Alien Star
Gottlieb, 1984
Arena
Gottlieb, 1987
Asteroid Annie and the Aliens
Gottlieb, 1980
Bad Girls
Gottlieb, 1988
Big House
Gottlieb, 1989
Black Hole
Gottlieb, 1981
Bone Busters Inc.
Gottlieb, 1989
Bounty Hunter
Gottlieb, 1985You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider insane.
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Guys, i am having a real problem with my Joker Poker, if anyone can offer any help it is greatly appreciated. i am pulling out what is left of my hair. 
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/joker-poker-problems
Thanks for any and all help..
I can't really comment one over the other, as I have not used the Pascal board. But I have used the Niwumph, and Ace at Niwumph went above and beyond with any issues I had, outstanding customer service (and I wasn't the original purchaser). I have had no issues with it since.
When i did the ones in my BH, i just bought an extraction tool and pins. I don't have the numbers of the parts i bought where i am right now. I did all the ones in the back box. Other than that you need a little wire to add a wire on the interconnect cable(ground mod) and some decent wire cutters and strippers.
Quoted from Jappie:Woops... I now have 2 Haunted Houses... this second one fell into my lap as the icing on the cake in a great package deal. This one has a very nice playfield and a fixable backglass.
my second!
Both my HH's are projects. I will probably fix and clearcoat them side by side. I'm thinking about keeping one original and customizing the other to speech and multiball, using Pascal's PI-80 X1.
All in good times though. Got other projects that will come first. I'm a lucky man.
you lucky sob....congrats
Joker Poker Question. What decal should be on the coin door. Marco's website shows the red/white/blue with the columbia pictures byline and sunburst. But the ones i've see online have the black and white globe with the red script D. Gottlieb & Co.
Quoted from blownfuse:The black line globe stickers were on the later EM's with the large smooth coin door. When the games were made in EM and System 1, they got the correlating sticker on the door. I don't believe there were any transition games with either, Gottlieb was a stickler for details so I doubt it.
The red, white and blue Columbia stickers started on System 1 games. (My System 80 Hulk has System 80 sticker on it for example)
The red, white and blue flag style stickers started on early System 80 games and stopped when Gottlieb changed to a single game ROM.
The silver, black with gold star stickers continued on through to System 3. It's interesting to note that Gottlieb didn't change the stickers again when they went to 7 digit. Maybe they just dropped the idea of changing the sticker each time they changed something in the line. This is speculation on my part but it does kinda make sense.
Keep in mind that some coin doors have been replaced with better ones through the years by collectors or route operators and the stickers were never replaced with correct ones.
Steve
So since Joker Poker was both EM and System 1, it should have the Black line Globe.
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:This is how it started out.
Vlad likes to help too
Look at the Puppy, puppy. Good doggie. Looks great.
Quoted from BorgDog:I didn't mention it but my Joker Poker has Rottendog power and driver boards with the ni-wumpf so they are definitely compatible.
My Joker Poker also has a Rottendog PS. I also have a niwumph driver board ad CPU. I have heard that there can sometimes be issues between a RD Driver and a NiWumph CPU Board.
I also have emailed with Ace, and have found him to be very helpful. Also I think he told me, or I read, that the niwumph boards don't like the interconnect cable that have diodes installed. Don't know if yours does. just something I remember.
Quoted from BCpinhead:HI, not a club member yet, but I hope to this weekend with a Genie. I've never seen this era of Gottlieb machine so I'm not at all familiar with them particularly for transport. I'm wondering if the head comes off these sys 1 machines or do they at least fold down? It is full on winter here so it has to get covered up into the back of my pickup. I know it will be a heavy little piece of kit so will bring an assistant with strong back. Any tips would be appreciated. Does the backglass lift out too?
Thanks!
Not sure on Genie, but on my Joker Poker, I unhook the wires, and unbolt the head. I usually leave the BG in the head, and strap it in the seat. But the BG can be removed.
Quoted from BorgDog:Got the new kids (Cleo and Solar) all setup and everything working right yesterday. Here's a pic of the current system 1 lineup, 1/4th of the way to having them all LOL. They all have different board setups, PP with Pascal's all-in-one, Cleo all original boards, Solar Pascal MPU original power and driver boards, and Joker with Ni-wumpf and rottendog power and driver, a little bit of everything. Looking for a nice Cleo backglass if anyone knows where one is, while I kind of think the seriously cracked look is kind of cool it is going to bug me over time.
What kind of luck have you had on the JP using a Niwumph MPU and Rottendog driver board? I had no luck that way, and Ace at Niwumph said it wouldn't work.
Quoted from ForceFlow:Most wires are 18-20 gauge, so use the connector pins that match that. 22-26 is going to be too small.
Trifuricon pins are only used with header pins (like on the power supplies), but not on edge connectors.
Bifrucated pins are only used on the system 80 interconnect harness between the mpu and driver board, but are no longer available from anyone.
Standard .156 edge connector pins are the ones you will probably use the most, followed by the Trifuricon pins.
Big Daddy still shows the 03-03-0304 on his website as available.
Quick question, I recently got my Joker Poker up and running again. I have replaced every diode in the game (as was advised by Ace at Niwumph to hopefully fix a problem with repeatedly blowing one of the mosfets). now when I play, the 100's chime coil seems to "bounce" If you are playing, you hear the chimes hit, then you can feel it continue to bounce. I don't know if it has always done that, or if it supposed to be still chiming and isn't hitting the chime plate after the first hit. I double checked I have the diode installed correctly. I will try to remove the chime assembly and examine closer this weekend, just thought I'd see if anyone had any ideas first.
Found some other issues, please check out my thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/joker-poker-issues#post-3667844
Quoted from CactusJack:typical reaction (for scoring 5 pulses) when the plunger is a bit gummed up. Plunger never gets low enough to go back up so it kind of oscillates in the middle until the 5th pulse and then it settles down. Usually works okay for single score events.
Also keep In mind there was one set of Rockwell chips that were a little faster for bonus collect since once they went to electronic sounds, they could send sounds faster.
Thanks for the info, I'm going to pull the assembly this weekend to clean and inspect. I am having some scoring issues, please see my thread referenced above if you have any advice.
Quoted from Insane:Thanks for the info, I'm going to pull the assembly this weekend to clean and inspect. I am having some scoring issues, please see my thread referenced above if you have any advice.
So I pulled and cleaned the assembly, coil sleeves looked good, so I just cleaned them. I replaced the rubber pad on the bottom with some weatherstripping. All seem to work well, now I am having the same problem again. Maybe I just need to replace the coil sleeves? Any other suggestions?
Having issues with my Joker Poker again. If anyone has any ideas...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/joker-poker-issues#post-3703535
I swear I think its haunted...
Quoted from Pinballerchef:This thread seems to be more active than the Robowar I posted this on....anybody buy and install the ANYpin NVRAM on there Robowar? I don't know where it goes in the board....also would it be the 5101 set up for it??
Get with Rob Anthony (Borygard) He can direct you to the correct one and location. here is his website. http://www.lockwhenlit.com/products.htm
He also posts frequently. https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/borygard
Quoted from Yesh23:I have a Pinball Pool that the scoring seems whack and I'm thinking it's stemming from the MPU (see picture, has acid damage). I have a replacement board but how can I tell if the MPU will work with Pinball Pool? I'm very new to Gottlieb and know Williams. I know Williams used a universal board and you could switch out ROMS. I don't see a spot on this board to switch out ROMS, advice
I could be mistaken, but top left, you have a chip marked "F" on the board not in the machine, and one marked "I" on the one in the machine. You also have a sticker above the board that says Pinball Pool uses PROM I. I think that is the chip you need to swap.
Quoted from djreddog:All,
I'm trying to disable or turn off any extra balls. Per the Gottlieb manual, dipswitch 11 set to ON should reward replay instead of extra ball. I think that's partially true and that there is another setting I'm missing. Prior to any changes, my #11 switch was set to off, and when I scored high enough to award a credit it would instead award an extra ball. Also, when lighting the top right rollover and collecting the "special" it would reward an extra ball. Earlier tonight I moved switch #11 to the ON position. Now when I get a high score, the knocker hits and it awards a special. However, I cannot figure out how to disable the extra balls that light on the playfield. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks!
DIP 1-8=off (one coin, one credit).
DIP 9=on (three balls per game).
DIP 10=on (match feature on).
DIP 11=on (replay instead of extra ball).
DIP 12=on (tilt kills current ball only).
DIP 13=on (show number of credits).
DIP 14=on (play a tune when game started).
DIP 17,18=on (maximum credits 15).
DIP 20=on (chimes/tones when scoring).
DIP 21=on (show high score to date).
DIP 22=on (award 3 credits when high score beat).
DIP 23=on (play a tune when money inserted).
Might help if you say what game.
Quoted from Midniterider:AWESOME!
Thank you for clearing up that question for me.
With that in mind, could it be a defective Ni-Wumph driver board. I did see two (2) openings on the A3-J3 harness that show “spare” grounds. If I were to install pins and run that directly to ground plate, I am wondering if that would help the problem.
You can also contact Ace at Ni-Wumph, he has been very helpful to me in the past.
Quoted from Midniterider:Is there an email for Ace or should I go to Ni-Wumph website?
I went through the site.
Quoted from Zorak:So is the jury returned on if you can run a NiWumpf CPU with Rottendog driver board in a System 1? I'm not finding a definitive answer & I've got a Sinbad with that setup that won't kick from the outhole despite a good solid 25v at the coil and good continuity from the driverboard to ground side. Not sure how to tab test a rottendog driver transistor in game with it running so I can't be 100% certain yet but wanted to see if I 'm chasing my tail with the NiWumpf in there anyway like it might not be communicating right with the driver board? Read something about lights not firing but wasn't sure if it could cause a coil issue too. It's an early NiWumpf too, a revision M with a 3 digit SR#. Thanks in advance to anyone who can shed some light on this for me.
Ace at NiWumph told me no. When I tried in my Joker Poker, I had issues. There is something incompatible between the 2 per Ace. He might have told me what, but I don't remember. Reach out to him, he is great.
Quoted from Agent_Hero:Screws or foil?! Sounds like the chart is needed.
[quoted image]
THIS, made me laugh....thanks
Quoted from vaevictis:Helping a buddy out with his project Gold Wings. First SS Gottlieb I've dealt with, displays are out/missing. Pinball Resource says they're out of stock. What recourse do I have, eBay or want ad? TIA.
Quoted from aobrien5:It has not been /completely/ repinned. I've been thinking I need the replacement with the inline diodes. Would that help here?
Thanks, I'll get in touch with him for more details.
Get with Ace before you get the one with the Diodes, for some reason I think he told me NOT to get that one, but I could be mis-remembering.
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:On the fuse issue. The nearest I can tell, there is a 8 amp fuse that is connected to the ground of both the 24v line and the 34v line. Hopefully this will be enough.
On another subject... Has anyone ever adapted a pop-bumper driver board to run a kicker on a System 80 machine?
On my Black Hole, the leaf switches on my kickers are pretty badly pitted and bent up. They will no longer trigger the kicker coils. Replacements are available, but I am not real comfortable having coil voltage sticking up into the playfield. From the wiring diagram, it looks like I could use simple stand up switch, or williams style kicker stand up switches in place of the high amperage kicker switches. They would have to be wired to close to ground, and connected to pin 4 of the pop-bumper board. The rest of the wiring would be pretty much the same as a pop-bumper.
Unless I am overlooking something, this seems pretty doable.
I believe on Pinrepair, Clay suggested this, but I could be remembering incorrectly.
Quoted from Andreas:On my joker poker one of the aces and one of the kings givs lot of points and then resets the droptargets even though all are not down. It gives 2010 points when dropping and then ends up on 7010 when resetting that bank. No diffrent with groundmods done. Its the far right acetarget and the king furthest down. What chip on the mpu should I look into and meassure? Really odd
Cheers
I would look at the switches on the drops. are they making good connection, I had one that wasn't tight enough, so as I flipped, it would "bounce" and continue to give out points. are they too tight, so the game thinks they are already down?
Quoted from Alan_L:A friend has a solid state Joker Poker with a fairly new Ni-Wumpf MPU and Rottendog driver and power supply boards. The cpu does not fully boot at power up and the displays are out. But when turning off the machine the displays come on for about two seconds and go out. Don't know if ground mods have been done or any connector re-pinning, but what could cause this and where do you guys think I should start looking?
Thanks,
Alan
I was told that the Niwumph mpu doesn't always play well with the rottendog driver board. I would check with Ace at Niwumph. he has always been super helpful when I have had issues.
OK, hopefully someone can help.
Joker Poker, tilt not working.
Pendulum that is.
According to the schematics it should be (please correct me if i am wrong)
Tilt switch, which is part of the roll tilt switch, looks like it should be the bottom most connection
Pur-wht to A6J1-6 ----A6P1-6 Pur-wht -- IN270 diode Pur --A1J6-7
Mine is
Tilt switch Wht-Blu---A6J1-6---A6P1-6 Pur-Wht then it appears to goto the playfield tilt switch.
i have no wire at A1J6-7, it has been rewired, but i have no purple there, and it doesn't appear that the wire loom has been molested at any time. just the A1J6 connector and about 5 inches of wire.
There are only 4 diodes on the bottom panel, i would believe that there should be 5 per the manual and schematics.
Any and all help is appreciated. Can anyone with Joker Poker see if what i am seeing is what they have?
Quoted from BorgDog:Here is a couple pics of mine. Hope it helps. and yes that is only 4 diodes on that board if that's the one you are referring to.[quoted image][quoted image]
Ok, looks just like mine, do you have a wire at A1J6-7? Also does your tilt work?
Sorry, for the delay, here is what i have. My Joker Poker manual looks exactly like what BorgDog posted above. As i said th wires going to A1-J6 up to the connector look original, ,except the connector and red wires. The last pic is the wires going there. No Purple, or pur wht, etc. i do have a solid purple at A1j7-6.
Any suggestinos are appreciated. i checked for continuity between the pendulem wire (wht-blu) and the playfield Tilt, and have continuity.
IMG_20200509_105125731 (resized).jpgIMG_20200509_105133699 (1) (resized).jpgIMG_20200509_105140878 (resized).jpgIMG_20200509_105247002 (resized).jpgIMG_20200509_105321604 (resized).jpgOk, so as you can see in the above, i have 7 wires at A1J6, the manual says i should have 8. I have looked at that wire loom all the way back to the bottom panel, and have 7 wires there as well. so can anyone verify that the manual is correct, and if so, where does the A1J6-7 wire come from. I also went into switch test, and the pendulum tilt, doesn't register at all. Even jumping the wires together to take out the possibility of bad connection between the lead plumb, and the brass ring.
Ok, so after doing some more checking, the playfield tilt goes through an IN270 diode that appears to be bad, checked with my meter on Diode setting. None of the usual suspects seem to have that diode, is there a possible substitution? I have some other diodes in my stock, perhaps one might work. All help is appreciated.
Quoted from JethroP:Have a System 1 game, TOTEM, with Ni-Wumpf MPU and original driver board and PS. Game is shopped and plays great except for the tilt bob functionality. The bob is new and all metal contacting parts are clean. It takes repeatedly HARD hits to tilt the game. Normal bumps of the bob into the brass ring do not tilt the game. I've read this problem on other postings and other websites, and it seems to pertain only to System 1 games running the Ni-Wumpf. I have the original version Ni-Wumpf, and they deny there is any issue with their board. Interesting however, the Version II board has settings for tilt that my version doesn't have.
Anyway, has anyone here ever dealt with this tilt bob problem, and any solution out there?
I have an issue on my Joker Poker. Tilt bob doesnt work. i have found that the wiring in my machine doesn't match the manual, but also looks original. I have also now found a blown diode for the playfield tilt that seems to have the tilt bob running through it as well. i have a new diode, just haven't installed yet.
look at post 3584 and 3635 in this thread.
Quoted from northvibe:I'm going off random memories, didn't they run a few tilt/slam switches off eachother? I know many disable the slam switches to stop any random slam/tilts.
i'm not sure. i just know that the manual says the tilt should go to the main board via A1J6-7, and i have no wire there. If you look at the post 3628 and from there, it appears from the people who chimed in, that the manual is wrong. This weekend i hope to install the new diode and see if that is the problem.
Quoted from ExitWound:Hey all. I have a question regarding the availability and difference of the motors used by Gottlieb in this era.
I'm looking for the one that's used on Bone Busters in the topper mechanism. Here's a picture from an old listing here on Pinside: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/complete-bone-busters-topper Here's the link on Marco: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/26589?fbclid=IwAR0Ec-kpIWjU3QgHKbssPJoO54yZKwur5JyPGk6drRdnvoZeC41ZljLxLDY (out of stock obviously.)
My question is - from what I've seen looking through schematics and marketplaces, Gottlieb manufactured a BUNCH of different motors for games from this era on this system. And finding the specific motor listed above being what it is, what is the ultimate difference between the motors themselves? Would there be any others that are similar enough to mount (even violating the factory design by designing my own) that would work? It seems really odd that they'd actually develop a motor just for Bone Busters, a game that potentially was limited in release and popularity just from the theme alone.
Or if you have one - let me know!
By no means any kind of expert, i would think if you can find a motor that is the correct voltage and rpm, probably also torque to some extent, you could probably make some kind of mounting bracket. it just needs to turn the arm so you get the back and forth motion.
Help. On my Joker Poker. Been working fine, now the 10-J drops wont reset, they try, but don't come all the way up. if i lift the PF, so the coil is horizontal, they will reset. Coil resistance reads fine, as does the diode. i had this problem before, but don't remember what the fix was. hopefully someone can help.
Quoted from radial_head:Weak springs would cause the opposite problem, no?
I would change your coils sleeves and rebuild the cross bar reset mech. Been a bit since I’ve had to mess with any of my gottlieb drops though so I could be wrong.
i pulled the sleeve out and cleaned it, all seems to be fine. Nothing seems out of the ordinary. i will replace the sleeve, i just didn't have any with me.
Also in case you don't know the 10-Jack drops are on the same single reset coil. It is 3 total drop targets.
So as i said, nothing changed, we were playing. All was fine. i raised the pf to change a diode on the diode strip at the bottom of the pf, for the tilt circuit. Put the pf back down, and noticed the drops were staying down. Went into the test menu, and checked the coils, it tries to come up, but only comes up maybe 1/2", when i raise the pf to vertical, then that coil is horizontal, it raises them all the way. The mech seems smooth, i checked the resistance on the coil, it reads around 9.0 which according to pinwiki, is correct, i also compared to another of the same coil, and got the same readings. I checked the coil diode, it also reads as good.
While i was checking, i pulled the coil sleeve, and ran a paper towel through it, and wiped down the plunger. i haven't made any changes to the mech, changed any springs or anything.
Quoted from pb456:There's no guarantee of the diode coil being good if it's mounted on the coil - which in itself of course is a great big loop. Did you cut the diode and test?
yes, removed 1 leg from coil before testing.
So today, i swapped the coil and diode between the 10-J drops, and the queens drops. the problem stayed at the 10-J, so must be something in the mech, or the plunger. Like i said, nothing changed, i didn't do anything to the mechs. 1 game they were working, and the next game they weren't. unless it isn's getting the correct power for some reason?
Quoted from pb456:I don't have a schematic to that game, but I'm wondering if there's something up with that particular 10-J coil's circuit or perhaps the connector? I'd test the diode(s), transistor(s) and resistors to it. Should be on the solenoid/driver board...?
i am running a NiWumph driver and cpu board. But i will test all appropriate devices.
Quoted from pb456:...also just saw this, old bulletin on the Niwumpf site...
---
Mar 17, 2019 - It has happened again - Ni-Wumpf has been challenged in our supply chain. Over the weekend, we identified a bad batch of transistors (MOSFETs) in our latest production run of System 1 driver boards. As before, this has come despite vendor testing of the component and the manufacturer: ON semiconductors. Driver boards shipped since the October 2018 are potentially part of this recall. As you will note in the enclosed picture these ON components have a date code of 1J18AA or 1J18AB. Not all driver boards shipped since then utilize these bad components, please validate this date code before acting. If you examine the board, you might also see that there are one or two Fairchild MOSFETs on the board in the QS5 through QS8 component locations... a manufacturer that we have blackballed from purchasing ever again. As it turns out, ON bought Fairchild, and clearly that specific plant is continuing down the path of poor production quality wherever these came from. Unfortunately, Ni-Wumpf did not realize this acquisition in time. Other ON MOSFETs components of the same designation; FQP13N10, used in our System 80 driver boards are working fine, and there are other System 1 driver boards that are fine as well, it appears to be just this date code run. If you notice that the board does not energize the coil strongly enough to have the target banks reset, this is the symptom of this issue. Please contact us, and arrange to have the boards returned for warranty service. Our apologies for this inconvenience.
My boards are older than that. Also, the coil is trying to energize, it just doesn't have enough oomph to get it done. I went back through my notes and had a similar problem before, but not exactly the same. I have reached out to NiWumph, as they have been super helpful in the past. I am also trying to trace and check components.
Quoted from tait316:So I finished my restore of Holly Wood Heat. Painted the legs, rails, outside of the coin door. Oh and I made a new translite. If enough people would like it I can get more printed. ^_^
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice, i like the translight.
Quoted from Silverballbrain:Great advice! Will look into PBResource. Any recommendations on how to properly use a DMM. I was told earlier to check for 60v but still confused where and how. Believe it is for Gen. Illumination (GI) so feel it should be done while turned off.
Any suggestions? Thanks
you might want to google using a DMM. they are pretty simple. if you are trying to check for proper voltage, it will have to be turned on. but you want to make sure you check in the proper location. someone will probably chime in as to where that is.
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