(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)

By Gerry

7 years ago


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There are 4959 posts in this topic. You are on page 89 of 100.
#4401 8 months ago

I've had a Counterforce (System-80) with a 1F memory cap.
It lasted for a year before losing the memory info.
Works perfectly.

#4402 8 months ago

I use the 1.5 uf from great plains electronics.
It is in my volcano and i have used it in my other Ss games.

Capaitor (resized).jpeg
#4403 8 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Yes. All the grounding on those games is done within the connectors. It’s my understanding even the modern boards don’t add the common ground that the mods do. They are still needed.

Is there any way to know where to connect the ground wire to the modern boards? Pinwiki page just has the pics showing original boards.

The MPU has some signs of a previous mod maybe? See pic.

589F4AE9-7366-4B56-AA5A-7AF940C9BDD2 (resized).jpeg60C05E47-A2F5-454E-B1C8-93BA56338666 (resized).jpeg
#4404 8 months ago
Quoted from slochar:

Don't forget to mod the under playfield driver transistors as well if your game uses them with the pull-up voltage, it's more common to get locked on under playfield transistors than on the driver board IMO. (This is NOT referring to the pop bumper driver board ones - it's for the ones that are on little L brackets that use a lamp driver instead of a solenoid driver to run.... for instance on black hole there are a couple to fire various kicker coils like ball release, the tube exit, etc.)

See pic. The part I circled is NOT what you are referring to i, I think. What is the part I circled? Pin is James Bond 007.

49283FD9-F23B-4407-A59A-F56FE23AF4E7 (resized).jpeg
#4405 8 months ago

Those are your switch matrix diodes.

#4406 8 months ago
Quoted from slochar:

Those are your switch matrix diodes.

Thanks

#4407 8 months ago

Any other Gold Wings owners have problems with the playfield, with the gold colored pieces ?

The seem to fall out ?!

Looking forward to your replies..

FTN

#4408 8 months ago

We just found out we have a very early The Incredible Hulk System 80 in our shop. Does anyone have any schematics for the boards? We would like to preserve this and get it up and running. #1443, and #1447 are shown in IPDB.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#4409 8 months ago

PinballOrphanage I thought, The Incredible Hulk is a System 1 game.

#4410 8 months ago
Quoted from RDBowers:

pinballorphanage I thought, The Incredible Hulk is a System 1 game.

They built 10 prototypes using the system 80. Look at IPDB under The Incredible Hulk Game #500
They show pictures of the SN of 2 of them as #1443 and #1447 mine is #1440

#4411 8 months ago
Quoted from PinballOrphanage:

They built 10 prototypes using the system 80. Look at IPDB under The Incredible Hulk Game #500
They show pictures of the SN of 2 of them as #1443 and #1447 mine is #1440

Interesting! I learned something tonight.

I did notice a discrepancy on the IPDB page. There are 3 serial number represented. The second serial number stamped over the shooter gauge is 01442S, not 01443S and described in the notes. Currently there are no units registered at IBSND http://www.ipsnd.net/View.aspx?id=5350

#4412 8 months ago

Post some cabinet/guts pictures when you get a chance!

#4413 8 months ago
Quoted from RDBowers:

I did notice a discrepancy on the IPDB page. There are 3 serial number represented. The second serial number stamped over the shooter gauge is 01442S, not 01443S and described in the notes.

Hmm... We were given images by three different people and their serial numbers, listed here in the order of their image appearance:

01447 S - images of shooter lane number and backbox number.
01443 S - image of backbox number only.
01442 S - image of shooter lane number only.

I updated the Notes to hopefully make this clearer.

But, are you saying that the game having 01443 in its backbox is the same game as the one having 01442 on it shooter lane?

Jay

#4414 8 months ago

Incredible Hulk #1440S

hulk 002 (resized).JPGhulk 003 (resized).JPGhulk 007 (resized).JPGhulk 008 (resized).JPGhulk 010 (resized).JPG
#4415 8 months ago

Wow! That is so incredibly cool. Love little tid bits of info like this.

Curious, are the sounds the same? One of the things I miss about The Incredible Hulk is the hilariously out of Hulk character, delicate, arpeggios of the sound card. Thought it was so damn funny every time.

#4416 8 months ago
Quoted from I_P_D_B:

.
But, are you saying that the game having 01443 in its backbox is the same game as the one having 01442 on it shooter lane?
Jay

I have no knowledge of the games. I wasn't sure if there were photos of three machines or two, with one machine having different serial numbers on the backbox and the lower cabinet. I only noticed the reference in the text previously noted the serial number 01443S being stamped above the shooter gauge but the photo showed 01442S.

The revision you made makes sense if these were photos submitted for three different machines. https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=5350

#4417 8 months ago

Interesting that this game has a grounding plane.
Must have proven too expensive for production games.

#4418 8 months ago

This is the sound board clearly showing sn 1440 and the sound chip of 500.

pasted_image (resized).png
#4419 8 months ago
Quoted from Luzur:

Even the prototypes? man, thats like, the dream for me LOL
Btw, was there someone who was making Gottlieb SYS80b MPU's? i remember vaguely reading about it but i cannot remember who it was and if they where ever finished.

Also the LISY products.

#4420 8 months ago

I have a NOS translite in my Robo-War I wanted to preserve, so I took the JodyG approach and grabbed a 6500k LED replacement. Here was my approach:

I clipped out the ballast and starter, and unceremoniously tossed them in the trash.

Since the replacement LEDs use raw 120 VAC from the connector, and only require it from one end, I left the original wiring mostly in place, and used a wire nut to connect the two clipped ones from the ballast—so that power is routed to the left-hand side. Nothing was left connected to the right side of the lamp holder.

This kept most of the existing wiring in place and makes for a clean install. No other modifications were necessary. Everything else was untouched.

Overall, I think this is a mandatory conversion for these games. My only qualm is that I think 6500k is too blue. I’ll probably grab a 5 or 4000k replacement to emulate the look of it being backlit by incandescent bulbs.

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#4421 8 months ago
Quoted from RDBowers:

I am looking to replace battery packs on my System 1 machines (Cleopatra, Sinbad and Count-Down) with memory capacitors.
I see lots of posts about using 1F and 1.5F, 5.5V capacitors going back several years. As I understand it the capacitance (1 or 1.5F) is a measure related to charge of a capacitor. Therefore a capacitor with a higher capacitance rating would keep the memory circuit charged longer. As an example 2F capacitor will hold twice the charge of a 1F capacitor and keep the memory circuit charged for twice as long. Is that correct?
I am considering using a 2.2F capacitor (https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/kemet/FG0H225ZF/4290880) so it will keep the memory longer. Any comments or suggestions?

I know the 1f caps can go for some time before losing charge on a sys1.. I have not tested it, but at least a few weeks and I have never lost my settings.

I guess test and let us know.. it seems sensible with regard to the leakage rate and so forth.

#4422 8 months ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

(...) I took the jodyg approach and grabbed a LED replacement.

(...)

I think this is a mandatory conversion for these games.

Agreed, 100%. I think the original fluorescent tubes are the main reason for the original translights of the system 80s to fade.

Pro-tip: if you install one of those led tubes that can rotate to face any direction, turn it to face the opposite direction (so towards the boards). This way, the translite only gets indirect light. The light is spread over the translite more evenly and makes it less bright, giving the image much better contrast. Also works great in Stern games from the zeroes.

#4423 8 months ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

I have a NOS translite in my Robo-War I wanted to preserve, so I took the jodyg approach and grabbed a 6500k LED replacement. Here was my approach:
I clipped out the ballast and starter, and unceremoniously tossed them in the trash.
Since the replacement LEDs use raw 120 VAC from the connector, and only require it from one end, I left the original wiring mostly in place, and used a wire nut to connect the two clipped ones from the ballast—so that power is routed to the left-hand side. Nothing was left connected to the right side of the lamp holder.
This kept most of the existing wiring in place and makes for a clean install. No other modifications were necessary. Everything else was untouched.
Overall, I think this is a mandatory conversion for these games. My only qualm is that I think 6500k is too blue. I’ll probably grab a 5 or 4000k replacement to emulate the look of it being backlit by incandescent bulbs. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I did the same in Raven and Genesis, but was getting wierd (to me, without a manual) AC readings from the fixture in Raven, instead I ran a wire to the power switch for 120v, worked like a champ once I figured out which side of the switch was the right tap.

#4424 8 months ago
Quoted from Jappie:

Pro-tip: if you install one of those led tubes that can rotate to face any direction, turn it to face the opposite direction (so towards the boards).

Awesome tip! I did this, and the contrast in the artwork is significantly better. Probably doesn’t need a warmer bulb now.

Quoted from pb456:

but was getting wierd (to me, without a manual) AC readings from the fixture

I also got odd readings from the connector (around 138VAC), but I figured it’d be fine. I’m not concerned. So far so good.

#4425 8 months ago

Hi, I've recently restored an Incredible Hulk and she was working fine but now for some reason after 20mins or so the 25v 5amp (4th one, second from the left) keeps blowing. When this happens the ball kicks out to the rail and I lose all score screens. I've done the grounding mods and the power supply is getting and sending the proper power. Any ideas why this happening besides a short somewhere. Ive replaced all the playfield bulbs with original bayonets bulbs but the black Glass has a few leds. Could this be causing the issue?

16
#4426 8 months ago

Was incredibly lucky to bring this one home this weekend. Still in disbelief. Found in a basement of non-pinball collector, whom randomly went into an amusement company's shop in the mid 80's and picked it up on a whim.

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#4428 8 months ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

Was incredibly lucky to bring this one home this weekend. Still in disbelief. Found in a basement of non-pinball collector, whom randomly went into an amusement company's shop in the mid 80's and picked it up on a whim.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

whoaaa amazing find, congrats!

#4429 8 months ago

Question on System 80 (Black Hole) PSU board repair.

I noticed, when repairing via the PinWiki guide, there's a trace running from R11 to Q3 2N6287.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80

What I'm wondering, since I ran a continuity check, and that pin of Q3 is not shorted to ground, what was this mod used for?

NOTE: I used yellow/black wire for the ground mod per the PinWiki guide, this was not on the original board as I received it.

PXL_20210216_015646783 (resized).jpgPXL_20210216_015733377 (resized).jpg
#4430 8 months ago

Update: figured it out, thanks to CHibler. Errant jumper as there must have been a bad connection at one point.

#4431 8 months ago

Hey guys. Picked up a Rocky before Xmas. It’s a project, missing backglass, legs and the boards are toast.
Never owned a Gottlieb before so every days a school day.

I’m vlogging my journey as I go.

I do need some assistance with some photographs if anyone can oblige?
I need pics of the wiring from the coindoor.

My coindoor was missing and was hacked about to a start button added to the cabinet. Also this coin counter board thing.
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I was wondering if someone could post pics of how there coin door is wired and the wire colours so I can figure out how to wire it in to my new coin door. I have sourced a system 1 door with a different loom.

I’d also appreciate some pics of the wiring to the drop targets as I have lots of loose wires hanging about
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If you zoom on the red circles you’ll see the bare wires. I wonder why they were cut and where they go?

Here’s part one of my vlog. I’m up to part 4 now if anyone is seriously bored.

Any assistance greatly appreciated
Cheers
Gaz

#4432 8 months ago

Any suggestions where I can get a PCB edge connector housing for a System 1 tone board. I checked the Molex catalog and their Edge Mate 9 connector housing (172159-0209) and the contacts are grouped 3-4-2. The System 1 tone board is grouped 3-2-4.
PXL_20210216_032000177 (resized).jpgScreenshot 2021-02-18 104627 (resized).jpg

#4433 8 months ago
Quoted from RDBowers:

Any suggestions where I can get a PCB edge connector housing for a System 1 tone board.

Not sure if the one listed here has the dividers or not.

https://www.docentelectronics.com/httpdocs/AmusementGames/Pinball/Gottlieb/System%20One.htm

#4434 8 months ago

It is a completely different type of connector but could work.

I was thinking I could use the Molex Edge Mate 9 connector housing (172159-0209) and make some modifications.
Option 1: cut the board between the 7th and 8th connection so the divider fits
Option 2: remove the divider on the connector housing between the 7th and 8th contact.
Any other options? or recommendations?

Ideally, I still would prefer to find the right connector.

#4435 8 months ago

Did you check great plains electronics? He has 9 pin edge connectors in stock. May not be what you are looking for but worth a look.
Also, if you are repinning, what is wrong with the one you had? Is it missing?

#4436 8 months ago

Also, Ed is an excellent guy to deal with and his advice is priceless.

#4437 8 months ago
Quoted from FTN_Ferry:

Any other Gold Wings owners have problems with the playfield, with the gold colored pieces ?
The seem to fall out ?!
Looking forward to your replies..
FTN

Yup, I have had 3 goldwings so far, gold on playfield is always worn, I used gold acrylic paint, touched up, and made vinyl decals using a silhouette cameo cutter comes out looking very nice

#4438 8 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

Did you check great plains electronics? He has 9 pin edge connectors in stock. May not be what you are looking for but worth a look.
Also, if you are repinning, what is wrong with the one you had? Is it missing?

A previous owner replaced it with a chime so the connector is gone.

I will contact Ed G-P-E for his advice.

#4439 8 months ago

Proper connector would be Molex 09-01-6091 but those are gone.
I do have a few 09-01-7091 remaining. Same plug but with mounting flanges. The mounting flanges can be real easily cut off.
See here:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=77

Talked to Molex about why they would discontinue a still somewhat popular 2574 connector series and replace it with a new and incompatible 172159 series. Their only answer was "I don't know". Turns out the demand for this new series is lower than demand was for the 2574 series. Asked if they could start these up again - answer: "not a chance".
Pinball wasn't the big consumer of these. When these were still made, I had a couple larger customers routinely special ordering up to 5000 at a time. With quantities they were buying - I'm not sure why they came to me for them when they could have gone straight to Molex ... but I was glad that they did.

#4440 8 months ago
Quoted from 80spit:

Yup, I have had 3 goldwings so far, gold on playfield is always worn, I used gold acrylic paint, touched up, and made vinyl decals using a silhouette cameo cutter comes out looking very nice

Me too! I 2-part auto cleared mine...I think the gold I used I had mixed at the auto paint store.

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#4441 8 months ago

I had forgotten how colorful that playfield is

#4442 8 months ago

Looks very nice with the gold touch up.

But how do you fill in the gap in height? With epoxy? Or else?

FTN..

#4443 8 months ago
Quoted from FTN_Ferry:

Looks very nice with the gold touch up.
But how do you fill in the gap in height? With epoxy? Or else?
FTN..

2 part auto clear evens things out. The little dimples get filled with an eye dropped.

#4444 8 months ago
Quoted from JodyG:

Me too! I 2-part auto cleared mine...I think the gold I used I had mixed at the auto paint store.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Man, i handpainted that part on a bro's Goldwings, never thought about doing that LOL

#4445 7 months ago

So I finished my restore of Holly Wood Heat. Painted the legs, rails, outside of the coin door. Oh and I made a new translite. If enough people would like it I can get more printed. ^_^

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#4446 7 months ago

Nice work! The colors all work well

Oh, and i think i dated that girl on the left in the 80's.

#4447 7 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

Nice work! The colors all work well
Oh, and i think i dated that girl on the left in the 80's.

Yeah I really dig the teal. I WISH I dated girls like that back in the 80s. Lol.

#4448 7 months ago

Has anyone had success doing both the reset mod and_ the supercapacitor mod on the same MPU?

I have a Counterforce I got a few weeks ago. The computer had a battery. I cleaned it up and thought it would be a good idea to install a memory back-up cap and do the reset mod (I used the substitute for the Dallas chip). This seemed to work, but the computer wouldn't maintain memory. Looking at the schematic, there is at least one connection for VB (the former battery voltage) to the IC that's removed in the reset mod.

(It's also possible I had another mistake here that I haven't found yet.)

#4449 7 months ago
Quoted from ts4z:

Has anyone had success doing both the reset mod and_ the supercapacitor mod on the same MPU?
I have a Counterforce I got a few weeks ago. The computer had a battery. I cleaned it up and thought it would be a good idea to install a memory back-up cap and do the reset mod (I used the substitute for the Dallas chip). This seemed to work, but the computer wouldn't maintain memory. Looking at the schematic, there is at least one connection for VB (the former battery voltage) to the IC that's removed in the reset mod.
(It's also possible I had another mistake here that I haven't found yet.)

I’m not particularly a fan of the super caps. While some of the 5101 chips barely use any power others can drain that cap in a short time. In my own System 80 games I installed NVRAM instead. The ones from nvram.weebly.com work well and are affordable.

Can’t help with the reset. All mine are original style.

#4450 7 months ago
Quoted from tait316:

So I finished my restore of Holly Wood Heat. Painted the legs, rails, outside of the coin door. Oh and I made a new translite. If enough people would like it I can get more printed. ^_^
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice, i like the translight.

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