I would like to join.
Have owned some of each generation of this era Gottlieb.
Currently restoring a Volcano.
Others I have had:
Time Line ( Black and blue)
Would like to get a Hulk one day.
I am working on a volcano.
The uncontrolled solenoids(38v) are too strong. I have measured 38.v at bridge and at coils. The slings shoot at each other and flatten the switch in the opposite one. I am bending the wire forms with the flippers. All balls of the pops are air balls.
The capacitor in the bridge circuit does what? Is it there to store enough power to give coils extra push. At 4000 mfd it cannot be there to simply level off voltage.
I have added double rubbers to slow the ball down.
Is the cap necessary?
Quoted from Biffbar:
Which, if any, System 80 games came from the factory with doubled up rubber rings,
I added double rings on my Volcano because the slings and the upper flipper are so strong the wire forms and sling shot switches get bent over backwards due to impact.
I then had to shorten the double rubber posts to keep the kicker from hanging up on the upper rubber.
Wire forms and switches are surviving better.
Does anyone know where on the sound board for Volcano the background lava sound that runs constantly is produced ?
I have new connectors and all the ground mods are done.
I was playing last night and all of the voice and target sounds work but the constant volcano/lava sound in the background got intermittent and finally disappeard.
Quoted from ForceFlow:
Are the correct coils installed? Are the voltages correct?
The uncontrolled coils on the pops, slings and kickers are 38volts DC. I had asked a couple of weeks ago about this. I am at 38.2 vdc. The coils look original but I will cross the part numbers with the manual.
I went through this a long time ago and had a posting that listed some of the valid replacements. Some of the IC's can be replaced with the low power LS or HCT parts but some could not. On this board - 74F parts would be overkill and are big power hogs.
Easiest one -- 7448 can be replaced with 74LS48 ... both of which are obsolete.
Z1 original 4528, no alternate and obsolete.
Z2 original 7474 but can easily use 74LS74 or 74HCT74.
Z3 cannot use a 74HC04 or 74HCT04, these have "high impedance inputs" and won't work properly in an oscillator circuit. Original is a 7404. You should be able to use a 74LS04 or 74F04 but I have not tried them, best bet would be 74LS04.
Z4 original 4081, no alternate but still an actively produced component.
Z7 Original 74LS04. Can use 74LS04 or 74HCT04
Z8 Original 7402. Can use 74LS02 or 74HCT02
Z9 Original 7400. Can use 74LS00 or 74HCT00
Z10 Original 74LS05. No alternate but still actively produced. Can Probably get by with a 74LS00 or 74HCT00 but I have not tried this. Changing to a 74LS00 or 74HCT00 will defeat ability to test board using QuickScan80 (which I am supposed to be working on Version 3 right now).
Z11 & Z12 Original 7404 in switch matrix & few other places. Only has to sink ~2mA so can probably be replaced with 74LS04 but might result in noisy switching.
Z13 & Z14 Original 7400. In switch matrix. Can probably replace with 74LS00. Don't think I would go to 74HCT00 here as this may also result in noisy switching.
Z16 original 7404 but can be replaced with 74LS04 or 74HCT04.
Z17, Z24 and Z26 original 7404. Digit Strobes. Should be able to get by with 74LS04.
Z18, Z20, Z22 original 74175. Can use 74LS175 or 74HCT175
Z15 original 7432. Can use 74LS32 or 74HCT32.
Z27 original 7404. Can use 74LS04 or 74HCT04
Z28 original 74LS139. Can use 74HCT139
Z29 and Z30 original 7416. Can use 7416 or 7406.
Z31 original 7408. Should be able to go 74LS08. 74HCT08 would work but not a good board to board driver.
Z32 original 7417. Can use 7417 or 7407.
Z33 original 74154. Can also use 74LS154 or 74HCT154 -- all of which are obsolete.
Z34 and Z35 original 7404. Can also use 74LS04. 74HCT04 would also work but not a good board to board driver.
On driver board:
All 74175s can be replaced with 74LS175 or 74HCT175.
Z13 original 7404 can be replaced with 74LS04. 74HCT04 would also work but not a good board to board driver
Ed from GPE just posted this in another thread. May already be in this one but here it is.
I had gold wings system b for many years and really liked it. I think it would be a good addition to a system b collection.
Is anyone looking for a Blue Time Line apron.
I had both at one time a Black Time and a Blue Time line.
They are gone but somehow this is still here....
I just played a fabulous game on my volcano. Rolled it over to 1.24 million. Sweet.
I tried to play another game and it will not play.
It has all of the function in attract mode.
The replay button, diagnostic button and coin mechs do nothing.
Reseated A1-J5 ( it already has new connector pins).
Reseated A7-J1 A7-P1.
Ground mods are all done.
It has played flawlessly nightly for months.
Rebooted it twice. No change.
Since all of the above switches have Return 7 in common should I be looking at Z11 on the mpu?
Quoted from Guru-420:
Sorry, but I had to tell SOMEONE that would appreciate the score.
I had a Gold Wings for almost 10 years.
It is a fun game.
I added a "night" switch so I could play it and turn off the siren when my family was sleeping.
The lights and the layout were awesome.
I liked the sounds but the music got to me sometimes.
I have owned my share of gottlieb ss machines.
One other that escapes me right now.
And one black time line and one blue time line.
Have you actually played time line?
I ask because I thought it was a huge playfield with little to shoot at.
Is the slam switch under the playfield set too close.
I also have a volcano. Its a fun game.
You must have an after market board. It will say tilt, tilt tilt but I do not think it will read anything in displays.
Are your connectors clean?
I had a niwumf or rottendog in circus that used to show whoa bubba in the displays when you tilted. My volcano has original mpu.
I think marco is a great resource.
I also deal with ed at gpe, also a reliable source for parts and advice.
I do not have the skills to test chips. I often can look at a drawing and figure out what I THINK is wrong. Then I purchase chips. I socket and install. If I get the same results I generally assume I have changed the wrong chip. So by this method , the board might become unrepairable because I cannot solve the problem .
Recent case on gottlieb volcano I was helped by others in the hobby and solved the problem . I was close but I changed the wrong side of of the circuit. I changed the strobe and not the return.
I second the memory cap from GPE.
I put one in volcano. Easy to install, cheap and works great.
Quoted from Matesamo:
any tricks to assembly to get it working 100%?
I had gold wings for about 10 years. It is an awesome game.
When I first got mine the loop was difficult to have the ball go as intended. It simply did not track well over the loop.
IIRC I felt that the pieces should touch each other but in the end found that the ball needed a slot to go around in and guide it. So, the individual pieces DID NOT touch each other. From there it was subtle adjustments on the anchor screws.
There is a lot of trial and error.
In the end it was a difficult shot to get. If you got it just right it went all the way around and out the gate.
I upped the coil strength to make it more attainable.
It was working well prior to the stronger coil but was a difficult shot. We enjoyed it more being able to make the shot.
Quoted from desertT1:
Did yours clear up after you replaced Z14?
I actually replaced 2 chips IIRC.
I had the issue on Volcano which is an 80A.
If you are working on circus that is a system 80. Not sure if it makes a difference.
Also, are using the factory MPU?
I think I also changed out z11 which was the return for that switch matrix in Volcano. ( 80A ). I am not at home and cannot review my notes.
The Z11 chip made no difference at all but the Z14 7400 fixed the test buttons, coin slot sws and the other things in that line that did not work.
I asked where you got the chip because occasionally you can get a Chinese counterfeit that is NG.
Quoted from StratDoc:
I have a Volcano that was working fine and then lost its sound
I also have a Volcano with all original boards.
On the original sound board the dip switches control what sounds are active.
Are there dips on the Swemmer?
Did you make sure they are fully engaged ( meaning fully at end of stroke)?
Excellent. His grounds are simple and the pictures make it pretty easy.
He is a great guy too.
He has hard to find parts when no one else has them.
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:
A question for you guys..
Cannot answer if system 80's had clear lacquer on them or not. I have always believed they did.
I have had 4 system 80s, an 80A and an 80B.
I clear coated a Volcano ( 80A) with 2K 2PAC and it looks fabulous.Look for it in the Volcano club thread.
I clear coated a Circus with Varethane and it looked fabulous.
They both were very colorful games and stood up well. I still have the Volcano.
Quoted from mrm_4:
When I turn on the game it immediately locks on the flashers and siren and won’t boot
You did the ground mods correct?
You also have to ground and reflow the ground headers on the left side of the bottom board.
There are either 2 or 4 of them. I eventually removed them and installed a terminal strip with a copper jumper to each ground to make sure my Gold Wings would behave,
Since the loop to loop digs into that sticker in the back, I made a piece of wood to span the cabinet with felt on both sides and put a sign inside the machine reminding me to use it.
You can buy that sticker from steve young for like $6.
I had a party last night and 4 score displays on volcano went out, then came back, then out. They would drop out from 15 to 30 minutes.
Only score displays go out. Credit display is still on.
Left it on for 1 hour today, and they are out again.
All ground mods are done and it has been repinned .
The 4 is likely the Credits in the machine.
You have the 60v and the 42v that is derived from it. The displays use this power to light up.
With machine powered up, gently wiggle the J1 and J2 connectors on the power supply. DO NOT UNPLUG THEM WHILE MACHINE IS PLUGGED IN.
If the displays show some life, remove the PS, unsolder the large transistor and inspect the headers and reflow as necessary.
This is how I confirmed the source of my issue.
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