(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)

By Gerry

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by FLASHBALL
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There are 6,592 posts in this topic. You are on page 131 of 132.
#6501 74 days ago

I was hoping you wouldn't say connectors :-/ Definitely not an enjoyable task. So no Trifurcon pins, can anyone lead me towards the correct plugs for Sys 1's, I did see someone 3D print them, is that the way to go?

#6502 74 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

I did see someone 3D print them, is that the way to go?

Why replace the plastic housings when the metal pins are the problem? Pop each one out, clip off, crimp on new, and pop back into same plastic housings.

I am not as familiar with System 1 as 80, so I can't tell you specifics on Molex part numbers, which ones are obsolete, etc.

However, Docent is one source among many for System 1 Molex pins and parts...

https://www.docentelectronics.com/httpdocs/AmusementGames/Pinball/Gottlieb/System%20One.htm

#6503 74 days ago
Quoted from sparky672:

Why replace the plastic housings when the metal pins are the problem? Pop each one out, clip off, crimp on new, and pop back into same plastic housings.
I am not as familiar with System 1 as 80, so I can't tell you specifics on Molex part numbers, which ones are obsolete, etc.
However, Docent is one source among many for System 1 Molex pins and parts...
https://www.docentelectronics.com/httpdocs/AmusementGames/Pinball/Gottlieb/System%20One.htm

Appreciate the tip, have made contact, fingers crossed they're happy send to Oz

#6504 73 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

I was hoping you wouldn't say connectors :-/ Definitely not an enjoyable task. So no Trifurcon pins, can anyone lead me towards the correct plugs for Sys 1's, I did see someone 3D print them, is that the way to go?

I am producing them.

In the US, Marco Pinball sells them.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=Connector+edge+single

In Canada check with Pinball LEDs by DRAPL.
https://pinballleds.ca/index.php?route=product/product&path=116&product_id=564

Sorry. Nobody selling them in Australia...yet!

They are sold as kits - a housing, crimp pins (extra included) and labels.

#6505 72 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

I was hoping you wouldn't say connectors :-/ Definitely not an enjoyable task. So no Trifurcon pins, can anyone lead me towards the correct plugs for Sys 1's, I did see someone 3D print them, is that the way to go?

RDBowers makes great replacements.

#6506 72 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Appreciate the tip, have made contact, fingers crossed they're happy send to Oz

You can 3D print the plastic housings if needed : https://lisy.dev/gtb-edge-connectors.html
There you can also find links to buying the crimp contacts needed.

#6507 69 days ago

Wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction.

Had a Bone Busters with a weak right flipper. Inspected the coil/wiring and saw a loose wire on the EOS. Reattached it. Started a game and we're back to full strength. Great!

Go to start another game, and it coins up, starts w/music, but the trough will not kick out a ball. It has 4 balls, if you pull one out and drain it into the outhole, it will kick it over, but will not kick one into the shooter lane, and I have no flippers(I assume because it hasn't released one into the lane.

I reseated some connectors, lifted the playfield and checked all the fuses in the bottom of cab, and underside of playfield. Suddenly, I can start a game and it kicks out. Ok cool. Just some weird Gottlieb stuff. Try another game. nothing. The game has the ground mods done inside the cab, nothing in head, original connectors/pins from what I can see. Ground mod on the interconnect harness.

From the Switch test I can see the 3rd ball trough position switch is not registering, as well as the shooter lane switch. I tested with a DMM and it registers closing.

Just trying figure out where to zero in on as I don't have a tone of experience with syst80s, am I looking at a wiring issue on the playfield because it seemed intermittent, or is it in the head, or even on the boards?

Any insight would be awesome because I feel like it could be in front of my face and I'm not seeing it.

#6508 69 days ago

I'm not familiar with sys 80, but it sounds like the machine won't kick out the ball due to the trough switch. Look on the schematic and follow each wire from the switch to the circuit board. With power off, read resistance from the leaf on the switch to the first point on the circuit board. You should get close to zero ohms. I think one of these two wires is not being felt on the circuit board. Once you find which wire does not have continuity, break it down into sections - from the switch to the first connector pin, from the connector to the first point on the circuit board. I suspect you have a loose wire.

#6509 68 days ago

Cross posting this from the Black Hole club thread.

I'm having an issue with the set of 4 yellow drop targets on the lower playfield, they are not resetting. Here is what I've done so far:

1. Did the ground updates for the MPU/Driver board interconnect harness
2. Ensured the coil is good.
3. Traced the continuity from A1-J4 all the way to the solenoid, all good there.
4. Replaced the Q62 transistor.
5. Replaced the Q61 transistor with the unused Q54 transistor.
6. Ensured Z28 and Z30 are getting the correct voltage.
7. Used a logic probe on Z30 to ensure the reset signal is being sent out when appropriate, it is.
8. When pulling Q62 to ground by touching a wire from ground to the case, the target bank resets.

I tried directly testing the MPS-U45 transistor with a DMM diode check following the directions on Pinwiki, but every single MPS-U45 I tried on the board had no reading between the base and the emitter. Other than these drop targets, all the lamps/solenoids are working great. So obviously I'm testing them incorrectly or Pinwiki is wrong about how to test them, which is doubtful.

I'm at a loss of what to do next. I ordered some CEN-U45s to try a brand new one at Q61, and new molex crimps to re-pin all the connectors. Any suggestions of what else to try while I wait for those parts?

#6510 68 days ago

Hey I wanted to double check, Is night moves compatible with this board? I assume so, but want to double check.

#6511 68 days ago
Quoted from Gundam_Pilot_:

Hey I wanted to double check, Is night moves compatible with this board? I assume so, but want to double check.

Which board?

#6512 62 days ago

Stupid question alert.

Can the two five bank row of lights in Hulk pin be exchanged with single lamp sockets?

#6513 62 days ago
Quoted from JakePG:

Stupid question alert.
Can the two five bank row of lights in Hulk pin be exchanged with single lamp sockets?

Yep. Just did the same on my Joker Poker.

#6514 62 days ago
Quoted from JakePG:

Stupid question alert.
Can the two five bank row of lights in Hulk pin be exchanged with single lamp sockets?

I put yoppsicles type lights in my Hulk for those

#6515 62 days ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

I put yoppsicles type lights in my Hulk for those

I put yoppsicles in my Stars, and love them. I didn't know there were others compatible with Gottlieb.

#6516 62 days ago
Quoted from JakePG:

I put yoppsicles in my Stars, and love them. I didn't know there were others compatible with Gottlieb.

Gottlieb games don't have issues with LEDs like Bally/Stern does. The resistor built into the Yopps won't bother Gottlieb, so they should work fine.

#6517 60 days ago

Almost done with Hulk. 3D printed all new posts, except the two Siamese posts (ran out of filament). Also made the Hulk plastic and the two mini flippers.

IMG_20240323_183710851_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20240323_183710851_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20240323_183723387_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20240323_183723387_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20240323_185836328_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20240323_185836328_HDR (resized).jpg
#6518 60 days ago

Anyone have the dip switch settings on Diamond lady handy? I need to turn on novelty mode so EBs are off at this event. I don’t have my manual handy.

#6519 60 days ago
Quoted from RGarriott:

Looking for a working or non working 80B CPU

Available and message sent.

IMG_0908 (resized).jpegIMG_0908 (resized).jpeg
#6520 60 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Anyone have the dip switch settings on Diamond lady handy? I need to turn on novelty mode so EBs are off at this event. I don’t have my manual handy.

Switch 28 on = Novelty. Player wins 500K instead of Extra Ball or Special.

#6521 60 days ago
Quoted from pinballguru:

Switch 28 on = Novelty. Player wins 500K instead of Extra Ball or Special.

Thanks Jon!!!

#6522 57 days ago

Any one got a cool custom rule card for jacks to open?

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#6523 57 days ago
Quoted from JakePG:

Almost done with Hulk. 3D printed all new posts, except the two Siamese posts (ran out of filament). Also made the Hulk plastic and the two mini flippers. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I really enjoy the gameplay of hulk . Very good rules. Thats a very nice Hulk.

#6524 56 days ago
Quoted from plowpusher:

I really enjoy the gameplay of hulk . Very good rules. Thats a very nice Hulk.

Thanks. I'm having a lot of fun with it.

#6525 54 days ago
Quoted from Snowtrooper:

Available and message sent.[quoted image]

Is the 80b mpu still available?

#6526 54 days ago

So, I have been battling a Night Moves with sound problem. The game came to me working but developed the issue a few months ago. Basically what it does now is produce white noise. Jerry Clause bench tested the sound board for me and it proofed out fine. The game has a Swemmer mpu in it. I jumpered the reset line from the mpu to the sound board per a suggestion from Mr. Hibbler. That worked partially but the music was missing the drums. Is this a repin the connectors and tie the grounds together in the bottom type thing or something else?

#6527 53 days ago

System 80 era pins seem to have very little playfield general illumination. I got a ton of Comet light strips, and put them everywhere on my system 80's. Sure helps brighten it all up! See photos.

DSCN0757 (resized).JPGDSCN0757 (resized).JPGDSCN0758 (resized).JPGDSCN0758 (resized).JPGDSCN0759 (resized).JPGDSCN0759 (resized).JPGDSCN0760 (resized).JPGDSCN0760 (resized).JPGDSCN0761 (resized).JPGDSCN0761 (resized).JPGDSCN0762 (resized).JPGDSCN0762 (resized).JPG
#6528 47 days ago
Quoted from pinostalgia:

Is the 80b mpu still available?

I’m sorry, it was sold and is no longer available.

#6529 46 days ago

Going through Spring Break and replacing what's old and tired. Any suggestions on how make a new sticker for the ball launcher cover? I haven't come across any replacements for sale.

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#6530 46 days ago
Quoted from Sammer:

Going through Spring Break and replacing what's old and tired. Any suggestions on how make a new sticker for the ball launcher cover? I haven't come across any replacements for sale.
[quoted image]

Can you send me a scan or straight down photo?
I can create a file for it.
I also need the size.
Please send it to [email protected]
I can send you a file in return (which I can't do via Pinside).

Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

#6531 46 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Can you send me a scan or straight down photo?
I can create a file for it.
I also need the size.
Please send it to [email protected]
I can send you a file in return (which I can't do via Pinside).
Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

Email sent.

#6532 43 days ago

Does anyone know how hot voltage needs to be to cause issues on a Sys80? I was at a customer's house and they had a game - nothing is working - etc. I noticed pretty quickly the 5v line was around 5.33, which I believe was then tripping the crowbar circuit. I've since repaired that to be a solid 5v, but am still getting some very frustrating behavior (MPU will boot, game will start, but zero switches will start). Unfortunately, I don't have another Sys80/A game to test in, and was hoping to get some insight since sys80 MPUs are a nightmare to work on between lack of diagnostics, poor connectors, etc. Do you all think 5.33 would be enough to damage the MPU beforehand? Usually, I would expect connectors in a Sys80 to start; but since it's NO switches working after the game boots, I'm suspecting switch matrix chips. I'm also wondering if it's worth just buying the Ni-Wumpf and calling it a day.

Any tips/tricks?

#6533 43 days ago
Quoted from statictrance:

Does anyone know how hot voltage needs to be to cause issues on a Sys80? I was at a customer's house and they had a game - nothing is working - etc. I noticed pretty quickly the 5v line was around 5.33, which I believe was then tripping the crowbar circuit. I've since repaired that to be a solid 5v, but am still getting some very frustrating behavior (MPU will boot, game will start, but zero switches will start). Unfortunately, I don't have another Sys80/A game to test in, and was hoping to get some insight since sys80 MPUs are a nightmare to work on between lack of diagnostics, poor connectors, etc. Do you all think 5.33 would be enough to damage the MPU beforehand? Usually, I would expect connectors in a Sys80 to start; but since it's NO switches working after the game boots, I'm suspecting switch matrix chips. I'm also wondering if it's worth just buying the Ni-Wumpf and calling it a day.
Any tips/tricks?

Yes 5.3 is high but shouldnt be causing an issue that you are seeing.

#6534 43 days ago
Quoted from statictrance:

Does anyone know how hot voltage needs to be to cause issues on a Sys80? I was at a customer's house and they had a game - nothing is working - etc. I noticed pretty quickly the 5v line was around 5.33, which I believe was then tripping the crowbar circuit. I've since repaired that to be a solid 5v, but am still getting some very frustrating behavior (MPU will boot, game will start, but zero switches will start). Unfortunately, I don't have another Sys80/A game to test in, and was hoping to get some insight since sys80 MPUs are a nightmare to work on between lack of diagnostics, poor connectors, etc. Do you all think 5.33 would be enough to damage the MPU beforehand? Usually, I would expect connectors in a Sys80 to start; but since it's NO switches working after the game boots, I'm suspecting switch matrix chips. I'm also wondering if it's worth just buying the Ni-Wumpf and calling it a day.
Any tips/tricks?

Are balls in trough/ball kicking out to shooter lane? If the game doesn't detect the correct number of balls it will start a game but not do anything until it detects the correct trough switches.

#6535 43 days ago

Do all of the switches fail in the switch test as well? Or, only during (attempted) game play? If they work in test, then the switch matrix is working fine. Sys 80's diagnostics work well, not sure where "sys80 MPUs are a nightmare to work on between lack of diagnostics..."comes from, the 6502 architecture is pretty straight forward.

The connectors should all be re-pinned at a minimum, and the well documented ground corrections should be considered.

#6536 41 days ago

frisbez - I actually have the apron off so I can depress the switch and it still isn't doing anything. What's odd is everything generally works in test (controlled lights, switches, solenoids) - but when a game starts it does squat. Also - I've thrown in a NiWumpf a buddy of mine had laying around since my original post, and that boots and plays fine; but I'm trying to save the guy some money if the original MPU can be saved.

Mthomasslo - You don't understand where "these are a nightmare to work on" comes from - yet then go on to talk about the connectors and the ground mods, which kind of answers your question right there. The MPU architecture may be straightforward, but there's no diagnosis of squat on board without bench testing and either scoping or logic probing compared to similar aged machines like the excellent Bally start up sequence to assist in narrowing down issues. Also, While it's always a good idea to repin some connectors on an old Bally or WMS - it isn't an absolute starting requirement to at least troubleshoot them. Also, no other manu needs grounds completely redone because their original design was hot garbage. I think that's more than enough to call these troublesome.

If this was a full service of an old game then absolutely; you redo all the connectors, do all the ground mods, and start fresh from there. However, when you're completing a repair for a customer and time is money, it's not exactly an easy thing to say "well I have to do this 5 hours of work before I even try to fix your problem". I was hoping this behavior sounded somewhat familiar to someone here that could point in a more specific direction than "do the Gottlieb needful".

#6537 38 days ago

Anyone have a bone busters skull topper they’d like to sell? Picking up the game tomorrow but they don’t have the topper. Would love to add one to the game!

#6538 38 days ago
Quoted from bajm:

Anyone have a bone busters skull topper they’d like to sell? Picking up the game tomorrow but they don’t have the topper. Would love to add one to the game!

I have the actual skeleton skull model, still in box, that was used to construct the topper. Let me know if interested.

#6539 38 days ago
Quoted from Snowtrooper:

I have the actual skeleton skull model, still in box, that was used to construct the topper. Let me know if interested.

I’ll pm u to get some details- thanks!

#6540 36 days ago

Just copied this to a buddy to mine... just bought a Bone Busters and cannot fit the topper in his basement.

#6541 36 days ago

bajm I have one I would sell. Just picked up the game but the topper doesn’t fit in my basement (stupid low ceilings). It’s fully working but needs a new lamp in it. Really nice. I can get some better photos tomorrow if you want.

IMG_4872 (resized).jpegIMG_4872 (resized).jpeg
#6542 36 days ago
Quoted from MikeH482:

bajm I have one I would sell. Just picked up the game but the topper doesn’t fit in my basement (stupid low ceilings). It’s fully working but needs a new lamp in it. Really nice. I can get some better photos tomorrow if you want. [quoted image]

Sweet - sending you a pm!

#6543 31 days ago

A huge thank you again to Peter Inkochnito Perfect match.

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#6544 26 days ago
Quoted from JakePG:

Almost done with Hulk. 3D printed all new posts, except the two Siamese posts (ran out of filament). Also made the Hulk plastic and the two mini flippers. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Hot dog other Hulk enthusiasts!! Just stumbled across this club. Here is my Hulk…

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-1
#6545 26 days ago

Thinking of also replacing the red roll overs with green ones.

Thoughts on adding a center post like Buck Rogers. Been mulling it over for sometime.

#6546 25 days ago
Quoted from Rampmaster:

Thoughts on adding a center post like Buck Rogers. Been mulling it over for sometime.

Your Hulk is in great original condition. It would be a travesty to butcher the playfield with a centre post making an already easy game easier.

#6547 24 days ago

Has anybody reproduced color ramps for Genesis, or just the clear ones?

Thanks

#6548 24 days ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Hmmm. Maybe the bob isn't making good contact with the rod? You able to steal a bob from another game?

I even bought new bob recently, all my tilt bobs are the same material with the same small diameter hole.
I got another bob that was more metallic but that didn't help either.
What does help is wrapping the bob in tin foil, which is hacky as hell.
20240426_132235 (resized).jpg20240426_132235 (resized).jpg

I'd given up on this issue thinking I'd tried everything except asking Pascal about it (and the above tin foil test)

But this is promising! I originally tried a cap, copying the Bally way but it didn't work. The above method uses a different value and a diode so different.

Any idea why the diode? It's a diode type I've rarely seen in pinball. I'm used to seeing 1N4004+

#6549 24 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Any idea why the diode? It's a diode type I've rarely seen in pinball.

Start reading from here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/totem-isn-t-very-responsive-to-tilting/page/1#post-5734484
Then half a page later here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/totem-isn-t-very-responsive-to-tilting/page/2#post-5737770
And finally a suggestion for better capacitor value to end with:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/totem-isn-t-very-responsive-to-tilting/page/2#post-7558504

1N5819 diodes have a very low voltage drop compared to 1N400x. This switch circuit needs minimal losses to sense switch activations. These diodes are also commonly used as blocking diodes for battery backup on MPU boards.

I hope the diode/capacitor solution helps to resolve your issue.

#6550 24 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Your Hulk is in great original condition. It would be a travesty to butcher the playfield with a centre post making an already easy game easier.

What are you considering easy score wise? I average 2-300K maybe. Probably not that great compared to others. High is 930K, but that was an outlier. If the ball comes down to the right of the spinner, area next to the top pop and that elongated rubber, it is certain death. Like there is a trough to the center drain. I am a stickler for level and pitch, so those are spot on.

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