(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)

By Gerry

5 years ago

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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by cp1610
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#2356 1 year ago

Count the light bulbs.
Each draws 0.25A current.
So four of them adds up to 1A.
Look at the GI fuse and that's your limit.

Most of the time they are up to the limit in number of lamps.
Led's may be the only way to add more.


2 weeks later
#2414 1 year ago
Quoted from Andreas:

Does it matter if I change the cables on the popbumper lampsocket. Someone has done the worst job and I cant see witch of the lampsocket side that will have 2 cabels to one lug. Cant find it in the Dragon manual.

No, it does not matter.


2 weeks later
#2436 1 year ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

Added encouragement for ground mods. Buddy of mine has a tx sector that wouldn't kick a ball on start and acted like switches weren't hit during a game. On a whim I grabbed a bunch of test leads and connected the grounds to the ground strap and most of these problems went away. Time to break out some wire and do some ground mods.
He thought he didn't need to do this because the power supply and mpu were aftermarket.
Now we have 2 issues left. No power to slings and kickers and no speech.

Check out my advice on the ground mods for Raven..
I still need to add this info to Pinwiki.
Maybe someone is willing to help me with the Pinwiki...

3 months later
#2582 9 months ago

Check the tilt and game over relay contacts.

2 weeks later
#2607 8 months ago
Quoted from slgerber:

I have rebuilt all 4 flippers on my Gottlieb Star Race. I still have problems making the figure 8 loop at the top left corner. The current flipper coils are A-17875, is there a replacement coil with a little more "umph" ?

New EOS switches?
New cabinet switches?
Tilt relay with clean contacts?
Game Over relay with clean contacts?
Ground connection is firm?

1 week later
#2629 8 months ago

Yes, it's very common.
Sometimes the switch is bend back to avoid the game being switched off when opening the coin door.
You can also just pull out the switch.
You may accidentaly have touched the switch and forgot to pull it out again.

3 weeks later
#2680 7 months ago

That would be the ball release.
Check the transistor under the playfield.
Also check the pull-up resistor.
Otherwise is could be L12 (Q13) on the driver board.

Goldwings (resized).jpg
#2694 7 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I noticed the knocker is missing it’s fuse on this Gold Wings. I’m still learning how to read schematics, could someone confirm if I traced the knocker to a 8amp fuse?

Yes, you are correct.
The knocker is the number one burned coil in Gottlieb games.
Most of the time when you get a Gottlieb game the knocker has been cut or burned nice and crispy.
It's one of the coils Gottlieb didn't fuse seperatly.
Just add a fuseholder near the knocker coil and put in a 1A slo-blo fuse.

And yes, the 8amp fuse is the main fuse for ALL the coils.

#2714 7 months ago

Try the dips on the sound board....
Dips 3 and 4 to OFF.

Mars_sound (resized).jpg

#2740 7 months ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

Hi all,
I'm having trouble with my Count-Down. Two coils are locking on. I've changed transistors, but they remain locked. I have a new driver board coming, hopefully that will take care of the issue, but of course don't want to blow out any transistors on the new board.
here's a question....
I'm checking the under pf transistors as per Clay's site. I've disconnected the wires that run to the driver board, using a DMM, putting red lead on the case, 1 of the transistors checks as Clay describes, .5 from Collector to Base, and .5 from Collector to Emitter. The other transistor measures .5 from collector to base, but OL from Collector to Emitter. However, When I remove it from the machine, the transistor tests good.
Any thoughts?

Which coils?

#2747 7 months ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

The blue and yellow drop target reset coils.
I've also noticed locked on lamps.

Those two have under the playfield transistors and are driven via L17 and L18.
You will need to add the pull-up resistors under the playfield for these two (if not already done).
Check the two big metal transistors under the playfield.

Which lamps are locked on?

#2759 7 months ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

I haven't added pull up resistors yet, any suggestions as where to take the 24v from? The fuse block is not near the under pf transistors on Count Down.

Just ad a resistor between the Base and the Emitter of the transistor.
The 24V sol-bus is already on the coil.

Pullup_circuitry_2 (resized).png
#2782 7 months ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

Hi All,
So I just received my new driver board. Is it still recommended to install a pull up resistor, or it it unnecessary with after market boards?

Yes, the transistor under the playfield still needs it.

#2796 7 months ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

OK, Disregard that last post.
I'M AN IDIOT!!!! I'll say it loud and in front of the whole group.
The fuse blew, and I replaced it several times, removing the possible short each time in order to isolate the issue. As it turns out I was accidentally replacing the 5a sb fuse with a 2a
Put in 5a and all is well, except for the issue of L28 not working.
Lesson learned, maybe someone else can learn from this as well. At least I didn't put in a higher valued fuse.
SO, that brings me back to the original issue. L28 not lighting. There is continuity from the wire at the socket to the transistor (Q36). Q36 tests ok while still in the board.
Any ideas? Replace Q36 just in case? As a side note.... I'm pretty sure it's not the transistor, as when I had a different driver board in, the same thing was happening.

Did you try connecting the emitter of Q36 to ground?
Does the lamp light when you do that?

#2797 7 months ago
Quoted from Andreas:

Pinball pool left droptargetbank wont reset, its nothing mechanical. Game is like brand new on all levels including .156 connectors in housings. I did meassure the under playfield transistor but its a brand new so know thats not the one. Tried with other cpu and driverboards. Have a new powersupp intalled. Was unsure when b-relay is going to be activated so took a broken janincard and did drivertest...b relay clicked so cant be that. I have volts to every lug on the coils, b relay, fuse and transistor. Meassuerd coils and they are all ok. Still no reset. Done the usual before bootup check. Everything is really nice and shiny. The left droptargetbank work as it should just not resetting.
Any tips

B-Relay is only for the drop target memory coils, not the reset coils.
Check Q17 (L17) on the driver board.
Check connector A3J5-1.

#2801 7 months ago
Quoted from Andreas:

Did try with another driverboard that works on another pinball pool and the same. A3j5-1 is like new. Should I jumpwire from a3j5-1 to where?

If you changed board and nothing changes, it has to be the playfield.
Did you add a pull-up resistor?
It might not change the problem, but it is highly recommended.

You can try something a bit harder to test the driver board.
Disconnect the base of the transistor and add a lamp in its place.
One side of the lamp connected to the 6V of the other controled lamps.
The other side to the base wire.
The Q37 should turn on the lamp.
If that is true, replace the transistor under the playfield.

#2807 7 months ago
Quoted from Silverballbrain:

has anyone ever tried to mod the voice recordings of a Devil's dare machine with different tracks? Is it possible? Just curious.Thanks

There is no voice recording in the chips.
It's a different type of voice syntisizer.

1 week later
#2850 6 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

#1 I think is a bad driver board. I have continuity from the 500,000 lamp base to pin #9 of the connector but there is no output. Thoughts? How do I isolate one lamp driver line to determine if it is the driver board or MPU?

The driver board switches to ground. So you never get an output.
You need to check the voltage at the lamp.
If the lamp doesn't light, you must have 6VDC on either side of the socket.
If not, the bulb or socket may be broken.

1 month later
#2987 4 months ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

Hey guys, I am going through the power supply on my black hole, and I have found one anomoly I can't explain. I understand this is an unregulated power supply, so I don't expect to find exact voltages coming out of it, but the +6v circuit has me concerned. Right now it is putting out a perfect +12v dc. Should I be concered about this? Or is this something common to system 80 machines?
[quoted image]

Are you sure you have the premary wiring correct?

1 week later
#3000 4 months ago

I'm back in the club.
I've got a Hot Shots game to restore.
CPU with battery damage and connectors to replace.

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#3010 4 months ago
Quoted from jdoz2:

I had my cleopatra working great but after a week of play it has developed a problem where two chime coils and the right saucer coil lock on when the game is turn on.
I switched driver boards and the problem still occurs. Is there anything I need to check on the mpu? Anything else it could be?
Ground mods are done, stock mpu, stock driver board, aftermarket power supply.

Quoted from gdonovan:

I'd look at the diagram of the MPU and see if the 3 items are related in any way as to what is controlling them.

It looks like Z6 controlls them all.
Gottlieb_CPU (resized).jpg

1 week later
#3017 4 months ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

I’m working on restoring the flipper and bumper power on my Black Hole, and I came across something in the wiring diagram that I find a bit disturbing. Is there any protection against shorts to ground built into the +24v or +34v circuits that run the flippers or bumpers? I’d be worried that if one of these circuits grounds out, it could take the transformer with it.

Put a fuse in line with each coil, allthough most coils already have a fuse.
Look in the manual at page 15 & 16.
All fuses are mentioned....

#3018 4 months ago
Quoted from jugood20:

While I was playing a game this evening on my Bad Girls, the left up kicker stopped firing the coil. The switch recognizes the ball, but is not kicking the ball out. I checked the fuse (F13) but it appears the fuse looks fine ( the F13 fuse also is tied to the right kicker which is working as it should. Anyone have any ideas? Photos attached. Thanks !

Do you have voltage at the coil?
Did you check the connector?

#3022 3 months ago

Today I've updated my website with Tech Charts for the Gottlieb System-1 games.
All 16 games are added to the Tech Chart section as well as in the Gottlieb section.
If you find any errors, please let me know and I'll correct them.

Enjoy and have fun,
If you like my work, please send me a donation via PayPal.

Tech Charts added for:
Gottlieb Asteroid Annie and the Aliens
Gottlieb Buck Rogers
Gottlieb Charlie's Angels
Gottlieb Cleopatra
Gottlieb Close Encounters of the Third Kind
Gottlieb Count-Down
Gottlieb Dragon
Gottlieb Genie
Gottlieb Joker Poker
Gottlieb Pinball Pool
Gottlieb Roller Disco
Gottlieb Sinbad
Gottlieb Solar Ride
Gottlieb The Incredible Hulk
Gottlieb Torch
Gottlieb Totem

2 weeks later
#3057 3 months ago
Quoted from sixtyfourbits:

I found these switches on my system 80A sound board, and am not sure how they should be set. Should they both be pressed towards 1 & 2, should they be pressed towards open, should only one be open, or ?
I currently have no sounds or music so that’s why I’m asking if the switches are correct.

If you are unsure wheather they are on or off, check them with a DMM.
Here are the settings for the switches...
Gottlieb_sound (resized).jpg

I also found this setting for older sound boards....

Gottlieb_sound_80 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#3080 82 days ago
Quoted from kba78:

Hi all,
Just wondering if any of you Monte Carlo owners could help me out. Working on one with the two 67 flashers on the sides of the roulette wheel are lock on. For some reason I am having a terrible time deciphering the manual and can't figure out which transistor controls them. They have the main driver board and two aux driver boards. If someone could point me in the right direction, I would appreciate it

I assume you mean lamp #17.
These lamps are driven via an aux. transistor board.
I've posted an image from Diamond Lady, which has a 3 driver board, because the ipdb doesn't show them.
I assume the aux. driver board is mounted under the playfield.
Yours should have 4 transistors.
Q4 may be bad.


MC_playfield (resized).jpgDriverboard_schematic (resized).jpgDriverboard (resized).jpg
#3083 80 days ago
Quoted from dfrazer:

Expanding on Inkochnito's screenshot from the Monte Carlo Manual....
[quoted image]
.....does that map over to the following.....
[quoted image]
If so, are we referring to the Auxiliary Lamp Driver Board (A11)? I believe that this is the board that is located under the playfield to the right of the Resistor Board (A13) that contains the 4 resistors that are used for the 4 pairs of #67 Lamps:
[quoted image]
Am I correct in my assumptions?

Nope, incorrect aux. lamp driver board.
Those are used for the running lights around the 10 million sign.

1 week later
#3109 68 days ago

Check the switch matrix and if there are more switches missing.
A1J7 looks fine.

1 week later
#3129 57 days ago
Quoted from Jakers:

My Monte Carlo has been working fine and all of the sudden there are 4 switches that won’t register. The left lock saucer, left ramp made switch, middle left top lane and the right inlane target switch that opens the right gate. Any ideas where to start troubleshooting this?

Check the connector pins.
Old and metal fatigue will break them.
Not to mention the battery residue is a killer too.

#3131 55 days ago
Quoted from Jakers:

The 4 switches problem ended up being a broken wire under the playfield on one of the diode boards. Also found and fixed my random reset problem by flowing solder on the daughter board pins.
The only problem I can see now is my “5” insert light is constantly on in attract mode. Would that be a diode issue and where is that diode located?

Check Q39 on the driver board.
It's a MPS-A13 transistor.

1 month later
#3157 16 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Anyone with a good system 80 board for sale? I have a game to bring back to life. Current board has damage over a wide area and I'm not sure worth investing my time.

A bit expansive, but the PI80 might be an option.

Another option is a Rottendog board:

Or Ni-Wumpf....

#3166 12 days ago

Did you replace the flipper button switches and the EOS switches?
Check the Q relay for good contact.
Did you do the ground update/upgrade at the transformer?

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