or tools when working on other stuff.
Quoted from slochar:There's supposed to be heat shrink tubing on the power switch which would at least be a LITTLE protection. I have used various things over the years to protect the switch.
Regarding the Galaxy picture, that's the GI flasher yeah, but it looks like someone added a bridge rectifier to the circuit for some reason. IIRC it's just supposed to be a relay switching the AC that normally goes to the GI lamps.
Yeah, I don't know if that is the right switch etc. But the cover you made HHaase, was on the list as that is kind of scary to think of touching when its on.
OH so that giant heat sink and BR are addon? ok cool. I have the manual and schematics from marco, but I didn't see too much on that relay or rectifier board. I have a new rectifier board, but need to repin and connector all those as you see. I didn't realize until reading up on that board, last night that the solder on the rear off the transformer was normal.
I've only played a Stern Stars, and it was enjoyable. I've missed on a stars and a few meteors so I saw this and couldn't pass up a Stern Electronics game. Not sure how fun it is, but hoping to find out soon.
Quoted from cottonm4:Galaxy is not high up on the "want to have" list, but I have read on pinside that with some mods that Galaxy can be a fun player. I don't know what the mods are, though. I have played it at TPF. It can be fun to play.
Probably because it has a lack of drop targets? Well worst case is I sell the game. But stars was fun to play and it’s always fun to have a game in the collection that is unique from the norm.
2 weeks later
Quoted from rotordave:Whooooah!
This doesn’t look good!
rd[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Whoa nasty! you and me have some similar hacks to reverse on our power boards
Quoted from frunch:Thanks guys! I was thinking of doing that but i figured if anyone had a bolt laying around i could get the info from them. I try to minimize the amount of backglass removals as much as possible
I need to get some of these as well! If you have the full bolt info, size lengths, thread etc post up! I’ll be at the hardware store this weekend I suppose!
Quoted from cottonm4:Maybe. That's one of John's white arrow play fields. You just got it. Is is clear or unclear?
Don't you like it?
On face page he said he sold his seawitch
Quoted from tatman9999:Just got 2 sterns last week[quoted image]
Whoa nice! Going old school 
2 weeks later
Quoted from northvibe:I grabbed a stern galaxy a few months ago, and just started to finally work on it.
I repinned/connector’ed the whole harness, just a few left to do. Was going to build the woldpac displays, and then see how bad the boards are. The power and rectifier are the new goal to figure out and redo. Little bit of a mess.
Is the huge heat sink with rectifier and a relay hanging off, is that the gi flasher Feature for attract mode?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Repin of the harness in the head is done and most plugs in the cab now. The rectifier board plugs I just repinned tonight but was curious, does anyone make or know where to get the bracket that holds the relay? I think it’s the relay for GI? Next to the transformer and the rectifier.
2891A65C-EAC4-4545-808C-0C5FF266EE17 (resized).jpeg7E22F3CE-9FC8-4A13-A02C-E029A7E40738 (resized).jpegIs there a "better" way to install the wires on the back side of the rectifier board, or is it just, solder the wires onto the back like stock?
Curious if people made a whip w/ a plug and then pin the transformer whip side. As much as I love tight spaces and wire harnesses, it seems it could be done better.....
2 weeks later
Quoted from HHaase:That power switch is why I started making switch covers for these. Live AC voltage at those terminals whenever the game is plugged in, and nothing stopping you from touching it with your fingers or tools when working on other stuff.
Sooo I was testing galaxy last night. Got power to the rectifier and wasn’t sure about the power switch.... after that lovely feeling I ordered your cover
Quoted from HHaase:LOL I may use a version of this post in my advertising from now on.
Glad you're ok though, that's the important part. The first time that 120vac hits you it can be an interesting experience.
-Hans
Hahah, yeah it wasn’t the warm fuzzy feeling I was going for, knowing my game had power... :-p
Quoted from mappy_mouse:Have done the same thing, except 220-240V gives you a lovely kick. Did it twice in 1 hour before I walked away for the night.
ouch! Yeah, I would of ran away for the night 
3 months later
So I had a webpage tab open on my phone for months with a picture of the rectifier board back and it had all the wires labeled etc. This was from Steve Kulpa's website. I went to save that picture today to put it in my archive and now the website is gone and thus the picture is gone. Does anyone know what I am referring to? anyone have that picture or similar? I didn't see one on Clay's site. I tried the web archive but no pictures were saved it seems.
Thanks! not sure what was going on, no pictures were going. Oh did you use an older date? I think I used the one in late 2019.
1 week later
My Galaxy came without the bee hive plunger. I have a new bee hive but what hardware and what’s the install look like for that? Not sure if I’m missing something else but it doesn’t seem intuitive.
Quoted from TheLaw:It s just 2 screws from the cabinet....as long as you have the metal piece for the cabinet they go through
Quoted from hisokajp:that metal piece
[quoted image]
Do we know what screws? if no part number, is there a thread and length?
Is there a bushing used or just the bee hive and plunger? It came with a gottlieb plunger :/ so that may have to do for now.
Thanks!
Quoted from hisokajp:the Beehive is the sleeve, the repro i got weren't quite right though, I ended up having to file/sand them a little larger.
all screws look to be #8, bottom two into the cabinet 1/2" and top 2 into beehive 1" long.
Awesome! Thank you. I’ll hit the hardware store
Quoted from Tsskinne:Not sure if this has been shared yet but Pinball Life is now making classic stern side rails.
https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-stern-stainless-steel-side-rail-set.html
I just ordered a set to use on my star gazer build. Let everyone know how they fit.
HA, I JUST saw those yesterday and thought....weird are those new? nice! hope they work!
What nails are used on the side rails? like 1/2" twisted ones?
Quoted from cottonm4:Here is a tip. Forget the nails. Get some #4 1/2" long stainless sheet metal screws. They look nice. It is long shot that you would ever need to remove the rail, but if you ever need to remove the rail you will be glad you used screws instead of nails.
I got the idea from HEP.
pan head, or flat head? I think the pop cap ones are flat head.. I have a few nails on my galaxy backing out and bent. figured I could pull those and tap or screw in replacements.
3 weeks later
thought I would post as I just saw this in a thread
Stern Receiver
https://mantispinball.com/product/stern-receiver-old/
Now, we just need lockdown bars remade
4 weeks later
Quoted from TheLaw:Ahhh it's not an official teardown until hou get a drywall screw. Mission accomplished!!
Haha oh man. A few sheet rock screws. Then some odd plastic “fixes”. I should post pics. The clear layer must of broke so they took spacers out and had the art plastic be the guide. The galaxy curve shot was blown out and some cut tube was the guide, lol.
When the game is in attract mode, I see lights, sound and relay gi. So it’s a start! Player 3 display is not working, player 4 seems to work but goes on/off. When I switched plugs p3 and p4, then that display stayed lit so not sure why p4 would blink unless I need to check harness pins. I was thinking of going led displays...unless fixing the 1 can be done with some cheap parts.
Quoted from cottonm4:That style kicker is Stern specific. I you can get different style replacements. But you may have to adjust the placement of the new unit and drill some new holes
Hmmm! Thank you, maybe I’ll try to find a stern kicker first and if no one has one I’ll look at a replacement. Is there any pictures of someone who installed a new version?
Looks like PBL has been making new parts, maybe we can get them to make the stern kicker. Is it the same as a bally of that same era?
Quoted from slochar:Nope, not even close.
Gottlieb ones have the correct looking profile on top, but the underneath is completely different (better, IMO, since it can't twist)
hmm. That makes things complicated.
What is the typical post screw used? I think I measured mine and it will probably be this one?
DE-530-501002 @ http://www.pbresource.com/postscrew.html
Need to get new hardware and the spacers...those are kind of interesting. I see some random ones at Marco, is that the usual?
spacer / sleeve sizes I measured
1" tall x 3/8" OD
1 1/8" tall x 1/4" OD
1/2" tall x 3/8" OD (short gray ones for plastics)
I saw a few in other sizes on PBR and I see marco has some like this:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/254-5000-01
Is there like for sure replacement ones people get?
Sorry I should of updated. A MN pinsider had a kicker off a parts pf, so I snagged that. Thanks everyone! I’ll get that swapped and post pics
Quoted from cottonm4:I have communicated with Kerry at Mantis. This morning I sent him a sample sling lever. Now we wait and see what he says he can do and for how much.
Yup, I'd be down for a few to keep around.
Quoted from cottonm4:Thanks.
If we could get an economical fix for the transformers, with the classic Stern play fields being produced, and the back glasses, too, it is amazing to think of how many of these classic Sterns could be built up new.
Would it be feasible to swap in pf's of other sterns that use the same board sets? I wouldn't mind having another PF of a game to swap in and change things up. I do have all the alltek boards in now.
Quoted from cottonm4:I don't see why you could not do that. But now you will have a Nine Ball with a Seawitch back glass.
did they place the displays in different locations for each game? it is like pin2k or p3, just swap some things around and have a new game without having to have multiple cabinets
Quoted from cottonm4:Yes. And Catacomb is a completely different animal.
Ah, then unless you just dealt with the backglass, or left the locations but created new translite to keep the art...seems like a cool idea but some work. I would still think having a few pf's would be a nice swap over to try something different, but also understand the issues there.
Looking to replace my screw/posts/studs.
I went to the HW store and found the #6 1-1/2" (first one in pic on left) But wanted to verify the other two.....
The middle screw looks like a round/pan head wood screw but 1-5/8" (can't find)
and the far right is the wood screw post that looks like a bally part but out of stock, so it could either go with the DE version or the gottlieb one? thoughts?
IMG_9680 (resized).jpgQuoted from Zzap:Might want to get some tape over that blue wire
hahah yeah, I need to. I don't play this game, it is still being worked on. I'll probably unsolder and shrink tube both connections.
On mine, it looks like the ribbed one (hot) is on the right as shown in the pic from Completist
Quoted from Completist:Double check (test which conductor is actually Hot from the line cord) - but I think the ribbed conductor is the neutral. This is where my differed from Vid's pic. I wasn't reusing the line cord since someone cut the ground prong off, so I just made sure the hot was ultimately going to the right spot as quench mentioned.
I'll have to double check the cord. But I did test continuity from the right side line of the filter to F6, based upon the picture above. But from my pic it looks like the ribbed is on the left, haha. Yes I can see how this gets confusing. I'll have to check the actual plug, then the wires on the filter and can validate.
Quoted from Quench:Getting hard to find now.
You're looking for 25k ohm, 500mW logarithmic (audio taper) potentiometers.
None of the big electronic guys have them anymore.
You could try one of these - probably worth getting a suitable knob for it too:
ebay.com link » Alpha Potentiometer A25k Audio Taper Pot
Confirm with them that you're getting "A25k" pots which are logarithmic, and not "B25k" which are linear. You don't want linear because the volume wont adjust proportionately.
Wasn't there also "electronic cleaner" spray you could spray on and turn the pot to help clean the contacts? Or am I thinking of something else.
Quoted from woody76:I have heard of people dropping alcohol on it and spinning it back and forth for a bit.
Quoted from Quench:Yes, like woody76 said, you can use alcohol to clean it.
I actually open them up to clean them and also retension the wipers while I'm there.
Ah ok. I'll take mine apart and check it out. Mine current goes from quiet to loud kind of quick.
Perfect, I think I have CRC Electronics cleaner in the garage! I may just take it apart though and see how it is inside too.
Quoted from cottonm4:Kerry at Mantis has received the Stern sling shot lever that I sent him. He is aware. We wait.
Are there other/more parts we can try to get repro'd as well? They may not sell thousands, but with the popularity increase, now is a good time to ask and try!
A fellow pinsider got me a replacement kicker arm for my galaxy, but after installing I realized the fiber joint section was odd and it wasn’t moving nicely.... are there ways to cut/template or replacement parts?
Right side with issue
26C99CD5-020C-4142-9598-E7A4CEC92E16 (resized).jpeg
Left side without issue
82A207C8-54F9-42CA-B2E0-2DD0959F3006 (resized).jpeg
Edit: not sure what “stock” should be but the right side looks like the fiber was installed backward...and now it is kind of messed up
Quoted from Chalkey:The the bakelite piece out and see what's binding. The plunger fingers probably just need to be spread out a tad if they're pinching it. Or just might need cleaning on the pivot points.
It looks like the fiber or Bakelite piece is backwards, so the flat side is on the pf side and the plunger comes out too far, at least that’s what it feels and looks like. It even may be that some broke off on that side...
Quoted from Chalkey:Yeah on closer look the tip of the bakelite piece came off. Getting a whole new plunger might be easiest but I think you might be able to get just the bakelite from PBR.
Yeah, I think you're right, the back side looks broke.
PBR sells the material in a strip to cut your own:
p/n: MAT-LINK @ http://www.pbresource.com/tools.html
PBL sells plunger w/links but is it the same as a stern flipper or williams one?
https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-stern-plunger-link-assembly.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=plunger%20and%20link
Quoted from Classic_Stern:This is the Galaxy I just Sold. It was upgraded to 7 digits, all new clear plastics, MPU200 flipper style and the coveted S-plastic. You can see the changes in post layout to make it much more difficult and with the butter inlanes it makes it flow like magic.
[quoted image]
What is the S-plastic?
Quoted from cottonm4:Your fiber is not installed backwards. The lever was not installed at optimum position at the factory. The lever and bracket have been install too bar inboard. The pivot point for the lever/fiber is way beyond the the axis of the plunger.
1) Reposition the lever bracket so the pivot point is directly under the plunger axis. You will get mush smoother plunger action
2) And get rid of that silly spring washer. It does not work like it is supposed to. You don't need it.
[quoted image]
The right side is the one I thought may be backward at first...but after comments and looking more. It seems broken. That left side one you quoted the pic of, yes, the E clip is missing and it does look off doesn't it. I'll back off the pivot and then align it straight! Thank you
I measured the plungers and they were 2-1/8". I'll order those for both kickers as the left one that is not broke, has some wear that may break it soon.
Quoted from Classic_Stern:If you look at the Galaxy playfield you can see a plastic that is formed to block the ball from going up into the left corner. By the collect Galaxy loop. We also have designed these for Seawitch on the left flipper to not thrash that plastic. We don't sell these yet.
[quoted image]
ahhhhh, now when i look closer I can see what you are referring to. I circled them in orange, in the attached pic. You going to sell those S blocker things? I ordered a new set of plastics, wonder if the new clear protector near the flippers extends to the flipper.....
galaxy (resized).jpgQuoted from cottonm4:And now the ordering parts process begins. Lemme see, I don't want to pay $9.00 shipping for two $3.00 parts. So I will order some more stuff to spread the shipping cost. Oops. I just placed my order and I forgot to order this other part, too. I'll need to make another order. Lemme see, what else do I need....
Do it this way: Have your sling shot parts up to snuff with all working smoothly. Then move that kicker bracket around and manually operate the kicker and plunger. You will find a sweet spot where the kicker, plunger and link work smoothly at full travel. That's where you want to be. Do all of this with out that washer. Then put the washer back on if you wish.
LOL. I'm already on my 3rd or 4th order between PBR, PBL and Marco for parts...one of those. I should just need these, then that i just the top side, now the underside needs this...then you get deeper, ohhhh I need more... yup. probably paying more in shipping than I paid for the game :-p Um not too bad but PBL doesn't do USPS atm so fedex/ups is minimum $15 shipping :/ sooooo mind as well order up as much stuff.
Quoted from Classic_Stern:$10 dollars - I would replace on my current games.
$20 dollars - If I needed them. Might keep 1 set in stock. (I have some on parts playfields, loose though)
$25 dollars - Starting to feel it in the wallet
Thanks for doing this.
Same. I have 3 on galaxy!
Quoted from Classic_Stern:$10 dollars - I would replace on my current games.
$20 dollars - If I needed them. Might keep 1 set in stock. (I have some on parts playfields, loose though)
$25 dollars - Starting to feel it in the wallet
Thanks for doing this.
Same. I'd be down for a couple on hand no matter what, but obviously at $10, I'd buy maybe 4 or so to have on hand.
HA - semi double post days after
Quoted from cottonm4:I have one more question. Kerry and I have been discussing this:
Pinball Life already sells a bracket that will work with the Stern lever. I told Kerry that I could see no reason for him to reinvent the wheel and make something that already works---with a minor modification. One hole in the Pinball Life bracket has to be filed/ground out to allow the Stern lever to fit.
Are you all cool with that or does he need to make the bracket, too. I see no reason for it, but that is my opinion only.
Where are you all at on this bracket biz? Because the one in the picture will work.
[quoted image]
Cotton, those brackets look pretty close. Where on the PBL bracket, what is needed to modify?
IMG_9757 (resized).jpgQuoted from cottonm4:You have the smaller 16B-3 transformer. I can see the "3" stamped on top.
The larger -6 transformer measures 5.3 inches/ 134 mm across. The smaller -3 measures 4.5 inches/ 114 mm across.
As you now know, it will play with the -3 unit. But it will play better with the larger -6.
I thought you restored an original Quicksilver so the -6 should be there. However, two of the classic Sterns I bought had the smaller -3 transformer swapped into them; So anything can happen. Both played just OK. I put the larger -6 inside and the change in play action was noticeable.
Were the smaller transformers in a certain generation or board set of game vs the larger?
Man, it is so interesting to me learning all of this stuff so thank you everyone for posting information!
Looking to put my galaxy back together. It was a basket case of odd repairs to keep it going it seemed. From what I think, it should be like this pic. With playfield, a spacer, clear plastic, spacer then plastic with art. Some of the pieces I removed were clear on the pf, spacer, then art plastic. Some where, spacer, clear and art plastics together.
Thoughts?
galaxy spacer post (resized).png
EDIT:
I see from my pic in this post about this. The rear left clear plastic is separate from the art plastic, so the method of my question is for the in-lanes and the GALAXY scoop shot and I bet that is a yes, so I'll do what I thought!
2 weeks later
Quoted from slochar:Pinball resource has the later plastic version on their specials page. Yeah, you have to put the link into your plunger, but that's not really that hard.
Quoted from vec-tor:Did you try a Gottlieb link? Pinball Resource has them
Ya for the roll pin just tap it most the way out, swap parts and tap it back through. I did this for a gottlieb sys1 flipper rebuild.
PBR does sell the fiber board in sections so you can make your own arm. Otherwise I think they sell a plunger w/arm and you just need the right length
Quoted from cottonm4:That is 22 pairs of a lever/pivot bracket "kit".
I just sent an email to Kerry. If are getting here late, put your desires in and be counted.
I’ll get 4
Quoted from KevinCPR:NEW RELEASES
Stern STARS Reproduction PLAYFIELDS
Stern STARS Reproduction PLASTICS
Some of you have been waiting years for these - another one of the old CPR Boutique Zone playfields has emerged! This playfield only collected a few dozen names across 3-4 years, but now it's viable to produce under our current production model.
ALSO - STARS Plastics are now released as well, so along with the STARS Backglass we've had out for a while, complete restoration "Trilogies" are possible under the traditional CPR Bundling policy. Take plastics or backglass (or both) with your playfield shipment - and get $60-off and $70-off each, respectively. Plus savings of combined shipping, rather than buying and shipping separately later on.
First playfield batch has emerged from clearcoat as of friday, ready for shipping now. A second batch is close behind, making its way through clearcoat among the most recent production load... they are about 3 weeks away. We'll see how these go, and decide if and when to produce more in the long term.
The PLAYFIELD can be found in the Playfield section of the web site, with Bundle Configuration Tool for combo-shipping glass or plastics.
The PLASTICS can be found in the Plastics section of the web site, for those who just want to replace smashed plastics.
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-playfields/stars-kit/
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/stars-2/
Thanks
KEVIN
Classic Playfield Reproductions
http://www.classicplayfields.com
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
That is awesome to see!
Quoted from cottonm4:I think your ball guide is mis-located. Some good straight on pictures you ld help to see.
I have new plastic set and one of my ball guides doesn’t seem to fit right, I have to push the plastics up to get it to screw in :/ should I slot the holes or just push the plastics
Quoted from cottonm4:How about giving me some pictures so I can see what is going on?
IMG_0028 (resized).jpegIMG_0029 (resized).jpegIMG_0030 (resized).jpeg 1 week later
My galaxy had small nails but they seemed like they were bridging the gap from plastic inlane to the flipper and just holding the flipper up :/
Ordered wolffpac displays for galaxy and just a couple things to finish so I can button it up!
Question about galaxy. When shooting rhat upper left loop to the kicker, when the ball does go up, it can rattle at the top and bounce back out before going to the kicker... normal or should I adjust that middle guide plastic out
1 week later
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:Thanks, makes sense - and thanks for reminding me about the clearance so the arm doesn't strike the pf!
Nate
The e clips on those arms, are they 1/4”?
Here is one issue on my galaxy, when I hit the “galaxy” shot, it bobbles around at the top and falls out.
Quoted from play_pinball:What sizes are the lane guides on Galaxy? I can’t match the part numbers in the manual to anything.
here is what I found when I was taking apart my Galaxy
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/classic-stern-galaxy-club-from-a-time-before-we-had-guardians#post-5757451
Quoted from play_pinball:Thanks! I didn’t know if I should be measuring the total length of the lane or the post hole lengths.
haha, had the same thought and just pulled the trigger on some replacements from PBR and they fit great.
1 week later
Quoted from Classic_Stern:What is the sensitivity on these speakers.? Typically measured at 1watt/3 feet.? That will help understand. I would shoot for something over 90db unless yo u are upgrading the output transistor to the 13watt one. I think stock is roughly 4 watts.
I was just basing it off this
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-6-inch-speakers-found
It doesn’t blow my socks off I was just joking but figured I put so much new crap in I figured why not
does anyone have a file to print, for the stern 16b-6 transformer wiring instructions that is stapled behind the transformer?
Quoted from Poida:Should find it here
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/
omg yes, thank you. I forgot Inko did those! I just started to scan and clean it up so this will save me hours!
So I’m about to put galaxy at my parents and there’s no free play but people said to put the replay level super low.... I have alltek boards in but those manuals and the game manuals don’t really go in on how to change the replay? I saw one where you open the coin door and press the test button 6 times, is that it?
Quoted from cottonm4:They do not have a replay setting for Sterns. The Alltek replay works on Bally's only.
Here is how I do it. I set the coin slots to award 14 credits with a push of the button. You can load up to 40 credits on the classic Sterns. And I keep a few quarters in the coin box area. When I run out of credits, I load a coin, add more credits, and keep on rolling.
Ahhh ok, that was my backup plan, perfect! I’ll do that. Always fun to drop coins in. I did see someone mod a switch to the coin return to credit up and I mode that but not sure I’ll have time to do it
Quoted from hisokajp:depending on the Stern, you can set replay level at 10k/20k/30k so pretty much creating a "free play"
Ya, I’m just having a problem finding this change. When I opened the coin door to try and click the test button 6 times nothing happened
Ok, I did what you guys did and found a way to add one quick n easy. I'll post my pics! Just need to throw some staples on some sockets and test it.
This is a stern galaxy, not sure if coin doors changed on different games.
So I used a random leaf switch I had, with one screw and nylon lock nut. I have it in the J slot a coin mech would go in, facing down for the coin return to hit. Just put some electrical tape on the back side of the switch and bent it toward the front of the coin door. I put it on the middle dollar one and when I have it set to 14/1 it throws a ton of credits on
Switch with screw and nylock nut
90BDDA23-36BE-437E-AE6D-6CD88D5FF49F (resized).jpeg
The J hook part this will sit in
F1E44891-07E2-4733-9C6B-4FCEA636AE9D (resized).jpeg
Test fit
99414CAC-D30D-47CA-89B0-02C557749CED (resized).jpeg
Done
1F2D6D24-B72E-4167-AAA2-42E4EF3DD967 (resized).jpeg
1D2A6601-E062-4EF1-B7D5-06D230637A45 (resized).jpeg
Ok separate issue.
My left sling is machine gun shooting.
So when I had the game before it was missing the e clip for the arm. So it would fire but pretty weak. I got a new eclip, and also new plungers for each side sling. So I have a new plunger and spring, new eclip and now it fires nice but keeps firing. Almost seems like the rubber is loose and bouncing the switches open/close over and over.
Anyone have this issue? Should I put a tighter rubber on? The main switch has a diode and the second has a cap. Same as other side.
Edit: just manually held the rubber and activated, the switches seem very flimsy so yes the newly rebuild mech is bouncing the switches open close so it continues to fire. If I push in and pull the rubber out it only fires once per normal.
The stock switches look like normal switches: can I just use stiff/new switches or is there another recommendation
Quoted from cottonm4:You just need to work on adjusting your switches.
Many "roll" the top their rubber side of the switch toward the inside of the play field to get fast sling action.
2 solutions
1) "Unroll" the rubber side of the switch
or
2) Turn the pin off. Take a small screwdriver and shove it down into the middle if the switches and push the outside switch back. You just need to to get the switch contacts a little farther apart. Do this lightly. If you push the switch contacts too far apart you will get lousy sling action.
Ah ok. The switches "look" far apart so didn't know if it was different. I'll monkey with the switch gap then. Thank you, I'll work on that and post results.
Quoted from cottonm4:Here is what you do. Pull your sling plastic for easy access. When your sling starts machine gunning, take a small screw driver of a toothpick and pull one of the outside switches back to help isolate which switch needs adjusted.
I told you to turn your pin off for this. You don't need to. You can pull the sling plastic and pull the outside switch back and adjust it while it is hot. Just lower screw drive into the switch blade gap and pull back. But a lot of times your screwdriver will make a connection and make you jump.
Cotton, you were right, while the front blade is more flimsy the rear blade is not. I did tweak the rear blade back a little and now it plays great. Also took the time to clean and tweak the other switches that were finicky.
Doc got the galaxy spinner decals in today too, so this baby is ready! I'll be selling the stock boards and displays if anyone is interested, as well.
Quoted from BorgDog:So, I've been thinking this for a while, and my thought is to redo these machines in MPF (or SkeletonGame) and truly build them from scratch using P3-ROC (or FAST or OPP or whatever) new off the shelf mechs and such. The big thing that is missing from off the shelf is the drop target banks. I've been thinking of trying to design an expandable DT mech in say 1, 3, and 5 unit sizes that could be stacked together to make 2,4,6, 7.. banks and could be configured with or without individual drop coils and my idea that started it all is that targets could be swapped out with ones that have tops (above the playfield part) that are made like classic Stern, Gottieb, Bally, whatever you want. basically a universal replacement drop target mech for any machine you could think of and would be great for homebrew as well.
So far thinking is as far as I've gotten on this plan. Anybody feel free to take my idea and run with it.
hmmm could almost do it like the metal electrical boxes that can screw/click/tie together to expand. Or just a 3 bank with 1 side that can expand to go 4, then 5? I like this idea.
Quoted from cottonm4:There is no magic bullet for you. That is the worst screw in the world to access.
You have to remove one of the coin release bars. It is not hard. You have to remove 2 "C" clips that hold the bar to the pivot points.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Then you need to remove the two screws that attach the coin chute to the master frame. You will probably have to remove the chute, as well.
[quoted image]
Then you need to remove the bracket that holds the lockout coil.
[quoted image]
There is also a lockout bar that may cause you headaches. But I can't remember.
Then you have to remove the entire frame assembly. And then you can access your screw.
[quoted image]
It is not hard, but it a PIA. Take LOTS of pictures !
Thanks cotton, ugh when I get bored soon at night, I’ll probably do this haha. The screw is out and isn’t letting coins fall in...it’s driving me nuts
Quoted from cottonm4:Try coming in from the other side and try to shove a small tie wrap on the empty hole. Maybe you will get lucky.
But can't you use the other switch to roll up credits?
Oh I can, and the middle is set with the coin return credit up. But leaving it is just making me nuts
1 week later
Quoted from hisokajp:Most people just replace the top trim with a plastic one, i do not think you can find a reproduction of the original one nowadays.
like from a new stern?
I think mine is missing and I just want to make sure its covered up.
https://www.pinballlife.com/backglass-top-trim-for-stern.html
Quoted from hisokajp:right, but double check the length though.
by my crappy measurement it should be ~28" wide but nothing else is that wide... new stern is 26".
Quoted from Methos:As I am replacing my boards with allteck and nvram weebly reproductions, what are you guys doing with all of your old MPU boards? I'm assembling a large collection. Not sure what to do with them.
I also have a set of boards from my galaxy and displays I was looking to sell, but since galaxy was my first entry into bally/stern games. I dont know what the stock stuff is worth either...
LISY35 is also a MPU/cpu DIY option and he has a fpga (not pi) version for quick boots but no editing. The lisy uses a pi to control, so you could make changes to things if you wanted.
lisy35
https://lisy.dev/lisy35.html
ballyfa
https://lisy.dev/ballyfa.html
you can get the board made, parts and cpu's for well under $100 total and just build yourself. Looks like the led displays are in prototype as well.
1 week later
Think it was this thread, someone said replacement mpu boards run different than stock.
So I had my galaxy and just put allteks in to get it playable while I did the kits the the original boards. Selling galaxy so I figured I’d try the original boards and wow, ya, a lot different noise wise. I mean it was noticeable, not in a bad way, just different.
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:What would cause some sounds to disappear from a Classic Stern? The end of game sounds on my Quicksilver have vanished (and possibly one of two others). I thought it was cable issues (and it still might be), but after giving them the once over, everything appears to be working ok, except the end of game sequence sounds. Any thoughts on how/why it would happen?
The game never wants you to stop playing..... sounds like a twilight zone episode
Quoted from cottonm4:I replaced the sound board capacitors in my Nine Ball and starting news sounds. Recommend to replace your caps.
https://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/
Can’t recommend enough to refresh the old boards with new parts or kits like BDE or GP has. I did all my galaxy boards with the kits and used my solder station and a nice solder sucker, these old through holes are pretty easy to diy!
Also the sound cables, if your game has those, get new ones.
1 week later
Quoted from play_pinball:Well one successful spinner redone. Thanks tractordoc for the decal upgrade!
[quoted image]
Ha! Nice, I just installed my galaxy spinner too! Glad Doc sold a few already
2 weeks later
Quoted from cottonm4:Oooooh, I like that you added the light wires to the Molex connector. I am going to have to redo mine to match yours. Nice !!!
Yeah, I was going to say, that is pretty smart
speaking of switch issues. I have a question for you guys while were on the subject.
My galaxy had all alltek boards and worked 100% that I was aware of. Added a switch for coin up to the coin return button as well to add credits.
I used the BDE/GPE kits to rebuild the original boards, installed the original boards. Game functions and plays but when I ran out of credits, I could not coin up. The coin up credits dont do anything, but if i press the middle one (coin return button as well) The left kicker for the galaxy shot fires.
Do I look at the switch matrix and do the column x row lines to that switch? I can take video if that helps as well.
Quoted from dothedoo:Is your new switch isolated from the coin door? It sounds like it’s shorting.
would the alltek boards, ignore that? I will go look to see about switches etc, but I don't get how a switch would fire a coil unless it was bridged. However I am unfamiliar to the wiring/boardset.
1 month later
So my galaxy schematics show two different wire/color coded for the coin mechs. On my galaxy when I drop a coin it may fire the galaxy kicker or not credit up. Anyone have a pic of the wiring? My game came literally cut all over. So I was piecing together as best I could.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg 2 years later
1 week later
Putting Magic back together, and I'm only getting 6v at the coils.
Does the power for coils come right off the rectifier board?
Test points on rectifier board are good but If above is correct, is there a place to see what voltages should be at that plug?
Quoted from northvibe:Putting Magic back together, and I'm only getting 6v at the coils.
Does the power for coils come right off the rectifier board?
Test points on rectifier board are good but If above is correct, is there a place to see what voltages should be at that plug?
holy moly. It was my fault, when repinning J1 on the rectifier board I DIDNT READ the pin 9 thing.... ugghhhhh. Moved the pins over and most coils work now.
Quoted from joetechbob:Pin 9 thing?
Quoted from slochar:most replacement rectifier boards have 9 pins to be compatible with the bally games (all 3 of them) that use an extra pin for extra lamp voltage. All the other games that use the -18 style rectifier board use 8 pins here.
Personally when I put one of the new boards in my games I don't install that 9th pin at all. No reason to if you don't have a Kiss, Future Spa, or Space Invaders.
Slochar is right
Screen Shot 2023-07-26 at 3.40.14 PM (resized).pngQuoted from Lovef2k:And if header pins are pre-installed I cut pin 9 off to iliminate confusion.
Yeaahhh I should have, didn’t even think about it.
I did find my outhole switch not registering. Diode tests good. So I’ll probably repin that on the mpu connector side and see if that fixes it. Then it’s time to put it all back together!
7 months later
Getting a Stern Magic up and going, it has the barakandl MPU, otherwise original.
When it boots up, p1-4 show 00 and the credits show 10, then when it shows last high score the credits window changes to 6, and then back. However it seems to always credit 10. I can press "credit/start" 4 times, power off game, power back on and the credit window is back to 10. However, we did flip dip switch 20 per manual However, that shows credits and is free play. If that is off, then no credits show. wondering what may be going on..... Game is configured correctly for MPU 100 and cosmic princess/magic.
In switch test, the switches test fine.
Quoted from Mathazar:I'm not familiar with the barakandl MPU....is there a "clear NVRAM" or similar function? When I've come across similar behavior on Allteks, clearing the Alltek memory (setting a dipswitch to the "Clear" value, powering on then off, then returning the dipswitch to the previous setting) usually works for me.
I did click the "reset" button, which rebooted the mpu. I also thought something similar as sys1 gottliebs do some weird things when the ram needs to be reset.
Quoted from Mathazar:Resetting the MPU and clearing the memory are two different things. I looked up the board - see the switch settings below to clear the memory. Here's a link to the full PDF:
https://nvram.weebly.com/uploads/5/4/2/5/54255141/bally.combo.2023.12.03.pdf[quoted image]
I saw that on the site and it mentioned mpu200 but i'll try it for this as well.
Quoted from Quench:You're running my Magic code.
On power up if the credits are zero in freeplay mode, the code will auto stuff a value in there and this value is configurable between 0 and 15 (10 is the default). It's the last option in the software settings at the end of the audits.
In freeplay mode there is an option to do the typical subtract one credit per player when you start. Or it can be optioned to clear the credit display so it's blank when you start a new game. Any credits you earn then get displayed normally. In freeplay you will never see the number zero in the credit display. I personally use this option because sometimes I like to see how many credits I can earn in a game - this value is even shown in the credit display as a 'highest credits to date" when the highest scores are shown.
On barakandl web site scroll down to the "Magic 2021-10-30" custom ROM document for details about configuration and other enhancements.
https://nvram.weebly.com/custom-rom-info.html
Any questions, just ask.
I JUSR REALIZED THIS! Hahah. I did grabbed and have him burn your code on. So turn off dip 20 and it should be fine?
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