(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)

By Gerry

10 years ago


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Post #5634 Gold Wings Settings page Posted by mbaumle (1 year ago)

Post #5771 Arena settings page Posted by BorgDog (1 year ago)

Post #5801 Robowar settings page Posted by BorgDog (1 year ago)


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#2988 4 years ago
Quoted from pinball419:

Does anyone have a Cleopatra schematics? Middle Lights on playfield are not working on my game. The middle column of Red, white, blue, yellow, green lights. Left and Right columns work, and the feature is working, the lights are not. I replaced bulbs, my guess is that the black with white tracer is the issue.

Are you still looking for this? I have a hard copy of the SS Schematics I can try to help if needed.

1 year later
#4421 3 years ago
Quoted from RDBowers:

I am looking to replace battery packs on my System 1 machines (Cleopatra, Sinbad and Count-Down) with memory capacitors.
I see lots of posts about using 1F and 1.5F, 5.5V capacitors going back several years. As I understand it the capacitance (1 or 1.5F) is a measure related to charge of a capacitor. Therefore a capacitor with a higher capacitance rating would keep the memory circuit charged longer. As an example 2F capacitor will hold twice the charge of a 1F capacitor and keep the memory circuit charged for twice as long. Is that correct?
I am considering using a 2.2F capacitor (https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/kemet/FG0H225ZF/4290880) so it will keep the memory longer. Any comments or suggestions?

I know the 1f caps can go for some time before losing charge on a sys1.. I have not tested it, but at least a few weeks and I have never lost my settings.

I guess test and let us know.. it seems sensible with regard to the leakage rate and so forth.

2 years later
#6239 7 months ago

Anyone here have a Totem with a Ni-Wumpf rev D MPU board?

I'm chasing down a bit of an odd issue where the outlane is causing the subsequent ball to advance the bonus and disables the outlane switch from doing anything.

Seems to be related to the ball hitting the outlane switch, and then draining before the bonus has completed countdown.

Otherwise everything plays fine... quite frustrating.

#6241 7 months ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Shouldn't the bonus wait to count until the ball is in the out hole? Not by merely hitting an outlane switch. I'm not familiar with Totem.

Sorry, yes I didn't describe it properly. It's not counting the bonus down right away but seems to just need a extra second or so before draining.. Otherwise some bonus carries forward to the next ball.

#6243 7 months ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

So when it goes out the left outlane and screws up, it's the same on the next ball serve except now the *left* outlane switch becomes dead? (of course those two rollovers may just be wired in parallel and so they both go dead, I dunno.)
Are those two outlane switches the only ones that are going dead when this happens?
When it screws up, is it actually adding all of the bonuses to the total score?

Yes both Outlanes behave the same. And neither will register.

It takes the bonus to '4' on the subsequent ball every time it happens.

If I hold the ball for a second before the drain, it works fine. This is the only issue I have found, and when it happens it's just the Outlane switches that don't activate.

2 weeks later
#6279 7 months ago

Hey Sys1 people.. Any idea what might trigger the alternative sound sometimes happening in Totem? Quite rarely, there is this bass tune that plays. Listen close at 2:24 of this video:

It even happens in virtual pinball:

This sound is not derived from the typical three chime circuits.

Thank you-

#6286 7 months ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

I heard it three times on your game and every time it had just hit the left slingshot. Coincidence or ?

Good catch. That's just a 10pt switch which normally doesnt cause the sound... Maybe every nth 10pt switch tho would make sense to me is that what you mean? Thank you.

#6310 7 months ago
Quoted from Magadovski:

Hi i have made the ground mods on my genie.
How do i add extra ground the best way on the Soundboard?
/Carl[quoted image]

Taken from John Robertson (flippers.com)
---
>>>NEW<<< The System 1 Audio board uses a separate +5VDC regulator, and if it's bolts are loose there is the possibility of damage to the TTL circuits on that board. So tighten the bolts! In fact it would be best if you put star washers under both the bolt and nut to make a better ground connection between the case of the 5VDC regulator (LM309K) and the ground plane copper on the underside of the sound board. You might as well run a jumper from this ground to a good tie point along with all the others.
---

#6311 7 months ago
Quoted from Magadovski:

Hi i have made the ground mods on my genie.
How do i add extra ground the best way on the Soundboard?
/Carl[quoted image]

While you are at it, if the caps are original, I would recommend replacing them. I have come across a few Sys1 sound cards now where they were damaged from a leaking cap.

#6312 7 months ago
Quoted from slochar:

Since they were mimicking chimes it's likely when it causes the hundred to go it's activating both the ten and hundred input at the same time on the sound board which probably plays the other sound.

I love the logic in sys1s. I recall even the randomization being related to what you would get with a stepper unit, so in a way, a player can try to manipulate this, by observing the 'step'.

I managed to get the OE CPU board back in and confirmed that the 'different sound' plays on every 10th trigger:

There is a different sound when the 10s rollover, and when the 100s rollover.. no difference for 1k.

Going with your theory of combining the pulse on 10s and 100s, that gives 6 permutations to work with. Assuming the tilt and gameover would not be part of what the CPU board will drive.

Curious if anyone else has a newer Ni-Wumpf board they could test with, on a game like totem which seems to support this additional sound. I found that mine does not seem to have this sound effect on the carry over, but apparently it is an older revision of code.

Thank you-

3 months later
#6426 3 months ago
Quoted from iluvak9:

Pinball Pool - having an issue with one target not dropping target on the other side and trying to see if what I have experienced confirms it is a switch issue and not a solenoid issue. I've seen other postings regarding others having this corresponding target not dropping issue, but seeking advise more specific to my situation then the general responses I found regarding Pinball Pool target behavior. Since this is a common issue, I assume helping me will also provide further guidance for others who encounter this issue. Sorry about the length, but trying to provide all the info I gathered in diagnosing the situation.
On 3 ball settings, if I drop the 4 target manually it scores points for the 4 but does not drop the 12 (or score points for the 12). Similarly, dropping targets by causing any outside switch of a target bank to make contact leads to the both the target associated with the contacted switch and the opposing target to drop as they are supposed to and both targets score points as they should (inside bank target switches are all working right). The one exception again is when I when I cause the outside switch for the 4 target to make contact - nothing happens - neither the 4 target nor the 12 target drop (note that the inside switch for the 4 target works and it scores the points if I manually drop the 4 target, but manually dropping it just scores points for the 4 target drop and nothing happens to the 12 target).
So, my question is, does the fact that nothing happens when contact is made with the 4 target outside switch confirm that the issue is related to that 4 target outside switch in it either being a bad switch or one or more of the wires to the 4 target outside switch are cold soldered and need to be resoldered (I checked and there are no loose wires anywhere around the target bank)? Does this behavior provide enough evidence to confirm that the issue is not the solenoid for either the 4 or 12 target or does it not provide enough info to confirm whether or not the issue is with the switch rather than the solenoid?
I also tested each of the outside switches on the left bank including the 4 target outside switch using my multimeter set on diode. The switches all registered around .85 on my digital multimeter except for the outside switch associated with the 4 target which did not register at all. Does this also provide evidence that the issue has to do with the 4 target outside switch and not the solenoid for the 4 or 12 target? In addition, when I test the 12 target outside switch making contact leads to both the 12 target and 4 target dropping as they should. It seems like this would not happen if it was a solenoid issue with either the 4 or the 12, but I guess it is possible that there is possibly an issue with the wiring from the 4 target outside switch to a solenoid? Finally, I note that the 4 target outside switch has shared wires soldered to one contact coming from other switches in the bank and a purple wire soldered to another contact. I believe this ipurple one is the wire that is linked to the solenoid path, so is it possible I need to check this purple wire path to the solenoid to see if that connection is the issue, so does this purple wire go to both the 4 target solenoid and the 12 target solenoid, just the 4 target solenoid or just the 12 target solenoid? In other words, I am seeking guidance as to the best next steps to take given the info above (e.g., should I resolder the wires to the 4 outside switch, replace the 4 outside switch, check the purple wire from the 4 outside switch which I assume either goes to the 4 solenoid or the 12 solenoid or something else). Thanks, in advance, for any help or guidance.

For pinball pool, IIRC, there is a switch on the back and front of each target one of which should engage momentarily to complete the circuit to the coil on the other side for for the synchronous drop. I would check these switches.

Please remember that 3 or 5 ball setting does not really affect this, there is a physical plug under the PF which will control the synchronous drop feature again IIRC anyway.. forgive me if I'm confused, I've been through a lot of pins.. lol.

GL!

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