(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)

By Gerry

7 years ago


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  • 4,609 posts
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  • Latest reply 52 minutes ago by Silverballbrain
  • Topic is favorited by 275 Pinsiders

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There are 4609 posts in this topic. You are on page 92 of 93.
#4551 58 days ago

Hi gang
Can anyone tell me, is it ok to plug a system 1/80 six digit display into my system 80A Rocky? Id be switching on my Rocky for the first time in years having had the boards repaired and I know for a fact that 6 digit display works. That way I can test the display outputs are actually working. Cheers

#4552 58 days ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Hi gang
Can anyone tell me, is it ok to plug a system 1/80 six digit display into my system 80A Rocky? Id be switching on my Rocky for the first time in years having had the boards repaired and I know for a fact that 6 digit display works. That way I can test the display outputs are actually working. Cheers

I have booted a 6 digit led display on an 80a board (7 digit) without issue. The only difference is your display will ignore the digit select for the 7th digit. I think you'll be fine

#4553 58 days ago

Any reason why nobody has ever made adhesive versions of the Gottlieb Pop Bumper Mylar (or has/does somebody?)

#4554 58 days ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

I have booted a 6 digit led display on an 80a board (7 digit) without issue. The only difference is your display will ignore the digit select for the 7th digit. I think you'll be fine

Awesome. Thanks very much mate

#4555 58 days ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

I have booted a 6 digit led display on an 80a board (7 digit) without issue. The only difference is your display will ignore the digit select for the 7th digit. I think you'll be fine

Oh!! I just threw mine in the bin assuming they were supposed to be stuck. Haha

#4556 58 days ago
Quoted from radial_head:

Any reason why nobody has ever made adhesive versions of the Gottlieb Pop Bumper Mylar (or has/does somebody?)

Williams used adhesive disks back in the day.

#4557 58 days ago
Quoted from John_In_WI:

Williams used adhesive disks back in the day.

They did, but they're larger than the Gottlieb games by 1/2" in diameter I think. Usually I try to cut them down using my ring cutter but apparently I suck really badly at doing this

#4558 58 days ago
Quoted from radial_head:They did, but they're larger than the Gottlieb games by 1/2" in diameter I think. Usually I try to cut them down using my ring cutter but apparently I suck really badly at doing this

You could always cut mylar sheets to any diameter on a vinyl cutter...like the Silhouette Cameo or similar machine.

#4559 57 days ago

I just came to the realization that between myself, Freeplay40 and Steve Young, I believe we now have every System 80B plastic ramp available except for one. And I am looking to get the missing Hot Shots ramp done sometime this year. What a time to be alive!

#4560 57 days ago
Quoted from JodyG:

I just came to the realization that between myself, Freeplay40 and Steve Young, I believe we now have every System 80B plastic ramp available except for one. And I am looking to get the missing Hot Shots ramp done sometime this year. What a time to be alive!

Count me in on this one

#4561 57 days ago

Apologies if this isn’t allowed; but I’ve got a Spirit & a Punk! for sale in the UK (listed on ebay uk - shipping worldwide);

if there’s any interest from here I could make a sale thread. Thanks

#4562 52 days ago

Help! I just finished bringing my Black Hole back from the dead, but I’m left with one nagging issue.

The game powers up into attract mode with no problem, but when I press the button to start a game it just restarts and goes back into attract mode. The reset happens right after resetting the 4-target (HOLE) bank and before resetting the 5-target (BLACK) bank. If I leave the game “warm-up” for 3-5 minutes it works fine.

I can also get it to work if I disconnect the ground wire to Solenoid 2 (the 5-target bank) at A3J4-10, or if I disconnect the sound/speech board.

All the self-tests run fine. I have re-pinned every board edge connector and the molex plug connecting the 5-target bank. I have replaced all the electrolytic caps on all the boards. Thinking I must have a flaky chip somewhere in the Solenoid 2 circuitry I started working my way back and ended up replacing every transistor and IC in the circuit back to and including the RIOT chip at U6. I also replaced the diodes on all four drop-target coils for good measure. I don’t have another sound/speech board to swap out to see if it’s the culprit.

The CPU did have some battery damage which I was able to repair with minimal component replacement and without losing any traces. Ground mods were also done.

Does anyone here have any ideas? I’ve searched Pinside and the rest of the web, but I can’t find any discussion of this issue. Thanks in advance.

(I have also cross-posted this on the Black Hole thread)

#4563 52 days ago
Quoted from Timmo:

Does anyone here have any ideas?

A couple of ideas:

I had a similar issue on my MarsGOW. Mine occurred when kicking the ball to the lane. I Rebuilt the PS.
When you have it apart, replace or reflow all of its headers.

Also... did you change out the large filter cap(s) on the bottom of the cab?

#4564 51 days ago
Quoted from REGNE:

I had a similar issue on my MarsGOW. Mine occurred when kicking the ball to the lane. I Rebuilt the PS.
When you have it apart, replace or reflow all of its headers.
Also... did you change out the large filter cap(s) on the bottom of the cab?

Thanks. Good suggestions.

I did replace the orange filter cap with the recommended 10,000uf 25v replacement. I also rebuilt the power supply using the recommenced modifications in Clay's guide (except I did not replace the trim pot or the regulator chip). J1, J2, and J3 were all upgraded to square pins and Trifurcon connectors.

I'm curious. Did your issue clear up on its own after the game was powered up for a while too? Maybe I need to take a second look at my power supply.

#4565 51 days ago
Quoted from Timmo:

Thanks. Good suggestions.
I did replace the orange filter cap with the recommended 10,000uf 25v replacement. I also rebuilt the power supply using the recommenced modifications in Clay's guide (except I did not replace the trim pot or the regulator chip). J1, J2, and J3 were all upgraded to square pins and Trifurcon connectors.
I'm curious. Did your issue clear up on its own after the game was powered up for a while too? Maybe I need to take a second look at my power supply.

My Haunted house had been running well for years. Started acting up due to power and in particular the trim pot. Installed a 10 turn precision one and it’s been stable ever since

#4566 51 days ago
Quoted from Timmo:

I'm curious. Did your issue clear up on its own after the game was powered up for a while too?

I want to say...yes? However, I didn't live with it long, prior to the PS rebuild. Sorry. I don't really remember.
If your MPU is resetting I think it's flaky 5V.

#4567 50 days ago
Quoted from REGNE:

If your MPU is resetting I think it's flaky 5V.

Thank you REGNE and Robotworkshop. I appreciate the input.

Ok, if I disconnect either the 5-bank or the 3-bank or the sound card everything starts up fine. With all three connected I can't start up until something somewhere warms up. Which I guess points back to my "rebuilt" power supply not being able to handle the draw when cold. All the voltage readings look solid, but I didn't replace the regulator chip. If I freeze this chip after the game warms up I can re-introduce the problem. So I'm going to order a new chip and I'll let you know how it goes.

#4568 49 days ago

Does anyone have a extra working micro/diagnostic switch for my Joker Poker for possible sale? Does anyone actually remake/fix these? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Switch (resized).jpg
#4569 49 days ago

Marco specialties sells them search for cherry switch.

#4570 49 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Marco specialties sells them search for cherry switch.

Thanks for the help

Cherry switch (resized).jpg
#4571 49 days ago

Wrong one though, you want the momentary contact one. I couldn't link from my tablet but here it is:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-2141

#4572 49 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Wrong one though, you want the momentary contact one. I couldn't link from my tablet but here it is:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-2141

Thanks again. Can you inform me of differences between the two? I read each description and would like to learn about what makes them different.
Any idea what pin the picture I posted goes to?

#4573 49 days ago

The one you pictured has a pull out 'on' circuit which wouldn't be correct for your game it would probably work though as it still has a momentary push.

The one I linked (and there looked to be another similar) is just a momentary push button.

This type of switch is (or used to be...) ridiculously common on not just pinball/video games, but in a LOT of other things. Subway turnstiles used them for instance, as well as all sorts of industrial stuff. If you look at other suppliers they will be cheaper (probably about $3) but I find it easiest to just get them from pinball suppliers I have 8-9 of them in my parts bins. They don't get a lot of use in pinball machines vs. their estimated lifespans (usually between 100k-1m activations) so they don't really wear out.

#4574 48 days ago

Hi All,

I have a SS Joker Poker that was working 100%, then out of the blue the Aces drop target bank resets immediately after 1 of the 5 targets is dropped. It should only reset once all 5 targets are dropped. I don't see any mechanical/switch issues, so I am expecting it is likely a transistor/diode type issue. Thoughts anyone?

#4575 48 days ago

nevermind...

#4576 46 days ago

I bought a PI-FX Sound Board that I don't need anymore. Works on 28 System 1, 80, and 80A games. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-flippp-pascal-pi-fx-gottlieb-sound-board

#4577 45 days ago
Quoted from Impzilla:

I did not know about this, I used them years ago without issues but it does sounds sketchy now.

alright, took a while and they were pretty quiet with their update but the postal order payment with text message for a quote worked! I received my connectors.

#4578 43 days ago

I thought I would try and see if anyone might shed some light on what’s going on here. I posted in MGoW thread here (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mars-god-of-war-club-n-tech-emporium/page/5#post-6229316) So I am working on a MGoW I have 2 of every board with an extra rotten dog mpu board. I did the sound checks with the sound card and everything checks out. I did the ground mods, repined almost everything and even made a new connector between the mpu and driver board. With one of the original board and the rotten dog I am getting all sounds with the exception of the last sound when the game is over. With the other stock mpu if you beat the high score you and you get the 3 credits it will play the ending sound. If you don’t there is nothing. I’ve been checking continuity with all of the sounds and everything seems fine. I don’t know what triggers the ending sound and what sound lines it uses. I also got the test rom and I have tested 1 board with everything except when I need the switch installed, the switch is coming tested fine. I just don’t understand how all of the other sounds are there and correct why this one there is nothing. Hoping for help.

10
#4579 42 days ago

Lots of 80B love on the bench today. Ran some Victory ramps in Red and Yellow. Ran Gold Wings for the first time in sky blue. Ran a bunch of blue Hollywood Heat ramps while I was at it.

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#4580 41 days ago
Quoted from Troyster42:

I thought I would try and see if anyone might shed some light on what’s going on here. I posted in MGoW thread here (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mars-god-of-war-club-n-tech-emporium/page/5#post-6229316) So I am working on a MGoW I have 2 of every board with an extra rotten dog mpu board. I did the sound checks with the sound card and everything checks out. I did the ground mods, repined almost everything and even made a new connector between the mpu and driver board. With one of the original board and the rotten dog I am getting all sounds with the exception of the last sound when the game is over. With the other stock mpu if you beat the high score you and you get the 3 credits it will play the ending sound. If you don’t there is nothing. I’ve been checking continuity with all of the sounds and everything seems fine. I don’t know what triggers the ending sound and what sound lines it uses. I also got the test rom and I have tested 1 board with everything except when I need the switch installed, the switch is coming tested fine. I just don’t understand how all of the other sounds are there and correct why this one there is nothing. Hoping for help.

I think this is going to need multiple people,pics and videos to solve. With that being said, you should start your own repair help topic so these others don't get cross-posted and cluttered.
-Mike

#4581 35 days ago

I would love to give Arena back in my collection.

1 week later
#4582 28 days ago
Quoted from Boat:

Hey guys, so another question.. for Panthera .. all 4 player score boards have the top “a” segment out. I looked into a bunch of referenced documentation and traced that back to the z19 chip. How likely would replacing the chip fix this? I reflowed the solder with no luck. Also, I’m having trouble finding out what chip I would replace it with. The manual didn’t seem to have specific chip info. Any tips or links?
Edit: ok so it’s a sn7448 chip. Just gotta find where to buy one

Just adding some closure on this. Replacing z19 and z21 resolved the issue.
I used the following replacement part: 74LS48

As suggested, I installed chip sockets for easy removal in the future

Customer was happy!

#4583 27 days ago

In need of an A1-J1 to A2-J2 harness cable for system 80 Black hole. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you

#4584 26 days ago

I have seen Todd's Tips #970 Fix your DIM gottlieb display.
He does this with a 6 digit display.. which is complete dim.

The thing is.. I have a MA644 display with 1 dim digit. Would this trick will work on this display?

Can anybody tell me what the both outer pins do on ye 6 digit display? Could this be 6.2 V ac ?

If anybody can give information about this old display on what tje pins are, maybe I can look tis up on the ma644 and try it.

I still have a good spare
display, so we can try..

FTN_Ferry

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#4585 26 days ago

I would check for cracked solder connections first and if you find some that may help if your reflow/resolder them.

#4586 24 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I would check for cracked solder connections first and if you find some that may help if your reflow/resolder them.

Good tip!
Will do that first..

#4587 22 days ago

i picked up a CIRCUS yesterday. I played it at the sellers house. I moved it to my house 1 mile away, I did take the head off. Now I have no fippers or pops. Anyone have an idea of what stupid thing I did or didnt do? I changed the solenoid fuse but it was good. The drop targets reset but no pops or flippers. Thanks for any help!

#4588 22 days ago

Sounds like either:
A12P/J8 is still unplugged
Your T/U/Q relays are a stuck/bent (unfamiliar with the circuit and which two are on the bottom right side near the flippers)
Your 38V+ bridge rectifier/associated filter cap is busted. I've found sometimes that just moving a game is enough to like, kind of doink up fragile areas like bad grounds/filter caps (or maybe I'm just making that up). Is the filter cap replaced?

#4589 22 days ago
Quoted from Pinstein:

i picked up a CIRCUS yesterday. I played it at the sellers house. I moved it to my house 1 mile away, I did take the head off. Now I have no fippers or pops. Anyone have an idea of what stupid thing I did or didnt do? I changed the solenoid fuse but it was good. The drop targets reset but no pops or flippers. Thanks for any help!

I bet plug too. If you unplugged stuff and now it’s not working after plugging back in, I’ve always found I’ve left something undone, unseated, bad connector/pin, backwards (like with a ribbon connector) or off a pin. The last two can be devastating, but the first three sound like something you should check out. If not unplugged or reseating it does not work, check the continuity of the connector. Best of luck.

#4590 22 days ago

Thanks guys. I will be digging at it tonight. Man I went through the harness twice but cant seem to find any missing uplugged connector. Hopefully 3rd times a charm.

#4591 19 days ago

More love for 80b folks this weekend. I have ramps for Spring Break on Orange now. Diamond Lady ramps in red. Special runs of Hollywood Heat in pink, and Gold Wings in blue. They can be purchased at www.rampomatic.com

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#4592 17 days ago

Just got done doing another system 80 interconnect and thought I'd share my pin tool. It's a jewelers drill handle. I only use 1 end. I use a .156 header pin and have it set to the correct length by sliding it into an empty position to the stop.
Finally I grabbed the pin with pliers and gave it a quarter twist to keep it from pushing back into the handle PXL_20210602_204611255 (resized).jpg

#4593 13 days ago

Hi everyone,

I'm going through and piecing together my MGOW I've been working on, and noticed that the coin door needs more work than I thought. The main problem is the slotted piece for the lock lever is broken off. I attached a picture of my non-broken HH door and the broken off MGOW one.

I assume if you take the door apart this might be replaceable, but I'm not sure. Even if it is, where would I find the part anyway? I'm guessing it would only be available from a parted out door.
PXL_20210606_180220758.MP (resized).jpgPXL_20210606_180229959 (resized).jpg

#4594 13 days ago
Quoted from vipe155:

Hi everyone,
I'm going through and piecing together my MGOW I've been working on, and noticed that the coin door needs more work than I thought. The main problem is the slotted piece for the lock lever is broken off. I attached a picture of my non-broken HH door and the broken off MGOW one.
I assume if you take the door apart this might be replaceable, but I'm not sure. Even if it is, where would I find the part anyway? I'm guessing it would only be available from a parted out door.
[quoted image][quoted image]

pinball resource would be the go to place for the part

#4595 13 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

pinball resource would be the go to place for the part

I looked before posting but didn't see anything like that. I suppose I could ask and see what kind of response I get.

Edit: I checked with them and PBR doesn't have this part.

#4596 13 days ago
Quoted from vipe155:

I looked before posting but didn't see anything like that. I suppose I could ask and see what kind of response I get.

Most of what they have isn't listed on their website.

#4597 11 days ago
Quoted from vipe155:

Edit: I checked with them and PBR doesn't have this part.

I would say you should just post a "wanted to buy" showing what you need someone on the site will have it.

1 week later
#4598 4 days ago

My HH sound board slowly dies during gameplay. Will work for a ball, maybe 2, then will go to just target sounds for a bit, then nothing.

I'd jump to recapping the board (does anybody sell a kit?) but is there something I might look towards instead? New PSU, MPU, and Driver Board a year ago.

#4599 4 days ago
Quoted from radial_head:

My HH sound board slowly dies during gameplay. Will work for a ball, maybe 2, then will go to just target sounds for a bit, then nothing.
I'd jump to recapping the board (does anybody sell a kit?) but is there something I might look towards instead? New PSU, MPU, and Driver Board a year ago.

I'd say caps first. Even bad connectors are more likely to just not work rather than fade out.
But when it does fade out check all the voltages you can in case it's a power issue.

#4600 4 days ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

I'd say caps first. Even bad connectors are more likely to just not work rather than fade out.
But when it does fade out check all the voltages you can in case it's a power issue.

Right. I'm thinking that before I got absolutely hog wild on doing all of them (the nitty gritty shitty ones) C38-C41 are probably the main culprits to replace and try first? From my understanding those act as like filter caps from the regulated voyages coming in from the edge connector? From there move onto caps above the PROMs and and riot chips?

Any logical reason to do them in steps vs just do the whole thing? I'm just trying to avoid having to go whole hog on ordering a bunch of caps that I likely don't have (or maybe I do...)

There are 4609 posts in this topic. You are on page 92 of 93.

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