Quoted from Andreas:

Does it matter if I change the cables on the popbumper lampsocket. Someone has done the worst job and I cant see witch of the lampsocket side that will have 2 cabels to one lug. Cant find it in the Dragon manual.

Quoted from Cheddar:

Added encouragement for ground mods. Buddy of mine has a tx sector that wouldn't kick a ball on start and acted like switches weren't hit during a game. On a whim I grabbed a bunch of test leads and connected the grounds to the ground strap and most of these problems went away. Time to break out some wire and do some ground mods.
He thought he didn't need to do this because the power supply and mpu were aftermarket.
Now we have 2 issues left. No power to slings and kickers and no speech.

Quoted from slgerber:

I have rebuilt all 4 flippers on my Gottlieb Star Race. I still have problems making the figure 8 loop at the top left corner. The current flipper coils are A-17875, is there a replacement coil with a little more "umph" ?

Quoted from mrm_4:

I noticed the knocker is missing it’s fuse on this Gold Wings. I’m still learning how to read schematics, could someone confirm if I traced the knocker to a 8amp fuse?

Quoted from DropTarget:

Hi all,
I'm having trouble with my Count-Down. Two coils are locking on. I've changed transistors, but they remain locked. I have a new driver board coming, hopefully that will take care of the issue, but of course don't want to blow out any transistors on the new board.
here's a question....
I'm checking the under pf transistors as per Clay's site. I've disconnected the wires that run to the driver board, using a DMM, putting red lead on the case, 1 of the transistors checks as Clay describes, .5 from Collector to Base, and .5 from Collector to Emitter. The other transistor measures .5 from collector to base, but OL from Collector to Emitter. However, When I remove it from the machine, the transistor tests good.
Any thoughts?
TIA

Quoted from DropTarget:

The blue and yellow drop target reset coils.
I've also noticed locked on lamps.

Quoted from DropTarget:

I haven't added pull up resistors yet, any suggestions as where to take the 24v from? The fuse block is not near the under pf transistors on Count Down.
Thx

Quoted from DropTarget:

Hi All,
So I just received my new driver board. Is it still recommended to install a pull up resistor, or it it unnecessary with after market boards?
THX

Quoted from DropTarget:

OK, Disregard that last post.
I'M AN IDIOT!!!! I'll say it loud and in front of the whole group.
The fuse blew, and I replaced it several times, removing the possible short each time in order to isolate the issue. As it turns out I was accidentally replacing the 5a sb fuse with a 2a
Put in 5a and all is well, except for the issue of L28 not working.
Lesson learned, maybe someone else can learn from this as well. At least I didn't put in a higher valued fuse.
SO, that brings me back to the original issue. L28 not lighting. There is continuity from the wire at the socket to the transistor (Q36). Q36 tests ok while still in the board.
Any ideas? Replace Q36 just in case? As a side note.... I'm pretty sure it's not the transistor, as when I had a different driver board in, the same thing was happening.

Quoted from Andreas:

Pinball pool left droptargetbank wont reset, its nothing mechanical. Game is like brand new on all levels including .156 connectors in housings. I did meassure the under playfield transistor but its a brand new so know thats not the one. Tried with other cpu and driverboards. Have a new powersupp intalled. Was unsure when b-relay is going to be activated so took a broken janincard and did drivertest...b relay clicked so cant be that. I have volts to every lug on the coils, b relay, fuse and transistor. Meassuerd coils and they are all ok. Still no reset. Done the usual before bootup check. Everything is really nice and shiny. The left droptargetbank work as it should just not resetting.
Any tips

Quoted from Andreas:

Did try with another driverboard that works on another pinball pool and the same. A3j5-1 is like new. Should I jumpwire from a3j5-1 to where?

Quoted from Silverballbrain:

has anyone ever tried to mod the voice recordings of a Devil's dare machine with different tracks? Is it possible? Just curious.Thanks

Quoted from gdonovan:

#1 I think is a bad driver board. I have continuity from the 500,000 lamp base to pin #9 of the connector but there is no output. Thoughts? How do I isolate one lamp driver line to determine if it is the driver board or MPU?

Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

Hey guys, I am going through the power supply on my black hole, and I have found one anomoly I can't explain. I understand this is an unregulated power supply, so I don't expect to find exact voltages coming out of it, but the +6v circuit has me concerned. Right now it is putting out a perfect +12v dc. Should I be concered about this? Or is this something common to system 80 machines?
[quoted image]

Quoted from jdoz2:

I had my cleopatra working great but after a week of play it has developed a problem where two chime coils and the right saucer coil lock on when the game is turn on.
I switched driver boards and the problem still occurs. Is there anything I need to check on the mpu? Anything else it could be?
Ground mods are done, stock mpu, stock driver board, aftermarket power supply.

Quoted from gdonovan:

I'd look at the diagram of the MPU and see if the 3 items are related in any way as to what is controlling them.

Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

I’m working on restoring the flipper and bumper power on my Black Hole, and I came across something in the wiring diagram that I find a bit disturbing. Is there any protection against shorts to ground built into the +24v or +34v circuits that run the flippers or bumpers? I’d be worried that if one of these circuits grounds out, it could take the transformer with it.

Quoted from jugood20:

While I was playing a game this evening on my Bad Girls, the left up kicker stopped firing the coil. The switch recognizes the ball, but is not kicking the ball out. I checked the fuse (F13) but it appears the fuse looks fine ( the F13 fuse also is tied to the right kicker which is working as it should. Anyone have any ideas? Photos attached. Thanks !

Quoted from sixtyfourbits:

Question:
I found these switches on my system 80A sound board, and am not sure how they should be set. Should they both be pressed towards 1 & 2, should they be pressed towards open, should only one be open, or ?
I currently have no sounds or music so that’s why I’m asking if the switches are correct.
Thanks!

Quoted from kba78:

Hi all,
Just wondering if any of you Monte Carlo owners could help me out. Working on one with the two 67 flashers on the sides of the roulette wheel are lock on. For some reason I am having a terrible time deciphering the manual and can't figure out which transistor controls them. They have the main driver board and two aux driver boards. If someone could point me in the right direction, I would appreciate it
Thanks

Quoted from dfrazer:

Expanding on Inkochnito's screenshot from the Monte Carlo Manual....
[quoted image]
.....does that map over to the following.....
[quoted image]
If so, are we referring to the Auxiliary Lamp Driver Board (A11)? I believe that this is the board that is located under the playfield to the right of the Resistor Board (A13) that contains the 4 resistors that are used for the 4 pairs of #67 Lamps:
[quoted image]
Am I correct in my assumptions?

Quoted from Jakers:

My Monte Carlo has been working fine and all of the sudden there are 4 switches that won’t register. The left lock saucer, left ramp made switch, middle left top lane and the right inlane target switch that opens the right gate. Any ideas where to start troubleshooting this?

Quoted from Jakers:

The 4 switches problem ended up being a broken wire under the playfield on one of the diode boards. Also found and fixed my random reset problem by flowing solder on the daughter board pins.
The only problem I can see now is my “5” insert light is constantly on in attract mode. Would that be a diode issue and where is that diode located?

Quoted from gdonovan:

Anyone with a good system 80 board for sale? I have a game to bring back to life. Current board has damage over a wide area and I'm not sure worth investing my time.

Quoted from MikeS:

I finally got my Diamond Lady playing but the issue I'm having is that that my coils don't seem as snappy as they should be.
I can make all the shots but even with completely rebuilt flippers they seem to be on the weak side. And my right target bank sometimes has trouble resetting even after cleaning/rebuilding it. Even pops and slings seem like they are at about 80% of where they should be in terms of power. I have good 5V and 12V going in to the boards.
Any ideas of what I should be checking and what the likely culprit could be? thanks

Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I still prefer the NVRAM over the capacitor. If you leave the game off for a while with the capacitor you lose high scores and settings. Not an issue with NVRAM.

Quoted from Luzur:

Well, ive lumbered the Goldwings i had problems with out from hibernation now again and still have that Matrix problem i asked about earlier.
Ive checked allt he switches in the affectad areas, and no switch is stuck, and as i figured out earlier if switched to my Hollywood Heat MPU, it all works, so its clearly a MPU problem.
Now on Gottlieb sys80b, what controls the Switch matrixes? a chip, right? which one would it be?
[quoted image]

Quoted from Luzur:

Anyone here know how many pages an original Volcano manual have? A friend of mine is asking since his manual seems to be missing pages since it only have 18 but some "parts lists" on page 15 lists more stuff then he have.

Quoted from Diospinball:

And also I've been having some issues that are sporadic with the drops for my game. Most of the time they work really well. And that is saying something for a 40 year old game. But, I really would like to get them fixed so no more sticking. Sometimes when I hit them, they don't go down. They stay up and really rigid. Sometimes they'll then start to slowly slide down, and then finally get sprung near the bottom and snap all the way down. They reset no problem and sometimes they start back to work normal like how they should...

Quoted from Diospinball:

Then I got a question about the spinner. It spins decent. But, I think it can be juicer. Any tips on how I can get that working better.

Quoted from cadmium:

I’ve been fixing a Genesis for a couple of months that came to me totally wrecked. I’m close to fully operational but having an issue with the soundboard. The board originally did not work but after bench testing it against a good board I have almost all the sounds working.
It is not playing any switch sounds. I’ve been methodically replacing ICs and testing using the schematic but no luck. You can see from the attached picture the ICs I’ve changed because I’ve added sockets. I’ve also tried swapping the ROMs.
Can anyone help me understand which part of the board is responsible for switch hits? My baseline test is using the credit switch to see if a sound is made. With a working soundboard the game makes the add credits sounds. With this soundboard it doesn’t. Is there anyway to determine from the schematic which data line makes this sound?

Quoted from gdonovan:

Anyone have a single System one or System 80 6 digit display for sale? Worse case just need the glass.

Quoted from toasterman04:

hey guys, got a question hopefully someone can answer. I have a Star Race where I have two problems after I moved it. Displays 3 and 4 are missing every 'one' that should be displayed on them. also I find that the game will randomly reboot during a game, every third game or so.
yet for the last 4-5 years it was playing fine.

Quoted from toasterman04:

hmmm, ya the ground update is done. and i have disconnected and re-seated all connectors 5ish times. i even switched out the interconnect harness. but all to no avail.

Quoted from dahlman:

Hi Gottliebers!
Anyone got an original spring break translite for sale or have an hires scan or photo of one?
Drop me a pm!
Best regards
Peter

Quoted from Andreas:

Spiderman..right flipper burns 24vac coil fuse. As fast as touching the cabinet button it blows.
Changed coils, diods, cabinet switch and bridge rectifier...it blows direct when pushing it. Its on a spiderman. Where do I go from here?
Could eos switches do this?

Quoted from BaymenCoach:

Quick question for Rock/Encore owners....
Does the game make a sound when players are added to the game? All of my other 80b games do but my Rock doesn’t seem to at all. Wondering if this is the programming or an issue with my game. Thanks for the info in advance..

Quoted from Cherga:

Can someone please post the resistor values for Gold Wings top right (blue) flasher? There are two wired on mine, one is a 4ohm 10w however the other is fried and unreadable. Thanks!

Quoted from Cherga:

Just picked up a Hot Shots. The Pop Bumper coil doesn’t fire but the spoon switch registers points. Diode is good, haven’t checked the coil yet. Any other feedback on what I should be looking for?
Also need a manual if anyone has one on electronic form. Thanks

Quoted from the9gman:

anybody know where I can get a SP 0250 speech chip?

Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

I’m getting a lot of random flickers of garbage rapidly spiraling across my displays on my Night Moves. Also a few lamps are out or flickering.
I’ve done all the grounding mods.
What might be my issue and how do I check?

Quoted from Luzur:

Ok, im stumped bros, i burned two new roms, Rom1 and Rom2, for a Hollywood Heat that got one of its Roms turned the wrong way during a boardswap, and this is what i get:
https://streamable.com/ohotkm
Is it the Roms still, or is it the daughterboard? or bad motherboard? or what?

Quoted from hisokajp:

In another not, one of the through hole kicker coil is pretty toasted, i wanted to change it and the associated transistor but the manual does not seem to give a coil table or a clear schematics for the driver board to which coil is driven.
Am I missing something or should i just check the coil driver wire color and check against A3J4 and A3J6?
[quoted image]

Quoted from UltraPeepi:

My Haunted House has an all in one Pi 80. When I run the coil test, all the coils fire as expected except COIL 2 gives Err 2. According to the book, solenoid 2 is the upkicker from the lower playfield (which makes sense - because that's when the game malfunctioned). Err 2 means "No current is flooding through the coil, although the coil is energized".
I know the up kicker coil is good, because when I close the contact that triggers the coil, it fires. The contact is closed by a gate relay (A-20558). The book says the resistance should be 156 ohms. It measured a bit low (115 ohms). So I replaced it. But I get the same error.
Any ideas?
(dupe post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/haunted-house-coil-2-err-2#post-6107764)

Quoted from statictrance:

Quick question... Old system 1 tone board... It's always worked, but the sound doesn't make the tone like it's supposed to... Volume is there, but the sound almost sounds like a putt-putt-putt instead of the beep it should be. I redid the electrolytic caps, but it hasn't helped. Any idea which component to check next before I just shotgun the whole board?

Quoted from pinballjah:

Can anyone with a Rock or Rock Encore confirm whether there is a match number on the display at the end of a game? I noticed today on mine that nothing comes up for the match. Maybe this was reprogrammed out with the Rock Encore ROM? Thank you.

Quoted from Cheddar:

Does anybody know where to find instructions to convert an 80A to an 80B? a guy I'm doing some work for wants me to try it he's running out of places to find 80B boards thanks

Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Is there a list of what each dip switch does on tx sector?
The energy level resets after each ball. I assume this is a hard setting. I'd like to turn it off if possible.

Quoted from SeymorGoldfarbJr:

I am looking for a copy of Raven sounds ROMs. Please send me a PM if you have a copy you could send to me.

Quoted from mad_carl:

Hey guys - quick question for you…
Picked up a Hollywood heat a couple months ago. Had the boards gone through. Ground mod was done in the cabinet. Game works and plays great but I’m getting what I assume is some weird display stuff.
Best I can explain is that when a digit/letter is not being used it it still somewhat lit. Was like this when I got it.
Seems as though it’s most noticeable when there are less digits lit up ie scrolling through on attract mode. When it gets to the recent scores ie 00000000 for each player it seems like it’s less noticeable.
Couldn’t really find any info/or similar issues. Anything I can focus on to try and resolve this? I’m new to Gottlieb
Pics below
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Paul_from_Gilroy:

Interestingly, if I download and run the virtual version of this table in Visual Pinball, Switch 31 behaves the same as my real machine (Switch 31 does not disable background sound despite what the manual says). Is it possible that a newer version of certain ROMs or PROMs exists for The Games (i.e. a newer version of U2, U3, or the game PROM)?

Quoted from MarAlb:

Reproduction backglass for Devil's Dare made by Coos. Anyone see something special?
[quoted image]

Quoted from NeilMcRae:

folks, is there a guide to convert a system 1 (in this case Cleopatra) to 220v?
Neil.

Quoted from Black_Knight:

Posted this in the tech forum and received no replies. Any help is appreciated…
Haunted House outhole solenoid isn't energizing. Every thing else plays fine when I manually eject the ball. The out hole switch is fine as it ends a game and resets the lower drops when the ball drains.
In fact as long as the ball is on the out hole switch it cycles through the reset process and stops when I remove the ball - so I know it is good.
Coil Ohms are good, grounding the coil activates it.
Tested Q59 it was good. I replaced it anyway. I can activate the coil from Q59 so I know the wiring is good. I also checked the relevant traces to make sure my soldering was good.
I have continuity from Q59 to the MPU board beyond the connector, so I know the connectors and traces are good to right before U6- 6532-3.
I reseated U4 U5 and U6. All legs looked OK.
Still nothing.
Did I miss anything along the way or is it time for a new 6532 or board repair/new board? I don't have a probe and never used one.
This machine has had the connectors re done recently and the grounding work recommended in pinwiki.

Quoted from Black_Knight:

The last tech that worked on this machine did a lot of grounding work and tied all the boards to additional ground points in the head, but I'll have to double check to see if he did the on-board items in your pdf.
However, Sol #1 & #9 use the same ground and #1, the cellar kickout, works fine in both test and when playing. The only other solenoid that isn't working is #8, the knocker, and I haven't investigated that yet since I didn't think it was related.
If I need to do these upgrades what type/gauge of wire do you recomend?

Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Does noone know the specs for a replacement potentiometer for the volume control in a 80b?

Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Thanks.
What about size? I know I could measure but lost my tape measure in the house renovation recently.
It's not my pin, I'm borrowing it and just wanna order a new pot.

Quoted from sparky672:

Actually looks like it's missing all pages 19 through 43. It's weird, and no idea where this site got those in the first place. The Volcano manual from that site is missing everything after page 17. I ended buying an original from eBay.

Quoted from PhillyArcade:

Anyone have the wire color layout for the right side pop bumper? Jacks To Open pin... Mine wasn't working and I checked someone hacked it out. I found the proper switch but I'm not sure what wires go where. Thanks!

Quoted from mbaumle:

Does anyone know what Gottlieb game was the first to feature the "status report" by holding a flipper? Robo-War has one, but it doesn't look like TX-Sector has one (can someone please verify this?). Do any System 80B games prior to Robo-War have one, or any games after Robo-War that *don't* have one? I know ROM space was tight then, so I'm just curious if it might have also been game specific.

Quoted from DropTarget:

Hi guys,
Does anyone know what Q30 controls on Count down?
My yellow drop target bank coil locks on. Q30 appears to test badly (in circuit). I thought the pre driver was Q17, which tests good. I have not tested the under PF transistor yet.
Thanks.

Quoted from DropTarget:

It does. Thank you.
Is that on your site?

Quoted from jtreehorn:

Robowar: For some reason I cannot cycle through ROBO lights at the top of the play field using my flipper buttons. Flippers work fine. Any suggestions on where to start looking?

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Are you sure it’s at the cabinet button? It might be at the flipper mech. So if you don’t see it at the cabinet switch, check the mech.

Quoted from GLSP3022:

Can someone with a Hollywood Heat send me the lamp matrix or the transitor list for the lamps? Need to check on one lamp, customer doesn't have the manual. Thanks!
Please DM me

Quoted from Sammer:

Going through Spring Break and replacing what's old and tired. Any suggestions on how make a new sticker for the ball launcher cover? I haven't come across any replacements for sale.
[quoted image]